India from the inside by Pradeep Pk Maheshwari

India from the Inside. An introductory booklet by: Traveler Helpline India. Phone 91-11-41730043 Text by Pradeep Maheshwari. Photographs have all been borrowed from the internet.

Finally the world is coming to the conclusion that Indiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s laziness has a point. This romance with â&#x20AC;&#x153;hurryâ&#x20AC;? that the world has shown where has it taken it? The time has come to think back to slow boat rides, slow cart travel and airships. I think we have much to gain by junking stress and removing noise and fumes from our lives. The farmer who knows to wait is never in a hurry. Being near to Nature he prefers the natural speed without the rumble of machinery, nauseating gases and loud noises.

Taxi anyone? Fresh Breeze? Sleep it off!

Life and traffic around the Charminar in Hyderabad. The epitome of our unorganised way of doings and refusal to organise. Strategic studies, Planning, Disciplined Practice, Managed efficiency and all such subjects are anathema to the Indian mind.

Religion Where are we on religion in India? No one really knows. Conquerors came from the North-West and called themselves Muslims & Christians. They called the locals Hindus. A term which did not exist before. We have Gods like Vishnu, Mahesh, Ganesh. Then Avatars like Krishna and Ram. Hundreds of Gurus & Revered Saints like Ramakrishna and Sankracharyas. Then we have the Planets Sun, Mars, Saturn, Pluto and Uranus that we are mortally afraid of. In addition we have the Vedas showing us the way and of course all the enlightened idiots that are spouting their own interpretations of it all. All the above have a code to live by, likes and dislikes and their followers follow these with great fear in their hearts. Nobody dares to incur their displeasure. So what we have is a people with a philosophy and every individual follows some aspect of it to fit in with his personal life and leanings. Our life-style and eating habits are based on geographical realities religion has nothing to do with it. You won't find one Hindu that thinks and behaves like another. Why? Because there is no set of rules telling what Hindu is. The whole separation is a political move. If you are born in India (Hindustan) you are a Hindu. Unless

you want another label like Muslim, Christian, Sikh, Parsi or Jew!

The temples have been more than just places of worship; specially for the women. This is the only spot they were allowed to go to outside their homes. This was the place where they went to be alone; far from the drudgery that awaited them. It was also where often eyes would meet. Things that could not be discussed in the confines of homes were discussed here. Information exchanged. Plans made. Even in present day society it is so.

Two of the biggest fears of India. The entire populace, virtually in every corner of India is terrorised by the thought of Saturn aspecting and present in their lives. Although he is seen as a hard taskmaster and no-pity teacher for one's good, the populace is terrified of His benevolence because it means tragic happenings, breakoffs and tough lessons of detachment. Simply too painful to think about. Horoscopes play a great part in India's decision making. The position of Saturn in 10

our horoscope has a total grip on our minds. The other second fear is the placement of Mars, specially in the horoscope of one's spouse. It verges on terror at the deep subconscious mind level. You should see people going bonkers on being told that the above 2 planets are malefically placed. From then on it becomes impossible to relate at a reasonable level with the person. Appeasing these planets then becomes the sole goal of life.

Painting of an ancient sage physician doing a procedure. Medical care in India. A French friend who was coming to India went to his French doctor before coming. The friend was told by this young doctor â&#x20AC;&#x201C; â&#x20AC;&#x153;oh you shall be well cared for there!â&#x20AC;? He was surprised to hear from the doctor that the best health care is to be found in India. Besides modern medicine and the fantastic emergency support and surgical assistance available in India, all the age-old medical knowledge too is widely available; be it Ayurvedic, Siddha, Unani, Homeopathic, Tibetan or Chinese and many other systems from the tribal belt that we are not even aware of. Additionally also other supportive science of yogic asanas, naturopathy, physiotherapy both local Indian and modern western, panchkarma detox, massage, acupuncture or Mumbo-Jumbo, including astrologically based medical solutions. Warning: Charlatans abound too.

