We head east of Marble Bar and discover some beautiful locations

Ancient GORGES &

As our convoy left the tiny oasis of Marble Bar and headed east towards Telfer along the Ripon Hills Road, the landscape was one of undulating formations backdropped by a brilliant blue sky. The road itself was bitumen and was a pleasure to drive. Heading east was exciting, if not a little daunting. There were no towns in front of us, just some scattered mine sites, a couple of stations and a few communities. Modern civilisation was rapidly falling away behind us. We were well stocked with food, water and fuel. We had two wellmaintained vehicles and multiple methods of communication if we needed to call for help. The 160 kilometres quickly clicked by as we took advantage of the sealed road and we were soon at the turn-off to Carawine Gorge. The presence of mine sites almost always guarantees a decent road. The track into the gorge is in pretty good nick, dusty with some corrugations in parts, but an easy drive. About halfway in, we noticed a very shiny formation off to our right. A few minutes were spent debating what it might be before we came to a track that would take us to the Glacier Rocks. The rock formation is evidence of an ancient ice glacier moving through here. The rocks have been worn down to such a level that they reflect the light like glass. We continued our drive to Carawine, turning off at the cattle yards and following the track until it lead us to the banks of the Oakover River. The banks of the river were in bad shape. Previous heavy rain had resulted in a huge amount of water passing through here, the height of the torrent clear by the debris caught in the trees. We

Stunning outlook from our camp on Skull Springs Road.

Desert

By Chris Morton

WATERHOLES

The smooth surface of these rocks shows evidence of an ancient ice glacier moving through this area. Photo: Ian Armitt

had originally planned to stay here for a night but as we started to have a look for a suitable site for our caravan and camper trailer, it became quickly obvious that we were out of luck. Now, we could have set up close to other sites, however, the entire purpose of coming out here is not to be in the pocket of your fellow travellers. The kids got to stretch their legs and Karen had a good walk exploring down river. Something to note: If we had continued straight on at the cattle yards, we still would have arrived at the gorge but would have encountered a large area of river stones. These stones can be quite precarious if towing a heavier van and tend to behave like a pile of marbles. Carawine itself is an amazing feature. The deep, permanent pool of water harbours several fish varieties including Perch and Barramundi. The gorge is located on the Oakover River and is the perfect spot to spend some time soaking up the ambience, having a paddle in the water or just relaxing in the shade. It was getting late in the afternoon so we were soon back in the cars, heading for our alternate overnight stop, Running Waters, approximately 30km away. Passing in between the Twin Sisters we continued on 18km until the bitumen ended, turning onto Skull Springs Road. Just over 5km down the road we come back to the Oakover River and were confronted with multiple water crossings. For Chad and his family, this would be their first. Evidence of the raging waters that had passed through were everywhere. It still amazes me to think of the amount of water that can fall here and how quickly these sleepy water courses spring back to life. The first rule of any water crossing is don’t if it can be avoided. In our case there was no alternative. The second rule of any water crossing is sending your youngest child across first. Well ok, she volunteered and quickly sprung out of the back seat

BEWARE! Bull sharks have been spotted at Carawine Gorge.

Excerpt from Hema’s Pilbara map.

to expertly check the water depth and foundation tolerances by running and dancing through the water, phone in hand. If you don’t capture it on camera it didn’t happen, right? The crossing was in good condition and the water level low, so putting our vehicles into manual select, second gear (we were already in 4WD after turning onto the gravel), we made our way across. The gravel was soft and required a little encouragement with the right foot, but not much. The second crossing was a little deeper and again after confirming with her mother (for some reason she doesn’t always believe me), that there were in fact NO crocodiles lurking in the river, the youngest again went ahead and conducted her survey. The water here was slightly deeper, with only a slightly steeper departure on the opposite bank. More photos and video, with Chad even feeling confident enough to stop mid- water to give his family a thrill.

Crossing the Oakover River.

Our journey continued, Running Waters was only a few kilometres up the road. The road surface here was still pretty good, but you need to take it easy. The turn off jumps up out of nowhere but if you do overshoot, there is a second entrance less than a kilometre further along. The track in is single lane and it might be a good idea to broadcast on channel 40 as you enter, just in case there are vehicles coming out. It is quite windy and drops into gullies, offering some steeper climbs. Take your time and preserve your vehicle. Upon arrival, we chose to walk in to see what was available. It is a steep descent into the small valley that Running Waters calls home, filled with ghost gums and paperbarks. There were already two caravans parked up on the biggest site, so we chose the only site capable of taking both vehicles, top and tailing them in against the bottom of the ridgeline. The light was starting to fade so we had a quick explore further in to find this magical place we had been told so much about.

