Discover a World of Wine within

WITH HUMBLE, FARM-VIEW CELLAR DOORS, LOVINGLY CRAFTED HOUSE-MADE CUISINE, BOUNDARY PUSHING BOUTIQUE WINES, AND INCREDIBLY RARE VARIETALS – DONNYBROOK PACKS A LOT INTO A SMALL PACKAGE WHEN IT COMES TO WINE.

By TORI WILSON

Discover Wines of the World within Donnybrook

Donnybrook is renowned as the apple capital of Western Australia thanks to its rich and fertile soils, but what most don’t know is that it’s perhaps also the Geographe Wine Region’s best kept secret.

Much of Donnybrook’s terroir comprises rich, loamy, and earthy soils with a layer of gravel allowing for free drainage; making it the perfect base for healthy vines that flourish when combined with the surrounding Mediterranean climate.

It’s this combination of growing conditions, which are distinctly like parts of Europe, that have led to Donnybrook’s steady uptake of interesting Spanish and Italian alternative varieties, putting it firmly on any discerning wine aficionado’s radar.

What makes the area even more special is Donnybrook's boutique approach to winemaking. It’ll often be the same pair of hands that tend to the vines, craft the wine, and share it with you over a tasting at the cellar door, so, take the afternoon to discover these hidden gems for yourselves.

Oakway Estate

The drive to Oakway Estate sets the scene for what’s in store at this humble and homely cellar door. Perched overlooking a plantation of sustainable blue gum trees, a small herd of beef cattle, and the modest but flourishing vineyard; the cellar door made of corrugated iron and simple wooden interiors seats up to about 25 and welcomes patrons to sit back and watch the world go by over a glass (or bottle) of wine.

Tuck into a freshly made woodfired pizza or a local produce-driven antipasto platter, including house-made chutneys, to complete the afternoon.

“Our philosophy is to offer an approachable, enjoyable experience, whether you’re here or at home,” says Ria Hammond who owns the winery, tends to the vines, and runs the cellar door, with her husband Wayne. “Australia is a very laid-back place and sometimes people over think wine. The

average Australian doesn’t do that so we’re just wanting to be laid-back and relaxed because that’s who we are.”

Having planted their first vines in 1997, today Oakway Estate serve a range of varietals with a focus on alternatives, including Vermentino, Malbec made in an Argentinian style, and Nero D’Avola, which they make as a red and rosé – both delicious, presenting fine tannins and plenty of juiciness for the red, and a delicate minerality and freshness for its rosé.

Wayne and Ria are often seeking to experiment and innovate, and they have an exciting project underway right now - newly grafted vines of a new and rare variety, due for release at the end of 2023. 575 Farley Road, Donnybrook Open Saturday and Sunday, 11am to 5pm.

Coughlan Estate

Nestled amongst the rolling hills of Donnybrook, you’ll find Coughlan Estate, with its architecturally eye-catching cellar door perched on a hill, floating above the vineyards below. Inside you’ll find a collection of art, crafts and produce by local artisans on display. Outside there are ample shaded benches where you can make the most of the setting and enjoy your wine in the sunshine.

“We’re known for our Chenin Blanc, which won a gold in the Geographe Wine Show for that last year (2021),” says Preeti Nirgude, who owns this estate with her husband Brad Coughlan. Though it’s not just the wine worth visiting for.

“On our menu absolutely everything is homemade. Our cellar door junior Ashley Walker won the juniors Donnybrook Apple Pie Competition, so you can come and have an Ashley Apple Pie," says Preeti.

Or choose from delicious local cheeses, lovingly made soups with local sourdough, and a selection of house-made gourmet pies. Try the beef, shiraz and rosemary pie, which Preeti starts by slow cooking the filling in a cast iron pot for six hours. It’s rich, flaky and melts in your mouth.

Enjoy a complimentary glass of wine when you visit Coughlan’s cellar door this winter. To redeem simply mention Found Magazine.

39 Upper Capel Road, Donnybrook Open Thursday to Monday, 11am to 4pm.

Barrecas

Step inside Barrecas and you will experience a little slice of Italy. With red concrete floor pressed to look like stone, this warm and inviting space built of jarrah and cedar is the soul of this family-run winery, owned by Filippo and Kelly Barrecas. On the wall you will see an eye-catching piece of art, reminiscent of an old Italian tapestry, which Kelly had commissioned by local Lithuanian artist Linda Skrolys.

Depicting generations of people aboard a boat in the foreground and set against a city in the background with the moon hovering above, the painting sets a tone for the cellar door; one that speaks of family, migration, growth, and continuous education. “Our three-word motto is family, tradition, and innovation,” says Kelly.

Barrecas boasts a vast range of varietals and blends that are available for tasting, including alternative Italian and Spanish varietals that flourish in the fertile Donnybrook soils and maritime climate. Its Shiraz-Malbec is hugely popular while its Barbera has earned a cult following,

TENDER TOUCH John Smallwater (left) and Coughlan Estate (below) carefully tend to their vines by hand.

