Coastal foraging at Hearson Cove

1The beach at Hearson Cove is quite unique. Evidence of monster tides are everywhere, clear by the dramatic angle of the stone and shell covered beach and the high-water mark. On one side, a striking, rocky headland dominates the skyline, on the other, a modern-day gas refinery. We had come out to the local favourite to meet up with Clinton Walker of Ngurrangga Tours to take part in his Staircase to the Moon tour.

A WALK on the WILD SIDE

By Chris Morton

The location of the tour at high tide, showing Hearson Cove at the top, the ancient fish trap just below, and Green Island at the bottom.

It was obvious from the moment we met that Clinton is passionate about sharing his knowledge. He has lived here for most of his life and the land is part of him. The first part of our tour was an introduction to coastal foraging. As it was low tide, we were able to walk out beyond the beach and around the headland, listening to Clinton share stories of his childhood and beyond. Reef shoes are a must as there is always the possibility of having a close encounter with a stonefish. I made sure that I resorted to my normal 'beach wear' and hit the flats still wearing my hiking boots and long pants. Just around the headland, Clinton stopped us and pointed out what appeared to be just a series of rock piles sticking out into the water. As he described the sight, it quickly became apparent that we were in fact standing in an ancient fish trap, constructed over 5,000 years ago. To reinforce its effectiveness, he effortless scooped out a sizeable mud crab and pointed out multiple fish swimming around within the trap.

Beach wear? Don't care. Ancient fish trap, still effective today.

Clinton with his freshly-caught mud crab. Hearson Cove at low tide.

Further along, we arrived at a small rocky island known as Green Island. A favourite for turtles, the rock provided refugee for multitudes of fish and other aquatic species, including a feared stonefish. Clinton was able to show us its barbs up close and talk about the painful effects of the poison within them. As we started to lose the light, we turned around and headed back to the beach. Make sure you have a good torch with you as you will need it (I am talking torch, not a head lamp). Stepping into the occasional hole proved to be a source of entertainment for the entire tour as we raced the tide. Back on dry land, with the water draining from my boots, we sat on the lip of the beach, hoping for a glimpse of the Stairway to the Moon. On this occasion the cloud was too thick for us and we were not able to enjoy the stunning display. The gas refinery next door tried to make up for it with the glow from its flare stack. Next time.

INFORMATION BAY

For bookings or for more info on Ngurrangga's guided tours of the Pilbara, go to: www.ngurrangga.com.au

Explaining the painful effects of stepping on a stonefish.

Clinton taught us a lot about coastal foraging as we walked around the headland.