Western 4W Driver #126 Winter 2023 by Vanguard Publishing Perth

126th EDITION Winter 2023

KARLAMILYI

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From the moment it made its way onto our shores over 50 years ago, the Hilux quickly established itself as an Australian classic. A workhorse and family mover, no adventure is complete without one. And for good reason. Combining power with on-road presence, the Hilux continues to prove itself from generation to generation. Nothing beats the unbreakable connection between you and your Hilux.

WESTERN 4W DRIVER

126th EDITION

Winter 2023

NATIONAL PARK

MARBLE BAR SANDY BLIGHT JUNCTION ROAD DUNN’S TRACK

S T N E T N CO ADVENTURES

Edition 126 Winter 2023

Red Earth Adventure

Explore Karlimilyi National Park with John Beadle ......................................................................................................................................... 8

The Magic of Marble Bar

There's lots to see in this must-explore destination ................................................................................................................................... 16

Cultural Treasures

An abundance of Aboriginal experiences available in the Pilbara ................................................................................... 32

Sandy Blight Junction Road

Grant and Linda travel Len Beadell's favourite track ................................................................................................................................. 38

Bottoming Out at Boronup

Rookie mistakes and a day out at Boronup ............................................................................................................................................................ 47

Done the Dunn

Karl traverses the spectacular Dunn's Track ............................................................................................................................................................. 66

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FEATURES

REGULARS

Engineered for Adventure

The Front Matter ................................................................................. 6

Recovery in the Kimberley

Bush Mechanics ......................................................................... 107

We test the 2023 Mahindra Scorpio Z8L ................. 22

Overcoming Adversity and

Building Resilience ........................................................................................ 28

Country Stargazing

Emu in the Sky ...................................................................................................... 36

The RFDS Story - Part 1 The Death of a Ringer and the

Bloke on the Twenty Dollar Note .......................................... 52

Forgotten Goldfields of WA Prospecting areas from Exmouth, Onslow,

Carnarvon and the Pilbara ................................................................ 61

Ancient Land Bursting with Blooms Time your next trip to Ravensthorpe with

the Ravensthorpe Wildflower Show ................................. 73

Kalbarri's Unique Wildflowers Kalbarri has more than 40 orchid species

for you to discover ........................................................................................... 78

Art from the Dreamtime

The writing's on the wall! ..................................................................... 82

When the Best Laid Plans Go Awry

The cardinal rules of 4W driving ............................................. 90

I'm Gonna Put Some 35s on That

David Wilson talks tyre sizes .......................................................... 94

From the Road to the Rock

The basics of off-roading ...................................................................... 98

Space Savers

Product Review .............................................................................................. 104

The People We Meet ..................................................... 111 What's in a Name .................................................................. 117 The Things You See .......................................................... 122 Outback Survival .................................................................... 125 Fishy Business ................................................................................ 127 Gear to Go Camping ...................................................... 133 Clewed Up ................................................................................................. 136 Fire Cooking ......................................................................................... 138 4WD Club Focus ........................................................................ 143 Capture the Moment ................................................... 149 Smart Photography ........................................................ 151 Now We're TAWKing! .................................................. 154 Are We There Yet? ............................................................... 157 Subscriptions .................................................................................... 160 Supplier Directory .............................................................. 161 Silly Snaps ................................................................................................. 162

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Vanguard Publishing ABN 70 616 133 870 26 John Street, Northbridge WA 6003 PO Box 50, Northbridge WA 6865 Phone: (08) 9422 4330 admin@western4wdriver.com.au www.western4wdriver.com.au EDITION 126: Editor Tori Wilson tori@vanguardpublishing.com.au Graphic Design Karen Morton Content Tori Wilson Michael Collins Advertising Matt Clarke matt@western4wdriver.com.au Natalie Du Preez natalie@vanguardpublishing.com.au Administration Steve Larcombe Sally van Heemst Printing Vanguard Print

Cover image: The road to Desert Queen Baths, Karlamilyi National Park by John Beadle

Disclaimer: The views expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of Vanguard Publishing or the editors but those of the authors who accept sole responsibility and liability for them. While every care is taken with images and photographs, and all other material submitted, Vanguard Publishing accepts no liability for loss or damage. Vanguard Publishing reserves the right to amend publication schedules and frequencies.

elcome to the 126th edition of Western 4W Driver! We are delighted to present an issue filled with stories, reviews, and captivating images that celebrate the spirit of adventure. During the last quarter, I embarked on multiple journeys across the country, attending various caravan shows. It was a pleasure to meet some of our amazing contributors who reside outside of WA, and I had the opportunity to witness firsthand the latest products in the industry. I can't wait to share our reviews with you in the upcoming editions. Before we delve into this edition, I would like to extend our thoughts and support to the communities in the north of our state who have been severely affected by two cyclones (Ellie and Isla) this year. We hope that the travelling public keeps their plans and heads north for the dry season. These communities do need our support! On a brighter note, the Great Northern Highway at Fitzroy is now open to all traffic. A big shout out to the incredible people at Main Roads in Derby who have worked tirelessly to make it possible. Travellers can breathe a sigh of relief as they can now get between Broome and Kununurra without any issues. With the abundant rainfall this year, one can only anticipate that the entire Kimberley will be more amazingly beautiful and spectacular than it normally is. Just makes it the must-do destination for all of us adventure enthusiasts. Speaking of extraordinary events, we can't help but reminisce about the recent solar eclipse. Kate Russo's

Edition 126 Winter 2023

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THE FRONT MATTER with MICHAEL (SPIKE) COLLINS passionate description of eclipse chasing in our previous edition truly captured the essence of this awe-inspiring phenomenon. Thousands of people from all corners of the world gathered in Exmouth and surrounds to witness this extraordinary event. The experience left us in complete awe, and we are sure many of our readers felt the same way. In this edition, we have a great feature where Grant and Linda take on the Sandy Blight Junction Road, a track that held a special place in Len Beadell's heart. While their adventure unfolds, we couldn't help but wonder, what exactly is a Sandy Blight and why did Beadell name it so? Join us as Grant and Linda unravel the mysteries and history behind this intriguing name. Our fabulous sales team of Matt and Natalie, Tori, and I attended this year’s Perth Caravan and Camping Show at the Claremont Showgrounds. We had the pleasure of meeting an incredible number of loyal readers along with many of our wonderful advertisers and some of our exceptional content contributors at the Western 4W Driver stand during the show. After having to cancel the show in 2022, Carol and the team from the Caravan Industry Association WA organised a remarkable event this year that brought the self-drive community together once again. It was certainly wonderful to reconnect.

rugged terrains, hidden gems, and thrilling off-road experiences that Western Australia has to offer. Before I conclude, we would like to express our deepest gratitude for your continued support and readership. Western 4W Driver magazine is a labour of love, and we take great pride in curating content that excites, informs, and inspires. Without you, our valued readers, none of this would be possible. As always, we value your feedback and encourage you to share your thoughts with us. Your comments and suggestions play a vital role in shaping the content we deliver. So, sit back, immerse yourself in the pages of the 126th edition, and let your imagination run wild with the possibilities that await you on your next 4WD adventure. From thrilling off-road escapades to breathtaking landscapes and rich cultural heritage, Western Australia is a playground for explorers and adventurers like you. Thank you once again for being a part of our Western 4W Driver community. We hope you enjoy this edition as much as we enjoyed creating it. Happy reading and happy trails! Cheers, Spike

Within the pages of this edition, you'll find a wide array of captivating articles and features that cater to every 4WD enthusiast. Join us as we explore the

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Red earth

adventure BY JOHN BEADLE

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Off the beaten track and far away from the crowds, Karlamilyi National Park in East Pilbara is a truly remarkable destination to explore. Begin with the below and discover more of its hidden secrets on your own adventure.

esert Queen Baths, Kalkan Kalkan Soak, Tjingkulatjatjarra Pool. Names of faraway places that stir the imagination. I have been fascinated with Karlamilyi (Rudall River) National Park for many, many years. Last year we finally got there. Karlamilyi National Park is the largest national park in Western Australia and one of the largest in the world. Covering 1,283,706 hectares (12,837 square km), the park sits between the Great Sandy and Little Sandy Deserts, and roughly between Marble Bar and the Canning Stock Route. If latitude and longitude is your thing, a meridian through Broome will pass through Karlamilyi and exit the south coast at Esperance, and the park

is at the same latitude as Exmouth. I’ve explained this because virtually nobody knows where the park is. Sand dunes dominate the desert areas in the eastern and southwestern parts of the park. They form parallel sand ridges 20-40m high, 200m to 6km apart and up to 40km in length. Between the desert regions is a central rocky area shaped by ephemeral rivers and creeks, creating a myriad of escarpments, gorges and waterholes. Rain arrives from the north via decaying tropical low pressure systems, but the park can stay dry for years. If you are lucky enough to see Karlamilyi after a couple of good wet seasons (and we were), it is truly spectacular.

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Karlamilyi is rugged and remote. There are no facilities, the tracks are not maintained and signage is minimal or non-existent. There is no fuel available within the park and water supply is fickle. Needless to say, you need to be well prepared — a reliable and well equipped 4WD is essential. I’ll leave the details of that to the many articles already penned in this magazine. One thing to note: Karlamilyi is a tyre wrecker, especially if you venture off the main north-south access road into the far reaches of the park. The mulga tree (Acacia aneura) dominates the scrub and this is a serious hardwood used to make tools such as boomerangs and digging sticks. Mulga is highly efficient at staking tyres. We carried two spare wheels and used both. There are two main access routes into Karlamilyi. Most who enter from the south will use the Talawana Track via Newman and the Marble Bar Road. The Talawana services Parngurr Community and is a well-maintained unsealed road. We found most visitors to the park were from eastern states and had entered from the north via the Kiwikurra Road, Punmu and Telfer. We started from our home in Broome and our intention was to access the park by a little used third route: the western access to Karlamilyi via Christie Crossing,

Bocrabee Hill and Hanging Rock. We didn’t make it — a story for another day. Instead we entered via the Talawana Track, after enjoying a few days in superb East Pilbara country around Skull Springs. You quickly enter the national park after turning north off the Talawana Track, then a 50km sandy track will bring you to the central “crossroads” of Karlamilyi. The track crosses the Rudall River and here you will find a plaque outlining the rich Aboriginal history of the area as well as European exploration of the area in 1896-97 when surveyor William Frederick Rudall (pronounced Roo-dal) led a party of men in search of George Jones and Charles Wells, the missing men from the Calvert Expedition. The Rudall River was named by Frank Hann after the surveyor. From here you can travel further north, or take rough tracks for adventurous exploration to the west or east. Be aware

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spotted in the area. Seventeen mammals have been recorded in the park, mainly small creatures such as the hairy-footed dunnart and the spinifex hopping mouse. Camels and dingoes can be found, but other larger mammals seem to have disappeared over time. We heard dingoes every night but didn’t see them. No doubt they could see us. Highlights among the more well known locations of Karlamilyi include:

that after a good wet season, many of the east-west tracks are completely overgrown and indiscernible. Deep washouts and long stretches of soft sand are common. A reliable offline digital map set is essential for any of these side tracks. We used ExplorOz mapping and found it excellent.

Tjingkulatjatjarra Pool (or Tjing Pool)

We had no set itinerary in the park and allowed 17 days ex Broome for the trip. This allowed stays of three or four days at the best spots, and unforeseen route changes were easily managed. We could have stayed longer. Don’t rush it. We were completely self-sufficient for fuel, water and food for the whole trip. Best of all we had no internet connection anywhere in the park so you are truly off grid, something that is becoming increasingly hard to do in our busy lives. We carry a satellite phone for emergencies and also find it invaluable for keeping in contact with family.

Situated on the upper reaches of Rudall River (named Watrara Creek on maps). The secluded camp on the sandy bank of this long pool allows only one camp. Excellent for swimming, walking the surrounding escarpments and bird watching. We spent five days here and, in that time, only three vehicles popped down to see if the camp was free.

The park is a bird watcher’s paradise. Huge flocks of seed eating species dominated our trip: zebra finches, budgerigars, painted finches. Over 90 species of birds have been recorded in the park. Most are located around the river and creek systems. Many of the species reflect the more arid areas of Australia including spinifex pigeons, peregrine and brown falcons. An assortment of honeyeaters also come to drink at the pools. The white-winged fairy-wren can also be seen, and in good seasons, crimson chats and button-quail can be

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Curran Curran Water Hole This large rock pool is a short walk from the very rough track heading into the western regions of Karlamilyi. In 2022 the track to Curran Curran was almost completely overgrown in parts, and offline digital mapping was essential for the numerous times we lost the track. On the way to CC Water Hole you will pass the rather appropriate “You Are Lost” sign. The water hole was full and supported extraordinary bird life. The highlight was watching hundreds of spinifex pigeons slowly congregate on the rocky ramparts above us, looking like miniature soldiers ready to defend their water hole. After watching us in silence for a long time, they gained confidence and formed long lines to walk and scramble their way down the steep rock walls to drink in the water hole. It was a mesmerizing sight.

Our intention was to travel further west and reach Hanging Rock on the western border of Karlamilyi, but after pushing on from Curran Curran we eventually completely lost the track in the thick acacia scrub and had to turn back.

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Desert Queen Baths This is a series of pools linked in a deep gorge system in the central rocky area of Karlamilyi. Camping is excellent at the entrance to the pools. The upper pools, numbers five to eight, are the actual ‘Desert Queen Baths’. These can only be negotiated by swimming across the very cold, black water. This gorge system is the equal of any in the Kimberley or Karijini, without the crowds.

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Kalkan Kalkan Soak To the east of the Rudall River Crossing, this area has numerous waterholes, rocky escarpments, and wide sandy stretches of riverbed for walking and exploring. Fantastic bird life once again. We couldn’t make it all the way to Kalkan Kalkan by vehicle due to deep washouts in the many creeks feeding the Rudall

River, but there are many alternate camp spots. We accessed Kalkan Kalkan by foot along the riverbed. Give yourself enough time in Karlamilyi to absorb the peace and solitude. Venture into the less travelled regions of this vast area. There many undiscovered gems for the adventurous traveller. We found plenty that are best kept secret.

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An excerpt from Hema's Great Desert Tracks - Western map.

The magic of

marble bar With sweeping plains of pindan earth fringed with impressive rock formations and gorges studded throughout, Marble Bar is a must-explore destination on any true adventurers’ bucket-list. BY TORI WILSON

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Marble Bar Pool. Photo: Agnieszka Flakus Makowski

he Pilbara is perhaps one of the most iconic destinations in Western Australia. With its rich history, First Nations heritage, striking red and rocky landscapes and unparalleled natural attractions, Marble Bar in East Pilbara makes it obvious why.

he named the place Marble Bar.

Its name dates back to 1881 when pioneering settler, Nathaniel William Cooke, established Mallina Station, almost 105km (65 miles) from Roebourne. Keen to take up more good pastoral country, Nathaniel and Edmund Keenan travelled from Mallina to Coongan River and it was during this expedition that Nathaniel discovered the jasper bar that crossed the Coongan. Believing the bar to be marble,

Formally founded in 1893 during the Gold Rush, Marble Bar is renowned as Australia’s hottest town, with temperatures climbing over 38 degrees for days on end — so, when journeying here, make sure you come prepared to handle the heat. Once you arrive, it’ll be well worth it — with plenty of 4WD trails, water ponds, falls and streams, natural gorges, First Nation’s art, and exciting prospecting opportunities; the diversity of activities is endless and there are ample places to cool off. Get started with a few favourite spots any traveller should explore:

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Marble Bar's historical buildings. Photo: Agnieszka Flakus Makowski

Dawn service at RSL Park. Photo: Ronice Preston

Corunna Downs. Photo: Agnieszka Flakus Makowski

Marble Bar Pool. Photo: Karen Button

Old Government Buildings A rare and outstanding example of government buildings constructed in the 1890s in a remote part of Western Australia, Marble Bar’s Old Water Tank Lookout. Government Buildings Chinaman's Pool. Photo: Karen Morton are well worth a look. Constructed using stone and materials from the area, the structure located in scrub and spinifex country, was designed by the state’s principal about 35 kilometres south west of Marble architect George Poole and completed Bar. Today, there are very few reminders in 1896. George Thomas Temple-Poole of the once busy airfield. Abandoned designed many public buildings, often in since the end of WWII, only crumbling remote and emerging towns; Roebourne, foundations, revetment outlines and the Cossack, Cue and Coolgardie. The Old runways remain. Albany Post Office and the Perth Mint are other examples of his distinctive style.

RSL Park The RSL Park located in General Street adjacent to the iconic Iron Clad Hotel is home to a unique memorial where the community gathers annually for an ANZAC service. A water tap and dump point for travellers is located at the park (not to be used for washing vehicles).

Corunna Downs Airfield Corunna Downs was a secret airfield

Water Tank Lookout

Visit the Water Tank Lookout for sweeping vistas of the surrounding countryside and to experience incredible sunsets. Note: no swimming permitted (this is the town’s water supply).

Marble Bar Pool and Chinaman’s Pool Located only a few-minutes’ drive from town, Marble Bar Pool is an A Class Reserve, brimming with an abundance of

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View from Flying Fox Lookout. Photo: Karen Morton

Carawine Gorge. Photo: James Curry

Fossick for your own samples at the Jasper Deposit. Photo: Karen Morton

Comet Gold Mine. Photo: Agnieszka Flakus Makowski

Mantingunya Arts & Cultural Centre wildlife. At certain times of the year, it is a popular natural swimming hole. Adjacent to Marble Bar Pool is Chinaman’s Pool, so named after the numerous market gardens established along the banks by Chinese migrants to the goldfields. As early as 1893, the benefits of having access to fresh vegetables and greens were much appreciated by local prospectors and early Marble Bar residents. Now it’s popular for swimming and picnicking.

Flying Fox Lookout Five kilometres down Comet Mine Road is the Flying Fox Lookout, an ideal spot to watch the sunset or have a picnic lunch and take in the panoramic view. The lookout was previously used to run the depth gauge when the river was running.

Jasper Deposit Four kilometres down the Comet Mine Road (becomes Hillside/Woodstock Road) lies the Jasper Deposit. Here you can sustainably fossick and take samples, without interfering with the A Class Reserve.

Located in Nullagine (just south of Marble Bar), MACC is a creative hub specialising in Aboriginal art produced by a collective of Aboriginal artists. MACC is Martu led with the support of traditional owners of Nullagine, Palyku people.

Comet Gold Mine Museum Gold was the name of the game in the 1890s, but there was so much more held in the rocky hills and alluvial creeks of Marble Bar. Located kilometres south of Marble Bar, adjacent to Comet Mine, Comet Gold Mine Museum showcases an incredible array of gemstones, rocks and minerals born of the area. Comet Mine was named by prospector Tommy Starr for the gold seam he identified at the top of the mountain, which he deemed as rare as seeing Halley’s comet.

Carawine Gorge Located 174 kilometres east of Marble Bar, Carawine Gorge is a natural paradise for those inclined to venture off the beaten track in search of quieter sanctuaries. This spectacular swimming spot boasts crystal waters and is home to an abundance of birdlife. Camping is welcome.

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Pelican Pool at Meentheena Veterans Retreat. Photo: Ian Armitt

Skull Springs. Photo: Karen Morton

Running Waters. Photo: Peter Edward

Skull Springs Located approximately 100 kilometres east of Nullagine just over half way along Skull Spring Road and flowing with creeks and pools, Skull Springs is a place of impressive natural beauty and the road that takes you there is equally magic. You can opt to traverse Skull Springs Road from Nullagine, stopping at Skulls Springs along the way, then north to Carawine Gorge, before circling back in a westerly direction to Marble Bar; or conversely, take the route from Marble Bar to Nullagine. Either way, the country you witness will be majestic. Roads can get seriously rocky along the way, and you’ll need to watch out for river crossings and sharp dips in the road. A 4WD is essential and you must be entirely self-sufficient to camp at Skull Springs. Camping is free and leave no trace principles apply.

Running Waters Add Running Waters to your hit-list for spots to stop along Skull Springs Road. Located 180 kilometres south east of

Marble Bar, 60 kilometres south of Carawine Gorge and about 40 kilometres from Skull Springs, Running Waters is a breathtaking natural pool around 10 metres wide. Spring-fed and a naturally striking green colour, the scenery here is incredible and birdlife is abundant. Cold water flows in year-round and hot water simmers up, making one side warm and the other cool. The 4WD track is best not to be underestimated. With decent water levels to navigate through, rocks and tight pathways, it can be precarious at times — though the toughest section is only brief. Only about five small camp sites are available close to the water’s edge, so those who spend the night here are of a lucky bunch! There is also room to camp around 200 metres from the water for those who are towing or not wanting to attempt the tricky drive in.

Meentheena Veterans Retreat Dedicated to those who have served in the Australian military forces, as well as para-military veterans who served in peace-keeping, police, fire and rescue roles, Meentheena Veterans Retreat is a camping retreat open to anyone. Spanning about 700,000 acres, the property is home to some incredible scenery, typical of the stunning Pilbara landscapes. Expect pristine billabongs, flora and fauna such as shady paperbark trees, and colourful scenery. It costs $10 per night, per adult for members; $15 per adult for non-members; and kids under 10 camp for free. A 2WD with decent clearance will make it through, however many of the tracks found on the property are 4WD-only.

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Doolena Gorge.

Glen Herring Gorge.

Photo: Agnieszka Flakus Makowski

Photo: Ian Armitt

Coppin's Gap. Photo: Karen Morton

Photo: Marble Bar Race Club

Glen Herring Gorge Located 53 kilometres south-west of Marble Bar along the Hillside Road, past the Comet Mine, is Glen Herring Gorge. Red rock walls make a picturesque contrast against the green vegetation that surrounds clear waterholes. A 2WD with clearance may access the gorge, however a 4WD is your best option. Camping is free, campers must be selfsufficient and leave no trace principles apply.

Marble Bar Races 8 July 2023

The Marble Bar Race Cup is part of the town’s lifeblood — an iconic event that dates back to 1893, making this the 130th year of Marble Bar races.

Coppin’s Gap Located about 70 kilometres north of Marble Bar, Coppin’s Gap is a picturesque swimming and picnicking spot shaded by tall trees and bordered by an impressive red rockface. Soak in the tranquil scenery while keeping cool.

Doolena Gorge Located 41 kilometres north of Marble Bar, Doolena Gorge on the De Gray River is an exceptionally special place when the water is flowing. Observe the mesmerising falls, take a dip and stay for a picnic. The access road to the site is located on your left just after crossing Coongan River. A 4WD is essential.

Expect this year’s event to be a memorable one, with the charm of the ‘good old days’ shining through. Buckle up for two nights of camping and entertainment. Keep an eye out for the announcement of the band and prepare yourself for the legendary undie run that’s as liberating as it is memorable. After three years of COVID preventing the event being held at Marble Bar, this will be its first year back in its founding town. Help Marble Bar keep this historic event alive and time your trip with the Race Cup.

