Porthole Cruise and Travel, December 2024 by ppigroup

A WINTER PHOTO ESSAY FROM THE MEDITERRANEAN

12.2024

Vienna Wines A Tavern Tradition

Snow Trains Chilly yet Charming

Sporty St. Maarten Watery Wonderland

2024

Readers’ Choice Awards CRUISING’S CRÈME DE LA CRÈME

Just how luxurious can Regent Seven Seas Cruises be?

ECO-FRIENDLY THAILAND Tailor-made Travel Adventures

0C1 Prelim elephant copy.indd 1

10/30/24 2:19 PM

Silversea DPS antarctica copy.indd 2

10/30/24 7:47 AM

TO THE CURIOUS

Silversea DPS antarctica copy.indd 1

10/30/24 7:47 AM

A NEW WORLD OF CRUISING

SAILING FROM MIAMI | APRIL 2025

Discover more at msccruises.com

MSC World America DPS copy 2

10/30/24 7:48 AM

A WORLD-CLASS VACATION AWAITS Discover a world of beauty on a new ship class to cruise the Caribbean, designed for immersive and enriching experiences at sea. Where elegant European design meets American comfort, where cultures unite on a ship designed for the worldly, curious traveler. Journey on a ship with distinctive international style, powered by lower-emission fuel, and full of sophistication.

MSC World America DPS copy 3

10/30/24 7:48 AM

Caribbean beauty – Cunard style ®

Spectacular landscapes and colorful marine life. Crystal-clear water and warm sand beneath your toes. Centuries-old rum distilleries and ancient ruins. The Caribbean is brimming with unique delights, and you can experience them all on board Queen Elizabeth.® With new voyages embarking from vibrant Miami, discover Barbados, Saint Lucia, Jamaica, and beyond in signature Cunard® style.

PortholeAd-Spread-Nov2024.indd 1 Cunard Line spreadCB - PH254 copy.indd 4

10/30/24 7:50 AM

Caribbean voyages on Queen Elizabeth Roundtrip Miami

9 nights

12 nights

2025 Oct 28 Nov 18 Dec 9 Dec 30

2025 Oct 16 Nov 6 Nov 27 Dec 18

2026 Jan 20 Feb 10 Mar 3 Mar 24

2026 Jan 8 Jan 29 Feb 19 Mar 12 Apr 2

21-night voyages are also available. Visit Cunard.com/Caribbean to view more 2025 and 2026 voyages. © 2024 Carnival plc. Ships’ Registry: Bermuda. The Cunard logo and logotype and Queen Elizabeth are registered trademarks of Carnival plc, an English company trading as Cunard. All rights reserved in the United States and other countries.

Contact your Travel Advisor | Call (800) 728-6273 | Visit Cunard.com/Port

Cunard Line spreadCB - PH254 copy.indd 5

9/13/24 12:29 PM 10/30/24 7:50 AM

Crown Brilliant Collection

The Art of Sparkle E X C L U S I V E LY A T

Alaska • Amber Cove • Antigua • Aruba • Bahamas • Barbados • Belize • Bermuda • Cabo San Lucas Costa Maya • Cozumel • Curaçao • Grand Cayman • Grand Turk • Jamaica • Orlando • Puerto Vallarta Roatan • San Juan • Sawgrass Mills • St. Kitts • St. Lucia • St. Maarten • St. Thomas • Taino Bay • Tortola

DI COL Spread - PH252.indd 6

10/30/24 2:25 PM

DI COL Spread - PH252.indd 7

10/30/24 2:25 PM

PUBLISHER’S LETTER

DECEMBER 2024

Wishing you the Best You’ve picked the best of cruise, so why not enjoy it? One of you, picked at random, has even been lucky enough to win a free cruise for two on Oceania Cruises. But besides giving that person the good news — “You get to cruise!” — I’m always pleasantly surprised by the results of the voting. Not just the topline results, but the story that’s told further down the totals. A new surge of interest in the Great Lakes. A contingent of dedicated Scandinavian ferry fans. A decisive nod to Venice as a great city for shopping. Rising interest in boutique lines like Saga Cruises, Victoria Cruises, and Antarctica21. Everywhere, at every level, people are finding new ways to explore the world … and they’re eager to spread the word. Of course, that’s what Porthole’s mission is, too. In this issue, we’re spreading the word about luxury tall-ship sailing aboard Sea Cloud Spirit in our Day@Sea ship review on page 38. We’re clueing folks in to the real opulence behind Seven Seas Splendor and Seven Seas Grandeur on page 46. We’ve got stunning images from photographer Andrew Maclear touring a chilly, misty Mediterranean on page 52. Kevin Revolinski shows us Thailand’s top ecological attractions on page 60 and Elizabeth Warkentin introduces us to the old Austrian tradition of wine taverns on page 24. Curious about watersports on either side of the island of St. Maarten? Check out Hal Peat’s rundown on page 20. Want to ride the rails through snowy landscapes? Sample the best with Alex Darlington on page 28.

Every issue of this magazine is my favorite as soon as it comes out. But our year-end issue is always a special treat, because this is the one in which you, the readers, play a starring role. You’ve voted for your cruise and travel favorites — your favorite ships, your favorite onboard restaurants, your favorite destinations, and more.

It’s been an eventful year, and I hope you’ve got some great trips lined up for the holidays and beyond. If not, well, I hope our magazine serves as a gift guide for picking out your best vacation yet. Best wishes and bon voyage!

Bill Panoff Publisher, Porthole Cruise and Travel bpanoff@ppigroup.com

See You on Social ! Instagram.com/cruisetravelBP/ Twitter.com/cruisetravelBP Tiktok.com/@cruiseandtravelBP YouTube.com/@CruiseandTravelBP Linkedin.com/company/porthole-cruise-magazine

PORTHOLE CRUISE & TRAVEL

08 PUB LETTER copy 8

10/29/24 8:48 AM

AOV Atlas FP - PH254 copy.indd 9

10/30/24 7:51 AM

CONTRIBUTORS

DECEMBER 2024

BILL PANOFF

Publisher/Editor-in-Chief

LINDA DOUTHAT

Assoc. Publisher/Creative Director

GRANT BALFOUR Managing Editor

SKIP ANDERSON Art Director

SARA LINDA Proofreader

Judi Cuervo Judi began her freelance cruise writing in 1998 with Porthole Cruise Magazine where, as J.C. Travell, she authored the Jane Q. Cruiser and horoscope columns as well as regular cruise and ship reviews. A New York City native, her cruise writing has appeared in regional, national, Canadian, U.K., and Australian publications.

Andrew Maclear As a teenager, Andrew photographed many luminaries of the Swinging Sixties in London, then turned to screenwriting and latterly to the more leisurely pursuit of photographing cruise ships and their destinations. He still has and uses his original, all-manual Nikon F dating from 1968. Andrew lives in Spain.

John & Sandra Nowlan John and Sandra are veteran travel and food writers based Halifax, Nova Scotia. By ocean, river, and expedition ship they’ve traveled to all seven continents and about 120 countries. Before retirement, John was an Emmywinning public television producer while Sandra was a cookbook author and fisheries scientist with an MSc. from Cornell University.

Hal Peat

Elizabeth Warkentin

JUDI CUERVO, ALEX DARLINGTON, STEVE LELAND, ANDREW MACLEAR, JOHN AND SANDRA NOWLAN, HAL PEAT, KEVIN REVOLINSKI, ELIZABETH WARKENTIN Contributing Writers

ANDREW MACLEAR, HAL PEAT, UNSPLASH

Contributing Photographers

SALES OFFICES

Hal is an independent travel and lifestyle journalist who has covered destinations, history, events, and culture in the Caribbean and Latin America over the past 25 years for consumer online and print media internationally. He has lived in Jamaica, the Bahamas, and Europe, and currently resides in South Florida when not out and exploring more of the Caribbean.

Elizabeth, a freelance journalist and photographer based in Montreal, Québec, has contributed to Travel + Leisure, Smithsonian, Nat Geo, AFAR, BBC, The Guardian, and The Toronto Star, among others. She loves wildlife, nature, and swimming in the Mediterranean.

See You on Social !

Porthole Cruise/PPI Group HQ 1500 NW 62nd Street, Suite 403 Fort Lauderdale, FL 33309 e: sales@ppigroup.com p: (954) 377-7777 | f: (954) 271-0701 porthole.com | ppigroup.com For advertising information contact:

WILLIAM P. JORDAN III President bjordan@ppigroup.com

JULIE BOUCHNER

Account Manager jbouchner@ppigroup.com

BILL PANOFF CEO/Chairman WILLIAM P. JORDAN III President AUDREY BALBIERS-PANOFF Chief Operating Officer PIERO VITALE Chief Financial Officer LINDA DOUTHAT SVP, Publishing SOREN DOMLESKY Director of Technology JULIE BOUCHNER Digital & Social Media Manager

DECEMBER 2024 ISSUE 254

Facebook.com/PortholeCruise

Tiktok.com/@PortholeCruise8

Instagram.com/PortholeCruise

LinkedIn.com/porthole-cruise-magazine

Twitter.com/PortholeCruise

YouTube.com/PortholeCruise

Cover image:

An elephant emerges from the jungle on a misty morning in Thailand, where humans care for the gentle giants at havens like Elephant Nature Park. Photo by narong - stock.adobe.com

Porthole Cruise and Travel Magazine ©2024 Porthole Magazine, Inc. ISSN: 1070-9479 All rights reserved. Reproduction, either in whole or in part, is forbidden without written permission from the publisher. The magazine assumes no responsibility for the safekeeping or return of unsolicited manuscripts, photography, artwork, or other material. Porthole Cruise and Travel Magazine is published six times a year by Porthole Magazine, Inc. It is distributed on a paid basis to subscribers worldwide, including cruisegoers and cruise industry executives. It also is distributed on a controlled-circulation basis. Porthole Magazine Inc. shall not be held liable for claims made in advertisements. Address for all editorial and advertising correspondence: Porthole Cruise and Travel Magazine, 1500 West Cypress Creek Road, Suite 403, Ft. Lauderdale, FL 33309. Phone: (954) 377-7777. Email: bpanoff@ppigroup.com. Visit our website: porthole.com. To subscribe: Call toll-free (800) 776-PORT 8:30 a.m.- 5 p.m., Eastern time; email us at subscription@porthole.com; or write to Porthole Cruise and Travel Magazine, 1500 NW 62nd Street, Suite 403, Fort Lauderdale, FL 33309, USA. Subscription rates: 1-year digital subscription (6 issues) $19.99; 2-year subscription (12 issues) USA: $24.99. Florida residents, please add 7% sales tax. To make address changes or ask questions about your current subscription, call toll-free (800) 776-PORT or email subscription@porthole.com.

