Porthole Cruise and Travel, October 2023

Discover a New World of Cruising on board MSC World America.

A world of sustainable cruising on a ship designed for immersive and unique experiences at sea for guests of all ages and from all around the globe. Embark on a ship that is beautiful both inside and out, powered by cleaner fuel, and full of sophistication. You’ll discover new worlds of cultures, tastes and experiences when MSC World America starts cruising from Miami to the Caribbean in 2025.  Be one of the first to experience MSC World America, A New World of Cruising.

Now open for booking.

The magnifi cence of Alaska – the elegance of Cunard ®

The untamed wilderness is your playground when you sail with Cunard,® one of a select few cruise lines permitted into the pristine waters of Glacier Bay National Park. Spend time in historic ports such as Skagway, Juneau, Ketchikan, and Sitka. Learn from the locals on immersive excursions. Back on board, listen to expert perspectives from speakers in our award-winning Cunard Insights® program. Our enviable space-to-guest ratio and fine dining, enhanced by our signature White Star Service,TM ensure your voyage to Alaska is unforgettable.

Cool ‘n’ Around

I LIKE AUTUMN. It’s when the lazy summer kicks off the heat and everything starts perking up. Here in Florida, it means you can finally move without breaking a sweat. Up north, it’s harvest time. In the cruise world, it’s the best time to journey up to Canada and New England, where the leaves have shaken off their summer duds and woken up into vibrant colors.

In fact, I’ve been thinking about this issue as our “orange and green” issue. We’ve got an autumn fashion selection in our Shop Around section (p. 22) and plenty of delicious, goldenbrown baked goods in our Canadian cuisine sample platter in Wine & Dine (p. 18). Contrast those colors with the brilliant green of another Canadian port, the forward-thinking, sustainable-tourism capital of Victoria, spotlighted in our Shore Leave department (p. 24). And there’s also plenty of shades of green in our Good Vibes department (p. 56), which this issue focuses on the best ways to make sure your next vacation is truly sustainable and guilt-free (while still leaving your friends back home green with envy!).

Of course, there are plenty more colors in our cool-weather collection. You could spend an evening planning a road trip for next April’s Great North American Solar Eclipse with our Roads & Rails story (p. 15), or chart a voyage further afield for one of the greatest cruise-port marketplaces (p. 46). You could follow Judi Cuervo’s example by booking a glamorous cruise on the show-stopping Oceania Vista (p. 28), or follow the dreams of Ian Dawson, whose photo skills landed him a job on Ponant’s astounding luxury expedition ship, Le Commandant Charcot (p. 36), and one of his photographs on our cover.

There’s no better time to set your next trip in motion, even if it’s just imagining where you might go.

Happy travels!

Bill Panoff Publisher bpanoff@ppigroup.com

It’s turtleneck time, which means it’s the season to see another color.

There’s no better time to set your next trip in motion.

Suzanne Carmel is a freelance travel writer based in Chicago. Her articles have appeared in The Columbus Dispatch, Home & Away, Elite magazine, Endless Vacation, Interval World, and others. She finds that traveling to faraway places is a welcome contrast to city life and looks forward to future exploration around the world.

Judi Cuervo began her freelance cruise writing in 1998 with Porthole Cruise Magazine where, as J.C. Travell, she authored the Jane Q. Cruiser and horoscope columns as well as regular ship reviews. A New York City native, her cruise writing has appeared in regional, national, Canadian, U.K., and Australian publications.

Kirstin Fawcett lives in the Washington, D.C. area. An avid traveler, she’s visited four continents and 17 countries — including England, which she once sailed to on the Queen Elizabeth 2 High tea has never been the same since.

Jon Fleming lives in London, U.K., and has been traveling all his adult life — from a monthlong round-Europe rail trip when he was 18, to a year-long round-theworld backpacking trip for his honeymoon. For the last 17 years, he has been traveling by cruise ship as a destination lecturer, visiting 130 countries and sailing on 11 world cruise itineraries.

Lola Méndez is an UruguayanAmerican who writes about sustainability, travel, lifestyle, wellness, LGBTQ+, and Latinx topics for CNN, USA Today, InStyle, ELLE, Refinery29, and her responsible-travel blog, MissFilatelista. com.You can follow her on social media @ LolaAnnaMendez.

Cat Thomson is a Scottish freelance journalist who writes about travel, food, and drink for publications including Scotsman, Scotland on Sunday, Scottish Field, Sunday Post, Delicious Magazine, and The Times

Laurie Bain Wilson’s work has appeared in Real Simple, Working Mother, OpenTable, Travel Channel, Travel Market Report, CNN Travel, Eat This, Chowhound, Parents, Salon, Wine Enthusiast, VinePair, and The New York Times, and is a longtime correspondent at The Boston Globe

Bill Panoff Publisher/Editor-in-Chief

Linda Douthat Associate Publisher/Creative Director

Grant Balfour Managing Editor

Skip Anderson Art Director

Sara Linda Proofreader

Suzanne Carmel, Judi Cuervo, Alex Darlington, Kirstin Fawcett, Jon Fleming, Steve Leland, Lola Méndez, Cat Thomson,

Laurie Bain Wilson C ontributing Writers

Adobe Stock, Alamy Stock Photo, AWL Image, eStock Photo, Ian Dawson, Tracy Fleming, Lola Méndez C ontributing Photographers

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Stephanie Davies V P Digital Marketing

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OCTOBER 2023 ISSUE 247

ABOUT THE COVER: Penguins greet PONANT’s Le Commandant Charcot on an Antarctic cruise. For more about photographer Ian Dawson, turn to Cat Thomson’s story on page 36.

Porthole Cruise and Travel Magazine ©2023 Porthole Magazine, Inc.

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By Judi Cuervo

By Cat Thomson

By Jon Fleming

Vista

Cruising aboard the first in Oceania Cruises’ Allura-class vessels

Ponant

An interview with Ian Dawson on Le Commandant Charcot

of iconic cruise-port marketplaces

FRENCH POLYNESI A

06 Letter from the Publisher

07 Contributors

PLANET PLAYGROUND

15 Roads & Rails

We shed light on road trips for the North America Solar Eclipse.

by Laurie Bain Wilson

18 Wine & Dine

Ottawa is a showcase of culinary trends sweeping all of Canada.

by Suzanne Carmel

22 Shop Around

Fall fashions ... in groundbreaking orange.

24 Shore Leave

Victoria, B.C. is a city leading the way to a responsible, sustainable, and ever-enjoyable future.

by Lola Méndez

BEST LIFE

54 Good Vibes

Here’s how travel is building a better tomorrow.

by Alex Darlington

Traveling with an eye on the future isn’t hard, and can open all-new possibilities for fun.

by Kirstin Fawcett

60 Leland & Sea

This issue, Steve cruises through French Polynesia on m/s Paul Gauguin

by Steve Leland

64 Sail Away

Top to bottom: Steve Leland; Karina Smagulova; Josh Greene; Dries Van Noten

THE PERFECT CRUISE DOCKS AT OUR ISLANDS.

Stop at any of our ports for unique culture, white sand beaches, turquoise waters, and picturesque towns with shopping and attractions that offer all the Caribbean experiences you could ever ask for. visitUSVI.com.

EXPERIENCE NATURALLY IN RHYTHM

Discover the Costa Daurada and the spectacular archaeological legacy of Roman Tarragona, the Tarraco archaeological ensemble, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Fall in love at first sight with Catalan Modernism in Gaudi’s hometown of Reus, or with the amazing Poblet monastery. Try outstanding wines and cavas and don’t miss a funfilled day at PortAventura World, home to three of Europe’s leading theme parks.