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GET

BEHIND

THE WHEEL

Ray Cully

With

ENGINEERED FOR

ADVENTURE

2023 MAHINDRA SCORPIO Z8L BY RAY CULLY

While the name might seem relatively new, Mahindra was established in 1945 and is not new to vehicle manufacture being the world’s largest tractor company by volume and the manufacturer of a range of utility vehicles that have built a loyal fan base. In 2015 they acquired one of the world’s most highly respected automotive design houses, Pininfarina — responsible for designing the seductive forms of Ferrari and Maserati. In Australia, Mahindra has been a quiet achiever, establishing their position with no less than 49 outlets across six states. 22 | Western 4W Driver #126 | western4wdriver.com.au

power adjustable driver’s seat, wireless charging, and the Sony 3D 12-speaker audio system with a larger 7-inch TFT as opposed to the 4.2-inch on the Z8. Plus, there’s a front parking sensor, and a forward-facing camera that can take photos. From the moment you check out the external contours, accept the key fob, open the driver’s door and slide into the front seat to admire the internal aesthetics, everything suggests this is worthy of closer inspection. On the black top is where the Z8 displays its best, with Mahindra’s latest generation body-on-frame structure. Both ride comfort and handling are very good. It’s not the world’s best handling dynamics, but as a family SUV it delivers a very respectable level of control and stability, letting you relax behind the wheel to enjoy cruising long distances or travelling winding country roads. I appreciated the Scorpio’s ability to deal with undulations at speed and remain composed thanks to Frequency Dependent Damping (FDD) technology, which provides an assuring level of confidence for on-road handling. Running a double wishbone front end and Watt’s link on the back, the Z8 is compliant and stable through bends. While there is progressive and predictable body roll through the corners, it doesn’t lean over, or get squirrelly unless you’re being silly.

was pretty darn impressed with Mahindra’s S10+ Dual Cab 4x4. It was uncomplicated, perfectly suited to its intended purpose, and no doubt provided bewildered competitors with a pricing comparison headache. So, I was keen to check out the all-new Mahindra Scorpio SUV. Our test vehicle was the Z8L, priced at $44,990. Both are packed with features but the key differences over the standard Z8 which comes in at $41,990, is a 6-way

And this directly results from the R&D that Mahindra put into the Scorpio to set the vehicle up to meet Australian expectations. They conducted extensive testing of the Scorpio’s resilience under tough Australian conditions, including driveline performance, off-road capabilities, technology reliability, ride and handling, interior noise, vibration and harshness, whilst monitoring materials for durability and appearance. The vehicles were subject to driving conditions beyond those most owners would feel comfortable putting their own

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vehicles through. Drivelines and cooling systems were pushed to deal with towing in 45+-degree heat conditions over consecutive 17–18-hour days. They even pushed one vehicle non-stop through 10,000 kilometres on dirt roads to ensure suitability for a long-distance trip through Australia's outback. Under the hood is Mahindra’s newer version of the mHawk 2.2L direct injection turbo diesel. An all-alloy setup running higher injection pressures and revised turbo for a better response. With a modest 400Nm and 129kW on tap, it’s off the pace compared to the class benchmark figures of 150kW and 500Nm of torque. The Scorpio might not be a threat to more powerful competitors in sheer straight-line acceleration, but it holds its own in traffic and never feels lethargic in daily driving duties. Mid-range power delivery is firm not fierce and will move the Scorpio’s 2,100kg kerb weight without complaint.

The fuel tank capacity is a tidy 57L. With an indicated drinking habit of 7.2L/100km, that’s close to 800km range. But with a combination of suburbia, highway, secondary country and off-road driving, I was closer to 10L/100km and it would be less if towing up to its brake tow limit of 2,500kg. I’m assuming the tow ball weight can handle approximately 10% of the van in tow at 250kg, as I didn’t have confirmation available at the time of writing. Whilst capacity sits well within vehicle class, with a payload of only 510kg that effectively leaves you with a mere 260kg for passengers and any additional luggage or gear you might like to take. Around town, the six speed auto works well and will put the Scorpio’s available torque and power to good use. It’s smooth and barely noticeable, happily performing without fuss or disruption to cabin serenity. Reliability and durability should be assured, given the number of other prominent manufacturers using the Asian brand auto in their own vehicles.

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Steering is courtesy of a Dual Pinion Electric Power Steering system. From a driving perspective, it feels light and responsive, making U-turn and car park ventures much easier. For an SUV, the on-road feel is direct and allows you to easily place and keep the Scorpio on track, handy as there is no form of lane keep assist. Venturing off road wasn’t a problem, but I was mindful that this wasn’t a Mahindra media vehicle, but kindly provided by Shirwin Govender and the team from Magic Mahindra in Burswood. And it was fitted with standard 255/60 road tyres, which turned to slicks at the first sight of sticky mud. Selecting 4WD high range is a simple push of a button and can be done on the move up to 80kph. Through winding gravel tracks, the Scorpio felt as though it was on rails. Vehicle placement and control were effortless, thanks to the light steering and good high seating position. What really impressed me at moderate speed was how well the suspension absorbed and disposed of bumps and dips, keeping the cabin well cushioned from abrupt thuds and bangs. Moving over slightly rockier terrain, the traction control system intervened on slippery ball bearing gravel. Not as polished in its operation or as prompt to react to wheel spin as some others, it still sorted itself out with smooth consistent throttle application to redirect torque where needed, allowing the Scorpio to keep pushing forward. Despite modest ground clearance of 227mm, and approach, breakover and departure of 27, 23 and 21 respectively, the Scorpio could tackle most obstacles with careful wheel placement and picking the best path around larger obstructions. Wheel articulation isn’t stellar as the Scorpio lifts a wheel rather easily on larger moguls. But with gentle throttle, the rear diff lock bites, announcing its intervention with a rearward thud, and forward momentum is regained. The

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Scorpio was very capable when driving to the conditions and allowing the vehicle time to adjust and execute the task rather than trying to rush through. Coming across a few inclines that had been chewed up in the wet, I didn’t have the clearance or rubber to stay in the ruts, meaning we had to straddle the deep grooves. Not normally a challenge, but the centre was covered in a thin dry crust which gave way to a slick coating of clay offering road tyres all the traction of a dog on lino! The only way forward required the Scorpio to redirect all the driving force to both right wheels. As the passenger’s rear tyre stepped into the mud, we stopped. With a quick reset to the drive program Mud & Ruts, I slowly added engine torque to the mix. There was an initial wheel slip and a slight sideways movement, until the reassuring thud confirmed the mechanical locker was taking up the challenge whilst the front traction control worked feverishly to keep the power directed to the wheel with purchase. The Scorpio growled and snorted its way slowly to the top, where we were rewarded with dry flat ground to continue our journey. After driving through slush, you appreciate the self-cleaning ability and performance of disc brakes all around for the long drive home. Comforting to know you also have a full sized spare onboard rather than a jar of goop! When it comes to safety; do not be confused by the Scorpio’s 5-star rating in the Global New Car Assessment program’s (GNCAP) as it’s different to our familiar ANCAP. To gain an ANCAP 5-star rating, the Scorpio would need to demonstrate it has the required driver assist systems such as autonomous emergency braking, lane keep assist, blind spot monitoring, rear cross traffic alert and adaptive radar cruise control. And the current curtain air bags don’t cover the full extent of third row passengers. The Scorpio snuck in just under the March 1st cut-off date for new

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models entering Australia, but Mahindra has indicated increased functionality will be available on the next model update. However, if you’re not worried by lack of third row airbags and are comfortable without a raft of driver assist technology then this is a well-priced vehicle, which offers great value for money in a comfortable, good-looking form factor. While there is room for improvement, the Scorpio offers considerable bang for your buck. It’s more than worth considering if you’re after a vehicle in this class and care more for features and functionality than badging. Add some decent All Terrain tyres, take the time to tackle off-road obstacles with careful placement and sensible driving and you’ll be able travel far more than a simple gravel track and comfortably follow those with much more ambitious off-road machines.

Fast Facts Model: Scorpio Z8L Price: $44,990 Engine: 2.2-litre four-cylinder turbo-diesel Output: 129kW/400Nm Transmission: Six-speed automatic Fuel: 7.2L/100km Warranty: 7 year / 150,000 km Safety rating: Not ANCAP tested yet.

For the latest in automotive news and more great vehicle reviews, make sure you check out www.getbehindthewheel.info

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Recovery y Kimberle e in th

BY MICHAEL COLLINS

Overcoming Adversity and Building Resilience

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As lovers of the rugged and remote destinations of Western Australia, many of you are probably wondering how one of our state’s crown jewels is faring in times of tragedy, and how might it impact your next trip?

Australia's Northwest

hether you’re chasing iconic attractions or unique, off-thebeaten-track experiences requiring a 4WD, the Kimberley region is one of our state’s most spectacular destinations to explore. Earlier this year, when a devastating flood event caused by ExTropical Cyclone Ellie swept through, it was hit hard. The flood damaged major infrastructure, including large sections of the Great Northern Highway between Fitzroy Crossing and Broome, and the Fitzroy River Bridge cutting off east-west access along the highway. Hundreds of homes and businesses were inundated, and hundreds of people were evacuated to higher grounds. The impact was felt across the entire Kimberley community, leaving it in disarray. The daily ferry service across the Fitzroy River has been a lifeline for the community, taking over 10,000 people across the river during March alone. The service has also transported essential supplies, including vehicles, fuel, and food, to the isolated communities on the other side of the river.

Australia's Northwest

Three months on from the flood event, the Kimberley is officially open for business. The clean-up and recovery efforts are still underway in some areas, but there are plenty of sites open and ample reasons to still make your way up.

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How is the access? • Repairs to the Great Northern Highway between Derby and Broome are well underway. A temporary two-lane gravel roadway is open to traffic, while full road rebuilds along the affected section continue. • The low-level crossing of the Fitzroy River reopened on 21 April to all traffic, providing a vital link between the communities east and west of the Fitzroy River. • A second crossing approximately 150m upstream of the bridge is also being investigated, with plans for it to be operational by mid-2023. This crossing will facilitate a higher volume of traffic and freight during the dry season. • The long-term rebuild of the Fitzroy Crossing Bridge is also underway, with site work expected to start in May/June 2023 and completion planned for the end of 2024. The WA State Government fast-tracked its procurement process for the construction of the new bridge, with a design and contract being signed-off back in March. Updates on road access can be found on the Main Roads website at: mainroads.wa.gov.au.

How is tourism faring?

Australia's Northwest

Naturally, tourism in the area — a major source of economic activity — has been impacted. The State Government has distributed several relief packages to support regional businesses in getting back up and running, which have been effective and timely. Local tourism organisations are ready for the 2023 season and urging visitors not to change their travel plans.

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When discussing the topic with Tourism Western Australia (TWA) at Caravan and Camping Shows around the country, the feeling was positive. We were told that in spite of the recent flooding and road damage in the Kimberley, a very small number of people spoken with at these shows indicated they had changed their travel plans in a bid to avoid the Kimberley region. Daily updates on the roads and weather have been a constant reassurance to travellers, TWA said.

What’s open? The majority of the Kimberley's national parks will be open for the 2023 tourism season, including Purnululu National Park World, Dulundi (Silent Grove), Walarra Mindi (Mt Hart), and Lennard Gorge. Dimalurru (Tunnel Creek) is also expected to open, however slightly delayed.

What’s closed? Due to significant flood damage to visitor infrastructure and post-flood visitor safety risks, Danggu Geikie Gorge National Park and Bandilngan (Windjana Gorge) National Park will be closed for the remainder of 2023. Mornington Wilderness Camp, a popular destination for eco-tourism, will also be closed to visitors for the 2023 season due to significant damage as a result of Cyclone Ellie.

Cyclone Isla made her presence felt in the Pilbara region, bringing more rainfall to the Kimberley as she made her way southward. While the cyclone did cross the coast north of Port Hedland, the Pardoo Roadhouse wore the brunt of her fury. Situated approximately 150 kilometres north of Port Hedland, the roadhouse sustained significant damage and is closed for the time being, but the team are determined to bounce back stronger than ever. The Great Northern Highway is open between Port Hedland and Broome and the Sandfire Roadhouse 280 kilometres north of Port Hedland remains open for fuel, food, and accommodation.

What to expect? The Kimberley and Pilbara communities have shown incredible resilience and determination in the face of the recent floods and cyclones. While the recovery efforts are ongoing, there are already positive signs of progress, with repairs to major infrastructure, the reopening of the Great Northern Highway and the Gibb River Road, and the government's initiatives and relief packages for local businesses providing some stability during this challenging time. The Kimberley and Pilbara regions remains a unique and spectacular destination for all with a sense of adventure, and with the community's unwavering spirit and commitment to rebuilding, it will undoubtedly continue to be so. A small silver lining for tourism operators after a wet season like no other, the dry season promises to deliver an incredibly spectacular and beautiful Kimberley that will surely captivate all blessed to journey there. Let’s hope (for the community’s sake) they come in their droves!

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With its pindan earth and vast, ancient plains, the Pilbara is Western Australia in its rawest form. In addition to its natural splendour, this majestic place is home to an abundance of Aboriginal experiences and cultural activities that will broaden any visitor’s horizons. Here are a few suggestions to start with…

Martumili Artists

Cultural Treasures

Located in Newman, Martumili Artists is an art gallery that draws from the cultural influences of its local community. It was established by the Martu people living in Parnpajinya (Newman), Jigalong, Parnngurr, Punmu, Kunawarritji, Irrungadji and Warralong communities. What makes this gallery so rich in culture is the fact that most of the Martu people had maintained their traditional, nomadic desert lifestyle until the 1950s and 1960s. With over 20 artists, Martumili Artists is regularly running unique exhibitions and operates a full gallery filled with stunning pieces of art. One of the highlights of being is this gallery is the opportunity to

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be surrounded by and interact with the artists as you admire their work. Often they will be in the midst of creating while you visit, allowing you to see their stories unfold while listening to them firsthand.

Karijini Eco Retreat It’s only fair to occasionally take a break from being ‘off the beaten track’ and treat ourselves to some deep resoration. Nestled amongst native bushland, at the edge of Joffre Gorge, take the opportunity to lay under the stars at Karijini Eco Retreat. Being the first and only facility to offer a glamping experience within

Karijini National Park and 100% Aboriginal owned, it’s a pretty special place to rest up. Within the area, explore a wonderland of ancient natural landscapes formed more than two billion years ago — deep gorges, red cliffs, towering waterfalls and emerald green waterholes, while experiencing a taste of genuine mateship and friendly hospitality.

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Ngurrangga Tours At the top of the Pilbara you’ll find one of, if not the, world’s largest rock art gallery filled with thousands of ancient petroglyphs, dating back six thousand years. Murujuga National Park, recently nominated to become a heritage-listed site, is where you’ll find this impressive natural display and is best experienced with Ngurrangga Tours. With extensive knowledge of Country and Culture, these Aboriginal guides impart their experience on guests who are provided the opportunity to learn about bush foods and medicines, hear traditional stories and songs, and understand the land from

a new perspective. Begin with a Welcome to Country by a Yaburrara traditional owner before journeying through the diverse landscape. The ancient petroglyphs bring history alive, as you hear the stories that were written down millenniums ago and observe depictions of humans and animals, some extinct.

Fitzroy Crossing

Fundraiser

Every donation over $5 free! receives art postcards

The outback town of Fitzroy Crossing is a major centre for Aboriginal arts, and an ideal base to explore the iconic Tunnel Creek, Windjana Gorge and Geikie Gorge. Since January 2023, record floodwaters have completely isolated the town, resulting in a severe social and economical impact. Help with the recovery by donating to the HeARTs for the Fitzroy Floods Campaign and go in the draw to win a stunning painting by Terry Murray, manager and artist at Mangkaja Arts in Fitzroy Crossing. The campaign is geared to provide support and relief where it is most urgently needed.

One hundred per cent of all donations will be delivered directly to the impacted businesses and families. All donations of at least $5 will also receive a free set of art postcards. Donations of over $100 will enter a second draw to win an exclusive hand painted boomerang – one of the last two surviving artefacts from the floods at Fitzroy Crossing Inn.

SCAN QR CODE TO DONATE

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FreeTouring Map Featuring 8 Iconic

ROADTRIPS

Kununurra Kooljaman

Broome

Kimberley Wilderness Loop

PILBARA

Warlu Way

Exmouth

Shark Bay

Fitzroy Crossing

Port Hedland

Karratha Onslow

Derby KIMBERLEY

Ardi Cultural Drive

PLUS Cultural Tours,Bushfood Tours Art Galleries,Accommodation, Cultural Centres,Rock Art Festival and Events

Gibb River Road

AncientTracks NewJourneys

GASCOYNE

AboriginalTours and Experiences

Coral Coast Hwy

Geraldton

Laverton

GOLDFIELDS Golden Quest Discovery Trail

Merredin

Kalgoorlie

Perth Fremantle Bunbury Yallingup

SOUTHWEST South West Edge

Esperance

Albany

FREETOURING MAP OFWA Pick up yours at visitor centres or scan the code to order online

AncientTracks,NewJourneys

COUNTRY STARGAZING BY CAROL REDFORD & DONNA VANZETTI — ASTROTOURISM WA

gazing tips Find more star ents at and country ev om.au a.c astrotourismw Yorkrakine Rock. Photo: Rik Soderlund

One of the most incredible objects to see in the night sky is the Aboriginal constellation of the Emu in the Sky.

t lies within the band of the Milky Way and its shape is outlined by dark areas of the night sky, not the stars. The Emu is best seen throughout winter in dark country skies and is spectacular, spreading right across the evening sky. To find it, first locate the Southern Cross constellation above the southern horizon. Two bright stars directly above due south are, “the Pointers” to the Southern Cross. The Southern Cross is to the right of “the Pointers”. On the left-hand side of the Southern Cross, try to find a dark oval shape, called the Coalsack Nebula. This is the head of the Emu with the beak pointing downward. The long neck stretches to the left through the middle of “the Pointers”. The body and legs of the Emu stretch halfway across the horizon towards the east.

When to look: 8.30pm, mid-June. Which direction to look: South. South Western Australia’s Indigenous people lived by six seasons. When the Emu is seen high in the sky, it indicates weather is changing and getting colder and wetter. This season is called Makuru and was a time to move inland for sheltered locations. Campfires formed the heart of communities, providing warmth and a place to gather for music and storytelling. Another beautiful cosmic view to enjoy will be on the 22nd June when Mars, Venus and the Moon make a close approach together. The three celestial objects will form an almost perfect equilateral triangle in the western sky. The evening star Venus, the red planet Mars and the lovely thin slither of the Moon will make a spectacular site in the twilight sky. When to look: Sunset to 8pm on the 22nd June. Which direction to look: North west.

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UNRIVALLED

durability

www.icom.net.au

SANDY BLIGHT JUNCTION ROAD BY GRANT & LINDA HANAN

Grant and Linda share their experiences of travelling Len Beadell’s favourite track.

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fter travelling overseas some years ago, we realised how lucky we are when it comes to 4WD touring in Australia. Not only do we have the luxury of touring the outback and exploring our country’s wide-open spaces, but the diversity of Australian tracks is something we are yet to experience anywhere else. In many instances, we have people like the

legendary Len Beadell to thank, as he’s done the hard yards and provided many of today’s top touring outback routes. In fact, the Sandy Blight Junction Road was one of Len’s favourites. It was something we’d had on our radar for ages, and the time finally came where we were able to check it out for ourselves.

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ABOUT THE TRACK If you’re familiar with other Len Beadell tracks, the Sandy Blight was another of Len’s that was put in to support the atomic testing era. After setting up a weather monitoring station in 1956 at Giles (Warakurna) as part of the testing program, Len pushed the Sandy Blight Junction Road north just over 330 kilometres into the remote Gibson Desert. The track pretty well runs in a north/south direction and criss-crosses the border of Western Australia and the Northern Territory. It sits between what’s known today as the Great Central Road and the Gary Junction Highway, and crosses the Tropic of Capricorn in the process. In typical Len Beadell fashion, Len continued the simplistic naming convention he followed for his outback roads and highways when naming the track. After suffering Sandy Blight (an eye condition these days known as Trachoma), Len named the road junction at the Great Central Road, Sandy Blight. The new road he created also took this name. Generally, the road is single lane only and can be a bit overgrown in some places. But there are some wider sections as well, and a few slight deviations from the original route along the way too. As far as Len Beadell tracks go, the Sandy Blight is one that seems to have fewer visitors. Its remote location in the middle of Oz isn’t a quick trip for those travelling from either the east or west of the country, so no doubt this would have something to

do with it. But we don’t think that’s a bad thing either. If a lack of people sounds like music to your adventure seeking ears, the diverse and beautiful landscape will be a feast for your eyes. When it comes to track conditions, we found these can vary. At the northern end, you’ll find conditions include a firm and rocky base, through to deep sand and a few sand dune crossings thrown in further south. These aren’t anything serious though. Other sections of the track have a few corrugations thrown into

You’ll find a few corrugations towards the southern end of the track.

the mix as well. While these corrugations aren’t anything major, we found they can be more prevalent at the southern end of the track by the Tjukurla community turnoff. That’s not surprising, as this section more than likely receives a bit more traffic and visited by some of the locals. History-wise, European presence in the area pre-dates Len’s efforts by nearly 100 years. Ernest Giles was one of the early explorers to pass this way when

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You’d be hard pressed to miss this track attraction!

he attempted an east/west crossing of the continent during the 1870s. William Tietkens was also another explorer to traverse the area, visiting around 10 years after Ernest Giles in the 1880s. And intrepid explorer, Frank Hann (who possibly saw more of the country than most other explorers) visited the region some years later in 1903. His expedition saw him travelling from Laverton, WA to South Australia and back again. Indigenous occupation through this section of the desert spans much longer, with four separate Aboriginal groups known to have occupied this region.

One of the pools at Bungabiddy Rockhole.

ATTRACTIONS

spectacular ranges along the way. And luckily for visitors, getting to the top of one of these ranges has been made possible thanks to Len. He cut a track that leads off the Sandy Blight to the top of the magnificent Sir Frederick Range (it’s signposted). But beware! When a signpost warns visitors about the steep gradients of the track and provides actual turnaround point locations, you can expect it’s going to be a dawdle. Be mindful of this if you’re towing. In reality, the track starts off mildly enough, but it does become quite rocky and very steep as you get closer to the summit. If you do make the side trip and get yourself to the top, the views are pretty spectacular.

We found a real highlight of the Sandy Blight turned out to be the natural scenery. It’s an attraction in itself when the track takes you past a number of

But if you’re not keen to take the journey to the summit, there’s still many things to see on the main track with plenty of Len’s signposted plaques. These plaques offer a

We found this pretty spot to stop for a coffee break.

The signpost leading to the summit of Sir Frederick Range.

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We lost count when there was so many relics along the track.

variety of geographical information with most plaques being found on posts and desert oaks. But there’s one you simply can’t miss. It would be near impossible to pass a very brightly painted white metre high rock located trackside at the 200mile mark without seeing it. It sticks out like a sore thumb and is such a contrast to the surrounding landscape. But like so many other outback tracks around the place, we found not everything makes it back to civilisation. If you’re a car buff, there’s plenty of relics of all ages and at various stages of decay along the Sandy Blight. Sedans, utes, wagons, 4WDs, Holdens, Fords — you name it, they’re all there. But coming across a wrecked bus in the middle of the desert was a little unique. Other track highlights include the remnants of an inscribed tree by William Tietkens.

A track local.

However, the tree has unfortunately succumbed to white ants and now being propped up off the ground. Another popular attraction is the twin pools at Bungabiddy Rockhole. This rock hole is located towards the southern end of the Sandy Blight Junction Road and around one kilometre off the track.

FLORA & FAUNA One of the standout features along the Sandy Blight, and a personal favourite, is the desert oaks. Large pockets dominate the landscape for kilometres at a time that easily reach more than 10 metres in height. We found their chorus, as desert winds blew through their foliage, was melodic to say the least. Mulga scrub and spinifex plains add further diversity to the landscape and tops off this touring route nicely. Desert rainfall is one of those

William Tietkens named Mt Liesler during his expedition in 1889.

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There’s no shortage of fabulous campsites along the track.

things that varies from year to year, but it doesn’t seem to restrict the wildflowers. While we were too early in the year to see flowers during our trip, nearly three dozen varieties have been recorded in the region. Track visitors can also experience the usual desert dwellers like camels and wild dogs. We came across the odd camel by the southern end of the track, but only heard howling dogs at night. Birdwatchers will find an assortment of bird varieties as well, with the crested

Catching the last of the sun at camp.

bellbird and cheeky willie-wagtails being the more popular birds sighted during our visit.