PORTHOLE CRUISE & TRAVEL

10 CONTRIBS.indd 10

10/30/24 2:21 PM

THE PERFECT CRUISE DOCKS AT OUR ISLANDS. Stop at any of our ports to experience unique culture, turquoise waters, and picturesque towns with endless shopping and attractions. Come experience the best the Caribbean has to offer.

St.

J O H N

St.

C R O I X

St.

T H O M A S

VISITUSVI.COM

USVI FP copy.indd 11

10/30/24 7:52 AM

CONTENTS DECEMBER 2024

Day@Sea Sea Cloud Spirit Sea Cloud Spirit cruises in timeless style.

by Judi Cuervo

Caviar for Breakfast A discreet peek at an ultra-luxury experience on Regent Seven Seas Cruises Left: Andrew Maclear Right clockwise from top: Michael-G-Renz / Unsplash, Weinegeramnussberg, Wind Adventures, pbombaert - stock.adobe.com, Durango & Silverton Railroad / Anthony D’Amato, IKEA

by John and Sandra Nowlan

Windstar’s Winter Riviera Chase away the January blues on Star Legend.

by Andrew Maclear

12Marseille, France

12-13 TOC-features copy 12

10/29/24 8:51 AM

08 Publisher’s Letter 10 Contributors PLANET PLAYGROUND

14 Style & Design Holiday gift guide

20 Shore Leave St. Maarten’s aquatic options

satisfy every offshore interest. by Hal Peat

24 Wine & Dine Vienna’s wine taverns have their own special culture. by Elizabeth Warkentin

28 Roads & Rails North America’s best railway journeys

14 /the list

have snow on the scenery. by Alex Darlington

32 Readers’ Choice Awards

Left: Andrew Maclear Right clockwise from top: Michael-G-Renz / Unsplash, Weinegeramnussberg, Wind Adventures, pbombaert - stock.adobe.com, Durango & Silverton Railroad / Anthony D’Amato, IKEA

Vienna

You picked the best for 2024!

BEST LIFE

60 Good Vibes

News

Here’s how travel is building a better tomorrow. by Alex Darlington

Getting Around

Environmentally conscious tourism delivers a whole new way to enjoy Southeast Asia. by Kevin Revolinski

65 Set-Jetting What famous movies shot scenes here?

68 Leland & Sea

This issue, he’s on two very different small-ship cruises by Steve Leland

72 #CruiseForGood Voluntourism with IVHQ

12-13 TOC-features copy 13

10/29/24 8:51 AM

STYLE & DESIGN

PLANET PLAYGROUND

CHRISTMAS 2024

the

Porthole’s ultimate style & design gift guide

Affection Nothing brings joy like a new member of the family — and ASPCA research shows that adopting a shelter pet for the holidays (once you’re ready to share the love) actually works out best for the animals and their new humans.

Competition If you’ve wondered what all the pickleball hype is about — or you’re level — take a swing at the Eden Pickleball Set by Jonathan Adler, with eye-catching serpent designs and comfortable leather grips.

Petra Richli - stock.adobe.com, Jonathan Adler

ready to take your game to the next

PORTHOLE CRUISE & TRAVEL

14-16-18 STYLE & DESIGN _wish list copy 14

10/29/24 8:52 AM

FEEL THE

Rush

It’s the triumph of going further than ever before, when soaring above the rainforest on a zipline or summiting a dormant volcano. The thrill of a heart-stopping ATV ride or breezy catamaran cruise, with the wind in your hair and adventure on the horizon. You’ll feel it all—and then some—right here in St. Kitts.

VISITSTKITTS.COM

St Kitts Tourism Authority - PH254 copy.indd 15

10/30/24 7:53 AM

STYLE & DESIGN

PLANET PLAYGROUND

To Your Health

What more luxurious way to toast the New Year than with Baccarat’s Bubble Champagne Flute Box Set? You and an exclusive group of friends can each express your individuality with this sampler of six handcrafted lead-crystal flutes, each from a different family of Baccarat designs. Cheers!

Give Time Tag Heuer crafts functional, elegant timepieces. The Connected Calibre E4 x Oracle Red Bull Racing watch combines a titanium body and two-material strap with a sturdy smartwatch capable of displaying four distinct, exclusive watch faces. 16

Away’s Transit Leather Backpack is ready for adventure: a main compartment that fits a 16-inch laptop and clothes; smaller pockets for chargers, passports, and boarding passes; and a soft, pebbled exterior with a matching luggage tag.

Clockwise from top: Neiman Marcus, Away Travel, Tag Heuer

A “Go” Bag

PORTHOLE CRUISE & TRAVEL

14-16-18 STYLE & DESIGN _wish list copy 16

10/29/24 8:52 AM

CRUISE CAPITAL OF THE WORLD

WE LOVE CRUISING!

PortMiami.biz #WeLoveCruising

PortMiami - PH254 copy.indd 17

10/30/24 8:18 AM

STYLE & DESIGN

PLANET PLAYGROUND

Make the Mix Master martinis, mojitos, and margaritas (or just order with more savoir faire) with advice from the international bartenders behind The New York Times Essential Book of Cocktails.

A Better Bottle Maison Balzac, the homeware studio founded in Australia by a French designer, aims at making everyday life quirkier and more beautiful. Their Bordeaux Wine Decanter could be filled with water or orange juice … but the delicate cluster of glass grapes gracing the stopper gives a clue to what else you might pour.

A Snail Plate? Well, why not? Maison Balzac embraces the snail with L’Escargot Dinner Plates, 10-inch-wide pure porcelain dishes baked at high temperatures for durability and adorned with the quizzical spiral of a curious mollusk peeking out of its shell.

Blessed Rest Sleep like a baby with the reassuring comfort of Bearaby’s Red Weighted Blanket, scientifically proven to reduce stress. They’re also Fairtrade certified and made from eco-safe eucalyptus fibers, so there’s really nothing to worry about. Just close your eyes. Shh.

Ikea, the Swedish superstore known for functional, flat-packed furnishings, has made a mission of social entrepreneurship. The Mävinn Collection includes mats, baskets, pouches, and outwear woven by Indian artisans. The 100-percent cotton embroidered bathrobe looks beautiful, feels heavenly, and creates jobs for skilled textile artists at the ethically minded business Rangsutra.

Clockwise from top right: Maison Balzac (x2), IKEA, Bearaby, NYTimes

Robed in Wisdom

PORTHOLE CRUISE & TRAVEL

14-16-18 STYLE & DESIGN _wish list copy 18

10/29/24 8:52 AM

Available at Diamonds International, Tanzanite International and Luxury of Time DiamondsInternational.com

DI Safi Kilima FP - PH248 copy.indd 19

10/30/24 2:28 PM

SHORE LEAVE

Water Sport Island Whether you call it Sint Maarten or Saint-Martin … above and below the waterline … this island has fine aquatic options for every offshore interest.

by Hal Peat

Wingfoiling

PORTHOLE CRUISE & TRAVEL

20-23 SHORE LEAVE- SXM water sports copy 20

10/29/24 8:54 AM

PLANET PLAYGROUND

or the traveler seeking out aquatic interests to experience, the dual Dutch and French island of Sint Maarten/Saint-Martin stands out in this part of the Caribbean for its diverse range of watersports. That wide spectrum of activities on and below the water here is partly due to the island's unusual coastal formation of sheltered bays and lagoons, not to mention its world-class marinas. Overlooking the Atlantic on its eastern side and the calmer Caribbean seas on its western flank, the coastline is also ideal for anything from leisurely sailboat and catamaran excursions to highenergy competitive sailing events — and then also closer to shore or inland, more opportunities for kayaking, windsurfing, and other extreme sport.

Left: Wind Adventures Right clockwise from top: Wind Adventures, pbombaert - stock.adobe.com, Nicola - stock.adobe.com

NEAR-SHORE AQUATIC ADVENTURES With its variety of lagoon access and coastal conditions, no surprise that enterprising operators across the island nowadays provide well-tailored menus of aquatic day adventures to suit any interest. One option that will appeal to those arriving on the Dutch side of the island is Tri-Sport, based right on Simpson Bay. They’ve got longtime local expertise in a variety of activities on both lagoon and offshore stretches. An outing with Tri-Sport can include a kayak/ snorkel session suitable for beginners, that begins with a paddle out from Simpson Bay towards open seas and over to the next bay. The pace is leisurely, with plenty of views of neighboring islands. At the destination

Orient Beach

Orient Bay itself is a stunning beach known for its breezes and crystalclear waters — ideal conditions for any aquatic outing. At the destination point, everyone gets into snorkel gear for some exploration of the nearby caverns and corals teeming with fish.

Tintamare Island

point, everyone gets into snorkel gear for some exploration of the nearby caverns and corals teeming with fish — all accompanied by the guide. After just under an hour, head back to Kim Sha Beach by kayak for a refreshing beverage. The entire tour takes less than half a day. For a dedicated kayak-only outing, travelers can try the company's Simpson Bay lagoon tour that takes you around this well-preserved lagoon while learning about its ecosystem and some of the unusual animals residing here. For those confident on their own, there is also an option to kayak the lagoon individually — Tri-Sport will provide a map, bottle of water, and some recommendations on key points to reach within this large saltwater enclosure.

