Lauren's trip to the Kimberley continues

Kimberley ADVENTURE

PART 2

BY LAUREN DARGE

When you’re overdue for a break what else do you do but hitch up and hit the road? We took this trip in late 2021 with our border collie puppy in tow. We were fortunate throughout the trip to find friends or other travellers who were able to mind our dog the few times we did things that she wasn’t allowed to. This is part two of our Kimberley adventure.

Continuing on the Gibb

We continued our travels, pulling up in the mid afternoon at Drysdale River Station. We decided to leave the camper trailer here to do a day trip (a long day) to Mitchell Falls. The following morning, we got up well before the crack of dawn to drive out to Mitchell Falls. Most of the way there the road wasn’t too bad, but there was a lot of fog. Once we turned into the Mitchell Falls Road conditions worsened, however weren’t unmanageable. We arrived and started our walk by about 8.00am. The walk itself wasn’t too difficult; there were a few rocks to clamber over, and a lot of flat walks. What made it difficult was that it was incredibly humid.

CHECK OUT PART ONE OF LAUREN'S KIMBERLEY ADVENTURE IN EDITION #123 OF WESTERN 4W DRIVER.

Mitchell Falls.

Once you’re past the top of the falls there’s some cascades and a helipad. We went for a quick swim and then watched a helicopter land. I asked the pilot if we could pay for a ride back, which he agreed to. It made the whole trip out there worth it as we got to see the view we had been expecting to see. If you get the chance to go out that way, we felt it’s only worth it with the helicopter ride, however, don’t do what we did - make sure you book it before you walk up the top! We then made our way back to camp to relax for the afternoon and inspect the vehicle for corrugation damage, but everything was fine. We hit the road and didn’t travel too far before making an essential stop for scones at Ellenbrae Station. We spotted some carnage on the way where the front axle of an old Prado had collapsed under the car.

Mitchell Falls.

Mitchell Falls.

After having our scones and a mango smoothie made from mangoes grown on the station, we decided to stay the night. We visited both the swimming holes and spent the afternoon relaxing. The next day was the same, not driving too far before arriving at Home Valley Station where we decided to stay a night. We set up camp by the Pentecost River and then went back up to the main area for some fish and chips, a swim and the first spot of mobile reception in a while. This spot was our best sunrise and sunset of the trip. Finishing off the Gibb with El Questro

Following our stay at Home Valley, it was another short drive to El Questro. We wanted to get there early to get a powered site as we were worried the batteries in the camper were getting a bit low. We'd had a few too many shady camp spots and then the solar was struggling to catch up with the fridge running a lot on the hot days. After setting up, we went for a drive to Branko’s Lookout. It was a 20km long 4WD track with spectacular views at the end to watch the sunset. The next morning we got up early and headed out to El Questro Gorge and completed the walk. To get to the walk itself we had to drive through a deep water crossing (0.8m at the time), that many did not want to tackle. We were glad we got there early as the pool at the end was lovely, but quite small. The walk itself was one of the prettiest and most challenging. There was a lot of climbing to get to the end. We spent the rest of the afternoon chilling, got burgers for lunch and went for a drive to check out Saddleback Lookout. We had a similar start the next morning, instead visiting Emma Gorge. This was a lovely walk, with a big pool and towering cliffs surrounding it. In the corner there’s also some hot springs. We were able to enjoy the walk and an iced coffee after. We came back to the camp area and bought nachos for lunch, before going on an afternoon boat cruise through the

Chamberlain Gorge. This was the only way to see this gorge, and whilst a little expensive, was worth the experience. At the turn-around point for the boat we got some fish food and the fish would spit water at you to be fed. We also got some fresh fruit and champagne. We were back from the boat cruise in time to put the roast on and pop down to the bar for happy hour. The next day was another early start so we could tackle Champagne Springs. This was a long, hot walk and we were a little disappointed with the pools and springs. I think we would have been impressed had the walk been more enjoyable, but we were hot and bothered and there needed to be a bit more water flowing to make it prettier. After the hot walk back we drove to Moonshine Gorge and weren’t excited to do another walk, but instead went for a swim at the swimming hole at the start of the walk. We collected the dog from her babysitter, where she'd spent the morning playing with another dog who was being looked after. We were fortunate that we had so many offers from staff on their day off to mind the dog while we explored. We then spent the rest of the afternoon relaxing and planning our next movements.

Chamberlain Gorge.

Ivanhoe Crossing. Spring Creek.