NEW CRUISE PORT FACILITIES

INAUGURATED OCTOBER 2021 BERTH LINE OF OVER 700 METRES (461 + 267 m)

Roman Amphitheatre – Tarragona

Planning for Totality

by Laurie Bain Wilson

Mother Nature’s big show for 2024 — the North American Solar Eclipse — is anticipated to be the biggest mass-travel event in the U.S. ever.

The eclipse will take place in the afternoon of April 8, 2024, with totality (when the sun is completely covered) lasting up to 4 minutes and 27 seconds. That’s nearly double that of the Great American Eclipse of August 21, 2017, which was witnessed by 20 million people from Oregon to South Carolina.

Next year’s eclipse will be witnessed by millions more — because 32 million people already live within the path of totality in the U.S. and millions more will travel to experience it. In the U.S., the totality path

will begin in Texas at 1:27 p.m. CDT and end in Maine at 3:35 p.m. EDT.

States with path-of-totality bragging rights include: Texas, Oklahoma, Arkansas, Missouri, Tennessee, Kentucky, Illinois, Indiana, Ohio, Michigan, Pennsylvania, New York, Vermont, New Hampshire, and Maine. Also within 200 miles of the path of totality are major metropolitan cities including Boston, New York, Philadelphia, Baltimore, and Washington, D.C.

Witnessing a solar eclipse out on the water is, of course, special. But there are also once-in-a-lifetime opportunities to experience the celestial, star-studded, bucket-list event on the road and rails.

It’s not too early to plan your trip for next spring’s cosmic show. Here, we shed light on road trips for the North American Solar Eclipse.

There are once-in-a-lifetime opportunities to experience the celestial, star-studded, bucket-list event on the road and rails.

Roads & Rails

RAILWAY JOURNEYS

A train can get you on the right track for optimal eclipse viewing next April. Amtrak ran several special solar eclipse train journeys in August 2017 when the Great American Eclipse crossed parts of the country from Oregon to South Carolina. One trip, The Eclipse

Expect a special eclipseviewing package similar to past Amtrak eclipse trips, including commentary from expert astronomers, complimentary eclipse glasses, and a private lounge car, too. At the time of writing, exact plans for Texas Eagle have been undetermined for 2024, according to Amtrak spokesperson Jen Flanagan, but more info will be forthcoming so check Amtrak’s site.

La Cantera Resort & Spa, a 550-acre resort located in one of San Antonio’s highest spots, is optimal for eclipse viewing. The resort is partnering with the University of Texas at San Antonio (UTSA) Department of Physics and Astronomy for a Moon Shadow package,

Express, departed Chicago’s Union Station at 3:00 a.m. for a roundtrip, five-and-a-half hour ride to Carbondale, Illinois, a city that was located in the path of totality. Passengers were given special

which includes a welcome reception, educational presentations under the stars (with telescopes for viewing), space-themed outdoor movies, eclipsethemed dinners, and an eclipse-viewing party. Nice: A portion of the package and event proceeds will benefit a fund dedicated to student success within the UTSA Department of Physics and Astronomy.

www.lacanteraresort.com

The Northeast

The eclipse’s totality path will travel through several states in the Northeast, including Pennsylvania, New York, Vermont, New Hampshire, and Maine.

“I’d recommend the Empire Service, Lake Shore Limited, and The Vermonter for three Northeast routes with views that should align with the solar eclipse,” says Amtrak’s Jen Flanagan. Again, like the Texas Eagle route, details are yet to be announced at press time, she says.

www.Amtrak.com.

Conway Scenic Railroad will run a Sunshine Limited trip departing from the North Conway, New Hampshire, station to “an open location” that’s ideal for solar viewing. The yet-to-be-announced “open location” will be a spot along the route that has “minimal obstructions from trees, brush, and human development with a comparatively low horizon,” says Brian Solomon, spokesperson for the railroad. “Since Conway Scenic operates in the White Mountains, there are only a few select places that meet this criteria,” he says. Check /www.conwayscenic. com or, for statewide updates, go to www.visitnh.gov.

Plan to spend a few post-eclipse days in the destination. Traffic delays are anticipated to be epic, especially immediately following the eclipse.

La Cantera Resort & Spa

Clockwise from top: allexxandarxstock.adobe.com; La Cantera Resort and Spa; Eli Wilson/Wirestock Creatorsstock.adobe.com; thebigland45stock.adobe.com

ROAD TRIPS

There are many opportunities to drive along the path of totality next April. Try to build in ample time to travel a few days before the eclipse and plan to spend a few post-eclipse days in the destination. Traffic delays are anticipated to be epic, especially immediately following the eclipse, when many travelers will hit the road at the same time to travel home.

Texas Hill Country

A road trip to Lake Austin in Texas Hill Country will reward travelers with 1 minute, 46 seconds of total darkness at 1:36 p.m. CST. Lake Austin Spa Resort will celebrate with dining under the stars, ISO solar-viewing safety glasses, group viewing of the eclipse in the resort’s garden area with a former interpretive guide for the National Park Service, and a float picnic on the lake. www.lakeaustin.com

Smithsonian Journeys is offering three incredible Hill Country eclipse trips: Solar Eclipse 2024: Astronomy and Nature in the Texas Hill Country; Solar Eclipse 2024: A Journey from Austin to the Texas Hill Country; and Solar Eclipse 2024: Historic San Antonio to the Texas Hill Country. www.smithsonianjourneys.org

Lake Placid, New York

For a really cool road journey, pack the skis and snowboard to visit this charming village way up north in New York — within a day’s drive for 25 percent of the North American population. The Olympics-hosting town (twice) is within the path of eclipse totality, including Whiteface Mountain, one of the highest peaks in the Adirondack Mountains.

Whiteface will experience the longest totality time of any accessible mountain in the East and an optimal south-facing view; maximum totality up there will last for 3 minutes and 21 seconds.

Take the enclosed eightpassenger gondola (telescopes and camera equipment can easily fit) to the viewing deck on the summit of Little Whiteface Mountain. Or, on skis or a snowboard via a quad lift, go even higher, 4,386 feet up the mountain.

“While no one could guarantee there will still be snow, Whiteface Mountain has among the most advanced snowmaking systems on the planet, and as a result, our skiers and riders have enjoyed outstanding conditions throughout the year and more recently, well into April,” says Jaime Collins, member of the Olympic Authority communications team. “We are typically still open the first couple

weekends of April, even despite warm conditions later in the season, so I’d say it’s very likely we will still be whisking skiers and snowboarders up the summit quad lift next April 8.” Plans include a Lake Placid solar eclipse viewing party.

www.lakeplacid.com/ 2024-total-solar-eclipse

Erie, Pennsylvania, and Niagara Falls, New York

The eclipse’s path of totality will travel from Erie, Pennsylvania to the Niagara Falls region, and so can eclipse chasers — it’s about an hour-and-a-half drive up I-90 from Erie to Niagara Falls. The sky will get eerie in Erie — the only city in Pennsylvania to lie the path of totality — for almost four minutes. And lots of celebratory activities are planned; for details, visit www.ErieEclipse2024.com.