Also located here on the Dutch side of the island is Aqua Mania Adventures, with a variety of aquatic activities that begin from the waterfronts at both Simpson Bay Resort and Divi Little Bay Resort. This operator stands out as a longtime expert in fully equipped multi-hull and catamaran touring for day visitors. Their “catamaran daysail around St. Maarten” launches from Simpson Bay for a day-long outing to points along the coast like Creole Rock and Tintamare Island, which afford ideal snorkeling sessions and views of the area's sea turtles. Other specialized tours include the wide selection available at Divi Little Bay, where participants can check in at the beachside booth for snorkel gear, scuba diving, bodyboards, Jet Skis, paddleboards, and of course kayaks.

PORTHOLE CRUISE & TRAVEL

20-23 SHORE LEAVE- SXM water sports copy 21

10/29/24 8:54 AM

SHORE LEAVE

Over on the French side of the island, there are other aquatic activities to take advantage of, mainly in the region of the capital of Marigot. You can find daily offshore action with Wind Adventures, located along Orient Bay. They’re proficient in several specialized water sports such as Hobie cat, sea kayaking, kiteboarding, wingfoiling, stand-up paddleboarding, surfing, and snorkeling among others. Orient Bay itself is a stunning beach known for its breezes and crystal-clear waters — ideal conditions for any aquatic outing. How can this play out on a typical day here? With the Hobie-cat experience, for instance, you might choose to sail on your own to Pinel Island for the day, or the wind-adventures instructor will take you over to Pinel (no previous experience needed) in a 20-minute crossing, or, alternatively, take your Hobie cat over to to Tintamare Island on a 3-hour trip. Then there’s the sea kayak outing to offshore points such as Green Cay Island or Pinel Island again — with a 15-minute crossing to Green Cay, and 30 minutes to Pinel Island. For those into some more extreme action just off the shore at Orient Beach, there are also kiteboarding or wingfoiling lessons with friendly pro instructors. For those with time to indulge in a half- or full-day excursion to the small offshore islands, climb aboard a large Lagoon catamaran or Axopar motorboat for plenty of time around Tintamare Island, or Creole Rock where you may meet the whales in winter.

Left clockwise from top: Wind Adventures, Hal Peat, forcdan - stock.adobe.com Right clockwise from top: pbombaert - stock.adobe.com, Aqua Mania, Heineken Regatta / Laurens Morel / saltycolors.com (x4)

Kayaking at Simpson Bay Lagoon

PORTHOLE CRUISE & TRAVEL

20-23 SHORE LEAVE- SXM water sports copy 22

10/29/24 8:54 AM

PLANET PLAYGROUND

If the islets themselves are the draw for you, opt for a three-island tour of Tintamare, Pinel, and Green Cay. Wind Adventures has designed the routes, provides the craft and the guide or instructor, all with an eye to make each experience the ideal, well-tailored portal to the waters off and beyond Orient Bay.

FINE COASTAL WINDS — AND FINE FISHING The year-round mild climate and favorable offshore waters also make Sint Maarten/Saint-Martin an ideal base for sail-charter operators at the many marinas and landings along its coastline.

Little Bay

Usually, these outfitters will allow the traveler with just limited time to select from a range of schedules, itineraries, and types or models of sailboats — either trusting your own navigating or opting instead for a fully-crewed yacht. You’ll find bases for such operators either at Marigot or Simpson Bay, but at either port, you’re able to tailor your options to fit easily within the onshore schedule of your own cruise to this island. Last, but hardly least, are the wellestablished annual events on the waters surrounding the island to consider — of course, timing your schedule right for participation or just viewing. One of the best known is the annual Heineken Regatta, which brings out the world’s top-tier sailors in some four days of intense boat races around the island. You can watch from the shore — or from key points offshore yourself with savvy boat-rental outfitters. And for the traveler who is up for a deeper catch offshore, there is the annual St. Martin Billfish Tournament. It’s open to all levels of angler experience and takes place in the Marigot area each June. For the competitive-minded angler, this is the ideal opportunity to try your hand and rod for a big catch — be it blue marlin, wahoo, or mahi-mahi, all at home here within this island's fine, translucent waters. The St. Maarten Heineken Regatta is the largest sailing race in the Caribbean. Every spring since 1980, the world's fastest wind-powered boats have come to this island to set new records in perfect conditions.

For more general, operator or annual information, check the current calendars and categories of the dual island's two official tourism sites: Sint Maarten — Sint Maarten Tourist Bureau (www.vacationstmaarten.com) Saint-Martin — Marigot Tourist Office (www.st-martin.org)

Heineken Regatta

20-23 SHORE LEAVE- SXM water sports copy 23

PORTHOLE CRUISE & TRAVEL

10/29/24 8:54 AM

WINE & DINE

PLANET PLAYGROUND

Here’s to the Heurigen! Vienna’s wine taverns have their own special culture

Wolfgang - stock.adobe.com

by Elizabeth Warkentin

PORTHOLE CRUISE & TRAVEL

24-27 WINE & DINE - vienna wine bars copy 24

10/29/24 8:58 AM

Blue Gallery - PH254 copy.indd 25

10/30/24 8:19 AM

WINE & DINE

A grapevine wreath is the traditional sign of Austria’s rustic wine taverns, where new wines are poured with Old World hospitality.

ahlzeit!,” said our Viennese hosts while they handed out glasses of cloudy liquid as we entered the pub’s garden. It was early October and we were at Schreiberhaus, a heuriger, or “rustic wine tavern,” to celebrate the heuriger, which also means “this year’s vintage.” As we stood in the picturesque garden overlooking the heuriger’s vineyards in the Vienna Hills, I learned that the cloudy liquid is called sturm. It’s the recently pressed juice of grapes that is only beginning to ferment. According to Caroline Derler, a food and wine expert based in Vienna, since “it’s not yet wine, we say, ‘mahlzeit’, literally ‘meal time.’ Otherwise [with any other type of wine or alcohol] it’s always ‘prost.’”

DEEP ROOTS

Viticulture is not new to Vienna. In fact, grapes were cultivated here as early as 1132 CE. Viennese winetavern culture was born in the 16th century and only grew more popular after 1784, when an imperial edict granted Austrian vintners permission to sell their wine and food directly to consumers. Anyone who lived in Vienna during this period would likely have run into musical luminaries like Beethoven, who not only frequented heurigen but lived beside one. In the late 20th century, these ancestral, family-owned and -run establishments came to be seen as

the preserve of the senior crowd, places where groups of old fogeys would sing traditional Viennese songs accompanied by live music. This still happens. But in recent years, heurigen have been experiencing a renaissance among 20- and 30-somethings. “Everyone goes to heurigen,” says Derler. “Families. Hipsters. They’re cheap and casual, so they appeal to the younger crowd. We celebrate birthdays and important occasions there. I go with my friends. We take our daughter and meet up with other friends with young kids. We sit outside among the vineyards. Some heurigen have play areas, so the kids have fun.” So deeply entrenched in Viennese culture are heurigen, that in 2019 UNESCO inscribed them as part of the world’s intangible cultural heritage.

FERTILE CITY

Interestingly, the Austrian capital is the only major European city with a designated wine-growing area within its city limits. This means that you can get there by public transit … an added bonus, since there’s no need for a designated driver after a few too many glasses of grüner veltliner. The Vienna Hills count more than 1,730 acres of vines, 630 wine producers, and 180 wine taverns

Schreiberhaus

I learned that the cloudy liquid is called sturm. It’s the recently pressed juice of grapes that is only beginning to ferment. Left clockwise from top left: leopold - stock.adobe.com, Schreiberhaus, mdworschak - stock.adobe.com Right clockwise from top left: pisk78 - stock.adobe.com, A. Karnholz - stock.adobe.com, Weinegeramnussberg

“

PORTHOLE CRUISE & TRAVEL

24-27 WINE & DINE - vienna wine bars copy 26

10/29/24 8:58 AM

PLANET PLAYGROUND ranging from the traditional and touristy to the more innovative, now helmed by the younger generation. Some have restaurant licenses and are open yearround while others serve only cold food and are permitted to carry only their own wine. And, says Derler, some are farm-based while others are more commercial. Over at the 200-year-old Schreiberhaus, the young woman at the helm “is doing a lot of new stuff these days,” Derler says. Her buffet, for one, features a

good range of salads and vegetarian and vegan versions of traditional dishes, along with the usual breads and spreads, wiener schnitzel, and wurst. She also hosts various events. Now, seated at big wooden tables in a cozy private dining room, a large group of us enjoyed the tavern fare. During the meal, we also sampled several white wines, among them local and house rieslings, chardonnays, and the quintessentially Austrian grüner veltliner. Soon, a merry accordionist-and-singer duo entered the room

to treat us to a private sing-along performance. I thought we were having a grand old time, until I got up for dessert. From upstairs, I could hear boisterous singing and clapping. I decided to investigate. About 50 Austrian sexagenarians sat at tables set up in a U shape … for dancing. As a different pair of musicians played inside the U, the patrons sang Viennese songs, their voices raw from overuse, their feet stomping so loudly I thought they might burst through the floor’s wooden planks to the ceiling below.

TOURING THE TAVERNS

Derler, who offers bespoke Austrian wine experiences, says Schreiberhaus happens to be one of the more touristy heurigen. She loves “to take tourists off the beaten track,” preferring the smaller, lesser-known spots, including pop-up heurigen. Her favorite period is May to October, when the weather is nice and you can sit outside, among the vineyards.

HERE ARE HER TOP FIVE RECOMMENDATIONS:

1. A winery and heuriger with a sleek, contemporary decor, WEINGUT CHRIST serves authentic

and delicious homemade dishes, says Derler.