CAMPING While there’s no specific designated campsites along the track, you’ll have no problems finding places to pull over for the night. One of these is the granite boulders at the northern end that can be a good place to pull up stumps if you’re starting or finishing the track late in the day. There’s some good protection here from the wind and plenty of space for large groups. Otherwise, there’s always pockets of desert oaks to be found along the track that provide plenty of shade on warm days and perfect for overnight camping. At the track’s southern end, Bungabiddy Rockhole is another popular camp spot when it’s located well away from the road and any passing traffic. When the traffic is generally few and far between anyway, that probably doesn’t really matter! The rock hole is located in a spot that has plenty of room and some

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INFORMATION BAY LOCATION The Sandy Blight Junction Road runs between the Great Central Road (Western Australia) and the Gary Junction Road (Northern Territory), and is a little over 330 kilometres in length.

Stopping to check out another one of Len Beadell’s markers.

DIFFICULTY Medium — The road is one of the more remote 4WD tracks in Australia, so preparation is the key. Make sure you’re completely self-sufficient and carry extra fuel, food, water and comms.

shade, so it’s another drawcard for those travelling in groups. Other good camps include the places where the Len Beadell plaques are located. These areas generally have lots of shade so you can set up between some trees. But you’ll find these areas can be stripped of firewood due to their popularity, so it would pay to collect some while travelling the track before setting up.

FUEL & SUPPLIES The closest fuel and supplies are available either end of the track at Docker River (Kaltukatjara) and Kintore (337 kilometres apart). Call ahead for current opening days/times. Contact details - Docker River (08) 8956 7373 & Kintore (08) 8956 8575.

PARTING WORDS From our own personal experiences of travelling the Sandy Blight Junction Road, we think there’s little wonder it was Len’s favourite. In fact, we’d go as far to say that it could be the best kept secret in the Len Beadell suite of outback roads and highways. And whether you’re a Len Beadell follower or not, it doesn’t really matter. This is just a really good track. So add this one to your list, folks. We think you’ll be far from disappointed.

PERMITS Two permits are required as the Sandy Blight Junction Road straddles two states. Apply online at Ngaanyatjarra Council (www.ngaanyatjarra.org.au) and Central Land Council (www.clc.org.au). Allow 7 days to obtain these permits. An additional two permits are required for travelling the Great Central Road or Gary Junction Road to access the Sandy Blight Junction Road. Both permits can be obtained from the above websites. FACILITIES There’s a bore with a handpump located along the track not far from the WA/NT border, but don’t rely on it. No other facilities are provided. WHEN TO TRAVEL

The track splits into two at the southern end.

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Typical desert temperatures prevail — winter and autumn are the best times due to mild daytime temperatures and cool to cold nights. You’ll need to avoid warmer months when daytime temperatures can sizzle.

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Photo: Tourism WA

BOTTOMING OUT AT BORONUP

BY HARRISON PLATT

Rookie mistakes a novice makes and a day out at Boranup. Admit it or not, we’ve all been in a situation of our own devising where we’ve bellied out a vehicle with wheels stuck spinning like a flailing turtle on a bald man’s head. Sure, I’ve been hung up plenty of times, but my two noteworthy experiences involve a head-shakingly embarrassing bottom out at my local beach of Turkey Point, and a staggering error in judgement whilst traversing Bob’s Track on the way out to Boranup Beach – the focus of this particular piece. What followed these experiences was a phrase as common as it is false. “Well, I’m never doing that again.” Keep a mental checklist in mind; see if you’ve made the same blunders.

here was a particular energy to my morning vigour as my wife and I rushed to pack up camp (and a ninemonth-old) at a mate’s property near Busselton. Their partner had just bought a secondhand Pathfinder and were keen to spin some tyres and get on to some offroading. Naturally, I thought Bob’s Track (Reserve Rd) near Boranup National Park was a great trial by fire for a first timer. If you can wheel a gnarled and worn-out Bob’s Track completely green, you can do most places. [SEE TIP #1] Bob’s can be a prickly beast depending on the season. I say depending, because the sheer traffic this place sees does unfortunately have a bloody deleterious effect on the joint.

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I decided to go with a softer 16 psi front and back, and recommended my mate do the same. [SEE TIP #2] Turns out, Bob’s track definitely was a bit worse for wear, and it offered its usual challenge of limestone pathfinding mixed with tree roots and wombat holes. [SEE TIP #3] The occasional scrunch of rubber and eye-widening rear-end bounces were ever-present features. Despite that, everything was going swimmingly until we approached the infamous hill climb. After getting some boots on the ground, what appeared to be soft sand was just a thin cover for some completely smooth yet rock-hard sandstone which loved to lose traction. Coupled with wombat holes big enough to be charging rent, and you’ve got yourself a section which demands some respect. [SEE TIP #4] There were two options: the left, with its smoother overall gradient but nauseatingly deep alternating ruts, or the right, with fewer overall tricky bits but one nasty steep slope running right up against a tree. To give some perspective,

some of these dig-outs were almost thigh deep. Both vehicles in the convoy were running stock suspension, but I was brimming with the confidence of some fresh 31” wheels. I chose the right- hand track. I lined the wheels up either side and gently fed the pedal, enjoying the throaty and assertive rumble of a diesel engine in low range. A slip and a wheel lift, a tap on the bash plate, and before you know it all four wheels found a footing. We eked our way past the central tree — needing every millimeter that a tucked-in side mirror could give us, but ultimately: success! We rolled up and craned our necks backwards to see that our friends had followed suit with style. Our reward was a leisurely drive through the rest of the bush. The marvellous Boranup Beach peaked up and down over a few hills until we were greeted with wide open views of the ocean. Eagerly, we cruised down onto the beach to find out what the day had in store for us.

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Photo: Tourism WA

What I did find out was that my mate actually white-knuckled the entire experience and was as petrified as the limestone tree-roots we were rolling over. Some tears may have been shed, it has been alleged. Perhaps Bob’s Track was a little ambitious. [SEE TIP #5] The next few hours were comprised of what WA is most famous for — an unbeatable day at the beach. Time raced ahead as it always does, which meant we had to negotiate that bloody sandstone section halfway back down the track.

The following twenty minutes was a mix of true-blue altruism and beautiful dumb luck. All rooted, of course, in my complete and utter shame at being the silly bastard who’d gone and got himself hung up. “Maxtrax?” Asked Legend #1. “Tried it, but I’ve already melted old mate’s a bit so I don’t wanna ruin ‘em.” “Got a strap?” “Yeah, but I left my recovery point at home like an idiot.” [SEE TIP #6] “Towball?” [SEE TIP #7]

Cue that same overconfidence I mentioned earlier.

“Nah, I don’t wanna risk that.” Enter Legend #2.

“Why don’t you just take the same line down that you came up?”, said my mate’s partner.

“Well, I’ve got a recovery hitch you can use, but I don’t have a spare shackle.”

“Nah, it’s cooked going down that way. Too steep. I don’t need to climb it. Gravity will help me roll over most of these.” Yep. Confidence. Straining brakes groaned in protest as I nosed my way over the first two holes, twisting and turning to straddle white sandstone ruts so smooth and worn they look like they’d been removed by a giant’s ice-cream scoop. I approached the last big one, with the central tree now to my left. All I had to do was straddle the rut and the drive up and over the mound in the middle.

“Actually, I’ve got one with me.” “Ok, can you take out your tow hitch?” “Nope, cause I left the wrenches at home with the recovery point.” Legend #3. “Hang on, I think Dad’s got some sockets with him…” Out came the sockets and the tow hitch was switched for the recovery point. A quick twizzle of the bolt, straps on and were green lit. A gentle tensioning of

I’ve got the clearance for that, I thought. The stomach-twisting crunch of metal grating over stone vibrated through the car. Ah. It only took a few minutes of inspection and fruitless chipping before two things happened. One, I realised I wasn’t digging my way out of sandstone. Two, I was about as stuck as an octopus on an exercise ball. Three, actually. The situation had gathered the usual mix of two groups – people eager to help, and people eager to watch.

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the strap and I’d never been so relieved to hear the underbody get such a rock flossing. To top it all off, it was my newby mate who picked out the remaining exit line which I completely missed. A few cold beverages were palmed to the Legends as way of thanks, and it was off to the Karridale General Store for some hot chips and nursing of pride. Standing in queue, I asked my friend how they felt about the whole experience. They were still a bit shaken, but no harm done means a good time was had. “What about you?”, they asked. “Well, I’m never doing that again.”

4W Driving tips Before attempting a track, always phone ahead to the local DPAW offices for important info on track conditions or worse, track closures. Remember, a little politeness goes a long way.

No matter your experience level or vehicle capability, nothing is as effective as pausing, hopping out, and getting a good perspective of the terrain you’re about to tackle.

Soft malleable tyres and a cautious approach will get the job done almost every time.

When travelling within a convoy, clear communication is a must. Make sure your fellow drivers know your concerns, and vice versa.

TIP

For rocks, tyres need to mold around formations to increase traction and decrease puncture chances. For sand, a longer (not wider) footprint increases surface area and reduces the chance of sending your diff to Sandy Jones’ locker. Wombat hole: When by nature or by man, one side of a track’s wheel rut is worn out so extensively it causes vehicle tilt or clearance issues.

TIP

Commonly found on dune ascents where a considerable amount of send is required.

TIP

The most important piece of recovery gear is another set of hands. Don’t be ashamed to ask for help. Most people will be happy to help, and no matter how much it hurts to swallow pride, it’s better than leaving a stuck vehicle.

TIP

Towballs do not have the strength required to reliably endure the mechanical stresses created in recovery situations. If you thought copping a bit of highway gravel to the windscreen was bad…

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TIP

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THE RFDS STORY

BY JOHN COLLINS

PART

The Death of a Ringer & the Bloke on the Twenty Dollar Note

y honour the legacy of Jimmy Darc RFDS and Cheap as Chips staff ture by Joe Grace, Kununurra. sculp orial Mem WA. k, Cree at Halls

Photo: RFDS Central Operations.

John Collins introduces an interesting historical account relating to Halls Creek — a tale of adversity and perseverance instigating amazing innovation. This shared Kimberley history has conspired to influence the evolution of today’s Royal Flying Doctor Service (RFDS), which delivers emergency medical support to itinerant visitors and importantly, the many medical needs of Australians who live or travel beyond the city limits. 52 | Western 4W Driver #126 | western4wdriver.com.au

together with one of the most unusual outback operations in history. These events would make Jimmy and Fred Tuckett bush legends.

t seems unimaginable that at a time when the world was preoccupied with WWI, in 1917, a tragic horse-riding accident leading to the death of James 'Jimmy' Darcy made the front page of most Australian newspapers.

Tuckett was known locally in Halls Creek as WBL for “Whole Bloody Lot” because apart from being a first aider and postmaster, he was also the telegraph operator, magistrate, births, deaths and marriages registrar, commissioner for roads, and the 'Protector of Aborigines'.

The event was a catalyst for change that still reverberates in the daily lives of regional Australians. Today, this tragic incident still captures people’s attention as it continues to have an ongoing ripple effect that improves the lives of the many Australians living or travelling in the Great Outback.

The Operation

The Accident Jimmy Darcy was a stockman at Ruby Plains Station 75km south of Halls Creek. On the fateful day, while working livestock his mount stumbled in a hole, fell heavily, and ended pinning Jimmy for hours, slowly baking in the hot sun until his workmates found him. Once freed from under the animal, the ordeal for Jimmy was far from over, continuing with a 12-hour buggy journey to Halls Creek seeking medical assistance. There would be days of agony to endure

Fred Tuckett realised that Darcy needed immediate medical attention. Using Morse Code, Tuckett telegraphed Wyndham and Derby but the doctors practicing in both towns were on holidays. In desperation, Tuckett sent a telegraph to Dr J (Joe) Holland who was his first-aid instructor nine years previously and who by now had a practice in Perth.

Fred Tuckett with the Morse Code Key.

Dr Holland diagnosed Darcy as having a ruptured bladder advising he had to be operated on immediately. At a blistering rate of about twenty words per minute, messages flashed back and forth in Morse Code. The cattle industry is still important to Halls Creek. Artist, Barry Deni was born in Halls Creek in 1970 and has been painting since 1993. Barry's landscapes are inspired by both his Jaru mother's country of Margaret River and his Kija father's country of Alice Downs as well as drawing on his life as a stockman in the Kimberley and Northern Territory. These two painted rubbish bins are installations at the Helicopter Memorial, which represents scenes of helicopters mustering cattle as a mark of respect for those “helicopter ringers” who have been tragically lost. Photo: Yarliyil Art Centre, Halls Creek.

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The Vinot Deguin and Dr. Holland outside his Katanning home. Photo: The Holland family.

'You must operate.' … 'But I have no instruments.' … 'You have a penknife and razor.' … 'What about drugs?' … 'Use permanganate of potash.' … 'But I can't do it.' … 'You must.' … 'I might kill the man.' … 'If you don't hurry, the patient will die first.' Reluctantly, Tuckett strapped Darcy to the table and began operating according to detailed instructions he previously received via the Morse Code telegraph. He gave his patient morphia to ease the pain and prepared a small penknife with gauze wrapped around the blade to prevent too deep an incision. In the cool of the

late afternoon, he went to work at about 4pm while Dr Holland waited anxiously in the Perth Telegraph office. Eventually, at 8pm, a Morse Code message sounded out that the operation had been successful, but Darcy was in a very weak state. He needed professional care and attention. Tuckett and Darcy’s two elder brothers, urged Doctor Holland to come north, to Halls Creek, to save their brother.

Saving Jimmy: Dr Holland's Diary Extract Dr Holland agreed and took the next ship scheduled to leave Fremantle for Derby, which was the State Steamship, SS Moira, chartered to carry cattle but not licensed to carry passengers. Dr Holland was required to sign on as a cattleman and to sleep in the mess room for the eight days of the coastal journey north. SS Moira sailed on the 9th August at 1pm. In the meantime, Darcy's dilemma had caught the imagination of the Australian public who followed the progress of the saga with insatiable interest. Day One — 16 Aug, 1917

Marion Bell in 1925 was the first woman to circumnavigate Australia in a motor car. Marion met some locals near Fitzroy Crossing driving a Ford Model T (formally owned by the famous overland adventurer, Francis Birtles) as she drove the same route travelled by Dr Holland in 1917 from Derby to Halls Creek. Photo: G Cocks collection.

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Dr Holland arrived in Derby at 11.30am, departing at 3.30pm in a Ford Model T car travelling via Yeeda Station (46km from Derby) to Lower Liveringa (90km from Derby), arriving at 7.15pm. Dr Holland commented on the general topography of the country transited. He noted the appearance of Boab Trees, abundance of kangaroos, bush turkeys and on seeing

cattle thickly infested with ticks that… “may be seen hanging on to the skin like flies”. Day Two — 17 Aug, 1917 Dr Holland departed Lower Liveringa at 7am after a good breakfast. The Model T passed through Mt Anderson Station and reached Upper Liveringa Station (136km from Derby) at about 10am. After leaving Upper Liveringa, the Model T arrived at Noonkanbah Station about 2.45pm and Dr Holland was surprised to meet Jack Tolly, an acquaintance from Katanning. It was a good road on to Jubilee Downs Station and he decided to stay for the night in the homestead positioned next to the Fitzroy River. Day Three — 18 Aug, 1917 Dr Holland slept well and rose at 5am, departing at 6.30am for Fitzroy Crossing. The Model T arrived at Fitzroy Crossing Post Office (354km from Derby) at 8.15am. Dr Holland departed from the post office

with a new team being Jack Johnson and Bernard Barclay as the driver of a different Ford Model T car. The reason for the change of vehicle and crew wasn’t recorded by Dr Holland, but he described the vehicle as having no mudguards and the car appeared to be held together with considerable amount of greenhide rope. The first challenge occurred half a mile into the journey. Fortunately, the Model T was able to be pushed by seven people across the sandy bed of the Fitzroy River and up the opposite river bank. Holland noted … “the banks are too steep for a car to climb even if there were no sand.” The party encountered fair roads after this for the next 30 kilometres and they sat down for lunch in Go-Go Station near where it adjoins Fossil Downs Station. The men set off again at about 4pm, but shortly after the Model T engine had a “big end go” in the engine and the party camped at the breakdown site 43 kilometres from Fitzroy Crossing. Day Four — 19 Aug, 1917 The engine was taken down and a replacement big end fitted. This occupied most of Sunday, and they left the camping spot at 4pm. The men only travelled about eight kilometres when the big end broke again. The party camped at the foot of the Black Hills Creek for the night.

The Fitzroy Crossing Airstrip on 4th April 2023 looking toward Jubilee Downs along the flooded road that Dr J Holland travelled in a Model T Ford in 1917.

Model T Ford big end bearing emergency or roadside repairs could be done using leather as shown above. These temporary repairs would last for 1000 or more kilometres of normal driving.

Photo: Shoal Air.

Photo: Model T Ford Forum.

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Day Five — 10 Aug, 1917 Bernard Barclay quickly fitted another big end into the engine. Although this repair job was finished by 12 noon, Dr Holland wrote that they had lost two whole days of travelling time and found they were now short of food. There were only two more meals left and the next chance of getting more food would be at Louisa Downs Station, which was 88 kilometres further to the east. Considering the state of the car together with the bad roads it didn’t appear sensible to proceed. Another breakdown could leave them a long way from food in both directions with very little chance of other travellers finding them on the road. Jack Johnson advised making for Fossil Downs Station homestead to get a fresh supply of food, although it was 28 kilometres back and some distance off the main road. The party departed the Black Hills Creek camp about 1pm and after an arduous time crossing the Margaret River, they arrived at Fossil Downs Station about 4pm. The men were hospitably received, then regaled with a good meal and good bed, together with a shower bath.

that the nature of the country would prevent further progress. Dr Holland lamented … “Although we are 60 hours out from Fitzroy Crossing we are only 40 kilometres on our way to Halls Creek. We should be in Halls Creek tonight 20/8/17 and my wife will be anxious for news of me tomorrow although she will not get any until about 4 days' time.” Day Six — 21 Aug, 1917 Dr Holland slept well before having a good breakfast of fresh rissoles and other good food. Mr Leahy the station manager provided supplies of “tucker”, salt meat, flour, and tobacco. The men left the station at 7am and with the aid of ten Aboriginal stockmen, easily crossed the sandy Margaret River riverbed. All went well for 12 kilometres, until they arrived at the Mount Pierre Creek crossing again, which entailed much pushing after unloading to get the car up a steep bank.

The party had some pushing to do when they crossed the Louisa Creek. At that point they had difficulty keeping the engine running as the petrol level was low and the fuel would not run into the carburettor with the car on the side of a As the car had run well to Fossil Downs hill. The country was well grassed with the party planned to leave at 7am abundant soft spinifex and the group and try to reach Palm Springs about next stopped at Morgan’s Grave to get 100 kilometres east. They anticipated water for the Model T’s leaky radiator. The petrol was running very low, too low to keep the engine running until they reached their petrol cache that was now about 8 kilometres away. Dr Holland recorded that … “We emptied the tank into an oil tin with the rubber tubing from my stethoscope. We attached this to the naphtha pipe and then into the tin making a siphon. This gallon brought us along to where we had the naphtha waiting.” The party made camp Fossil Downs buildings with Boab Trees and Devonian Reef at Palm Springs around 6.30pm hills in the background. and remained for the night. Photo: Helen Kent.

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Day Seven — 22 Aug, 1917 The men finally departed the Palm Springs camp at 7am as their plan for an early start was hindered with some motor troubles. They arrived at Louisa Downs Station at 9am but elected to continue directly to Margaret River Station, now 25 kilometres away. Stockmen from the station met them with sufficient horses to tow the Model T over the Margaret River. They reached the Margaret River Station homestead at 12.30pm to be treated to an excellent meal and hospitably. Although another 90 kilometres ahead, Dr Holland planned to reach Moola Bulla Station the same evening. Departing Margaret River Station at 2pm the party travelled about 20 kilometres when they met Mr Haly, the manager of the Government Cattle Station Moola Bulla travelling in a buggy. Jack Johnson was tasked with returning the buggy while Haly got into the Model T. About 30 kilometres from Moola Bulla and just as it was getting dark, they met some Aboriginal runners carrying letters from Fred Tuckett stating that Darcy’s condition was getting worse. Instead of camping, they drove into the darkness over the rough track and despite the danger of night travelling in such rough country, the Model T reached breakneck speeds of up to 50 kilometres per hour. Dr Holland was determined to make Halls Creek as soon as possible, which was still more than 70 kilometres ahead. They reached Moola Bulla Station at 9pm to greeted by Mrs Haly, who Holland described as … “a fine woman who is willing to make herself happy with a good husband in this outlandish spot 440 kilometres from Wyndham and 600 kilometres from Derby”. Following a quick meal, at about 10.15pm the men struck out to travel the remaining 45 kilometres to Halls Creek. However, after travelling about five kilometres another big end bearing broke in the Model T engine. Jack Egan and

Haly decided to walk back to the station and arrange horses and a sulky (light weight two wheeled cart) to continue the journey to Halls Creek. Day Eight — 23 Aug, 1917 The Aboriginal stockmen had to catch the horses in the dark, making it difficult to determine the most suitable for pulling the sulky. At about 1am they made a start, with Egan riding one horse in front to point the track with Haly and Dr Holland in the sulky. The men drove 20 kilometres to a well, watered and changed the horses so that Egan was riding the one that had been pulling the sulky. Dr Holland recorded … “The country is frightfully rough and hilly, and we arrived at Halls Creek at about 5.30am, having done 120 miles (195km) since departing Palm Springs the previous day. We went at once to Tuckett's house and heard the heart-breaking news that Darcy had died at 9.30am the previous day. This news upset me more than I can express, and I felt that I had lost someone that was near and dear to me. Tuckett had felt the strain of three weeks' anxiety and hoped to keep the man going until my arrival and he was quite broken down.” The Darcy brothers asked Dr Holland to perform a post-mortem on Jimmy primarily to satisfy Fred Tuckett and assure the small population of 20 people that everything had been done for the best. Dr Holland’s diary records … “I found that the incisions had been skilfully performed, no injury to intestines, no peritonitis, stomach enormously dilated, probably 2 1/2 times the normal size: Spleen 4 1/2 times normal and positively malarial. He had been having attacks of abdominal pain for about 10 months, occurring every few weeks lasting a couple days and accompanied by vomiting. I found the appendix in a mass of old adhesions very thickened and at one spot in its side there was a

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dilatation about halfway in its length. No lung condition. There was no evidence of sepsis, kidneys looked normal. No pelvic abscess, no pelvic fracture, bladder quite clear and normal except for the fistula. The shivering attacks which started a few days before he died were ague … (malaria) … and this actually caused his death. I gave a certificate and Tuckett RM gave an order for burial. A coffin was made out of old cases and lined with a sheet, Darcy in his pyjamas was closed up. The coffin was borne in a buggy to the grave about 400 yards away where there is a little cemetery established in 1886 when the Kimberley gold rush occurred. The total population about 20 men followed the coffin and Tuckett read the service of Church of England and the men walked away without a word, each trying to hide the sorrow they had in their hearts as these men of the bush are very much attached to one another and each knows that in all probability death will be by accident in the dangerous life they lead amongst the cattle in a rough lonely country”.

