Your Margaret River Region Magazine Winter 2018 by Vanguard Publishing Perth

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magazine TAKE ME HOME

10 | WINTER 2018

Into the breach

WITNESS THE LARGEST CREATURES ON EARTH THIS WINTER

In this issue

• Cuddle up during Cabin Fever • Discover your favourite cave • Rug up with a glass of red • Explore Cowaramup

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Your pull-out guide to what’s on this winter

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WINTER 2018

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IMAGE Gordon Becker

Editor’s Letter Welcoming the winter months

ome might say that winter in the Margaret River region is one of WA’s great secrets. The crowds have dispersed, the beaches (although brisk and breezy) are largely empty and the weather just demands you snuggle up in front of a roaring fire with a big glass of a local red. Add to that the possibility of spotting a passing whale from the shoreline or on board a specialist tour, and you’ve got the ingredients for a pretty awesome holiday. So to celebrate this magical change, we’ve brought together a collection of stories designed to help make the most of your time in the region at this time of year. All you have to do is pack warm clothes and dive right in.

Your Margaret River Region Magazine acknowledges the Aboriginal people of Western Australia as the traditional custodians of this land, and we pay our respects to their Elders, past and present.

Cabin Fever is back this July, and after last year’s fantastic series of food and drink events, you’ll be spoiled for choice once more. If you’re in the mood for some casual eating experiences, there are plenty of places - some brand new that promise to keep the vibe relaxed and friendly. If you’re in search of some off the beaten track wines, Fergal has done the hard yards for you and uncovered some real treats - wineries that are embracing the organic movement, and others which embrace unusual grape varietals. If you’ve got little ones to entertain and the weather isn’t playing ball, Lizzy has road-tested some rainy day activities designed to keep everybody happy. She’s also explored the region's four cave attractions which between them offer something for everybody to enjoy. For those seeking the ultimate photo op, head to Wilyabrup Cliffs, and if you’re of an arty persuasion, why not book into an inspiring art break with one of the talented local artists who call the region home? We discover why so many people love to call Margaret River and its surrounds home (including a few famous names), and also find out why female brewers are making something of a splash in their industry. And then there’s our guide to making the most of a visit to Cow Town, discovering some local wool artisans and much more. Who said winter was boring? I hope you enjoy your visit.

Gabi

magazine PUBLISHED BY PREMIUM PUBLISHERS 26 John Street Northbridge Perth WA 6003 (08) 9273 8933 EDITOR Gabi Mills gabi@premiumpublishers.com.au ART DIRECTOR Cally Browning cally@barecreative.com.au SALES MANAGER Natalie du Preez (0426 752 352) natalie@premiumpublishers.com.au PHOTOGRAPHIC Tim Campbell (timcampbellphoto.com) Elements Margaret River (elementsmargaretriver.com.au) Bianca Turri (info@biancaturri.com) CONTRIBUTORS Dianne Bortoletto, Cassandra Charlick, Tom de Souza, Zoe Deleuil, Fergal Gleeson, Matthew Mills, Emma Pegrum, Lizzy Pepper, Janine Pittaway. ADVERTISING ENQUIRIES natalie@premiumpublishers.com.au EDITORIAL ENQUIRIES gabi@premiumpublishers.com.au PRINTED BY VANGUARD PRESS

All rights reserved. No material published in this magazine may be reproduced in whole or part without prior written authority. Every endeavour is made to ensure information contained is correct at time of going to print. ©2018 YOUR MARGARET RIVER REGION MAGAZINE is published quarterly by Premium Publishers on behalf of the Margaret River Busselton Tourism Association. Visit premiumpublishers.com.au

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Plan and book your holiday with Your Margaret River Region local experts. Find us at the Busselton, Dunsborough, Margaret River and Augusta Visitor Centres, email welcome @margaretriver.com or call (08) 9780 5911, seven days a week!

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WHAT YOUR MARGARET RIVER REGION GOT UP TO IN

Autumn perience? utique wine ex Looking for a bo (@brownhillestate). te ta Es Brown Hill

The road less travelled - beautiful Boranup Forest by @matt.deakin

A gap in space and

m15

time by @magicto

Head to

Glorious Injidup be ach as seen from ab @martineperret ove by

Epic autumn outdoor eating and sipping in the sunshine @eaglebaybrewing

Discovering the Wadandi Track by @paintedbymeg.

Them's the breaks by @magictom15

Incredible - no words needed - sunset at the natural spa at Wyadup by @hamishstubbs

We'd love to share your instagram pics! Take a pic, make sure you use #margaretriver by August 1 2018 for your chance to see it featured in the next issue.

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Contents WINTER 2018

Eat & Drink

Nature & Environment

14 Casual dining

54 Why we stay here

18 Off the shelf

56 Local wildlife 58 Meet the lighthouse keeper

22 Putting down roots

60 Which cave suits you best?

26 Say cheese

62 Whale season is here

28 Foodie day trips

64 Running & walking trails

30 Sweet partnership 32 Female brewers

Active & Adventure

Wine & Wineries

68 Big wave surfing

36 Winery doggos

72 Indoor fun for kids

38 Winter wine pairings

74 Magical Boranup Forest

42 Off the beaten track

76 BMW X2 reviewed

Arts & Wellbeing 86 Winter woolies 88 CinefestOz returns

46 Rad winter reds

80 See you in Dunsborough

90 Arty holidays

50 Biodynamic wines

84 Wilyabrup cliffs

94 Letâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s go to Cowaramup

WINTER MUSCLE RELAX A new package designed to relax & revive all five senses. For the ultimate full body experience. Back & Neck Massage | Facial Skin Treat | Foot & Leg Massage | Foot Mask 60 minutes, $165* per person

BOOK AT PULLMANBUNKERBAYRESORT.COM.AU/SPA *Offer valid 1 June - 31 August 2018, subject to availability. Cannot be combined with other offers. Cancellation policy applies.

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Get ready for schoolies p80 Spot a whale p62

Try a winter red at Aravina Estate p46 Let's go to Cowaramup p94

Casual dining options in Margaret River p14

Art in Boranup Forest p74 map key

Meet the lighthouse keeper p58

PICK UP YOUR MAP AT THE VISITOR CENTRE!!

Winter highlights

How to spend winter in your Margaret River region FIND THE LATEST EVENT LISTINGS AT MARGARETRIVER.COM/EVENTS

JUNE BAYSIDE TUNES

Tune in and drop out of the rat race over the long weekend as Jazz By The Bay returns to the region. Enjoy music across over 20 venues from Dunsborough to Busselton and Margaret River. Last year had a seriously impressive line-up, including performers from the Buena Vista Social Club, and this year’s event looks just as promising. It’s a great way too to enjoy the region’s food and wine venues while listening to international-standard live music. There are heaps of free events too if dollars are scarce. // Jazz By The Bay, various venues, June 1 to 4. Visit jazzbythebay.com.au.

RAINY DAY SAVIOURS

The newest and only games arcade in Margaret River, Game On and On, could be the answer to your prayers on a rainy afternoon. It provides state-of-the-art gaming technology with out-of-this-world hi-tech simulation platforms, Alongside old favourite arcade machines, it’s a dedicated entertainment hub located bang in the middle of Margaret River. Drop in any time - they’re open seven days a week. There’s even a virtual reality whale watching experience if the real thing would leave you seasick. // Game On and On, 1/111 Bussell Highway, Margaret River, open noon to 6pm every day. Visit gameonandon.com.au

Did you know . . . In south west WA, the Noongar seasonal calendar includes six different seasons in a yearly cycle. Each of the six seasons represents and explains the seasonal changes we see annually. The Noongar seasons can be long or short and are indicated by what is happening and changing around us rather than by dates on a calendar. This six-season calendar is extremely important to the Noongar people, as it is a guide to what nature is doing at every stage of the year, as well as understanding respect for the land in relation to plant and animal fertility cycles and land and animal preservation. In every issue of Your Margaret River Region magazine, we will introduce readers to the Aboriginal seasons for this time of the year. Makuru (June to July): Coldest and wettest time of the year; more frequent gales and storms. Cold and wet time of the year (fertility season) Traditionally, Makuru was a good time of the year to move back inland from the coast as the winds turned to the west and south bringing the cold weather, rains and occasionally snow on the peaks of the Stirling and Porongurup ranges. As the waterways and catchments started to fill, people were able to move about their country with ease and thus their food sources changed from sea, estuarine and lake foods to those of the lands, in particular the grazing animals such as the kangaroo. As well as a food source, animals provided people with many other things. For example, yongar or kangaroos, not only provided meat but also bookas (animal skin cloaks that were used as the nights became much cooler). Nothing was left; even the bones and sinews were used in the manufacturing of bookas and for hunting tools such as spears. Makuru is also a time for a lot of animals to be pairing up in preparation for breeding in the coming season. If you look carefully, you might now see pairs of wardongs (ravens) flying together. You also notice these pairs not making the usual ‘ark ark arrrrrk’ that these birds are well known for when flying solo. Upon the lakes and rivers of the south west, you’ll also start to see a large influx of the black swan or mali as they too prepare to nest and breed. Flowers that will start to emerge include the blues and purples of the blueberry lilly (Dianella revoluta) and the purple flags (Patersonia occidentalis). As the season comes to a close, you should also start to notice the white flowers of the

weeping peppermint (Agonis flexuosa) as the blues start to make way for the white and cream flowers of djilba. Djilba (August to September): Mixture of wet days with increasing number of clear, cold nights and pleasant warmer days. Growing season (season of conception) Djilba season is a time to look for the yellow and cream flowers starting on mass. Djilba is a transitional time of the year, with some very cold and clear days combining with warmer, rainy and windy days mixing with the occasional sunny day or two. This is the start of the massive flowering explosion that happens in the south west. This starts with the yellow flowering plants such as the acacias. Also colours that are around at this time of year are creams, combined with some vivid and striking blues. Traditionally, the main food sources included many of the land-based grazing animals, as in the season before. These included the yongar (kangaroo), the waitj (emu) and the koomal (possum). As the days start to warm up, we start to see and hear the first of the newborns with their proud parent out and about providing them food, guiding them through foraging tasks and protecting their family units from much bigger animals, including people. The woodland birds will still be nestbound, hence the swooping protective behaviour of the koolbardi (magpie) starts to ramp up and if watched closely, so to do the willern (willy wagtails) and the chuck-aluck (wattle birds). As the season progresses and the temperatures continue to rise, we’ll start to see the flower stalks of the balgas (grass trees) emerging in preparation for the coming Kambarang season. NAIDOC week runs from July 8 to July 15. Visit undalup.com for information

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Winter highlights

WINTER FOODIE FESTIVAL RETURNS

JULY MOO-VE TO COWARAMUP

It’s the family-friendly fair that brings everybody out onto the streets of one of the region’s cutest spots - Cowaramup. The Deja Moo Fair is udderly legendary, so pull on your onesie and join in the fun at the Legend Dairy Country Fair. // Deja Moo Fair, July 7, 9am to 2pm, Cowaramup Hall, Oval and Duggan Pavillion. Visit facebook.com/cowtowncows.

DIRTY WEEKEND

Fancy getting down and dirty in the Margaret River region? Then why not sign up for the South West Mudfest? It’s obstacle and mud racing and participants are promised a jampacked day full of mud, good times and family fun for all. And this time, even your fourlegged family member can join in. The Muddy Paws Challenge is a 5km + course, perfect for energetic pooch (from 1.30 to 2.30pm). // South West Mudfest, July 7, 8am to 5pm, Bootleg Brewery, corner Johnson and Puzey Roads, Margaret River. Visit mudfest.com.au/ southwest

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Put a hold on hibernation and visit the Margaret River region for as much quality wine, seam-splitting comfort food, fireside brews and general good times as your body can handle. Experience chocolate, cheese and coffee appreciation, wine

dinners, degustation menus, bonfires, brews, live music and more. Cabin Fever was a huge hit last year, and this year’s promises to be even better. Not to be missed. // Cabin Fever Festival, July 13 to 22, various locations. For the full line-up of events, visit cabinfeverfest.com.au

Building on the success of the Cape Lodge cooking class and long table lunch calendar, Cape Lodge have decided to take things a step further, and crank up the intensity a little by launching a series of Culinary Boot Camps. Rest assured, the Cape Lodge version of boot camp will involve numerous food and drink rewards for good behaviour, strictly no 6am starts, and the pleasure of sleeping in 5-star luxury rather than bunk beds. Having said that, this is not a camp for the faint-hearted. Resident Sergeant Major, chef Tony Howell, and his kitchen brigade will push you to your culinary best, offering expert tuition in the complex realms of fish, shellfish and meat cookery, pastry, emulsions and desserts. You will leave the camp with honed knife skills, and a proud sense of achievement. “Our boot camps promise to cover a variety of topics and areas of culinary interest,” says Cape Lodge’s general manager Drew Bernhardt. “From the essential skills building of basic training (designed to develop good foundational kitchen techniques) to more

ENDURO THRILLS

Saddle up for the WA Gravity Enduro series, round five, and challenge yourself on the Meelup Trails of Dunsborough. Competitors will embark on a fun, multiple-attempt gravity enduro course with five special stages. // WA Gravity Enduro Series Round 5, July 28, 2pm to 4pm and July 29, 8am to 2pm, Dunsborough and Districts Country Club. Visit wagravityenduro.org.

/... continued over

GOODGOOD TIMES • LONG • FUNCTIONS TIMES • LONGLUNCHES LUNCHES • FUNCTIONS WEDDINGS • ROMANTIC GETAWAYS

CAVES HOUSE HOTEL is ideally situated in the heart of the famous Margaret River Wine Region, and within walking distance of the famous Yallingup Beach. Winter is synonymous with cosy fireplaces, mulled wine, long lunches or dinners or romantic getaways.

IMAGE Henderson Photographics

Come and experience our NEW WINTER MENU, beautiful accommodation, as well as our famous HIGH TEAS.

18 Yallingup Beach Rd, Yallingup Ph: 9750 1888 A/H: 9750 1830 caveshousehotelyallingup.com.au margaretriver.com | WINTER 2018 11

Winter highlights /... from p11

specific and in-depth experiences such as Boot Camp Fish or Boot Camp Bread, there is sure to be something for all cooking enthusiasts looking for a challenge.” The inaugural Basic Training 1 Day Boot Camp launches on July 28 and includes welcome tea, coffee and pastries, basic knife skills and care, vegetable cookery session, seafood and shellfish selection preparation and handling, meat cookery- different cuts and preparations, the art of a perfect pastry class and a late lunch with your fellow bootcampers. // The cost is $395 per person. Special accommodation rates are also available. Contact stay@capelodge.com.au for bookings and further information.

AUGUST SILVER SCREEN KINGS AND QUEENS

The richest film festival in Australia returns to the region. Cinefest OZ promises premiere films and events in the region’s cinemas, wineries, small bars and galleries. Spread over five days, it’s a real treat for movie buffs, culminating in the $100,000 CinefestOZ Film Prize, which last year attracted record entries of Australian features and documentaries (Ali’s Wedding was presented with the CinefestOZ Film Prize in 2017). // CinefestOz, August 22 to 26, various venues. Visit cinefestoz.com

PEDAL POWER

Busselton will again play host to a sixhour race on the magnificent foreshore of Geographe Bay. The 850-metre circuit is technical, demanding and, by all accounts, a lot of fun. // Pedal Prix WA, August 18 to 19, 10am to 4pm, Busselton Foreshore (car park, west of Equinox Cafe). Visit pedalprix.com.au

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REST, RELAX, RECONNECT Romantic, secluded, self contained chalets with candlelit sky-view spas, kingsize double beds and tranquil forest outlooks, on 240 acres of natural beauty.

// 22nd Annual Gracetown Grommets, Gracetown Bay, September 15 or 16 (tbc), 7.30am to 4.30pm. Visit cowbay.com.au

SEPTEMBER SAFE HARBOUR

The whole region looks to the sea, whether it’s for those maritime breezes which contribute to the success of so many wineries, or the amazing spectacle of migrating whales passing the shoreline. To celebrate this close relationship, the Port Geographe Blessing of the Fleet and Whale Festival is sure to be a wonderful event. Many believe that this will be the best ever whale watching season, so come along and enjoy the market stalls, live music, decorated boats and much more. // Port Geographe Blessing of the Fleet and Whale Festival, Port Geographe Marina, September 15. Visit portgeographemarina. com.au

Don’t forget - the Margaret River

Farmers Market is open every Saturday from 8am to noon. // Visit margaretriverfarmersmarket. com.au for info.

SURF’S UP

Catch the next generation of surfing legends in action at the 22nd annual Gracetown Grommets. This popular and historic junior surf comp is held annually in Gracetown Bay in memory of the nine lives lost in the Gracetown tragedy.

231 Yelverton Road, Yelverton Margaret River Wine Region Phone (08) 9755 7110 or email reception@forestrise.com.au

R E ST, R E L AX, R ECO NNEC T Romantic, secluded, self contained chalets with candlelit sky-view spas, Kingsize

double beds and tranquil forest outlooks, on 240 acres of natural beauty.

231 Yelverton Road, Yelverton Margaret River Wine Region Phone (08) 9755 7110 or email reception@forestrise.com.au

WWW.FORESTRISE.COM.AU

Eat & Drink

casual KEEPING IT

SOMETIMES YOU DON’T WANT A FANCY SCHMANCY DINING EXPERIENCE; SOMETIMES, ONLY CASUAL WILL DO. CASSANDRA CHARLICK GOES IN SEARCH OF A NO-FUSS FEED. PHOTOS BY BY BIANCA TURRI 14

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ummer undoubtedly has its perks; sultry, alfresco evenings, sun-soaked days for long lunches and warm nights that lead into a glamourous cocktail hour through to latenight bar hopping. Let’s be honest though, when the rainy days hit and the cool weather is here to stay, a whole different type of weekend is called for. The winter wardrobe is unpacked and we all breathe a sigh of relief. Pull on your favourite cardie, relax and curl up at one of these casual dining options when feasting in comfort is the name of the game. Margaret River has seen several new openings over the past few months that have firmly established themselves as favourites for both locals and visitors alike. Be sure to book ahead for a meal at Pizzica, the most authentic Italian pizzeria and grill experience you will find in the south west. Heck, I’d even go so far as to say all of Western Australia. Owners Ivan and Anna have a deep-rooted passion for bringing their Italian

You’re invited

BEHIND THE SCENES

DOING IT RIGHT Right, Pizzica's owners, Ivan, Anna and bub have brought an authentic taste of Italy to the heart of Margaret River. Left, Snatchdogs are reinventing the humble hot dog.

IMAGE BIANCCA TURRI

heritage to the forefront and sharing it with the community. “Sometimes in Italy, you find a hidden spot in a town and you feel that warmth of home. We call them osterias. We wanted to get that feeling at Pizzica. It’s underground, in one of the oldest buildings in Margaret River, and everything is cooked using traditional Italian methods. Even our beautiful terracotta plates and jugs are hand made in a little place in the south of Italy.” The menu includes a range of wood-fired pizzas, grilled meats and sausages made with only the best ingredients; pizza flour from Italy through to the freshest produce from local suppliers. All dishes are cooked in the woodfired oven - you won’t find any use for a stove in this kitchen. Perfect for a winter retreat, whisk yourself off to the heart of Italy for one night (or more) in this rustic little Mediterranean escape on the main street of Margaret River. A little further up the hill and you will find another of Margaret River’s popular new

additions. Burger Baby is the new permanent home for burger master Alex Scott whose previous venture, the Margaret River Burger Co, had diners following his food truck throughout the state. With a range of burgers on the everevolving menu, there is bound to be something for even the fussiest of tastes. Burger lovers will be spoilt for choice from the classics such as the beef burger to the vegetarian lentil burger. I’d recommend stretching towards one of the more adventurous options such as a pork belly burger with five spice, caramelised onions and slaw, or a melt-in-your-mouth pulled lamb burger with picked beetroot and harissa. Wash down the burger-fest with one of the large range of local beers on tap and in can, or a glass of hearty red wine. Sweet toothed individuals should leave room for dessert with a dessert ‘burger’ – lamington burgers with ice-cream and other goodies available in chocolate or raspberry. Scott jumps out of the kitchen for a few minutes to chat.

or book online at www.capementelle.com.au

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Eat & Drink

GOOD FOOD, GOOD TIMES It's possible to eat extremely well without breaking the budget in the Margaret River region.

IMAGE BIANCCA TURRI

“Burger Baby has quickly become the destination for big groups and families with plenty of large tables and fast service. Our epic collection of games will keep all ages occupied. We love winter too,” he says. “We have three fireplaces.” Regularly hosting DJs, live music and tap takeovers, be sure to check out their Facebook page for the latest event updates. Fridays are quickly becoming a regular staple for the diary. Chow’s Table is the newest kid on the block at the northern end of the region, and has had

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Margaret River/ Augusta/Cowaramup SETTLERS TAVERN – The seasoned pro at casual dining. Warm up by the fireplace and enjoy a hearty meal from their wellloved menu and extensive wine list. THE BREWHOUSE – The first stop in town. Kids will love the playground while parents and friends are always keen to sample the brews and reliable menu. THE RIVER – Jump into one of the restaurant booths out the front or head towards the back for a Sunday sesh. A classic pub menu with Asian and Middle Eastern influences and international twists on favourites. KATCH-UP – Seafood delights at the top of town in Margaret River. MIKI'S OPEN KITCHEN – One of the gems of Margaret River, Miki makes magical Japanese dishes which never fail to delight, made all the more enjoyable thanks to the open kitchen format. AUGUSTA HOTEL – Casual dining down in the southern most point of the region. GLENARTY ROAD – The epitome of relaxed dining and holding the trophy for produce-to-plate dining in Karridale. CAFÉ BORANUP – Open for breakfast and lunch 7 days a week. You won’t go hungry with their generous servings in the tranquil surroundings of Boranup Forest. SQUID LIPS– craving some fish and chips? Squid Lips more than delivers on this and other fishy treats. FISHBONE – Sushi devotees, this is for you. Relax with a glass of wine and Fishbone’s Asian-inspired menu. OLIO BELLO – BYO and some of the freshest local produce on your plate. With a range of different options, the Italianfocused menu has pizzas and pastas along

locals eagerly awaiting the opening of head chef Mal Chow’s venture since construction began. One of the region’s most highly regarded chefs, Chow honed his skills in some of Australia’s top restaurants including Vue De Monde in Melbourne, Tetsuya’s in Sydney and most recently he could be found leading the kitchen at Studio Bistro in Yallingup. Nestled among the vines in the House of Cards estate, the views are spectacular. And the food? Well, the food is worth a journey to the region alone. A modern twist on traditional Chinese/

with a range of other hearty meals to enjoy in their heated alfresco dining surrounds. Try the gluten free pasta option – zucchini never tasted so good. THE COMMON – Perfect for a bite to eat and a brew after a day at the beach. A hop, skip and a jump from Prevelly beach. Relax by the fire and warm up with some tasty fare from head chef Sean Carter.

Busselton/Dunsborough/ Yallingup CLANCY’S – A popular spot in the region for good reason! A regularly changing list of good wine and beers on tap. Casual dining for the whole family and the recent addition of Mala Dumplings to the menu for those in need of a dumpling fix fast! AL FORNO – Busselton’s hidden secret. Amazing comfort food all cooked on site and with a strong Italian focus. Be sure to leave room for dessert. PEKO PEKO – Sushi and Vietnamese inspired wraps at this fresh and tasty option in Dunsborough. AMELIA PARK TAVERN – Recently opened and perfect for a day with the family. Let the kids play on the extensive lawns and enjoy some shared food along with a cheeky cocktail from the bar. CAVES HOUSE HOTEL – One of the region's oldest and most loved venues. Stay the night at the hotel and indulge in a bottle of local wine with a tasty meal by one of their many fireplaces. There’s live music throughout the week too. THE GOOSE – Beachside views and good food in the heart of Busselton. What’s not to love? SWINGS AND ROUNDABOUTS – Woodfired pizza with rolling vineyard views and live music on Sundays.

Malay cuisine, his menu harks back to childhood favourites and draws on the style of cooking he was brought up with by his mother, a fabulous cook in her own right. “The ethos of Chow’s Table is affordable tasty food. It’s food that I cook at home and that my family and friends love to eat, says Mal. It’s food you share when the company is good, the conversation is flowing and above all the laughter is contagious. It is food that will make your senses go wild.” Be prepared for large and small sharing plates of juicy roast meats, fried wantons, comforting soups, spicy

BUNKER DOWN FOR

r e t n i W

DELICIOUS SEASONAL BREAKFAST AND LUNCH MENUS

IT’S FOOD YOU SHARE WHEN THE COMPANY IS GOOD, THE CONVERSATION IS FLOWING AND ABOVE ALL THE LAUGHTER IS CONTAGIOUS vegies and a menu of mouth-watering dishes that pack a punch of flavour into every bite. Perfect to warm both bellies and hearts in the depths of winter, there is also a take-away option for those that prefer the ultimate in casual dining at home. Dunsborough has two new additions to the relaxed dining approach. Blue Manna Bistro offers a seafood smorgasbord of options. A family-orientated and Asian-influenced restaurant, fresh seafood is the focus and the surrounds under the peppermint trees are conducive to a lazy day of creature comforts. If you're dining in the restaurant, the menu includes dishes such as seared Shark Bay scallops, salt and pepper blue manna crab and crispy whole fish. However, it’s the takeaway options that we love for winter feasting on – either at home or rugged up by the beach nearby. The freshest fish and chips in town, a hearty seafood chowder, healthy sashimi and poke bowls are the order of the day. Grab a bottle of wine or a crisp ale and you have a match made in heaven. Pop over the road and a very different offering is on the table with Snatchdogs. Hot dogs you say? Well, these are no ordinary hot dogs. Opening its doors in December 2017, owners Nick and Mermaid have been running their own cafés since 2005. Moving to Dunsborough from Fremantle

three years ago, they researched the needs of the town carefully and saw a gap in the market in the casual dining offerings provided. Stepping away from the café scene, their unique hot dogs and bao buns offering has proved to be exactly what was needed with a steady stream of customers knocking on the door daily. It’s not just the food – everything from aprons to pot plants is available to buy thanks to the styling of Mermaid, whose expertise is in customer service and fitting out the design of the shopfront. In the kitchen, Nick has been a chef for over 25 years and it shows; hipster hotdogs with names such as unicorn, hippogriff, werewolf and merman are juicy and include ingredients such as authentic bratwurst, pork sausage, battered fish and accompaniments such as kimchi, saukraut, fennel apple slaw and picked daikon carrot. Three serves per order of the bao buns are bound to have you returning for seconds with roast pork belly and panko battered prawns served alongside vegan creations that are tempting enough to turn even the most dedicated carnivore. Try the phoenix – a light as air bao bun with hoi sin pulled jackfruit, cucumber, coriander, picked carrot daikon and vegan mayo. Serving lunch and dinner seven days a week, along with some of the best sweet potato fries in town, it’s not going to be long until this menu has been sampled several times over. BOOK NOW AT

BUNKERSBEACHOUSE.COM.AU 08 9756 8284

Eat & Drink

OFF THE SHELF THUMBING THROUGH A GREAT COOKBOOK IS BOTH COMFORTING AND INSPIRING. DIANNE BORTOLETTO SITS DOWN WITH COBY COCKBURN, OWNER AND CHEF AT DUNSBOROUGH’S BLUE MANNA BISTRO, TO CHAT ABOUT LIFE IN MARGS AND HIS FAVOURITE CULINARY TOMES.

