FASHION JOURNALISM CLASS ASSIGNMENTS
PRACHI SETHI FASHION COMMUNICATION SEMESTER - V
TREND REPORT
DECONSTRUCTIVE
CLASSICS Unfinished, Rebellious, Raw. The Vintage linings sewn on the outside of clothes, exposed zippers and seams, burnt out finishes, distress ends and the saggy silhouettes, somehow putting these together in an aesthetic construction has led us to “Deconstructive Fashion” This new rendition of fashion took the runways of Spring Summer 2017 by the storm as the wacky ideas: the deconstructed skirt dresses by Alexander Wang, the half and half mismatched shoulder dresses by Monse and the wrongly buttoned shirts by Concept Korea has us wondering if the mad seamstress has come to the town. In the late 1960s, “deconstructionism” or “Le Destroy” was coined by the French philosopher Jacques Derrida who named the process of “breaking down established forms.” His idea was to contradict, challenge the universal truth, which is exactly what designers like Marques’Almeida and Jacquemus brought to the fashion world this season with their Oversized and loud spins. The classic white button-down shirts were cropped short with long sleeves and also wrapped around at Alexander Wang, while the duo Ryan Lobo and Ramon Martin made theirs one shoulder down covered with ruffles. What is interesting is how much ever anti-structural and rebellious it may seem, this trend is a process of simultaneously forming and deforming, constructing and destroying, making and undoing clothing in the most creative format. Marques Almeida Spring Summer 2017 RTW
Jacquemus Spring Summer 2017 RTW
Ryan Logo and Ramon Martin Spring Summer 2017 RTW (right and left)
Whether working with organic cotton, neoprene or raw denim, brands are experimenting with deconstructed details, changing the way we see these traditional materials. Deconstructed Garments have been subjected to different interpretations, from Anti-Fashion to Zeitgeist (spirit of the times: response to economic and political scenario) to Eco-Fashion (representing the image of recyclability of fashion). Deconstructed garments are not only walking down the ramps of fashion week but are also taking up prominent shelf-space at brands like Diesel, Forever21 and All Saints this season.Diesel is pretty much consumed by deconstruction with its seams arranged in messy-organized way. The raw-cut theme runs through its accessories, handbags and even shoes. A few favorites include the M-Tribe Sweather, Divina Brave Travel Bag, Fedusa Sweatshirt, and the Fayza Boyfriend Jeans. Forever21 has its own share of clothing under the deconstructive category with its Slub Dolman Top, Distressed Hardware Skinnies, Twisted Rose Burnout top and Two-Tone deconstructive sweater. The “all neutrals” brand All Saints also thrives on their deconstructed pieces, with design experiments with shapes, fabrics, and draping – the Aime Trench Dress, the Steyning Coat, Wilkin Jacket, the Dama Cardigan and much more.
Alexander Wang Spring Summer 2017 RTW
All saints Aime Trench Dress Simon Rocha Spring Summer 2017 RTW Diesel Fayza Boyfriend Jeans (top) Forever21 distressed Skinnies (bottom two)
STATEMENT Writing a statement upon the cover of 125th Anniversary cover of Vogue featuring Jennifer Laurence.
Jennifer Lawrence - John Currin (Painted Portrait)
Creating a masterstroke, Vogue in it’s 125th Anniversary collector’s edition, blends the elegance of Rococo with a hint of absurd. Vogue celebrates the beautifully painted Jennifer Lawrence, radiating richness as her eyes entices the reader’s attention. This creating a symbolic, aesthetic look onto Vogue’s glorious years. Like the classic white shirts and black pants, Vogue makes a statement - we’ve been here, we’re still here and we’ll always be here.
CONSTRUCTIVE DECONSTRUCTION Taking a concept and framing an opinion and supporting it with contemporary examples.
CONSTRUCTIVE DECONSTRUCTION Deconstructive Fashion Challenges the Perception of Perfection. Image Courtesy : NotJustALabel
It is a Paradox, isn’t it? Deconstruction is about rethinking, re-analysing, undoing and recreating a s masterpiece – a juxtapose of design and anti-design, fashion and antifashion. The making of “the unfinished”, the decomposition, the re-assembling of clothing structures, is resulting in an analytical construction of garments. It is to look at perfection, and question its very existence. The paradox in taking apart clothing in order to establish a revolution lies in the conscious creation of the deconstruction.The process of deconstruction incorporates raw edges, exposed seams and distressed textiles, thus replacing the refined and finished flawlessness with the enhancement of design and creativity. It is a mere rejection of the widely held perception of beauty and the way we look at garments, it is to create discomfort and shock to highlight the design elements. Some people argue that it’s a rebellion against perfect tailoring.