Left clockwise from top left: leopold - stock.adobe.com, Schreiberhaus, mdworschak - stock.adobe.com Right clockwise from top left: pisk78 - stock.adobe.com, A. Karnholz - stock.adobe.com, Weinegeramnussberg

2. WIENINGER AM NUSSBERG makes biodynamic wines and serves cold, including vegetarian,

delicacies from top local producers. From the outdoor terrace, it’s got the “best view of the city”, Derler says. 3. FUCHS STEINKLAMMER is “a classic in Vienna’s southern wine region of Mauer”, Derler says. They also offer comfortable, pension-style accommodations. 4. Former art-director-turned-vintner Jutta Ambrositsch and her husband, Marco Kalchbrenner, produce wines using low-intervention, low-tech methods. A few times a year, Ambrositsch rents out a space to host what she calls her “BUSCHENSCHANK-IN-RESIDENCE.” (A buschenschank, named for a buschen, or “bunch of grapes,” is another name for a heuriger.) Hers “is a contemporary version of a buschenschank,” according to Derler. Her muchanticipated events are attended by loyal devotees, oenophiles who aren’t fans of more mainstream heurigen. Check the website for dates. 5. Founded in 1996 by a journalist with a passion for wine and gastronomy, WEINGUT WAILAND offers a great view over the city as well as a play area for kids. Open from March to November.

AND ONE MORE, FOR FUN: Wieninger am Nussberg

Bonus! A popular, definitely touristy, traditional heuriger, MAYER AM PFARRPLATZ is also famous for being home to Ludwig van Beethoven, who lived next door. It’s where the tortured composer wrote his legendary Ninth Symphony.

PORTHOLE CRUISE & TRAVEL

24-27 WINE & DINE - vienna wine bars copy 27

10/29/24 8:58 AM

ROADS & RAILS

PLANET PLAYGROUND

The Winter Trains North America’s best railway journeys have snow on the scenery.

Left: Durango & Silverton Railroad / Anthony D’Amato Right clockwise from top: Amtrak, Kevin Bates - stock.adobe.com, Wangkun Jia - stock.adobe.com, karagrubis - stock.adobe.com

by Alex Darlington

Cascade Canyon Winter Train 28

PORTHOLE CRUISE & TRAVEL

28-31 ROADS & RAILS- winter trains copy 28

10/29/24 8:59 AM

PLANET PLAYGROUND

WINTER can put the fun of travel on ice … for some. Frozen roads make going by car inconvenient and downright dangerous. Flights can be overcrowded. And hiking — even in delightfully scenic places — can lose its joy fast when your teeth are chattering. One perfect remedy: The rails! What can be more exciting than seeing some of North America’s most beautiful places from the warmth and comfort of a luxurious train? Here are 10 of the greatest rail trips you can book this winter. California Zephyr in Denver

9 Left: Durango & Silverton Railroad / Anthony D’Amato Right clockwise from top: Amtrak, Kevin Bates - stock.adobe.com, Wangkun Jia - stock.adobe.com, karagrubis - stock.adobe.com

CALIFORNIA ZEPHYR Amtrak’s California Zephyr reveals the stunning variety of America’s topography. It leaves from Chicago and takes you on a 51-hour ride through the Great Plains and the

Animas River, Colorado

American Rockies to San Francisco. It runs all year long, but

CASCADE CANYON WINTER TRAIN

In summer, the San Juan National Forest is renowned for its challenging hiking trails. But you can enjoy its magic in the colder months, too. Durango & Silverton’s Cascade Canyon Winter Train departs from Durango, Colorado, and takes you on a five-plus-hour trip around the Cascade Canyon rim alongside the Animas River. There’s history here, too. Abandoned mines left over from the gold rush days can still be seen in the gorgeous mountain landscape. The train runs from November through May.

you might want to go in November when the

Montréal

first snows begin to fall.

The Adirondack

Adirondack Mountains

America and Canada can be seen at their best on this 10-hour rail journey that starts in bustling New York City and goes through the snow-capped Adirondack Mountains, over the Canadian border, and into Montreal. Service was down for improvements for a while but Amtrak has it back up and better than ever as of September 2024.

PORTHOLE CRUISE & TRAVEL

28-31 ROADS & RAILS- winter trains copy 29

10/29/24 8:59 AM

ROADS & RAILS

NAPA VALLEY WINE TRAIN

Experience the Napa Valley wine country in style on this 36-hour roundtrip train ride from downtown Napa to St. Helena. You can sip some of America’s best wines while watching the beautiful vineyards from your window. Or, in November and December, you can book The Santa Train, which features hot cocoa instead of wine … AND, on this one, you’ll get to meet Santa himself. Napa Valley Wine Train dining car

Full spread, clockwise from top: Napa Valley Wine Train (x2), Jason Yoder - stock.adobe.com (x2), rilueda - stock.adobe.com, Jacob - stock.adobe.com, Fairmont Chateau, Alaska Railroad, Adam - stock.adoble. com

5 THE CANADIAN Experience the wonder of the Canadian Rocky Mountains on VIA Rail’s mind-blowing route from Vancouver to Banff, Alberta, through Jasper National Park. There’s a stop-over in Maligne Canyon (the deepest in the Rockies), and you can also visit Lake Louise’s Ice Castle during

the Ice Magic Festival. Once

AURORA WINTER TRAIN

This unforgettable Alaska Railroad trip takes you from Anchorage to Fairbanks, where you’ll get a panoramic view of the Alaskan wilderness. You’ll see frozen lakes and majestic mountains including Denali, North America’s highest peak. You may also spot regional wildlife like moose, caribou, and bears. But be aware that between December and January, you can only go on Saturdays.

in Banff, you can enjoy a

Multnomah Falls, Columbia River Gorge

relaxing soak in the famous natural hot springs.

Fairmont Chateau, Lake Loiuse

THE EMPIRE BUILDER This fantastic two-day ride takes you from Chicago to Seattle through some of the most spectacular scenery in North America — especially when the weather turns icy. You’ll pass Montana’s astonishing Glacier National Park, the Columbia River Gorge, and Mount Hood in Oregon. The adventure runs daily all year long.

PORTHOLE CRUISE & TRAVEL

28-31 ROADS & RAILS- winter trains copy 30

10/29/24 8:59 AM

PLANET PLAYGROUND

Winter Escape to the Grand Canyon

The Grand Canyon is awe-inspiring all year long. But few people think of seeing it in the dead of winter. That’s the genius of Vacation by Rail’s round-trip train ride that carries you from Chicago to Flagstaff on Amtrak’s Southwest Chief, then transfers you to the historic Grand Canyon Railway. You’ll see firsthand why the 250-million-year-old geological phenomenon is considered one of the Seven Natural Wonders of the World. Then the train will return you to the Windy City with a memory you’ll

treasure for the rest of your life.

The Winter Park Express Amtrak’s ski train through Colorado only runs from Friday to Sunday between January and March. But it’s worth adjusting your schedule to find the time. You board at Denver’s Union Station and travel in comfort over mountains and through carved-in-rock tunnels to Winter Park Resort. Once there, you can ski or just relax for the weekend — or even a full week. Tip: For the best views, try to get a seat in the sightseer lounge.

2 WINTER DISCOVERY Another wonderful trip through the Canadian Rockies. This Amtrak route leaves from Seattle and carries you north through the snow-clad Jasper National Park with stops in Vancouver, Banff, and Calgary. The journey also features a wildlife-watching tour and a ski

Winter Park ski area

gondola ride up Alberta’s Sulphur Mountain.

PORTHOLE CRUISE & TRAVEL

28-31 ROADS & RAILS- winter trains copy 31

10/29/24 8:59 AM

The

2024

Readers’ Choice Awards { Clockwise from top left: Norwegian Cruise Line, Explora Journeys, Cunard

Here you have them ... your picks for the very best in the world of cruise! Porthole readers came out in droves to vote for the best ships, the best onboard amenities, and the best destinations around the world. Did your favorite cruise director get a mention? Did the beach of your dreams top the list of Caribbean port calls? Is that very special river cruise operator winning the respect of the rest of the cruise world? We’ve got the answers here, after totaling up every ballot cast in this year’s competition. Best of all, you can see what answers surprise you in the categories you care about, from fitness facilities to specialty cocktails, from Alaskan adventures to world cruises. Check out who’s left your fellow cruisers impressed ... and see what might inspire your next great vacation. And as always, thanks for voting!

32-37 RCA copy.indd 32

10/30/24 2:23 PM

zzzz

Best Ocean Ship, Norwegian Encore, in Alaska

Clockwise from top left: Norwegian Cruise Line, Explora Journeys, Cunard

FLOAT your BOAT

Best Service, Explora Journeys, in Explora I’s lobby bar

Best Ocean Ship Norwegian Encore, Norwegian Cruise Line

Best River Ship

Best Cruise Line Private Island

Royal Caribbean International

Ocean Cay MSC Marine Reserve, MSC Cruises

Best Cruise Line for Solo Travelers

Viking Alruna, Viking River Cruises

Norwegian Cruise Line

Best Luxury Ship

Most Romantic Cruise Line

Marina, Oceania Cruises

Windstar Cruises

Best Expedition Ship

Best Eco-Friendly Cruise Line

Best Service

MSC Cruises

Explora Journeys

Endeavour II, Lindblad ExpeditionsNational Geographic

Best World Cruise, Cunard, aboard Queen Anne

Best Multigenerational/ Family Cruise Line

Best World Cruise Cunard

Best Onboard Activities Royal Caribbean International

Best Shore Excursions

Best Accommodations

Best Cruise Line Value-for-the-Money

MSC Cruises

Seabourn Cruise Line

Carnival Cruise Line

Best Antarctic Cruise

Best Onboard Enrichment

Best Cruise Line for Teens

Ponant

Crystal Cruises

Royal Caribbean International 33

32-37 RCA copy.indd 33

10/30/24 2:23 PM

{

ALL ABOARD

Best Main Dining Room Cuisine Oceania Cruises

Best Specialty Restaurant

Best Children’s Programs Disney Cruise Line

Best Cruise Ship Entertainment

Compass Rose, Regent Seven Seas Cruises

MSC Cruises

Best Casino

Best Theme Cruises

Norwegian Cruise Line

Best Spa Facilities

Best Signature Cocktail

Norwegian Cruise Line

Mango Tango, Norwegian Cruise Line

Best Wellness Facilities

Best Specialty Restaurant, Compass Rose, Regent Seven Seas Cruises

Best Cruise Director

Best Fitness Facilities

Giuseppe Moschella, Celebrity Cruises

Virgin Voyages

Best Onboard Technology

Best Onboard Shopping

Princess Cruises

Celebrity Cruises

Best Ship Application

Best Facilities for Guests with Disabilities

Virgin Voyages

Holland America Line

Best Nightlife Royal Caribbean International

Best Spa Facilities, Norwegian Cruise Line, including Norwegian Breakaway’s Salt Room

Best Main Dining Room Cuisine, Oceania Cruises

Best Cruise Ship Entertainment, MSC Cruises, like MSC Euribia’s Carousel Lounge

Clockwise from top left: Regent Seven Seas Cruises, MSC Cruises, Oceania Cruises, Norwegian Cruise Line

Celebrity Cruises

32-37 RCA copy.indd 34

10/30/24 2:23 PM

This exciting new travel series is now streaming on Amazon Prime, but you can watch from wherever you are!