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lue Manna Bistro opened last December and Coby Cockburn hasn’t looked back since. It’s booked out more often than not and has a stellar reputation around town. Coby has pedigree in the kitchen too. He’s been the private chef for Keanu Reeves and 40 of his friends, he’s cooked for Al Gore and Tiger Woods and worked in some exclusive places including luxury resorts on Bedarra Island and Lizard Island and as head chef at notable eateries Watergate in Port Douglas and the nearby Thala Beach Lodge.

Blue Manna Bistro specialises in, you guessed it, Blue Manna crab and seafood cooked with an Asian influence. The Asian influence comes from Coby’s training in far north Queensland where there were lots of Japanese and Koreans doing trade, under an English chef who had a passion for Asian cuisine, as well as his own travels through Thailand and Indonesia. “I’s so hot up there that you don’t want to eat food with heavy sauces, you want light, fresh food and Asian-style food is ideal for that,” Coby said. “Every day was either hot or too hot there. I really enjoy the four seasons we have in the Margaret River region,” the 37-year-old said. Coby first visited Margaret River in 2003 when he was working his way around Australia. He stayed for two-and-half years but then had to return to Queensland for family reasons. “I loved the region as soon as I arrived and decided that it was where I wanted to live, so it was fantastic to make that a reality eight years ago,” Coby said. “I love the laid-back lifestyle, the good produce, the seasons, the wine, fishing and the people here. It’s a great place to live.” He ran Palmer Wines for six years to great acclaim, all the while keeping an eye out for the right opportunity to open his own place. “Opening my own restaurant had always been a dream of mine and I had been looking for many years for the right place and the right opportunity.” With winter upon us, Coby said that Blue Manna’s menu would adapt to the cooler weather and include heartier and warming dishes like chowder, bisque, laksa and curry, all with an Asian twist. Visit bluemannabistro.com.au

Coby’s favourite cookbooks

Nobu The Cookbook by Nobuyuki Matsuhisa. Japanese food is one of my favourite cuisines. This book is full of beautiful food done simply and all the dressings are banging with flavour and really nice. I’ve had it since it was published almost 20 years ago, I know it pretty much off by heart now. I use a lot of his recipes as a base and play around and make it my own.

Martin Boetz started share eating in Australia. His menu was designed to share and he was one of the first to be doing that in Australia. My menu is all designed for sharing, entrees in particular, and a lot of people come in and order a bunch of entrées to share.

Spice by Christine Manfield. It’s all about spices, cooking with spices, the effects they have on your body and your mouth. The thing I learnt when I first read it was that chilli gets your endorphins going and that’s why people crave it. The more chilli you eat the more you want. I’ve had this book for 15 years and I know a lot of her recipes off the top of my head now.

The French Laundry by Thomas Keller. It’s a beautiful book. I’ve had it forever, about 20 years. What I like about it is that it talks about different processes and about loving food. It’s filled with stunning photos and has a nice hard cover. It’s the first cookbook I actually read, not just flicked through. I read his story, concepts on food and thoughts on everything. That’s what I really enjoyed about this book. It’s the one book I’d take with me if I could only choose one.

Longrain: Modern Thai Food by Martin Boetz. Longrain in Sydney is my favourite restaurant. The first time I ate there was around 2003 and it blew my mind, it’s awesome. I already had the book before that first visit. Thai food is amazing and it’s light and summery. I’m from North Queensland and grew up surrounded by food like that. I love everything about this book;

Spirit House, The Cookbook by Helen Brierty and Annette Fear. The Spirit House is a fantastic Thai restaurant in the hills of the sunshine coast in Queensland. They have a cooking school there too and grow everything on site.You make your own curry pastes and everything from scratch. It’s very traditional in style and I love how fresh all the produce there is.

1/16 Cyrillean Way, Dunsborough. (08) 9786 5051 - open daily noon to 11pm

Jahroc Galleries is situated in the hear t of Margaret River and is the largest contemporar y galler y in the South West showcasing a diverse range of Fine Furniture, Fine Ar t, Jeweller y, Glass, Ceramic and Sculpture. It is home to award winning furniture designers/ makers JahRoc Furniture who use local specialty timbers to hand craft their bespoke designer furniture. Visit Jahroc Galleries and f ind out why all that do, leave inspired.

Open daily 10am-5pm 83 Bussell Highway, Margaret River Ph. (08) 9758 7200 E. info@jahroc.com.au margaretriver.com | WINTER 2018 19

www.jahroc.com.au

Eat & Drink

Special... Book for 3 nights and only pay for 2.* Situated on a secluded beach in the heart of the Margaret River wine region, Injidup Spa Retreat features 10 luxurious villas, each with a private plunge pool and stunning ocean views.

31 Cape Clairault Road, Yallingup 6282, WA 20

(08) 9750 1300 | stay@injidupsparetreat.net.au | www.injidupsparetreat.com.au

WINTER 2018

*Valid 4th June to 20th September.

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Perth’s multi-award winning day spas extends its exquisite offerings to the Margaret River wine region with Bodhi J @ Injidup Spa Retreat. An eco-luxe spa experience, with the most breathtaking views.

Perth | Highgate 08 9466 8260 • The Westin | Perth 08 6559 1818 • Wembley 08 9387 5152 • Yallingup | Injidup 08 9750 1300 • www.bodhij.com.au margaretriver.com

WINTER 2018

Eat & Drink

Holidays are glorious and for some people, enjoying a few days or weeks in the Margaret River region isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t enough; they want the holiday to become their everyday. Dianne Bortoletto uncovers three real-life stories of turning a holiday into a new place to call home.

Planting roots

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VISIT US IN TOWN

OR AT THE VINEYARD YALLINGUP YALLINGUP

CELLAR & CELLAR DOOR DOOR & RESTAURANT RESTAURANT BREATHTAKING BUSHLAND AND VINEYARD VIEWS

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Duncan Timmons

Owner of Goanna Bush Café DUNCAN TIMMONS SPENT four months of his gap year working on a farm in Margaret River and dreamt of returning ever since. Originally from Edinburgh, he spent two years working in Michelin-starred restaurants in London and thought that life had to be better than working 80 hours per week. “I have to say that when we bought the café and moved to Dunsborough, we didn’t work any less!” said Duncan. His father emmigrated to Margaret River in 2006. The following year, Duncan and his girlfriend Ali flew to Western Australia for a weekend to look at the Goanna Bush Café that was up for lease. “We were in our 20s and didn’t have any ties so flying from London to Perth and then driving to Dunsborough for a weekend didn’t seem that crazy to us back then,” he said. “It wasn’t the lifestyle as such that motivated us to move here, it was more the opportunity to be in a growing region that had a lot going on. There was a lot of investment in the region and new businesses opening up. Plus it was more accessible for us to open a business in Dunsborough than it was in London.”

CELLAR DOOR & RESTAURANT

Ten years later, Duncan and Ali have well and truly found their groove with Goanna Bush Café, their mantra being ‘local food, local artists’. They also have a young family with three children under six years old. “While we’re not working 80 hours a week anymore, life isn’t less busy,” Duncan said. “Our ethos is to support the local community and we do this by using local ingredients. “At the same time, we are a casual café so we have to keep the price point accessible, so instead of using a prime cut of meat, we might use a cheaper cut but we’ll be creative with it. “Things have changed in the last 10 years – nowadays we have both local suppliers and farmers knocking on our door showing us what they’ve produced and giving us tips on how to use them, which is really great. “Our place is laid back, casual and friendly – kids can run wild outside and everything inside, from the back door to the front, is Australian made. It doesn’t make sense to visit Australia and leave with a souvenir made in China.” Duncan said that on a rare day off they like to go to the beach, go to the bush or spend time together at home. “It took us a while to discover everything the region offers and we love living here – the people are friendly and there’s a real community mindset.”

2807 CAVES RD, YALLINGUP WA +61 8 9756 6640 • ADMIN@SWINGS.COM.AU

FIND US BREATHTAKING BUSHL AND MARGARET RIVER VINEYARD VIEWS 2807 CAVES RD, AND YALLINGUP WA CANAL ROCKS ROAD

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+61 8 9756 6640 ADMIN@SWINGS.COM.AU

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FOR ALL FURTHER INFO VISIT SWINGS.COM.AU

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| WINTER 2018 23 FIND US @SWINGROUND /SWINGSANDROUNDABOUTS

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HIGGINS STREET

BUSSELL HIGHWAY

85 BUSSELL HWY, MARGARET RIVER WA

To Busselton

Eat & Drink Herbert Heiss

Owner of Katch-Up Seafood and Grill IT WAS ON their honeymoon in 2013 that Bavarian Herbert Heiss, a holistic dentist, and his Swiss bride bought a restaurant at the top of the hill on Margaret River’s main street. “A good husband should remember the date easily – we were married on 12/12/2012,” said Herbert, who is originally from Munich. “Australia was on our bucket list – it was a dream to come to Australia. My wife is a wine expert so we landed in Perth and went to Margaret River. We went from one wine region to the next, stopping in Adelaide, Melbourne and Sydney. “In Margaret River, we loved the welcoming people and the pristine environment with stunning beaches. It’s also quite a multicultural place and we instantly loved it and decided we wanted to relocate here. “It took us about a year of going back and forth between Europe and Margaret River – my wife sold her wine import business and I sold my dentistry practice,” Herbert said. Curious, I had to ask Herbert what motivates a dentist to become a restaurateur. “Well, Australia doesn’t accept the German licence for dentistry and I was just about to turn 60, and so on the threshold for age. We applied for a business owner visa, which required us to buy a franchise or a business with which we had to achieve a certain turnover and employ a certain amount of staff and the rest is history!

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“The produce available here is absolutely gorgeous. Every Saturday we go to the farmers markets and they have the best selection of cheeses, fresh meats and fresh vegetables. We get our seafood locally, but also sometimes from Sealanes because fisherman can’t always go out when the weather is bad. We try to source local produce as much as possible. “On the wine list is mostly Margaret River wines with some other Western Australian and Australian wines, some NZ, some Italian and some French – I mean champagne isn't a privilege only for the French. “We are really proud about the high standards of our cuisine and we are really blessed with our staff. We have a lot of returning customers from Perth to Augusta and even from over east.” Katch-Up is the only seafood restaurant

in Margaret River and has a Certificate of Excellence from TripAdvisor in 2015 and the Readers Choice Awards from the Australian Good Food and Travel Guide for Seafood in 2017 and for European Cuisine in 2018. When asked how he spends a day off, Herbert said that he likes to enjoy the hospitality of others and go mountain bike riding. “We enjoy some great food and wine at a winery, go on a bit of a wine tour or go to the beach. I’ll admit that our favourite winery is Vasse Felix,” Herbert said. “In fact, on our very first evening in Margaret River, we met Virginia Willcock [wine maker at Vasse Felix], and my wife and her became instant friends. We came very close to buying her husband’s restaurant, but we were too late.” That didn’t deter Herbert – soon after they bought what is now known as Katch-Up Seafood Restaurant. “I love living here. There’s so much space and tranquillity and the nature is pristine.You can’t experience that in Europe where living is much more compact,” he said. “I’ve got good friends here and I’ve good friends in Europe. We go back in the winter to see them, but I always love to come back to Margaret River. I have just applied for Australian citizenship and hope to spend the rest of my life in Margaret River.”

Dario Sirotti

Sales co-ordinator at Cullen Wines FOR 31-YEAR-OLD Italian Dario Sirotti, the beauty of the region was what enticed him to call Margaret River home. “I’m originally from Rimini on the Adriatic Coast but actually I’m Australian now, since 2014,” Dario said with a smile. “My first time to Margaret River was in 2009 when I was travelling around Australia. I first lived in Port Douglas - I was sponsored by a restaurant there and then relocated to Brisbane. “I returned to Margaret River to work at Cullen Wines and never left. What always strikes me is how unique it is in terms of landscape, it’s one of the most beautiful places in the world. “There is no other wine region in the world that has such a unique environment, that is so close to the ocean and that is so pristine. It’s a wine region on a beautiful coast.

“I love living here. One of the things I love is the sense of freedom you have.You can take a four-wheel-drive track to a beach and be the only people there. I love getting into the ocean and free diving to catch some crayfish – it’s amazing that the crays are sometimes just a couple of metres deep. “The Cape to Cape track is fantastic, it’s an amazing experience. I took my mum when she visited and she loved it. It gives you a good understanding of the region.You really get a sense of freedom on the track and the coastline is just so pure and beautiful. “There are a lot of Italians in the region, they seem to be attracted to beautiful places and of course they love food and wine, so I think that’s why there are lots of Italians living in Margaret River.” Two months ago, Dario bought a house and he has recently become a father with his partner. Each year, they escape the winter and spend a month in Italy with family.

Eat & Drink

Everybody say

‘cheese’! By JANINE PITTAWAY Images TIM CAMPBELL

Margaret River Dairy Company has set a new GUINNESS WORLD RECORDS™ title.

he Margaret River Dairy Company is now a Guinness World Records titleholder for the largest cheese-tasting event at a single location. The dairy was overwhelmed with the response it had to a call out for cheese lovers to join in the attempt on February 25 at their dairy and tasting room in Metricup. Margaret River Dairy Company head cheesemaker and production manager Thiago Bacellar said it was a huge buzz for him and his team to see so many people tasting three of their most popular cheeses in unison. “The population of Metricup is around 200

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– made up mainly of dairy farms and wineries, – so to have 560 people join us was quite an achievement! “We do cheese-tastings for visitors to the region on a daily basis but to see the quantity we had for the record attempt was incredible. It shows you how many people truly love cheese. “We had to set up a special area outdoors for the largest cheese-tasting event because we couldn’t fit them all in the tasting room, and then a formal process was required to adhere to the rules set by Guinness World Records. “We had an official adjudicator and witnesses to ensure the tasting went to plan. I described

CHEESY GRINS The Margaret River Dairy Company set a new Guinness World Record in February for the most people attending a cheese-tasting event in a single location - 560 in fact.

each of the cheeses to the tasters and they were then invited to eat and rate the cheese, starting with our farmhouse cheese, followed by original cheddar and finally the original brie.” Brian Sobel is one of three Guinness World Records adjudicators based in Australia and was on-site to make the official record announcement. “It was great to be back in WA and the Margaret River region – I love mass participation events,” Brian said. “The team efforts are great to witness when there’s been a lot of people involved both in the preparation for the event and the attempt itself.

“That’s what Guinness World Records is all about, seeing attempts happen around the world that bring people together on a large scale. “Congratulations to Thiago and the Margaret River Dairy Company team, and all the cheese-tasters for making it happen and being the title holders for this new Guinness World Records title.” The official record was measured by the number of people attending a cheese-tasting event at a single location and the minimum number to beat was 250 people. It took approximately 20 minutes for the official tasting and another 10 minutes for adjudication. Margaret River Dairy Company marketing and brand manager Lucy Neal said they has been a buzz of excitement around the dairy from visitors since the record was set. “We have a large banner recognising the title and visitors love to have their photo taken with it,” she said. “We’ve had brilliant feedback and there’s been a lift in visitor numbers as well to the tasting room.” Margaret River Dairy company’s 50 staff produce 60 tonnes of cheese each year, and 520 tonnes of yoghurt. They make 38 different types of hard and soft cheese on site from their dairy and production facility on Bussell Highway.Visitors can enjoy free cheese and yoghurt tastings, order coffee, milkshakes, and ice cream, and purchase picnic hampers, gifts and more.Visit margaretriverdairy.com.au or follow them on Facebook and Instagram. margaretriver.com

WINTER 2018

Eat & Drink

Field trip Foodie day-trips are something to consider if you’ve got the time to explore beyond the Margaret River region. By DIANNE BORTOLETTO.

WINTER 2018

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inter conjures images of cosy fires, red wine and hearty food but I think the best thing about winter is that it’s truffle season. Take a day trip to Manjimup, the heart of Australian Truffle country, to indulge in this prized delicacy and you'll discover an amazing food bowl. Manjimup is nestled among hundreds of hectares of national park and is the centre of a diverse, thriving fruit and vegetable industry. Local growers produce everything from avocados, cherries, plums and kiwi fruit to hazelnuts, broccoli and potatoes. It is renowned for the internationally famous Pink Lady apple and is home to world-class gourmet black truffles.

What are black truffles? The black truffle (Tuber melanosporum) is prized for its rarity and beguiling aroma. More than 80 per cent of premium black truffles produced in Australia come from the Southern Forests. As the largest producer in the southern hemisphere, the region has secured its place on the global culinary map. The black truffle retails for $2,000 per kilogram – no wonder they are referred to as ‘black gold’! Their taste and aroma are quite tricky to describe but some liken them to ‘gourmet mushrooms’. They have pungent, intense, earthy, unique characters and are used in extremely

BRUNO LOUBERT

MARIANNE LUMB

small quantities in cooking. The Australian truffle season runs from June to September with an annual event held in Manjimup in June to kick it off. The popular event brings people together from all over the world to showcase the region’s export-quality rare black winter truffles.

Don’t miss Truffle Kerfuffle, June 22 to 24 Truffle Kerfuffle is one of Australia’s most unique food and wine festivals. Pack your boots and rug up as you prepare to go truffle hunting and uncover an amazing festival of food and wine in the heart of Australian truffle country; Manjimup, Western Australia.You'll be in good company, since this is the epicentre of truffle production in the southern hemisphere. Uncover an amazing weekend of food and wine in this hands-on and adventurous winter festival. Get to know the truffle dogs, visit the festival village for a taste of the region and get your truffle fix at exclusive dining and masterclass events. Headlining names in the mix with top West Australian chefs include Guy Grossi, Mark Best, Sam Aisbett, Scott Brannigan, Marianne Lumb and Bruno Loubet. Co-festival director and food journalist Max Brearley said that the chefs announced in the Truffle Kerfuffle line-up are united by their love of and expertise in using fresh truffles. “The talent this year is amazing - from London to Singapore, Sydney to Melbourne, these chefs are all experts in using Manjimup’s finest export,” Max said. Melbourne-based chef, Guy Grossi, renowned for his iconic Italian eateries and new Perth hotsput Garum will bring a taste of Rome to Manjimup. Guy will be kicking off this year’s festival with Feast & Fire on June 22, a long table celebration of the truffle season. Discover the winemakers, producers and community or of course you can just soak up the atmosphere.

Hot tickets: Hunter’s Breakfast, 10am June 23 and June 24 A Winter’s Night, 7pm, June 23

GUY GROSSI

MARK BEST

Chef’s Cabin Series, June 23 – June 24 Festival Village, June 23 and 24 For more information and tickets visit trufflekerfuffle. com.au

Truffle Experience If you can’t make the Truffle Kerfuffle, visit the Truffle & Wine Co this winter and book into a two-hour Truffle Experience for $99 that includes tastings and a guided truffle hunt.Visit truffleandwine.com.au for more information.

SAM AISBETT

SCOTT BRANNIGAN

Getting there The Southern Forests is a scenic 90-minute drive from Margaret River. The journey is just as nice as the destination with undulating landscape, a mix of ancient Karri forests, rivers and farmland, bordered by the Southern Ocean.

Eat your way around the Southern Forests It’s home to over 50 different types of fruits and vegetables, truffles, nuts, wine, gourmet products, beef, sheep and dairy farms as well as extraordinary culinary experiences to tempt your tastebuds - but it's one of the least known regions in the south west. The Southern Forests' climate and environmental influences allow farmers and producers to grow crops during the warmer summer months, advantageously contraseasonal to many other food producing regions. Responsible for producing a much wider variety of produce than other regions, the Southern Forests produces 50 per cent of Western Australia’s apples, 70 per cent of Australia’s avocadoes (October to midFebruary), 90 per cent of Western Australia’s broccoli crop (mid December to mid May), 85 per cent of the Southern Hemisphere’s black truffle harvest, and almost all of Western Australia’s marron production. The Southern Forest Food Council is charged with promoting the high quality produce that comes from the area. It represents local producers, culinary and agri-tourism operators who live and work in in the region, with a goal to ultimately establish the Southern Forests region as an internationally-recognised top culinary tourism destination. There’s a four-day Food and Farm all-inclusive tour providing visitors with a unique opportunity to meet genuine farmers in the pristine Southern Forests of Western Australia and truly experience where good food comes from. For more information, visit southernforestsfood.com/ foodandfarmtours

Pemberton Spend a day on board a tour with Pemberton Discovery Tours whose mission is to ensure everyone who visits the area discovers the area’s beautiful and magnificent country and to promote ‘The Best is OFF the Highway!’. There are three tours that include a 4WD beach and forest eco-adventure tour, Point Black eco adventure, and a wine discovery tour. Australian Truffle Trades also offer tours. margaretriver.com

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Eat & Drink

Food of the

gods

When two blokes who shared an obsession for all things sweet teamed up to build a chocolate factory in the Margaret River region, it truly was a match made in heaven. By DANIELLE COSTLEY. PORTRAITS BY CRIB CREATIVE.

he tantalising aroma of freshly made chocolate wafts towards me as I enter the Margaret River Chocolate Company. I am literally surrounded by row upon row of glorious chocolate and, in the corner of the factory, I glimpse some chocolaterie mastery at work. I move in that direction, but am distracted by three large bowls of chocolate heaven waiting to be devoured. It is the toughest of choices – milk, white or dark chocolate. Feeling a trifle indulgent, I decide to try all three. It is in the name of research, after all. This fascination with the bewitchingly tempting chocolate brought Martin Black and Patrick Coward together nearly 20 years ago when they decided to start a ‘small’ chocolate

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enterprise in the Margaret River region. They thought it would create a good sideline business, providing a lifestyle split between Perth and the south west.

Humble beginnings It all began in a small shed on a property in Metricup with a handful of staff and rookie owners who knew nothing about making chocolate. But I am told they had many years experience as enthusiastic ‘taste testers’. “There weren’t any other chocolateries in the region at that time. Our plan was to work casually in the business, master the art of chocolatemaking and take the odd trip to Margaret River to oversee production,” Martin says. “We hired a chocolatier and learnt everything

about the industry from the ground up. Now we train all our chocolatiers, many of whom join us with chef backgrounds.” But the lads weren’t prepared for the factory’s sudden popularity. They had to adapt quickly to meet public demand and ramped up production from small-batch to large-scale production in a short period of time. To say it was overwhelming was an understatement. “The new equipment we purchased to meet our growing production regime became our second factory in Perth. We also expanded our Margaret River facility so we could produce more chocolate as well,” Martin explains. Since those early days, the Margaret River Chocolate Company has trebled in size to include a café, a winery, a food business and an organic garden. It is spread across three locations in Perth, the Swan Valley and in Margaret River, with more than 100 staff on-hand to help satisfy the growing demand for all things sweet.

Food and wine It was a natural progression for the chocolaterie to expand into the food realm with the opening

of Providore – a gourmet produce merchant, cellar door and organic garden on the adjoining property on Tom Cullity Drive, Metricup. As I wander through the vegetable garden, I spy eggplant, tomatoes, strawberries, zucchinis and citrus trees, to name a few. “As our chocolatiers came from chef backgrounds they began making sauces and jams to build business and gather momentum over the quieter summer months. At the same time, we’d been building our own olive oil and wine brands so we combined the wine, olives and non-chocolate based items to create Providore,” Martin says. There are a thousand Tuscan olive trees planted on this magnificent property, with their liquid gold oil being blended into cold-pressed extra virgin oil under the Mount of Olives Brand. The surrounding vineyards are used for the creation of wines produced under the Coward & Black label.

Introducing Samborino If Martin and Patrick don’t already have enough on their plates, they have recently embarked on another venture that combines their passion for chocolate and wine. This dark and seductive love affair has been bottled in a range of Samborino chocolate liqueurs. There’s a Classic Chocolate, Hazelnut Mousse, Macchiato and After Dinner Mint in the range, which is made from a combination of grape spirit and cocoa product. I decide to pour some over a bowl of ice cream. A tad indulgent, I know. Seriously good, though. I’m not sure whether it’s the endorphins from the chocolate kicking in, or that I’m immersed in such a beautiful patch of earth in the south west, but visiting here has left

me with a happily contented sugar buzz. I may have thrown my diet out the window, but as I drive away with a bag full of treasures beside me, it was worth every single bite. Visit chocolatefactory.com.au for opening hours.

CHOC CHUMS Martin Black and Patrick Coward (above) have created one of the mustvisit (and most delicious) attractions in the Margaret River region.

New World Winery of the Year TASTING BAR • WINE LOUNGE • RESTAURANT • THE VAULT • ART GALLERY • TOURS Open Daily 10AM - 5PM Caves Road (Cnr Tom Cullity Drive), Cowaramup WA 6284 margaretriver.com Phone 9756 5000 Restaurant Reservations 9756 5050

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IMAGE BIANCCA TURRI

Eat & Drink

Sisters are brewing it for themselves FEMALE BREWERS ARE MAKING THEIR MARK IN THE MARGARET RIVER REGION. JANINE PITTAWAY REPORTS.

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he production of beer and spirits is an age-old tradition, and beer’s even said to be the world’s oldest drink, produced and consumed in every corner of the world. Although it’s been recorded that women have been brewing beer since ancient times, brewing has been seen to be a male dominated field in more recent history. With the recent growth in the popularity of craft beer, evidenced by the significant number of local breweries we now enjoy in the region, women are stepping back in to master the amber art. Leading the charge is Aymee Monk, brewer at one of the largest breweries in the region, Colonial Brewing Co. Working alongside head brewer Ryan Nobbs, 30-year-old Aymee came to brewing by accident but sees herself growing in the role and eventually brewing her own recipes once she has a wealth of knowledge under her belt. “The majority of my working life has been within the logistics industry. After leaving New Zealand I worked in Sydney and then Perth, importing and exporting," she says. Aymee then moved to Margaret River nearly three years ago and says she wouldn’t live anywhere else. “I’ve been working as a brewer for about a year now. I was originally working in the bar at

IMAGE BIANCCA TURRI

GIRL POWER Left, Claire Parker – Cowaramup Brewing, Aymee Monk - Colonial Brewing, Cherry Durant Black Brewing Co

Colonial and when a position on the brewing team came I applied and got the job,” she said. “The industry is hugely supportive and I’m lucky to work alongside an amazing head brewer who is always there for any questions I might have. “My favourite part of the job is meeting new people and my biggest challenge is that there’s always something new to learn. I guess that’s what keeps things interesting.” She believes living in the south west influences the styles of beer created and the ingredients used. “I think we’re spoilt for choice down here in the south west – there are so many amazing breweries bringing out some quality beers. And as for the ingredients that are available, it’s awesome to have so many to choose from.”