And Niagara Falls is gushing about its lights-out location. (Buffalo, about a half-hour drive, will also pull out all the stops on the big day.) Niagara Falls State Park will host educational solar-eclipse programming, and local campgrounds at Four Mile Creek State Park and Golden Hill State Park will open earlier than normal to accommodate travelers who wish to camp. The parks are both located along the shores of Lake Ontario, which is ideal for eclipse viewing.

www.niagarafallsusa.com

Beyond these highlights, there will be plenty more going on for the April 8, 2024 eclipse across North America. For updated info including maps, safety tips, and viewing opportunities, visit www greatamericaneclipse.com..

Niagara Falls

Whiteface Mountain gondola

Lake Austin Spa Resort

stock.adobe.com; Whiteface Mountain; Lake Austin Spa Resort

Onward & Upward... to ByWard!

Ottawa — a river-cruise port in its own right — is also a showcase of culinary trends sweeping all of Canada. Taste the top of the top at ByWard Market.

by Suzanne Carmel

OTTAWA’S BYWARD MARKET IS A VIBRANT DISTRICT of Canada’s capital city, one of the country’s oldest farmers’ markets, and a feast for the senses. It’s named for Colonel John By, who built the Rideau Canal and widened George and and York streets just east of the canal to accommodate farmers’ horse-drawn wagons frequenting the market. Sample a wide array of international cuisine that made its way into Canada as well as local offerings that evoke a sense of place. Stroll by the outdoor stands and through the indoor building to more than 120 places to eat and drink in the four-by-four-block area. It’s a lot to take in. Even those with a healthy appetite and bottomless stomach will be overwhelmed. Ottawa is a hidden gem, a lesser-known culinary hub. The city boasts four culinary programs including the only Cordon Bleu campus in North America. For a city of approximately one million inhabitants, it’s an impressive statistic.

PASTRY & WINE

¢ Stefanie Siska of C’est Bon Ottawa leads food tours through the market and offers culinary classes at the nearby cooking school she co-owns with Chef Georges Laurier. The tours are a great introduction to the best of what’s available, and end with a quintessential Canadian product — the BeaverTails pastry. Stand at the corner of William and George streets and you’ll face the original BeaverTails store, serving up whole-wheat pastries shaped like a beaver tail and smothered with sweet toppings. Try the Killaloe Sunrise (cinnamon, sugar, and lemon), or opt for super sweet combos such as Bananarama (chocolate hazelnut topping with bananas), or Strawberry Cheesecake (cheesecake spread, strawberry jam, and graham-cracker crumbs).

Pam and Grant Hooker first introduced Canadians to this messy but incredibly delicious treat in 1978 at the Killaloe Fair. Today, they’re sold throughout Canada and in select U.S. and international locations. Stands selling the treats line the frozen Rideau Canal each winter, fueling skaters to further brace for the cold.

Stefanie Siska Chef Georges Laurier

Top to bottom: Jeromestock.adobe.com; C'est Bon Ottawa (x4)

FOR ANOTHER SWEET BUT DECIDEDLY ADULT TREAT , stop in at the Wine Rack, or at duty free shops throughout the country for a bottle of icewine. Though the first icewine was made by mistake in Germany in 1794 (and is still produced there), the bulk of this sweet, after-dinner digestif is made in Ontario, at Niagara-on-the-Lake, where it was first produced in 1984.

A bit pricey in Canada, it’s even more so when exported, due in part to the unpredictable nature of production and the risk involved. Icewine grapes remain on the vine well into the winter and are picked in the middle of the night. There is risk of damage from inclement weather, from birds eating the grapes, and in managing the overall health of the vines. The temperature outside dictates the time to pick the grapes, with the majority hand-harvested.

A sizable number of grapes must be picked for each bottle of icewine. Frozen grapes yield a higher concentration of sugar, but just a drop or two of juice per grape rather than the 8 to 12 drops of juice used for red or white table wine. Once the grapes are picked in the middle of the night, there is a rush to press them while still frozen.

CANADIAN FRESH

¢ In a 100-mile radius around the core city there are more than 1,100 working farms. While shopping at ByWard Market you’ll find local fruits and vegetables — such as haskap (looks like an elongated blueberry), summer- and fall-harvest strawberries and raspberries, wild blueberries, wild garlic and garlic scapes, a large variety of beets, and fiddleheads (curly new fronds of an ostrich fern).

You can find maple products such as maple butter, maple sugar, and maple taffy, along with distinctively Canadian birch syrup.

Taste your way here, nibble across the country, and soon you’ll savor some of the deliciously unique influences and ingredients that make up Canadian cuisine.

Fiddleheads

BeaverTails

Canadian Classics

¢ For a switch to a savory Canadian treat, order poutine at restaurants and fast food shops across Canada. French fries covered with gravy and cheese curds are hearty enough to eat on their own, or as a side dish. Every establishment has their own unique twist on this delicious dish, which was invented in Quebec in the 1950s and sold in rural snack bars before making its way across the country. Poutine is so popular in Ottawa, there are two annual festivals centered on it!

The cheese curds that top this dish are not breaded, as they sometimes are in the U.S., but white or yellow cheddar cheese so fresh it “squeaks” when you bite it. At the Clarendon Tavern in the ByWard Market, poutine is also topped with smoked duck breast, a welcome local twist.

BUTTER TARTS

are another Canadian culinary offering served with a twist. The first known printed recipe in Canada showed up in a cookbook in Barrie, Ontario — a combination of butter, sugar, syrup, and eggs baked in a pastry shell. Sometimes the tarts include fillings such as raisins or pecans and can be baked firmer or less solid. Sold at country fairs or weekend markets, you can also find them on The Butter Tart Tour in Ontario featuring more than 50 locations throughout Kawarthas Northumberland — a good way to sample a few variations or every possible combination in the vicinity!.

Butter tarts

Chef Georges Laurier

Top to bottom: zakiroffstock.adobe.com; C'est Bon Ottawa; Ahmed Shaffikstock.adobe.com; fudiostock.adobe.com; Shubham Sharan/Unsplash

CHASE THE THRILL

Here, new and exhilarating opportunities for heart-stopping adventure await around every corner. From soaring above the rainforest’s lush canopies on a zipline and climbing aboard the one-of-a-kind Scenic Railway to walking among the clouds as you hike up towards Mt. Liamuiga’s peak, the island’s many offerings invite you to discover something new; something thrilling. Follow your appetite for adventure, and let it lead you to St. Kitts.

OK, MIRANDA PRIESTLY…

BUT THERE’S NOTHING WRONG WITH THE CLASSICS!

Especially when you’ve done what these designers have and given these autumn colors a fresh twist. The leaves are turning bright new colors, so why shouldn’t we? Whether it’s a lingering September sunset, or a spritz of citrus in your club soda, or the waves of aspen, maple, and hawthorn lining the slopes outside your river ship’s balcony, we’ve got some kicky ways to fit right in.

SWEET MARMALADE

1. Karina Smagulova turns a bouquet (or a single poppy) into a work of modern art with the White No. 101 Vase, handcrafted from grogged stoneware.

2. Nothing pops like Pop Art, and Taschen’s collection Andy Warhol: Polaroids,1958-1987, has quick, colorful portraits of a life lived to make a glamorous scene.

3. Flemish designer Dries Van Noten unites clashing textures with his SSENSE Exclusive Orange Heeled Sandals, which combine bright pony-hair uppers with sculptural-metal heels.

Clockwise from top: Skip Anderson; Karina Smagulova; Taschen; Dries Van Noten

BE SEEN, TANGERINE

Despite the autumnal associations (anyone up for butternut squash while we carve these jack-o’-lanterns?) psychologists say the color orange is most associated with rejuvenation, a return to childhood, and enthusiastic optimism … not to mention a little bit of pride.