Back to Fremantle Dr Holland busied himself while in the Kimberley and he provided an account of the medical services provided to people as he travelled. His medical activities ranged from providing impromptu first aid lectures, routine consultations, to completing minor surgical procedures. The return trip began with departing Halls Creek on 01/09/1917 by buggy for Moola Bulla Station. The next day, Dr Holland departed Moola Bulla in the repaired Model T just after midday – true to form for this particular car, the first interruption occurred by 4pm, although this episode was a broken rear axle! Eventually the repaired axle was refitted the next day but, after travelling

another 20 minutes … “the car stopped again in a place devoid of shade and two miles from water”. It was decided that the remainder of the journey to Fitzroy Crossing was to be accomplished using horses. The “Derby” Model T Ford waiting as scheduled, and Dr Holland departed the “Crossing” Monday 10/9/17 in the early afternoon. It was decided to “make a dash” for Derby driving through the night so that Holland arrived midmorning Tuesday taking about 15 hours to complete the 340-kilometre trip. He then waited in Derby … “from Tuesday till Saturday for the boat the Moira, which returned me to Fremantle on Saturday 22/9/17”. Dr Holland altogether had travelled almost 7,500 kilometres. Some accounts suggest that the Reverend John Flynn actually met Holland as he alighted from the Fremantle to Perth train but, nevertheless Flynn used the Jimmy Darcy story as a graphic illustration of the need for aero-medical services in the Australian Outback. The next part of this story is about how this tragic horse-riding accident, and finally the death of Jimmy Darcy from malaria, became a catalyst for change that resulted in the establishment of the RFDS as we know it today, an organisation that literally every day saves lives of regional Australians.

A RFDS Pilatus PC-12 aircraft operating on a remote airfield. Western Australia currently has 17 PC-12s operating in the RFDS fleet. Photo: RFDS

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FORGOTTEN GOLDFIELDS of Western Australia Prospecting areas from Exmouth, Onslow, Carnarvon & the Pilbara

BY AARON RUDDOCK

WA’s FORGOTTEN GOLDFIELDS — CORAL BAY to KARRATHA

“Never put off 'til tomorrow what may be done day after tomorrow just as well.” Mark Twain

The good news is that even though WA is a massive state, many ‘gold-bearing’ regions are readily accessible.

Considering nuggets don’t ‘grow back’, maybe not a great mantra when it comes to finding gold. With the continuing progress in Minelab’s metal detectors, prospecting is one of those ‘bucketlist’ items that may be best to not keep putting off.

re there really goldfields that are accessed from Exmouth, Carnarvon and Onslow, as well as from all the major towns within the Pilbara?

Just driving along the North West Coastal Highway from Carnarvon to Karratha and Port Hedland, you will have driven through four of WA’s major goldfields. There are several gold rich regions that are either directly crossed over or accessed within minutes of the highway.

EXMOUTH Base –

Heading towards Nanutarra Roadhouse

When most people think of gold prospecting within Western Australia, they usually think of the Kalgoorlie region, all the way up to Meekatharra and across to Cue and Mt Magnet. One of the things I find fascinating about prospecting in WA is the breadth of locations you can strike gold at. There are so many ‘other’ WA goldfields with an even greater accumulated landmass to explore. Here are a few to start with:

Approximately 38 kilometres and 28 kilometres prior to the Nanutarra Roadhouse are two gold structural zones that are cut by the highway. Around this area there are several abandoned copper mines that are also good places to look for some gold.

ONSLOW – Less than 45mins The area surrounding the turn-off to Onslow, extending 40 kilometres south towards the Nanutarra Roadhouse, is

western4wdriver.com.au | Western 4W Driver 126 | 61 #

highly prospective for gold. This area historically has had large areas without any live exploration leases. It’s definitely worth checking the latest tenement status in the area to find which of the many gold areas can be accessed with just a short walk from the highway.

KARRATHA — Roebourne The majority of people we meet looking into doing some prospecting do not initially know that Karratha is the doorway to one of Australia’s largest goldfields. This is called the ‘Pilbara Craton’ and extends all the way to Port Hedland and inland to Marble Bar and Nullagine. This includes old workings and underexplored gold zones just a few kilometres from Roebourne.

CARNARVAN – Inland Goldfields A three-to-four-hour drive inland from Carnarvon is one of my favourite and best gold producing areas for prospectors. It may require planning for some camping, but in the past 10 years I have always been able to find areas that are highly productive for nuggets and not covered by live leases. If you’re set up for 4WD camping, Carnarvon is the perfect town to base yourself in for prospecting expeditions nearby.

PARABURDOO, NEWMAN, TOM PRICE and PANNAWONICA There are far too many locations in WA to cover them all in this article, but the Great Northern Highway from Meekatharra

Depiction of areas of known concentrated gold deposits.

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to Newman is just like the North West Coastal Highway when it comes to cutting through gold areas. It’s easy to see why WA is the envy of prospectors not just all over Australia, but internationally.

looking for the red-crossed picks symbol. This indicates the location of a mine.

QUICK TIP for USING GEOLOGY MAPS in the KALGOORLIE GOLDFIELDS

Visit the following websites for more information: dmp.wa.gov.au/Minerals/Where-you-cango-prospecting-2426.aspx

A geologic map or geological map is a special-purpose map made to show properties of rocks and various geological features on earth’s surface. 1) The geology maps will show areas that have rocks coloured in a pink or pinkshaded colour. These are the ‘granite’ areas and are significantly less likely to have any gold area … in most areas the 'granite rocks' have no gold. 2) Start in the areas that are coloured any other colour — just not pink! 3) You can prioritise these areas by

• You will first need to comply with the Western Australian prospecting regulations to ensure the areas are not covered by an active lease.

dmp.wa.gov.au/Minerals/Prospectorsfossickers-1525.aspx#lifestage=PAE N.B. These tips are equally applied when using Geology Maps from the goldfields around Karratha to Port Hedland and inland to Marble Bar.

DIRT FISHING It’s always great meeting new people that genuinely would like to go on their first prospecting trip. We do try to keep expectations of finding your own gold ‘patch’ realistic. There is a

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reason prospecting has the nickname ‘Dirt Fishing’. Just like fishing, I’ve unfortunately disappointed my family on more than a few occasions when heading to the beach to catch some fish for dinner. The same will always be the case with gold prospecting … not that you were planning on eating the nuggets. We’ll never guarantee a catch every time we go fishing, or to fill our pockets with nuggets on every trip, but we can definitely increase the success-to-failure ratio. Two important factors that increase your chances of catching some fish … and finding some of WA’s gold nuggets: 1) Having good equipment (i.e. Pulse Induction metal detectors) is important, but like any craft, the skills for success include: a. Understanding how to correctly use the equipment (detailed training should be provided by a Minelab Dealer), b. Getting advice from those with genuine experience; and,

Pulse Induction Metal Detectors are obviously one of the very few purchases that can pay for themselves, with the latest GPX-6000 finding nuggets in areas heavily detected and considered ‘oldground’. The SDC-2300, one of the best gold detectors and one of the cheapest options, is still several thousand dollars, new or second-hand. For those looking to get started but not quite ready to invest in their own piece of equipment, hiring is a good place to start. At Reeds Prospecting Supplies, weekly hire rates average around $40 per day for the latest gold detectors. For many, gold prospecting is one of those ‘one-day-I’ll-do-it’ experiences that keep getting put off — whether it be due to lack of equipment, know-how, or understanding of location. Don’t let that put you off. It’s very doable and once you’re out there, the thrill of discovery will have you wondering what took you so long. Hope to see you out there one day.

c. Time on-the-ground to ‘fine-tune’ the skills of the trade. 2) Choosing the location. Obviously don’t go fishing on a sand bar, when there’s a large reef around the corner abundant with fish. Prospecting in areas of historic gold mines is still the obvious place to start. Staying away from areas that have the wrong geology or no history of gold mining, dramatically increases your chances for success.

METAL DETECTORS Tools fit-for-purpose is one of the most important factors for success with metal detecting within WA. Like most things these days ‘you get what you pay for’ and the majority of the VLF-technology gold detectors priced around $1,000 will simply not cope with our iron-rich ground conditions.

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DONE the DUNN One for the more experienced 4W driver — the Dunn’s Track traverses remote country with constantly changing terrain and spectacular scenery from start to finish. BY KARL FEHLAUER / WESTRALIAN IMAGES

ithout stating the obvious, Western Australia is a massive state. As most of the population lives on the coastal fringe, there are vast amounts of remote land away from the coast essentially untouched and in pristine condition. One such place is the Southern Goldfields and the Great Southern Regions. Almost every 4W driver in this state would have at least heard of, if not travelled, the Holland Track from Hyden to Coolgardie and unfortunately its popularity has led to a gradual decline in the condition of the track. For those willing to travel a fraction further south and into remote country,

there is a little travelled track that has largely been forgotten by a majority of 4W drivers, which is well worth exploring — the Dunn’s Track. The Dunn’s Track is the twin of the Holland Track, but unlike the Holland Track, it hasn’t suffered any significant damage and is in an almost pristine condition. The Dunn’s Track goes from Cocanarup (approximately 18km southwest of Ravensthorpe) to the now abandoned town of Dundas (approximately 22km south of Norseman). The track was first constructed in 1894 by Walter Dunn, who had set up a store

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at Cocanarup to provide supplies to travellers travelling from Albany to the Dundas Goldfields.

Ravensthorpe where we were going to meet some more friends and stay overnight at the Greenhaven Caravan Park.

The area had been first explored by Surveyor General John Roe in 1848 and during this time he named the large granite rock ‘Peak Charles’ after the then Governor Charles Fitzgerald and a smaller granite rock ‘Peak Eleanor’ after the governor’s wife. Both these granite formations form significant points of interest when travelling the track.

Our convoy now consisted of four vehicles, myself in my Navara towing a camper trailer, Pat and Annette in a Troopy towing a camper trailer, Simon and Sue in a Patrol also towing a camper trailer and Mick in his 100 Series.

I first heard of the Dunn’s Track when I saw a YouTube video by Allan McCall, where he tried to follow the original track as best as he could to Dundas, piquing my interest to explore it for myself. Luckily, that opportunity came in January 2022, when a group of friends and I decided to travel the track and do a reconnaissance for a possible future trip for my 4WD club. So, in early January we met at the Lions Carpark in Williams, formed a small convoy and headed to

The next morning everyone was up bright and early and soon we were all packed up and our small convoy of four vehicles was on the road heading in an easterly direction along the Great Southern Highway towards Carlingup Road and on reaching it, we did a left-hand turn and travelled about 200 metres to find a safe spot to pull over and air down. I dropped my tyre pressures to 20 PSI on the front and 25 PSI on the rear and on my camper trailer. Once everyone finished, we headed off along Carlingup Road for 14 kilometres before turning

Airing down on Carlingup Road.

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left onto Nindilbillup Road. Once on Nindilbillup Road, we had the state vermin proof fence on our right and bush land on our left. After travelling for approximately nine kilometres we came to a road on our right that crossed the vermin proof fence — make sure that you securely close the gate once you have passed through it. Up until this point, the road was mostly gravel; however, once we crossed the vermin proof fence the track turned to sand. As you pass through the gate and onto the track, if you look to your left, you will see the remains of an old doggers hut and a sign that reads ‘Coujinup Track’. Don’t worry, you are on the Dunn’s Track and the ‘Coujinup Track’ is another track that you are on for a while before it turns south (it is signposted). You are now heading into very remote country and the scenery is simply stunning, even in summer, but in spring with all the wildflowers out it would be spectacular and I hope to make a return trip there for the season. As you head along the track you are heading in a north-easterly direction (this is important — see footnote at the end).

The track conditions change constantly from sand to gravel as does the scenery. One minute you are driving through low scrubland and the next minute you are in mallee scrubland before eventually entering the southern section of the Great Western Woodlands. As it was summer, the sand was very soft and the going was very slow. We also had to take care as there was lots of exposed mallee roots and other sharp objects, which would later prove to be an issue. My maps indicated a number of points of interest to look out for, such as soaks, but despite our best efforts, we had no luck on that front as the growth was just too thick. Not only that, shortly before we crossed Cascade Road, the hazardous ground caused Pat a flat tyre, which we immediately pulled over to fix. I took a moment to soak in the surrounds. The beauty of this country just has to be seen to be believed. After a short while, Pat had the tyre fixed and we headed off again, unfortunately this wasn’t to be the first, or last puncture for the trip. After crossing Cascades Road, we continued in the north-easterly direction and the track constantly changed from soft sand to hard gravel.

Fixing a flat tyre.

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This is how you do it!

Eventually we came to another significant crossroad and on my maps, it showed that the road continued northeast, so I crossed over and continued. However, after about 500 metres, the scrub started to close in and it became very tight (luckily, I am not worried about scratches!). It came to a sudden stop and I was faced with a wall of scrub and trees. This presented a bit of a problem; I had my camper trailer on and so did Simon in the vehicle behind me. Though we are both experienced drivers, it was unlikely that either of us would be able to reverse back the 800 metres or so to the crossroad without doing damage to the vehicles or camper trailers. The solution? Out came the chainsaws and we began creating a clearing big enough to do a ‘U’ turn. As we were doing so, you could clearly see that we weren’t the first ones to have got stuck here and had to clear the scrub to turn around. It took about 45 minutes to clear a path and get both vehicles turned around and heading back to the crossroad. Once we arrived back at the crossroad, Pat and Mick were waiting for us and I

looked at the maps to try and work out where to go. Both maps showed that the track we were on should have gone straight ahead but in reality, it just wasn’t the case. After a bit of a discussion, I decided to turn and take the track south. The sand here was the softest so far on the trip and a couple of the cars had some minor difficulties. After about two kilometres, we came across a road that went east, so I turned left and started to follow it and soon my electronic map showed that we had re-joined the original track. Not long after, we came to another track that went off to the left and on my map, it showed that track going to a soak. I asked Mick, who was solo in his LandCruiser and not towing, if he would go down and scout it out. No luck. All Mick got from his brief expedition was a punctured tyre. Pushing on, we eventually met views of Peak Charles on the distant horizon. If you haven’t seen it before, it is an amazing site. As we continued in the north-easterly direction, the terrain started to dramatically change. We were now

Mornos on the track.

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entering the southern boundary of the Great Western Woodlands and the trees were bigger and the scrub became much denser. The constantly changing scenery and terrain was one of the most amazing elements of the trip. Every time we came up over a ridge line, it felt like we were in a different part of the country. With the track becoming more challenging, on my map I noticed a place called Dog Rock and decided to take a deviation to have a look. There is something about the granites in WA that always impress me. We spent about half an hour there soaking in the sights. I put my drone up to gain a new perspective while the others made a quick trip to the top of the rock. Looking at the screen of my tablet, the view provided by the drone was spectacular, with Peak Charles and Peak Eleanor close on the horizon. Time was getting on and, as I wanted to be in Dundas before dark, we headed off and decided to not stop at Peak Charles, continuing onto the Coolgardie – Esperance Highway as the road now became wider and appeared to be better maintained. That didn’t last long and soon we hit the worst corrugations that

I have experienced in some time; they went on for kilometres. They were so bad that it shook one of the doors on my camper trailer open as I was driving and managed to do some minor damage — luckily, it wasn’t too bad and more annoying than anything else. A quick, dodgy repair and we were on our way again. We passed Peak Charles and soon we were on Lake King – Norseman Road, I use this term loosely as the conditions and corrugations were bad. After about 30 minutes of bone-jarring driving, we reached the intersection with the Coolgardie – Esperance Highway, and we pulled over and aired up. Pat also decided to swap out his rear tyre with his spare. The last 70 or so kilometres were to be via the black top, so we pulled out onto the highway and were soon up to touring speed. After 40 minutes or so, we reached the turn off to Dundas and we all turned right and slowly drove the last three kilometres or so to the old townsite. On arrival, we settled on places to camp, setting up in quick time with a brew on. It was still daylight but there were some storm clouds looming in the western sky and lightning could be seen; however,

Damaged door.

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Friendly advice.

the sky overhead was clear and luckily the weather held up for us that night. Overall, it was a great day and the Dunn’s Track was a fabulous drive and despite a few punctures and light damage to my camper trailer, we all agreed that we would do it again. From Dundas, we made our way home via Norseman, the Old Hyden – Norseman Road and Hyden, but that’s a story for another day. Footnote — This article is about my first trip on the track in January 2022. We did this track again at Easter 2023 and following a major bushfire over the previous summer period, the first part of the track starting at the vermin proof fence was bulldozed to form a fire break. It follows the track for some distance but at one point after coming out of a creek line the fire break turns south; however, the Dunn’s Track continues in a northeast direction towards Cascades Road. Make sure that at all times you follow a track that goes in a north-easterly direction, do not go south.

INFORMATION BAY DISTANCE The track is roughly 230km from Ravensthorpe to Dundas, with the last 70km being on bitumen. The total travel time was just on eight hours, including stops. TERRAIN The track from the start point on Carlingup Road to Dog Rock is a mixture of gravel and sand, which in summer was very soft. You will need good maps but need to understand that they probably haven’t been updated for some time. There are many tracks that don’t appear on the maps or that at times, the track you are trying to navigate by following on the map doesn’t exist anymore. DIFFICULTY If you are an experienced 4W driver and comfortable being in remote country, then I would highly recommend this track but you do need to be prepared and don’t take it lightly. WHEN TO TRAVEL Most times — check conditions with shires.

More repairs.

Dundas.

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BEFORE YOU GO BUSH GO TO Over 30 Years Family Owned and Operated

08 9335 4803

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Ancient land

Bursting with Blooms

Tourism WA

Learn from the locals by timing your next trip to Australia’s largest biosphere with the Ravensthorpe Wildflower Show. The ecological diversity of the region is unparalleled and ripe for exploring.

BY TORI WILSON

f you harbour an appreciation for unique flora, no doubt Ravensthorpe Ranges of the Fitzgerald Biosphere Coast region is on your list of biodiversity hotspots to travel to. In Ravensthorpe, wildflower season is really any time of year, however the Ravensthorpe Wildflower Show from 11 – 23 September will see over 700 specimens on display in the Ravensthorpe Town Hall, bursting with a variety of colours, shapes and aromas to admire and inhale. This internationally acclaimed annual festival is a vibrant celebration of the incredibly diverse flora found along the south coast of Western Australia. The impressive Ravensthorpe Regional Herbarium will also be open for guided visits for the duration of the show.

If you manage to time your next trip to the Fitzgerald Biosphere Coast with the Ravensthorpe Wildflower Show, one of the best ways to experience the richness of the area’s plant life is out in nature itself on an interactive 4WD tag along tour of the Ravensthorpe Range. Hosted on the 15th and 16th of September, Landscape Ecologist Nathan McQuoid will lead the charge along with local SES manager Keith Rowe and Christine Rowe who will supply all attendees with radios for group communication. With a meticulous knowledge of the local ecology, Nathan will identify points of interest along the way and divulge his insights into the incredible botanical heritage of the place.

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It's the trees and woodlands that pique Nathan’s interest most. He’s that passionate, he even named a new species of tree in December 2021 — Eucalyptus merleae (Myrtaceae), a beautiful little tree with coppery bark and an umbrella shaped canopy, which can be found in the south and north of town on the slopes of the range.

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Tourism WA

When speaking with Nathan, he describes the ancient range as a greenstone intrusion into the yilgarn block that comprises most of the south west of Western Australia. It’s what is called ‘ultra-mafic’ rock, which are volcanic in origin and, over billions of years, have weathered into an array of soil types to form a low range of hills running about 45 kilometres north-west, south-east. While a relatively small area when compared with the approximate 330,000-hectare Fitzgerald River National Park, it equals it in ecological richness and diversity, largely attributable to its age, underlying geology and intricate collection of soil types. It’s home to over 1,500 plant species, approximately 50 being endemic species known only to the area. Grevilleas, Beaufortia orbifolia or Ravensthorpe bottlebrush and Pimelea physodes or Qualup bell (with stunning petals graduating from deep mauve to pale cream) are just a few to look out for.

With the best places to spot wildflowers varying from year to year, Nathan says chat to the locals when arriving for tips on other spots to explore while in the area. Recognised by UNESCO as a place of ecological significance, the Fitzgerald Biosphere is Western Australia’s only biosphere and the country’s largest. Across the duration of the wildflower show, guided hikes will also be available through Fitzgerald National Park. Led by local rangers, the walk will highlight a variety of geological features of the area and, with over 1883 plant species within the park and 50-60 endemic, you’ll have the chance to witness a variety of plants that grow nowhere else in the world naturally. The Hakea Victoria is one species that will only colour in its natural state and is a unique, colourful plant. Follow old fishing tracks and eventually join up with the world-renowned Hakea Trail, with the most spectacular views of the rugged coastline.

Another highlight to note: just 15 kilometres out of town, pay a visit to the Kukrearup Reconciliation Memorial site. One of two of its kind in Australia, the site pays homage to the Noongar people who were massacred in 1880 a few kilometres from Ravensthorpe, an area known to Noongar people as Cocanarup. The Ravensthorpe Historical Society and the Noongar groups whose families were affected by this event came together to bring the site to fruition in 2015. Information boards educate visitors on the event, while words by Aboriginal people invite them to pause and reflect. The site was awarded the 2016 State Heritage Award. The area is also home to an array of orchid species, resurrection plants and other diverse flora. Visit wildflowersravensthorpe.org.au for the full program.

Guided hikes will be available through Fitzgerald National Park across the duration of the wildflower show. Photo: Sue Leighton

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Protect against dieback The dieback vulnerable zone is indicated by the green area on this map. Image: South Coast Natural Resource Management

Naturally, humans are by far the main culprits for spreading the disease. We carry it on our vehicles, shoes and equipment such as tent pegs, recovery gear and trailers. Follow these basic dieback hygiene principles to do your part in slowing the spread of this disease:

CLEAN ON ENTRY, CLEAN ON EXIT

Dieback has many direct and indirect impacts on our native ecosystems. It is recognised as a key threat to over 230 threatened species nationally – almost double the number of threatened species that are known to be threatened by feral cats. Ravensthorpe is on the edge of the dieback vulnerable zone, defined as the area of southwest WA where the average rainfall is more than 400mm per year. This is because the microscopic organism that causes dieback in plants needs a certain amount of moisture in the soil to be able to survive and thrive. Once introduced to an area, dieback cannot be eradicated and the effects it has on the environment are irreversible. The only way to protect our native plants is to avoid spreading it into uninfected landscapes.

Remove any soil from shoes, car or bike with a brush. Vehicles should be washed thoroughly at a car wash before the next adventure. It's good for your car and it's good for the bush!

‘MUD STICKS – DON’T SPREAD IT’

Avoid accessing sensitive areas in wet conditions. When it rains, the soil from tracks becomes sticky, increasing the risk of spreading disease.

STAY ON TRACKS

If you leave the tracks, you could introduce dieback into a previously uninfected area.

BE INFORMED

There is plenty more information out there. Visit dieback.net.au or ask for information pamphlets such as the Code Off-road guide at your local visitors’ centre.

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Bendix Ultimate 4WD Big Brake Upgrade Kits are available for selected 4WD wagons and dual cab utes. Featuring advanced brake pads, disc brake rotors, calipers, braided lines and a host of ancillary items.

Find solutions for every brake job at www.bendix.com.au Or freecall the Bendix Brake Advice Centre on 1800 819 666 Bendix is a trademark of Garrett Advancing Motion Inc.

Kalbarri's

Unique Wildflowers

Kalbarri is home to more than 40 orchid species. Two of these species, the Kalbarri Spider Orchid (Caladenia wanosa) and the Kneeling Hammer Orchid (Drakaea concolor) occur only in Kalbarri. Their exquisite flowers can be found in late winter and early spring.

The most reliable areas to see Kalbarri orchids are in the inland National Park at the Z-Bend Lookout, Kalbarri Skywalk and the first section of the Four Ways Trail.