And Aymee’s favourite beer style? “It may sound a little boring but I really enjoy a quality wheat beer, it’s always refreshing and easy drinking. And then for a treat, a dark porter or stout goes down pretty well too.” Also learning the brewery ropes and loving it is 21-year-old Cherry Durant from Black Brewing Co. It’s Cherry’s first job in the industry and she’s is in the throes of learning the brewing process. Like Aymee, Cherry started front of house but then developed an interest in production. “I began working with the production team eight months ago and enjoyed the work straight away, so whenever the work was available I took it!” she said. She’s now milling and kegging, and runs the

packaging line under the guidance of head brewer Shannon Grigg and brewer Adam Brookes. “What started off as extra work has turned into something I’m now really passionate about,” Cherry said. “Every day is different and although it’s challenging when learning a new role or using a different piece of machinery, it keeps it interesting. “I’m learning something new all the time. There’s always new tasks and problems to solve. Working under the supervision of the brewers has improved my confidence to work on production tasks alone. “Black Brewing Co is just a three-year-old brewery, so it’s terrific to be part of a team that encourages learning, prides itself on the quality of beer produced, and works together to build its margaretriver.com

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IMAGE BIANCCA TURRI

Eat & Drink

IMAGE BIANCCA TURRI

BREW BABES Above, Tegan Dawson from Bush Shack Brewery and CBCo's Aymee Monk.

reputation in the region. “I think it’s exciting that Margaret River is becoming more well known for our breweries as well as the beer itself being noticed more widely. The quality overall is already at a high standard with such healthy competition between breweries,” she said. Her favourite beers right now are the less

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intense styles like a pale ale and she said Black Brewing Co’s Honest Ale was definitely the most popular at home. Manager and production team member at Cowaramup Brewing Claire Parker, loves the variety a small brewery offers and the independence they have to do their own thing. Claire set up the brewery with business partner Jeremy back in 2006, in the days when Bootleg Brewery and Bush Shack Brewery (then Wicked Ale) were the lone brewers in the region and Colonial were just getting started. “We’ve trained up a lot of local brewers since that time,” she said. “It’s a competitive industry for sure, but also very collaborative.”

She agrees being in the south west influences the quality of the beer down here, saying the purity of the rainwater contributed to the quality of the beers. “All that goes into our beers is malted barley or wheat, yeast, hops and water.” Cowaramup Brewing is now also growing its own commercial hop harvest. Craft beer enthusiast Tegan Dawson has worked behind the bar for Bush Shack Brewery for 15 years and has seen much change in that time. “It’s an industry that has come a long way but in some ways is still just a fledgling. Now is a really exciting time to be involved, with so many innovators breaking new ground and new styles,

and the re-interpretation of old styles,” she said. “I love talking with people over the bar, getting them to try something new and maybe changing their mind or finding something that suits their palate. There’s a whole world of flavour here just waiting to be explored. “There’s a rapidly growing craft beer community in WA and on the whole it’s really friendly and supportive, with a lot of collaboration. “It feels good to be a part of something moving in a positive direction. And it’s fun, beer is fun! There are no bad days when a brewery is your office!" Tegan’s pick this season? “For the winter I love a good milk stout and Bush Shack’s Chocolate Stout is a long-time favourite. Last winter’s Boss Taurus from Bootleg and Eagle Bay’s Black Vanilla were both stand-outs, it will be interesting to see the dark and complex creations that emerge this winter.” It's not just beer where women are leading the way in the Margaret River region, Rebecca de Burgh is also doing great things with gin. After a chance meeting with the founder of Great Southern Distilling and Giniversity Margaret River, she joined the business. “I’ve always been involved in the liquor industry in one way or another in hospitality, production and marketing,” she said. “I’ve had a variety of roles at Giniversity, including lab technician, cellar hand and sales.” Almost two years ago she started distilling and is now distiller and operations manager. “I instantly fell in love with the job of distilling - the craft, the diversity and the innovation,” Rebecca said. “I love the creative licence the role brings, the opportunity to experiment and trialling and developing new recipes.” And it seems she is also here to stay. “When I arrived here I quickly learnt Margaret River offers so much more than just wine - lifestyle, adventure, natural beauty, culture and gin! We really are so spoilt. “Margaret River is a perfect balance of the country lifestyle, adventure and entertainment.” She firmly believes living down here influences the styles of gin she creates. “The region is bursting with quality produce, talented artists, collaborative businesses, rich terroir and constant innovation.” Rebecca’s favourite spirit is Giniversity’s Barrel Aged gin. “It’s a warm sipping gin aged in ex-Margaret River red wine casks adding a sweet tannin to the gin,” she said. Cheers, ladies!

Hemp gin anyone? Giniversity has teamed up with the Margaret River Hemp Co, a long-standing family owned business in Margaret River, to make a truly unique gin using 100% locally-grown Australian hemp seed. Contact Giniversity to find out more.

margaretriver.com

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Wine & wineries

A dog’s tale

MEET THE HARDWORKING HOUNDS OF THE WINE INDUSTRY. BY LIZZY PEPPER. PHOTOS BY CRAIG MCGILL AND TIM CAMPBELL.

ine dogs. They’re the unsung heroes of the wine industry. Their humans get the glory for the scrumptious chardonnay or shiraz, but it’s the wine dogs who quietly keep things running smoothly. There’s dozens if not hundreds of these handsome, hard working hounds in the Margaret River wine region, and I can reveal where to meet some of the friendliest wine dogs around.

WINE DOGS – the book Serious dog lovers will have cry-laughed over the Wine Dogs books, including the latest Leunig edition. The books profile dogs from all over Australia, sharing each dog’s favourite pastimes, obsessions and (my favourite) their naughtiest deeds.

I asked photographer Craig McGill to share a few of his favourite local wine dogs and behind the scenes stories. Craig says it was a trip to the Barossa and McLaren Vale that spurred the idea for the book. “We were greeted by dogs in every winery we visited. After returning home and looking at our travel photos, we noticed most of the pics were of winery dogs – I said to [co-publisher] Sue “there’s probably a book in this!” Having met hundreds of wine dogs, there must be a ‘naughtiest deed’ that tops them all? “There’s two; the dog that set itself in quick-set cement and the dog that peed on the Jehovah Witness,” says Craig. Craig reveals the secret to getting dogs to look at the camera – perfect if you’ve ever had a dog look everywhere but the lens: “a squeaky ball is essential.” Michael Leunig penned a superb introduction to the latest Wine Dogs book and contributed over a dozen cartoons.With 19 Margaret River region dogs in the new book, you could easily plan a weekend of wine tasting around it. Available at wineries and Margaret River Bookshop.

Hamish, Howard Park Hamish loves attention, according to his human, Nat Burch.You’ll probably find Hamish snoring by the fireplace in the cellar door or cleaning the kitchen floor. Watch out in the car park though; Hamish enjoys a game of chicken with cars, and his naughtiest deed was when he jumped into a visitors car, peed and ran away. Becky, Hay Shed Hill Wines Becky’s been the perfect host at Hay Shed Hill for over a decade. She meets and greets guests and will lavish you with gifts of gravel rocks and a paw shake if you’re bearing food. Becky entertains kids while their parents taste the wines, and her naughtiest deed is stealing a whole roast chook from owners Mike and Leith’s dinner table. BARKY AROMA Below, Bess from Arimia and, left, Cullen Wines’ Solly.

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As Becky has grown, so has Hay Shed Hill. Ten years ago, it was a cellar door with an enviable cheese cabinet, now there’s the fabulous Rustico restaurant serving Spanish degustation lunches and tapas style plates. Becky can recommend it all. Tux, Harley, Max and Jack, Credaro Wines The four border collies (below) of Credaro Wines are busy right now, helping prune the vines. True working dogs, they’ll follow their owners around the farm, checking (chasing?) lawnmowers and catching mice. Naughtiest deeds? “There’s lots of naughty stuff!” says Tash who works in cellar door. “They’re pretty chilled, but they’ve been known to pee on the rug.”

HAPPY HOUNDS Below, Credaro Wines’ Tux, Harley, Max and Jack, and this pic, Becky at Hayshed Hill.

Solly, Cullen Wines “Solly’s a bit of a czar – he’s a people magnet, people come here to meet him,” says winemaker Vanya Cullen, of Cullen Wines. “Dogs have an incredible emotional intelligence, and Solly is a gifted morale booster,” she continues. His job is to make people happy, and you’ll find him lazing in the sunshine outside the restaurant and cellar door, waiting for love. Not a naughty deed as such, but Vanya says Solly is dedicated to organic pest control, catching as many blowflies as he can, and leaving snot marks on the windows in his quest. So, what are we doing this weekend? A Wine Dogs tour of Margaret River, of course!

Bess, Arimia You can’t actually visit Arimia without first acknowledging Bess.This loveable three-legged Australian Shepherd lays across the front door and won’t move until you say g’day. “She meets, greets, plays with kids and lies under tables, waiting for crumbs” says owner Ann Spencer. “She’s practically perfect and gets on with everyone - she doesn’t have any naughty deeds” says Ann. I enquire about Bess’s missing leg… “perfect except she chases cars – and it didn’t teach her a thing!”

CELLAR DOOR OPEN 11AM - 4PM 4 9 3 M E T R I C U P R OA D, W I L YA B R U P, WA 6 2 8 0 | P H : + 6 1 8 9 7 5 5 7 5 5 3 margaretriver.com | WINTER 2018 37 F R A S E R G A L L O P E S T A T E . C O M . AU

Wine & wineries

heaven MATCH MADE IN

WINTER FEASTING INEVITABLY MEANS WE REACH FOR WINTER REDS. FERGAL GLEESON SUGGESTS WHICH LOCAL DROPS GO WELL WITH HEARTY MEALS. 38

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merican singer Kathy Mattea once said that “A gourmet meal without a glass of wine just seems tragic.” It’s a sentiment that I agree wholeheartedly with, which is why I’ve spoken to four winemakers around the region and asked them to recommend their perfect wine and food pairing for the winter season.

WATERSHED WINES SENSES SANGIOVESE 2014 ($29.95) AND CHARCUTERIE “Our sangiovese is grown on a single block just north of the vineyard. It likes a warmer, drier climate which is why we have it there,” says Severine Logan, head winemaker at Watershed Wines. “It’s an interesting variety. Sangiovese is our answer to Pinot Noir. Like Pinot Noir, it’s a lighter bodied wine than shiraz or cabernet.

Senses sangiovese has cherries, spice and savoury characters. I like drinking it because it is not as big, tannic and rich. It is easier drinking. “Sangiovese is lovely with a charcuterie plate, duck or pasta. I suppose you could do all the Italian clichés because it’s an Italian variety. If you don’t like white wine and you are having fish you can get away with it too. It is a nice lunchtime wine. It also pairs well with cheese.” How does Watershed Senses Sangiovese compare to Italian expressions of the grape? “Ours has lovely cherries and spice. We keep the tannins soft. In parts of Tuscany like Brunello they make big, full bodied, structured Sangiovese like a Bordeaux. Ours doesn’t have the same depth. We are making something that is more food-friendly and made for earlier drinking.” Severine is from the Loire Valley in France originally and studied Oenology at Toulouse before working in vintages in European wine

WOODLANDS EMILY CABERNET FRANC MERLOT 2016 ($39) & STEAK TARTARE Andrew Watson of Woodlands has happy memories as a youngster of helping his father wash out wine barrels at weekends to make a cabernet franc blend. It was 1989 and Woodlands had almost ceased production. Andrew’s father David Watson was struggling to balance raising a family with commuting from Perth on weekends to run Woodlands. They sold their cabernet sauvignon grapes to other Margaret River producers but there was the problem of the unsold cabernet franc, merlot and malbec. David got together with some friends and they decided to make “Emily”, referencing the varietals used to make St Emilion wine in Bordeaux. Andrew describes it as an

Cellar Door | Café

Escape winter and indulge by the fire with a five-course long lunch at Clairault | Streicker Estate. Each dish is created from local, WINTER WARMERS Watershed Wines' Severine Logan loves pairing charcuterie and pasta with their Sangiovese 2o14. Right, Andrew Watson of Woodlands suggests steak tartare with their Emily Cabernet Franc Merlot 2016.

regions such as Bordeaux, Alsace, Corsica and Burgundy before stints in Western Australia and the Hunter Valley. I asked if it’s confusing for a French winemaker living in Australia to be making an Italian wine. “I’ve been in Australia for more than 20 years so I think I am more Australian than French now!" she says. "In France I’d make wines from two or three varietals. In Australia I’ve typically been making wines from seven or eight different varieties. It does take time to get your head around the different wines. But I’ve been making Sangiovese at Watershed for over 10 years now.” Visit watershedwines.com.au

seasonal produce and paired with an award-winning wine.

early example of crowd funding. All the grapes used in the production of Emily now come from the Woodlands Brook Vineyard which Andrew and his brother Stuart Watson purchased in 2008. “We were just taking control at that stage so this represents a real coming of age wine for us.” For readers unfamiliar with cabernet franc, what does it taste like? “It’s very different from cabernet sauvignon,” says Andrew. “It’s more aromatic with a strong flavour of violet. The tannin structure is also very different. The tannins coat the side of the tongue while cabernet sauvignon hits the back of the tongue. In Emily, cabernet franc provides

$75 p.p. Available from 11am, 7 days a week. Please call 9755 6225 to make a reservation or visit clairaultstreicker.com.au/Experience Clairault | Streicker Estate 3277 Caves Rd, Wilyabrup 6282 +61 8 9755 6225 clairaultstreicker.com.au margaretriver.com

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*prices quoted subject to change

Wine & wineries

the skeleton and merlot provides the flesh. I call merlot ‘the peacemaker’. The flavours of blackcurrant and plumb overlay the wine really well. “2016 is my favourite vintage ever in Margaret River. It was very dry. We had a mild to warm summer. Then there was an enormous rain event in January when 90mm of rain fell. Then it went back to being dry again. For our unirrigated vines this has helped create much better natural acidity, great flavours of bright fruits and wines that really sing.” “Emily has great natural acidity but power. I call it ‘a graceful monster’. I don’t like wines above 14% alcohol. Emily is balanced with beautiful fruit. It’s not over extracted to taste expensive.” “I had the ultimate match with cabernet franc the other night - steak tartare. We’ve also recommended Emily with roast duck or sticky Chinese pork belly. The natural acids cut through the fat or oil. Cabernet franc definitely changes with food. It fleshes out the middle palette. As a vegetarian option I’d try it with something like a mushroom risotto.” Visit woodlandswines.com.au

WILLS DOMAINCUVEÉ D’ÉLEVAGE SHIRAZ 2014 ($75) AND ARKADY LAMB RUMP “This shiraz epitomises the style that we are after at Wills Domain”, says Darren Haunold, the winery's managing director. “It’s not a typical Australian shiraz.The region has always had an affinity to French regions like Bordeaux and the Rhone with its strong maritime influence. In our choice of oak and in winemaking technique we have been inspired by the classic syrah that we like to drink.” “The cuveé is elegant and graceful. The modern shiraz drinker wants complexity and doesn’t want to be slapped around the face with wood and over ripe fruit.” The Haunold family are of Austrian heritage and can trace their family back to the 1300s when they were winemakers for Austrian royalty. While Wills Domain is primarily planted with the classic French varietals, they do make a white wine from the Austro-German varietal scheurebe, which doffs the cap to the Haunold family history. Darren recommends pairing the shiraz with the Arkady lamb rump accompanied by sesame

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MENU MASTERS Above left, Wills Domain's managing director Darren Haunold suggest Arkady lamb rump with their Cuvee D'Elevage Shiraz 2014. Right, Clare and Keith Mugford from Moss Wood.

eggplant, cucumber and pickled onion from the Wills Domain Restaurant menu. “The succulence of the wine pairs well with the richness of the lamb. The cuveé’s bright acidity pitches well with fattier cuts of meat. I’d say the depth of fruit demands proteins.” Head chef Seth James and the winemaking team create dishes that are suitable to the wines. Wills Domain's restaurant has been West Australian Good Food Guide Regional Restaurant of the Year for two years running. “The tasting menu is a bucket list experience in Western Australia because of the vista, the wine and of course the food. It’s based around supporting local farmers, nose to tail as much as customers’ tastes allow, and low food miles. We’ve built good relationships with local farmers because we like to keep the money locally.” Visit willsdomain.com.au

MOSS WOOD CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2015 ($128) AND CHEDDAR Moss Wood cabernet sauvignon is one of the region’s most famous wines. The 2014 vintage achieved stellar scores from wine critics. I think the 2015 is an even better wine. “There’s a strong olive and black fruit presence in the 2015,” says proprietor and winemaker Keith Mugford. “It has floral notes and a nicely ripened tannin.” Keith is in his 40th vintage at

Moss Wood, having come to Margaret River after vintages with Tulloch and Orlando. He modestly refers to himself as having been a student in 1979, still working from the Roseworthy College textbook where he achieved his winemaking qualifications. I asked him to reflect on Moss Wood's cabernet now versus when he started at the winery in 1979. “The fundamentals haven’t changed. The grapes are handpicked and hand plunged in open fermenters. But I’d have to say the base-line quality has improved. Things are better in the vineyard such as improvements in trellising as well as in the winery where our technique has improved at destemming and the preparation of the fruit. So you’d have to say there is an improved quality which leads to a cleaner, purer wine. We tried just as hard in 1979 but in 2018 the skills and technology are better.” Keith doesn’t fuss too much about food and wine matching and jokes that he is dreadful at it. “When I’m in a restaurant, I will choose a dish and wine that I want to drink but rarely know if they will match!” Some of the more novel food and wine matches he has had with Moss Wood wines have occurred in Taiwan. The Moss Wood cabernet was served with a duck’s blood soup. Their semillon was served with crunchy goose feet. Clare Mugford, co-proprietor and Keith’s wife, has noted that at Moss Wood dinners “whether with young or back vintage Moss Wood cabernet, the most complimentary match has been the last wine of the night served with the cheese plate. It goes really well with hard cheeses such as cheddar.” Visit mosswood.com.au

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Wine & wineries

Off the beaten track IF YOU’RE IN SEARCH OF SOMETHING A LITTLE DIFFERENT ON YOUR WINE ADVENTURE, FERGAL GLEESON HAS SOME LESSER KNOWN TREASURES TO EXPLORE.

t 50 years of age, the Margaret River wine region now has many wineries that are globally recognised such as Vasse Felix, Leeuwin Estate and Cullen Wines. But that’s only part of the region’s story. There are close to one hundred cellar doors in the region, and many offer award-winning wines. Many are family-owned wineries where you’ll get the personal touch. Some have picture-postcard vistas where you can enjoy a scrumptious lunch with a local wine, so take the plunge and go off piste.

Stella Bella Wines Stella Bella isn’t quite a household name yet but by any other standard it is one of the most successful wineries in the region. It holds a 5-star Halliday rating and has enjoyed considerable critical acclaim across its different labels from Serie Luminosa at the top to Skuttlebutt, the

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entry level range. Stella Bella was founded in 1999 by the local Pyvis and Waldon families. They now have five distinctive vineyards located throughout southern Margaret River. “We choose the southern Margaret River for its cool climate and ability to produce elegant, aromatic and medium bodied wines,” Luke Joliffe, head winemaker said. “The peak summer and low winter temperatures are moderated. This results in a longer cooler ripening period which creates feminine wines with distinctive varietal complexities. They have delicate and elegant flavours and a precise structure with a mineral character.” Stella Bella has enjoyed notable wine show success recently including a trophy for Best Cabernet Sauvignon and Best Red Wine at the 2016 Langton’s Margaret River Wine Show and

Best Cabernet Sauvignon of Margaret River Region in the 2016 James Halliday Cabernet Challenge for the 2014 Serie Luminosa Cabernet. I asked Luke what he attributed this success to. “Everything is done on a single block basis and we assess and challenge all aspects of winemaking to enhance the particular strengths of the site. Is wild ferment better? What oak suits the vineyard, why, what solids level suits the vineyard?” What are his favourite picks from the range? “Winter in Margaret River calls for cabernet sauvignon and our trophy-wining 2014 Seri Luminosa Cabernet Sauvignon is my pick. Its opulence is astounding and it is almost sold out. Later this year we will be releasing the first ever Suckfizzle chardonnay. The texture and natural acidity create the perfect tension. It is the epitome of southern Margaret River chardonnay with a twist.” What should people expect at the cellar door?

BELLA VISTAS Stella Bella's Luke Joliffe (left) and below, the sweeping views of the vineyard at Hamelin Bay Wines. A sample of Fishbone Wines' delicious menu.

“Our charming little cellar door has a very welcoming relaxed atmosphere and is just minutes from town (just be aware of the roadworks at the moment). The team are so passionate and knowledgeable. We invite people to bring a picnic to enjoy in the vineyard with wine by the glass and also welcome your furry friend too.” What next for Stella Bella? “We have an exciting new label called ‘Otro Vino’ which means other wine. It is a range of adventurous, creative, exotic and explorative hand-crafted wines that will change from year to year. But most of the time we will make chardonnay, sangiovese and tempranillo, then search for alternative varieties we can have fun with. So, stay tuned…” For more visit stellabella.com.au

Hamelin Bay Wines “I always liked drinking the stuff,” says Richard

Drake Brockman on why he opened a winery. “My wife was brought up on the land. She was looking for a rural pursuit. The only thing that interested me to do in the country was to make wine. “You have to be completely mad to do what we did because wine making is a pretty ordinary business!” jokes Richard reflecting on the fact that running a small winery is not for the fainthearted. But that’s exactly what Richard and wife Roslyn did when they established a vineyard in 1992 in the Karridale region of Margaret River. Richard has learned many lessons along the way. “No challenge is too great to eventually overcome, though at first it might appear so. There are the challenges of running a vineyard, a winery and restaurant. That’s agriculture.You are at the mercy of the weather. But there’s always a way even in the coldest, wettest summers.” Recently Hamelin Bay’s Rampant Red 2015 took out a trophy and gold at the Langton’s Margaret River Wine Show. The wine is a blend of shiraz, cabernet and malbec and sells for just $17. “It’s a smart wine. The whole vintage was good,” says Richard. There is also a Rampant White which is a blend of semillon, sauvignon blanc and chardonnay. Both wines feature a large heraldic wyvern or dragon on the label which is the family coat of arms and accounts for the rampancy. Richard particularly recommends their semillon sauvignon blanc which he considers the classic Margaret River white and their margaretriver.com

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Wine & wineries

chardonnay for which they have won the most trophies. They make a reserve cabernet, shiraz and chardonnay in the best years. The Restaurant has been another key to the winery’s success. Richard describes the new menu as “upmarket pub food” such as share plates, platters of local produce, local fish and chips, strip loin steak and house special ice cream sandwiches. “It’s a relaxed venue where you can sit out on the deck and enjoy sweeping views of the vineyard and the valley below.” For more visit hbwines.com.au

Fishbone Wines Kevin Sorgiovanni, owner of Fishbone Wines wrote an interesting piece in the winery newsletter about what happens in the vineyard after vintage: "As the weather gets cooler, the schedule in the vineyard also changes . . . Before they go to sleep, we need to make sure the vines are well fed and nurtured," he writes. "Over the next couple of months, we will disc between the rows in the vineyard. This aerates the earth, stimulates the soil, encourages new earthworm activity and assists in the control of weeds. So, while vintage 2018 draws to a close, the cycle in the vineyard moves to ensuring the vines are in optimum health as they prepare to hibernate for the winter!" To confirm that the winemaker’s work is never done, when I spoke to Fishbone’s winemaker Stuart Pierce, he had just come in from the vineyard where he had been marking out the locations for the planting of new varieties such grenache, pinot noir, malbec and possibly montepulciano. Stuart describes himself as a South Australian lad, who cut his winemaking teeth with Grosset, Australia’s most famous riesling maker. Stuart then found his way to Margaret River via Queensland and some overseas vintages. He has worked with Fishbone Wines for 15 years. Stuart won Australia’s most prestigious wine award in 2010, The Jimmy Watson Memorial Trophy for a Margaret River Cabernet. It was a great experience which he’d love to emulate. He talked me through Fishbone’s two labels. “The Premium Black Label is exclusively Margaret River and single vineyard," he says. "The wines get the artisan approach and my philosophy is to be as genuine as possible to the vineyard itself. The wines get the red carpet treatment with quality oak. I also like to push the boundaries with wild fermentation and minimal filtration. I’ve explored picking early and later to get a better perspective on

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optimum ripeness.” Prices are from $25-35. The Blue Label wines are priced at $24 and are made under the Western Australia Geographical Indication (GI) though most of the fruit is typically Margaret River. The 2017 Sauvignon Blanc Semillon is a stunner and has picked up gold medals and trophies at the West Australian and Margaret River Wine shows. Stuart says: “I knew I nailed the timing of the picking with that wine. It’s one of our biggest sellers.” Stuart also calls out the Black Label chardonnay, for its natural acidity and apple and pear flavours and Black Label Tempranillo, “a really interesting wine” which is whole-bunch pressed and made in small quantities. Fishbone also operate a Japanese Restaurant beside the cellar door offering wine, beer and sake. “Japanese food is subtle and holds up better with the whites. Though we also offer Wagyu beef ribs with plum sauce which go well with our reds.” For more visit fishbonewines.com.au

Brookwood Estate Wines Brookwood founders Trevor and Lynn Mann decided to up sticks from city life in Perth during a winery lunch and Brookwood Estate was born shortly afterwards in 1996. Their daughter Bronnley Cahill is the now winemaker at Brookwood and remembers

helping her parents along the way when they were establishing the six-hectare vineyard. “They were tenacious, hard-working and learnt as they went along. Their original plan was to live on the land and just grow grapes,” she says. Lyn spent some time working in the cellar at Woody Nook learning about winemaking and Trevor looked after the vineyard. It was a huge undertaking for a couple with no winemaking experience. Since then Brookwood have won trophies for their sauvignon blanc and cabernet sauvignon and they focus their wine portfolio very much on their customers. “At our cellar door we are always listening to our customers, this helps us make our wines for them” Their most popular wines are NV Bubbles, a sparkling wine, Mellow Rouge, a fruity and unoaked red wine made to be served chilled and a chenin blanc, which is a full-bodied, medium dry wine. Bronnley is passionate about chenin. “It’s an exceptional varietal. I had the wonderful opportunity to be involved in an exchange for wine professionals to the Loire Valley in France where they make amazing wines from chenin Blanc. This experience was a great source of inspiration for me. Brookwoods’ chenin blanc is crafted in rich and flavourful off-dry style so it pairs beautifully with spicy food, Asian cuisine or a strong flavoured cheese.” Along with their cellar door, Brookwood also has a restaurant that boasts 180-degree vineyard views and delivers a relaxed dining experience. Enjoy a delicious main, share a platter or some tapas and thanks to it being licenced, you can also enjoy local beers as well as their own wines. “Our aim is to provide beautiful, delicious food and first-class wines at affordable prices in a friendly and relaxed environment.” For more visit brookwood.com.au

CUSTODIAN OF THE VINES Left, Fishbone Wine's winemaker Stuart Pierce, and below, beautiful Brookwood Estate.