GINGER SPICY

1. Interior designer Josh Greene created Dowel’s La Jolla Lounge Chairs for upscale furniture outlet as part of a simple, sensual collection intended to fit in anywhere — but still be noticed.

2. Bold and functional, Balenciaga’s Orange Cash Card Holder stands out as a hard-to-lose hybrid of streetwear and high fashion.

3. Looking at the world through saffron glasses means everything is golden. Easy to do with The Attico’s Linda Farrow Marfa Shades, which boast blue-blocking amber lenses in a shocking pink frame.

4. Danish designer Tilde Bjerregaard made the Hay’s Outline Pyjama Collection in cheerful colors of 100 percent organic cotton for comfort and style snuggled up or out and about.

5. Nike’s Air Force 1 Low Retro Sneakers are made for joy, with padded leather uppers and a transparent swoosh, bringing back a style that made the brand a household name in 1982.

Top to bottom: Josh Greene for Dowel; Balenciaga; The Attico; Hay; Nike

Long live the majestic provincial capital — a city leading, by example, the way to a responsible, sustainable, and ever-enjoyable future.

Green Victoria

by Lola Méndez

Greater Victoria, the capital of British Columbia, has become a leader in sustainable tourism. Officially, the city’s environmental initiatives include the Climate Leadership Plan for reducing emissions by 80 percent and switching to 100 percent renewable energy by 2050. But on a personal level, the carbon-neutral and climate-positive destination has much to offer for shore excursions while your cruise ship is docked here.

Parliament building

Downtown at dusk

Clockwise: Fridmar Damm / Huber / eStock Photo; Tony Craddockstock.adobe.com; RTG Bikes

reason I can see my kids grow up.”

KATE, DIAGNOSED WITH BREAST CANCER IN 2019

Shore Leave

Truly Green

From the moment you sail in from the Salish Sea and disembark at the cruise dock, you’ll notice how green “The Garden City” really is — not only in the sense that it’s surrounded by dense forest. Sustainability efforts keep the Victoria Inner Harbour pristine, making it a thriving habitat for wildlife from orcas to California gray whales to sea lions to otters. Get around using the city’s well-connected BC Transit bus system, which includes electric buses and a fleet of low-carbon buses running on biofuels.

If you don’t have time for whale watching with Victoria’s sustainable tour operators such as Prince of Whales, Orca Spirit, and Eagle Wing

Tours, don’t fret. You can still get out on the water in an eco-conscious way by taking one of the electric zero-emission water taxis around the harbor and trying your luck at spotting marine life. Get dropped off at The Fairmont Empress Hotel dock or Chinatown stops.

Do as the locals do and get out on two wheels to explore. Rent an E-bike from Ride the Glide and spend the late morning visiting downtown.

After biking through Victoria’s Chinatown, ride along the coast toward Beacon Hill Park. Enjoy the views across the water of The United States at Finlayson Point and then cycle over to the world’s tallest freestanding totem pole carved with Kwakwaka’wakw motifs including local fauna such as a bear and a whale.

Mindful Dining

Heading back downtown, there are plenty of sustainable lunch choices. For a quick bite, there’s Big Wheel Burger, Canada’s first carbon-neutral fast-food restaurant, which sources produce grown from community gardens within 100 miles of the eatery and uses compostable packaging.

If you’re plant-based, return your rented E-bike and enjoy one of downtown Victoria’s many vegan eateries, choosing from pizza at Virtuous Pie, organic dishes at Be Love, vegetarian fare at ReBar, or buffet-style dining at Green Cuisine Vegetarian Restaurant. To really get a taste for Victoria, join the Off the Eaten Track food tour, a BiosphereCommitted business. sustainable souvenirs on Lower Johnson Street, unofficially Victoria’s sustainable shopping drag with many local retailers that are part of the BC Green

Ecologyst sells high-quality, minimalist clothing crafted locally in small batches and made of responsibly sourced

organic cotton, and wools that are ZQ-certified merino, RWScertified, or Climate Beneficial. The boutique carries items for all genders in neutral and

Anián is a local, circular-

for exploring the outdoors. Stylishly functional items are made with natural recycled textiles providing minimal environmental impact. The collection is inspired by the great outdoors and each piece is crafted to withstand the elements. Materials used in the line are predominantly salvaged and natural fibers.

Pop into the Zero Waste Emporium to pick up practical sustainable goods. Vancouver

Island’s first zero-waste grocery shop doesn’t have much in the way of packaging. Instead, it has refill stations, loose herbs, and bath-andbody products.

If you’re looking for thoughtful, locally-made gifts for loved ones visit The Good Planet Company, An Eco Lifestyle Store on Fort Street. This green gift shop’s curated selection of eco-friendly offerings include bed, bath, and beauty items, and more.

Find more souvenirs at Makers, located on Victoria’s main shopping strip, Government Street. The darling shop offers handmade locally-created items, with 100 percent of the price tag returned to the artisans. Browse jewelry, home goods, kitchen utensils, and more.

Last Calls

Unwind from the busy day in Greater Victoria and grab a craft beer before returning to your ship. Phillips Beer is a responsible brewery with sustainability at the heart of its operations thanks to initiatives including CO2 recapture, water reduction, and glass repurposing.

If you prefer cocktails, head to the harborfront landmark Fairmont Empress (a Five Green Key Hotel). At the hotel’s Q Bar, enjoy a concoction made with the iconic lavender-hued Empress 1908 Gin, distilled locally in Greater Victoria and inspired by the Châteauesque building. Choose from the floral Empress Lemonade or a Negroni Violetto.

Finish your eco-conscious day in Greater Victoria on a high note by going on a 20-minute scenic tour on a Harbour Air seaplane. The world’s first fully carbonneutral airline will fly you over The Strait of Juan de Fuca and the Olympic Peninsula before landing on the harbor..

Beacon Hill Park

Sustainability efforts keep the Victoria Inner Harbour pristine, making it a thriving habitat for wildlife from orcas to California gray whales to sea lions to otters.

Anián

Chinatown

The Good Planet Company

Orca watching tours

Be Love

Empress 1908 Gin cocktail

Zero Waste Emporium

What we always loved about Oceania Cruises …and more!

by Judi Cuervo

ere it not for the 18th-century baroque-period bastions within view, we might think we were in Hollywood instead of Malta. A lively, open-air cocktail reception and decadent dinner kicks off an evening filled with lavish entertainment and gala celebration. Even big names are in attendance: Emmy Award-winning food personality Giada De Laurentiis, Grammy and Emmy awardwinning Harry Connick Jr., and Dancing with the Stars pro dancer and choreographer Britt Stewart among them.

But the real star on this glittering evening is the ship itself. This is the christening ceremony of Oceania Vista, the first vessel in Oceania Cruises’ 67,000 ton, 1,200-guest Allura class, and the line’s first new ship in more than a decade. A Connick concert, Stewart performance, and even Vista godmother Giada’s release of the giant ceremonial bottle of Veuve Clicquot to shatter against Vista’s hull and officially name and christen her are all peripheral.

Instead of white steel, we view an artistic composition of materials, shapes, and forms.

Oceania Cruises (x2)

A Masterpiece by Design

In terms of design, Vista is a masterpiece of dramatic flow and soothing lighting. Throughout the ship, neutral colors with touches of gold predominate, creating a relaxing backdrop that is energized by wondrous artwork and marvelous attention to detail.