Porthole PHCT-Show FP - PH254 copy.indd 35

10/30/24 8:20 AM

zzzz

WE’VE GOT A WINNER!

Best Caribbean Beach Port

Best Northern Europe/ Baltics Cruise Destination

Grand Cayman

Oslo, Norway

Best Alaska Cruise Destination

Best Mediterranean Cruise Destination

Icy Strait Point

Istanbul, Turkey

Best European River Cruise Destination

Best Canada/New England Cruise Destination

Best Asia/Pacific Rim Cruise Destination

Budapest (Danube)

Québec City

Tokyo, Japan

Best American River/ Great Lakes Port

Best Hawaii Cruise Destination

Best South Pacific Cruise Destination

Niagara Falls (Port Colborne)

Honolulu

Tahiti (Papeete)

Best Asian River Cruise Destination

Best Mexico Cruise Destination

Best Middle East Cruise Destination

Ho Chi Minh City (Mekong)

Costa Maya

Dubai

Best Caribbean Cruise Destination

Best Central America Cruise Destination

Best Africa Indian Ocean Cruise Destination

USVI

Puerto Quetzal, Guatemala

Cape Town, South Africa

Best Caribbean Shopping Port

Best South America Cruise Destination

Best Australia/New Zealand Cruise Destination

Sint Maarten/Saint-Martin

Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

Sydney, Australia

Best Mediterranean Cruise Destination, Istanbul, Turkey

HOT SPOTS

and

COOL PLACES

Best Hawaii Cruise Destination, Honolulu

Congrats, mier! r o C . r M

Top to bottom: Luciano Mortula-LGM - stock.adobe.com, SCStock - stock.adobe.com

Lawrence Cormier of San Jose, California, was the lucky voter whose name was picked at random to win an 8-day cruise for two on Oceania Cruises. He says, “My wife and I have made 48 cruises, as many on rivers as on oceans. We’ve traveled to every continent on Earth, and the best thing about cruising is that you go anywhere, but you only have to unpack once!” We couldn’t agree more, Mr. Cormier. Hope you enjoy your Oceania cruise, and your next issue of Porthole Cruise and Travel!

32-37 RCA copy.indd 36

10/30/24 2:23 PM

discover AL ASK A Inside Passage

Explore wild and wonderful Alaska with Oceania Cruises, the only cruise line

THE FINEST CUISINE AT SEA®

AWARD-WINNING ITINER ARIES

experience aboard Riviera as we take you to marquee sights and off-the-

SMALL SHIP LUXURY

beaten-path destinations to experience the breathtaking scenery, fascinating wildlife and intriguing cultural encounters unique to this corner of the world. There’s no better time to plan your Alaska voyage with Oceania Cruises.

CALL 855-OCEANIA (855- 623-2642) | VISIT OCEANIACRUISES.COM | CONTAC T YOUR TR AVEL ADVISOR

Oceania RCA - PH254.indd 37

10/30/24 8:21 AM

Sea Cloud Cruises

D AY @ SEA

38-45 FEATURE - DAY@SEA- SeaCloudSpirit copy 38

10/29/24 9:01 AM

SHE’LL PUT THE WIND IN YOUR SAILS Sea Cloud Spirit cruises in timeless style. by Judi Cuervo

38-45 FEATURE - DAY@SEA- SeaCloudSpirit copy 39

10/29/24 9:01 AM

Sea Cloud II, Sea Cloud Spirit and Sea Cloud

Unlike the automatic sails that adorn other sailing ships in the cruise industry, the billowing sails above me are set by hand just as they were centuries ago.

YESTERDAY…AND TODAY Launched in 2021, the three-mast, full-rigged, five-deck Sea Cloud Spirit is, indeed, an anomaly in today’s world of cruising. This 453-foot marvel captures the days of yore while at the same time incorporating modern extravagances like opulent balcony cabins, a lavish wellness and spa area, a swimming platform, a well-equipped oceanview fitness center, and the most sophisticated navigational technology (which guests can see for themselves, thanks to Sea Cloud Spirit’s “open bridge” policy). Sea Cloud Spirit is the newest entry into the German-based Sea Cloud Cruises’ fleet of three windjammers that, until recently, were marketed almost exclusively in Europe. Best known for the original Sea Cloud (built in 1931 as the private yacht of cereal heiress Marjorie Merriwether Post and still sailing today), Sea Cloud Cruises added the 94-guest

Sea Cloud II to the fleet in 2001 and now, with Sea Cloud Spirit, hopes to lure American guests to the elegance and romance of an authentic sailing adventure. And I do mean authentic. Unlike the automatic sails that adorn other sailing ships in the cruise industry, the billowing sails above me are set by hand just as they were centuries ago.

ON SAIL It is 9:00 a.m. when the action begins. Guests assemble on deck and gaze wide-eyed as 19 male and female sailors scurry up the ship’s masts like a determined band of tightrope walkers, positioning themselves within the maze of rigging to manually unfurl and position the 44,100 square feet of heavy canvas sail. The climb down from the masts is just as chilling and I’m surprised to learn from a crew member that it is the newbie deckhands who are tasked with the job at the mast’s highest point — nearly 200 feet above the waterline — in order to acclimate them to the task. Nearly half of all Sea Cloud guests are themselves sailors or have an association with the sea so it’s not surprising that Sea Cloud Spirit offers them an opportunity to get even closer to the action. That’s right! After passing a brief physical with the ship’s doctor, the bravest among us may slip into a harness and climb the mast, scaling the ropes and ladders, accompanied on the climb by an experienced deckhand leading the way and one bringing up the rear. Meanwhile, Sea Cloud Spirit’s Photo Safari offers a less intimidating activity: A Zodiac ride that circles the ship when its sails are majestically unfurled. It’s a photo op that yields highly professional results even for me, a lousy photographer with a four-year-old iPhone.

Sea Cloud Cruises (x3)

am standing on the weathered wooden deck of the 136-guest Sea Cloud Spirit, shielding my eyes from the blinding sun as I gaze upward at the riot of 28 billowing sails that are propelling us under wind power alone across the impossibly blue Caribbean Sea. If it weren’t for the fact that I had been dancing on deck last night to Van Halen’s “Jump” and watched the Olympics opening ceremony stream live into the ship’s Atlas Lounge the other day, I could almost believe that I have been transported back to the 19th century and the Age of Sail.

38-45 FEATURE - DAY@SEA- SeaCloudSpirit copy 40

10/29/24 9:01 AM

LUXURY BENEATH THE SAILS While sailing is certainly the main focus, a voyage aboard Sea Cloud Spirit is no rugged undertaking designed specifically for the hardy adventurous type. Beneath those magnificent Sea Cloud Spirit sails and a deck dotted with winches, ropes, and pulleys, guests find a decidedly luxurious experience that begins with free-flowing Champagne at embarkation. Sea Cloud Spirit is an all-inclusive experience with beverages (including wine, beer, cocktails, and spirits), gratuities and port fees, dining, and bottled water included in the fare. Thanks to the line’s origins, you’ll find five-star European hospitality throughout and notice that the majority of your shipmates hail from Germany and other European countries, prices for optional items like shore excursions, boutique purchases, and spa treatments are quoted in euros and communications appear in both English and German.

It is the newbie deckhands who are tasked with the job at the mast’s highest point — nearly 200 feet above the waterline.

Sea Cloud Spirit and Zodiac

38-45 FEATURE - DAY@SEA- SeaCloudSpirit copy 41

10/29/24 9:01 AM

“

Sea Cloud Spirit’s public spaces are tasteful and elegant.

38-45 FEATURE - DAY@SEA- SeaCloudSpirit copy 42

Sea Cloud Cruises (x10)

“ 42

10/29/24 9:01 AM

Sea Cloud Cruises (x10)

38-45 FEATURE - DAY@SEA- SeaCloudSpirit copy 43

10/29/24 9:01 AM

Sea Cloud Spirit’s public spaces are tasteful and elegant. From Old-World touches like the oval-leaded windows, goldtrimmed sconces, and golden-framed nautical paintings of the ship’s formal dining room to the living-room ambience of her ocean-view library (books in both English and German), and the sophistication of the Atlas Lounge with its polished Steinway & Sons grand piano, the overwhelming feeling is that of a comfortable country home. Yet the ship’s nautical nature is always nearby, particularly at the Lido bar and bistro, a covered alfresco dining, drinking, and dancing spot, where those breathtaking sails are just an upward glance away.

A TASTE OF SEA CLOUD SPIRIT Sea Cloud Spirit’s European roots are a delicious inspiration for much of its dining with rich soups, innovative salads, hearty cuts of meat, and the freshest seafood taking center stage (and, where maritime laws permit, some of that seafood will have been caught directly from the ship that morning, fileted, and grilled right in front of you). Vegetarians have their own selections at each meal. Even at lunchtime buffets, usually served outdoors at the

Lido Bistro, it’s doubtful you’ll find American-style “grab and go” selections like sandwiches and pizza but, instead, more formal dishes like luscious paella with shrimp the size of lobster tails, carved roast turkey, grilled filet mignon, or absolutely scrumptious bacon-wrapped pork loin. Even a barbecue dinner, served on deck, eschewed typical American favorites like ribs, chicken, and burgers, replacing them with the more elegant grilled sirloin or ribeye steak and tuna three ways: tartare, sashimi, and grilled steak. In the past year, Sea Cloud Spirit has placed a new emphasis on its dining program, featuring award-winning culinary legends serving as guest chefs on certain sailings. In addition to contributing their own mouth-watering dishes to Sea Cloud Spirit menus, they conduct cooking demonstrations, tastings, and interact with guests hungry to learn more about the cuisine and culture of the area they’re sailing. In January 2025, Sea Cloud Spirit homeports in San Juan and celebrates the island’s culinary culture with a series of sailings that showcase well-known Puerto Rican chefs. In 2026, she’ll return to San Juan to explore the Caribbean and Central America before sailing the Bahamas round trip from Miami on March 26.