Cheers to cheese WINE AND CHEESE GO TOGETHER LIKE, WELL, CHEESE AND WINE . THIS YEAR’S CABIN FEVER GIVES CHEESE-LOVERS PLENTY OF OPPORTUNITIES TO TRY SOME OF THE BEST OF BOTH WORLDS. BY CASSANDRA CHARLICK.

hether you are a lover of camembert, cheddar or chèvre, the fine folk at Cabin Fever have got it covered. Get rugged up, venture out of the house and put hibernation on hold with the region’s most hotly anticipated event this July. Oh, and did I mention there will be cheese? There are plenty of options for food and wine lovers to choose from; degustation dinners and dining delights, bonfires and brews, wine and coffee masterclasses, live music . . . the list goes on. However, it is the cheesy goodness in store that has got festival director Brianna Delaporte fired up and ready to hit the fondue pot. “Last year we noticed the excitement around cheese-related events, so made sure we had plenty of cheesy goodness on the line-up this year,” she said. Building on last year's success, several favourite events are back for those ready to dive in for second helpings. “We’re delighted to bring you Fondue by the Fire again, hosted by Howard Park Wines and Cambray Cheese,” says Brianna. This was one of the most popular events

on the program last year.” It’s easy to see why. Armed with a bottle of Margaret River wine, a fireplace blazing and a pot of liquid gold (aka melted cheese) waiting to be scooped up and savoured, it’s hard to think of a better way to spend a wintery afternoon in one of the prettiest wineries in Margaret River. Prefer to keep your cheese in one piece on a plate until it hits your taste buds? Those that aren’t partial to melting their dairy delicacies can find solace at Voyager Estate. Available almost every day throughout the festival, which runs from July 13 to 22, enjoy tasting cabernets and chardonnays from some of the world’s best wine growing regions. What about the cheese? Never fear, curl up by the fireplace and your tasting will be accompanied by some of the south west’s premium cheeses. Cheese and Cheers is the top pick for those that prefer a brew with their brie. Head out to the lush surrounds of Cowaramup Brewing Co on July 17 for a match made in heaven – beer and cheese. Not reserved for the realms of wine connoisseurs; cheese matching with beer

isn’t a new concept and when done well it is a taste explosion. Just think of all those fabulous countries that are as renowned for their stout as they are for their stilton. Let your palate be guided by Cowaramup Brewing Company owner and brewer Jeremy Good and Yallingup Cheese Company owner and cheese maker Alana Langworthy. The piece de resistance in the Cabin Fever cheese extravaganza though is a cheese lovers' paradise. Don’t miss the crowning of the champion of cheese as the south west’s best chefs get their spatulas ready for combat. The date to put in the diary is July 15, when The Common will host the ultimate ‘Cheese Toastie Battle’. Five chefs. Five toasties to try. One winner. The rules? Local cheese. Local bread. Lay down the gauntlet and let the ultimate comfort food competition commence. Of course, it’s always a good idea to stay hydrated so there will be plenty of local wines, brews and spirits to enjoy alongside all of that melted cheese goodness. For further details on these events and to purchase tickets visit Cabin Fever’s website at cabinfever.com.au. margaretriver.com

WINTER 2018

Rad reds

Wine & wineries

Wintery days and nights call for something a little more robust than summertime bubbles. Fergal Gleeson has some unusual reds for you to try.

inter is traditionally a time when wine drinkers gravitate to red. While cabernet sauvignon and shiraz dominate plantings of red varietals in the Margaret River region, when you scratch a little deeper there are a plenty of alternatives. Many of these wines are made in small quantities. They are not widely available through retailers.You can source them online from the wineries or, if you’re lucky enough to be within striking distance, from the Cellar Door.

HAPPS iSERIES PINOT NOIR 2017

ROSILY OTHER SIDE OF THE MOON GRENACHE

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Erl Happ was planting alternative varietals in Margaret River in the 1980s long before it was fashionable. Happs' range is a cornucopia of world wine styles from Margaret River classics such as cabernet and sauvignon blanc semillon, to preservative-free wines, sweet wines and fortified wines to obscure Iberian and Italian varietals like tinta cao, touriga nacional and bastardo. They’ve hit the bullseye with this pinot noir which is a rarity in the region. Inside the smartlooking bottle is a medium weight, savoury wine with a good depth of strawberry and cherry flavour. Gentle acid tannins provide texture right through the finish. Happs have the right site in the cool Karridale region to make it happen. Excellent value. Visit happs.com.au

Shiraz grenache’s rising popularity reflects the transition in tastes of many drinkers from heavy dreadnought reds to lighter styles. This is the kind of grenache I like with bright, red fruit flavours. The dash of shiraz provides some extra depth. It’s a smooth and quaffable wine with a pinot noir like weight to it. Rosily have built a reputation for making great value red and white wines from their organic, estate-grown fruit. They’ve done it again here with a well-made wine that’s lots of fun and well-priced. The 2017 will be available from July. Visit rosily.com.au

JUNIPER ESTATE SMALL BATCH TEMPRANILLO 2016

ARAVINA ESTATE LIMITED RELEASE GRENACHE SHIRAZ MERLOT

Juniper Estate is one of the original Margaret River region vineyards, established in 1973. They primarily focus on the region’s well known varietals in the Juniper Estate and entry level Juniper Crossing labels. Tempranillo has been the biggest success in Australia so far of the alternative Spanish and Italian varieties. Juniper Estate tempranillo is part of the Small Batch range where they work with new varieties to the region. Juniper have made a bright and refreshing one that’s mid weight. The black cherry flavour and smooth tannins make for an approachable, easy-drinking wine. Visit juniperesate.com.au

Aravina Estate is a significant tourist destination in the Margaret River region: there is a restaurant, sports car gallery, a kitchen garden and the West Australian Surf Gallery. Winemaker Ryan Aggiss hits the right notes with this grenache-led blend making a juicy and refreshing wine. It’s a blend of 50% Frankland River and 50% Margaret River fruit. Tannins are light in this medium-bodied wine which has an almost rosé-like lifted finish. Also look out for their limited release tempranillo and shiraz, which are excellent. Visit aravinaestate.com

HAPPS THREE HILLS MALBEC 2016

GOON TYCOONS GRENACHE 2017

The Goon Tycoons focus on small batch winemaking from vineyards across Margaret River and Great Southern. Their tagline is “three young guys who have been in the wine industry for many years who are out and about on good behaviour.” They’ve got an intriguing range including teroldego, chenin, rieslings, a field blend rosé and a whole bunch shiraz. The branding targets a hip audience rather than granny’s dinner table but the olds could enjoy this too! This is made from old bush vine grenache from Frankland River. It’s a pretty wine with floral and spicy notes, light tannins and a bright refreshing finish. Visit goontycoons.com.au

Three Hills is the premium range from Happs made from the best fruit and vintages. The range includes exotics such as nebbiolo, sangiovese and petit verdot. They come in heavy weight bottles which are serial numbered. Happs Three Hills Malbec 2016 is darker than The Handmaid’s Tale and while technically a red wine, it’s black in colour. Malbec (or cot) has French origins where it manifests in robust wines. Three Hills take this French reference rather than the soft and fruity Argentinian malbecs that we see more of in Australia. Powerful with dark fruit flavours and a dense inky texture, it’s a full-bodied wine that lovers of a big cabernet or shiraz will appreciate. Visit happs.com.au

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Wine & wineries 40

WINTER 2018

REDGATE CABERNET FRANC 2015

CAPE MENTELLE ZINFANDEL 2015

Redgate is a family-owned-and-run winery established in 1977, when Margaret River was still frontier territory for winemaking. They are unique in offering cabernet franc as a single varietal. French winemakers in the Loire do it, but in Australia as in Bordeaux, it is more commonly blended with cabernet sauvignon and merlot. Redgate cabernet franc is a savoury wine with good tannin and balance. It won a silver medal in the Langton’s Margaret River Wine show. The wine is still opening up so will be even better with two years plus ageing, when it will deliver for many years. If you’re impatient, give it a good decant. Either way it’s well worth investigating. Visit redgatewines.com.au

Zinfandel is a hero grape in California, their equivalent of shiraz. Head winemaker Frederique Perrin is French but counts Napa Valley experience on her CV, so has a very good handle on the grape. “It’s very hard to grow. It’s a teenager that won’t do what you want it to do. Cabernet is a distinguished gentleman, the guy in the suit. Zinfandel is unruly, frowing on gnarly bush vines. I take a hands-off approach despite the acidity and sugar, which are off the chart," she says. The nose knows with this wine. You smell plum pudding, ripe fruit, vanillin oak, which are all in abundance on the palate. The triumph is that it’s all balanced and refreshing. This is Australia’s oldest and best known zinfandel. Enjoy for pure hedonistic pleasure. Visit capementelle.com.au

CULLEN MANGAN EAST BLOCK PETIT VERDOT MALBEC 2016

MOSS WOOD RIBBON VALE MERLOT 2015

Petit verdot makes for a unique wine when given a starring role, with its grippy tannins and bright acidity. This novel blend was first trialled by Vanya Cullen back in 2000 at the cellar door as “a bit of fun”.Vanya compares the synergy of the two varietals to that of semillon and sauvignon. In this case the petit verdot provides the line and the malbec the breath and fruitiness. This wine is sophisticated and distinctive. The flavours brought to mind beaujolais but with more depth. Will delight any wine lover because it is so vivid and precise. Visit cullenwines.com.au

This wine will redefine how you think about Australian merlot. Dr John Gladstones, the early diviner of Margaret River’s winemaking potential, noted the similarity of the climate of the region to St Emillion and Pomerol. Both are powerhouses of merlot.Yet Margaret River mostly uses merlot as a blend to smooth out cabernet’s edges. Moss Wood prove the potential to do something world-class with merlot in the region. The 2015 is savoury and complex. It is juicy and refreshing but also has tar and tannins running through it. Exceptional. Visit mosswood.com.au

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What’s happening in the world of the Margaret River region’s vineyards and wineries. Top award for boutique producer

Margaret River winery Brown Hill Estate has taken out a ‘Best in Show’ award at the prestigious 2018 Decanter World Wine Awards for their 2014 Perseverance Cabernet Merlot, the ultimate accolade from one of the most prestigious wine competitions in the world. There were 50 awards given out for ‘Best in Show’ globally, with six Australian producers on the honour roll. Brown Hill Estate was the only West Australian winery to receive a ‘Best in Show’ award, an outstanding achievement, with more than 16,905 wines from 60 countries tasted by the 270+ judges. Winemaker and owner of Brown Hill, Nathan Bailey, says, “It’s nice to see a small boutique producer such as Brown Hill Estate being acknowledged for a wine like the 2014 Perseverance Cabernet Merlot. We like to think of our wines being world class, and this accolade just helps to showcase the special style of wines that we’re producing in Margaret River.” Founded in 1995, Brown Hill Estate is a familyowned and operated winery based in Rosa Brook, Margaret River. It is a joint partnership between Jim and Gwen Bailey and their son, winemaker Nathan and daughter-in-law Chiara. Brown Hill 2014 Perseverance Cabernet Merlot | $55 | cellardoor@brownhillestate.com.au | brownhillestate.com.au

Taste test

On June 1,the highly anticipated release of Xanadu’s flagship wines – the 2016 Reserve Chardonnay, 2016 Stevens Road Chardonnay and 2015 Stevens Road Cabernet Sauvignon was marked with a special tasting session over the WA Day weekend. Hailing from an accoladed pedigree of past vintages, these fine wines offer a pure reflection of Xanadu’s magnificent vineyards. “The release of our flagship Reserve and Stevens Road wines is something we look forward to every year” says senior winemaker, Glenn Goodall. “These wines represent the best of each vintage, and in most seasons offer a wonderful dichotomy of style which is more of a reflection of site, rather than winemaking influence.” In celebration of the release, Xanadu hosted a complimentary tasting during the WA DAY weekend. Visitors to the winery, located in the heart of the Margaret River region, enjoyed an immersive tasting experience held in their stunning barrel hall. If you are interested in tasting these new releases and more, visit Xanadu’s Cellar Door nestled among some of the region’s oldest vines. For more information about the new wines, visit xanaduwines.com or call (08) 9758 9500

OPEN EVERYDAY FOR EVERYONE 11am - 5pm ph:08 97553554 |

WINTER 2018

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Wine & wineries

the

BIG The rise and rise of organic and biodynamic wines has found plenty of uptake in the Margaret River region. Fergal Gleeson reports.

ive years ago, organic and biodynamic winemaking might have seemed leftfield or faddish. But jump forward to 2018 and you see an increasing number of converts to sustainable agriculture in the Margaret River region. I spoke to three of the regions wineries in various stages of their organic winemaking journey.

Voyager Estate Voyager Estate is one of the regionâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s leading wineries, establishing their vineyards in 1978. Well known for their Cape Dutch style tasting room and the extensive rose garden, they caused

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quite a stir when they recently announced their move to become a certified organic winery. Of Voyager’s 120 hectares, 40 are currently in conversion to certified organic. Winemaker Steve James is just about to start on the next 40 hectares with the intention that the whole vineyard will be certified organic by 2023. Steve sees it as “going back to how farming was done 80 or 90 years ago before the advent of modern chemicals. A return to a simpler way of farming working with natural products.” “Voyager have been using organic farm practices for a number of years but the move to become certified organic by Australian Certified Organic was the natural next step to improve what we are doing,” he says. Steve points out that the climate in Australian wine regions lends itself to organic because there is not much summer rain so there is less disease pressure. He sees that many parts of Margaret River already use sustainable practices. However if organic was that easy everybody would be doing it. “Organic is harder to practise in the vineyard than in the winery, which is simple. The biggest challenge is weed control for which there is no silver bullet. We use mowing, different cover crops and tillage. In winter we graze sheep who

operate like natural lawnmowers but they must be quarantined for a few weeks.” (So that they don’t introduce any inorganic materials to the vineyard). Does organic wine taste better? “Many of the best wines of the world are made organically or biodynamically. Great wines are an expression of site and soil. Organic is an important part of

GOING ORGANIC The team at Voyager Estate are currently converting 40 out of their 120 hectares to certified organic.

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Wine & wineries

that because you are working deep down with the roots. The characteristics of the wine would be less overt fruit and more textural and savoury. You are dealing with soil that’s alive and healthy.” Steve concluded by saying “I’ve been farming for 30 years. It’s been really refreshing to think about things differently and not go for the easy option of spraying. If you love farming. It’s a lovely way to farm.” Visit voyagerestate.com.au

Rosily Vineyard Rosily Vineyard is a family-owned winery based at Wilyabrup, whose first plantings were in 1994. They have built a strong reputation for delivering high quality, value-for-money wines from their estate vineyards and have recently introduced a reserve cabernet and chardonnay. After two years of trials and three years of conversion, their vineyards were certified organic in May 2017. Winemaker Mick Scott is no eco warrior. His reasons for taking Rosily organic are based on a mixture of pragmatic as well as environmental considerations. “Our vineyards are 20 years old," he says. The productive life of vines is 50 to 60 years. So the question was ‘will they continue to produce well?’ I wanted to make sure that we were looking after the vineyard as well as we could. “There was the hope that the fruit would taste better and more complex. There are some preliminary tests out of California which, in blind tastings, show that organic and biodynamic wines do taste better.” “We are a small, family run business. There are just two people in the vineyard and me. I grew up in the same street as one of the guys. The amount of chemicals a farmer sees is a million times more than the ordinary person does. No matter how careful you are you can’t avoid exposure to it.” “Then we were thinking of the future. Large wineries like Voyager were talking about it.The question will soon be, ‘who is not organic rather than who is?’You’ll be a dinosaur and forced to change later when you’ll be behind the eight-ball.” Like Voyager's Steve James, Mick echoes that farming organically is challenging. Weevils caused extensive crop damage of up to 40% over two years. Mick feels it’s possible that the vines were weak for the first three years after moving to the new organic fertilisation practices as they were lacking the nutrients they’d become accustomed to. They have since introduced a new system where a cloth is wrapped around the base of the vine which acts as a physical barrier to the weevils. “Organic wine is more expensive to produce

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as there is more labour and there is the risk of crop loss. However the picture will become clearer when we’ve been running organically for longer.” One of Mick’s bug bears are the winemakers who say things like, ‘we use organic principles’. “It’s very easy to say that and to use it most of the time. But then they just get out the pesticides when the weevils arrive. That’s why it’s important to understand who has gone through certification.” “There were raised eyebrows six years ago from the industry when I first broached organic. The attitude was, ‘why you would bother?’ But there has been a lot of interest from consumers and from the trade since we made the switch,"

Vanya Cullen takes up the story on where her interest in sustainable winemaking came from. “Mum and dad cared for the environment and used minimal chemical inputs. For example in the early 90s mum trialled seaweed as a fertiliser. We began the conversion to organic from 1998, becoming certified in 2003. Then I became interested in biodynamic which I saw as a step above. A sort of organics plus.” By 2008, the Cullen and Mangan vineyards and the winery had been certified biodynamic. But what is biodynamic winemaking? Biodynamic is similar to organic farming in that both take place without chemicals, but biodynamic farming also views the vineyard as an ecosystem. It takes astrological influences and

says Mick. “There’s no turning back. At Rosily, we enter a lot of wine shows and we analyse the results data from the shows. We have had the best results ever in the last couple of years since we made the changes in the vineyard.” Visit rosily.com.au

lunar cycles into consideration in the timing of when activities happen in the vineyard. Over time, methods and preparations create deeper topsoil, increase root mass and depth, and increase water holding capacity of soils - thereby improving plant health and improving the plant’s resistance to pests and disease. Vanya sees it as “the embodiment of terroir in its sustainability and connection to the soil”. I asked her to explain the idea of root, fruit, flower and leaf days. “They are related to the planetary aspect and determine what activities should be conducted on particular days for example- planting on fire

Cullen Wines Cullen Wines are one of the pioneering wineries of Margaret River, founded in 1971. They are a certified biodynamic winemaker. They are also the first winery in Australia to become certified carbon neutral.

sign days and watering on leaf days.” Biodynamic winemaking has its sceptics who see all of this as mumbo jumbo. I asked Vanya if it was scary going out on a limb from the rest of the industry. “Australia doesn’t have a tradition of sustainable agriculture, but we are getting better. With biodynamics there is a real focus on quality and sustainability. It feels lovely to honour nature. Initially we got dropped off the mainstream as we were given the ‘environmental’ tag. But now, sustainability is becoming a greater priority for everyone.” Many of names of Cullen’s wines reflect the biodynamic approach to wine making: Dancing in the Moonlight is her rosé, Dancing in the Sun is a sauvignon/semillon mix, Rose Moon is a pet nat rosé. “I believe that you can see the detail and completeness in the wine. You can see the difference in the vibrancy of a pure product.” Visit cullenwines.com.au

GREEN DAYS The biodynamic approaches to making wine is similar to the organic one, but also sees the vineyard as an ecosystem.

a unique wine experience. japanese inspired summer cuisine with award winning wines, located in the heart of margaret river. w w w. f i s h b o n e w i n e s . c o m . a u 422 Harmans Mill Road, Wilyabrup WA | Open Daily Phone: 08 9755 6726 | Email: cellardoor@fishbonewines.com.au

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“When I was making Three Summers last year in Pinjarra both Rebecca Breeds and Rob Sheehan (my leading lady and man) took weekends off there and they too fell in love with Margaret River. Everybody does.”

Somewhere only we know It’s no secret that the Margaret River region is a great place for a holiday. Dianne Bortoletto chats to a few high profile personalities about why they love to holiday in south west.

Ben Elton author, playwright, actor, director Ben Elton has worked as a comedian, an actor and a director, he’s written musicals, movies and television series and he’s authored 15 books. Quite clearly, he is entertainment’s all-round star player. “WA is amazing! I’ve been from the top to the bottom, as far as Denmark which is so beautiful, you should do the Green's Pool swim,” Ben said.

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“There’s no doubt Margaret River has grown enormously since I first visited in ‘87 and also the surrounding area. I remember Cowaramup when it only had one cow! “But I think they’ve grown it well and it remains beautiful and with real character.” Ben chatted with JustAnotherDayinWA.com about Margaret River following the release of the film Three Summers. “Margaret River, I mean come on? Sun, surf, fine wine, great food, fabulous bush? What is not to love?” Ben said. “I’ve been visiting Margs for 30 years, in fact my then girlfriend (now wife) and I caravanned there in 1987 on our first trip south together. The caravan park at Prevelly is still there with the same little shop and the same incredible surf (not that I do anything but splash about in it). “The wine in the region is of course superb and there is nothing better than a long lazy lunch at one of the many brilliant wineries. “We are so lucky to have a little holiday place in this incredible region. Sophie and I bought it in 1994, the year we got married, and we’ve had such great family holidays over the years.

John Lethlean food critic at The Australian John Lethlean is the food critic at The Australian, creating a column all food writers look to. He has eaten his way across the country and said that when he eventually retires, it will be in the south west. He and his West Australian wife Kate are building a house in Dunsborough and have recently taken to sailing “a crappy old 18-foot yacht”. “The first time I visited the south-west was about seven years ago. I remember being bowled over by the light and the water. I also remember the sparsity of the population, particularly on the beaches. And I remember having lunch at Cullen with my West Australian girlfriend, who is now my wife,” John said. “My mother-in-law lives in Dunsborough so we have spent most of our time in and around there on our frequent holidays west. “Margaret River has that combination of land and sea - unspoiled coastal opportunities but great surf beaches and wild seas for fishing as well as the relative calm of Geographe Bay. I really like the polarity of the two towns, Dunsborough and Margaret River - they are so different. And I really like West Australian people, they are friendly and open, and that really resonates with me. “My top experiences would be sailing to Eagle Bay and mooring for a few hours for a swim, taking a friend’s dog for a walk around the foreshore of old Dunsborough, having a few beers at the Dunsborough Bay Yacht Club, the only place in town for a drink with real water views, having the occasional long lunch at places like Wills Domain or Cullen obviously, heading to a secret rockpool for a snorkel and maybe to get a few abalone in season, obviously, and visiting friends at Prevelly or Gracetown.”

IMAGE BIANCCA TURRI

Natasha Lester author Award-winning author Natasha Lester may have never become a writer had it not been for a family holiday house between Busselton and Dunsborough. Her first book, What is Left Over After, published in 2010 was partially set in Siesta Park. She published her second book If I Should Lose You in 2012. The mother-of-three has since switched to writing historical fiction, has published a total of five novels, has a sixth in development and is just about to publish her first novel in the USA. “I’ve been going to Siesta Park ever since I met my husband, which was about 20 years ago. His family has a beach house there and we used to go there a lot before we had kids, and now we get down about two or three times a year,” Natasha said. “We all love it. The location of the house really makes it – it’s on the beach-side of the road so there’s the house, grass, then the beach, a beautiful calm flat beach, it’s so lovely. I can sit back and relax and the kids can splash around

and I don’t have to worry. “There’s also that great cycle track that runs from Busselton to Dunsborough and we often walk or cycle along that. It’s all those fun, healthy, outdoors activities that I love doing down south, but it’s also the perfect place to relax and just do nothing. “There is so much to do in the region. We go fishing, swimming, exploring – last time we went down we went to the birds of prey park, Heritage Eagles. We do try to go somewhere different or do something different each time. “The region is just as beautiful in winter as it is in summer – getting cosy in front of a fire

with glass of gorgeous red wine is just as nice as enjoying summertime swims. “We also love the wineries. I love lunching at Cullen with their beautiful biodynamic wines and food. We recently had lunch at Amelia Park – the kids loved it so much, it was really delicious and I think it’s the new family favourite. “I do sometimes take some work down there with me or head down there specifically to work. It’s a very inspiring place to be.” Natasha’s latest book ,The Paris Seamstress, is available from all good bookshops or from natashalester. com.au/my-books/

Whale Watching

WHALE WATCHING KILLER WHALE EXPEDITIONS ECO WILDERNESS TOURS

Wha le Watc hing Killer Wha le expedi ti onS ec o Wilderne SS tour S

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BOOK NOW 9750 5500 | www.whales-australia.com.au

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Nature & Environment

A LIFE AQUATIC They’re the biggest drawcard for visitors to the region - get ready for a bumper year for whale watching. By CASSANDRA CHARLICK.

hen winter hits the south west it brings with it some of the most important VIP’s that the region has ever seen. Weighing about 36,000kg and ranging in length from 12 to 16m, these visitors are always a sight to behold and leave both locals and visitors in awe at their beauty. Arriving in style, these guests sail down the coast of WA in crystal clear waters and visit twice a year – once on their way up the coast and once back. They are of course the 30,000 humpback whales that migrate every year and provide some of the most stunning wildlife encounters off the coast from Augusta up to the calm waters of Geographe Bay. Whales have been in the news of late, with a mass beaching at Hamelin Bay in autumn bringing some unwanted attention from sharks and in turn contributing to the premature close of the Margaret River Pro. It’s not unusual for such events unfortunately, with a mass beaching of false killer whales in July 1986 in Augusta prompted an extraordinary response from locals, desperate to save these gentle giants’ lives. After an extraordinary effort involving around the clock care by Augusta locals, 96 out of 114 stranded whales, survived. So it’s no surprise that this particular part of the world has become famous for being the temporary home, twice a year, to migrating whales - and because of this reliable gathering, the world comes with one intention: to whale watch. Naturaliste Charters is a family-run business and the first whale watching operator to provide the chance for members of the public to get up close and personal with whales in the region. Celebrating its 25th anniversary this year, I caught up with owner Paul Cross to get the low down on what it takes to run a business with some of

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the most sizeable colleagues around. Paul and wife Alison bought the business in 2009 and have expanded their offering to provide some of the most memorable experiences that guests will have on the high seas. “We’ve got the biggest number of humpback whales seen anywhere on the planet migrating up the Western Australian coastline. From 30 to 35,000 humpback whales. Additionally, geographically we have the longest season in Australian waters; starting late May and finishing in early December.” It’s all well and good having the whales in reach, but the real treat for visitors on the trips out to sea is the educational journey that accompanies sightings of these deep-sea divers. “We work with Chris Burton from Western Whale Research and with UWA and Curtin University throughout our whale watching season. Having volunteer PHD research students on our vessels allows them to be able to study, but it also gives us in depth knowledge of exactly what is happening out there other than just reading about it, or viewing behavior and not actually certain wheat it may entail. It’s great having their expert knowledge on the boat, along with our newly employed full time marine biologist. She will be attending all of our tours and all of our guys are now trained full time safari guides.” Everyone on the vessel is highly trained an educated on animal behaviour from killer whales to sperm whales, humpbacks to dolphins. “It’s really an educational journey that guests have when they come on board, it’s a privilege for us to be able to share the knowledge with guests and have them come off the boat having not only seen these amazing animals but learn about them too.” From humble beginnings eight years ago, these guests and researchers are now taken out on state of the art boats worth over $2.5million. “Being in that landscape on a daily basis, particularly Augusta and Dunsborough, is such a lucky place to operate. Especially with the $5million marina in Augusta now; when we started it was off the beach. It also makes it more accessible. Our goal is to have as many people experience the majesty of mother nature and the ocean. It’s only when they understand what how precious it is, that people begin to realise how important it is that we protect it and save it from destruction.” Developing to five different experiences, Bremer Canyon expeditions was the first time a tour company had ever run those tours in Australia. So what is next for the eco-warrior and whale champion?