In the 1930s life changed drastically for Indians. Cinema arrived. It soon became the centre of lives of Indians. It took them to worlds that they otherwise they could not even dream of. It permeated life. Even became bigger than life. What you see in the attitudes of Indians today, their thinking and behaviour patterns can be traced directly to the influence of the cinema since the last 4 generations. 13

To me it seems that most Indians have just dropped out of the screen!

It is a practice to blame all the ills on the American influence but this is a diversionary tactic. The truth is: We are responsible by continuously promoting through our cinema certain clichĂŠs over and over again. So in essence the message that has been passed on is: - It is alright to tease the ladies. - One song and dance sequence is all it takes to win them over. - People in authority prove themselves by being dictatorial, hurtful and they relax always with a whiskey in hand. - Rape is a sport of the strong and powerful - The police are jokers, unsympathetic and corrupt - Medical profession is magic of sorts.Their injections cure with magical effect. - The final aim of life is to get married. The day of and the ceremony of marriage is the most exalted, important and precious moment of one's life

Kolkata or Calcutta. The place where the British started their tryst with India. Now a bit of a lost corner to the world because of the long stint of rule by communist minded people who wanted everything for the labourer and state controlled. The businessmen soon fled. The economy crashed. The "labour" went back to their village ways. The Victoria Memorial still stands as grand as ever.

Never forgo a chance to have some coconut water. The coconut will be opened for you on the spot. You drink with a straw and then ask the seller to cut it open further and enjoy the fresh soft nutritious pulp inside. The best ever drink and food on earth.

Casteism and racial discrimination. Technically the concept of "class" is manmade. So it has nothing to do with truth. But that is how it is. Let us admit it. It is there. But t is like anywhere else. There are leaders that naturally lead and become kings and followers follow because it is in their interest to be in the wake of a good thing. We see it in a pack of dogs too. What is peculiar to India is the system of â&#x20AC;&#x153;separationâ&#x20AC;? of people on the basis of their professional work capability. And because there was no public school system, the children followed in the footsteps of their fathers and learnt their trade from their fathers alone. Possibilities and opportunities to escape this system were rare. This gave rise to the system of caste as we know today. It became rigid out of ego issues and let us admit again, habits and attitudes were also very different in each category + the necessity 18

of trade kept the people stuck in their conditions. Skin Colour became a serious issue. The people in the fields were exposed to the harsh sun, dust and all other elements all the time and their skins were darker and wrinkled. Whereas the people living a more protected life were fairer because they were mostly indoors. Those who did not have to work for a living were clearly standing out because of their delicate pearly looks.

This scenario only got worse with the coming of the fairer skinned Muslims and later the white skinned Europeans. To belong with the kingly class was an achievement of note. The tragedy is that at heart we want the system to continue. The upper class is not ready to give away its privileges and its snobbish standing as yet without a fight.

Foot wear. Your footwear shows your class. Anywhere in the world, this is so. Although there was not much variety in the style of footwear available in India the class showed by the quality of material that went into its making and the rich handiwork that set it apart. It is only in the late 1950s that Japanese rubber products started flooding the market and later exports necessitated a jump into design and research of better products. Today

Indiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s footwear industry is one of the best in the world. 21

Temples as a place of learning. Beautiful temples with detailed carvings are all depicting more than just Gods and Goddesses. You can see in stone all that the populace needed to know and learn. As the written word was not prevalent with the crowd, the messages were disseminated through these carvings and the priests would explain orally the subject.

Philosophy: We are all walking alone. Friends join us for short distances; the path with others is also a path to be traversed. 22

Travelling alone has nothing to do with people around you. It is the path you take. The Spirit, the Person within, the Thoughts are always impenetrable and you are always alone.