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he Kalbarri Spider to 30cm in height and, like Orchid is declared all hammer orchids, has a single heart-shaped leaf. It rare and features cream, is most commonly found red flowers. It is perhaps in sandy areas along the most closely related to Murchison River. Plants the Drooping Spider grow in open clearings Orchid (Caladenia amongst dense shrubs. radialis) but has an erect dorsal sepal and clubbed One of the more common lateral sepals. The calli are orchid species is the also in two rows, rather Cowslip Orchid (Caladenia than dense mass. The flava). This pretty orchid is Kalbarri Spider Orchid. orchard usually occurs renowned for its brilliant as scattered individuals yellow flowers which occur rather than in clumps from July to December. It and is often single flowered. It is most is commonly seen in the inland Kalbarri common in the Murchison River area National Park. between Kalbarri and Eurardy Station. Near Kalbarri it grows under tall shrubs amongst outcroppings of sandstone and particularly along the top edges of gorges.

Cowslip Orchid.

For more information on Kalbarri's wildflowers, scan QR code or go to:

kalbarri.org.au

Kneeling Hammer Orchid.

The Kalbarri Hammer Orchid is closely related to the Glossy-leafed Hammer Orchid (Drakaea elastica) and is distinguished by its dull, dark green, rather than shiny, light leaf green and uniformly coloured labellum with a short-haired upper appendage. It grows

The main wildflower season in Kalbarri is between early July and mid-November with the peak wildflower season occurring in August and September (weather dependent).

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Keep an eye out for these beauties in Kalbarri!

Common Spider Orchid

Noble Spider Orchid

Daddy Long Legs Spider Orchid

Crimson Spider Orchid

Red Beaks Orchid

Pink Fairy Orchid

Curlylocks Orchid

Kalbam Cowslip Orchid

Northern Coastal Donkey Orchid

Sedge Loving Donkey Orchid

Vanilla Orchid

Hairy-Stemmed Snail Orchid

Green Veined Shell Orchid

Blue Fairy Orchid

Shirt Orchid

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We have developed a range of beer in our onsite craft brewery that is suited to our climate here in Kalbarri WA. The range offers refreshing flavours with smooth undertones for those who love or are new to craft beer. Try our beer paddles with your choice of four flavours. Our beverage menu has a variety of alcoholic and non-alcoholic options to cater for everyone. Our cans are also available to purchase onsite.

Finlay’s Kalbarri is an open-air restaurant located in the heart of Kalbarri WA. We invite you to enjoy a meal using fresh ingredients including local seafood, beers from our in-house craft brewery and our quirky atmosphere where we enjoy live music every Sunday afternoon. Everyone is welcome, including kids and fur babies!

A unique Australian outdoor seafood restaurant and award winning brewery

13 Magee Cr, Kalbarri • (08) 9937 1253 • finlayskalbarri.com.au Please head to our website for further info and bookings.

ART FROM THE

Think of an art gallery and immediately our minds turn to those buildings in towns and cities around the country crammed full of oil paintings and watercolours, with which we are all familiar. Few people, however, realise that some of Australia's greatest works of art are not actually hanging in galleries but are resting on stone in remote, isolated bushland, far away from any form of modern civilisation.

nlike the city display centres that offer a high degree of protection and preservation of their exhibits, Australia's Aboriginal rock art galleries lie mostly open to the elements. Exposed to the destructive effects of sun, wind, rain, heat, cold, and in some places modern industry, these priceless artistic pieces are slowly but surely disappearing — literally melting back into the landscape. Not only are some of these works totally unique in their formats and styles, it seems (if recent findings from dating studies taking place in the Top End of Australia are correct) some of this ancient artwork could, in fact, prove to be the oldest of all known works to be found anywhere in the world. Until not long

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DREAMTIME s ' g in t i r The W the Wall! on

BY COLIN KERR

Garrimalam - the Rainbow Serpent, Nganalam art site, Keep River National Park, NT.

ago, the oldest reliably dated rock art uncovered are some 32,000-year-old cave paintings in France. More recently, rock engravings in Australia have been dated at a minimum of around 40,000 to 50,000 years. It would seem from this, that here in Australia we therefore have in our own backyard, evidence of human life and, in particular for those interested in art, what must now represent the oldest and arguably the most significant 'art galleries' anywhere in the world. Strictly speaking, when we talk of Aboriginal rock art, we should, in fact, try to disassociate our modern (Western) perception of 'art' from it altogether.

Whilst it certainly involved a level of artistic skill with presentation and technique, authorities are doubtful that any of it was developed as a purely artistic creation. Much of this ancient 'art' was, it seems, set down on stone as a means of recording events, places, religions and dreamtime beliefs, spirits and ancestral beings, habits, rituals and ceremonies with each symbol, drawing or figure having an underlying story or meaning. Some more recent Aboriginal rock art seen around the country depicts the coming of Europeans with examples of old sailing luggers (Macassan, Dutch or French), men with hats and rifles, and explorers or drovers riding on horseback.

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Limited to naturally occurring materials available from the land, the techniques used in rock art seems, however, to be restricted to just two main types — petroglyphs and pictographs. Petroglyphs (engravings or etchings), often found on hill sides or rocky outcrops, were made by scratching, pecking, pounding, or abrading a rock surface — thus, in fact, chipping out pieces of the rock itself. This painstaking work was mostly carried out using hard, sharpened rocks like chisels or stone axes. It is generally believed that engravings found at many sites around Australia are much older than paintings (pictographs) as they withstand the erosive forces of nature much better. The other main form of rock art, pictographs, includes drawings and stencils where an actual pigment is added to the rock surface. This form of art is most often found in caves, under rocky over-hangs, or on cliff walls sheltered from the main prevailing weather. Stencils were often made by blowing (or spitting) the ground-up pigments (ochre, clay and oxides) out of the mouth onto a hand, foot, or other objects pressed close against the rock surface.

Petroglyph at Red Rock, Indee Station WA.

Petroglyph at Wanna Munna, near Newman WA.

In most rock paintings the pigments are crushed on a flat stone and mixed with water (or sometimes with blood or animal fats). The paint mixture is then applied by brushes made from human hair, fibrous strips of bark, pandanus palm or other tree roots, feathers, or simply on their fingers. In a brief look at art sites around the country, the different styles, shapes, figures and symbols found in different regions is quite noticeable, reflecting the completely separate and diverse lifestyles led by Aboriginal tribes or communities across the land. In Central Australia at Roma Gorge in the West Macdonnell Ranges, and also south

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Petroglyphs at Punda Rock Art Site, near Newman WA.

Pictograph near Kununurra, WA.

Wandjina figures near King Edward River, Kimberley WA.

Pictograph near Mutawintji Gorge (near Broken Hill NSW.

of Alice Springs at Ewaninga, ancient rock engravings (or etchings) depict animals, animal tracks (kangaroos, emu and others) and hunting implements. In addition, there are a large number of other abstract circles, wavy lines and symbols — some of which, it is felt, refer to nearby water and the sun, but the meaning of others, because they predate any recent generations of Aboriginal people, has, unfortunately, been lost in time — the knowledge literally 'died with the old folk'. In some areas the art is regarded by Aboriginal people as the work of ancestral heroes, such as the striking 'Wandjina' figures found in the Kimberley dating well back into the Dreamtime. The Wandjina are portrayed as stylised human figures, faces with a head, halo, eyes, a nose, but no mouth. They now guard tribal spirits, especially around Aboriginal burial sites. Successive generations would record their association with the spirits by repainting them on the rock (done by male members of each generation). They would often paint in 'the gallery' directly over older paintings. Pigment build-up at various sites has been found to measure as much as 7mm thick (25 or more layers) on the gallery walls.

Hand stencils, one of the most common forms of rock art it seems, have various meanings depending on where they are found. In some areas they are like an individual signature of the artist. Elsewhere it has the meaning of a calling card, and in some places it is thought to have been used to indicate the number of people who live in the area. One of the most extensive galleries containing this style of art is found at Carnarvon Gorge in Queensland.

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Split Rock Art Gallery, Laura, Cape York Qld. Aboriginal art along the Sandstone Walk at Ubirr, Kakadu National Park NT.

Do not lean on the rock surfaces, stay behind any barriers or fences that have been erected, and stick to any marked trails

The Ship at Walga Rock Art Site near Cue WA. Aboriginal rock engravings at Wanna Munna, near Newman WA. Rock art site in Deep Gorge, Burrup Peninsula, Dampier WA.

Art at Emily Gap, East MacDonnell National Park, Central Australia NT.

Ubirr, Kakadu National Park NT.

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At what are probably the most wellknown Aboriginal art sites in Australia — Ubirr and Nourlangie in Kakadu National Park, home to the well-known 'x-ray' style paintings, it is also easy to see how the galleries have been used as a moving, or updated, record. The old faded works by many generations form the background for new figures and symbols superimposed in more recent times over the top. In some areas, works that have been seen to be important have been repainted or touched up to preserve their message and presence. Such work was traditionally carried out by tribal elders who knew their meaning.

Where else to find rock art? In the Kimberley, one form of rock art you may come across is interesting dancing stick figures featured with girdles and bracelets, known by some as Bradshaw figures (named after the first European to discover them, Joseph Bradshaw). I discovered, anecdotally, that these

early prehistoric paintings, sometimes believed to be painted by spirit people, are, in some instances, considered of little cultural value to current Aboriginal generations in the area. The area around Laura in North Queensland is home to the 'Quinkins', evil spirits that are believed to live in the local sandstone escarpments. Apart from the well-known split rock and Guguyalangi galleries, this area has over 1,000 recorded sites containing a wide diversity of styles, messages and purposes. One notable site depicts yam spirits. 'Sorcery' figures, or devil figures, are another art figure found commonly across the Top End of Australia. The Pilbara region of WA on the other hand, has a lot less in the way of paintings because of the lack of many suitable sandstone rock caves and overhangs but, has what is probably the most intensive rock engraving sites to be found anywhere in the world. Many thousands of individual pieces of art can be found

A visitor photographing Aboriginal rock engravings at Wanna Munna, near Newman WA.

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in this region. The rough, dark granite and dolerite rocks found throughout the Hamersley Ranges, rocky outcrops in the adjacent desert regions, the Burrup Peninsular and even on offshore islands, have a shallow coating of iron oxide (caused by weathering over a long period) which Aboriginal people in the area found could be chipped away to reveal a lightcoloured under-surface. By this method, an engraving with a strong colour contrast was created. Throughout Australia there are over 100,000 rock art sites of significance so far recorded — many of which are in isolated areas where access is extremely difficult. For those of us who are interested in viewing some of our nation's finest works, fortunately there are still a sizeable

make sure any children in your party understand the significance of the area and curb their natural desire to run around and climb over everything in sight.

number of sites within easy reach of travellers, with some areas developed for visitors much more than others. In fact, quite a few of our National Parks and Reserves around the country provide good opportunities to walk on marked trails through the bush to some really first-class rock art sites. In some places like Kakadu (NT), Laura (Qld), Mutawintji (NSW) and Arnhem Land (home of some of Australia’s most extensive art sites), Aboriginal custodians of the sites, or local rangers, conduct guided walks which provide a valuable insight into the art, the various styles to be found and the meanings being conveyed. When the urge next hits you to visit an 'Art Gallery', perhaps you'd better go prepared for more than just an hour or two in the city — get out in more remote parts and see some of Australia's oldest works. When you arrive at a site take your time to sit and experience the ambience of the gallery and surrounding area. Try to imagine the scene, hundreds, even thousands of years ago, when

Kuniya Walk, Uluru, Central Australia.

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generations of Aboriginal people sat in this same spot creating their stories on the rocks and relaying to those around them their Dreamtime tales, legends and beliefs. Don't leave your visit for too long however — it might soon be too late ... and remember, when it's gone, it's gone forever! When visiting either a well-developed site in a national park, or perhaps a little-known area you've found hidden away somewhere in the bush, remember: Rock art sites are extremely vulnerable to damage, and most are already in the process of slow deterioration. It is important not to touch the art work or to stir up dirt or dust around them. It is believed highly likely that there are still many art sites, particularly in remote places, which have not been recorded. If you find a site which may fall into

this category, report it to the nearest Aboriginal authority and otherwise try to keep it quiet. The fewer people that know about it (especially before opportunity is given to provide adequate protection, signage, etc.) then the better chance of long term preservation it has. Additionally, as if anyone needs reminding — all sites are protected by law and it is illegal to disturb, damage, destroy, deface or desecrate any Aboriginal site or object, with heavy fines applying. It is also illegal to remove or collect any Aboriginal objects from sites. Leave things exactly as you find them and no trace of your visit behind you … and of course, one of the last things any of us want is for those areas to be closed off to visitors simply because some unthinking clowns do the wrong thing at these sites!

Aboriginal rock engravings on Red Rock at Indee Station WA.

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When the Best Laid Plans go Awry

BY DUNCAN WILSON

Know the cardinal rules of 4W driving for a fighting chance of a smooth sailing trip — and be prepared for the worst when bad luck rears its ugly head.

e all plan our trips, and we all prepare our vehicles, some in more detail than others. But we all know that things can and do go wrong. Some are just bad luck and totally out of our control, some plain stupid, and some by breaking cardinal rules. I’m guilty of them all and my wife says I pay for my mechanic and auto electrician’s holidays each year with the things that need fixing after big trips. To be fair though I do drive a 1999 75 series Toyota LandCruiser Troop Carrier, so not a new car by any means. And I do tend to go where the worst corrugations can be found or totally off grid to get to our destination. So, anything can happen and does happen. As said, I drive a Troopy, and what do Troopys have but a flat windscreen, with no give. Three years in a row I’ve needed a new screen. A trip into the Kimberley and we hadn’t got to Newman when 'ping' a rock is thrown up from a road train and a nice star appeared in front of my eyes. Heading out on the Great Central Road, we’d just hit the bitumen heading into Warburton and the first vehicle we'd passed and 'ping' off we go again, this time a 100mm crack behind my rear vision mirror. All unavoidable and not my fault but annoying all the less.

We were heading up the Cable Haul Road heading to the Connie Sue on our way to the Simpson Desert, and the track was a bit closed in in places. Driving through soft vegetation normally isn’t an issue, right? Well, I drove through what I thought was soft marble gum foliage when I heard an almighty bang. Looking out of my passenger side window, my wing mirror was no more, bugger. Looking back out of my windscreen, there was a crack starting on the bottom left of my screen and growing by the kilometre. Turns out I’d hit a snapped-off branch and the soft vegetation was what was growing around the stump. I nursed this growing crack using gaffer tape in and out as far as Oodnadatta before heading back into Coober Pedy for a new screen. Either way our plans once reaching Oodnadatta were definitely changed and it was well into the night before we caught up with our travelling companions again.

Now the next falls into the Sod’s Law category or some may say plain stupid.

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$500 later and the damaged windscreen is replaced in Coober Pedy.

could be a serious possibility, so I decided to turn around. I heard the obvious telltale sound immediately, I’d managed to find an old fence, and the wire was wrapping itself around my drive train. I stopped immediately to discover that barbed wire was wrapped tightly around my front wheel assembly and drive shaft.

Mechanical issues often come about unexpectedly and can happen at any time no matter who you are or what you drive or where you are. We were on our second day in the Simpson Desert heading to the Hay River Track and we’d stopped for lunch and I noticed all this oil around my rear driver’s side wheel coming out of the hub assembly. I suspected that my bearing was the root cause of the problem. Not knowing the seriousness of the problem, we turned around and headed back into Birdsville two day's drive away. Fortunately, the problem was easily and rather inexpensively repaired as soon as we got back into Birdsville, but we had now lost a number of days travel time, had an unexpected repair bill and a whole lot of expended fuel that needed to be replaced.

Fortunately, I had a pair of side cutters so while I cut, my mate pulled. In the end we had to remove the wheel to get at the mess I’d created. On close inspection it looked like no damage had been done. I was so annoyed with myself I forgot to take any photos.

Rear bearings being repaired in Birdsville.

Sticking to the mechanical side of things and this one may have been manifested by a sheer act of stupidity. We were at one of the well-known stations off the Gibb River Road and on our way back from looking at a very nice gorge I decided to follow a fence line to see where it went. Well, my mate said, “You know what they said, only stick to the main tracks.” “What can go wrong?” I said. His words would come back to haunt me about 10 minutes later. The track started to deteriorate to the point where I thought that tyre damage

A few days later we were coming back from Wyndham, and I said to my old mate, “Gee the road's a bit rough today,” and thought no more of it. That afternoon entering Mirima NP I heard a horrible grinding sound coming from my front wheel area, and yes it was the same wheel. Back in Kununurra I was able to get the car looked at and was told that I’m lucky the whole wheel assembly hadn’t parted company with the car. I ended up having to have a complete wheel assembly including bearings and free wheel hub replaced. Lucky it had happened in town and not when I was hurtling along at 100 kilometres an hour or so. Consequence was obviously the expense of the repair, an extra night in Kununurra, and another delay in our itinerary. Was this just bad luck, poor mechanical check-up before departure, or as a result of my previous stupidity? You be the judge. Readers may have read in Western 4W Driver #125 Autumn 2023, that I wrote about my August 2022 trip along the Oombulgurri Track. What I didn’t mention was the mechanical issues I started to get after we had left our King George Falls camp. Stopping for morning tea I noticed that again I had oil coming out of my rear hub assembly just like on the previous Simpson trip as mentioned

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A number of years ago on our way back from an expedition into the Great Sandy Desert we were heading west along the Gunbarrel Highway. My old mate and I were tailend Charlie and one of our convoy vehicles had stopped at the side of the road to allow the driver to answer a call of nature. He would now become tail-end Charlie. Problem was we turned south before he caught up and my mate who was Oil sprayed back wheel with the axle spine removed and the hub hole covered. driving at this stage failed to practice convoy procedure and wait for before. I grabbed a 4” adjustable crescent our companion to catch-up. I had been spanner to nip up the small hub assembly snoozing so was unaware of what had nuts and one snapped off. “Bugger,” transpired until we got to camp, and the I said. Our guide, Colin Morgan, just question was asked where our mate was. happened to be a mechanic by trade and Long and the short of it all is he drove said not to worry, we can fix that. Well, all the way into Wiluna and camped the by the time we got to Ellenbrae Station night catching up with us the next day in a few days later and tried to fix my little Laverton as mad as all hell. Fortunately, problem we managed to snap off three he had phoned his mum who then was more nuts. I was able to bore out two of able to relay his message via sat phone the bolts and replace one of the bolts to her husband who was also part of but when trying to draw out one of the our group. Cardinal rule broken with no bolts via the hole I’d bored in it my tool serious consequences — but there could snapped off in the hole. In the end we easily have been! could only get three nuts out of six done The next is me and all me. We had up. Colin said not to worry, it was only a decided to have a look at Punda Spring short drive to Wyndham where he lives, and following the track in we came to a and we’d fix it properly back at his place. large waterhole about 100 metres long Next day on the last jump-up before seemingly blocking the track forward. Home Valley Station it was suddenly like While we considered our options another I was accelerating in neutral. Stopping vehicle arrived, and we discussed options immediately, I discovered that my entire with the occupants. The chap in the other axle spline was hanging out from the side vehicle said he’d fly his drone over the of the car. We took the axle out, covered body of water to see how deep it was. over the hole in the hub assembly with a He said that the water was crystal clear rag and gaffer tape, and I drove in 4WD and that the bottom looked to be only high range so as to permit me to drive in about 450mm or so deep. So, whether 2WD. Back in Wyndham Colin soon had it was a sudden rush of blood, bravado, my little problem fixed. lack of forethought or whatever, I can say Breaking the cardinal rules of 4W driving in hindsight that it was a case of plain can have many consequences, some stupidity. I decided to drive it. Fortunately, it had a firm bottom, something the potentially fatal.

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drone couldn’t tell, and as I drove further in, the deeper the water became and soon it was over the bonnet. Fortunately, the water was crystal clear, and I could easily see the deep bits. My old mate said we had water coming in and by the time we reached the other side and I could breathe again, we had only got about a small cupful of water inside both sides of the car. The consequences could have stopped us there and then and ruined the rest of the holiday. The annoying thing was that the other vehicle caught up to us and had found a track around this body of water. What hadn’t I done? Pretty simple really, I hadn’t assessed the risk, hadn’t walked the entire length of the body of water to assess its depth and firmness of the bottom. “Bloody idiot,” I hear you say!

The body of water I decided to drive.

Now this is something that I never do. I always leave my shoes in the car and place my thongs in my swag. Why I didn’t this time I have no idea. At about 5am I heard a weird sound outside my swag near my head. I opened the head flap and there as bold as brass is a young dingo munching on my other sandal. Well, I yelled at it and shone my torch in its eyes, all to no avail, until I threw my Gympie hammer that was within arm’s reach and struck the dingo in the chest. At this stage it dropped the sandal and sauntered off. Next morning, I found the first sandal it had taken but not my sandshoes. I hope it got indigestion. Needless to say, I was the butt of a few dingo jokes for the next few days.

The next and final was on the Birdsville Track. We had made camp for the night and my mate and I had retired to our swags, and our travelling companions to their roof top tent. Sometime between midnight and dawn I crawled out of my snug swag to answer a call of nature and looking down I noticed that a sandshoe was missing and also one of my trekking sandals. Bugger and double bugger, a bloody dingo had nicked my shoes. Cardinal rule broken — don’t leave your footwear where dingoes can pinch them.

So, as I said from the on-set things can and do go wrong, some with little to no consequence, but some can and do have a more serious consequence. Some are avoidable especially those that with a bit more forethought and risk assessment could be easily avoided, but some just happen. All we can do is plan for these unavoidable eventualities in our preplanning, the spares we carry, having the ability to be flexible with our travel plans, and having the finances to be able to cope when things don’t go to plan.

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I’m Gonna Put Some 35s On That It’s the old Imperial vs Metric game, but applied to tyre size, not spanner size, and it’s an indicator of how the world has turned to shit. Ever since Holden and Ford departed this mortal coil and 2WD utes disappeared, all the young things migrated to 4WDs, and I’m telling you, the 4WD world as I knew it disappeared.

BY DAVID WILSON

ow the automakers have a new breed of 4WD buyer, one who has zero intention of going off-road, a guy who wants their version of cool, but only for the street. If you watch trophy-truck racing you’ll see the silhouette that the young-things desire, gargantuan tyres stuffed under guards and with so much poke, not to mention new-found height, that their fourbie casts a shadow on anything smaller than a bus! So, is Baja the breeding ground of a competent 4WD for the street? Hell no. It’s the antithesis of what’s required, not only to be legal, but to make progress down any road, or trail, because a 4WD is for 4W driving, not mall-crawling! Facebook is always right, right?

Once upon a time young blokes used to covet these go-fast utes with lairy paint, but no more, they want something bigger.

Likely the most common observation on all the vehicle forums are the ones centred on tyre size, bigger being supposedly better. “Mate that looks fully sick, I want 35s on my ute too”. Yada-yada, and for those unfamiliar with

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with a 265/65R17 or 265/60R18 tyre size, of around 775-785mm diameter. At that size, the vehicle becomes the great allrounder, not perfect, but pretty good at most of the things its maker intended. That size by-the-way is a metric one and an Imperial equivalent would be called a 30.5”. Huh? Isuzu in the UK sell this, the AT35, AKA Arctic Truck 35”.

How Big Can I Go?

the USA tyre-speak that’s going on here, 35s refers to wheel/tyre inches diameter.

That question should be reframed to read more like, what’s legal and what’s desirable?

There’s a bunch of Facebook opportunists who thrive off the misery of gullible vehicle owners. They’ll build a vehicle with a ridiculous setup (with 35s) and reel in the innocents who want the same, taking thousands off them in the process and making their vehicle illegal and dangerous.