“The next step in the progression with the company is to access licenses to swim with humpback whales. It should be rolled out in our beautiful calm waters. We have a very strong ocean protection focus and using these natural resources like humpback whales is an ideal way to increase awareness. We need sustainable products utilising renewable resources such as these.” Currently there is only one other place in the state that offers such an incredible experience, but what we can offer in the Margaret River region is unparalleled. “We have the ideal location down here for it – the whales are resting and not migratory. Up there in Ningaloo they are on a mission and travelling. Here they are resting in shallow waters.” Paul’s eye is on the bigger picture. It’s clear that his passion is about using tourism and education to expand the international visibility

GIANTS OF THE DEEP Join a whale tour like those run by Naturaliste Charters and you've got an excellent chance of seeing these amazing creatures up close and personal.

of our amazing ecology and in doing so help protect it. “It’s so important to have really good niche high end products in Western Australia – it promotes not just the regions but the entire state and our natural resources. It’s challenging but there are a lot of highly educated people globally that will come to these regions and showcase these places to the world. They don’t just use my products – they then go through the state to the other products and put us all on the global map.” Having just been voted second best whale watching experience in the nation last week by Experience Oz + NZ and with his sights set on swimming with humpbacks in the future, there’s no stopping this seafaring south west local. “It’s a privilege to be able to work with wildlife. I just want to know when I’m going to do the next exciting thing.”

Whale Watch Western Australia Visit whalewatchwesternaustralia.com Legend Charters Whale Watching Visit legendcharters.net.au All Sea Charters Whale Watching Visit whalewatchingcharters.com.au Naturaliste Charters Visit whales-australia.com.au

margaretriver.com

WINTER 2018

Nature & Environment

Wild things If it’s your first time in Australia, you’ll find an amazing variety of wildlife right here in the Margaret River region.

seal colony, albatross wheeling on the wind and shearwaters skimming the swells. Don’t forget to be on the lookout for whales whenever you’ve got an ocean view… they’re out there! Find out more about whale watching tours at margaretriver.com

Underwater Critters The team at Busselton Jetty Underwater Observatory have no shortage of stories about amazing encounters with ocean critters, but tour guide and qualified diver Kate Wolny’s tales of weekly underwater haircuts and ocean floor fin thieves take the proverbial cake. The jetty’s pylons play host to Australia’s largest artificial reef, creating homes for an incredible ‘forest’ of vividly-coloured sub-tropical

By EMMA PEGRUM.

he incredible wildlife of the Margaret River region needs little introduction – after all, the region is set in one of the world’s biodiversity hotspots, with several of the animal species found here not found anywhere else on the planet. If you’re a nature lover, there are few places in the world that make more sense to visit than Margaret River. From underwater wonders, to land dwellers, to the majesties of the sky, the Margaret River region is a smorgasbord for the senses when it comes to wildlife. The best part? It isn’t even that hard to have genuine encounters with some of these amazing animals. In fact, for some, everyday life is filled with weird and wonderful animal encounters. Here, four locals share their amazing animal encounters (spoiler: none of them involve zoos).

Migrating Whales From the scenic seaside town of Augusta, meet the ocean's largest mammals on an extraordinary journey. From the icy cold feeding grounds of the Antarctic, to the warm waters of northern Australia and beyond, migrating humpback whales fill Flinders Bay as they make their epic trek, the longest migration of any mammal on earth. Arriving mid-May and gracing the seas around Augusta until late August or early September, dependent on the migration, you can get up close and personal with Naturaliste

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Charters, pioneers of whale watching in the Margaret River region. Competitive, curious and acrobatic, humpback whales are one of the most spectacular whales to watch. A face to face encounter with an animal 200 times your size is an unforgettable experience. Hear thunderous slaps from flippers weighing several tons. Watch in awe as a whale weighing 40 tons rockets from the ocean in a spectacular breach, trailing sparkling streams of seawater before crashing back into the sea in a storm of white water. Delight in the sight of southern right whales and their newborn calves, one-ton babies born in the bay in July and August. Each addition inspires hope for the future of the most endangered of the great whale species as they play and grow in preparation for their first migration south. Rare minke whales and the largest animal to ever have lived, the blue whale are sometimes seen on the tours. Keep a close lookout for sea eagles and osprey soaring above the cliffs, pods of dolphins surfing the bow wave, the local

fish. Kate cleans the observatory windows weekly, and we must say: as far as cleaning jobs go, this one’s pretty eventful. Kate recalls being visited by the same McCulloch’s scaly fin who would nibble on her hair each week. "Each day that I went down to clean his window he would come down in front of my mask, as if to say ‘oh, you again’, and he would begin to nibble away, We even had a few games of tug-o-war!’, Kate said. Despite the weekly haircut, Kate never had any desire to tuck her hair away while diving; in fact, she said it was her ‘favourite bit of the dive each week’. The juvenile McCulloch’s scaly fin has a bright yellow body and fine electric blue lines over their head, and, as adults, grow into Australia’s largest damselfish. These guys are endemic to the region so catching their blue flashes at the underwater observatory is a true Margaret River experience. Another incredible underwater sighting to be had is that of the gloomy octopus. With a tentacle span of two metres, these are the largest octopi you can see under the Busselton Jetty. But their arm span isn’t just for catching prey like crabs and crustaceans – it also comes in

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handy for messing with divers like Kate. When an octopus below the jetty became infatuated with Kate’s white fins for the first time, she thought it was because she was invading his space – so she took her fins off and placed them out of the way. Much to her surprise, the octopus ventured up to grab her fins anyway! Kate said she let him have one to play with, but when she needed it back she had to peak his interest in a snack – a dead crab found nearby – in order to release the fin from his grip. This became a weekly occurrence. "I thought I had the little guy trained to hold my fins for me’, Kate said, "but in reality, the clever guy had me trained to bring him snacks!" Other favourites at the underwater observatory include the giant cuttlefish, which have special skin cells that allow them to change colour and texture in an instant making them

masters of disguise. They’re tricky to spot but it’s well worth the patience if you do happen to catch one changing its appearance. There’s also a bunch of friendly seals that come by and wave to visitors through the window – they’ve got to be the happiest looking animals in the world.

Crazy Kangaroos The quintessential wildlife sighting, kangaroos can be seen in huge numbers almost anywhere, just driving around the region or hanging out at your rural accommodation. But having a true encounter with a kangaroo doesn’t happen every day – unless of course you happen to be running an adventure tour, like Mick and Ryan who run South West Eco Discoveries. Mick describes one particular encounter that sticks in his memory as ‘unforgettable’. It had already been a classic night out in the Margaret River region – the group had seen a playful pod of dolphins putting on an aerial surfing show – but things were about to get surreal. "Midway through a mother and joey photo shoot, a large cloud of dirt suddenly caught my peripheral," Mick said. As the group drove closer, two territorial

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male kangaroos slowly revealed themselves: they were in a standoff. Mick said the group seemed to grip their seats a bit harder as the kangaroos began to lay blows on each other, with a ‘puff of dust’ coming off each contact. Mick said he remembers the look of ‘intense focus’ in the eye of the victor, the sound of a ‘victory cheer’ that came from a flock of passing cockatoos and the ‘fluttering eyelashes’ of the female kangaroos surrounding the fight.

Rare Birds Sitting out in the Margaret River region’s

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bushland at night, you can hear a lot of strange and curious noises. But Mick and Ryan describe one sound that they’ll never forget. It was a still and warm night, and the usual nocturnal animals had all made an appearance for their tour group One time an unnerving cry that mimicked a human scream sounded out into the night. Mick said the hair stood up on the back of his neck. This was the unmistakable, distinctive cry of the barking owl, a rare bird now perched in a tree directly in front of the group. Guests later described this unique experience as one of the best they’d had on their trip to Australia. margaretriver.com

WINTER 2018

Nature & Environment

hope

Beacons

IT’S INTERNATIONAL LIGHTHOUSE DAY IN AUGUST SO TO CELEBRATE, JANINE PITTAWAY TAKES A LOOK AT THE REGION’S TWO VERY OWN HISTORIC MARITIME BUILDINGS.

he life of the lighthouse keeper of old could be a tough and lonely existence. The first lighthouse was built by the ancient Egyptians in 290BC, said to use a giant mirror to magnify light from a constantly burning fire to guide ships to the entrance to Alexandria harbour. Fast forward to the 17th century when maritime trade boomed and so did lighthouse construction. Thousands were built around the world. There are an estimated 50,000 lighthouses in the world today. Two of those remaining lighthouses are now much-loved attractions in the Margaret River region – Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse and Cape Naturaliste Lighthouse. Situated at the most south-westerly point of Australia, Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse, built in 1895, is the tallest on mainland Australia and is at the point where the Indian Ocean meets the Southern Ocean. In the lead-up to International Lighthouse Day on the third weekend in August, I spoke to Paul Sofilas, site manager of Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse, to find out what it’s like to live and work at a lighthouse. “I live in one of the original keeper’s cottages near the lighthouse,” Paul said. “To live there, you need to manage life where the daily routine is dictated by sometimes extreme weather conditions. Living at a place which is open to the public from 8.45am to 5pm every day but Christmas day, means privacy is quite limited, so after-hours is the time for privacy.”

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He said, these days, isolation was not an issue with Cape Leeuwin being a drawcard for people from around the world of all ages. “It’s a bit like travelling but you don’t have to go anywhere - they come to you! “Tour guiding is the most rewarding part of my duties, so between meeting people in my job and quiet times after hours, you can strike a good balance. “I’ve worked in the outback at small communities so am used to isolation, though the views are definitely much better here! Having an ability to appreciate the natural environment and take pleasure from that is important.” So how did Paul get to become site manager of Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse? “I came back to visit my parents down here and started walking the Cape to Cape track, and riding my mountain bike around the area. That rediscovery of the many attributes of life here made me want to stay. A job was advertised, I applied, and was lucky to get it. While I had not worked in the tourism industry before, I was enthusiastic about the job, the region and liked dealing with people.” Paul manages the day-to-day operations of the site, which include 16 daily guided tours, a self-guided grounds tour, a visitor centre, visitor servicing and retail sales. “So administration, staffing, and of course, I still have days where I am primarily tour guiding - which is the best part. Such interaction is rewarding and no matter how long you are around, you can always learn new things and have new experiences. We have occasional events - like the Cape to Cape Mountain Bike race (which starts here most years) or International Lighthouse Day. So that adds to the excitement.

Paul’s top reasons for visiting Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse

“We are also a focal point for the greater area adjacent to the lighthouse precinct, so are sometimes involved with issues arising outside our boundaries - like emergency response or liaising with Parks and Wildlife, Fisheries, and Customs.” Paul said he loves meeting people from all walks of life, and experiencing the natural environment and its many moods. “Promoting the Capes region and contributing in some way to a sustainable and economically viable tourism industry that employs many local people is rewarding.” He said this needed to be balanced with preserving that natural environment and sense of community wherever possible. “Plus climbing quite a few steps, each day of guiding is a bonus as part of maintaining a healthy lifestyle. Meeting people and having a broad range of knowledge contributes to a healthy mind set as well!” Paul also has a deep respect for the lighthouse keepers who came before him and has gained an insight into the world of the traditional lighthouse keeper. “I was very lucky to have had a co-worker who spent his formative years as the son of a lighthouse keeper here at Cape Leeuwin in the 1950s and 60s, William Gates Jnr. “Through him I gained a respect for the keepers who worked here, life for the families that lived here and the ongoing importance of the still operational lighthouses that Cape Leeuwin (and Cape Naturaliste) are. “I have also done a lot of research, which gave me access to a lot of information and actual documents that convey their role and responsibility to not only the operation of the lighthouse, but life in general at the Cape.”

• It’s the tallest mainland lighthouse with excellent views 360 degrees from the balcony, or even from the ground level decking. • It is the south west corner of the Australian continent, where the Southern Ocean meets the Indian Ocean, and Australia’s south coast meets Australia’s west coast. It has a real ‘sense of place’. • It is still operational with many aspects of the infrastructure being original - lenses are original from 1895, the clockwork mechanism still in ‘situ’ for example. • You can experience many types of weather. We have two main weather systems - good weather and lighthouse weather - never bad weather! So you can have a real experience of nature, breathe ever so fresh air and then be sitting cosily in the cafe enjoying great coffee and food, while watching the world outside through the glass walled cafe verandah. • In winter and spring we have the whale season and you can see migrating humpback whales in either ocean, and calving southern right whales in nearby Flinders Bay. • We are open every day except Christmas Day, have really good tour guides and really like to share our unique part of the world with all who come to visit. • With many great caves in the area, you can go down below for that experience and then climb above at the lighthouse ‘a great experience at all levels’. • The drive down along Caves Road is quite special and it can give people a chance to visit Augusta and enjoy its relaxed pace of life. • To mark International Lighthouse Day, visitors can get involved with two-way radio operators who will be transmitting to all parts of the globe over the weekend. Local spinners and weavers will be displaying their skills and selling their creations. There’ll be extra interpretive information on display – check margaretriver.com for updates in the lead up. • In September, a new Interpretive Centre will open in one of the keeper’s cottages.

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www.bluemannabistro.com.au facebook.com/BlueMannaBistro

Nature & Environment Lake Cave

WHICH CAVE IS BEST FOR ME? They’re a must-see part of any visit to the region but which of the four ancient and diverse caves will suit you best? Lizzy Pepper investigates. Images byTIM CAMPBELL AND ELEMENTS MARGARET RIVER.

Which cave shall we visit?” is a question often asked. There are four caves open to the public in the Margaret River region, and each is beautiful and unique. Some are easier than others if you are with young kids, some have fewer stairs. Cave tours range from ‘at your own pace’ selfguided tours, guided tours along boardwalks to crawling and climbing adventure tours. So, whether you’re travelling with children, have limited mobility or prefer a fully guided tour, read on to find the perfect cave.

NGILGI CAVE, YALLINGUP Great for little kids, big kids, the active and adventurous Ngilgi Cave is big and beautiful, with an abundance of crystal formations to admire as you venture 36 metres underground. Tours are semi-guided, so you’ll hear about Ngilgi’s history and Aboriginal legends as you enter

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the cave. After a 10-minute introduction, you’re free to explore at your own pace – perfect for families with young kids. A second guide at the crystal touch table at the bottom of the cave can answer your questions and point out special stalactites. Children go crazy for the crawl tunnel at the cave entrance, and the record stands at around 60 loops. There are some uneven steps where little kids might need a hand, and seats if you need to catch your breath on the way back up. Fit and adventurous? Book an adventure tour where you don a hard hat and venture off the boardwalks, deeper into the wild cave.You’ll climb and squeeze through some tight spots, so it’s not for the faint hearted.

LAKE CAVE, BORANUP Great for breathtaking views and fully guided tours Lake Cave is seriously spectacular. It’s set in lush

Mammoth Cave

karri forest, has a dramatic sinkhole entrance and a ‘suspended table’ crystal decoration hanging above a permanent lake. The most actively dripping cave in the region, it’s remarkably peaceful hearing the drips. It’s the smallest but deepest cave, with 325 stairs in all. The stairways are designed so visitors only have to tackle a moderate number of stairs between rests; the scenery from the first to the last step is your stunning reward.Your guide will keep the group together as you venture through the cave, which can be a challenge for younger children, but great if you’re keen to learn. The visitor centre has a fantastic eco-interpretive centre with a simulated cave crawl tunnel.

MAMMOTH CAVE, BORANUP Great for young children, people with disabilities, German, Mandarin, French and Malay speakers Mammoth Cave is home to the Megafauna fossils – giant creatures that roamed the forest 50,000 years ago. Tasmanian devil and thylacine bones have also been unearthed. It’s a self-guided cave experience with an audio headset available. Cruise through at your own speed - you decide how many stairs to climb, from zero to a few hundred, and while you explore. let the bones and fossils on display drive your imagination. The first chamber is wheelchair accessible. There are stairs further on, and eventually you leave the cave through a doline. Finish your tour with a walk along the Marri Trail, across Caves Road and back to the car park.

Jewel Cave

JEWEL CAVE, KARRIDALE Great for families with older kids and cave enthusiasts Set among the towering karri forests near Augusta, Jewel Cave is the largest show cave in Western Australia, and home to one of the longest straw stalactites in Australia. Tours are fully guided and last for an hour, which makes it better for older kids who are happy to stay with the group. There are some tight spots where you need to duck down, but there’s fewer stairs than Ngilgi or Lake Cave. The delicate crystal formations and excellent commentary make this an educational and breathtaking experience.

TIP: book ahead, especially during school holidays. Book online or at a visitor centre margaretriverattractions.com Look out for the Megafauna Funshops which run every Tuesday and Thursday during school holidays. These hands-on workshops are aimed at primary school-aged children.

Ngilgi Cave

margaretriver.com

WINTER 2018

Nature & Environment

WALK (or run) THIS WAY There are so many stunning ways to enjoy the region, but according to Cassandra Charlick, the best way may very well be on foot.

EASY TRAILS include those that don’t take

inter time might be perfect for cosy catch-ups and roast dinners, but it is also the ideal time to get out into the fresh air and lush surrounds of the region. From sandy beaches through to rocky costal shores, sky high karri forests and native bushland and onwards to vineyards and lush farming pastures, there is an option to suit everyone from fitness fanatics to couch potatoes. Lace up those boots and running shoes and read on for some inspiration whether it is a short walk through town or a whole day coastal trek.The best part about working up a sweat on the trails in winter time? The glass of Margaret River cabernet sauvignon and cheese platter in front of the fireplace afterwards. The Cape to Cape trail is the best-known trail in the region, though it is a long-distance walking

WINTER 2018

track that is 135km in total. Definitely bucket list material for avid walkers, it requires plenty of preparation and several days set aside to walk in its entirety. There are plenty of guides (available at Visitor Centres) to help with planning; the following options include shorter walks on the trail as well as other great ideas for getting your boots dirty!

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up too much time in a holidaymakers schedule and also that don’t have too much of an incline to worry about. Ideal for those looking for a casual stroll or a light jog in the crisp winter climate. These all have bitumen underfoot or are well paved, dirt and smooth gravel trails. North Capes Meelup trail – 7km one-way coastal walk trail between Dunsborough and Eagle Bay. Canal Rocks - Short, 500m return walk for a close view of canals. Yallingup Smiths Beach Trails – A series of circuit walks centred on Yallingup townsite.   Margaret River Margaret River Heritage Trails - Short, loop

walks starting from Rotary Park, winding through forest near the river.  Prevelly Beach Path - if you are feeling particularly energetic look up to the telegraph pole and add an extra upward hike. The rewards are stunning views of the coast and the added benefit of ideal whale watching territory in the winter months Lake Cave to Contos Campsite - 1km easy path through jarrah woodland. Mammoth Cave circuit - 1km circuit from the cave entry kiosk through karri and jarrah-marri forest. Margaret River to Prevelly Beach 10km paved walk, also popular for biking Southern Capes Augusta rails to trails walk – 1.5km gentle climb along the line of the Busselton to Augusta railway. Augusta Heritage walk - 2km circuit from the Colourpatch car park, passing some of Augusta’s historical landmarks. Augusta river walk/ocean walk - Currently 5km of paved and board-walked footpath. Jewel Cave Circuit - 1km loop walk from the cave entrance through mature karri forest.

COUNTRY HOUSE HOTEL RESTAURANT | CULINARY RETREAT

NEW CULINARY BOOT CAMPS

Culinary Boot Camp - ‘Basic Training’ (1 Day course) SATURDAY 28TH JULY 9.30AM – 5.00PM Master essential skills for fabulous feasts at our Culinary Boot Camp

An intensive and hands-on cookery class designed to sharpen up your techniques and get you kitchen-fit for all dining occasions. Our Basic Training will put you through your paces, covering the fundamentals of fish, veg, meat, pastry and desserts with Chef Tony Howell and the Cape Lodge kitchen brigade.

YOUR ONE DAY BOOT CAMP INCLUDES

Welcome tea, coffee and pastries Basic knife skills and care Vegetable cookery session Seafood and shellfish selection preparation and handling Meat cookery- different cuts & preparations The art of a perfect pastry class A late Lunch with your fellow boot-campers Hands on instruction, recipes and Cape Lodge chefs apron $395pp

MEDIUM TRAILS are perfect to focus on for a day of exploring the region on foot and building up a real appetite for dinner. Expect to put aside time for a manageable hike, most are under 4km in distance. Be careful with some loose and rocky surfaces on these trails, beach sections and steep slopes. North Capes Smiths Beach to Wyadup - 2km from the south end of Smiths Beach to Canal Rocks Road, then another 2km over cliff tops to Wyadup Road. Wyadup to Injidup - 5km between the car parks. Rocky path above the cliffs with a spectacular view to Cape Clairault. Margaret River Wadandi/ Rails To Trails path - Currently constructed from Cowaramup, via Margaret River and Witchcliffe, to Calgardup Road. Margaret Rivermouth to Kilcarnup Beach Ten-Mile Brook Walk/Cycle Trail - 5km forest trail from Rotary Park to the Ten-Mile Brook Dam and picnic site.

You will return home with fantastic culinary confidence, and a whole new repertoire of dishes to recreate for family and friends.

NEW A LA CARTE MENU

French-influenced country fare showcasing fresh seafood and local produce

WINTER DAILY MENU DU JOUR SPECIAL 3 Courses with a glass of wine

$89 per person

SUNDAY HARVEST BYO DINNERS

$89pp with a glass of wine Every Sunday our chefs will prepare a 3 course share menu created from the best of local and estate grown produce. Special BYO Sundays - $10 per bottle Every Sunday

COOKING CLASS DEMONSTRATION & LUNCH Southern Capes Cosy Corner beach circuit - 3.5km circuit from Cosy Corner Beach car park has great views of the coast and offshore islands. Hamelin Bay Circuit - 4km loop walk through peppermint woodland and heath, starting from the eastern end of the caravan park. Skippy Road Rock to Clifftop Lookout - 2km path, rock-hop and beach.

ADVANCED TRAILS are a bit more of a challenge above 4km and a great option for the

Discover some kitchen tips and recipes from Chef Tony Howell followed by a superb 3 course long table lunch with wines Class commences at 11am Lunch from 1pm to 2.30pm Demonstration and Lunch with wines | $145pp Long Table Lunch only with wines | $95pp

CALENDAR

21st July 18th August 15th September 20th October

Bastille Day Class and Lunch The Last Truffle Class Spring Lamb Modern Mexican

FURTHER INFORMATION AND BOOKINGS T: 08 9755 6311 E: stay@capelodge.com.au www.capelodge.com.au

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WINTER 2018

Nature & Environment

HIKING CHECKLIST Obvious: MAP – even though some trails are easily navigated a map is always necessary. Those unexpected crossroads happen to the best of us and signposts can be tricky to spot at times. RUCK SACK – to carry all of these supplies in! Ensure that you leave no trace behind – all litter must be taken home to be disposed of. Respect the natural environment. APPROPRIATE FOOTWEAR - Sneakers are fine for a light stroll but the terrain can be slippery and rocky on many of the paths. Invest in some hiking boots and make a return trip every winter for an annual fresh air fix! HAT – broad brimmed is ideal. Even in winter the Aussie sun is harsh. SUNGLASSES – Squinting gets tiresome, and even grey skies are surprisingly bright in the great outdoors.

fitter and more experienced hikers and runners out there. Again, these surfaces can be loose and rocky, there are also beach sections and steep slopes.

WET WEATHER GEAR (if the clouds are looming) – waterproof trousers along with a raincoat can make life much more enjoyable if It is a particularly drizzly day. WATER AND SNACKS FOR THE DAY – not many pit stop opportunities in the surrounds of Mother Nature.

North Capes Cape Naturaliste Walk Network - This is a series of interconnecting loop walks from the lighthouse around the rugged Cape Naturaliste peninsula. Sugarloaf Rock to Yallingup - 5km half-day walk featuring spectacular cliff top scenery. Wilyabrup Road to Gracetown - 9km half-day walk, along clifftop paths, beach and sandy tracks.

MOBILE PHONE – Not all areas have great coverage but it is crucial to have a form of contact in case of emergency. GPS can also be handy when map reading skills might be questionable! Be sure to always advise others of your plans before heading out and what path you are travelling.

Margaret River Redgate Beach to Contos Road - 7km of fabulous beach walk and clifftop paths with stunning views. Gracetown to Ellensbrook - 4.5km clifftop walk along a soft, sandy track. Southern Capes Cozy corner road to Hamelin Bay - 5.5km of undulating sandy tracks with some steep grades, and beach walking.

TELL SOMEBODY WHERE YOU'RE GOING

ancy a stroll right on the doorstep, or a quick trail run before breakfast? There are several accommodation options in the region with easily accessible trails on their properties and nearby. Cowaramup retreat Karriview Lodge is nestled in the natural bushland and has a beautiful track on site circumnavigating the property. Start the day with a walk or jog that meanders through karri forests and surround yourself with the native wildlife including kangaroos, possums, cockatoos and blue wrens. Lace up the boots and be sure to pack the towel just in case you fancy a quick dip as it is easy to continue the trail all the way out to the sandy shores of Gracetown and sparkling ocean views from the Leeuwin Naturaliste Ridge. Yelverton Brook Eco-Chalets have cosy one and two-bedroom cottages nestled in among a 100-acre conservation sanctuary. With short and long trail options, the cottages come equipped with trail information, wildflower guidebooks, and even a ‘bird identification field guide’ so you can return from your adventures clued up on the natural fauna

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Not so obvious: SUN CREAM – the sun is harsh and sweat and backpacks rub off sun cream faster than usual. EXTRA PAIR OF SOCKS – nothing worse than wet feet if you accidentally put a foot wrong in that puddle and still have half a day to hike! TOWEL – To sit on. To dry aforementioned feet. Or in case the fresh sea water calls. TISSUES/TOILET PAPER – Wet glasses. Runny noses. Toilet debacles. The list goes on . . . LAYER UP – It’s surprising how quickly the trails build up a sweat. Nothing worse than not having a suitable option to cool down or rug up a little. MORE WATER – always pack a bit more than you think you will need. Even on cool days, perspiration causes dehydration faster than many people realise. NEVER LIGHT GROUND FIRES – only use BBQ facilities at campsites PET FRIENDLY TRAILS ARE FEW AND FAR BETWEEN - Please leave the pooch at home for most of these trails take place in nature reserves and national parks. Town walks and dog exercise beaches can be found in most towns in the region.

encountered. What to do after a long day out exploring mother nature? Each chalet has its own private hydro therapy massage spa; stargazing from a steamy outdoor spa gets the tick of approval from these tired feet! There are plenty of opportunities for the runners visiting the region to keep up the training too. Park-Runners will be excited to hear of the Margaret River group that has recently taken up residence in town. From 8am on Saturday mornings, Rotary Park has a 5km timed loop run manned by volunteers who welcome out-of-towners to join in for a postrun coffee at the Hairy Marron. It’s free to join, all that is required is registration before turning up with your running shoes on. Further details atparkrun.com.au/margaretriver/ Margaret River Trail Runners is another local organisation who welcome visitors to their Saturday morning runs for a $2 donation to the social club. Ranging from 8-14km these routes are a little more challenging and set off at 7am from a different location each week within a 20km radius of the town site. Most runs are loops and it is a great chance to meet other runners in the region and catch up for coffee or breakfast afterwards. Check the website for full details and for upcoming routes. Visit

mrtrailrunners.org.au/saturdays.shtml Janet Smith (of Australian Ninja Warrior fame) holds running workshops to help build strength and technique. Janet’s running experience as one of Australia’s leading elite female OCR athletes along with coaching and mentorship from some of Australia’s best athletes, coaches or fitness professionals will help you no matter how far into your running journey you are. “Trail running is a great way for runners to inject fresh energy into their runs and have fun exploring the natural world," says Janet. Let’s be honest: as adults, we still need time to play, and the promise of adventure lies just beyond the treeline. If you’ve never ventured off-road, you’re in for a treat.” Her new RunStrong program covers a range of fitness levels from beginners through to advanced runners and drop-ins are always welcome if you are here visiting region. She notes, “For the trail newbie, there are a few things to consider before grabbing your water bottle and heading into woods. As the trails offer uneven or slippery terrain underfoot it is important to learn a few technique tips and also ensure you have a base level of leg strength to ensure you remain injury free on your adventures.” Visit mocean.com.au

Further reading available from local visitor centres Cape to Cape by Ray Forma and Jane Scott Walking round in Circles by Jane Scott Cape to Cape large maps and short trails booklet

Getting there is half the fun Kick back, relax and explore the scenic Margaret River region on one of our luxury road coaches. Leave your car at home and enjoy WA’s stunning South West with Transwa instead. You get to unwind and enjoy the scenery while we do the driving. Our five-star road coaches are fully accessible and air conditioned, with on board entertainment, USB ports and toilet facilities. We travel between Margaret River and Perth 12 times a week, and offer a variety of concession discounts. Plan your journey by visiting transwa.wa.gov.au or call 1300 662 205.