Indian classical music. There is a deep understanding in Indian music of the different notes and octaves to the emotions 23

and effects on the human persona. The combinations and permutations worked out by our ancients have been given names and today called "Raag". These are a specific combination of

notes upon which there are compositions that artists play out but the main thing in Indian style is that the artist is allowed to improvise and add his personal touches. Most of the Raags have intense curative effects on states like insomnia, depression, loneliness, SAD symptoms and problems.

Here are pics of the two well know and personally liked artists playing the Sarod and Sitar., two instruments that I love to listen to. But the real music comes out in singing with its limitless possibilities. And one of the greatest living singers today is Ajoy Chakraborty. One the recent living 25

saints in music has been Bhimsen Joshi. Their ability to transpose you into another world is legendary. 26

Heaven as visualised by the Moghuls had water as the central theme. Specially considering that they had arrived here in the Gangetic plains from rather arid areas of Persia and beyond.

Their love of beautiful things gave us beautiful buildings, pieces of art, gardens, and our distinctive classical music; and the beautiful language - URDU with mannerisms, code of behaviour to match. Here is a photo of a small fountain in the palace of the Red Fort in Delhi. What a relief it must have been with the desert winds from the Rajasthan desert howling outside in 40c+ heat. 28

Indiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s roots go very far in the past. I believe most of our mythological history, stories and scientific discoveries started in Crete or around and Egyptian /Middle Eastern lands. Indian genius may have refined and upgraded it all but it is not the cradle of civilisation as we are apt to believe. The origins of the snake, bull, many terms have imprints from there long before our time.

For instance there are records showing that Yoga Began In Africa (Ancient Egypt). It is a little-known fact that Yoga first began in

Africa, specifically Kemet (ancient Egypt). Yoga, which means union, is for everybody.

The dress worn for Haaj pilgrimage is the same as that worn by priests in Indian temples even today and has roots in temples of cultures in many lands. See these photos.

Images of the haircut that Indian priests have are found in ruins in Turkey and almost all old cultures sport it. I am taking of the Sikha. The sikha is a long tuft, or lock of hair left on top or on the back of the 30

shaven head of a male Orthodox Hindu. Though traditionally all Hindus were required to wear a Ĺ&#x203A;ikhÄ , today it is seen mainly among Brahmachari, 'celibate monks' and temple priests.

In India saying it through Dance has been a very usual method of conveying stories and messages. There are many dance forms but the most spectacular is the Kathakali from Kerala.

They speak with colours, elaborate costumes, live mask forms and minimal 31

action of the hands and eyes that is "finesse" at its most refined.

Making the dust fly to other destinations. Every Time our street is swept, I have to clean the dust off my car and walls outside have to be given a wash Not in thousands but in millions - come to take a dip in the confluence of the three rivers at the Sangam in Allahabad for the Kumbh Mela.

The Railway is India's lifeline. People go to their jobs from far away towns. 33

Vendors bring in their produce from far away villages. Here is a scene from the morning Vendor/Milk Train that feeds Delhi every morning.

Street food. The pros and cons. The food is always very great tasting but we 34

need to be wary of the ingredients that go into it. We must accept the fact that the cheapest materials will go into it after all they are to make money. For example the cooking oil, the spices and even the basic rice and wheat grains or/and vegetables used are rarely the very best. Mostly the oils are overheated and often reheated many times over. They normally use the hydrogenated variety which is not good if you eat out in these joints regularly. The water is a big question. None of these joints have running water so the utensils may not be very clean and the water quality used in cooking or washing of vegetables is also suspect. I now eat if at all very hot piping food only that has been prepared in front of me hoping that the heat treatment would have destroyed all the infectious elements. I avoid the spiced add-ons like chutney and sauces to be on the safe side. The variety of culinary expertise available in India is mind boggling even for an Indian. Every known culture seems to be represented and has spread all over. Here 35

are two of my favourite fast foods. One is from south of India and the other from the north.