Nowhere is this more obvious than Vista’s atrium, the entry point to the ship, with its dramatic curving staircase alongside an illuminated, floor-to-ceiling, crystal sculpture, the piece’s gleam changing color so gently that one wonders if it’s a trick of the eye. And the “wow” factor continues throughout the ship, whether it’s through a remarkable piece of artwork on a staircase landing, the playful light fixtures that adorn the ceiling of the Grand Lounge, or the shimmering glass partitions that grace the popular pre-dinner cocktail favorite Martinis. The result is interior spaces that are striking, but timeless, sophisticated, and elegant.

Dazzling design continues even when you pass through the automatic sliding glass doors on deck 14 to gaze out over the pool

deck. Again, curves replace the typical rectangular deck design and, instead of white steel, we view an artistic composition of materials, shapes, and forms. Even the staircase leading to the pool deck curves downward, arriving at a flowing arrangement, from its rounded-corner swimming pool bordered by two hot tubs and circular shaded sunbeds to the circular sunbeds that snake around the edge of the deck, a fence of timber creating privacy.

Always Taste-ful… Now Even More So

Oceania Cruises has long touted “The Finest Cuisine at Sea®” and any Oceania fan will tell you that the line’s dining program is the main reason they return again and again. With one chef for every 10 guests aboard Vista, and 11 culinary venues (three of them new), that trend is bound to continue.

Oceania’s familiar restaurants — the Italian Toscana, Polo Steak House, pan-Asian Red Ginger, magnificently re-designed Grand Dining Room, and casual spots Terrace Café and Waves — continue to entice diners with inventive menus, exciting new designs, and no surcharges. Vista also debuts three sumptuous new dining experiences for those who are hungry for more.

The result is interior spaces that are striking, but timeless, sophisticated, and elegant.

Ember offers American classics against an elegant backdrop of wood and brick, a fauxflame shadow box creating a warm and inviting environment. This is the place to indulge in potato soup with bacon, sour cream and cheddar, New England lobster roll, grilled marinated double-cut Kurobuta pork chop, or grilled beef tenderloin … and to top off the meal with a sinful triplechocolate brownie dessert.

The wellness-inspired Aquamar takes the pain out of virtuous eating with a breakfast and lunch menu filled with delectable fruit-topped energy bowls, four varieties of avocado toast, and a vast selection of fresh-squeezed juices and smoothies; The Bakery, conveniently located adjacent to the popular Baristas coffee bar, is the place to go for fresh-baked croissant, tender donuts, and muffins along with savory snacks like mini-quiches and maybe the best tuna salad sandwich at sea.

Vista is a masterpiece of dramatic flow and soothing lighting.

PRIVÉE

OCEANIA’S FAMILIAR RESTAURANTS — THE ITALIAN TOSCANA, POLO STEAK HOUSE, PAN-ASIAN RED GINGER, MAGNIFICENTLY RE-DESIGNED GRAND DINING ROOM, AND CASUAL SPOTS TERRACE CAFÉ AND WAVES — CONTINUE TO ENTICE DINERS WITH INVENTIVE MENUS, EXCITING NEW DESIGNS, AND NO SURCHARGE

A cramped shower? Not any longer. Aboard Vista, showering is a pleasure in a unit that could easily accommodate three people — three tall people, in fact — under a choice of rain shower, hand-held, or stationary spray.

Staterooms and Suites: Pure Comfort…and Space!

“We want it to be better than home.”

These words come from Greg Walton of Studio DADO, the Miami-based boutique firm that, four and a half years ago, took its first creative steps toward designing the ship that would become Vista.

A pop of color from a framed floral print interrupts the neutral tones of my 291-square-foot ConciergeLevel Veranda Stateroom, a category that entitles me to access the nearby Concierge Lounge, which offers snacks, soft drinks, coffee, and tea 24/7. USB ports are located beside a bed topped with 1,000-thread linens and a seventh-generation ULTRA Tranquility mattress that incorporates a new fabric that reduces body temperature by 2 degrees C (1.111 degrees F) for a refreshing feel. Carpeting composed of natural fabrics with no dyes or chemicals to trigger allergies covers the floor. A desk and sitting area lead to a balcony outfitted with cushioned chairs and a cocktail table.

But it is the bathroom and shower that are the real showstoppers! A new layout with medicine chest and three-drawer cabinet tucked neatly into a corner creates blessed space while ingenious angles and shelves transform the typical cramped cruise-ship bathroom into a roomy oasis, even with the addition of a full vanity beneath a large, circular mirror that adjusts from traditional lighting to make-up mirror.

A cramped shower? Not any longer. Aboard Vista , showering is a pleasure in a unit that could easily accommodate three people — three tall people, in fact — under a choice of rain shower, hand-held, or stationary spray. Skipped your pre-holiday leg wax? A metal rod propped in the lower corner of the stall makes shaving a breeze.

Sip Ahoy!

From Macallan Whisky and Brugal 1888 Doblemente Anejado Rum programs to a new and decadent wine-pairing lunch where each sumptuous course is paired with an exquisite vintage, to the intimate Dom Pérignon Experience dinners at Privée, Vista introduces an intoxicating new focus on wines, spirits, and mixology. For a little theater with your cocktail, head to Founder’s Bar, tucked away within the ship’s casino and offering a menu of nearly 30 craft cocktails. Expect smoke, bubbles, and a delicious result, like my Italian, a cocktail consisting of Bulleit bourbon, Amaro Averna, Aperol, lemon juice, and oldfashioned bitters, swirled together and then placed in a chamber that fills with applewood smoke to lend additional flavor and aroma.

With Vista , Oceania Cruises has succeeded in combining the new with the familiar to create an astounding ship. It’s bound to excite the line’s existing fans while drawing a shipload of new ones!.

We want it to be better than home.

Arctic

What’s it like to become a photo ambassador on a luxury exploration line? In a word: dreamy.

Exposures

by Cat Thomson

EVER SINCE HIS CHILDHOOD, IAN DAWSON has dreamed of exploring the icy polar landscapes, and his dream came true when a stranger knocked on his door. He explains, “Someone from my village of Gartmore, Scotland, worked for Ponant Cruises and had seen my photographs. He asked if I’d like to go on their first-ever voyage to the Arctic. My answer was yes!”

Experiences Aboard

Ian documented the wildlife and incredible landscapes on Ponant’s first high-polar exploration cruise in 2021 and believed this voyage was a one-off opportunity. However, the French luxury cruise company discovered that professional photographers were a benefit to the guests on board. So he, along with Sue Flood and Cindy Miller Hopkins, are now photo ambassadors who follow in the footsteps of the exploring greats. They cruise across the world to the polar extremes in the North and South for Ponant, helping guests improve their image-taking while shooting their own stills and footage.

It doesn’t matter what level of photo experience you have, Ian explains: “Some guests just have a mobile phone, while others bring significant amounts of camera kit. The unique thing is we don’t give a couple of lectures and step away. Guests are able to come to us for one-to-one tuition anytime in the observation lounge. We give tuition and are on hand to help them take great shots onshore.”

He discovered that helping guests improve their photographic skills is as satisfying as taking the perfect shot himself. “It’s great to see someone develop their skills and take images they didn’t think were possible at the start of the voyage.”

For months of each year, Ian is based aboard Le Commandant Charcot, a 492-foot luxury exploration vessel named after French polar explorer and scientist JeanBaptiste Charcot. Guests can even participate in polar research in onboard laboratories. “Not many vessels on the planet can get near the North Pole,” Ian says. “It’s the world’s first hybrid electric ship propelled by liquid natural gas and one of the world’s most powerful icebreakers. It’s remarkable; there’s nothing out there with the same level of luxurious comfort.”