Bringing WA closer

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Active & adventure

Making Winter in Margaret River means big surf. Dianne Bortoletto chats with Mick Corbett and John Dutton to uncover what it takes to be a big wave surfer.

here’s 135 kilometres of coastline from Busselton to Augusta with no fewer than 75 surf breaks that produce extraordinary waves. Waves so good that they attract the world’s best who travel the globe following the big swell. In fact, it’s considered to be one of the most consistent big wave surf places on the planet. There’s kudos that comes with riding big waves and awards for those who conquer them. Mick Corbett, who lives in Dunsborough, took out the 2016 Oakley Ride Of The Year award on a wave known as The Right in Walpole (three hours south east of Margaret River) earning $20,000 in prize money. Mick told Surfing Australia: “Jarryd [towing me on a jetski] turned around to me with a big

grin and said, ‘don’t even look at it, it’s big!’ So I didn’t really look at the wave as I was being towed in, I just looked down the line and tried to put myself in a perfect position. I didn’t really know what was going on behind me; I was just trying to position myself to get barrelled. I didn’t realise how big it was until I got back into the channel and all of the photographers were shaking their heads in disbelief calling it the biggest wave they have ever seen out there.” That wave, The Right, certainly was big that day at between 30 and 40ft, but it’s the sheer power of that wave that makes it so tricky to surf. “What I love about big-wave surfing is the adventure and the thrill of it. No session is the same.You track these swells for weeks and then you make a call whether to pursue them,” the

30-year-old said. “Then you go and chase the swell and a lot of these swells take you to some of the most beautiful places in the world. Then you get there, you generally know most of the people there and you’re watching the ocean do some crazy things.You could sit there all day watching, it’s mesmerising.” It might be mesmerising to Mick, but the thought of trying to survive on a monstrous moving mountain of water that could crush bones or throw you around like a washing machine or worse, is frightening to many. Does he ever get scared? “Yeah for sure I get scared, nearly every time I go out I get nervous. But after you have had a couple of waves you really get in sync with the

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POWER PLAY Mick Corbett, below, says that Cow Bombie offshore west of Gracetown is the biggest and gnarliest wave in Austrlia.

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Active & adventure Learn from the best If you want to get started or learn better surf skills and technique, then take a lesson with Margaret River Surf School. There’s group and private lessons for beginners to advanced, surf guides, surf camps and high performance surf coaching. margaretriversurfschool.com

GNARLY RIPS It's possible to surf during winter in the Margaret River region and experience some truly memorable moments. Image by John Dutton.

ocean and then you can really start opening up your surfing and charging the biggest waves that come through. “It is the best feeling in the world to ride a big wave - no other activity or person can make you feel the way you do when you're out there.” Mick says that the biggest break in the Margaret River region that fires in winter is Cow Bombie, located two kilometres offshore west of Gracetown. “It’s the biggest and gnarliest wave in Australia but it requires the right swell for it to break,” Mick said. “The biggest wave I have ever surfed in the Margaret River region, and in fact in Australia, was at Cow Bombie in 2014. That was the biggest day I have ever seen out there, it was around 60 foot and the cleanest. It was also when I rode the biggest barrel I have surfed.” What words of advice would you give an upand-coming surfer who wants to ride big waves? “Just surf the waves you want. And work your way to bigger waves. Also make sure you have

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It is the best feeling in the world to ride a big wave – no other activity can make you feel the way you do when you're out there.

the right mentality about it.” Big waves can be board-breakers. John Dutton who works as a sander at Nathan Rose Surfboards and runs Margaret River Surf Board Repairs has seen plenty. “Right now looking around, there’s three 10foot guns [surf boards] snapped in half, all from the big swell that came through on weekend,” John, 45, said.

“You become immune to bigger surf living here. I would say consistently the waves are six to eight foot, which some people consider big. Around here, it has to be 10-foot plus before it’s considered big. “It doesn’t matter how long you’ve been surfing, it’s scary each time. But it’s so enjoyable to go out in big surf, catch a wave and come in unscathed. Chasing the adrenalin rush. It’s not for everyone, I’ve got guys who’ve come in, they’re all amped, they buy a big board, go out to Cow Bombie and catch a big wave, then they realise it’s not for them. “It takes a long time to build up to that level where you feel comfortable to be in the wrong place at the wrong time. If you’re surfing big waves, sooner or later you’re going to get caught inside and have 15-foot wave land on your head. “I was out on a 10-foot day, caught the wave, straightened off and ended up rumbling around in the white wash. My board speared me in the back, fractured my ribs, and I didn’t know it at the time, but it punctured my lung. I tried to paddle

it off, but knew I’d done something bad. I paddled in and rang my mate Phil Chapman who started up Surfing Doctors - he also works in emergency in Busselton. He could tell by the way I was trying to talk that I’d punctured my lung and instructed me to get to hospital as quickly as I could. So I drove myself. As soon as I got in to hospital, they ripped off my wetty and treated me straight away. I was in hospital for a couple of days. That would’ve been my worst injury.” John said that popular big-wave surf breaks include Mainbreak at Surfers Point, Boat Ramps (Gnarabup) and Cow Bombie. “Boat Ramps is popular when it’s between 10 and 15 foot, but there’s only a handful of days a year when it’s rideable, when the wind and swell are in the right direction,” he said. “When the swell is forecast to be big, there’ll be hype and a big buzz around the place, people are so onto forecasting, sometimes planning their surf two weeks out. The big surf attracts people to the region, people do chase it.” What advice would you give to someone who had aspirations to be a big wave surfer? “I’d say don’t surf Mainbreak if you’re starting out and inexperienced because it’s such a heavy wave. Try any sort of bigger wave on an outer reef spot. Surf smaller swell first, like six to eight foot,” said John, who is also an event director for Foamlust surf festival held each Autumn. “Get the right equipment and ride bigger boards when the surf ’s small so you get used to the board - it’s very different to surf an eight or ten-foot board than a short board.You don’t want to find out how different the board feels when you’ve got a 15-foot wave about fall on your head!” You'll probably also need a mega dose of courage.

DISCOVER THE ULTIMATE OLIVE OIL EXPERIENCE

SOAP | GOURMET FOOD | SKIN CARE | WORKSHOPS

Get the gear As they say themselves, ‘all gear, all year’. Get some expert advice and get kitted up with everything you’ll need at Hillzeez. There are stores in Busselton, Margaret River, Albany and two stores in Bunbury. .hillzeez.com.au

SOAP FACTORY & WORKSHOPS 135 Puzey Road, Wilyabrup WA | Ph. (08) 9755 6111

Open daily (bookings essential for workshops)

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Active & adventure

y a l p p o t s t ’ n s e o d Rain

It’s bucketing down, and the kids are on a sugar high thanks to those amazing Margaret River Bakery cruffins. You don’t want to brave the weather, so check out these awesome indoor activities the whole family can enjoy. Tried and tested by Lizzy Pepper, her hubby and kids. NGILGI CAVE If Ngilgi Cave offered annual passes, we’d sign up in a heartbeat. This ancient cave is beautifully decorated with stalactites, stalagmites, a fairy cave and a crawl tunnel that our girls go nuts for. Semi-guided tours depart every half hour, and the guide shares some history and the Indigenous story of Wolgine as you enter the cave. After a 10-minute intro, you’re free to explore the cave at your own pace – perfect for impatient youngsters. There’s plenty of stairs to wear everyone out. Visiting with a baby? Bring a baby carrier you can wear on your front. There’s a great little shop with science-themed toys and ice creams. Open from 9am daily, first tour 9.30am, last tour 4pm. 76 Yallingup Caves Rd,Yallingup. $22.50 Adult, $12.50 Child, $58 2 Ad/2Ch. Bookings recommended: margaretriverattractions.com/caves/ ngilgi-cave/

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DISCOVER DEADLY (NATURALISTE REPTILE PARK) Enthusiastic staff share their love of reptiles and amphibians at this excellent little reptile park. There’s plenty of deadly critters here, like Harry the saltwater crocodile, tiger snakes, red back and white-tailed spiders which are all safely enclosed behind glass. The girls were gobsmacked watching Harry at feeding time. You’ll also see plenty of non-deadly creatures such as frogs, turtles and geckos, and various animals come out for handling including a variety of snakes and lizards Test your mettle by holding a non-venomous python; either a beautifully striped Woma, carpet or Stimson’s Python. 10 Wildwood Road, Carbunup River. $15 Adult, $10 Child. Open 10am-4pm Thursday to Sunday, daily during school holidays. Last entry 3pm.

PLAY TIME There's no need to despair if the heavens open - there are plenty of fun things to do indoors with the kids, including getting up close and personal with lizards at Discover Deadly (above)..

EMERGING ARTISTS + FINE ART + ART OBJECTS + JEWELLERY

GAME ON AND ON It’s easy to spend an hour in Margaret River’s new game arcade. There’s a great mix of old and new games the whole family will love – foosball, pinball machines, 80 retro arcade titles and a four- player Sega Rally, alongside virtual two reality booths. There’s 60 virtual reality games to choose from - you could ride a rollercoaster or play table tennis - and you’ll find something ageappropriate for your kids. Keen on golf? They have an indoor virtual driving range, so bring your clubs and practice your swing. Open 12pm-6pm weekdays, 10am-6pm weekends and public holidays. 1/111 Bussell Highway, Margaret River.

COUNTRY LIFE FARM There’s so much on offer here, in addition to feeding the many animals. Undercover entertainment comprises a bouncy castle, merry go round and huge soft play area. Entry includes carrots, and as it was raining we went straight to feed the chickens, guinea pigs and rabbits in their big undercover pen. Roosters crowed, and colourful parrots flew overhead.

Outside, a galah and Major Mitchell cockatoo squawked hello, much to our daughters’ delight. You can pay a little extra for a ride on the dodgem cars or the 12D cinema ride. If the rain clears take a rowboat on the lake and feed the bigger animals. There’s some gentle sheep, goats, donkeys, ponies plus a cheeky alpaca and llama who may try to steal your carrot bucket. Pop next door to Clancy’s Fish Pub for a great lunch afterwards. Open 9.30am-5pm daily. $20 Adult, $18 Child. 1694 Caves Rd, Dunsborough.

GRAVITY ETC “Are we there yet?” Break up the drive home with an hour at Gravity Etc, an awesome indoor trampolining and play centre near Bunbury. Pop on a pair of grippy socks and bounce, tumble, balance and flip your way around 1,800sqm of wall-to-wall trampolines in seven different zones. We loved it all – the trampoline zone, the gladiator-style battle above a foam pit, and the flying leap onto a billowy surface.

TIP: either time your arrival for 15 minutes before the hour, as each session starts on the hour or grab a snack in the in-house café while you wait. Check website for opening hours. Bookings recommended. gravityetc.com.au $17 per person, $14 per person off peak. 43 Norton Promenade, Dalyellup.

EXHIBITION OF NEW WORKS BY JON CHALLEN + KEN WADROP + JANE MARTIN 7 July – 11 August 2018 Renowned WA artists return with stunning small works of local scenes and spaces. Postcards of time.

Shop 4, 1 Charles West Avenue P 9757 2729 E info@margaretrivergallery.com.au W margaretrivergallery.com.au

Active & adventure

Forest folk You’ll find more than just the pristine beauty of an ancient woodland at Boranup Forest. There’s plenty for art lovers to enjoy too says Zoe Deleuil.

wander into Boranup Forest is an unmissable experience when visiting the Margaret River region. Light falls evenly between the pale trunks of karri trees, so the forest appears lit from within, yet cool and shaded. At the bases of the soaring trees are tiny wildflowers, and if you’re lucky you might see the bright blue flicker of a fairy wren darting overhead. For Alan Meyburgh, the forest is a source of both inspiration and purpose. He combines his work as an MRBTA conservation manager with his passion for sculpting raw steel and upcycled materials. “It’s the perfect combination,” he says. “Four days a week I’m looking after the caves and educating visitors, and one day a week I’m here.” Alan spent his childhood on a farm in South Africa, followed by stints in Dubai and Perth, and now lives in Cowaramup with his wife and two children. “We used to come down on holidays and eventually made the move here in 2012. My wife is a city girl and I grew up on a farm, so this a good compromise – it’s a wonderful community, but you’re still in the country.You can be in the thick of it in Margaret River, then drive 10 minutes and you’re in the middle of nature.”

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His studio, just outside Margaret River, is signposted with a huge sculpture of a fish trap, woven with metal and odd pieces of rope. “All of this rope was washed up on the beach, and collected during the regular litter pick-ups we do as a family. My intention is to create awareness about conservation and caring for the environment.” His megafauna sculptures are also familiar to visitors at Lake Cave and the visitor’s centre in Margaret River. “These creatures lived in the forest up to 50,000 years ago, and lots of their fossils were found in the caves. I was commissioned in 2014 to create the sculptures, both to educate people and celebrate these amazing creatures, which include a giant wombat, or zygomaturus, and a meat-eating ‘super possum’known as a marsupial lion. It’s so important to integrate conservation into tourism.” For Alan, Boranup Forest is a constant source of inspiration. “For me, the bush is primarily a support system for wildlife – the ringtail possums, cockatoos and reptiles that live here, among many others. It’s a beautiful place visually and I feel protected when I’m in it – there’s such a strong connection between how it looks and how it functions as a place of refuge.”

MORE FOREST INSPO Gallery stop Just off Caves Road, Boranup Gallery is a colourful pitstop after driving south through the forest. Built by owner James Howieson in 1988, the cavernous rammed-earth gallery houses furniture hewn from marri, jarrah, karri and other local timbers, often sourced from forest floors, demolition sites and paddock trees knocked over in storms. James and his team make all the furniture on site, and there’s also artwork, jewellery and small gifts on sale. The adjoining cafe has home-style cooking, friendly service and a sheltered outdoor area for taking in the fresh forest air. boranupgallery.com 7981 Caves Road, Margaret River Phone: 08 9757 7585 Open daily 10am-4pm.

Forest read For one local mother and daughter, family walks in Boranup Forest were not just a chance to spend time together but also an opportunity for creative collaboration in the form of a charming picture book, Bree’s Forest Adventures. Published by Margaret River Press, the book is written

by Miriam Wei Wei Lo and illustrated by her teenage daughter, Emily-Rose Lochore. It tells the story of a young girl’s walk through the Boranup Forest in search of the rare Karri spider orchid, and makes a beautiful gift or memento of a holiday here. Available from the Margaret River Press online bookshop (margaretriverpress.com) or Margaret River Visitor Centre.

Flower art Plant lovers and artists alike will appreciate the intricate watercolour illustrations in the Field Guide to the Wildflowers of Australia’s South West, first published in 2002 and available at Margaret River Bookshop.With text by Jane Scott and some 500 wildflower illustrations by local artist Patrica Negus, the volume gives you a sense of the incredible biodiversity of the Leeuwin-Naturaliste National Park and the region. You can also see 100 of the artist’s original illustrations at the hand-built mud brick Chapel of Flowers, which is part of the Swallow’s Welcome Art Studio, where Patricia continues to work – her work has also been printed onto linen which is available to buy from Margaret River Visitor Centre. Visit capetocapepublishing.com.au/ Swallows/Chapel.html 542 Wallis Road, East Witchcliffe 08 9757 6348 (call in advance).

It’s a beautiful place visually and I feel protected when I’m in it - Alan Meyburgh, artist

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Active & adventure

GO FORTH AND DISCOVER THE BRAND NEW BMW X2 SHOULD BE THE CAR OF CHOICE FOR ANYONE ON A MARGARET RIVER WINE TOUR, AS MATTHEW MILLS DISCOVERED.

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o be handed the keys of the X2 was an honour, knowing as I did that I was going to be one of the first journalists to put this wonderful new addition to BMW’s spectacular SUV stable through its paces. It was even more special knowing that I would get to put this beauty through its paces along one of the most beautiful highways in WA - Caves Road. Leaving after a big breakfast in our weekendaway bolthole, my wife and I pulled out into the morning chill of Margaret River full of expectation and excitement for a day of cruising the region’s beautiful wineries. We were both looking forward to the day immensely, but for the first time in a long while I was happy to be designated driver, leaving my better half to be on wine-tasting duties - the promise of putting the X2 through its paces even more of a draw than sampling a few good reds. The last time I’d been behind the wheel of one of the German auto giant’s new releases so soon after its launch date was nearly two decades ago, just after the ground-breaking X5 had been introduced to an awestruck world.

That iconic machine, BMW’s first SUV, marked the beginning of a remarkable success story that has seen the X Series establish itself well and truly as a world leader in the genre. It was followed by the sporty X3, then the big, butch X6, the small but beautifully formed X1 and, four years ago, the superb X4, so to see just how the X2 was going fit into this allconquering dynasty had had my heart pumping as I crossed Auto Classic’s forecourt towards my deep gold review car a couple of days before. First impressions instantly confirmed BMW’s assurance that the X2 was born to be the “cool X”. It’s a coupe, of course, and presents itself as the X4 and X6’s even more handsome little brother. There’s still that aggressive, pugnacious even, styling that the bigger coupes boast, but the X2 has an unquestionably sportier look. Tech-heads will tell you that it shares much of its technology with the X1, but the two cars have very different personalities. The X2 is a touch shorter, but a little bit wider and lower, and, with its upside down kidney grille, double exhausts and BMW badging on the C-pillar

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ROAD MASTER The BMW X2 is deceptively quick, with an engine that's capable of taking you from a standing start to 100km/h in just 7.7 seconds.

harking back to cool retro times, is definitely the funkier cousin, the extrovert. Inside, however, the X2 feels spacious and comfortable, belying its positioning in the compact SUV bracket. As we later packed our luggage into the spacious boot, my wife and I both knew the drive south was going to be one of supreme comfort. The sports front seats hug both driver and passenger and the dashboard is comfortingly BMW, boasting the wonderful tech set-up that the brand’s devotees have come to love. The

6.5-inch touchscreen, home of the sat nav and reversing camera, sits proudly front and central and the 10-watt stereo entertainment system is magnificent enough to satisfy even the most meticulous aficionado. As you’d expect, the X2’s also all ready and waiting to hook up with your smartphone.The back seats too are roomy and comfortable, big enough for most grown-ups to be able to enjoy a long freeway run. All in all, the cabin feels luxurious and top end, everything we’ve come to expect from the X Series, and once on the road it ticks all the boxes too.

The sDrive20i has a two-litre turbo-petrol, four cylinder engine which produces 141kw of power and 280Nm torque, which is plenty of grunt for what is essentially a small car. It picks up, then, beautifully, accelerating in a commanding but safe way, giving the assurance that it’s going to do whatever it is that you want it to do. Fuel wise, it’s not going to break you at the bowser, averaging around 7.5 litres/100km. The X2’s diminutive dimensions come into their own while cornering – making it the perfect machine in which to negotiate the twists and turns of beautiful Caves Road. It felt like it was on rails, hugging the tarmac with complete confidence. It is also deceptively quick, that engine easily capable of taking you from a standing start to 100km/h in just 7.7 seconds, but on our wine tour I was more than happy to take it easy. After all, this a car that just wants to take you to your destination in style, comfort and, most importantly, safety. Its tech quietly keeps a watching brief around you, gently nudging the wheel should you stray out of lane and keeping a watchful eye out for tailgaters or miscreants sneaking up on your inside. BMW’s heads-up display – a wonderful piece of tech which projects vital info such as current speed and speed limits onto the windscreen in front of the driver – makes life even easier as you don’t ever need to take your eyes off the road. It is, in fact, a comfortingly safe car to be inside, boasting the maximum five-star ANCAP rating and packed with tech to look out for its most precious cargo, including stop-andgo adaptive cruise control, that lane-keeping assistance, autonomous emergency braking with pedestrian detection at urban speeds and semiautomated parking assistance. We were out all day, taking in the sights and as we headed back to our holiday home, the sun set, letting us really appreciate the LED lights front and rear that lit the way, cutting through the darkness spectacularly. The X2, then is a remarkable new addition to BMW’s wonderful X Series. While the next X we’ll see has a very distinct raison d’etre – the X7, set to go on sale next year will tackle the busy big 7-seater SUV market – the X2 was charged with making itself a unique addition. It has accomplished this challenge in spades, bringing the series a small, sporty, funky, cool coupe SUV that combines fun and excitement with luxury and the sheer driving excellence that has long been BMW’s forte. The X2 sDrive20i launch variant, which is available from Auto Classic now, will be joined by the X2 sDrive18i and range-topping X2xDrive20d in mid-2018. margaretriver.com

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GRAVEL GRINDERS T

he Tour of Margaret River’s SEVEN event is Western Australia’s wildest cycling race. The off-road race spans 124km of Blackwood Valley forestry tracks, beginning in Nannup it charts a course through the fearsomely-named Chainsaw Ridge and Glacier Valley, and riders must climb over 2,500 vertical metres to get to the finish line. Cycling tourism has increased exponentially in recent years, says Paul Iles from Margaret River bike café, The Hairy Marron. Gravelbiking, bike-packing and other kinds of off-road adventure riding have emerged as some of the fastest growing brands of the sport, and Paul says the Margaret River region is a hotspot for those seeking adventure. “Cycling is one of the fastest growing sports around the world. It’s a very inclusive sport, and it’s particularly popular in Margaret River and surrounds because we are blessed with a lot of

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GO OFF ROAD ON SOME CHALLENGING BIKE TRACKS AND EXPLORE SOME OF THE REGION’S MOST STUNNING SCENERY. BY TOM DE SOUZA.

natural beauty within close proximity,” he says. While Paul has noticed the number of touring cyclists boom in Margaret River, the benefits include thatcycling tourism is slowly expanding to surrounding towns, like Nannup and Pemberton, which have suffered an economic downturn in recent years. In 2017 the closure of Nannup’s timber mill - once the town’s primary industry - saw $9 million of wages leave with it, and event organiser Brendan Morrison says cycling tourism is an effective means of revitalising Western Australia’s south west. “This is really one of the best destinations in Australia for cyclists. There are so many natural assets; there are really good roads with low traffic volume, and there are also 1000km of forestry tracks that are very rarely used. These are very beautiful unsealed roads, running through thousands of acres of forest, and through cycling

they can really be utilised,” he says. “This is an international event, we do have international riders, but we haven’t completely taken this event onto the worldwide stage yet. We’re working on building this up, but we don’t have the resources or the funding to be able to grow it to a level where we can really showcase the Margaret River region through this event to the rest of the world.” Similar cycling tourism experiments have already been trialled in other parts of Australia with marked success. Last year, the addition of a $3.1 million cycling trail transformed the Tasmanian ex-mining town of Blue Derby from a ghost town to a boom town, adding an estimated $30 million of revenue per year to the economy. Cyclist and SEVEN event participant Rod Annears says the cycling experience is as much about communal belonging and peripheral

RED ROADS The Tour of Margaret River's SEVEN event is not for the fainthearted, reqiring riders to climb over 2,5000 vertical metres during the race.

activities as the riding. And while Margaret River has one of the best scenes in Australia, there is unlimited potential in surrounding areas to develop cycling tourism and showcase Western Australia to the world. “There is a real community evolving around the scene. The community that builds up around the activity is what attracts people, the whole idea of sharing that experience with others. It’s great we’ve got events like this, and it’s great to see mountain biking grow,” he says. “Margaret River is one of the few places that have really got everything together. The whole town, the cafés, the places to eat and breweries – that’s what makes up the mountain biking scene. You have to focus on the experience and choose beautiful. There is real opportunity in Western Australia, we’ve got the landscape, amazing forests, and some great little country towns that really need a boost.” The Tour of Margaret River features two major events, SEVEN is an off-road race in May, and there is a road racing stage tour in November. Brendan conceptualised the race in 2009, shortly after he took up cycling. He was inspired to ride after watching Cadel Evans win the Tour de France, and in his first year in the saddle he participated in 40 events, before

deciding to create his own. “For two years, me and a small team studied every other cycling event, and tried to design something from the ground up that is totally different and accommodating. All other cycling events were either serious racing, or just participation rides. So we tried to combine those, and create something that is a race, but everyone can be in it without being a serious racer,” he says. “This event is quite different to anything else you see around. For a start, it’s a pro-am format, so you’ve got amateurs competing alongside professionals. That format is quite unique to cycling. It’s also a team-based event, so all the riders are working together and trying to achieve everything as a team. “Hopefully, we can grow this event to a level where we can really showcase the Margaret River region to the rest of the world.” Visit tourofmargaretriver.com/seven/ margaretriver.com

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Active & adventure

RITES OF

PASSAGE

Year 12 students from all over the country look forward to Leavers with keen anticipation. Tom de Souza discovers why Dunsborough and Busselton are such good choices for this important transition from student to school leaver. 80

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FUN TIMES Leavers Week is eagerly anticipated by many school leavers, and Dunsborough is a particularly popular choice thanks to its well-organised activities and great accommodation options.

AT PULLMAN BUNKER BAY RESORT

PULLMAN PRESENTS: VASSE FELIX WINE DINNER SATURDAY, 14 JULY 2018 $150* PER PERSON Taste your way around the South West in a distinctive evening of fine food and wine. 5-course menu showcasing renowned local produce. Paired wines by Estate Sommelier, Evan Gill.

or today’s generation, Leavers Week (or Schoolies) is one of the most momentous of a young person’s life. It’s an annual celebration held in November each year at the conclusion of the final Year 12 school exams, and most graduates from WA opt to celebrate their new found freedom at one of three official Leavers destinations: Rottnest, Dunsborough or Bali. Of these, Dunsborough is the most popular. The town has long been an established holiday locale, but in recent years Leavers Week has emerged as a contemporary cultural ritual and official celebrations have found a home here. This year, roughly 9,000 revellers are expected to descend upon the town.