Then talking of favourites, the rosogolla and sandesh along with lutchi from the east is too good to give it a miss. The cuisine from the desert areas of the west from Gujarat and Rajasthan has a totally different touch; their dhokla and matthis are a byword in Indian snacks.

Fast food, fresh and filling Dosas; originally of south India but now found everywhere.

Architecture and Homes. India has followed its ancient treatises which are known as Vastu principles in its building 39

trade. The method and science of every possible consideration is explained in detail.

Even the different kind of buildings, building material to be used and all are something our architects knew well. The different geographical locations had their own variations. Talk to any Vastu expert of the east, west, north or south and they will give you suggestions that are in practice in their area but at variance with each other. Yet Vastu shastra is a very interesting subject as it bridges Interior Design with Astrology and 40

the combination makes for wonderful stories and you are left wondering to believe or not. Beauty and functionality has always been the hallmark of the Indian building trade.

A visit to India is not complete without a visit to Jaipur and its Amer Fort cum residence. Going up the royal way using elephants can be quite an experience. I think the elephant should have been our national animal. It is more in line with our character and thinking. Our most popular god is Ganesh isn't it? Why was this form found to be the most suitable to represent HIM? The elephant is intelligent, strong, yet kind and helpful but slow and never in a hurry not easily affected by anything. But when enraged his slow lumbering gait transforms into a thunderous storm at which stage it becomes impossible to get to him in anyway; precisely very Indian. Please visit us at: http://travelerhelplineindia.weebly.com/

A great amount of knowledge has percolated to the public through regular use without change over the centuries. There is a whole universe of knowledge hidden, as yet undiscovered in our palm leaf books and other scrolls.

This is to be seen as Indians doing everything as “Tradition” and “Custom” and this is where things get dangerous as people who do not have the precise knowledge or education, like in medicine or building hurt themselves with selfmedication or unsafe buildings. Considering our practice of joint families where the head of the family takes all decisions, things often go out of hand and end in disaster. 43

There is something to be said of the original Indian ethos but spoilt by the West- Asian influence. This culture came to India with the Afghans first and Mughals later. Then more recently transformed into the rigid sharia form.

But it is also true that Muslim indoctrination is very deep and Muslim parents and Ulemas go to great length to keep the youngsters away from exposure to the wider world. This makes them rather rigid when older and easy prey for rabble rousers. The only place where this has not worked well is 44

India. The Hindu gave them a taste of their decadent â&#x20AC;&#x153;comfortâ&#x20AC;? life-style and confused them totally Spiritual attainment?

Looks more like a life lost. The only thing acquired would be the long 45

hairs, some small powers and a lot of arrogance. Yet something to be proud of. It shows another way of life and adds colour to life in India.

When travelling in south India one soon realises that this has been a culture of simple living. But the Gopurams, entry gate to the temples are where their creativity explodes. A more restrained explosion of art and colour can be seen also in their festive clothes and jewellery but then you may not always get a chance to see those unless you are invited to a wedding.

The highlight of life outside the cities is the occasional Fair that comes to an area. Besides being able to buy fineries of all kinds, live-stock and all the new products, these fairs offer a change of setting in colourful, excited environment. A needed break from the usual lack-lustre of everyday & you have business possibilities as well as fun and frolic of all dimensions. It is rural life of 80% of India in focus.

Colonial period bungalows. Beautifully simple in their construction, made for comfort in the blazing heat of India 48

for a period when there was no cooling of any kind. High roofs and cross ventilation made them wonderful places to live in. India has them all over the places but they are quietly disappearing and a great many of them have been abandoned which hurts me greatly. Modern exigencies have shadowed the relaxed living style. Most of these bungalows were built on a lot of land around them. Many owners have started building on the land around them and are now hemmed in by modern matchbox monstrosities and lost to view.