As is my custom, I wandered around saying hi to our fellow travellers and listening to and sharing experiences, a great source of knowledge of what might lay ahead. Dinner was prepared and some time spent star gazing before my swag beckoned (I had been relegated to the swag by our youngest daughter while in Karijini due to her getting too cold). Laying in the swag was a great time for quiet contemplation, listening to the gentle breeze whisper through the trees, ghostly gums almost glowing in the darkness. It is only when you stop that everything comes into focus. The next morning the kids could hardly contain their excitement. We were going swimming. Swimming in the Australian outback, not far from the black stump, on the edge of a desert. Who would have thought it? There is vehicle access right up to the water’s edge at Running Waters, with several travellers having set up along the bank, the ultimate water view. The pool of water itself has multiple sources, with the water literally running in from everywhere you looked. Warm water bubbles up through a rock crevice, further feeding its magical properties. Paperbarks cling precariously to the banks with many of their roots exposed by the constant flow, enveloping and protecting this precious source of life.

If you're towing, this spot has the most room to set up at Running Waters and is only about a 200m walk to the water.

There are campsites along the water, but not much room for turning around, so not recommended if you're towing.

There are many fish patrolling the waters which would be perfect for snorkelling. We all had an amazing time, and even Karen, who does not like swimming in anything other than our pool was enticed to take a dip. The kids' confidence grew with every jump or swing into the water, providing great entertainment for the dry onlookers. Me, I was content to just float with the aid of a pool noodle for a couple of hours, soaking it all in. Many people, even some locals, mistake Running Waters and Eel Pool as the same place. It’s not. Eel Pool is located a few kilometres away and is only accessible by foot. Back at camp I took the opportunity to try my hand at making some damper scones for morning tea ... well, cooking them at least. Karen made them up. We were soon packing up, hitching our homes on

The turn-off to Skull Springs is marked by this skull on a star picket.

Peaceful camping at Skull Springs.

wheels and getting ready to get back onto the track. My biggest regret for this trip was not staying longer. I could have quite easily spent three days here, swimming (ok, floating) and chilling out under the trees. Our next destination was another desert oasis. Only 30km further west, Skull Springs is a much wider water course made up of multiple smaller channels and almost completely enveloped with trees. The location offers flat, clear camp sites above the water course as well as areas alongside the water. There was nothing like the swimming hole found at Running Waters but there was plenty of opportunities where a weary traveller could cool off sitting in the water. We had been warned by multiple sources of authority about how bad the condition of the Skull Springs Road was. There were places where the corrugations were annoying and in places downright bothersome but overall, the road was quite good. Don’t get me wrong, this is not a 110km/h road. Conditions can and do change on a regular basis. Keep your speed down, especially if you are towing, take your time and enjoy the ride. Our schedule was tight, so we left Skull Springs only after a couple of hours exploring, intending to pull up somewhere close to Nullagine. The landscape here changes. We left the flattish ground, dotted with the odd mesa or two behind and descended into breakaway country. Crossing the 20 Mile Sandy Creek, we found our overnight spot. A large clearing of level ground beckoned and we were quick to circle the wagons against the strengthening breeze. A couple of bulls took an interest in us and wandered close to see what we were. Swags and the camper were quickly set up and the fire started before we took some time to have a look around. The ruins of one of the many State Batteries sat atop a small hill on the other side of the road. It had to be explored. Climbing to the top of the small mound we were greeted with the beep of incoming messages and updates - the hill had mobile service.

But the world had to wait, there was a spectacular sunset brewing. Watching the sun’s rays colour the clouded sky are better than any fireworks show I have ever seen. The colours roll across the landscape, holding your attention by revealing features and making them come alive. The sky show soon faded and we made our way back to camp, a warm dinner and socialising around the fire. Tomorrow was going to be an easier day - 30km to Nullagine before we started to head south for home. Our trip here was a whirlwind. We had already spent time at Karijini and Marble Bar and we knew that we would be rushed. It was a great opportunity to see what the area had to offer and make our decision to come back or not that much easier. We are going back. Next family holiday north will be here, but we would do it much differently. We will allow ourselves more time to really explore each location, to really unwind and enjoy the journey.

Amazing sunset from the State Battery ruins on our final night on Skull Springs Road. INFORMATION BAY

Best time to go: May to August. Staying at Carawine Gorge and Running Waters is FREE … BUT as they are both located on Warrawagine Station, an operational cattle station, they do like to know where people are. To stay at either site, email: stationadmin@warrawagine. com.au OR call them on (08) 9176 5900 and let them know where you will be and when. • NO motor boats are to be used at Carawine Gorge (paddles only) • Pets are OK, BUT be aware there are 1080 poison baits in the area so keep your dog on a leash • Take your rubbish with you • Be respectful of the environment and other visitors.