On each of the four nights, the party is hosted at an entertainment precinct known as ‘The Zone’. There is a silent disco, a pamper tent, and a PlayStation area. School leavers are assisted by volunteers and support services, and Red Frog’s South West WA co-ordinator Hayden Glass says it’s this infrastructure that makes Dunsborough the most popular choice for school leavers and their parents. “One of the most attractive parts of Dunsborough is that it’s the safest place to party. When you’ve got a leavers zone with support services in place, it’s the safest place to go and there is a lot of infrastructure around that. That definitely puts a lot of parents minds at ease. Overseas, at places like Bali, it’s a different

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OUR WORLD IS YOUR PLAYGROUND

Active & adventure WILD THINGS The Red Frogs organisation are on hand to make sure things go smoothly and safely for visiting youngsters, many of whom will be holidaying without adults for the first time.

culture, different judicial system, and kids are really left to their own devices,” he says. Most school leavers opt to stay in Dunsborough, or surrounding areas like Yallingup or Busselton. From here, a bus service connects them to the party and helps them to travel safely between destinations. Accommodation options range from private dwellings, backpackers, motels, and local caravan parks. Dunsborough Lakes Caravan Park is one of the most popular places for leavers to stay. Each year it’s booked exclusively by 800 to 1,200 school leavers – or roughly 10 to 15 per cent of the entire Dunsborough Leavers population – and Caravan Park owner Herbie says school leavers favour Dunsborough over other destinations for the vast array of activities offered in the area. “The location is unique, with everything within very close range. You have surf, the beach, shops, you can go inland, and there are

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wineries. There is a lot the kids can do to keep themselves amused, and The Zone isn’t far from here. It’s probably the best catered for of all the destinations,” he says. I was a school leaver just six years ago. I remember the anticipation building up over the year, and the stratospheric levels of excitement once it finally arrived. I camped in the Margaret River region with a group of friends, and the

services provided to us were excellent: there were volunteers on the ground looking out for us, and the police were amicable and appreciative of our circumstances, so long as we toed the line. Things have changed since then. In 2005 the school leaving age was raised, and in 2013 the first cohort of students graduated, who were aged 18. They could drive, and legally drink, and while this may have raised concerns for many

parents, Hayden says Leavers has actually become safer in the years since. “We’ve definitely notice Leavers is a lot safer since the schooling age was raised. The whole novelty of binge drinking has worn off for these older kids. Still, only 40% are over 18; there are still a large proportion who are underage. They are still experimenting, and we are there to make sure their ok. We’re one of the teams that provide infrastructure to the zone, and we work alongside police to bring the whole thing together,” he says Schoolies was believed to have been initiated in 1976 by Geoff Lewis, then manager of the Gold Coast’s Broadbeach Hotel. Geoff was tasked with finding innovative ways to drum up business on during the quiet Christmas period, and sent to find new ideas at a hotel conference in Chicago. While in America he travelled to Spring Break celebrations in Florida, and after one look he decided to do something similar back home. The first year of unofficial schoolies celebrations was a roaring success. Thousands of college and university students then flocked to the Broadbeach International Hotel to cut loose in the expansive

enclosed pool and beer garden. The bar doubled its weekly beer sales to more than 400 18 gallon kegs, and countless shots of liquor flowed freely. A few years later, around 1979, other establishments clued onto and cashed in on the idea. Schoolies Week events were officially organised in 1980, and since then, the tradition has evolved into a cultural rite of passage. 2018 will be the 17th time Hayden will return to volunteer at leavers celebrations. While he’s watched leavers celebrations change shape over the years, he says the cultural significance of the event has remained the same over many generations. “Leavers is definitely a rite of passage. For generations, school-leaving kids have been doing some sort of celebration. It looks a bit different now to 30 or 40 years ago, but one thing that’s stayed the same is that for a lot of kids this is the last time they’re going to be with all their mates in the one place. “After leavers, a lot of people go off and do their own thing. This is kind of their first taste of freedom and a celebration of their last moments in school.” Visit redfrogs.com

Schoolies was believed to have been initiated in 1976 by Geoff Lewis, a Gold Coast hotel manager

JAGUAR

JUST LANDED IN BUNBURV www.bunbury.jaguar.com.au www.bunbury.land rover.com.au

08 9780 9233

3 Sandridge Road - Bunbury WA

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83 DL27109

Active & adventure

Wilyabrup Wonderland DISCOVER MARGARET RIVER’S BEST KEPT SECRET, THE WILYABRUP CLIFFS. BY LIZZY PEPPER.

ou never forget your first glimpse of the Wilyabrup Cliffs. Standing 40 metres proud, they glow red against the whitewash of the surging ocean. The amazing thing is few people know they exist. The cliffs are naturally stunning, and it’s easy to see why Natalie Imbruglia chose to spend her one day off in the south west here, why Jeremy Clarkson didn’t want to leave, and why it’s the place to propose… Here’s five ways to experience the incredible Wilyabrup Cliffs for yourself.

WARNING: the cliffs are 40 metres high and can be dangerous, especially during winter when gusty winds make it risky at the top. Visit with a professional guide who can help keep you safe. Stay clear of the edge, and please don’t bring children.

An Exhilarating Aerial view with Scenic Helicopters

Hands down the most exhilarating way to check out this glorious coastline is in a helicopter. It’s

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even more fun with the doors off – better photo opportunities, too. Jackson McLeod from Scenic Helicopters takes guests over the Wilyabrup Cliffs most days. “You can usually see a team of abseilers or rock climbers testing their skills against the rock as you fly over. Nearby Willyabrup beach is a hangout for pods of local dolphins, which are also amazing to see from above, playing in the surf, cavorting and rolling belly side up or herding schools of migrating salmon to feed on.” Sadly, Jackson’s R44 helicopter is in Broome right now, ferrying guests to and from Willie Creek Pearl Far. He’ll be back in Margaret River in spring, so put this top of your list. scenichelicopters.com.au

Discovery Tour with Margaret River Discovery Company Sean Blocksidge has been taking his wine and adventure tour guests to Wilyabrup for years. “It’s my favourite place in the world. So much so, I got engaged out there! It’s thrilling on a winter day when the storms are blasting off

the ocean and wind roaring up over the cliffs,” says Sean Sean takes guests to the north side of the cliffs for a spectacular view. This section lights up with wildflowers during spring and an epic whale and dolphin spotting opportunity with cliff top views. I asked Sean about memorable moments at the cliffs. “I once flew over it in a helicopter and watched a southern right whale giving birth and being harassed by a great white shark. We herded the shark off with the helicopter and then a pod of dolphins turned up to manage the maternity ward for the night.“ “I once had Jeremy Clarkson from Top Gear out there and he refused to move for about 30 minutes. Just sitting watching dozens of passing whales while he was sucking up the fresh air and purifying his cigarette-filled lungs.” margaretriverdiscovery.com.au,West Australian Guide of the Year – Golden Guide 2010

Abseil with Margaret River Climbing Co

Experience heart-pounding heights by lowering yourself backwards over the edge with the abseiling experts. I loved that white-knuckle minute as you go from upright to horizontal, when the roar of the ocean is amplified as it echoes off the rock face. Mick Dempsey from Margaret River Climbing Company takes groups climbing and abseiling at Wilyabrup Cliffs, and beginners are welcome. Starting at the bottom, you’ll climb four routes on the wall, then hike up and abseil down – once, twice, maybe three times if you’re keen. Asked about unforgettable moments, Mick recalls the day Natalie Imbruglia came for a private tour and taught him to take a selfie. “Nat was challenged and sweating and swearing at me, but she triumphed and had a ball.” Mick also helped Sean Blocksidge (above) propose to his now-wife, Erin, midway through

IMAGES BY TIM CAMPBELL

an abseil. Stranded on a ledge on the pretext of getting a photo, Sean popped the question. “Of course, trapping her on a ledge was a pretty good way to ensure he got the answer he wanted!” laughs Mick. margaretriverclimbingco.com.au

Eight-Day Guided Tour with Cape to Cape Explorer Tours

Gene Hardy offers an eight-day guided Cape to Cape Track walk with accommodation, meals, and cave and winery visits. Guests see the cliffs for about 3 hours, as they hike in from the north. I asked Gene what he loves best about the Wilyabrup Cliffs. “I actually love the staircase that heads up the north end of the cliffs, the way the stainless steel and jarrah construction complements the granite and the lovely outlook from there. We sit and have morning tea on the staircase and just take it all in,” he says. Surprisingly, Wilyabrup’s not Gene’s favourite part of the Cape to Cape.“My favourite part of the track is between Redgate Beach and Boranup Forest. The amazing beach, cliffs, caves and forests combine to give an incredible diversity in this walk, no kilometre is the same!”

UNFORGETTABLE MEMORIES Whether you follow in Jeremy Clarkson's footsteps and just take in the views, or go for something a little more adrenaline-indusing, Wilyabrup cliffs are amazing.

Gene and his team picked up a swag of awards last year in ecotourism and Chinese tourism, and it’s easy to understand why. capetocapetours.com.au

DIY Cape to Cape Track Walk Another great way to see the Wilyabrup Cliffs – and the whole 135km stretch of coast – is to do your own Cape to Cape Track walk. There’s two excellent resources both with detailed maps and instructions; the Cape to

Cape Track Guidebook, which you can buy at the visitor centres and lighthouses, and the Cape to Cape Track Guide app on the App Store and Google Play – it’s the one with a white boot on an orange background. App co-founder Rhonda Oshanek says the Moses Rock to Gracetown section is one of the most picturesque, a great reward after a challenging beach walk. “If you can time your hike to be at Wilyabrup Cliffs for a nice sunset, the change in colour on the orange cliff faces is really special.” margaretriver.com

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WOOL GATHERERS

Art & wellbeing

Winter provides the perfect opportunity to wrap up in layers of gorgeous warm clothing, don your beanie and gumboots and enjoy the great outdoors. And if you find yourself short, the region has you covered (literally). By JANINE PITTAWAY.

Spool & Spindle

Margaret River Hemp Co IMAGE PARIS HAWKEN

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pool & Spindle is a gorgeous Margaret River shop brimming with beautiful yarns and fabrics and woolly accessories. Owner Helen Barling said the most popular items for winter were beanies and socks. “I love that the humble beanie is so widely worn in Margaret River, in so many amazing colours and designs. I have customers who will knit their entire family a new beanie each year, it’s become a tradition,” she said. “Likewise with socks. Some of my customers are addicted to knitting socks. In our fast-moving society, the knowledge that someone has sat down and knitted you a pair of beautiful woolen socks, that could easily be purchased for less than $10, is humbling.” Her personal favourite is a knitted cowl. “They’re my number one favourite accessory, and a quick easy knit. I am also slightly obsessed with crocheting blankets. I have made one for each of my three girls, and a few scatter the lounge room at home. There’s nothing as cozy as snuggling up under one of these on a rainy winter’s night!” Helen believes knitting is the new yoga. “I’m constantly inspired by the beautiful new designs that are being released by some incredible young and funky designers – both women and men.Yarn crafts (knitting, crochet, weaving and embroidery) have seen a real resurgence in recent years, to the point where it is often commented that knitting is the new yoga. It truly is. “I can’t recommend it enough from both the satisfaction of having created something yourself to the medical benefits that it also brings.

IMAGE BIANCCA TURRI

“You can never to be too old or too young to learn. I have taught octogenarians to crochet along with children as young as six. The satisfaction is the same for everyone in learning a new skill, and that they are able to create something from scratch. It is a real joy to be a part of it.” If you’re staying closer to Busselton, your goto winter woolly shop has to be Cotton Rose in Vasse (pictured above). Owner Tanya Wilding started the business to create a fun and inspirational space for people to come and learn how to sew, knit and crochet, also a space for people to teach and share their talent. “There are so many talented creative people in our region! I also wanted to provide good quality fabrics and yarn. Cotton Rose has evolved and now runs regular classes as well as hosting guest teachers from all around Australia and the world,” she said. Tanya’s favourite winter accessories are her crochet or knitted shawls and scarves. “If my neck is warm I am warm, they make my winter clothes look colourful and happy. “The most popular activity for my customers in the winter months would be making quilts, or starting a new knitting or crochet project like a jumper, scarf or socks,” Tanya said. “People feel more like staying indoors and making things by the fire or in front of the TV watching footy.” Talented artisan Maureen Munro (pictured right) from Margaret River Quilting recommends quilting as a wonderful winter pastime. “There’s nothing better than sitting in a cozy room and simply indulging in creating something beautiful,” she said. She said a quilting project could take a few hours, or a lifetime. “I have several simple projects that enable

IMAGE BIANCCA TURRI

a total beginner to create a large lap quilt or bed topper, or a big cushion in a four-hour workshop. “I can then help with adding quilting and finishing. What I can’t be responsible for the addiction that might follow!” Maureen said. If you prefer instant gratification, Margaret River Hemp Co is a great place to start. The 23-year-old business sells beautiful hemp and bamboo jumpers, men’s hoodies, jackets and soft cardigans in the cooler months. Owner Georgina Wilkinson said her clothing was popular with locals and visitors as they are made from natural products. “They keep you warm in the winter and cool in the summer and are anti-bacteria,” she said. According to Georgina, this winter’s trend was for clothing in black, burgundy red, soft

greens and blues. “We love colour!” she said. If you’d love to make your own winter creation, take advantage of the great local courses and classes available. Here’s some inspiration: Spool & Spindle – run workshops year-round. They have two one-day workshops coming up – Crochet Your Own Beanie (July 14) and Knit Your Own Socks (check Facebook page for date). Talk to Helen about party events for kids and adults. Cotton Rose – has visiting guest teachers each month until December, and a special guest in July – Anna Maria Horner. Check the Facebook page for details. Margaret River Quilting – Margaret offers oneon-one tutoring, or small group workshops. Keep an eye the Facebook page for regular big cushion workshops. The next one is on June 10.

Cotton Rose - Unit 1, 24 Burler Drive Vasse Margaret River Hemp Co 133 Bussell Highway, Margaret River Spool & Spindle - Shop 3, 1 Charles West Avenue Margaret River Margaret River Quilting – call 0415 398 144 or contact via Facebook

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Art & wellbeing

Star quality CASSANDRA CHARLICK DELVES FURTHER INTO THE BURGEONING FILM INDUSTRY IN THE SOUTH WEST AS ONE OF THE MOST IMPORTANT EVENTS ON THE AUSTRALIAN FILM CALENDAR TAKES PLACE THIS AUGUST IN THE MARGARET RIVER REGION.

ow in its fifth year, CinefestOz is a festival like no other. Providing the richest film prize in the country, a $100k cash boost is given to the winning film. Four films are judged by some of the most influential film industry experts; previous years have seen luminaries such as Gillian Armstrong, Bruce Beresford and Hugo Weaving on the jury. Filmmakers, actors, directors, and financiers can be found mingling for both business and pleasure at this celebration of Australian cinema. Audiences are privy to a host of events, enough to make even the biggest of film buffs get their highlighters out when the program is released. Choose from film premiers, Q and As, side bars, short film selections, film-focused lunches, industry events, workshops, free community events and more. Oh, and all of these events are scattered around venues in one of Australia’s premier food and wine regions - it sounds like a match made in heaven . . . cinema, chardonnay and creative cuisine. Focusing on Australian content, 2018 sees 85 Australian productions featured with around 200 ticketed screenings over the five days at over

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35 venues. Activities and events span the region from Margaret River, Augusta, Dunsborough and Cowaramup and through to Bunbury in wineries, small bars and unique venues, while the hub is in Busselton - a town soon to be put on

the map by the latest film production currently underway. From the same production company behind the recently released Breath, producer Jamie Hilton is excited about bringing his next project to fruition. Go-Karts is a family-friendly film set and filmed in the town of Bussetlon. Why Busselton of all places? The answer is a very easy one for Hilton. “The attractions to the region as a producer are the same as a local or a tourist really. Amazing locations, a stunning coastline, and really lovely welcoming people. This is the second film that our company See Pictures has made in regional WA; it’s a remarkable place to call home while

we’re working for a few months. We set the movie in Busselton rather than a fictional town because of the beautiful locations and also because of the financial support from the region and the city. Whereas Breath was shot mostly in Denmark, it was actually set in the fictional town of Sawyer, the town in Tim Winton’s novel. On this film, we have been a been able to feature actual locations and businesses.” It’s not only the locations that are the stars of the show, but the range of community input that helps support the film industry down in the region. The south west has a whole host of hidden talents with international crew and creatives who have chosen to call the region home. “Because the film business is very specialised, and there isn’t an established industry here, we didn’t expect to find and hire as many locals as we have. We were particularly impressed with the local caterers Suppertime who kept

to spot us a mile off and always stop for a chat. Along with the proximity to all the amazing wineries and being able to pop down to places like Meelup and Eagle Bay on a Sunday, well, we’ve been impossibly spoilt! The people who choose to live here are very clever. A quick thank you to the City of Busselton for allowing us such great access and taking such great care of us.” Hilton can’t wait to be back in town for CinefestOz this year. The importance of the financial prize to a film’s development is obvious, but it is much more than the prize that is of importance to the filmmaker. “$100,000 is a major drawcard to any film/filmmaker but what I love most about CinefestOz is the community feel. Because only four films play in competition, and a lot of the government and marketplace

investors come each year, you get to spend some quality time and develop relationships outside the scope of the normal 30 minute office meeting. That lovely Wilyabrup cabernet and chardonnay helps too!" he says. "CinefestOz has become a major event on the national film calendar, it’s very impressive what they’ve been able to achieve in a relatively short timeframe.” CinefestOz runs from August 22 to 26. Early bird tickets are available from the July 6 with the full program release on the July 27. Ticket options include Film Prize Cinepasses covering all film prize events,Weekend Cinepasses and corporate entertainment options. Full details online at cinefestoz.com. Sign up for the newsletter to stay up to date with announcements and the latest news. FB and Insta - @cinefestoz

FILM FRIENDS CinefestOz attracts film fans as well as media professionals keen to see the latest movies from around the world.

our whole cast and crew very happy. Our safety officer, first assistant director, stills photographer, nurse and many actors and extras are all also based locally; there are a lot of creative people in the region.” says Jamie. Additionally, the visiting production team were never at a loss for some home-grown hospitality. “As film crew, we must look a little different because the locals seem margaretriver.com

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Art & wellbeing

Havecaneasel, travel If you’d love to paint while you’re on holiday, look no further. There are several local opportunities for those keen to flex their artistic muscles. By CASSANDRA CHARLICK.

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ften the quiet achiever to the popularity of wineries and gastronomy, the Margaret River region’s artistic community has a host of immersive experiences for art lovers to explore on your next art getaway. Not an art lover? Well, try some of the following creative adventures as road tested by me and you could leave for home with a different perspective. New tour provider Provenance Tours is a welcome addition to the region and is driven by company founder and artist Stephany Durack’s passion to engage new audiences in contemporary

art. Guests on each experience are encouraged to discover a love and appreciation for the visual art in the region, while tickling tastebuds with some of the best food and wine from family-owned producers. “We aim to create soul-nourishing tours that leave people with light in their eyes. This means finding ways for our guests to tune in to their own senses and find ways to talk about what they have seen and enjoyed - whether it’s fine art or fine food and drinks.” Starting with a morning stroll in Dunsborough or Busselton; the urban walking tours include morning tea and numerous pitstops for local produce among hidden gems of the art world. Not sure which town to pick for your morning art fix? Well, Busselton is filled with a treasure trove of public art waiting to be unveiled along the foreshore and throughout the CBD. From artist studios at the Old Courthouse through to gelato and Italian pastry tasting; discover world class murals by locals artists such as Jack Brommell, Tom Ansell and more. Dunsborough is awash with awardwinning artisans excited to share their passion and creativity with tour guests. Chat with chefs, sample produce and visit photographers, artists, boutique stores and jewellers in a very different

Where great food and art come together...

Dorothy Davies

Upcoming exhibition 30 June - 16 July Robyn Rankin

Studio Gallery In the stockroom.....

ART VACAY Left, Stephany Durack's Provenance Tours combine art, food and wine, while Fi Wilkie's classes (above) allow guests to explore their creativity in a relaxed way.

morning of indulgence. Each tour is completely unique - why not take a couple of mornings and try both? Plenty of time left in the afternoon for more foodie delights, or to gallery-hop and be further inspired by the creative juices of the artists in the region. Those who would prefer to travel a little further, jump on board one of Provenance Tours road trips which take a similar approach for up

GALLERY

to six art adventurers. Options range from three to six-hour journeys that are sure to uncover some of the most unexpected art discoveries in the south west. The day will be spent conversing with local artists, studios, galleries, gallery owners, curators and the art works themselves; Stephany adds, â&#x20AC;&#x153;Our style is more about engaging in a discussion with our guests and asking questions like who, what, where, why and

P 08 9756 6371 W thestudiogallery.com.au BISTRO Open daily 10am to 5:00pm P 08 9756 6164 (Closed Tuesday) W thestudiobistro.com.au Lunch: Thurs to Monday Dinner: Saturday

7 Marrinup Drive, Yallingup (300m from Caves Rd)

Art & wellbeing

CREATIVE EXPLORATIONS Join one of Stephany Durack's Provenance Tours and discover local artisan producers of food, art and wine in Busselton and beyond.

how. It’s much more interesting than providing a long monologue”. Of course, these creative engagements are bound to work up an appetite and there are plenty of tasting experiences by family-run companies in the region alongside the artworks. Like many creative minds, Stephany is abuzz with vivacious energy to share her passion with others and also runs Bubbles and Brushes. It's a chance for art lovers (and wine lovers) to get paint under their fingernails whild having a glass of vino at a range of different local bars, restaurants and urban eateries in the south west. “Paint. Sip. Sparkle. Unwind with friends with a drink in one hand and a brush in the other,” she enthuses. Friends, wine and fun? Ticks all the boxes for a good night out in my books. Plus, who knows – you might end up taking home a masterpiece and learning that the

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next up-and-coming Picasso has been hidden deep within all this time. Keen to get busy with your hands, but brushes and paint not for you? Just down the road in his Geographe studio, Myles Happs runs pottery experiences for those who want to get muddy. Suitable for adults and children of all ages, learn the basics of how to knead, roll, join and handbuild and even take the potters wheel for a spin! The Happs family have been running Happs Pottery in the region since the 1970s, so you are

in expert hands to learn about all things ceramic While at the studio, it is hard not to be inspired by Myles' bright, colourful and bold artisan pieces. Using both wheel-throwing and hand-building techniques, it’s the perfect chance to pick up a piece to remember how wonderful clay creativity can be. Especially handy when back home and working on those new-found techniques that looked so easy back in the workshop. A little further south, Margaret River is home to one of the region’s best loved artists, Fi Wilkie.

designs in nature

The power of imagination Landscape Yet Not Landscape is a collaborative exhibition of fine furniture & art that falls into the realm of imaginative landscape, drawing inspiration from the south west of WA. Ralph Stanton and Geoffrey Wake are long-time studio partners whose paintings share a common thread – an atmospheric representation of what they see, without particular form or location. Jahroc’s threedimensional furniture designs meanwhile hint on specific locational influences in their manipulated shape and form. “Each painting is a journey into a terrain with a destination only realised towards the end of the work,” says Geoffrey, whose paintings are mostly assemblages or collages marking close-ups, distances and rhythms of the earth and skies. His works connect with the ocean, fish and the forests delivered with his love of pattern and texture. Ralph’s non-representational abstracts are

contemplative and often strong in mood. “I seek to evoke a feeling, space and atmosphere with no particular story or message, more a landscape of the mind” he says. Using the colours of the sky, sea, sand, and forest, he evokes a natural beauty. Gary Bennett and David Paris of Jahroc Furniture reflect the essence of the south west landscape in their latest furniture designs. Inspired by the raw energy and varying landforms of this vast and relatively untouched expanse, these functional pieces of art all individually hold a strong sense of place. Combining local hardwoods, contemporary design and master craftsmanship, Gary and David deliver these bespoke designs that add to their 30-year repertoire of award-winning furniture. Landscape Yet Not Landscape Exhibition, Jahroc Galleries, Margaret River, from June 30 to July 22. Visit jahroc.com.au

“Creativity is alive and kicking in Margaret River” she states, “I just love coming up with ideas. I have always gravitated towards drawing and colours and creating things.” Fi has expanded her art practice and private classes to an exciting new venture, Margaret River Art Adventures. Running three different art experiences; the Sketchbook Explorer is for those who are keen to start their creative journey with guidance and encouragement from Fi. Learn the processes and skills for experimenting with your sketchbook artistry, and it’s almost guaranteed you will leave ready to keep up the work back home. “I’ve discovered that if you give a beginner some basic guidelines; an idea of how to start to look at the world around them and a process to follow that helps them to do this - they have a marvellous time. It is very rewarding for the students to see this switching on happen in themselves. As a teacher, it’s probably the most rewarding experience art has given me yet.”

Wine lovers will jump at a Saturday afternoon of Cabernet and Colour. Starting at a cellar door wine-tasting, continue through to cheese platter grazing while unleashing creativity with watercolours and mixed media under Fi’s gentle guidance. After all, there is only one way to figure out if there is a link between those Italian masters being creative geniuses and residing in a country renowned for its winemaking. For those looking to explore the creative workings of professional artists rather than get their own paintbrushes out, Fi also offers studio tours of the region.Visit five different artist’s studios, along with a delicious packed picnic lunch and be ready to get the creativity flowing. “When you meet someone who is genuinely inspired by what they do, it’s almost impossible to not be inspired too,” says Fi. On that note, it’s time to get the easel out and open a bottle of Margaret River cabernet. Inspiration has definitely hit. Visit provenancetours.com.au, margaretriverartadventures.com and happspottery.com.au

jewellery designed and handmade in Margaret River Open Daily 10am - 4pm 611 Boodjidup Road 08 9757 6885 info@payetgallery.com.au margaretriver.com | WINTER 2018 93 www.payetgallery.com.au

Art & wellbeing

Let’s go to . . .

Cowaramup

WITH ITS HERITAGE BUILDINGS, LOCAL FOOD AND WINE AND SOME NEW ARRIVALS ALONG THE MAIN DRAG, COWARAMUP IS WORTH STOPPING BY FOR MUCH MORE THAN JUST THE 42 COWS THAT LINE THE STREETS – ALTHOUGH THEY ARE A HIT WITH THE KIDS. HERE ARE SOME OF THE INDEPENDENT BUSINESSES THAT MAKE COW TOWN UNIQUE. BY ZOE DELEUIL. IMAGES BY BIANCCA TURRI.

Golden Jersey

GOLDEN JERSEY

1950s with an iconic ram logo, but we changed fleece to jersey as we are in Cow Town, and Jersey is a breed of cow. Also, we are passionate about bikes, and the yellow jersey is worn by the top Tour de France rider,” says Renee. The restored interior also houses the Settler’s Ridge cellar door, an art wall and an artist-inresidence. Out the back, local businesses are at work in the original owner’s cottage, also painstakingly restored – and you can still buy petrol.