On board, there are 123 staterooms and suites with private balconies or terraces. You can expect refined interiors and elegant public spaces; a theater, gym, and an indoor pool with a spa which has both a sauna and snow room. The three restaurants are operated by multiple-Michelin-starred chef Alain Ducasse, so the food is second to none. The observation deck has uninterrupted views around the circumference of the ship, making it the ideal spot to capture images.

Extreme Environments

Before joining the crew, Ian, an awardwinning photographer, had a career as a newspaper picture editor — but has always been drawn to cold environments. He volunteers with Lomond Mountain Rescue Team and says, “It’s the first time ever that my photographic and mountaineering rescue skills have combined perfectly.”

Not many vessels on the planet can get near the North Pole.

The townspeople hadn’t seen a ship for 8 months because the fjord was frozen.

The polar regions are unique and fragile places but responsible tourism is important, Ian says, “For people to care and understand these places, they need to see it for themselves. Guests return home as passionate ambassadors. The educational aspect is massive and everything is done with a minimum of impact on the environment.” To preserve the pristine environment, Le Commandant Charcot has been designed to leave no trace, with cuttingedge eco-friendly solutions. Ponant is a member of The International Organisation for Antarctic Tourism and Operators (IAATO) and the Association of Arctic Expedition Cruise Operators (AECO). These organizations ensure cruise operators work within environmental guidelines.

They enforce strict biosecurity protocols: all clothes and equipment are stringently cleaned and disinfected before shore visits, and wildlife must not be disturbed. Le Commandant Charcot is often the only ship operating in isolated polar areas and Ian has experienced the notorious Drake Passage in all types of weather but explains, “It can be wild with challenging conditions, but the team always keeps you safe.”

Encounters to Remember

He shares a few highlights of what you can expect to see on voyages.

“In the Arctic, polar bear cubs can be seen venturing out onto the ice for the first time. They’re really inquisitive animals and will have never encountered anything like us before. We see things and go to places that people have never been to before, particularly at the end of the winter.

“With 24 hours of daylight, if a bear appears in the middle of the night, the captain will wake me and turn on the electric motors, so the ship is virtually silent. The bear will then decide if it

wants to come to you or just wants to get on its way — it’s the bear’s decision to interact. It’s incredible, you are looking at them from the safety of the deck about 20 feet away. You never forget your first polar bear sighting. I like photographing them in these quiet moments when you’re just in each other’s company.”

It is not always about wildlife spotting. Last year, a memorable stopover was provided at one of the Earth’s most remote settlements, at Ittoqqortoomiit, Greenland.

“We anchored in the solid sea ice about 2 miles away, and the townspeople hadn’t seen a ship for 8 months because the fjord was frozen, but with their agreement, the guests walked or dog-sledded to meet the locals. Their daily existence is far removed from ours, but they were happy to share the experience with us, and it’s heartening that there is still real remoteness on the planet.”

MAGNIFICENT

MARKETPLACES

Shop These Great Markets of the Cruising World

When time is limited in a port, you want to get to feel the pulse of the city as quickly as possible. In many of the world’s ports, a visit to the main market is the perfect way to sample the atmosphere of the city, to catch some local flavor, and to get to meet the locals. (Of course, people always tend to be friendlier when they’re trying to sell you something!) Markets like Barcelona’s La Boqueria or Istanbul’s Grand Bazaar have become tourist attractions in their own right, but we’ve selected seven more of the cruising world’s most interesting markets. Some are uber-clean and super-organized, while others are chaotically frenetic and can be a little challenging … but each one will give you a great introduction to their city.

by Jon Fleming

Ho Chi Minh City — Ben Thanh Market

This vibrant market housed in a French-era colonial building acts as the perfect reflection of Vietnam’s largest city. It’s hot, noisy, and overcrowded, but it’s also wonderfully energetic, full of character, and a sheer force of nature. At the front, you’ll find a maze of stalls piled high with T- shirts, scarves, and knock-offs, where you can haggle to your heart’s content with the persistent vendors — make sure you negotiate hard for a low price, but maybe keep your expectations low in terms of quality. Then venture on and you come to the colorful produce section where the brave can sample the dishes from the rough-and-ready food stalls. While at the back is the rather pungent fish section, where the strong-stomached can watch the snails, fish, and frogs ready to be yanked out of their overflowing tanks and disemboweled right in front of you — if you so wish!

Adelaide — Central Market

Reputedly the Southern Hemisphere’s largest covered market, the charming South Australian city of Adelaide can boast a superb produce market that proudly displays the bounty of the fertile farmland surrounding the city, while also showing off the multicultural influences that act on today’s Australia, particularly from Southeast Asia. It’s all very clean and efficient, and in a bustling but friendly atmosphere, there are over 70 traders showcasing their wares. So, as well as having a great choice from the standard produce stalls, foodies love browsing the artisan cheesemakers, bakers, and delicatessens. Of course, the amazing wines of the nearby Barossa Valley make for a great purchase to wash it all down.

Palermo — Il Capo Market

Palermo is famous for its street markets, and the lively Capo Market is the godfather of them all. Il Capo has been going for over a thousand years, and with its similarities to the souks of North Africa, it still bears traces of the time when the Arabs were in charge of Sicily back in the 9th century. The size of the gigantic swordfish heads on display just need to be seen to be believed. As they shout out the day’s special offers on wonderfully fresh fruit, veg, meat, and fish, the characterful vendors have a great sense of fun about them — so many of them look like they could have had starring roles in Goodfellas or The Sopranos. This is definitely a place to keep an eye on your wallet as you explore, but there’s no better way to soak up the raucous and unruly atmosphere of Sicily’s fabulous capital city.

Hokkaido — Hakodate Morning Market

You don’t have to be in Japan for long before you work out that the Japanese absolutely adore their seafood (the fresher the better). A visit to the popular Hakodate Morning Market in Hokkaido is a great place to see Japan’s love affair with fish in action. Even better, the market is directly opposite the cruise berth so it’s just a 5-minute walk from the ship, and in spite of its name, the market tends to stay open until around 2 p.m., so you can visit after your morning excursion. The streets around the market are lined with stalls selling huge orange spider crabs and tanks full of alien-like squid floating around, ready for the grill. Inside the spotless covered section, there’s even a large pool where tourists (mainly local, in this off-the-beaten-track destination) can fish for their own super-fresh live squid!

Valencia — Mercat Central

This superb covered market certainly lives up to its name — it’s right in the center of the city, and it’s central to Valencia’s burgeoning food scene. Europe’s largest produce market is housed in a beautiful wrought-iron modernist building, where you’ll find stall after stall of neatly stacked fruit and veg, beautifully presented fresh fish, and enough meat to keep the most dedicated carnivore happy. Outside there are plenty of popular bars serving up the Valenciano specialty, paella, but inside the market there are also some really excellent restaurants, like Bar Central, where gourmands are more than willing to queue for up to an hour for a seat around the bar to sample some of Valencia’s freshest and tastiest bar food.