IT’S PERHAPS ALSO THE GEOGRAPHE WINE REGION’S BEST KEPT SECRET.

for good reason – this deep red wine presents juicy notes of morello cherry and blackberry with a soft and supple tannin and bright acidity. South Western Highway, Donnybrook Open Thursday to Monday, 10am to 4pm.

Thomson Brook Estate

Perhaps the most heart-warming thing about this charmingly rustic winery is owners Terry and Pam Foster’s inclusivity and approach to life. Having established their winery in 1993, Pam and Terry have always found it special to see people from all around Australia and overseas drop in to taste their wines, so they generously encourage travellers to park up their RV and stay at their vineyard. Call ahead on +61 488 600 667 if you wish to stay.

Thomson Brook Estate produces a wide range of varietals including its standout Verdelho, as well as liqueurs and two fortified wines, red and white. 131 Thomson Rd, Donnybrook Open Monday to Sunday, 10am to 5pm.

Smallwater Estate

An iconic winery with a wonderful reputation, Smallwater Estate is one of the region’s most consistently awarded wineries. Producing Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz, Zinfandel and Petit Verdot, as it looks to expand its alternative varietals, the most recent additions to its vineyards include Fiano and Saperavi.

Its cellar door is an exquisite spot to sit back and soak in your natural surroundings. Take a seat on the sheltered, decked veranda and enjoy a tantalising grazing board with a glass of award-winning wine while you overlook the property’s large marron dams, sweeping vineyards and the rolling hills of Newlands. 52 Tramline Rd, Newlands Open Saturday and Sunday, 11am to 4pm.

Mandalay Road

While owners Tony and Bernice O’Connell never expected to run a winery when they first put down a few rows of vines on their property back in 1997, when the fruit flourished, their success organically

GAINING MOMENTUM Anne Mazza (left) of Mazza wines says Donnybrook is becoming increasingly known for its alternative varietals.

blossomed until they eventually became renowned for the award-winning wines Mandalay Road produce today.

You’ll find its small, rustic cellar door off the beaten track, nestled into the valley of the South Preston River. Its unique climate, with cold winter temperatures and cool nights in summer, encourage an extended ripening period, producing fruit bursting with flavour. They welcome patrons to visit for a tasting and stay to enjoy a picnic on the peaceful property (BYO or order 24-hours ahead for a platter). 254 Mandalay Rd, Glen Mervyn Call +61 408 182 490 to visit.

Mazza Wines

While Mazza Wines doesn’t have a cellar door, its wines are well worth hunting down to try. Producing ‘wines for the adventurous’, owners Anne and David Mazza have a particular interest in producing unique and alternative varietals that take them back to their years of backpacking through Europe. It was there they developed a passion for Spanish and Portuguese wines and recognised the similarities in climate to that at home.

Today, Mazza Wines’ vineyards thrive across 10-acres with Tempranillo, Graciano, Bastardo, Tinta Cão, Touriga Nacional, Sousão - and now Planta Fina.

While its Tempranillo is a best seller, its Planta Fina is an especially exciting addition – something totally new for the region. Even in Spain, where it originates, Planta Fina is rare due to the majority being wiped out from phylloxera.

“We found three vines in an abandoned vineyard and grew the cuttings from that. Then we did some testing and found it was this rare white variety,” says Anne. “It’s a very zingy, zippy white, that’s refreshing like Sauvignon Blanc and unoaked.” Visit mazza.com.au

Zein Estate

Something extremely exciting is coming to Donnybrook and it sounds as impressive as the wine it supports. Zein Estate will be opening a new cellar door, nearby heritage nursery Mostly Roses, on the secluded Needles Hill Road.

Due for completion towards the end of the year, 2022, the cellar door will be perched on top of the hill inside a large shed and will have an alfresco area overlooking the majestic valley below. The view from the cellar door will be of an expansive grassed area as well as a dam, with truffle trees and the ancient jarrah and marri state forest as a backdrop.

Given Sam’s Lebanese heritage, he plans to serve a spread of Mediterranean-style cuisine, such as falafel, fattoush, haloumi dishes, and pomegranate salad, which will complement his wines nicely.

“I want to keep (Zein Estate) a single vineyard winery so I will concentrate on quirky wines as well (as classics),” says Sam. “I’m doing a Nouveau Rouge that has Cab Franc and Merlot in it and that sells like hot cakes.” Visit zeinestate.com.au

TOP TIP

KEEP AN EYE out on your way for fruit stands on the roadside, including the road from Donnybrook to Boyup Brook. They’re often brimming with seasonal stone fruit or apples, picked fresh from the farms. Found on SW Highway just north of Donnybrook, the Custato family’s cherries will be the best gift Christmas could bring.

BOOK A TOUR with Hinterland Escapes to experience the best of the region without the hassle. Visit hinterlandescapes.com.au •