One of the gifts of the British to India is the Hill stations that they made for their use in the summer months; where the families at least would spend the entire summer. The men still in the plains would be called grass widowers and somehow manage with their whiskey/soda and gin & tonic. The schools would close for over 2 months then and this style is followed by Indians too. Here is a picture from Darjeeling, the centre for the famous tea.

The beauty of the landscape is refreshing but today with everybody travelling, it is overcrowded.

Indian Temples, Mosques, Gurudwaras and many Ashrams have always served food to pilgrims and everyday huge cooking pots are to be seen being used to cook for hundreds, even thousands of people at a time. You can gauge the size of pots from this photo of a child enjoying a dip in this 51

terrible summer. - And this is a smaller of the pots that we often see.

The train. One thing that we shall be always thankful to the British is their technical advancements and the railways that they brought in. A beautiful network crisscrossing the country brought all the corners into each other's notice like no other time in history.

Soon the Railway Station was a very 52

important place in town. People would go there for their morning tea. They were reputed to be having the best restaurants against virtually none in town. People even went there for walks in the morning as these were the only clean stretches to be found.

From the classical well-being philosophy, India is a natural disaster spot. Its various different geographical regions with different seasons give rise to regular floods, storms and water deficient areas. It is like an old record playing over and over again. January - The chill and cold wave will destroy crops and kill hundreds. It is snowing in the hills while people are sea bathing in the south. March April - Hailstorms will destroy standing crops May June - No water, lands go dry but in the east rivers start flooding. The hot winds from the desert in the west give heat-strokes â&#x20AC;&#x201C; keep your head well covered or/and 53

insulated. July August The monsoon throws life out of gear and it is - water, water everywhere along with water borne diseases and transport/communications all affected. The heat and humidity are so bad that even surgeries are avoided in this period because wounds heal slower. Then starts the disaster months in the south. Storms on the east coast. Delhi is at the centre and affected by all of the above.

The natural beauty of Indian landscape can keep you enthralled. All you need to do is to have the courage to travel away from the attached bathroom/air conditioned culture.

The perfume industry is a highly developed and refined one in India although not a very organised one as everything else. The Mughals gave it a lot of importance. Presently it is highly concentrated in Kannauj and Hyderabad. 55

The traditional Indian perfumes are known as ITTARS. Concentrated, oil based perfumes that are essential oil based. Perfumes are part of our Unani medicine lore too. This came to India with the Persian/Arab culture. India's Sandal wood oil is a prized item in the world's perfume industry.

A beautiful artistic shot of two wrestlers trying to come to grips in a traditional wrestling championship

The Kulfi No Indian meal is complete without a serving of Indian ice-cream - the kulfi! Kulfi holds a special place in Mughal cooking. This great dessert has been altered to no end in today's world to give you all flavours of kulfi. Here is an authentic version made 57

with loads and loads of health giving exotic nuts and flavoured with saffron and cardamom.

Ingredients/preparation a few saffron (kesar) strands 1/4 cup warm full-fat milk 1 tbsp cornflour 4 cups full-fat milk 5 tbsp sugar 1/4 tsp cardamom (elaichi) powder 1/2 cup chopped almonds , cashewnuts and pistachios Combine the saffron and warm milk in a small bowl, mix well and keep aside. 58

Combine the cornflour and 2 tbsp of water in a small bowl, mix well and keep aside. Heat the milk in a deep non-stick pan on a medium flame for 5 to 7 minutes, while stirring occasionally. Add the cornflour-water mixture, mix well and cook on a medium flame for 32 minutes, while stirring occasionally while scrapping the sides of the pan. Allow the mixture to cool completely. Once cooled, add the cardamom powder, saffronmilk mixture and dry fruits and mix well. Pour into 6 kulfi moulds and freeze overnight. To unmould, allow the moulds to remain outside the refrigerator for 5 minutes and then unmould by inserting a wooden skewer stick or a fork in the centre of the kulfi and pulling it out. Serve immediately.