Halifax — Halifax Seaport Farmers Market

If you’re lucky enough to be calling in at Halifax on the weekend and you don’t want to venture too far from the ship, then the Halifax Seaport Farmers Market is right on your doorstep — it recently relocated to a new venue at Pavilion 23, just close by the cruise terminal. Best of all, the market is inside, so in the event of inclement Nova Scotian weather you can get shelter from the elements. As you’d expect, there’s plenty of fresh produce on sale from the local farms, but there are also lots of boutique foodstuffs available, plus quirky souvenir and handicraft stalls too — and if you’re feeling hungry, there are normally lots of opportunities to try before you buy. To complete the experience, as you browse or stop to eat at the array of delicious food stalls, there are often buskers entertaining the crowds.

Colombo — Pettah Market •

This crazy street market in Colombo’s central district is certainly an assault on the senses. It’s all firmly aimed at the domestic market, so you get to rub elbows with the locals as you pick your way through the teeming crowds, calling in at stalls selling pretty much anything you could possibly want — clothes, electronics, spices, you name it — all in an incredibly busy atmosphere that’s bordering on chaos (but not quite descending into full pandemonium). The covered food section is a little less frenetic, where the friendly vendors are usually happy to show off their array of exotic fruits and vegetables to inquisitive visitors. Even though you’re constantly dodging tuk-tuks and carts carrying yet more produce to be sold, the atmosphere is invariably friendly, and people are constantly shouting out cheery “hellos” at the sight of an adventurous tourist .

Left: Tracy Fleming (x3); Prashanth Balastock.adobe.com

Right: Tracy Fleming

People are constantly shouting out cheery “hellos” at the sight of an adventurous tourist.

Green Rivers Catch the Sun

When it comes to sustainability, it’s not just ocean ships that are making important strides. AmaWaterways is bringing ecoefficient technology to its river cruises. The award-winning company is currently at work on two new ships that will embody practical and imaginative ideas to reduce their carbon footprint. They’re currently experimenting with ways to minimize fuel consumption, to cut back on the use of paper on board, and to combat food waste. And, like Hurtigruten, they’re employing the use of solar panels. “We continue to find new ways to enhance our efforts in sustainable tourism,” said Kristin Karst, AmaWaterways’ executive vice-president.

Good Vibes Around the World

Here’s how travel is building a better tomorrow.

by Alex Darlington

21st-Century Solar Sailing

But on longer cruises, it’s often necessary to stop and recharge. To solve the problem, master innovator Gerry Larssen-Fedde has outfitted the proposed vessel, Sea Zero, with three sails that stretch more than 50 yards in the air, each equipped with solar panels. On windy days, the sails can power the ship while simultaneously “topping off” the batteries. Construction of the first solar-sail electric cruise ship is scheduled to begin in 2027, with the ship entering service in 2030.

Titanic Treasure Coming Home

In a case of life imitating art, an underwater research team has discovered a gold necklace in the wreckage of Titanic Movie lovers recall the centerpiece of the 1997 film, Titanic, is a diamond necklace believed to have gone down with the ship. We learn that survivor Rose Bukater has actually retained the precious artifact.

In real life, researchers from the deep-sea mapping company, Magellan, made the discovery, using high-tech imaging from remote submersibles. Unlike diamonds, this gold necklace was made with a massive, fossilized tooth from a Megalodon, a prehistoric species of shark.

Now they’re hoping to find living descendents of the owner and return the Megalodon necklace to them.

They’ll use artificial intelligence to scan old photos of passengers boarding the ship to see

Better Bees, Sweet Cuisine

This fall, Cunard will be bringing some extra sweetness to guests on their Festival of Food and Wine Voyage. The cruise will welcome famed honey sommelier Sarah Wyndham Lewis, and her equally renowned beekeeper husband, Dale Gibson. Wyndham will give insightful talks and conduct tasting seminars, acquainting guests with some of the world’s rarest and most exciting honey. Gibson will be speaking on the subject of sustainable beekeeping. The cruise will embark from Southampton for New York on September 22, 2023.

Dale Gibson

Megalodon-tooth necklace

(Sails extended)

Good Vibes

7 Simple Tips for Selecting a Sustainable Resort

by Kirsten Fawcett

Do you care about being a globally responsible traveler, but also about squeezing in some serious relaxation (think sunbathing, frosty beverages, and pool floats) during your next far-flung vacation? The two don’t need to be mutually exclusive so long as you’re mindful of where you plan on parking your lounge chair. We checked with sustainable tourism expert Dr. Rachel Dodds, a professor at Toronto Metropolitan University, and coauthor of the 2022 book Are We There Yet? Travelling More Responsibly With Your Children. She shared some simple tips for resort-hopping with a

conscience. “Tourism can be an amazing force for good,” Dodds says. “But we have to make an effort. It’s about making better choices that are aligned with our values.”

1. READ GUEST REVIEWS

Travel websites, booking platforms, and other online resources can provide an unvarnished peek inside the premises of resorts claiming to embrace ecofriendly practices while not living up to their promises. Keep your eyes peeled for consumer reviews calling out greenwashing, irresponsible land development, and misleading ads — as

well as for praise directed toward resorts that are implementing Earthfriendly policies. Some of them “are doing much better than others,” Dodds says, and satisfied guests “should be reporting the ones that are actually making an effort.”

Not only will this feedback steer potential visitors in the right direction, but it might drive positive change: Business managers do read

the comment cards, social media, and online forums, Dobbs attests, citing a time in Portugal where she complained online that a local restaurant only offered bottle water and erroneously claimed the local water was undrinkable. “I wrote on TripAdvisor how disappointed I was in this restaurant,” Dobbs says. “And the restaurant then changed their policy. One thing can make a real difference.”

2. ASK QUESTIONS

“If you can’t find an environmental sustainability policy on [the resort’s] website,” Dodds cautions, “chances are they don’t have one.” Take matters into your own hands by asking resort officials what steps they’re taking to go green: Have they eliminated single-use plastics like disposable mini-toiletries? Do they conserve water by washing linens and towels every three days and eschew bottled water in favor of water coolers? Do they have automatic energy-saving lights installed in the guestrooms? And what have they done to reduce food waste?

“It’s about making better choices that are aligned with our values.”

Traveling with an eye on the future isn’t hard, and can open all-new possibilities for fun.

3. DO YOUR HOMEWORK

Read up on your chosen resort’s location before fully committing to booking a suite. Some tropical destinations don’t have recycling infrastructure or are in water-scarce regions; meanwhile, “a five-star hotel in Singapore will use as much water as an entire village does in a year,” according to Dodds. Your visit might

strain resources even further and exacerbate growing waste issues— and “maybe, as a conscious consumer you shouldn’t be perpetuating that problem,” Dobbs concludes.

4. FLY DIRECT

Chances are, the resort of your dreams isn’t local. If that’s the case, consider one that’s accessible via an airport offering nonstop flights from your location. When

it comes to carbon emissions, “one long-haul flight is the same as driving a car for an entire year,” Dodds says. Still, at the end of the day (and your journey), direct flights are better for the environment than multi-leg ones since they contribute less pollution.

5. GO LOCAL

Sustainable tourism “is not just about having less impact on the environment,”

according to Dodds. “It’s also about having a better impact on the communities that you visit.” Booking a stay at a locally owned resort instead of through, say, an American chain, ensures that your hardearned money stays in — and benefits — the local economy. These types of lodgings are also more likely to connect tourists with authentic restaurants, artisanal souvenirs (think handwoven textiles instead of T-shirts sewn in

SINGLE-USE PLASTICS

Booking a room during the low season is better for your bottom line and the place you’re visiting.

China), and off-the-beatenpath excursions, enriching the entire community’s bottom line while providing a more dynamic visit for the culturally curious.