Kununurra and back to Derby

We got up early to check out Zebedee Springs, which was great because we almost had it to ourselves. Then we packed up camp in time to buy breakfast from El Questro before it closed (which was 9.30am). The dog also got to say goodbye to all her friends! Next, we hit the road for Kununurra, set up camp at the caravan park and stopped by the Ivanhoe Cafe for smoothies, wraps, burgers and delicious cakes! You must try the lemon meringue cake and the mango cheesecake! The next morning, we cooked breakfast and hit the road, first travelling over the Ivanhoe Crossing which at the time was relatively mellow. We continued along the gravel road, stopping in at Middle Springs and Black Rock Falls. We would like to visit both again when they’re actually falling. We also stopped by Button’s Crossing by the Ord River and Spring Creek. At the end of the Spring Creek Road is a lovely pool and waterfall. Definitely worth the long 4WD track in. We stopped at Parry’s Lagoon Nature Reserve where we were impressed with all the birds. There were so many! We also stopped at Telegraph Hill, where there were the remains of the old telegraph station.

Parrys Lagoon. Parrys Lagoon. Fitzroy River. Cruising Lake Argyle.

We then made our way into Wyndham, stopping at Five Rivers Lookout, the bakery and the jetty, stopping at the Grotto on our way back for a quick swim with the dog. From Kununurra we headed to Lake Argyle where we spent the afternoon relaxing by the pool or sitting under the big mango tree listening to the live music. The following morning, we booked ourselves on a boat cruise. We took the dog on a hike and then got ready for our trip. It was a great way to see the lake, although we didn’t see as much as the tour normally does as it was very windy. We had a lovely lunch before cruising back. We were now at the turn-around point for this trip so we hit the road again in the direction of Derby. We stopped in at Larrawa Station Nature Stay, which had hot showers and a few walks, but we didn’t feel like doing any as we were walked out! The next morning, we continued on and decided to set up camp near the mouth of the Fitzroy River. This was a nice spot and we were surprised at how fast the tide came in! We spent a bit of time exploring here before heading back to Derby where we checked in, did some washing, some grocery shopping and relaxed for the afternoon.

Horizontal Falls.

The following day we dropped the dog off at the kennels and went to the airport for our helicopter flight to Horizontal Falls. The trip out was awesome, with spectacular views, spotting crocs on the way. We landed on the pontoon like famous people with the other tourists taking pictures of us. They had a shark and fish feeding show where you could hop in a shark cage. I loved sitting under the water and watching the nurse sharks and I was glad I brought my prescription goggles. The current was very strong; if there wasn’t any wildlife to be worried about, we needed the cage to stop us drifting away. Next, we went for a cruise through the falls. This was a fast, bumpy ride and it was amazing how much the tides change. They then took us for a ride through Cyclone Creek which was a lot more mellow, where we spotted a sea eagle. We had fresh Barra for lunch before another ride through the falls and our helicopter ride back to Derby. It was amazing to see the differences in the falls with the changing tide. Broome Time

We started the day with bacon and eggs at camp in Derby and headed towards Broome. We had a late lunch at Matsos, got fuel and headed out to James Price Point.

Enjoying the sunset at Cable Beach.

We found a private spot on the beach to set up. The next day we had a cooked breakfast and went exploring for a more sheltered camp spot as it was incredibly windy. We checked out Coulomb Point and Quandong Point, went for a swim and then ended up heading back to camp at the same spot! Fortunately, the wind died down after dinner and we had a decent sleep. We made our way to Broome to set up camp where we then lost track of the days. We went to the courthouse markets, checked out Gantheaume and Entrance Point, finally finding some fossilised dinosaur footprints and went to Cable Beach every day, and we enjoyed the Moontide Distillery. After five nights in Broome our trip came to an end where we made our way home.

Gantheaume Point, Broome.

James Price Point.

LAUREN'S TOP 10 CAMP MEALS

1

Pizza topped with bacon, salami, olives, capsicum, pineapple and cheese. We usually do it on a stone in the Weber.

Steak cooked on cast iron on the fire with chips. We cut potatoes into thin discs, seasoning with salt, pepper and Moroccan spice and then shallow fry.

Burgers with high quality mince squashed flat on the cast iron, pickles, red onion, lettuce, burger sauce and burger cheese with the inside of the bun toasted.

Roast pork, or roast anything. In a tray in the Weber with some roast veggies, usually gives us lunch for a few days.

Chicken surprise. We like to call into the local butcher and pick up a few different things, they usually have a chicken wrapped or chicken stuffed something.

Sausages - you can’t go wrong with bangers and mash or a sausage sizzle.

Cold meat in bread or a wrap with some ham and salami or left-over roast. We find wraps last ages and are very easy to store.

Frankfurts. On our first camping trip together, we got red sausages as a bit of a throwback to birthday parties as kids. Now we will have them as a camping treat.

Bacon and eggs, definitely a favourite.

Spaghetti bolognaise, this is an easy one to make the sauce before you go. Then you can just boil some pasta and stir through the sauce to warm through.