India has artisans in every nook and cranny of the country. Every kind of raw material that is found locally is used to make beautiful pieces of art since nearly the beginning of known recorded civilisation. Even specialised metallurgical knowledge existed to create alloys like panchdhatu â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 60

alloy of gold, silver, copper,zinc and tin. Unfortunately they are repeating the same themes, with minor changes but in the same style as adopted by their forefathers in the name of tradition; generation after generation - centuries after centuries. One sees nothing new from the art-work of the 6th century and now. Kills the value of antiques in my eyes

Indians are great optimists. The Lord is with them. Things will go a set course because it has been so envisioned and willed. Total and complete wishful thinking is built into the grand design of things. Safety as a component of life simply doesn't bother anyone. Accidents don't deter Indians. Cheating is so much in our character that we don't realise when we are cheating our own self. This is also a reason why we never learn from experience as we keep on rationalising all the mishaps and if at all a hint of possibility exist, we blame others with no second thought.

The roads and the traffic are a clear view into the culture of a people. How we drive and how we behave in traffic is a perfect indicator or our thinking that is there for all to see.

India still follows the traditional by the land, from the land, to the land economy and agriculture system. Happy, quiet, unburdened by noise, pollution and money hassles.

The Hawaii Chappal

The Japanese revolution in India In the late 50s, for the first time, Indian saw cheap footwear made from synthetic material enter the Indian market. This was the Hawaiian flip-flop called chappal here. The material was light, soft and easy on the feet. They gave a comfort in walking that Indians had never known before. After fifty years the design is still here and made the same way as it was then, Suddenly in a country of predominantly barefoot villagers, we started seeing even hardy villagers wearing these Hawaii. It was affordable luxury saving the foot from fatigue and pain. The footwear industry in India took off like a rocket. I remember buying a blue pair for Rs 2 or so 60 years ago. As they were made of foam rubber, one day after the rains, I saw them floating away with the rain water. Luckily the drain was properly covered.

Pani puris the most eaten evening break. With three delicious water choices and vegetable/chutney choices as filling, it is irresistible. Made properly with high grade spices and ingredients it is considered a detox food par excellence. But unscrupulous vendors also exist. Once we went to eat pani-puri with a south Indian family. I tasted the water first and did not like it. And said so. I felt that chemicals have been used to sharpen the taste. The woman with us did not agree to me. She ate some. She 65

ended with a sore throat by late evening which became a throat and lung infection by next day. I admit most people have reasonably stout constitutions and can resist most of the time but people coming from abroad are specially are prone to easy infections as their bodies are not resistant to the bacteria found here. Indians most probably would not be affected. But the Helpline is aiming at giving out information to travellers who are not so knowledgeable of how things are done in India. Locals everywhere know how things happen in their area but even when we Indians travel within India we may not be aware of the practices followed in other areas. As for anything happening or not happening, I had food poisoning in France!So?!! What the Indians normally think of as Indian delicacies, like the Jalebi, Gulab Jamun are specialities that have come to India from Turkey/Iran/Afghanistan cultures many centuries ago. Also breads like naan etc.

From this dress one can gauge the extent of the Arabian-Turkish-Iranian influence in Indian life. This is a typical court (belly) dancer. It has now become part of our fashionable dressing styles.

The British called it the Sepoy Mutiny. I see it as an allergic reaction to a deeper malaise. I see it as a rebellion against strategy and disciplined action while the Indian psyche is basically lethargic and believes in leaving the "action" to Lord 68

Vishnu. We are good at sloganeering and waving swords. The British came and with a handful of soldiers who knew how to hold their ground and with better firearms starting winning battles with small kings and taking over the kingdoms. Their military was organised and disciplined while the Indian armies although larger in numbers were nothing more than armed hordes.

They then recruited Indian sepoys and trained into the same disciplined ways and used them to win their wars for them. This did not go well with the local rulers who 69

were rather busy enjoying their God given status of kings. So they were able to rouse the rebels to go against the British but unfortunately could not control or organise the hordes to fight in unison.

