We check out Millstream Chichester National Park

3 JEWEL in the PILBARA'S CROWN

By Chris Morton

Growing up, Millstream was one of those places that my parents always spoke about visiting. It was a destination worthy of any bucket list. Stories of outback waterholes conjured childhood images of an adventure worthy of any explorer’s diary and created a sense of excitement and anticipation. Sadly, it wasn’t until I reached adulthood that I was eventually able to visit.

Heading south, we had left Port Hedland early in the morning. We were working to a pretty tight schedule but were adamant that we would be able to squeeze in a quick overnight stay at Millstream. We turned off the North West Coastal Highway onto the RoebourneWittenoom Road which would take us directly to Python Pool. Less than 10km down the track, we came across a great little campsite on what looked like a permanent pool of water. The sign told us this was Inthanuna Pool on Warambie Station. There were a variety of campsites available with several other travellers taking advantage of the tranquil location. If you're interested in staying here, call Warambie Station on 08 9184 5137.

The gravel road was in pretty good condition with only the odd patch of corrugations. The surrounding countryside was quite impressive, with sweeping plains and juxtaposed rock formations rising from the earth. Previous rains were still evident by the amount of surface water still present, giving the flat areas an almost rice-paddy look to them. Hitting the boundary of the national park heralded a change in road conditions. The corrugations got a little more frequent, however the addition of some bitumen sections on the curvy bits of road were welcome.

Inthanuna Pool on Warambie Station.

Python Pool

The car park doesn’t give much away. Squeezing the LC200 and caravan into a space that would allow us some hope of getting back out again, we grabbed our camera gear and headed off on the short, 200m return walk along the dry creek bed to the pool.

Set at the base of an impressive rock formation, Python Pool would have to be an amazing sight in the wet season. Evidence of the torrents of water cascading over the lip of the rock into the deep pool below are everywhere. Debris can be seen stuck in the trees and bushes as you make your way along the trail. A small, rocky beach perches precariously along the edge of the dark waters, which are quite inviting in warmer weather. We didn’t have time for a swim, but we did manage to take some drone footage and photos. One of the other visitors even volunteered to go back into the water and 'model' for us, floating in the water. Like many of the other locations we get to visit, this is the perfect place to sit in the shade for a while and just absorb the surroundings. For those more adventurous, there is also the Cameleers Trail, which offers a 4km return hike. This 90-minute walk is classed as moderately difficult over uneven, rocky surfaces. Python Pool would be even more inviting after that walk. Back at the car park, we needed to negotiate our departure with several other visitors, so after employing some basic Tetris skills (see Mum, all that time spent playing on the computer as a kid was not wasted), we got back on the road. The section of road between Python Pool and Warlu Road was like hitting your thumb with a hammer at the exact moment you have discovered you just won the lotto. The winding road revealed stunning views at almost every turn and you really needed to stop and just soak them in. The road also delivered corrugations like I have never experienced before. The sort of corrugations that made you want to weep with despair, while contemplating whether you really did need your vehicle and would it be easier to just get out and walk. We have since heard rumours that a grader may have made a passing visit to rectify this.

It's only a short walk into Python Pool.

Python Pool.

Millstream

Once we hit Warlu Road and then turned off onto Millstream Road, we were glad we hadn’t abandoned the vehicle. Pulling into the campground, we discovered that our booking had been made for the previous day. The camp host took us over to the Ranger Station, where an encapsulated iPad was available, complete with an internet connection, which allowed us to book and pay for our night’s stay on a still available site. NB: National Parks where there is a Ranger Station have OPTUS coverage. If you are using the big T or any other carrier, it is worth grabbing a pre-paid SIM that you can use in your phone or device to give you some level of communication. With our booking sorted, we proceeded to set up home for the night and unhitch. We still had plenty of daylight, so we headed out to Deep Reach Pool to explore. This is a spring fed body of water and tends to hang around all year. The bird life is phenomenal, and the attraction is well-equipped with a

Excerpt from Hema’s Pilbara map.

substantial car park and toilets. Picnic benches and interpretive signage is everywhere and there are several spots with steps that take you down into the water. It's a great spot to put a kayak in the water and really go exploring. Easy access into Deep Reach Pool.

Heading back to the main camp site, we detoured and took in the views from the Cliff Lookout. From here you can look down on the waterway, getting a bird’s eye view of the water’s edge and the surrounding landscape. Make sure you keep an eye out for the little lizards that inhabit the area. They aren’t shy and are happy to pose for a photo or two if you ask them. The original homestead now offers visitors a glimpse into the pastoral past of Millstream and the interpretive walk trails explains the resourcefulness of the Yinjibarndi people.

The view from Cliff Lookout.

Unfortunately, the Murlamunyjunha Trail walk was closed, awaiting repairs from previous inclement weather which had caused significant damage to the walkway and small bridges. We hope it will be open when we next visit. When travelling around the state with our unique signage on the side of our vehicle, we are always bound to run into a subscriber and Millstream didn’t let us down. Friends of friends wandered over for a chat around happy hour before we got dinner organised. An overnight stay was not nearly long enough to get the most of our visit, however commitments in Karratha meant that we had to be on the road early. The drive back to the coast was another one filled with stunning landscapes and rock formations as we followed the train line.

INFORMATION BAY

Best time to go: Late autumn to early spring. Terrain: Roads in the Park are suitable for two-wheel drive vehicles only in dry weather and may be impassable after heavy rain and/or cyclonic events. Accommodation options: Camping areas at Millstream are Miliyanha and Stargazers Campgrounds and online bookings are essential. Miliyanha is a generator friendly campground and suitable for all vehicles. Stargazers is strictly a non-generator site and very large vehicles should proceed to Miliyanha. For more information: https://parks.dpaw.wa.gov.au/park/ millstream-chichester Park entry fees can be paid at park entry points and in the camping areas. Fees may also be collected by Park staff.

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