Deconstructive fashion challenges design and tailoring to create unconventional pieces with dramatic structure. – an auto-critique of the fashion system revealing the technical aspects – the form, the stitches and the fabrication. Dadaism art movement, originating in Europe in 1916 with a somewhat destructive ingredient at its core sought to rebel against the confines of society, aiming to shatter the definition of art. While primarily Dadaism wasn’t directed towards fashion, it’s influence is ingrained in contemporary fashion and culture - deconstructing and reconstructing the elements and principles of what fashion and art is. In the late 1960s, “deconstructionism” was coined by the French philosopher Jacques Derrida who named the process of breaking down established forms.
His idea was to contradict, challenge and destabilise the universal truth. Ironically, this rebellion against “fashion” results in this transformation of fashion, an innovative, obscure and intellectual design. The ideals of deconstruction can now be seen in varied cultural styles and areas like architecture and music. Deconstructed fashion is neither purely about philosophy nor about fashion. It is a different thinking of fashion. During the 1980s, deconstructed garments appeared on Paris runways in the work of Japanese designers such as Yohji Yamamoto and Rei Kawakubo, who presented black and grey garments created of distressed and worn textiles that enveloped rather than accentuated the body.Yohji Yamamoto gained a reputation as an unconventional feminist, stating his intentions to hide the bodies of women in order to protect their sexuality. Instead of being designed to flaunt the female silhouette, Yamamoto created utilitarian beauty that rejected the male gaze.
“For me, a woman who is absorbed in her work, who does not care about gaining one’s favour, strong yet subtle at the same time, is essentially more seductive. The more she hides and abandons her femininity, the more it emerges from the very heart of her existence” Yohji Yamamoto, Fall/Winter 1981 (left) Coat Maison Martin MargielaVogue Italia, 1997
Controversial origins originate from non-conventional thought process, and fashion is ultimately about breaking all conventions that we live in, whether it is the mini-skirts that tried breaking the conventions of female ‘modesty’ or the recent advertisement of Adidas Originals where the model, Arvida Bystrom is shown wearing lacy pastel shades, sport shoes and is shown with unshaved, unwaxed body hair – far from the image of ‘femininity’ in the conventional frame of the society. The deconstruction movement is a mockery yet a constructive one on the couture conventions, where the whole perception of perfection is being challenged. From Ashley Graham’s historymaking Sports Illustrated Swimsuit issue to Christian Siriano’s Spring 2017 runway show, the Dadaism of Contemporary fashion is not merely about the technical jargons of the garment construction but about the very foundations of the society. A parallel between the means of undoing construction – the liberation of garments from its function and the liberation of the mind form the societal convention can be drawn. .
Addidas Orignals Feminst Campaign (2017) (bottom) Ashley Graham Sports Illustrated Cover (Swimsuit Issue) (top)
The reason as to why the aesthetics of deconstructive garments have resurfaced; there are resonances between the political climate of today and that of the eighties. A right-wing government is in power and a recent recession is still fresh in public memory - these were the conditions within which the punk subculture was born. Some might even push the concept over to EcoFashion. Whether these political or ecological motives are actually the foundations of deconstruction or not there’s still something radical about showing unfinished garments that cost thousands on runways – raw, rebellious , revolutionary.
FASHION SHOW REVIEW Writing a review for the fashion show put across by the students of Fashion Communication, Semester 3.
Final sequence, Fashion designer’s inspired.
A Tribute TO FASHION or a Parody OF IT? A Juxtaposition of silhouettes and subcultures. The usual bustle at the college premises this Wednesday was replaced by a subtle excitement as the third semester fashion communication students were to display what they had learnt in the fashion basics module. Visual art - whether wearable or as a graphic, they all revolve around principles of design, which was the primary theme of the show. The show began with a one question “What is Fashion?”, and perhaps ended on that note too. The show was a mix of “Blacks” and “Whites” while some designs managed to triumph, some completely failed to move the audience. With a very descriptive and prolonged narration to each sequence, the show unfolded with a take on silhouettes, colors and textures. While the achromatic palette managed to lend the show a promising start, the vibrant yet wrinkled ribbons dashed the hopes of many. Following this was a history inspired sequence rococo fashion, goth sub-culture and the art deco movement, that failed to inspire despite a conceptual hold on the same. While, pastel colours driven, french fashion inspired look did not fail to impress, the Art Deco inspired textures and sillhouettes appeared tacky and unfinished. The tribute to Alexander McQueen - “the lady gaga of fashion” as described
by the presenter of the show and Dior was another quality attempt at justifying the designers. Despite of the lack of a class execution, the inspirations draw such as the Ivoryresin tusks by Shaun Leane or the tent skirt for Alexander McQueen was worth a praise. The show concluded with the entire team taking the stage, a diverse exhibit of Fashion - with each student styled with one fashion designer as a reference. Silhouettes (top left) , colours and textures (top right) , Goth sub-culture (right)
While some looks, stood out of the crowd, with easily recognisable fashion aesthetics - Coco Chanel, Rei Kawakubo, some tanked brutally - had the narrator who gave a wordsmart speech also specified who wore what. To conclude,it would be incorrect to say that the show was a failed attempt, it was a learning step for amateur fashionists who are trying to make sense of ‘fashion’ but need a direction that resonates with their idea of the word. Perhaps the execution could have been better thought after as well as the the
Alexander McQueen Inspired tent-dress.