When Sen-Raleigh opened shop in India nearly a century ago and made good sturdy bicycles available in India they changed India's history. They gave wheels to a people who were never really defeated. The wheels allowed them to venture farther and farther to exchange goods and services.... AND thoughts. Later the introduction of the Vespa scooter took this momentum even farther.

Many practices and beliefs are based on the influence of the tantric tradition of India. Tantra is the study of the occult and the unseen forces that are working through humans and Mother Nature. The fear and belief in its invincibility is deep. In sickness or personal problems we rely on tantrics to help us out, and by my personal experience I can say it helps and it matters.

Waiting for their morning cuppa

Vegetables being brought to the market. We love images of the countryside, and dream of the lush greenery, water bodies, sunsets and sunrises - yet the truth and reality is this: first grow them in difficult circumstances, then carry them to the market, sit the whole day to sell them and come home with grocery bought with the money and cook food for the family.

Interesting to note that he does not have a mirror for his clients to admire themselves. Instead the time in the chair is made out as a moment of meditation by focusing on Mother Durga. What a lovely setting for the barber's shop and morning prayers.

Understanding this difference can make a real difference to your travels in a place like India as it will enhance your pleasure of travel and interaction – because then you will understand how we are sensitive to “not to be found in error” – making us evasive, never coming directly to the point. Not really insincere but afraid to commit. Hinting at the belligerence in our attitudes, I must say that we show our cock-sureness in just about everything. The ego shows through even in the asking of simple questions. I notice that people rarely ask questions. They make a statement and ask for confirmation. Example: This path does not go to the taxi stand? And if you tell them "are you telling me or asking me" they will become defensive and say “oh I was only asking”. How the above statement could ever be construed as a question – if you bring it up as an argument you are in for a long haul.

Where are the washrooms? There aren't any! This is one reason for which I thank the franchise places like Mac's, Coffee Day, Starbucks etc because they not only provide refreshments but also washroom that are clean - and respite from the heat/dust/noise. Though you have to buy something to be welcome there. Whole market places are made with glitzy shops but there wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be provision for a washroom. It is conveniently forgotten in the 76

scheme of things. The citisisation where thousands of migrant workers come to work for daily wages with no permanent address creates a mammoth problem of utilities. It is no wonder that all shadowy corners, the vast open places and any source of water then has to do. Go out shopping and you will realise the truth of my assertion.

This can be a very usual scene on the highways where public transport between towns-villages is not good and people travel quite long distances to go to work or study first thing in the morning. If you are in a car, avoid these and keep a distance; play safe.

Waiting for customers. Don't pay attention to the bull/cow anywhere. They are there as the representative of the Gods and considered as a good omen. Canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t blame the animals as it can be quite hot out there. These scenes are seen more in the south of India.

Yesterday I was visited by two young volunteers of CRY. The question: What can we do to save the girl child from abuse? I think the first thing we need to do is to stop birthing them for personal reasons mainly as items of income later. This is something nobody is ready to accept that the girl child is seen as a source of income and is totally helpless in the male dominated society. The girl child brings money in three steps. First as a labourer . Second as a sex slave. Third as a wife servant for life. Nothing short of draconian measures, like taken in China will stop this.

It requires a certain abandon, to live the unconcerned life. This is what makes India great but also makes it totally without a sense of discipline. It also makes us rather unconcerned about improving our lot. Therefore planning, circumspection and intelligent management is mostly absent from our lives.

A cup of tea. The any-time refresher and conversation starter. Disposable earthen cups give a gardenish fresh-rain flavour.

The necessity to take off footwear while going into temples or any other place of 83

worship poses its own problems. Where to leave the vehicle one has come on and the footwear? Both tend to be easily misappropriated by more needy ones. So even though we are hoping and praying for a greater, happier and wealthier life, it is also good not to forget the immediate now.