6. THINK TWICE ABOUT ANIMAL TOURISM

Whether it’s riding elephants or petting dolphins, be wary of resorts offering guests the chance to get up close and personal with wild animals. Chances are they’re insufficiently handled and isolated from their natural habitat. “No one considers that dolphins belong in the ocean,” Dodds says. “Putting them in a pool and swimming with them is hugely cruel. But when we’re on holiday, we’re thinking, ‘Oh, this is so fun.’ We don’t take the next step and think about what it’s going to do to the animal.”

7. BOOK OFF-SEASON

Many resorts are open yearround — and booking a room during the low season is better for your bottom line and the place you’re visiting. “If you want to go to a resort,” Dodds advises, “go in November; it’s going to be half the price.” Plus, she adds, “the locals are going to be happy to have you when there’s not any crowds.”.

Whether it’s riding elephants or petting dolphins, be wary of resorts offering guests the chance to get up close and personal with wild animals.

Gauguin’s Polynesia

Steve Leland travels the world in style. Now, he’s sailing the South Pacific on m/s Paul Gauguin.

by Steve Leland

I was finishing up a month-long exploration of Indonesia when Porthole’s editor-in-chief, Bill Panoff, emailed me about the amazing cruise he had just experienced on m/s Paul Gauguin out of Tahiti. If Bill said it was great, I had to find a way to experience it myself.

My previous visit to the tropical paradise of French Polynesia

I’d thought was a once in a lifetime experience, but as I was already going to be “in the neighborhood” this opportunity was too convenient to pass up. I lined up my schedule with one of the ship’s special biannual itineraries sailing out of Fiji to Tonga and the Cook and Society Islands as the ship returned to its home port in Papeete, Tahiti. Count me in!

Paul Gauguin Cruises

Since its launch in 1997, the Paul Gauguin brand built its reputation with a single ship sailing among the islands of French Polynesia. When the ship was purchased by French luxury expedition cruise operator Ponant in 2019, that esteem only grew.

In spite of that late-90s inauguration, it would be a mistake to construe the ship as an older ship. Even then, as a smaller 330-passenger vessel, she was ahead of the times, with 70 percent of the spacious staterooms configured as balconied suites. Ponant’s updates have introduced new contemporary furnishings with a trendy color palette of turquoise and beige while at the same time retaining classic cruiseship ambience.

When combined with the attributes of the ship, the charm of the South Pacific summons pure magic. There is nothing more synonymous with the area than white-sand beaches and swaying palm trees … and you might also argue for those towering mountain peaks cloaked in deep green foliage and encircling the crystal-clear waters of picturesque lagoons. It’s exactly the vivid palette of colors one discovers in the paintings of the ship’s namesake, Paul Gauguin.

Fiji and Farther

Sailing from Lautoka, Fiji, the itinerary delves into authentic village culture with three Fijian ports of call. Legend has it that over 500 years ago, an eel granted the men of Beqa Island the gift of walking on fire in exchange for its life. In the first of many cultural experiences throughout the cruise, grass-skirted Fijian warriors reenact a ritual celebrating this ability to high step over hot, glowing embers.

The capital of Suva provides an opportunity to relive this island nation’s history at the Fiji Museum, spend a day at a tropical resort, hike to idyllic waterfalls, or zip-line through the dense forests. The following day’s port call to Savusavu completes the trilogy of Fijian islands, each with their own lifestyles, underwater sights, and jungle exploration.

70 percent of the spacious staterooms are configured as balconied suites.

The Paul Gauguin brand built its reputation with a single ship sailing among the islands of French Polynesia.

All images courtesy of PONANT/Paul Gauguin Cruises

Catching our breath with a day at sea after the sensory overload of Fiji’s indelible imagery, we awake the next morning weaving through the jigsaw puzzle of Tonga’s islands. This Polynesian kingdom consists of more than 170 islands, many uninhabited and blanketed in tropical rainforest, and home to a population of just over 170,000. A boat ride takes us through islet-dappled lagoons, letting us peek into secret caves carved into limestone formations, while land tours take in scenic vistas and explore the process of vanilla production.

Crossing the International Date Line on Day Six is a real déjà vu as we turn our clocks back 24 hours: Like magic, it’s yesterday all over again. The subsequent two-day interlude at sea grants opportunities to participate in craft classes, Polynesian dance classes, indulgent spa treatments, cooking demonstrations, and horizon-broadening enrichment seminars. Add in nightly entertainment and an endearing crew and you have everything you need to traverse the islands of Polynesia in style.

The timeless elegance of the ship’s Le Etoille dining

room makes savoring its international and regionally inspired cuisine extra special, while La Veranda restaurant brings new depth to specialty restaurant dining with creative French gastronomy.

Back to the Islands

Aitutaki, in the isolated Cook Islands, seems a stark departure; the green mountainous landscapes of Fiji and Tonga have given way to flatter atolls where unspoiled beaches are lapped by the gentle waves painted in every imaginable shade of green and blue. Lagoon cruises, treks to lookout points, and scooter explorations of the tiny island each add a new way of looking at what is yet to come as we sail onward, away from the Cook Islands and back through the mosaic of islands that make up French Polynesia.

The approach to Bora Bora at the crack of dawn is as majestic as it gets, with the iconic jagged peaks of Mt. Otemanu looming over the turquoise waters of the lagoon. Early-rising snorkelers and divers eagerly head out for a session with stingrays and sharks while the rest of

us opt for a brief boat ride to an exclusive beach site on one of the outlying motus. Paddle boards and kayaks normally available from the sports marina at the aft of the ship come along for our enjoyment.

There’s only one thing better than a day at the beach in French Polynesia and that’s TWO days at the beach. Serving up another day in paradise, Paul Gauguin anchors just off of Taha’a for a beach BBQ on the company’s private island. Swim or kayak in the crystalline waters, learn how to make palm-tree headbands, tie one on with a pareu demonstration, play badminton or volleyball,

and enjoy a cool drink from the floating bar. Lunch time arrives with fresh fish, pork chops, chicken kabobs, or burgers fresh off the grill. Then, back on board, it's Polynesian Night with a special themed menu, entertainment, and rousing celebration.

A fitting culmination of this 12 day journey of island discovery awaits as the ship arrives in beautiful Mo’orea. Magnificent views beckon from the summit of Belvedere Lookout, or, down at sea level, we can watch dolphins in their natural habitat, sail the island’s periphery aboard a catamaran, Jet Ski, or go off-road on an ATV. The island has it all!

Finally, our ship returns to its home port in Papeete, Tahiti, but will continue to play host to future cruise guests throughout the year with 7-, 10-, and 14day cruises in the Society Islands, the Marquesas, and the Cook Islands as the authentic charm of the South Pacific screams for discovery. If you’ve never been to this region, it’s time to break through the “maybe someday” barrier, stop dreaming, and start planning..

La Veranda restaurant brings new depth to specialty restaurant dining with creative French gastronomy.

Aitutaki

Le Etoille

St. John’s College, Cambridge

Punting along the River Cam in Cambridge, England, is a time-honored diversion, giving boaters a different perspective on the town's 25 bridges. This one, the famous Bridge of

Sighs, was designed by Henry Hutchinson in 1831, modeled after the even more famous Bridge of Sighs in Venice, Italy.

for some, feeling LEFT OUT lasts more than a moment.

We can change that.

We’ve all had moments where we’ve felt we didn’t belong. But for people who moved to this country, that feeling lasts more than a moment. Together, we can build a better community. Learn how at BelongingBeginsWithUs.org