musical synchronization with the choreography. The show wasn’t truly a tribute to fashion, instead was a parody - with a few winning designs camouflaged within many dissapointing ones.
Marie Antoinette inspired deisgn (Falling) right Subcultures inspired sequence (Bottom)
Final Sequence
Alexander McQueen inspired ivory tusks.
FASHION SHOW REVIEW Writing a review on 4 fashion shows shown in the class premises and supporting the same with visuals. Comme des Garcons Spring Summer and Fall Winter 2012 collections Maison Margiela’s 2017 Fall Winter and Spring Summer.
Condemning Fashion through Fashion. A deconstructed analysis
A critical take. An analytical deconstruction. Raw yet refined. Conceptually finished yet unfinished. Anti-Fashion. John Galliano and Rei Kawakubo through their work for Maison Margiela and Comme des Garçons take on conceptual clothing, wherein fashion is not just something that can be worn, or something that can be bought, it’s a platform, a lifestyle, a concept questioning its own integrity, a critical analysis beyond the surface, a medium of expression. With their own cultural influences, these designers create an aesthetic that blends art with fashion in different social and economic contexts.
The fall Winter collection on the other hand conveyed talked along on the lines of rather recent phenomena – a two-dimensional take on cliché prints and silhouettes – a satire on technological influence over fashion – the current state of the industry. If the fashion industry was happy with coverage that reduces its most elevated endeavours to two dimensions, then Rei was going to reduce the industry itself to an equally flat proposition – with cliché camo, leopard and polka dot prints. A Comme des Garçons runway show definitely has the ability to leave its viewer dizzy, inspired, depressed, elated.
With Comme des Garcons Spring Summer and Fall Winter 2012 collections, Rei Kawakubo features two very different concepts, yet bridging them together with this constant analysis, using Fashion as a medium rather than a concept. “White Drama” – Spring Summer collection – a showcase of different stages of life – birth, marriage, death and transcendence through extravagant silhouettes. An intense music set the show off to a rather retrospective start – in the light of the tragic Earthquake in Japan. With significant detail drawn to sleeves – long, wide, almost falling to the floor, thus highlighting construction of the garment, the structure rather than the finished piece, with cage like structures resembling Crinoline over the embroidered pleated dress.
Comme des Garcons Spring Summer (top 3) and Fall Winter (bottom 3) 2012
On the other hand, John Galliano, expressed his idea of the current scenarios through Maison Margiela’s 2017 Fall Winter and Spring Summer. With unfinished pieces and intentionally left over open lipsticks, palettes, paper cups over the set the circled around mirror make-up tables, John brought deconstruction to “fashion in haste” for the Fall Winter 2017 Collection. With models walking with what appeared to be shampoo foam, rather ripped, worn down or shredded pieces with unusual fabrics – the speed of glamor was hence questioned through this display of reimagined silhouettes. On the other hand, the Spring Summer 2017 collection drew references to contemporary youth consciousness filtered through social media apps. With pop-rainbow filters and faces drawn upon deconstructed garments – this collection highlighted the lack of emotional context around the current social scenarios faced by humanity. With elaborate pop facial makeup and headgear John drew contrast between unfinished cut-outs of the garment With current political, economic, social and technological scenarios, deconstruction is an escape, an outlet from the traditional fashion, taking the aesthetics of design to represent something beyond cliché patterns and motifs, to represent a concept, a rebellion against or for, to question and to celebrate the making rather than the finished – thus Condemning fashion through Fashion. Maison Margiela’s 2017 Fall Winter
Maison Margiela’s 2017 Spring Summer
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