Right around this country last time I looked, our Founding Fathers permitted a 50mm increase in diameter, and that is pretty generous when applied to most “4WDs” sold in this country, because around that size their engineering becomes affected.

Here’s why you should avoid it like the plague.

Optimum Size When a vehicle maker designs a car, it’s got to be driveable. They’ll design an engine with around 150kW/500Nm, put a gearbox behind it that’ll take it to a maximum speed of around 160 kilometres per hour, put brakes on it that’ll stop it in a reasonable distance and fit a suspension set-up that will allow it to go around corners confidently, yet allow, as it’s a 4WD, a modicum of off-road ability. To achieve all of this, most mediumlarge 4WDs sold in this country are sold

Your heart might be telling you that you want 33s or 35s, but your head really wants 32s.

A 50mm increase now makes the tyre size in American-speak a 33”, and when reading the sidewall scratchings, it’ll likely call itself an LT285/70R17 or an LT285/65R18. With a now 830mm diameter you’re borderline on legal/illegal.

Replacing The Stock Rubber Is Good Right? Absolutely. I’ve written a couple of times before in these pages that stock rubber is junk, unless you’re just swanning around the burbs. Next-Gen Ranger Wildtrak run these 255/65R18 as stock rubber.

Standard OEM passenger car tyres (because 90% of 4WD owners have

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Toyo’s new Open Country AT3 is the great allrounder and tough as old boots!

no intention of going bush) meet the urban criteria of a comfy ride, low rolling resistance (for fuel efficiency), a uniform tread pattern to keep it quiet and reasonable grip on a bitumen road. If you’re one of the ten-percenters, you’ll want a tyre with more strength, both in terms of carrying capacity and puncture resilience, along with a tread pattern better suited to constantly changing road surfaces. An LT (Light-Truck) A/T (All/ Terrain) is the go, especially one with a significant boost to its LI (Load Index), but not one stupidly big.

To make this show truck work, it required a massive lift, and what might be legal in the good ol’ USA won’t fly here in Australia.

That extra weight is not only affecting your GVM, but it’s also applying loads your IFS (Independent Front Suspension) was never designed for, prematurely wearing out bushes, ball joints, control arms and their mounts, wheel bearings, steering arms and racks, constant-velocity joints and breaking differentials.

I Want 35s (or 33s) No you don’t. They Won’t Fit. Getting a set of 35s (or even a set of 33s) under the guards of a typical Japanese ute or wagon, might require some serious chop-chop work with an angle grinder, along with a big suspension lift and a likely body lift kit, to get some clearance. That’s before we start talking tyre poke, and in this country those tyres have to stay inside the guards, meaning a new set of fender flares.

This Thing Called Mass A 35” or 33” adds more mass, because that wheel /tyre assembly might now be weighing nearly double the design unsprung mass of 25-27kg.

Little differentials don’t like big wheels and eventually they go bang!

That mass also translates to on-road mayhem. The extra diameter multiplies the torque-rolling effect making your braking system less likely to stop in an acceptable distance.

This Thing Called Gearing It’ll be buggered. That extra diameter wreaks havoc on a vehicle’s gearing, making it a pig around town (slower to accelerate), a pig on the highway (when overtaking) and if you dared tow with it, expect a cooked transmission in

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the hills. Speaking of hills and thinking off-road, your taller 4WD will now have compromised the LOW range advantage of slower descents. Did I also mention what happens to your fuel efficiency? You’ll have none.

Smarts I know, I’m sounding like a wowser and that’s likely giving away my age, but after a lifetime of mucking around with 4WDs you arrive at a package that just works, anymore and you’re just playing with it! Your package I mean. My favourite tyre size used to be a LT235/85R16. That narrow profile

For most of us and running a typical Japanese ute or wagon, this is the right size.

promoted a lengthy off-road footprint, but today is unfashionably skinny. Next best is an LT265/70R17, and if you must, it’s 32 inches.

Big tyres = compromised gearing in the hills.

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From the Road to the Rock BY BRUCE HARWOOD

Don’t keep your 4x4 a captive to the confinements of the road. Spread its wings and build your confidence by starting with the basics of off-roading.

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t’s a nice sunny day and you have just finished shining up your pride and joy — your new 4x4 is taking prime position in the driveway. It’s been well used taking the kids to school, sitting proud in the traffic on your run to work and running the garden prunings to the tip on the weekend, towing the trailer. Not to mention being able to sit high and proud on the bank at the local Auskick.

KNOW YOUR 4WD

Deep inside you know that is not what you really want for your new adventure machine. Itching to get some mud in your treads and dust on your paint work, you have a feeling of anxiety, unanswered questions to that little voice in your head. Well, don’t worry you are not alone. At some point we have all had those questions pop into our heads.

• Do you have auto or manual drive hubs, how are they engaged?

Here are some tips to help you on your way to adventure with your new 4x4. We’ll start with the very basics and progress from there:

Grab a cuppa, sit down, run through your vehicle manual and familiarise yourself with your 4WD to give you confidence to achieve the best performance on different terrain and surfaces. • How to select 4x4 High Range • Changing from High Range to Low Range 4x4

• Should you use the manufacturer traction aids, how do they engage? Many 4WDs have different ways to achieve the same setup.

GOLDEN RULE to remember

DO NOT have 4x4 . engaged on bitumen

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• Sit in your vehicle and work out exactly where your wheels are running in relation to bullbar or bonnet. • Be aware of your approach angle. The line from your front wheel to most forward underneath part. This will help determine if you drive out of a ditch or need some rock packing. • Check your departure angle. The line from rear wheels to the furthest underneath part. This is often the tow hitch and can easily be removed to increase the angle, making it easier to drive through wash outs and creek beds.

TYRES & PRESSURES There are many types and brands of tyres for 4W driving on the market. For the purpose of starting out in your 4WD I would suggest a good All Terrain Tyre to suit your vehicle. A tyre specialist will be able to assist. Further to finding out how to work your 4WD you can familiarise yourself to become one with your vehicle. By that I mean to be aware of what surrounds you. • Look underneath and check the lowest hanging parts and where they are situated. This will help you decide, do you straddle a rock or run your wheels over it?

Adjusting your Tyre Pressures When you start out, your trip tyres will be fully inflated, however you should reduce pressures for different surfaces. Less air pressure will make your ride more comfortable and allows tread to mold around sharp rocks, giving you extra grip on larger rocks and muddy surfaces.

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RECOVERY EQUIPMENT Ideally travel with another vehicle and carry some basic recovery equipment. Lower even further for soft sand to increase the tread footprint. A few less P.S.I. (pounds per square inch) of air in your tyres on sand can be the difference between getting bogged and driving comfortably across the top. You will require a tyre deflator and pressure gauge with a compressor to reinflate.

The most basic and useful piece of equipment is a shovel - if you have room for one with a long handle it will reach under your vehicle more easily. Tyre deflators, tyre gauge, air compressor are all needed for adjusting pressures, essential for sand driving. For basic bush driving or a day at the beach: • Shovel

As a rough guide for tyre pressures:

• Tyre deflators

• Highway, go by manufacturer's recommendation.

• Tyre pressure gauge

• Hard gravel and corrugations: 35 psi • Soft beach sand: 18 psi

Next level – nice to have for a day at the beach, overnight camp, or more challenging driving:

This is a guide only and will vary with weight of vehicle and track surfaces.

• Rated recovery points

• Rocky creeks and tracks: 25 psi

Re-check tyres for slow leaks or valve damage from deflating.

• Air compressor

• Recovery boards • Kinetic rope / snatch strap • Rated bow or soft Shackles

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DRIVING TECHNIQUES Soft Sand Driving: • Lower tyre pressure to 18 psi • Use low range 4WD • Turn off traction control • Take off smoothly • Maintain momentum • Roll to stop – avoid heavy braking • If wheels bog in, STOP and clear sand, use recovery boards if you have them. • When driving on beach be aware of tide times — stay high and dry! Rocky Tracks: • Start in high range 4WD • Slow down for rougher sections • For rough rocky sections deflate tyres to 25 psi, drive slow in low range second gear • Straddle water washouts if possible — position wheels to keep vehicle as level as possible. Use someone to spot and direct if needed. • Drive to your experience. • In general use lower gearing to avoid slipping clutch. After a day or a weekend in the bush negotiating the challenges of 4W driving, you should be feeling a sense of achievement as you tick off the first-time challenges, it is time to start planning your next trip.

Still looking to gain some experience? Come along and join us at Epic 4WD TagAlong Tours for some fun and adventure. We specialise in supporting new 4W drivers, sharing equipment and adventure experiences.

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upcoming events GASCOYNE JUNCTION & THE UPPER GASCOYNE June 3 23 25

Outback Car Trek Gascoyne Junction Stargazing: Supper Under the Stars Gascoyne Junction Gascoyne Junction Fun Run Gascoyne Junction

August 12 24-26

Gascoyne Rocks! Stargazing Junction Races

Gascoyne Junction Gascoyne Junction

September 9 Gascoyne Food Festival 23 Australia's Biggest BBQ 29-2 Oct Landor Races

Gascoyne Junction Mount Augustus Landor

October 8-9

Gascoyne Junction

Kennedy Range Campdraft

FOR MORE INFORMATION www.uppergascoyne.wa.gov.au/events

PRODUCT REVIEW by Michael Collins

SPACE SAVERS Saving on space can be a perpetual challenge, faced each time one embarks on a trip. Campaq have come up with an Aussie product to streamline packing and condense the load while on the road.

recently had the pleasure of meeting the creators of Campaq, Therese and Andrew, at the Adelaide Caravan Show, and I must say I was very impressed with not only their enthusiasm but their innovative storage solution as well. Therese and Andrew came up with the idea after a camping trip to Uluru, motivated by their frustration of continually having to pull out everything from a duffel bag just to find one item. They have since turned that frustration into an ingenious storage solution that is perfect for anyone who enjoys the great outdoors. The bags themselves are well-made and robust, made from high-quality material including sturdy zippers. Over the Easter weekend I tried out two of their bags on our boat, the Large Black Bag and the Shower Bag. Have to say, I was thoroughly impressed with their durability and functionality. The large bag was perfect for our clothes and towels for the few nights away. Everything was so easy to see and get to thanks to the bags’ transparency, and the shower bag was a huge hit with the wife who crammed it full of her excessive stuff — um I mean the essential toiletries that she needed

for the weekend! I often wonder why the ladies need so much ‘essential’ stuff, we were only away for three nights and my toothbrush wasn’t even allowed in the Shower Bag either! The Campaq bags actually do keep your essentials and clothes well organised. I guess that shouldn’t be a surprise because that’s what Therese and Andrew designed in the first place. But nonetheless, the bags certainly kept the forward V berth clear from clutter (my stuff!) and more importantly kept the wife happy! These bags are incredibly versatile and handy in the caravan, camper trailer or, like me, on the boat — and when you're not using them, the bags pack down flat for easy storage. Perhaps the best thing about Campaq is the people behind it. Therese and Andrew are a lovely couple from Brisbane, and they clearly have a passion for what they do. It was a pleasure to meet them and hear the story behind their idea. They have brought great Aussie ingenuity to the world of storage systems, and I am sure that they will continue to innovate and improve their product in the years to come.

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BUSH MECHANICS with GEOFF LEWIS

Getting your bearings Fencing wire has many uses and is a must for anyone travelling to the remote regions of Western Australia and beyond. Though many of us don’t like to admit it, we can all become a bit lost at times and getting pointed in the right direction can be a big help.

his has happened to me several times and I have developed some useful ways of being able to get your bearings by using very little. Using the sun is a great way of figuring out which way is east and west (sun rises in the east and sets in the west), but how do you find out where north and south is? Well there are many methods, but did you know you can use your 4x4 to make a compass that actually works. All you need is a piece of fencing wire, string (cotton or fishing line) and some electrical wire. Simply get a 50mm-long (or 5cm) piece of electrical wire and coil it around the

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length of the fencing wire of a similar length. Then get the two strip ends of the electrical wire and place one on the battery terminals under the bonnet of your car. Hold one end on the negative terminal and quickly tap the second end in quick succession on the positive terminal. Remove the wires from the battery, uncoil the electrical wire from the fencing wire, then tie the length of cotton or fishing line to the middle of the length of fencing wire so that the wire balances perpendicularly to the piece of string when held from the loose end. Now walk away from your car and find a place where there is no wind, dangle the piece of fencing wire from the loose end of your string and wait. You will notice it will spin and wiggle and it will, in time, align itself in one direction north-south. How is this possible? Well, by allowing a small electrical current to pass through

the fencing wire you have turned it into a magnet and now it will align itself with magnetic north. This might just give the hint to get you out of trouble and point you in the right direction.

Scan QR code to watch Geoff's video on how to make your own compass.

GENUINE OUTBACK HOSPITALITY YOU DESERVE IT

Plan a stay at the grand old Queen of the Murchison Guest House and soak in the history of Cue. Admire the preserved buildings, fossick for gold, photograph amazing sunsets. Owner Joyce Penny has created a fresh and homely environment for travellers and workers.

Address: 53 Austin St, Cue 6640 | T: (08) 9963 1625

E: info@queenofthemurchison.com.au | W: www.queenofthemurchison.com.au

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As far as modern-day explorers go, Alan McCall is the real deal. While some get a thrill from jumping out of planes or driving race cars, like many of our readers and writers, Alan gets his kicks from chasing the unknown — not knowing what discovery lies around the corner as he follows in the footsteps of historical pioneers, while traversing the vast outback of our impressive state.

THE PEOPLE WE MEET by TORI WILSON

ALAN MCCALL

highly experienced 4W driver, historian, navigator and amateur astronomer, when speaking with Alan it’s evident he’s been on far too many expeditions to keep track of. Though, what is clear, is his trips that retrace the routes of explorer and gold prospector David Carnegie comprise some of his most memorable moments, to date. Born in 1871, Scotsman David Carnegie left an indelible legacy in Western Australia, having led one of the last great overland expeditions that helped define our state. After some early success with mining endeavours, his interest widened beyond the surroundings of Coolgardie where he’d been based during the 1890s goldrush. Carnegie wanted to discover what lay to the north, between the eastern goldfields and Halls Creek, another gold mining area in the far north of the then colony of WA. So, in 1896 he set off from Coolgardie, journeying much unchartered territory through the Gibson and Great Sandy Deserts all the way to Halls Creek, returning in 1897.

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Having asked his parents for a book on Western Australia just about every Christmas as a child, it’s only natural a book was what ignited Alan’s intense passion for uncovering past discoveries made by Carnegie. In the year 2000, while in Broome, he set to embark on a trip along the Gibb River Road, and prior to departure purchased Spinifex and Sand from Magabala Books, written by Carnegie in 1898, and that was it, said Alan. “That book changed my life.” “I thought, ‘hang on, some of these places he’s mentioning, I’ve heard about and been there’. It was so surprising and pleasing to actually read a genuine Western Australian adventure story.” Before he was even halfway through the book, Alan was already whipping out his map and planning his first great adventure. He bought a quadbike and rounded up his father and brother, John and Howard, to comprise his crew, hiring a 4WD for the journey. Equipped with copies of Carnegie’s original diaries, excerpts from Spinifex and Sand and other available literature — all overlaid on over 40 maps — together they set off to retrace the original route. Ample lessons were learnt on that first expedition for Alan (including how quickly the temperature can drop, so always be prepared with adequate clothing when out in the bush) and countless thrilling discoveries, or rediscoveries, were made. However, a few highlights to note included coming across Empress Spring, Woodhouse Lagoon area and

Alan, John and Howard by the sign they put up on the Gunbarrel Highway.

Alan climbing out of chamber at Empress Spring.

approaching headlands from a distance just as Carnegie had described. Empress Spring, first shown to Carnegie by an Aboriginal man, is an underground cave with fresh water in a small crevice down within its depths. To access the water, the team had to daisy chain it out, passing it from person to person until it finally made it to the surface. The cave was not rediscovered until 1967. As the cave is quite unique, it was with great anticipation that Alan, John and Howard arrived at the location, said Alan. “The water was just as Carnegie described.” Woodhouse Lagoon was another landmark of particular note by Carnegie. Carnegie had almost reached Mount Worsnop, named by John Forrest in 1874, and was using this as a test of his surveying skills, being significantly far enough from civilisation to warrant proper surveying to locate it. As Alan describes, just prior to reaching the mount, one of Carnegie’s men crossed a sandridge and saw a wide, beautiful freshwater lagoon, named Woodhouse Lagoon. When retracing Carnegie’s steps, Alan was excited to note the very same lagoon was almost full of water. Within a few kilometres of the lagoon, he came across Mount Allott, Mount Worsnop and Alexander Spring, all also described by Carnegie. Nothing will quite top the thrill of his first expedition but, with experience, skills only expand and knowledge deepens, so it’s fair to say Alan’s trips have only become more refined since.

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Dragon Tree Soak In 2011, Alan undertook another exemplary adventure. Planned for months in advance, with three other vehicles in tow, from Broome he went from Roebuck Plains Roadhouse (east of Broome), travelling south through Roebuck Plains to Dampier Downs Station. Eventually, Alan and the crew came to a precipice overlooking the Edgar Range before visiting the stunning and remote oasis that is Dragon Tree Soak. While McLarty Hills nearby (named by Lawrence Wells as part of the 1896 Calvert expedition), the team came across inscriptions in rock dating back to 1966 (geologist Mick Driscoll) and 1936 (Anna Plains Station head stockman Tom Grey). Later that afternoon, they uncovered something else truly special —a dreaming cave full of Aboriginal drawings, a uniquely special place and quite hidden. Alan recalls the vast size of the cave and many images, also noticing a small geologist’s drilling hole that had likely been made to determine the date of origin. With a passion for uncovering water sources, coming across two of Lawrence Well’s wells — Escape Well and Disaster Well — was another memory of note for Alan, as was visiting Shiddi and Redleap Pools (named by Carnegie after camels that had died there) at the foot of Mt Bannerman. Here, he and friend Phil Bianchi sat overlooking the vast desert before them, drawing the silhouette of the horizon.

Rock Grooves near entrance to Dreaming Cave.

Alan at Disaster Water.

Gary Junction Road to Gunbarrel Highway In 2015, Alan picked up the Carnegie baton once more. Taking off from Mount Webb (named by Carnegie), his goal was to traverse Carnegie’s route between Gary Junction Road and Gunbarrel Highway with several other members joining his crew. After asking permission from the Native Title holders, they struck a deal that included bringing along four

Overlooking the Edgar Range.

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traditional owners and six Indigenous rangers with him on his journey, who sought to learn from the trip. What was particularly fascinating for Alan about observing Aboriginal culture, was how deep their knowledge was of the area despite never having surveyed it. The knowledge of landmarks had been passed down orally through stories. In some cases, what Alan had a name for thanks to Carnegie’s documentation, the Aboriginal people could recognise and identify in their own language with an ancient title. Though it wasn’t their differences that struck him the most, but the mutual emotions shared as new discoveries were made. Upon discovering a rock hole, a vital water source, both Alan and Native Title holder Mr Bennett in the lead vehicle were ecstatic, said Alan, instantly getting on their radios and reporting back to their people. “We were both speaking in our own languages but it was obvious we were saying the same things and sharing the same excitement,” said Alan. “These rock holes were very special. One was about five metres deep. When we All the Traditional Owners with Alan.

told traditional owner Mr Newberry how deep this rock hole was he started to weep. It was obviously another longlost water hole that he’d heard from his ancestors’ stories and he was so emotional.”

Looking forward Alan speaks with excitement and passion when he recounts the details of each of his trips, and could clearly share countless more significant moments. But what excites him more than reflecting is the prospect of pushing forward. He has big plans underway, including a tree change to Coolgardie where he intends to establish his own tour company to share his knowledge of outback adventures with others. Understanding how to read the stars, navigation skills, and rich historical insights are all expected to make their way into the mix of his prospective tours. He also speaks of a book underway that will comprise all there is to know about Carnegie, to be published by Hesperian Press. What’s clear is, for Alan, adventure remains on the horizon.

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WHAT'S IN A NAME? with PHIL BIANCHI

Robert Austin’s disastrous 1854 expedition Few people would have heard of explorer and surveyor Robert Austin. In 1854 he led an epic expedition into what was at that time the little-known north-eastern interior of WA. It was an expedition dogged by disaster, with many horses dying from eating poison bushes, or because of exhaustion or thirst. They battled poor feed, salt marshes and water scarcity. Also expedition member Charles Farmer accidentally shot himself and died eight days later.

ho was Robert Austin? He was born in 1825 in England and arrived at Australind in December 1840. In 1847 he joined the Surveyor-General's Department of WA and carried out extensive fieldwork. He is primarily remembered for his 1854 exploration of WA’s Murchison and Gascoyne regions, the object of which was to discover land or minerals for use by the colony.

The actual route was Northam, Wongan Hills, Lake Brown, Mount Marshall, Mount Churchman, Lake Moore, Mount Kenneth, Mount Magnet, Mount Farmer, Sanford River, Mount Welcome, northwest to Retreat Well. They then returned to Mount Welcome and followed the Murchison River to the Geraldine Mine where the disastrous Robert Austin. expedition ended. Photo: WA Explorer Diaries Project

His expedition party consisted of 10 men and 21 horses. Sadly only four horses survived the expedition. In addition to Austin, members of the expedition party included Thomas Whitfield 2IC, James Fraser 3IC, police constables Kenneth Brown, James Guerin and Richard Buck, chainmen William Cant, John Edwards and Charles Farmer, and Aboriginal guides Narryer and Souper. Setting out from Northam on 10 July 1854, the intended route of the expedition was to travel towards Wongan Hills, Lake Moore and then northward towards the Gascoyne River.

Austin was well prepared with men, horses and equipment, but he was venturing into unknown country which threw everything at him. It wasn’t his fault his expedition was a failure from the point of view of its intended goals. It was his toughness and leadership skills however that saved the lives of most of his party, men who most probably would have perished.

To illustrate how bad the conditions were, in his report to the Surveyor General he said “… when I returned to camp at 3pm I found all the men had returned unsuccessful, and the whole of the party stripped and buried in the sand under

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the shade of their blankets thrown over a bush, and our horses standing up with their heads under their master’s blankets, too thirsty to feed.” You’d have to agree these conditions were tough and his party was lucky to survive. In 2016, while travelling with good friend Alan McCall, we visited a number of features named by Austin during this traverse. Many of the features are not trackside, but on various pastoral stations, and permission is required to visit them. Do the right thing and obtain approval. It is possible to visit many features that were named by Austin on this expedition or named after him. Places such as Austin rail siding and cemetery, Lake Austin, Mount Charles, Charles Farmer’s Grave, Mount Kenneth, Mount Vinden, Mount Magnet and Poison Rocks. One rock, which is on private property, is Tombstone Rock. This locally used name was recorded by Surveyor Goddard in 1889. In 1854 Austin referred to this rock as "the largest tombstone in the world". It’s a large round granite boulder which had split in two. According to Aboriginal legend, when the rock split, one half was reputed to have fallen on an Aboriginal man, apparently his body is still underneath it. Poison Rock was named by John Forrest in 1869. He named it after a granite patch where in 1854 Austin lost most of his

horses by poisoning. Austin reported, “Our famished horses ate the box poison plant. Many of them died, all were injured, and our subsequent movements were permanently crippled.” Hastys Grave was named after Hasty, one of Austin's horses. There was a desperate need to find feed for the horses. Although they found a patch of grass 10 miles distant, the horses, Hasty and Lightfoot were too ill to travel. Austin was forced to shoot Hasty as he was in a hopeless state of health. Hasty is referred to in Austin’s diary as ‘A well bred and spirited horse’. Mount Magnet was named by Austin in 1854 when the magnetic properties of the rocks interfered with his compass. The Aboriginal name of the hill is Warramboo. Nowadays, Mount Magnet is an important pastoral industry and mining centre. Mount Kenneth was named by Austin on 14 August 1854 after Kenneth Brown, a member of his exploration party. This interesting flat-topped feature stands out above the plain. On one of my visits here, the mount was home to hundreds of goats. They had stripped the trees and shrubs of all the foliage and bark they could reach. Thankfully the goats are no longer there. It’s a magical spot to enjoy the view and if you’re lucky, you can watch Wedge-tailed Eagles soaring the air currents.