Sea Cloud Cruises (x6)

Where maritime laws permit, some of that seafood will have been caught directly from the ship that morning, fileted, and grilled right in front of you.

38-45 FEATURE - DAY@SEA- SeaCloudSpirit copy 44

10/29/24 9:01 AM

“

The overwhelming feeling is that of a comfortable country home.

Sea Cloud Cruises (x6)

“

38-45 FEATURE - DAY@SEA- SeaCloudSpirit copy 45

10/29/24 9:01 AM

t.sableaux - stock.adobe.com

46-51 FEATURE - RSSC copy 46

10/29/24 9:02 AM

Caviar for Breakfast A discreet peek at an ultra-luxury experience on Regent Seven Seas Cruises. by John and Sandra Nowlan

46-51 FEATURE - RSSC copy 47

10/29/24 9:02 AM

egent Seven Seas Cruises holds a unique place in the world of cruising. The high-end brand of parent Norwegian Cruise Line Holdings, its six ships are in the rarified ultra-luxury category — but Regent stands out by offering a complete all-inclusive package. Included in the price are a spacious suite with balcony, all meals (including specialty restaurants), drinks (including beer, wine, spirits, and cocktails), tours (with a wide variety of choices in each port), gratuities, airport and hotel transfers, and even laundry and pressing. In some categories, first-class flights and pre-cruise hotels are included. Regent management told us its greatest marketing challenge is showing potential guests that with a single, upfront cost, they could actually pay less than on other lines. As soon as we boarded Seven Seas Splendor for a weeklong Caribbean cruise from Miami, the luxury and service stood out. Walking around with welcome Champagne in hand, the 46,000 square feet of fine Italian marble on walls and floors, and more than 500 stunning chandeliers, created an ambience unlike any we’ve experienced in 25

46-51 FEATURE - RSSC copy 48

10/29/24 9:02 AM

The ship itself was clearly the star of our week-long cruise from Miami. years of cruising. The ship, with a tonnage of 55,000, has a capacity for just 746 guests, all in 373 balcony suites ranging from an impressive 307 to more than 4,000 square feet. The crew of 548 provides the best staff-to-guest ratio at sea. Splendor’s younger twin sister, Seven Seas Grandeur, launched in 2023, is virtually identical but with one fewer guest suite.

Regent Seven Seas Cuises (x3)

LUXE LIFE ON BOARD We were in one of the smaller suites but were impressed with the layout and generous storage spaces including a walk-in closet. The long couch and convenient work desk were separated from the bed area by privacy blackout curtains while the balcony, with its generous table and two cushioned wicker chairs, was one of the largest we’ve ever seen. The bed itself was extremely comfortable with high thread-count sheets and excellent adjustable reading lights. There were several convenient USB and power outlets. The thermostat was controlled by up and down — warmer and cooler — arrows rather than an actual temperature setting. The small fridge could be filled with whatever complimentary drinks we wanted. The marble-lined bathroom had just one smallish sink but a large shower area with both a regular shower head and a rainforest-style shower. Rooms are cleaned and refreshed twice a day, and newspaper summaries (from the USA, Canada, Britain and other countries) are put on the bed each evening along with tomorrow’s schedule (the spacious library includes a

daily, full edition of The New York Times). The large, highresolution TV had many free movies available but broadcast channel choices were very limited. On our cruise, internet was often slow and spotty but the technical head on the ship told us that major satellite improvements were imminent.

BON APPÉTIT Regent continues to excel in its culinary program. We were amazed by the unlimited, Atlantic Canadian lobster, available prime rib each evening, and endless caviar at Sunday brunch. The Hotel General Manager, Anatoli Makaev, told us that food costs, per person, are the highest at sea. Regent, he said, is spending three times more for food than before the pandemic. Unlike other lines, there have been no cutbacks in quality or quantity. Chefs continued to get paid during the covid years and their commitment to guest satisfaction is evident. For a ship with fewer than 800 passengers, the restaurant and menu choices were remarkable. Every evening in the main dining room, Compass Rose, guests could choose from an “Always Available” menu (from Alaska crab to New Zealand lamb) or the daily specials including the executive chef’s sixcourse “Gourmet Tasting Menu”. A healthy Spa menu was also available. Good quality red, white, rosé, or sparkling wines were offered without extra cost each day, even non-alcoholic wines if you wished. Three uniquely decorated specialty restaurants offer French cuisine (Chartreuse), Asian fare (Pan Pacific), or steaks and seafood (Prime 7).

46-51 FEATURE - RSSC copy 49

10/29/24 9:02 AM

The large buffet restaurant on Deck 11, La Veranda, has an excellent selection of breakfast and lunch items. White tablecloths are standard throughout the area (most unusual for a cruise ship buffet) and are a classy touch in the evening when much of La Veranda becomes a fine Italian restaurant, Sette Mari. Coffee quality in the buffet was only fair but outstanding brews were always available at Deck Five’s Coffee Connection.

PLENTIFUL PLEASURES Seven Seas Splendor has a well-equipped fitness center and a spa at the stern of the ship. We discovered the uncrowded Infinity Swimming Pool as part of the spa and preferred it to the large, main pool on Deck 11. Splendor’s entertainment was, as expected, of a high caliber, with a dozen talented singers and dancers, accompanied by the ship band, putting on several complex main-stage productions in the evening. The Regent Signature Orchestra, the Cocktail pianist, and a DJ also played music for listening or dancing each evening in several lounges throughout the ship. On our final evening, a few band members and singers put on a lively Beatles music night, with dancing encouraged, in the Atrium. We were only disappointed that the ship’s entertainment did not include a string quartet or even a solo cello or harp. Classical music would have been a lovely touch in the pre-dinner period. There was no shortage of games and puzzles throughout the ship. Trivia, bingo, darts, shuffle golf, and beanbag toss were among several ways guests competed for coveted Regent points and prizes at the end of the cruise. We were also pleased to see and hear a retired history professor give

illustrated lectures about subjects ranging from Mayan civilization to the Caribbean connection in World War II. Another special treat was seeing actor John O’Hurley (best known as J. Peterman on Seinfeld) perform his brilliant one-man show — music and musings — called “A Man With Standards.” The ship itself was clearly the star of our week-long cruise from Miami but the itinerary was fascinating too. We docked in Roatán, Honduras, for an island tour and swim, then stopped the next day in nearby Belize, the only Englishspeaking country in Central America. Sandra joined a tour to a spice farm where the two chefs from the Culinary Arts Kitchen collected spices to be used in a hands-on cooking class back on the ship. Guests prepared prawn biryani with garam masala and white-pepper crepes with cardamom ice cream. In the meantime, John visited a typical Mayan village off the grid where a chocolate maker showed how cacao beans were harvested and turned into popular sweet treats. Our planned stop in Costa Maya, Mexico, was canceled because seas were too rough to dock, but Cozumel was more tranquil and we relived our youth by boarding a two-person mini-speedboat and racing through choppy water with other boats before stopping for a snorkel in warm, pristine waters filled with tropical fish. Regent Seven Seas has been called “the most luxurious cruise line in the world.” Our seven days on Splendor has made us believers. With the success of Seven Seas Splendor and Seven Seas Grandeur, Regent is preparing for even more luxury in 2026 with the planned launch of Seven Seas Prestige. This new-class, 77,000-ton vessel will accommodate 850 pampered guests.

Regent Seven Seas Cuises (x5)

Regent Seven Seas has been called “the most luxurious cruise line in the world.” Our seven days on Splendor has made us believers.

46-51 FEATURE - RSSC copy 50

10/29/24 9:02 AM

Splendor’s younger twin sister, Seven Seas Grandeur, launched in 2023, is virtually identical but with one fewer guest suite.

Regent Seven Seas Cuises (x5)

COMMODORE CLUB

46-51 FEATURE - RSSC copy 51

10/29/24 9:02 AM

52-59 FEATURE- MED Winter copy 52

10/29/24 9:03 AM

WINDSTAR’S WINTER RIVIERA Chase away the January blues aboard Windstar’s Star Legend sailing in winter from the Catalan capital to the Eternal City. Even if you’re not feeling blue, this journey will lift your spirits. You might think of the Med as a gleaming region of sun-soaked beauty, but in the chillier months, it reveals a different face. Star Legend, refurbished in 2021, purrs through stops at Nice, Marseille and Livorno, opening with an overnight at Barcelona and closing similarly at Rome. The new Mediterranean cruise started in 2024 and is now a regular highlight of Windstar’s winter offerings.

Words & Photos by Andrew Maclear

52-59 FEATURE- MED Winter copy 53

10/29/24 9:03 AM

1. The travertine stone facade of The Colosseum, visible beyond sparse winter foliage. 2. Star Legend’s elegant circular stairwell and iconic amphora on Deck Three. 3. Shuttered windows block the winter sun in Trastevere, Rome.

52-59 FEATURE- MED Winter copy 54

10/29/24 9:03 AM

2 5 4. Star Legend’s impressive backlit wine array in Amphora, the ship’s principal dining venue, which features menus selected by the James Beard Foundation and their associated chefs. 5. Expanded by 84 feet in a triumph of maritime surgery in 2020, Star Legend added 50 luxury suites, reformed bathrooms throughout, and created new public areas.