60 Bussell Hwy, Cowaramup goldenjersey.com.au 08 9755 5408 When the town’s petrol station and tractor shop came up for sale in 2015, Perth couple Renee and Anthony decided to pack up their city lives and move down here with their three kids. Since then, they have restored the original art deco building with impressive care, right down to rewiring the original lamps and matching the original paint theme and door handles, guided by old photographs given to them by the first owner’s niece. Golden Jersey is now a hub for locals and tourists alike, where you can order coffee or gelato, stock up on milk, bread, bait and surf wax, or hire a bike. “We are right at the start of the Rails to Trails, or Wadandi trail, which goes through agricultural land and forests to Margaret River. From there you can access mountain

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SETTLERS RIDGE ORGANIC WINES bike trails, or continue on to Witchcliffe or the Tom Cullity Drive circuit for wine and cheese tastings. We have conventional and electric bikes big and small to suit all ages and abilities, and can also provide tours for those who don’t want to have to worry about directions,” says Renee. And why Golden Jersey? “The name recalls the Golden Fleece, an Australian petrol station from the

60 Bussell Hwy, Cowaramup WA 6284 settlersridge.com.au 08 9755 5883 At a cellar door conveniently located just inside the Golden Jersey, you can try and buy some of this family-run winery’s award-winning and 100% certified organic wines.

GOURMET FOOD MERCHANT 4 Bottrill Street, Cowaramup gourmetfoodmerchant.com 08 9755 5136 The south west is home to some world-class food producers, but if you’re only here for a short while, you won’t have time to track them all down. Happily, Gourmet Food Merchant owner Caitlin Lloyd has done the work for you, gathering her pick of the region’s exceptional produce in one elegant,

slate-floored room. Stop by for a coffee and take something back to your holiday house – look out for Holy Smoke bacon from Pemberton, Cambray cheeses, Margaret River woodfired bread, coffee from the Margaret River Roasting Company, Bahen & Co chocolate, and much more. Caitlin and her team will also make hampers, cheese platters, and seasonal picnic hampers to order.

Golden Jersey

DUNSBOROUGH

Ramada Resort Dunsborough

Be moved by the west, leave the rest to us.

Toll Free: 1800 200 007 reservations@ramadadunsborough.com.au www.ramadadunsborough.com.au

margaretriver.com 95 | WINTER Non-Club apartments subject2018 to availability

Mukau Giftware and Gallery

Art & wellbeing Black Sheep Deli

for the local primary school, and there’s a gallery on the first floor.

BAKEHOUSE 38 18 O’Brien Street, Cowaramup bakehouse38.com.au 08 9755 9938

BLACK SHEEP DELI 56A Bussell Hwy, Cowaramup 08 9755 9407 If you’re craving some hearty home-style food after a few too many rich winery lunches, the Black Sheep Deli is your friend. Here, everything is made from scratch by the friendly owners, including sushi rolls, smoothies, jams, chutney and a veggie-packed nasi goreng made to the owner’s grandmother’s secret recipe – and it’s a plastic free operation, with the café filling just one wheelie bin a week.You’ll also find raw

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jarrah honey sold by the kilo, local milk, fruit and vegetables.

MUKAU GIFTWARE AND GALLERY 2/69 Bussell Hwy, Cowaramup mukau.com.au 08 9755 9922 MuKau – see what they did there? – is an inviting gift shop packed with good quality toys, jewellery, clothes, books and homewares sourced locally and from around the world. Gift wrapping is provided with a gold coin donation

Fondly known by locals as the Old Bakehouse, the original building was built in 1938. Fast forward to 2015 and new owners Shannon and Clayton spent 20 long months lovingly renovating this beautiful old building. Inside the restaurant space, entered off the Bakehouse laneway, the large wood-fired Metters Bakers Oven had lain idle since the 1960s, when the property ceased to operate as a bakery. Perhaps one of the last remaining few of its kind, the oven is the heart and soul of this entire property and in its day could bake 280 loaves of bread at any given time. The original timber paddle is still in place, once used to place risen dough onto firebricks and remove delicious, warm fresh bread. With a few minor oven repairs taken care of, the aroma of woodsmoke wafts from the red brick chimney and out into the laneway. With random tasty creations such as pumpkin,

COWARAMUP MuKau - see what they did there? - is an inviting giftshop packed with good quality toys, jewellery, clothes, books and homewares TM

zucchini and yoghurt, banana, date and walnut, jalapeño and corn, and even a Bloke's Bread (beer, bacon and chilli), the old-fashioned potted breads are not to be missed. Three guestrooms have been added too, so it's possible to wake up to those delicious bready scents.

MOONHAVEN NATURAL SOAPS Cnr Bottrill St and Bussell Hwy, Cowaramup, moonhaven.com.au 08 97 555 470 It’s hard to believe that this aromatic timber cottage was once the town’s stock agent and bank. One of the more familiar sights along Bussell Highway, Moonhaven has been creating and selling its own natural beauty products and soaps here for 16 years, and has an online shop if you can’t make it in person.

MARGARET RIVER REGIONAL WINE CENTRE 9 Bussell Highway, Cowaramup mrwines.com 08 9755 5501 Fallen in love with the wine of the Margaret River region but short on time? Head to this

convenient, brilliantly stocked store full of all your Margaret River wine favourites (and discoveries just waiting to be enjoyed).You can taste and buy wines until you're ready to choose.You'll also enjoy great service and advice from the knowledgeable staff who live and breathe Margaret River wine. If you're planning a DIY winery tour, they stock lots of maps, tourist guides and information you will need. The centre is owned and managed by local wine identities who have extensive knowledge about grape growing and making wine. If you catch one of them in the shop, be sure to ask them about their labels.

CANDY & FUDGE

COFFEE GELATO BIKES WINE TASTING

CANDY COW Cnr of Bottrill St & Bussell Hwy, Cowaramup candycow.com.au 08 9755 9155 If you've got kids in tow, chances are this will be top of their must-visit list in Cowaramup. It's a lolly emporium with all types of sweet treats from old-fashioned sweets like fudge and nougat to delicious chocolate, and golden honeycrunch (with an ever-changing flavour of the day) made instore.

BODY & BATH

Mukau Giftware and Gallery

GIFTS & GALLERY

SAVOUR THE FLAVOUR OF THE SOUTHWEST margaretriver.com | WINTER 2018

GETTING AROUND

BY COACH TRANS WA Trans WA19 travels from Perth to Margaret River every Monday, Wednesday and Friday, with optional drop-offs along the way and returns to Perth the same day. Keep hold of your ticket and return to Perth at a later date. Visit wa-getaway.com.au

BY CAR MARGARET RIVER RENT A CAR To see the best of the region, hire a car or people mover from Margaret River – all you need is a driver’s licence, even if it’s an interstate or international one. Visit margaretriverrentacar.com.au

BUSSELTON & SOUTH WEST RENT A CAR Offering delivery and pick-up throughout the south west, Busselton & South West Rent a Car is a local, family-owned car rental company. Visit busseltonswrentacar.com.au

AVIS SOUTHWEST CAR HIRE Explore the beautiful Margaret River region at your own pace with a rental from Avis Southwest Car Hire in Busselton. One-way rentals are available back to Perth. Visit avis.com.au

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IN STYLE MCLEOD TOURS Take in Margaret River’s scenery and attractions with the knowledge of local expert and awardwinning guide Neil McLeod. The three-day Escape tour provides pick-up from your Perth hotel or Perth train station, comfortable bus transport, three days touring with a dedicated tour guide, delicious food and wine, and an exciting itinerary. Visit mcleodtours.com.au

WESTWARD AVIATION CHARTER SERVICES Depart from Jandakot Airport as the sun rises and enjoy stunning views of the Swan River, Fremantle Harbour, Rockingham, Mandurah, the Peel Inlet and Bunbury then on to either Busselton or Margaret River. Westward Aviation will transfer you from the airport to the city and take you back at no extra cost.Your return journey will be just as spectacular with the sun setting over the Indian Ocean and the night lights of the City of Perth. Visit margaretriver.com/members/westward-aviationcharter-services/

ESQUIRE CLASSIC CHARTERS Want to travel in style? It doesn’t get more stylish than in a Silver Spirit Rolls-Royce from Esquire Classic Charters. There’s no better way to enjoy a private charter, special event or winery tour in the Busselton, Dunsborough,Yallingup and Margaret River region. Visit esquireclassiccharters.com.au

VIRTUALLY YOUR MARGARET RIVER REGION APP The latest version of the Your Margaret River Region app features more than 1,000 things to do, as well as service points located throughout the region. Available online and offline for both Apple and Android devices, the app also features an audio tour of the Busselton Jetty.

WINERY EXPLORER APP Explore Western Australia’s incredible wine regions from the palm of your hand with The Winery Explorer App. It lists every WA cellar door and wine region in beautiful detail and offers up-to-date information. The app is available to download for free for Apple devices.

TRAVEL TIMES in and out of Margaret River will be impacted PLEASE due to the Margaret BE River Perimeter Road AWARE roadworks. Rosa Brook Road will only be linked to the Margaret River Perimeter Road from the east. Rosa Brook Road (west) will have a cul-de-sac located to the east of Darch Road. The western portion of Rosa Brook Road from Bussell Highway (near Yahava) to the west of the Perimeter Road will continue to provide access to local residents and businesses.

STAY

ABBEY BEACH RESORT LUXURY HOTEL AND APARTMENT ACCOMMODATION IN A RESORT SETTING, LOCATED ON THE BEACH IN BUSSELTON Enjoy fully serviced, self contained apartments and studios, each with a private double spa and balcony. Abbey Beach Resort is a 4.5 star leisure resort with countless facilities and amenities. The Resort has an atrium restaurant, pool side café, several bars, a 25 metre indoor heated swimming pool, 2

outdoor pools, tennis and squash courts, spa, gym and sauna for your enjoyment. Stroll to the beach, tour wineries, art galleries and many other local attractions. For a holiday or short break you are assured of comfort and style at Abbey Beach Resort

595 Bussell Highway, Busselton WA Freecall 1800 017 097 • Ph 61 8 9755 4600 • info@abbeybeach.com.au www.abbeybeach.com.au

DUNSBOROUGH INN BACKPACKERS

DUNSBOROUGH CENTRAL MOTEL

SUPERIOR BUDGET ACCOMMODATION SITUATED RIGHT IN THE HUB OF TOWN

DUNSBOROUGH CENTRAL MOTEL IS NESTLED IN A TRANQUIL GARDEN SETTING IN THE HEART OF TOWN

For those on a budget, the self-catering aspect of the complex and it’s proximity to the supermarket can be a great money saver. Dunsborough Inn Backpackers provides a variety of accommodation ranging from self-contained units to our non dormitory hostel style rooms. Our large communal kitchen/dining room and spacious recreation areas provide an environment for guests to relax and exchange experiences of the day or just to meet new people. 50 Dunn Bay Road, Dunsborough WA Ph 08 9756 7277 • bookings@dunsboroughinn.com.au www.dunsboroughinn.com.au

BIG VALLEY CAMPSITE

Dunsborough Central Motel is ideally located on the doorstep of world renowned beaches, dive sites, premium wineries, art galleries, wildflowers, caves and the incredible coastal scenery of Cape Naturaliste. Just a 600 metre stroll to the beach or a short drive to surf beaches, the Dunsborough Central Motel is adjacent to restaurants and cafes, wine bars, supermarket

50 Dunn Bay Road, Dunsborough WA Ph 08 9756 7711 • reservations@dunsboroughmotel.com.au www.dunsboroughmotel.com.au

shopping centre, beauticians, banks and a very well informed Visitor Centre. Simply relax in style by our outdoor pool and BBQ area, indulge in the Bali Style Gazebo Spa, or just kick back with a good book and a glass of wine in the privacy of your well appointed room. Winter Special: Two nights in the superior motel room for $180 including a bottle of wine on arrival. Valid from May to the end of September 2018 excluding long weekends. To qualify simply phone us direct and mention this special.

South West caves family adventure

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NESTLED AMONGST THE HILLS OF OUR FAMILY OWNED WORKING SHEEP FARM, JUST TEN MINUTES SOUTH EAST OF MARGARET RIVER. The farm encompasses a beautiful secret valley from the outside world by natural forest. Bring your Caravan, Motorhome or Tent to relax and enjoy the open space, amazing nights skies, friendly farm animals and the family friendly atmosphere. Pet Friendly. Ph 08 9757 5020 bigvalleymargaretriver.com.au

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» Exceptional in-park facilities » Self contained cabins » Large powered and unpowered sites

Call 1800 871 570 or visit racparksandresorts.com.au

Discover an ancient wonderland at Ngilgi, Mammoth, Lake and Jewel Cave.

To book drop into your nearest visitor centre or call: (08) 9757 7411

STAY

SUNFLOWERS ANIMAL FARM & FARMSTAY

Spacious & Comfortable Cabins + Caravan Sites

We offer farmstay accommodation in 4 fully self contained units, sleeping between 5 and 9 people, near Margaret River in the South West of Western Australia. Sunflowers Farmstay is ideal for big groups of friends or families (max 28 people). Wander through the Animal Farm, with over 350 very friendly (mainly) farm animals, at any time during your stay. Sip local wines while admiring our stunning views: wild kangaroos grazing on rolling hills covered in beautiful wildflowers. 5561 Caves Road, near Margaret River Ph: (08) 9757 3343 â&#x20AC;˘ farmerjones@sunflowersfarm.com www.sunflowersfarm.com

ASK a ! l A C O L Drop in to one of our four accredited visitor centres in Busselton, Dunsborough, Margaret River and Augusta for friendly, expert advice.

www.riverviewtouristpark.com

9757 2270 | 1300 666 105

JACARANDA GUEST HOUSE

WISTERIA COTTAGE

PARK YOUR CAR AND WALK EVERYWHERE

REST, RELAX, EXPLORE.

Busselton famous Jetty, beach, shops, cafe and restaurants all just a short walk away. Jacaranda Guest House is centrally located, has 7 guest rooms all with own ensuite, r/c airconditioning and free wifi. It is nestled amongst english style gardens, where You can just relax or enjoy a bbq. Continental breakfast is included in the price.

Whether you are here for rest and relaxation or to explore our amazing atttractions we hope you enjoy the peace and tranquility that is Wisteria Cottage. A one bedroom self contained cottage.

30 West Street, Busselton, WA Ph 08 9751 5973 â&#x20AC;˘ jacarandaguesthouse1@westnet.com.au www.jacarandaguesthouse.com

31 Dekkers, Rd Deepdene WA 6290 M 0407 084 086 P 08 9758 4618 wisteriacottageaugusta@gmail.com

Wisteria Cottage

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FOOD & DRINK

KARRIDALE TAVERN

FRIENDLY COUNTRY TAVERN AND RESTAURANT Serving meals all day 11am - 9pm Local beer and wine.

Lunch • Dinner • Bar • Snacks.

CAFE BORANUP

COUNTRY ATMOSPHERE IN THE FOREST 10am-4pm Weekdays. 8am-4pm Weekends. Great coffee. Home baked scones and cakes. Augusta Abalone and Whiting. Variety of vegetarian and GF options. Breakfast and Lunch Menu. Next to Boranup Gallery. 7981 Caves Road Forest Grove WA 6286 Ph 08 9757 7279 www.cafeboranup.com

Bussell Hwy, Karridale, WA Ph 08 9758 5523

08 9588 8877 107 BUSSEL HWY (MAIN STREET)

w: www.elkamo.com.au • e: info@elkamo.com.au COCKTAILS + TAPAS + FOUR HOTEL SUITES

EAGLE BAY OLIVES A GOURMET EXPERIENCE WITH A FOCUS ON OLIVE OIL AND OLIVES Premium extra virgin olive oil. A wide selection of table olives, naturally processed. Tapenades, pesto, dukkah, dressings and jams, all preservative free. Unique giftware including olive wood boards and kitchen utensils. Picnic boxes to enjoy in our shady gardens. Sunday until sold out. Open 10.30-5.00 10.30 - 5.00every everyFriday, Friday,Saturday Saturday,&Sunday and Monday until soldpage out. for the latest news. Check our Facebook Check our Facebook page for the latest news.

521 Cape Naturaliste Road, Eagle Bay WA Ph (08) 9755 3188 eaglebayolives.com.au

ASK a LOCAl! GABRIEL CHOCOLATE

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Drop in to one of our four VISIT WA’S FIRST “BEAN TO accredited visitor centres in BAR” CHOCOLATE MAKER Busselton, Dunsborough, Discover the vast array of naturally occurring chocolate flavours – everything from cherry, citrus through to rum raisin – in the singleMargaret River and Augusta origin, multiple award winning chocolate bars. for expert We turnfriendly, the world’s best raw cocoa beansadvice. into heavenly chocolate. Daily behind the scenes tours, sample fresh chocolate, enjoy decadent hot chocolate, coffee and our handmade ice-cream, chocolate cookies and cakes. Open 10am to 5pm daily. Daily tours. Cnr Caves & Quininup Rds, Yallingup Ph 08 9756 6689 www.gabrielchocolate.com.au

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   AUTHENTIC ITALIAN GELATO AND SORBETTI Authentic Italian gelato and sorbetti made in-store by owner Andy using natural ingredients. Dairyand gluten-free flavours available. FOR OPENING HOURS PLEASE CHECK FACEBOOK AND GOOGLE 32 Queen Street, Busselton WA Ph 08 9751 1477 / gelatobuonissimo / gelatobuonissimobusselton

 

FOOD & DRINK ARTS & ACTIVITIES

BLUE OCEAN FISH & CHIPS

BLUE OCEAN FISH & CHIPS Come eat where the two oceans meet in the spectacular location of Augusta. Experience the taste of our mouth-watering local fish, grilled or fried with yummy gluten-free chips. Blue Ocean have a variety of seafood products and combo packs to suit all. We also offer a great selection of kids’ packs, burgers, drinks and ice creams. Blue Ocean is located in the centre of town, next door to the Visitor Centre. Open 7 days a week Lunch 11.30am ~ 2.00pm Dinner 5.00pm ~ 8.00pm 73 Blackwood Avenue, Augusta Ph 08 9758 1748 eftpos facilities available

MARGARET RIVER GOLF CLUB Bookings are essential

MARGARET RIVER ART ADVENTURES

PLAY AROUND IN MARGARET RIVER Keen to combine some golf with a trip to WA’s wine country? Margaret River Golf Club is the highlight of any golf tour to the south west. There aren’t many golf courses in the region that rival Margaret River for scenic beauty and sheer golfing challenge. The 6,092 metre, par 72 course is highly regarded by golfers from all over WA and beyond. Clubs, buggies and carts are available for hire at the on-course golf shop that also stocks a wide range of equipment.

margaretriverartadventures.com

Ph: (08) 9757 3161 • E golfshop@westnet.com.au 599 Wallcliffe Road, Margaret River margaretrivergolfclub.com.au

John Streater Fine Furniture Est 1987

JohnOpen: Streater Fine 10am toFurniture 4pm Open: 10am to 4pm. Ph 08 9755Closed 1211 Fridays. PhRoad, 08 9755 1211 Siding 105 Blythe Yallingup 105 Blythe Road, Yallingup Siding streatergallery@bigpond.com www.streaterfinefurniture.com www.streaterfinefurniture.com

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STREATER GALLERY IS A MUST SEE

John Master JohnStreater StreaterDesigner has beenand a pioneer Craftsman contempory bespoke in the WestofAustralian art industry hardwood furniture. for over thirty years. His bespoke Also show casing Art, Jewellery, furniture is showcased alongside other woodturning and more. internationally recognised artists at his A visit to ouringallery willSiding. leave you gallery Yallingup truly inspired.

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anup Gallery, in the heart of Boranup Forest, exhibits an ARTS & ACTIVITIES WINE & BEER

anding collection of finewood furniture, designed & handcraftedBoranup Gallery, in the heart of Boranup Forest, exhibits an e by James Howieson and his team from rare West Australian outstanding collection of finewood furniture, designed & handcrafted onsite by James Howieson and his team from rare West Australian BORANUP GALLERY MARGARET RIVER TOURS woods. hardwoods.

Boranup Gallery, in the heart of Boranup Forest, exhibits an outstanding collection of finewood furniture, designed & handcrafted onsite by James Howieson and his team from rare West Australian We proudly support local Artisans with a diverse range of paintings, glass, MARGARET RIVERâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S ORIGINAL support local Artisans with a diverse hardwoods. range of paintings, glass, sculpture, ceramics, jewellery and woodcrafts. & BEST WINERY TOURS... amics, jewellery and woodcrafts.

BORANUP GALLERY

Boranup Gallery, in the heart of Boranup Forest, exhibits an outstanding of finewood furniture,7981 Caves Opencollection Seven Days 10.00am-4.00pm Rd. Margaret River. Half Day and Full Day Gourmet Wine & Dine.

Tel:Australian (08)9757 7585 www.boranupgallery.com designed and handcrafted onsite James Howieson hardwoods. Seven Days 10.00am-4.00pm 7981 Caves Rd.byMargaret River.and his team from rare West Visiting 6 wineries daily, including Voyager, Watershed, proudlyasupport local Artisans with a diverse range of paintings, glass, sculpture, Leeuwin, McHenry Hohnen, Vasse Felix, Stella Bella Tel: (08)9757 7585 We www.bor nupgallery.com Kent River. We proudly localwoodcrafts. Artisans with a diverse range of paintings,& Old glass, ceramics, support jewellery and Full Day tours feature lunch at Watershed. sculpture, ceramics, jewellery and woodcrafts. Enjoy delicious homestyle cuisine made with local and exotic All tours enjoy complementary vineyard platter as well as OPEN seven daysingredients. 10am ~ 4pm Fresh Yallingup coffee. Friendly staff in a beautiful,

We proudly support local Artisans with a diverse natural range of paintings, glass, Open Seven Days 10.00am-4.00pm 7981 Caves Rd. Margaret River. enviroment. omestyle cuisine made with local and exotic sculpture, ceramics, jewellery and(08)9757 woodcrafts. 7981 Caves Road, Margaret River Tel: 7585 www.bor a nupgallery.com Open 9.00am3pm Daily. Tel: 9757 7279 Yallingup coffee. Friendly staff in a beautiful, PhOpen 08 9757 7585 â&#x20AC;˘ www.boranupgallery.com 7981 Caves Road, Margaret natural enviroment. Seven Days 10.00am-4.00pm 7981 Caves Rd. Margaret River. River.

0am- 3pm Daily. Tel: 9757 7279 Caves Road, Margaret River.

Tel: (08)9757 7585 www.boranupgallery.com

Enjoy delicious homestyle cuisine made with local and exotic ingredients. Fresh Yallingup coffee. Friendly staff in a beautiful, Enjoy delicious homestyle cuisine madeenviroment. with local and exotic natural

tastings of small goods, cheese & chocolate. Ph 0419 917 166 info@margaretrivertours.com www.margaretrivertours.com

ARTGEO CULTURAL COMPLEX

ingredients. Fresh Yallingup coffee. Friendly staff in a beautiful, Opennatural 9.00am3pm Daily. Tel: 9757 7279 enviroment.

79813pm Caves Road, Margaret Open 9.00amDaily. Tel: 9757 7279 7981 Caves Road, Margaret River.

River.

ARTGEO CULTURAL COMPLEX - where art & heritage meet ArtGeo is a creative hub for the visual and performing arts housed in heritage-listed buildings close to Busselton foreshore. The complex includes the old Busselton Courthouse, which now operates as an interpretive centre and retail outlet for regional arts andcrafts, and ArtGeo Gallery where we host exhibitions sourced Australia-wide. open daily 10am ~ 4pm

Queen Street Cultural Precinct Ph 08 9751 4651 | www.artgeo.com.au

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WINE & BEER TOURS

Book your spot in the winter issue

Contact Natalie to book your space in our next issue of Your Margaret River Region Magazine.

Call 0426 752 352

E: natalie@premiumpublishers.com.au

PREMIUM PUBLISHERS

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Buy your copy of Artists of the Margaret River Region at any visitor centre.

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TOURS

MARGARET RIVER BUBBLES TOUR

. affordable . quality .

THE MOST FUN YOU CAN HAVE IN ONE DAY! margaret river

bubbles tour

Gourmet food, great wines and A tour to suit everyone! iconic locations. Gourmet food, great wines and iconic locations. Private tours forfor 4-114-11 people. Private tours people. Ph Markonon 0437 618 559 Tel Mark 0437 618559 margsbubblestour@hotmail.com margsbubblestour@hotmail.com www.margaretriverbubblestour.com www.margaretriverbubblestour.com

Margaret River Food & Wine Tours phone: 0417 948 933 email: vintagetours@bigpond.com www.winetoursmargaretriver.com.au

MARGARET RIVER TOURS

$70 GREAT RATES & SERVICE at Bunbury, Busselton & Collie Oneway Rentals (to Perth) available Call 1800 679 880

HALF + FULL DAY Wine & Scenic Tours

Sample plate at Venison Farm Sample French Nougat at Bettenays Cellar Door Cheese & Crackers at Knotting Hill Samples at the Cheese & Chocolate Factories Sample Liqueurs & Cocktails at The Grove Free bottled water on board Gourmet Lunch at an Iconic Restaurant (full-day tour only) See our NEW CHEERS MARGARET RIVER VIDEO online!

MARGARET RIVER’S ORIGINAL Half Day and Full Day Gourmet Wine & Dine. Visiting 6 wineries daily, including Voyager, Watershed, Leeuwin, McHenry Hohnen, Vasse Felix, Pierro, Stella Bella & Cape Mentelle. Full Day tours feature lunch at Watershed. All tours enjoy complementary vineyard platter as well as tastings of small goods, cheese & chocolate.

.com

To make a booking visit avis.com.au

9757 2270 or 0474 721 836

2015-A00073

Ph 0419 917 166 info@margaretrivertours.com www.margaretrivertours.com

JESTERS FLAT

MARGIES BIG DAY OUT BEER & WINE TOUR

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EXPERIENCE THE BEST… OF WHAT THIS WORLD FAMOUS REGION HAS TO OFFER! Visit 7 venues including 3 wineries, 2 breweries and the Cheese & Chocolate Companies. Enjoy a lunch of delicious local produce at a Margaret River Brewery. Make friends, have a laugh and relax whilst your friendly Tour Guide takes you on an amazing day out in the Margaret River Region. Pick up and drop off to your accommodation included. CALL US TODAY!

Ph 0416 180 493 margaretrivertourswa.com.au

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Professionally guided HORSE RIDING TOURS, suitable for all abilities. From forest treks to beach rides, we have a horse riding adventure just for you. 1549 Rosa Brook Rd, Margaret River Ph 08 97574 562 bookings@jestersflat.com www.jestersflat.com

Margaret River WA

/JestersFlat

THE FIRST EVER BMW X2. The first ever BMW X2 is unmistakable, unrestrained and unprecedented. A Sports Activity CoupĂŠ with the latest tech and the boldest style. Book a test drive at Auto Classic today. AUTO CLASSIC 48 Burswood Road, Victoria Park WA. Tel 9311 7533. autoclassic.com.au

LMCT2271

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