Rocks known as Hastys Grave. Photo: Alan McCall

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View northward from Mount Kenneth.

Lake Austin is some 20km south of Cue. It was originally named Great Inland Marsh by Austin; the name was changed to Lake Austin later. This 80km long lake proved to be a significant obstacle to Austin’s northward progress. All that remains of the rail siding town of Austin, which opened in 1898, and is located on higher ground within Lake Austin, is a cemetery and earthworks of a rail platform. It’s a worthwhile visit to walk through the many graves in the cemetery. The group known as Outback Graves have identified each person buried there and have placed plaques on each of the graves. Well done Outback Graves. Extract from Austin's map. Image: WA Explorer Diaries Project

Mount Kenneth.

Austin's Mt Kenneth. Image: WA Explorer Diaries Project

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Charles Farmer’s Grave Farmer, who was a member of Austin’s exploration party, died of tetanus after a gun accident, on 27 September 1854, he was 22 years old. He had accidently shot himself on 19 September 1854, shattering his arm between the wrist and elbow. Farmer suffered eight days of agony before passing away. His grave is on Mount Farmer Pastoral Station and permission is needed to visit. Outback Graves have placed a plaque at his grave. Mounts Charles and Farmer were both named after Charles Farmer. Mount Murchison was discovered and named by Austin on 8 October 1854. It was named after Roderick Impey Murchison, a noted geologist who was then the Secretary of the Royal Geographical Society of England. Mount Narryer was named by explorer F.T. Gregory in 1858, after Narryer, a member of Austin’s expedition. Mount Narryer Homestead was named after Mount Narryer. Mount Vinden, was named by Austin in 1854 after his horse Vinden, who died in agony on 29 October 1854, from eating poison bush. When we arrived here in 2016, we found the cairn had collapsed and the rocks strewn about. Being good samaritans and wishing to preserve history, we spent a few hours rebuilding it to its former glory, including fitting a new centre pole. During his expedition Austin noted auriferous country in the area known today as the Mid-West. In his journal he said, “I should have washed for gold had water been procurable, the want of which induced me to consider how much more precious that element was than the metal it thus assists us to discover.” He also said, “… that portion of the “auriferous zone” around Mount Kenneth, Mount Magnet, and the Great Salt Marshes (now called Lake Austin) as probably one of the finest goldfields in the world”. Prophetic words indeed, the Mid-West would later

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Charles Farmer's grave.

become one of WA’s great goldmining districts. The big centres being Mount Magnet, Cue, Meekatharra, Day Dawn and Sandstone, and smaller ones being Yalgoo, Paynes Find, Fields Find, Youanmi and Nanine. Any trip through the Mid-West, regardless of the season, is rewarding. There are many goldmining ghost towns to visit. Always check out any local cemetery, as the causes of deaths tell the story of accidents and hardships suffered by prospectors and district pioneers. Because of safety concerns, visiting current mining operations is not possible. However, you only need to look at the bustling activity in towns and the big trucks delivering all manner of goods and equipment to mines, to see the importance of mining in the district.

quickly turn to mush leaving you bogged. Do your research, check with the shires, consult your maps, and get permission from pastoral station owners. It’s a spectacular area to visit. After his ill-fated 1854 expedition Austin conducted further survey expeditions for the Surveyor General in WA. In 1860 he joined his colleague and friend, Surveyor General A.C. Gregory in Queensland’s new Survey Department. Austin died in 1905 aged 79 years. More information on Austin’s expedition can be found in the book The Finest Goldfields in the World. The Austin Expedition to the Murchison in 1854, from Hesperian Press.

Murchison wildflowers.

In spring the Mid-West provides a special treat. After rains, it bursts into a profusion of flowering trees, shrubs and in particular, everlastings. Vistas of everlastings as far as the eye can see are a special treat. A word of caution though, if heavy rains have fallen, side tracks Murchison wildflowers.

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Accepting the unavoidable transplant ‘I suggest you consider a heart transplant, sextuple bypass and six new valves. And while we’re at it fit a new pacemaker as well’, he said.

down. ‘Bring her in’, they said.

Hmm, thinking it through, heart problems, especially serious ones, out there could mean they’d be bringing back a body or if not economic, leave it out there. ‘When can you do it?’ I asked. ‘It will take a week’ he said. ‘No worries, book me in and take as long as you like’, I replied.

On the due date the ‘Old Girl’ was left in the safe hands of UFI. I got a call later in the day saying the old girl had been on the dyno, with the results saying power was down, fuel pump was ‘tired’ and a replacement/refurbishment was recommended. In addition he said the injectors needed replacing and so did the injector lines, these are the ones between the fuel pump and the engine cylinders. They also said the previously fitted, ten-year-old chip (pacemaker as I called it) had failed. Gulping a deep breath I wondered if the sale of one of my kidneys would be enough to cover the bill. I was then told the estimated cost, phew only one kidney. With some trepidation, ‘go for it,’ I said.

How did the impending disaster come about? While visiting the 4WD Show last year, I yarned with the lads from United Fuel Injection and told them my 100 series 24 valve 1HD-FTE turbo diesel had never had the fuel pump, injectors or fuel pipes serviced or replaced. I added that it had lost a bit of power but also seemed to have idling issues, with revs going up and

Why do injector fuel lines need changing, you are probably asking? Toyota recommends at 150,000 kilometres for both the injectors and injector lines. The reason being that corrosion of the pipes, and very high fuel pressures coupled with often poor fuel quality or contaminated fuel, could cause failure. Australia’s diesel quality is of a lower standard than

ow this is pretty serious was my initial thought. ‘Will I be able to do a desert trip before committing to the work?’ I queried. ‘Knowing where you go, I wouldn’t go beyond Greenmount Hill’, he responded.

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THE THINGS YOU SEE! with (TRUTHFUL) PHIL BIANCHI Europe and many other countries. Also in my case, due to remote desert travel, I’ve often had to get fuel from 44 gallon drums, hence more risk. UFI sent through a few photos showing the work in progress. In one photo it showed the fuel pump had been removed. I could not believe how much grunge had built up under it, it was almost baked on. The crud was there by the kilo. What was the outcome of the upgrades to my 1HD-FTE? On arrival at UFI, the dyno said it had 122kW of power at 3600rpm and 361Nm of torque at 1400rpm. Once the work was done, the dyno showed she had 151kW at 3400rpm and 430Nm anywhere from 1400 to 3200rpm, all set against a 4000rpm redline. Now I’ve got more power and torque over a greater rev range together with improved overall drivability. She’s a real stump-puller and I have absolutely no complaints. While I dramatised that UFI’s pricing was very expensive; ultimately it is not. The price charged was under I what I expected. I was, as Truthful Phil does, adding humour to this article. UFI are highly regarded in the industry, their prices are competitive and their

work is top notch and reliable. All my diesel 4WDs, since 1991, had been through UFI’s workshops and I’ll continue to go there. The last time this Cruiser saw UFI was ten years ago, and that was for a chip and Taipan exhaust. It however, had not had any work done on the fuel system since it was new 16 years ago and it had now done 240,000km when I turned it over to them. In my opinion UFI’s pricing and quality workmanship is priceless, diesel-powered 4W driving. Folks, diesel motor repairs aren’t cheap. For me, it’s not only about the price, it’s to do with the trust, quality and reliably, of the parts supplied and labour. Anyone owning a diesel engined 4WD should be prepared for such prices, it’s the cost of 4W driving. If you can’t afford to service your diesel properly then I strongly suggest not buying one. I was hoping 2023 would be a big season of outback and desert touring, with trips planned to the Eastern Goldfields, Great Victoria Desert and the East Kimberley. However all the rain up in the Kimberley and that which came down into the deserts may change my plans drastically. One thing is certain, I wont have to worry about fuel line failures. Now that she has a new heart, main arteries and valves, the Old Girl is as good as new.

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With over 40 years experience teaching Outback Survival, Bob Cooper has produced what he calls the ‘Trilogy for Survival’. Along with enough water, Bob believes every time you go bush, no matter what form of transport, these three items should accompany you in case something doesn’t go to plan and you’re in an emergency situation – anywhere. A quality Three stretch elastic bandages. Quality survival blanket. emergency/survival kit. Multiple uses and first aid. This one spells HELP.

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OUTBACK SURVIVAL with BOB COOPER

Reasons for fire A fire does so much for us physically and psychologically that it will always be in a survivalist's catalogue of desires in a real survival situation. Reasons for fire (not in order of importance):

• Smoke used in the drying process of meat or fish flesh strips • Making herbal concoctions for medicines

• Psychological comfort — simply feels good

• Purify water by boiling

• Warmth

• Sterilise bandages in boiling water

• Day time smoke signals

• Burn unwanted food scraps that may attract uninvited animals

• Night time firelight signals • Cook food

• Sterilise metal knife blades and needles for first aid procedures

• Destroy rubbish • Make charcoal

• Heat some types of rocks before knapping into tools

• Fire-harden wooden tools • “Back burn” in a bush fire

• Bend or straighten wood for tools or traps

• Light to see by — a torch or campfire

• Smoke or flush out animals in hunting

• Protection from insects and larger animals

• Burn out areas to sleep on the ground • Distilling salty or unclean water to produce drinking water Can you think of any other reasons to light a fire?

A TIP TO REMEMBER Never cook and/or eat where you are going to sleep. It attracts insects that attract small mammals that attract snakes. Wild dogs, dingoes and, in other countries, big cats and bears are all attracted to the odours of gutting and cooking of game. Prepare, cook and eat both away and downwind of your sleeping area. Predators are unwanted visitors, particularly when you are asleep and vulnerable.

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FISHY BUSINESS with JOHN BORMOLINI

Simple Pleasures Yellowfin from the Beach Loading up the 4WD or boat and heading off on a big trek with the promise of great fishing, hopefully in-store, is what many of us live for. These bigger trips obviously take a lot of meticulous planning as well as optimism but don’t always go to plan. There are some simpler shorebased angling pursuits that can be very rewarding with the right know-how and opportunity and, for me, hunting out solid yellowfin whiting is definitely one of them.

hasing whiting from the shore might seem pretty lame to lots of fisherfolk with thoughts of unexciting small fish and boring time spent standing on the beach. In fact, scoping out the right spots with the 4WD to begin with, hunting them out on foot and then sight-casting to cruising big yellowfin in the shallows is a great way to spend half a day.

Hunting out or stalking are the operative words here. Success still relies on the right techniques and approach but it’s knowing where to look and at the right times. Yellowfin whiting are found along various sections of our southern beaches and estuaries from Perth right around the south west corner but also in spots along the Gascoyne and Pilbara coastlines. Mid-summer through to midautumn is the best time to hunt them out in the south from around Mandurah, White Hills, down through Preston Beach, Myalup, Peppermint Beach and around Geographe Bay. The milder winter months are more productive in the north where they’re in more protected sandy coastlines and bays. Exmouth Gulf is a great example and perfect yellowfin haunt.

Fish spotted – time to rig up.

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Yellowfin will start to cruise into the shallows on the rising tide, foraging along the sandy bottom as the surge and backwash of the water’s edge laps along and exposes potential food. They prefer calmer water and usually patrol along in groups from three or four up to decent shoals of twenty or thirty fish. While they’re at home slowly cruising the shallows within easy casting distance, they can be skittish and easily spooked.

or four or even a dozen, and so part of the technique is not to fish out as deep as possible with the cast. More often than not herring (which are rampant and hungry just before their spawning period in May) will jump on your offering instead. Although more slender and less fat than deep offshore sand whiting that can be

They target pipis and beach worms and forage in close, often in groups of three

Jumbo amongst the rest – a prize yellowfin occasionally turns up.

Swanbourne specimens, amongst the pipis.

Finding the right spot on the Preston stretch.

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caught in 30-odd metres of water over sandy bottoms, the average size for our beach yellowfin will be around 25 to 30 centimetres. Occasionally some larger fish will turn up and these 40-centimetre fish will pull hard as they fight in the shallows parallel to the shore. A lot of anglers are not really certain of the difference between our shore based western school whiting and yellowfin whiting. Apart from the bright yellow fins, the clear marker is that yellowfin do not have the small, dark grey patch at the base of their pectoral fin and less vee in their tail fin. A light flick rod is sufficient because long casts aren’t necessary. A running ball sinker down A good morning’s work. A beautiful haul of beach caught yellowfin whiting.

to a swivel and about a metre of leader line attached to a single long shank hook is one approach to use. Another effective method is with weight at the bottom and a typical paternoster rig, one or two individual hooks tied above the sinker. A small piece of fresh prawn will tempt them, as will a small section of beach worm or bloodworm if you can get them. In more recent years the use of ultralight gear and tiny hard body lures has become popular, especially in some of our very calm estuarine waters such as the Peel Inlet. In this case, it’s almost like a trout fishing. A good set of polarized sunglasses, small knapsack, light flick rod and spinning reel with very light terminal tackle is optimum. The key is to be able to spot but not spook the fish. Stay out of the water and cast ahead of where the fish are cruising, not into the middle of them. A steady retrieve that drags the bait across the oncoming path will almost certainly see two or three fish peel off and nose along behind the bait. Keep the rod tip parallel to the water line and low and at the first sign of a take

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Perfect conditions.

Solid Peppy Beach yellowfin.

smoothly set the hook with a gentle sweep of the rod. From thereon, don’t stop winding because the fish sometimes appear to be coming in quietly until the last few metres of water where they then try to bolt. With the right skills yellowfin are usually large enough to fillet and, lightly dusted in flour and pan fried in butter with some lemon thyme and salt and pepper, they’re nothing short of delicious. Smaller ones are just as easily fried whole and carefully lifting out the backbone leaves the sweetest tasting delicacy. If you’re looking to enjoy some solitude with your 4WD on the beach as you scope out the yellowfin spots, make sure you do the right beach driving things. Without overstating the obvious, sand driving (no matter how easy it looks) can always catch you out if you’re not well prepared or are too slack to lower your tyre pressure enough. If it all comes together with perfect weather, calm seas and obliging yellowfish, the exercise is well worth the effort.

Simple and delicious – a spread of filleted yellowfin.

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GEAR TO GO CAMPING Wacaco MiniPresso NS2 – Capsule Coffee Maker

he Minipresso NS2 is the new generation of the well-known MiniPresso NS. Smaller and lighter, it’s even more portable while still offering amazing espresso quality through the use of Nespresso® coffee capsules (or brands using this same shape).

It is worth noting that Wacaco say that some non-Nespresso® capsules may not work well with their machines, such as ones that are capsules with filter paper membranes. But so far, we have had no trouble with a few different brands. Now, although considered by some coffee snobs as lazy, the advantage of brewing with a capsule is that the coffee is already ground, measured, and tamped with high precision, in a condensed hermetically sealed package which preserves all the flavours of freshly ground coffee.

There is very little left for error, so your espresso looks and tastes great each time. The use of capsules is convenient, mess free and now many capsules are biodegradable, instead of using aluminium. Also released is a cracking little carry box for keeping everything organised — a capsule box, coaster and towel all housed in a felt case. Currently retailing for $89 for the NS2 and $49 for the Storage Case, check them out at Go Camping & Overlanding in Balcatta.

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GEAR TO GO CAMPING

Road Chef 12 Volt Ovens

he category of 12V ovens has been around for much longer than most people probably know, with us recalling something happening in the 70’s to keep food warm on long trips, however in recent years the stainless steel travel variety of 12V ovens have hit their straps, buoyed by long distance drivers of trucks and caravanners looking to save a few dollars by avoiding the roadhouses and instead tucking into their Four'N Twenties sourced from the supermarket. Specifically, Road Chef’s range of ovens was born out of need when the supply chain of other brands couldn’t keep up with the demands. A temperature gauge will get you cooking from 80 to 180°C. The thermostat in the oven will automatically turn it on and off keeping it at the right temperature. It will stand the test of time with parts being made from 304 or 316 stainless steel. The tried and tested standard oven will draw 8.3 amps / 100 watts when it is

operating fully, so best read the fine print or you’ll end up melting your wiring! The team at Go Camping & Overlanding in Balcatta have two models currently available, the original at around eight litre capacity and the Big Bertha at 13 litres. Prices start from $249 at the time of writing. There is also a nifty baking tray made by Road Chef for their units which comes at an additional $25 that is worth checking out too!

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GEAR TO GO CAMPING

Southern Metal Spinners 'Spun Steel' Camp Ovens

k so nothing new here but good news is they're the ultimate coldweather companion, perfect for cooking up hearty winter camping meals. Why do you want a Spun Steel Camp Oven over a cast iron version? Well, for a start they are very friendly to your GVM issues, weighing less than 5kg for either the small or the large. They are also stronger and less brittle meaning they won’t break if dropped or exposed to endless corrugations! On the flipside for the traditionalists, no, they don’t disperse heat as evenly, although that could be read as they will react to heat better meaning a smaller

source of heat required … but be prepared for that heat to dissipate quicker on spun steel than cast iron. Currently retailing for $99 for the smaller oven and $109 for the large.

Gear Aid Heroclip

ow's this for nifty? The Gear Aid Heroclip is a multifunctional carabiner that you can twist into a hook to hang your gear around the campsite. It has a swivel that allows gear to be faced in any direction while it's hanging. It comes in a few sizes and all in all is a handy little accessory for a whole range of uses. Not intended to hold the weight of people!! Prices range based on size, starting at around $30.

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Lil'DUMPLIN' The days are becoming cooler and as they do, our thoughts start turning to delicious hot meals that can not only provide us with a tingle on the tastebuds but a warmth from within.

his is especially true if we find ourselves camping in one of Western Australia’s many spectacular locations beside a campfire as the sun begins to set. Being that we are mindful of the number of things we need to take and pack away in our vehicle, caravan or trailer before heading off to spend some time in the bush, I have tried where possible to construct different dishes from the same set of standard ingredients and this recipe is one of them. Over the years I have discovered the basic scone dough, with the addition of a couple of additional ingredients can be turned into many other things.

I have shared with you the delicious donuts, chocolate scone bombs and this recipe is another variation on the theme. Most of us, if not all of us, will have some self-raising flour in the tucker box because we all want to have a go at making a damper in the camp oven at least once during our camping trip. The other two ingredients, being cream and lemonade, are not particularly out-of-thisworld ingredients to have in the tucker box already also. With this recipe, it is then up to the individual as to what other ingredients are added. I’ve gone with apricots.

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CLEWED UP with JO CLEWS Apricot Dumplings You will need: 2 cups of self-raising flour 150ml of pouring cream or 200ml UHT 100-150ml of lemonade 800ml of apricot nectar 1 cup of chopped, dried apricot Place the flour and apricot pieces into a mixing bowl, make a depression in the middle of the flour and pour in the cream (use the whole 200ml carton if using UHT cream and 150ml if using fresh cream) then add the lemonade (100ml if you have used UHT cream or 150ml for fresh cream). Combine the ingredients with a butter knife until you have a stiff dough and all ingredients are combined. Pour the apricot nectar into a large pot, saucepan or small camp oven and bring to a gentle simmer over a low heat. Evenly divide the dumpling dough into 12-18 small pieces and roll into quite tight balls.

UHT cream is a very handy pantry staple that requires no refrigeration and the Devondale brand can be whipped when cold. Other dried fruit pieces can be used instead of apricot e.g. apple cinnamon or sultanas. Other fruit juices can be used instead of apricot nectar e.g. apple juice for the apple cinnamon version.

Gently place the dough balls into the hot apricot nectar and simmer with the lid on for up to 10 minutes or until puffed and fluffy (if your pot is not large enough to cook all of them at once you will need to do two batches). Remove the dough balls from the nectar and gently reduce the liquid until it becomes a quite thick sauce. Serve with hot custard, ice-cream or cream. Enjoy.

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FIRE COOKING with CHRIS JELLIE

A Peaceful Dam Time

coldie in hand. Whilst I have done a lot of travel, it has always been with my partner and our daughter. This was my first solo camp. I split some wood and get to building my fire for the evening, it gets quite fresh here at this time of year.

pull into camp, early afternoon on a Sunday. This place can get busy, which isn’t my style. Knowing this, I had always planned to stay when it's quieter. Glen Mervyn Dam was finished in 1969 according to Water Corp records and is used as a recreation area and as an irrigation dam over the dryer months for the downstream Preston Valley. It is perched nicely up in the hills, just far enough out of the way. I found a great spot here that is elevated and overlooks the dam, gaining a very nice vantage point! I pull up, slide out my fridge, throw the chair out and take in the view with a

I set up the tent and sleeping gear and get back to sitting around the fire. Taking in the surroundings of the marri and jarrah that dominates this area. What a cracking arvo it is to be in the bush! Where I stayed was steep to the water, plus gravel and mud. There are portions of sandy beach that are a great option to camp. While Glen Mervyn is smaller than the likes of Wellington Dam, there are plenty of options to explore around the banks. During winter, while the water levels are low is the quietest out here — skiing is only permitted when the water level is higher. There is plenty of space for a paddle in the kayak or the likes.

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Time to get the food happening, skinless pork belly, local pumpkin and boiled spuds. I’ll get into more about that in the detailed recipe. The belly was off a homegrown pig and came up great in a basket next to the fire! After a good nosh and a quality stout, it was time for lights out. Awakening to the sound of redtailed black cockatoos will never get old, for me anyway. They squak nearby while blue wrens dart around for a morning feed. I sort the fire out again and get to making my coffee. What an excellent morning! No wind, no clouds and blue skies.

This undoubtedly fuelled my clean and pack up, while taking my time to take in that view. It’s bloody ripper getting out and spending time in nature, it relaxes and recharges! Take care excellent people!!

I got coffee sorted while cracking on with the breakfast beans recipe from a previous issue. This time I’m using smoked short rib meat as the protein and adding eggs in to poach in the sauce.

We bring food & knowledge, you bring your camping gear Practice a range of techniques Hands on learning All in sensational settings across WA Follow us on the socials to keep up to date with our adventures

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FIRE COOKED PORK BELLY I

love a good bit of pork on my fork! I appreciate this cut more than most as I butchered the animal myself. Now, I know there may be some disappointment here, I skinned this pig so there isn’t any crackle. I will get into crackle another day but I feel that’s its own entire subject. The result here though, is still an excellent chew and the remainder, if any, can be thinsliced and pan fried as a great bacon alternative!! So, this one for me was more about the camp than the cook so its relatively low input, which works well for a first night at camp. Take care and happy cooking!!

Ingredients 1 skinned pork belly Dry rub or seasoning of your choice Binder for rub to stick - olive oil or mustard

TOOLs Fire cooking basket. There are many on the market and can be found at Go Camping and Overlanding in Balcatta. Fire cooking stand, or improvise and use a rock or a stick to prop it up.

METHOD Rub/ season your meat. If you are using a dry rub, these usually pack a heap of flavour so go easy. If you are using just salt, go heavier without over salting. The belly isn’t usually the biggest cut. Place the meat in the basket and lean it at an angle near the fire. You want to be able to put your hand there for about 5 - 6 seconds. Cook, flipping when you start building colour. Expose each side to the fire until you reach 165°F or 73°C. You can push it further temp wise although you won’t get as clean a slice for the “bacon”. Rest your meat in a warm spot for 20 minutes, if you can. Slice and enjoy with some sides of your choice.