3 55

52-59 FEATURE- MED Winter copy 55

10/29/24 9:03 AM

1. The 15th-century Gothic ceiling of Basílica de Santa María del Mar, Barcelona. 2. The Ponte Sant Angelo, Rome, traversing the River Tiber. 3. Abundant small bars and bodegas lie in the quiet winter backstreets of Barcelona.

52-59 FEATURE- MED Winter copy 56

3 10/29/24 9:03 AM

Sunlight and shadow play on an arch beneath the Ponte Sant Angelo, Rome.

52-59 FEATURE- MED Winter copy 57

10/29/24 9:03 AM

The cloisters and interior pond of the Cathedral of Barcelona are home to a resident family of ducks.

52-59 FEATURE- MED Winter copy 58

10/29/24 9:03 AM

1. Contemplating the night ahead, or another pizza, in Rome’s Monti district. 2. A labyrinth of faded, pastelcolored alleys lying behind the waterfront in Nice. 3. Always with an eye for design, a well-dressed French patisserie in Nice.

3 59

52-59 FEATURE- MED Winter copy 59

10/29/24 9:03 AM

GOOD VIBES

Around the World Here’s how travel is building a better tomorrow. by Alex Darlington

Left: OLM Nature Escape Right clockwise from top: Press Kit_Medals of the Paris 2024 Games (x2), OLM Nature Escape, Hemingway House and Museum

OLM Nature Escape

PORTHOLE CRUISE & TRAVEL

60-61 GOOD VIBES - news copy 60

10/29/24 9:04 AM

BEST LIFE

U.S. O LYMPIC M EDA LISTS TO ENJOY FREE CRUISES

CAT TRAVELS Love culture? Love cats? You can satisfy both those passions by planning a cat trip, visiting historic sites worldwide that house lovable felines. For instance:

Celestyal Cruises has found a thoughtful way to honor its Greek heritage. They’re offering a free cruise to every American athlete who won a medal in the 2024 Olympics. The Olympics started in Greece; so did Celestyal. America won 257 medals in the Paris Games, more than any other nation. Those athletes can choose any of several relaxing 7-day cruises to ports that include Thessaloniki, Kavala, Dubai, Khalifa, Mykonos, and other exotic locales. “What better way for heroes from Team USA to unwind?” says chief commercial officer Lee Haslett.

The Hemingway House and Museum in Key West, Florida. See where the iconic author lived and wrote, and meet the 60-plus cats who also call the place home. Many have six toes on each paw and are said to have descended from Snow White, Ernest and Pauline’s family pet.

Left: OLM Nature Escape Right clockwise from top: Press Kit_Medals of the Paris 2024 Games (x2), OLM Nature Escape, Hemingway House and Museum

The Hermitage Museum in St. Petersburg, Russia. Meet more than 80 pampered felines who help keep the pest population down in Catherine the Great’s art collection. Southwark Cathedral in London. Hodge, the resident kitty, “pays his rent” by catching mice who invade this 1,000-year-old holy place. He inherited the post from Doorkins Magnificat.

Hairy Truman, at the Hemingway home in Key West

NEW PLANNING TOOL FROM MSC MSC Cruises has unveiled an amazing new device for their fleet that will slash harmful emissions by 15 percent in 2026 — by planning more efficient itineraries. The tool, OptiCruise, measures and evaluates factors such as ship speed, sequencing of ports of call, departure and arrival times, and operational costs. MSC’s officials will then use the information to more efficiently plan where cruises will go, thereby satisfying customers’ needs while cutting pollution. “This technology is a significant step forward in our ambition to achieve our net-zero greenhouse-gas emissions target by 2050,” said MCS’s chief energy transition officer, Michele Franconi.

S U S TA I N A B I LIT Y I S T H E N E W LU X U RY As more people notice the threat wasteful consumerism poses to our planet, the definition of luxury is changing — especially in the tourism industry. The old mindset (expense equals “class”) is dying. Sustainability is replacing lavish spending as hotel guests value clean air and water and a pristine environment as luxuries in themselves.

Green Pearls–certified hotels are well aware of the change. One, the OLM Nature Escape in South Tyrol, is completely energy-self-sufficient. Guests can enjoy maximum comfort (like a heated, indoor/outdoor natural pool, or a cellar of 60 natural, organic and biodynamic wines) while leaving a minimal carbon footprint. At the Hubertus Mountain Refugio,

a private spring supplies the pool with 5,000 liters ( 1,320 gallons) of fresh water daily, saving 1,800 cubic meters (63,600 cubic feet) of drinkable water each year. And the Hotel Das Rubezahl, a lavish escape in the Bavarian Alps, is built entirely from environmentally friendly materials, with Neuschwanstein Castle always in view.

OLM Nature Escape

The Finch Bay Hotel

PORTHOLE CRUISE & TRAVEL

60-61 GOOD VIBES - news copy 61

10/29/24 9:04 AM

GOOD VIBES

BEST LIFE

Go Green Thailand Environmentally conscious tourism has delivered a whole new way to enjoy Southeast Asia.

Left: InterContinental Khao Yai Resort Right: Suksamran Electric Boat, InterContinental Khao Yai Resort

by Kevin Revolinski

Luxuriating in InterContinental Khao Yai Resort’s stationary train car

PORTHOLE CRUISE & TRAVEL

62-64 GOOD VIBES- green thailand copy 62

10/29/24 9:05 AM

BEST LIFE

ALL ABOARD

Solar-powered boat

he Land of Smiles is dealing with the challenges of pollution, climate change, and the millions of annual tourists. Creative adaptations abound, and travelers can make a difference by seeking out greener, more ethical options that are not sacrifices, but actually improve the travel experience.

Left: InterContinental Khao Yai Resort Right: Suksamran Electric Boat, InterContinental Khao Yai Resort

GREEN ON THE WATER

Bangkok is a city of canals, and the muddy waters of the Chao Phraya River also curl serpentine through the capital city. Life along the river is a destination in itself, and boat traffic — from ferries and private boats to barges and pleasure cruises — take their toll on the water quality. A common mode of travel is the long-tail boat: a narrow, canopied wooden boat with a repurposed diesel truck engine attached to a steerable long pole with a propeller at the end of it. These produce pollution, and the engine noise is enough to make one shout to be heard. But Mr. Sun had a solution. Sira “Mr. Sun” Lipipattanawit of Suksamran Electric Boat confirmed my booking for a

group of four, and we met him at a pier a short walk from Bangkok’s Skytrain in Thonburi on the west side of the Chao Phraya, almost a time capsule in contrast to modern Bangkok to the east. We saw him before we heard him — unusual for this sort of boat — and then we spotted the solar panels along the top. Mr. Sun squatted on the bow with what looked like a drone controller in his hands as he maneuvered the craft into place so we could board. He converted the diesel engine to electric and installed panels that, with charged batteries, maintained enough juice for over 5 hours of touring waterways only wide enough for a couple boats to pass. We slipped quietly past homes built along the water, under walking bridges, stopping at temples, a museum, and several restaurants. Mr. Sun’s boat was so silent you forgot you weren’t merely coasting, and he could narrate the tour without shouting. We pulled up next to a banyan tree full of egrets which stared at us until a long-tail boat rumbling past scared them to flight. Mr. Sun’s efforts have met with resistance from some of the local diesel-powered

boat pilots, but the trend toward electric is on. In 2021, the MINE Smart Ferry began running up and down the Chao Phraya. These air-conditioned battery-powered catamarans hold up to 250 passengers and stop near Wat Arun (Temple of the Dawn) and the Grand Palace, as well as the stations of the ever-expanding electric Skytrain and subway systems. In July 2024, app-based electric boat taxis also joined the river traffic. In 20 years of visiting Thailand, I had never had such a calm, peaceful time on the water, and an entire day could be powered by renewable energy.

In 20 years of visiting Thailand, I had never had such a calm, peaceful time on the water.

Passenger trains once connected Bangkok to Nakhon Ratchasima Province, the gateway to Isan, Thailand’s northeast region. But what a surprise it is to find historic sleeper cars looking brand new and set on rails as if abandoned on a sidetrack in the jungle. Situated on a 100-acre forested property just outside the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Khao Yai National Park, the InterContinental Khao Yai Resort offers train cars converted into long suites with bedroom, bathroom, and sitting area, as well as canopied decks with outdoor tubs and showers made private by the enclosing tropical foliage. We checked in at a mock train-station ticket office before being taken by golf cart through the verdant grounds to our car. A spa and two restaurants are similarly upcycled cars, and a walking trail around a small central lake leads to modern rooms and restaurants that echo the train-station theme and design. The national park, home to gibbons, more than 280 species of birds, and nearly 200 wild elephants, is a short drive away.

InterContinental Bedroom Suite

PORTHOLE CRUISE & TRAVEL

62-64 GOOD VIBES- green thailand copy 63

10/29/24 9:05 AM

GOOD VIBES

RESPECT FOR ELEPHANTS

A century ago, Thailand had more than 100,000 Asian elephants. Today, there are fewer than 4,000, and less than half of those live in the wild. Elephant riding and tourist shows are rife with problems and abuse, but there are still ethical ways to experience these majestic, gentle giants. Founded by Saengduean “Lek” Chailert, the world-famous conservationist and passionate champion of the Asian elephant, Elephant Nature Park is a haven for rescue elephants. A short drive from the northern city of Chiang Mai, the sprawling complex along a river in the mountains is the forever home to more than 120 elephants, many with tragic stories related to tourism and illegal logging. Visitors come on day trips from Chiang Mai or stay a week as volunteers to help maintain the park. No one rides elephants here; they are left to their complex social lives. You will learn all there is to know about the endangered Asian elephant … and theirs are not the only lives that have been changed by this place.

Elephant Nature Park (x2)

No one rides elephants here; they are left to their complex social lives.

PORTHOLE CRUISE & TRAVEL

62-64 GOOD VIBES- green thailand copy 64

10/29/24 9:05 AM

Fabien Bazanegue/Wirestock Creators - stock.adobe.com

SET-JETTING

BEST LIFE

Q: Can you

name a film that shot a scene in this iconic urban location?