There are weekly markets in many areas. A throwback back to the times when Delhi was a tiny place and the villages around it were catered by itinerant sellers on fixed weekly days. We are regular frequenters. You can often get wonderful bargains. This seller here is selling surplus manufactured items bought from factories directly. If you can find a piece that suits you get it at less than half price of the original

Lets us start the day with a morning cuppa. The favourite pick-me-up of north India, in winters it is downed in cup after cup. Offering a cuppa is like saying good morning and hullo. A cuppa tea is normally available for Rs 5. While the branded places sell for 50 or more. No chance they will ever take-over the small guyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s business. India doesn't care about the crowded jostling, dirt, smoke and flies. The basic cost is what matters. These franchised branded outlets donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t stand a chance. Their customers are the upper middle class snobs but that is only 5-6 % of the population

The stories they recount are fantastic. I ask myself, are these stories to help humanity evolve into something better or to bring in cash for the priests and temple from the gullible who go back feeling spiritually superior as the pilgrims who arrived.

Is God male or female...? Black or white or formless or veg or non-veg? Inane, futile waste of energy questions. At the physical, material level a separation to create individualism, entities was needed, so this distinction of male and female of the species was required. People, whose minds are yet at this level but want to discuss spirituality, end up with religion and arguments of this nature for they see not the integral commonness.

And they are the first to bear arms and 88

ready for blood-shed to an end that I have never understood. The only big difference is that in European life, the everyday life and religion have two distinct separate compartments while in the east the faith and religion have fashioned their lifestyle. So it is best to be circumspect. When tourists come here, I notice them to be trying to be kind and nice, even terribly polite. People do not really understand the effort that is being put in to be understanding and helpful; often even giving advice. The locals see only a gullible foreigner who could sentimentally be provoked to part with some extra funds or even goods. From a distance it seems as if they are being condescending to help the lesser fortunate. This is actually rather resented.

In India you are never alone. It is good to remember that it pays to NOT attract too much attention. It is also true that our social taboos have made us quite a frustrated lot.

It is a wonder that nobody advised this lady to take off her footwear. It is considered an insult to the food the way her sandals are floating over the food and also why bring the dirt near your food?

The pleasure of going to school in some remote places where there are no roads or bridges this is how children reach school 91

A beautiful contrast of the princely life and the peasants who survive it all. Nothing brings you down to earth like living in India where the contrasts are heart rending, reminding us forever that we are only not-so-important visitors here.

One of the +point of India is the choices of weather, geographical variety and selections of landscape it offers along with the myriad cultures of a colossal time frame starting from the 40000 years old Andaman tribes to the most modern Americanised version of Delhi's truants. The Indian nation has been influenced by the South East Asian Chinese cultures in the east, the Mongols in the north, the Pathanic-Iranian in the west, the Arabic 93

African in the south and all the persecuted religions of the world found refuge here.

There is no doubt that travellers from highly mentalised, stressed structures of living find India at first a little disorienting but eventually realise it is the very lack of fences that make it the place where you can be yourself and shed your stress.

There is a hidden underlying streak of belligerence. Don’t tell me I didn’t warn you. Understanding this difference can make a real difference to your travels in a place like India as it will enhance your pleasure of travel and interaction – because then you will understand how we are sensitive to “not be found in error” – making us evasive, never coming directly to the point. Hinting at the belligerence in our attitudes, I must say that we show our cock-sureness in just about everything. The ego shows through even in the asking of simple questions. I notice that people rarely ask questions. They make a statement and ask for confirmation. Example: This path does not go to the taxi stand? And if you tell them "are you telling me or asking me" they will become defensive and say “oh I was only asking” and criticise you for nit picking and not being helpful; after a;;, all considered, they did not cause you any irreparable hurt or harm! Did they?

How the above statement could ever be construed as a question â&#x20AC;&#x201C; if you bring it up as an argument you are in for a long haul.