140 | Western 4W Driver #126 | western4wdriver.com.au

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LANDCRUISERS AT LOGGERHEAD

Dirk Hartog Island

4WD CLUB FOCUS If you would like your club featured in our 4WD Club Focus, please email admin@western4wdriver.com.au

BY GORDON & CHERYL OBRADOVIC (GYPSY) — TOYOTA LANDCRUISER CLUB OF WA

After months of planning, the crew gathered at the Overlander Roadhouse at 10am, Wednesday 1st March 2023.

efuelling themselves and their vehicles as it was the last fuel stop, the participants were: 1. Trip Leader: Stuart Wilson (GUS) driving the trusty 79 series LandCruiser 2. John and Jane Lutz (RATTY) — Prado 3. Eduardo Averbuj (BUJ) — Prado 4. Goran and Cheryl Obradovic (GYPSY) — 105 Landcruiser and, 5. Peter and Heather Sanders (COLONEL) — Prado The sun was blazing 38 degrees and we thanked our air conditioner as we started the trip to the Useless Loop turnoff.

Some discussion was had about the weather forecast for Dirk Hartog, as we hoped it would cool down for our turtle viewing adventure. GUS was providing an informative commentary on the land we were traversing including salt mining and their contribution in maintaining the road condition. We aired down once the blacktop ended and we eagerly travelled to Steep Point as it is the most westerly point of mainland Australia. During our drive the temperature climbed above 40 degrees and as we approached the water Cheryl was keen to cool her feet. GUS promptly added that this is called Shark Bay for a reason and Cheryl retorted she would take the risk and then we spotted a Hammerhead shark. Timing is everything, but it didn’t hinder Cheryl and Heather

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as they carefully waddled in ankle deep water to cool down briefly. We reached our camp site and GUS unhitched his camper trailer before we drove to Steep Point. Much excitement and many photo opportunities were taken amongst our group as we pondered our location here. Being the only people in Australia so far west, yeehaw. The Colonel took awesome photos with his new drone. We headed back to the campsite to set up for the night as we needed to be up early to board the barge across to Dirk Hartog Island. We had a wonderful calm evening sleeping under the stars before waking up to a fresh morning watching the fishermen eagerly get into their boats ready to start the day. The barge arrived around 7am and GUS went first with the convey order maintained during the calm crossing. Some of us took the opportunity for a cool swim while waiting for everyone to cross. A shovel nose shark was seen close by which shortened the swim somewhat. We made it to the island ECO Lodge and checked in with the staff while sipping on fresh coffee. There were only seven vehicles on the island and five were ours, a great start to our island adventure.

northern end. It was a scenic slow drive appreciating the terrain and aquamarine water in the distance. GUS was once again very knowledgeable with commentary on local wildlife and island history. We all agreed that GUS’s Outback Adventures was a good name for our trip. Dampier's Landing was our campsite behind the sand dunes and the heat took its toll as we set up our tents in the late afternoon. So much so that we had a cool down swim and waited in the shade before meeting up with the Colonel at Turtle Bay campsite for a sundowner. Turtle Bay was the action site, and the Colonel was our watch master for the turtles. We enjoyed the sunset overlooking Cape Inscription Lighthouse and Turtle Bay pondering the history of our location over a cool beverage. That night as we drove into our camp, we saw hundreds of ghost crabs and we took care not to run over them. Thankfully, they are harmless but very inquisitive as they came close and tried to climb our legs on occasion. We took care to zip up our tents for the night as we eased into slumber.

Dirk Hartog is about 80 kilometers long and our campsite was on the

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The next morning, we made breakfast and RATTY shared their encounter with the Ghost crabs during the night. No harm was done but for a little nip from a curious claw. Off we set to meet up with the Colonel and visit Cape Inscription Lighthouse and the place where Dirk Hartog first placed his commemorative plate to mark his landing. Standing next to the working Stevenson Lighthouse and taking in the history of Western Australia was remarkable. We marvelled at the replica plates left in Inscription Bay by Dirk Hartog and then William Vlaming some 80 years later. How Australia could have gone on a different path in colonisation. After many photos, it was a particularly warm day and some of the group climbed down to a swimming hole, while Buj and Gyspsy took the option of an early lunch and cooling down on the verandah of the building that was once home for the lighthouse keepers and now a place for the visiting rangers. After lunch we headed onto Urchin Point on the west side of the island. We took in the magnificent scenery and the cliffs of this harsh side of the island. We thought it would be amazing during winter when the wind would churn up the sea and cast the ocean spray upon the cliffs. As the evening was fast approaching, we set back for camp.

We had a visit from a father and son who were spearfishing on the island. They were looking for a witness for the weighing of their catch. GUS has experience in such matters and kindly offered to help. They were very grateful and offered a large crayfish to us. Later that evening we shared the crayfish even though no campfires were allowed but that didn’t hinder the evening gathering. The next day was a slow start as we planned to take our time exploring the west side of the island. A good, cooked breakfast was on order before we set off. We saw eagles on our way to Mystery Beach. The beach appeared to be a place where everything washed up. It was full of ropes, plastic containers, cray pots and everything else that could float. We helped gather some debris off the beach and placed it in a pile for the rangers to dispose of easily.

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We set off further exploring the west coast and came upon a sandy hill. Unfortunately, Ratty ceased forward motion at the top. We attempted to engage traction with a set of Maxtrax but they just disappeared into the sand. Thankfully Ratty has a front winch and used the mighty 105 series to escape the sand trap. As the convoy set out again it reminded us of the benefits of travelling in a club and having the correct gear to get out of trouble. After lunch we continued, and GUS demonstrated the 79 series' ability to climb up a steep sandy hill. The convoy looked at the challenge and opted for a less sandy left sided track with no effort at all. Another lesson in driving is to carefully pick your line. Travelling to Quoin Head, we made a stop for a little bit of fishing. Some of us wet a line casting off the cliff edge. Unfortunately, Gus lost a line to a whopper of a fish and Gypsy was reeling in a large snapper until the line broke at the base of the cliff. Now we had a story of the fish that got away. There is a big fish to be caught on Dirk Hartog Island, but you need to be prepared with the right gear.

small sharks were spotted close to shore. We wet our feet and walked on the beach before heading back north to Turtle Bay. Most of us went for a cool swim but Gypsy got the fishing bug and landed a flat head fish that was shared that evening. The last day on the north part of the island was a rest day. The Colonel was our main turtle scout man and very motivated keeping watch on the beach for any signs of hatching. He spotted some turtles the previous night and expectations for tonight were high. True to his word, the Colonel honked his horn and shouted, “the turtles are here,” as he stormed our camp that evening. We all jumped into our vehicles and quickly made our way to Turtle Bay, excitement building as we are fortunate to see this miracle of nature. Using our red lights so not to unsettle the baby turtles, we hurried down to the beach shore. Thankfully we saw the hatchlings make their way to the water. It was a very

After Quoin Head, we travelled to the east side of the island to Sandy Point. The calm waters looked inviting, but several

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We headed back for a cool swim followed by a shower and fresh clothes, all set to sample the local Inscription Gin for the evening. Much laughter was had as we drank and enjoyed recalling our wonderful couple of days. A few bottles were sold and samples had as we enjoyed the beautiful sunset on the bay.

special moment, and we were fortunate to see two turtles come ashore. As we drove back to camp at Dampier's Landing feeling content, we saw that a strong wind has blown some of the camp down. We managed to secure as much as we could as we made the best of a windy night. Early morning camp was broken as we all had little sleep getting up during the night to secure our tents. We were happy to be leaving the north part of the island for a sheltered bay at the homestead. Enjoying the slow travel that morning, we listened to the informative commentary from GUS. When we reached the sand dunes, Buj was keen to have some fun, bringing out the adventurer within. Unfortunately, he got bogged and once again the 105 was used for a snatch recovery. We made it to the homestead where we chose and set up our camp for the night. After some lunch, we set for the blowholes, but the Ratty’s decided to sit this one out. Once again, the terrain was amazing and the cliffs off the west side spectacular.

Early morning, we packed up and made our way to Cape Ransonnet to catch the barge back to the mainland. Another great crossing with the Colonel and Buj going first as they had to make good time back to Perth. Ratty, Gypsy and GUS travelled together back from Steep Point. Along the way GUS found an awning which was suspected to have come off Buj’s car. He took the awning with him to give Buj a pleasant call later. When we reached the black top, we aired up and travelled to the main road, disposing of our rubbish in the bins provided. We said our farewells as Ratty and Gypsy turned off towards Denham and GUS headed back to Perth. Another great adventure was had with many fond memories made.

western4wdriver.com.au | Western 4W Driver 126 | 147 #

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ay, it looks as if Karl Fehlauer’s articles on Smart Photography — pop back into the last few issues of Western 4W Driver and check them out — are really doing good. Or Michelle Parton is just a natural when it comes to taking spectacular shots with her iPhone. Let’s praise both of ‘em. The image that takes this issue’s prize was taken in WA’s eastern goldfields. I’m betting on afternoon near sunset, though technically you could also get lovely red

and orange colours at sunrise as well. But there are clues in the picture that tell us a lot about it — and a little about Michelle. Okay — first off you see that she likes to go out bush. I mean, this is Western 4W Driver magazine after all. The fact that it IS bush and there’s a 4WD vehicle in the background sort of confirms this, but note: a. The vehicle is parked on level ground. None of the tyres we can see are flat or bogged. This means Michelle is a smart driver.

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b. There is a tent set up behind the vehicle. This means Michelle is wise enough to be comfortable in bush conditions. She may have spent nights under a sheet of tin in the rain in the past, but she is determined not to do it on this night. A smart camper. c. There is a fire started and burning its way down to coals. Michelle has set it up far enough away from the car and tent so they are not in danger. There is a clear space around it. There’s a shovel handy to regulate the thing and possibly to put potatoes wrapped in foil or a camp oven into the coals. A good dinner in the bush is the measure of the clever and experienced traveller. Good cook.

And thank you, Michelle, for the lovely photo. As a migrant many years ago, I was impressed by many things in Western Australia but one of the really spectacular sights was the painterly skies that accompanied change of seasons. As a photographer I chase clouds as well, and am never disappointed.

d. The camp is set up and ready well before the sun disappears. Doing it right in the dead dark — when you are dead beat — is rarely possible. Michelle stopped in time to do the right thing.

Send us a photo FOR YOUR CHANCE TO WIN A PRIZE

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Email photos to: submissions@western4wdriver.com.au

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www.fredhopkinswa.com.au 150 | Western 4W Driver #126 | western4wdriver.com.au

SMART PHOTOGRAPHY with KARL FEHLAUER

Low Light Capabilities Welcome to Edition 126 and my next article on smartphone / small sensor photography. In this article I concentrate on the low light capabilities of the smartphone sensors and provide some guidance when trying to take photos in low light situations.

his article has come about because of the recent release of the Samsung S23 series and in particular the S23 Ultra — its main selling point is supposedly its excellent low light / night time

capabilities. I say ‘supposedly’ simply because I haven’t used one yet, but from watching all of the reviews on the S23 Ultra it looks like a beast of a camera when it comes to low light photography. Even Apple’s new iPhone 14 Pro Max promotes its low light capabilities as one of its major selling points, demonstrating how far smartphones have come from simply being a phone with a built-in camera to, now, a camera with a built-in phone. As good as the advertising is though, while these cameras are taking very capable low light images, they still aren’t on par with the top end DSLRs.

Rockingham Foreshore - Sunset.

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Though, when used correctly with an understanding of their limitations, they can capture some amazing images.

blurry images due to shaking from your hand or movement within the scene you are trying to capture.

The images in this article were taken by me with my Samsung S21. The phone was handheld, which isn’t the best way to get good images, but does show what can be achieved with a smartphone.

To make up for the limitations of the small sensor, the smartphone manufacturers have spent more time advancing the ‘computational photography’ in their software and therefore, they use algorithms to enhance the images captured.

The first thing to understand about smartphones — and their biggest limiting factor — is they have very small sensors. Ideally, when it comes to low light photography, the bigger the sensor, the better the quality of the image that will be produced.

Having said that though, there is only so much software can do and it then comes down to the other accessories the photographer uses to assist them with taking low light images.

Many cameras’ specifications concentrate on how many megapixels a sensor has, rather than the size of the sensor itself, and this can be very misleading as a bigger resolution doesn’t necessarily mean a better image. This is why DSLR cameras with 20-megapixel (MP) sensors are superior to smartphone cameras with 200 MP (Samsung S23 Ultra).

Firstly, you will need a tripod. The benefit of a smartphone is that the tripod doesn’t have to be as big as one used for DSLRs, but it does need to be sturdy. Tripods come in all sizes from very small ones (desktop tripods) to GorillaPods to standard photography ones. Which one is the best will come down to what you want to use it for and your budget.

A bigger sensor simply means that it can capture more light, and this light determines the camera’s exposure balance, dynamic range and the sharpness. A high resolution allows for greater detail but this comes at a cost and is why small sensors struggle in low light as they simply can’t capture enough light.

GorillaPods are good if you have a small budget and want a tripod that is flexible and can be attached to other items. GorillaPods have flexible legs that can wrap around poles, handrails, sit on rocks etc. They are small and lightweight, therefore making them easy to carry.

You can offset the drawbacks of the smaller sensors by taking a longer exposure, but if you are hand-holding the camera, you are at a greater risk of having

If you are using a ‘standard’ tripod then you will need a Smartphone Tripod Adapter Phone Stand to mount your smartphone to. These range from very cheap (made from plastic) to expensive

Shoalwater - Sunset.

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(made from alloy) but the choice is yours, as they do the same thing. Just do a Google search and you will find what you can afford and need. Once you have found your subject, you will need to get your smartphone camera ready. I always recommend using ‘manual’ or ‘Pro modes’ when taking photos as this give you greater control over the outcome of the images. As a general rule of thumb, the darker the conditions, the longer your exposure will have to be. Most smartphone cameras have a fixed aperture of between F1.5 – F2.4, which will automatically let in a lot more light. Then all you have to do is select your shutter speed and ISO (camera’s sensitivity to light). Your shutter speed needs to match your subject, by this I mean, if it is a static subject, you can have a longer shutter speed but if it is moving then you will need a faster shutter speed. You will also need to adjust your ISO to balance out your exposure and generally the same rule applies as above — for a static subject you can use a lower ISO, while a moving subject will require a higher ISO. Remember, the higher the ISO the more that digital noise will occur. For example, the photo of the Cenotaph (Image 1) at Kings Park was shot at F2 at 1/50th sec ISO 100 and the photo of the kite surfer (Image 2) was shot at F2 at 1/250th sec ISO 320. Both images were taken at roughly the same time at dusk but required different settings. Lastly, I want to touch on nightscape photography as many more people are taking photos of the night sky / Milky Way with their smartphones than ever before and if you intend to do this, here are some pointers for you. Firstly, your smartphone needs to be securely mounted to a tripod as there is no way that you will get a sharp handheld image of the Milky Way. Next, your aperture is fixed at F1.5 – F2.4 and you can’t adjust that, so your shutter speed should be no more than 10 – 15 seconds

Image 1.

Image 2.

to avoid star trails. Finally set your ISO to between 1600 and 3200 and take a test shot. On looking at the image, you need to adjust your shutter speed first if there are star trails and then your ISO and keep making the adjustments until you get the images that you are after. If you need more information, there are plenty of videos on YouTube for you to watch and learn from but the best way to learn, is to get out there and practice, practice and have fun. Anyway, I hope you are enjoying my articles and learning something and until the next time, keep the shiny side up.

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NOW WE'RE TAWKING! Travelling Australia With Kids with MANDY FARABEGOLI

SCHOOLING ON THE ROAD One of the biggest worries for families who wish to travel Australia is schooling. It was mine when we first decided to travel, however it really was not as hard as I thought it would be.

n fact one of my most frequently asked questions is, “What do you wish you had known before you travelled Australia with your kids?” My answer is: I wished I’d known that I could teach my children, they would learn so much living on the road and exploring Australia and that I needn’t have stressed about it!

I’m Mandy Farabegoli and I run www.travellingaustraliawithkids.com encouraging families to take a few weeks, months or years and travel our amazing country. I travelled Australia with my husband and three children for two years and it was the best thing we ever did, as a couple and as a family. When my children went back into the school system, one of them was put straight into the academic extension program! So, I think I did quite well.

"Don't let schooling interfere with your education" Mark Twain

Options In Western Australia you can either register with S.I.D.E (the School of Isolated and Distance Education); you can enrol as a home educator and meet the ongoing valuations of registration; or, you maintain your child's enrolment at their current school and with the permission of your principal, you organise your child's educational program. The latter is what we did, and I would suggest is the easiest option.

Basic information on OPTIONS

• You may not have access to the internet to access the digital programs.

Register with S.I.D.E (the School of Isolated and Distance Education), a school delivering online education programs with digital technologies.

Enrol as Home Educator

The Good News • It is very comprehensive and structured, and the department takes responsibility for the child's learning and guides you on how to home-school. They provide the timetable and the work; you pretty much oversee your child. • You do not have to organise lesson plans. • The packages get delivered to your specified address — some emailed online, your child completes the work, and you send it off for marking. Much of the work is getting more computer orientated without the need for lots of books to pack. • There is a lot of it! It's almost like your

• You might not know where you will be in two weeks to advise delivery of any packages. You may want to move on but are still waiting for a package to arrive. • There may not be ANY postage whatsoever in remote areas.

S.I.D.E

The Bad News

child is at school, but you still must fit in your travelling and sightseeing; there seems to be little time for anything else.

To register as a home educator, the department firstly assesses that you know how to home-school — but also as far as I can make of the legislation, you must have a registered permanent address to be able to do this (but of course, you will be travelling). The department monitors your child and makes home visits. This is where it does get tricky, as obviously it is not really an option if you are travelling! However, I have heard that some have become more flexible with online monitoring. The Good News • You can tailor your child's education to suit them and their individual abilities. • It is not so structured as the Distance Education, and you can adjust their learning to suit your location and other activities.

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principal. The principal will consider your situation and if they agree that you can provide a good education for your child, they will provide you with an exemption. The Good News • You can tailor your child's education to suit them and their individual abilities. • It is not as structured as S.I.D.E. and you can adjust their learning to suit your location and other activities.

• You may be able to defer the home monitoring until you get back home. (Although unless you have developed a passion for home-schooling your child/children, you'd be re-enrolling them back in their old school upon return anyway.) The Bad News • You need to apply to become a home educator and demonstrate your ability and commitment to educate you child you may not be approved. • You need to source your child’s education material and devise a study plan and have a good idea on how to home school your child - this can be daunting for some. • You are travelling and therefore will not be at home for the home visit, so may not be an option. Maintain Current Enrolment I personally believe this is your best option and what we did. For us, S.I.D.E. was too restricting and I didn't want to enrol as a home educator as I knew I would not be doing this going forward. We only intended to travel for one year (although it turned into two, so we chose to maintain our child's current enrolment.) Should you choose this option you would firstly discuss the options related to your child’s education with your school

• You do not have to wait for postage or rely on internet connectivity to educate your child. The Bad News • You need to source your child's education material, devise a study plan and have a good idea on how to home school your child — this can be daunting for some. BUT we have some great resources on our website travellingaustraliawithkids.com • You do need to be motivated and disciplined to keep up a regular schooling, as without having to answer to any educational body, it can be easy to let go. Obviously, it is in your interest to educate your children, you do not want them to be behind when they recommence normal schooling and they will not want to be behind their peers. In fact, that alone was enough to encourage my children to do their schooling. They did not want to repeat a year and be in a school year below their friends. Finally, there is so much learning to be done on the road and in my article next time, we will cover this in more detail. If you are thinking of travelling Australia with your kids, do not let schooling them put you off. You can do it. Many, many families around Australia are doing it and we at Travelling Australia With Kids (T.A.W.K.) have lots more information on our website to help and encourage you to do this.

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Involve the kids! WILDFLOWER FUN Getting children involved in finding Western Australian wildflowers can be a fun and educational experience for the whole family. Here are some ideas for how to make it happen:

Plan a wildflower walk Take the kids on a walk through the countryside or bushland, armed with a map or guidebook to identify the various wildflowers you might find along the way. Encourage them to keep their eyes open for any flowers they recognise, and take note of any unusual ones they see.

Visit a wildflower farm Western Australia is home to many wildflower farms, where you can see a wide variety of native plants in bloom. Take the kids on a tour of the farm and let them see the wildflowers up close.

Go on a scavenger hunt Make a list of different types of wildflowers for the kids to find, and send them off on a scavenger hunt to see who can find them all first. This can be a fun way to get the kids excited about finding different flowers and learning about their different features.

Take photographs Encourage the kids to take photographs of any wildflowers they find, and then look up information about them online or in a guidebook. This can be a great way to learn more about the different species of wildflowers and their unique features.

Make wildflower art Once you've found some wildflowers, encourage the kids to make some art inspired by what they've seen. This could be anything from a simple drawing or painting to a more complex craft project using dried flowers or other natural materials. Overall, getting children involved in finding Western Australian wildflowers can be a fun and rewarding experience for everyone involved. Whether you're taking a walk through the countryside, visiting a wildflower farm, or going on a scavenger hunt, there are plenty of opportunities to learn about the natural world and appreciate its beauty.

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PUZZLES FOR KIDS WILDFLOWER word search BANKSIA CASCADE CASSIA CORNFLOWER EVERLASTING FANFLOWER GREVILLEA LAMBSWOOL LOBELIA MILKMAID MULLAMULLA ORCHID POMPOM ROSEMARY SEABOX SMOKEBUSH TRIGGERPLANT WATTLE WAXFLOWER WREATH

B F D J S M C R U W R E A T H L A E O A N Q M G S B I T E X V R J Q C G I N H E O P L A M B S W O O L W S O K F B U K W C N U D Y A H S O M U R L L R D E A B K L N Z T L E P E I C F O T X B P F S J E G T M M R A Y H G W Y K U A N I F A R L I A H K Z I L E C A S S I A M T J E L R G B C D Z R S V H N Z Q W L I Z K Y B V O Q W A X F L O W E R W G J M N O X R L O J G C X W C E V E R L A S T I N G K P O M P O M D C P E E I M C Q F T M O D V F K E I U A V H D F S G L B C A S C A D E S F Y I P O Y E V O N Q X T R I G G E R P L A N T A R W H S Z M U L L A M U L L A T W B M E J H O K Y S Q D R I V E P R X O U R K I A M T L O B E L I A H N D X B P F

Answer on page 161.

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Expiry

Your quick-find reference to products and services in Western 4W Driver ACCOMMODATION Queen of the Murchison................................. 108 APPS Pilbara East................................................................. 45 BATTERIES/BATTERY SYSTEMS Goodchild Enterprises...................................... 148 Redarc.......................................................................... 109 BRAKES Bendix............................................................................ 77 CAMPERS/CARAVANS & TRAILERS Off Road Equipment...........................................142 CAMPING SUPPLIES Bob Cooper Outback Survival......................124 Go Camping and Overlanding.....................132 COMMUNICATION Icom.................................................................................37 DESTINATIONS Pilbara East................................................................. 45 Ravensthorpe Wildflower Show...................75 Shire of Upper Gascoyne.................................103 WAnderland..............................................................116 4WD PARTS & ACCESSORIES Goldfields Offroad.................................................115 Make Tracks WA...................................................... 46 Maxtrax........................................................................IBC Medicar Automotive Solutions.......................15 Off Road Equipment .........................................142 RLD Design................................................................141 Supafit Seat Covers...............................................110 Ultimate9....................................................................105 MAGAZINES Western Angler.......................................................126 MAPS & NAVIGATION Hema Maps.............................................................. 106 WAITOC..........................................................................35