How about more than one? (answers on next page)

PORTHOLE CRUISE & TRAVEL

65-66 SET JETTING - NYC copy 65

10/29/24 9:06 AM

SET-JETTING

BEST LIFE

(from previous page)

Q : What famous movie was filmed in Rockefeller Center ?

So how many

films did you get? These are just a few of the titles with a scene set in front of New York City's holiday HQ,

Rockefellercenter.com

Rockefeller Center.

PORTHOLE CRUISE & TRAVEL

65-66 SET JETTING - NYC copy 66

10/29/24 9:06 AM

for some, feeling

LEFT OUT lasts more than a moment.

We can change that. We’ve all had moments where we’ve felt we didn’t belong. But for people who moved to this country, that feeling lasts more than a moment. Together, we can build a better community. Learn how at BelongingBeginsWithUs.org

PSA Ad Council Belonging - PH247.indd 67

10/30/24 2:34 PM

LELAND & SEA

All Features Great and Small Steve sails the world in style. This issue, he’s on two very different small-ship cruises.

Left: Nikos S. - stock.adobe.com Right: Elixir Boutique Cruises (x4)

by Steve Leland

Church on Sifnos

PORTHOLE CRUISE & TRAVEL

68-71 LELAND & SEA- elixir_sarafina copy 68

10/29/24 9:07 AM

BEST LIFE

electing a cruise holiday is all about preferences. Large ships have an appeal that bustles with entertaining activity, or conversely, smaller vessels have a more intimate appeal for getaways that promise personal relaxation. If you’re like me and embrace the idea of escaping the crowd, I’ve recently experienced two options that might just float your boat. Neither are the kind of name brands that dominate headlines, but both Elixir Boutique Cruises and Barge Lady Cruises can claim a special niche in cruising.

THE GREEK ISLANDS BY YACHT

Strolling the marinas of the Med lined with multimillion-dollar yachts, I’ve always come away green with envy. Aside from winning the lottery, I could only dream about what it might take to enjoy the yachting lifestyle. This past summer, I hit the jackpot. With Elixir Boutique Cruises acquiring the 10-passenger M/Y Gemaya, I was able to land a unique opportunity to experience yacht cruising without the exorbitant price tag. There’s no need to charter an entire vessel when you can book an individual suite and cruise in the style of the rich and famous on the iconic Aegean Sea. With Gemaya at anchor each

Make friends at home jealous with Instagram posts of the Folegandros Harmony Lounge

morning, we’d slip into the cobalt-blue waters for a wake-up dip. A hearty breakfast would be followed by a splash-and-play session on SeaBobs and paddleboards, or sunbathing on the floating sunbed. For beachcombing, the yacht’s Zodiac would whisk us to secluded coves on shore. The yacht would sail to hidden treasures of the Cyclades, the likes of Kythnos, Sifnos, Kimolos, Ios, and Antiparos. These secret paradises each have unique characteristics to fill your afternoons far removed from mainstream cruise itineraries. Explore the Katafiki Cave on Kythnos, hike the trails of Sifnos, or view the lofty Church of the Seven Martyrs. Stroll through the colorful alleyways of

Aft deck

Left: Nikos S. - stock.adobe.com Right: Elixir Boutique Cruises (x4)

The real appeal of this kind of cruising is engaging with the Greek lifestyle: Guests can dine ashore at local tavernas in the evenings.

cliffs.

Almyra Lounge

Antiparos, soak up the sun on Manganari Beach on Ios, or make friends at home jealous with Instagram posts of the Folegandros cliffs. The vessel boasts ample indoor and outdoor areas, a chic lounge, and a sundeck with Jacuzzi. Accommodations include a lavish Owner’s Suite, the Alma Master Suite, the Bliss Junior Suite, and two Executive cabins, each with portholes. Plush mattresses and snuggly, all-season duvets grace the intimate accommodations along with complimentary WiFi and flat-screen TV. A crew of six meet each request with a prompt “Whatever you wish!” The multi-talented Nikos cooks up lunches using fresh, locally sourced ingredients as well as preparing a welcome and farewell dinner. However, the real appeal of this kind of cruising is engaging with the Greek lifestyle: Guests can dine ashore at local tavernas in the evenings. There’s something special about selecting a local beachfront venue and digging your toes in the sand while savoring authentic specialties supplemented by Greek salad, tzatziki, and glasses of ouzo. Thanks to seven glorious days of sailing to off-theradar Greek islands with Elixir Boutique Cruises, I’ve enjoyed the impeccable luxury of yacht cruising. (Without having to win the lottery!)

PORTHOLE CRUISE & TRAVEL

68-71 LELAND & SEA- elixir_sarafina copy 69

10/29/24 9:07 AM

LELAND & SEA

BARGING ON CANAL DU MIDI

Squeezing under picturesque bridges, cruising through long tunnels, and sailing over rivers via an ancient Roman aqueduct all made for a memorable video log of unplugged life.

Salon

Canal du Midi over the Orb river

This unique mode of cruising had become an annual rite for us, and in early spring, we opted to drift through the Canal du Midi in Southern France with Barge Lady Cruises. While barge capacities rarely exceed 10 guests, this time we experienced an even smaller vessel, the intimate, four-passenger Saraphina. After a hearty breakfast each day, excursions revealed a vibrant mix of country villages, medieval castles, vineyards, and bustling markets. Rather than lunches on board, a different cafe or bistro played host for sampling regional fare. Four exquisitely prepared dinners were served on board, capped off with a finale of feasting ashore. France’s canals were originally designed in the 1600s for horsedrawn barges, providing a means of transporting goods to landlocked destinations. With the advent of the railroad, the canal system fell into a period of disrepair. Then in the mid 1960s, inspired by the idea of enhanced recreational use, the concept of bargehotel cruising began, giving new life to these historic waterways. Throughout the journey, the barge was lifted and lowered through an ingenious lock system. While most of these locks are single-level operations, the Fonseranes Locks are a series of six step-by-step chambers. Squeezing under picturesque bridges, cruising through long tunnels, and sailing over rivers via an ancient Roman aqueduct all made for a memorable video log of unplugged life. In the evenings, Saraphina moored All images courtesy of Barge Saraphina

My friends, puzzled: “What? You’re cruising on a barge?” Me, with a confident grin: “Absolutely!” Admittedly, the word “barge” does conjure up visions of a flat metal slab loaded with containers or logs being towed by a tugboat. However, nothing is further from that image than the passenger barges cruising the inland canals of France. In fact, many of these vessels originated as extravagant retreats for wealthy European entrepreneurs, while other commercial barges have been modified into floating boutique hotels.

PORTHOLE CRUISE & TRAVEL

68-71 LELAND & SEA- elixir_sarafina copy 70

10/29/24 9:07 AM

BEST LIFE

France’s canals were originally designed in the 1600s for horse-drawn barges, providing a means of transporting goods to landlocked destinations.

up in tiny hamlets where our guide, Rex, would magically appear each morning, whisking us off to places like the medieval fortress of Carcassonne or the ancient village of Minerve, perched on a canyon cliff. A fascinating visit to a 12thcentury abbey was supplemented by an olive oil- and wine-tasting session, magnificent cathedrals, and afternoon cruising through the French countryside. Voila, every day is magnifique. Dinners were gastronomic celebrations, exquisitely prepared by co-owner Emily. Wine enthusiasts reveled in the opportunity to sample fruits of the vine with different topshelf appellations from local boutique vineyards. One white and one red were topped off with an homage to fromage: Each cheese course shed new light into the world of French cheese production. Delectable desserts and after-dinner cocktails finished off evenings As the cruise neared completion, Rex once again appeared and we were driven through rolling vineyards to the trendy Le Hospitalet, where we tasted wines of the Languedoc region. With their brilliant finish still on our tongues, we headed to the town of Narbonne and its imposing St. Just Cathedral, a photographer's

dream. Particularly special was an opportunity to sit at a counter in the Narbonne Market, enjoying a meal prepared from fresh ingredients, surrounded by patisseries, butchers, vegetable counters, and fishmongers. Barge cruising is generally offered as a 6-night itinerary, but with so much to see and do in Southeastern France, Finnegan and Emily, owneroperators of Saraphina, offer a brilliant option for pre- or post-cruise extension. Following our nights aboard, they morphed themselves into land-based hosts at the Maison Saraphina, a charming country home that could easily be depicted in a Monet painting. With five bedrooms, a swimming pool, and a tennis court, it’s ideal for a family retreat and can be rented as a self-catered accommodation or with the services of a driver, guide, or chef. Saraphina may not be for everybody, but that’s the best part. It’s specifically for four very fortunate souls to experience ultimate exclusivity and life in the slow lane. With only two staterooms, there’s plenty of space to relax indoors with a book or lie out on deck and take it all in. If you’ve had your fill of crowded tourist destinations, Saraphina is your ticket to your very own personal holiday, complete with staff and crew.

Carcassonne

PORTHOLE CRUISE & TRAVEL

68-71 LELAND & SEA- elixir_sarafina copy 71

10/29/24 9:07 AM

#CruiseForGood

BEST LIFE

International Volunteer HQ, R.M. Nunes - stock.adobe.com

nternational Volunteer HQ's Sea Turtle Conservation Project is located on the beautiful island of Nusa Penida, a 45-minute boat trip from Sanur on the southeastern coast of Bali. A naturelover’s paradise, Nusa Penida is a haven for green and hawksbill turtles and, as an official bird sanctuary, home to several species of endangered birds that are thriving there. Visitors can volunteer for up to 5 hours a day.

Tree House at Diamond Beach, Nusa Penida

vonwong.com

Visit the IVHQ Website

PORTHOLE CRUISE & TRAVEL

72 CRUISE FOR GOOD copy 72

10/29/24 9:08 AM

Time is running out to protect vulnerable wildlife. Act now. wwf.org

wwf.org

PSA_WWF-LIOLI-jaguar - PH254 copy.indd 3

10/30/24 8:23 AM

Travel along with Porthole this year and...

you’ll see what we sea

From Thailand to Timbuktu, don’t miss a thing. Subscribe at porthole.com

PHC_SeeWhatWeSea_v1 copy.indd 4

10/30/24 8:23 AM