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The Bespoke Tailor who’s The Bespoke Tailor who’s A CUT ABOVE

Bespoke tailor Andrew Musson spent 25 years on Savile Row cutting suits for politicians, businessmen and celebrities. For the last decade though, he returned to the area to provide the same exceptional service to gentleman closer to home...

Words: Rob Davis.

“The difference between style and fashion is quality,” said Giorgio Armani, and we’re in broad agreement... but no matter what label you sew into the back of a ‘designer’ suit, if its fit is rubbish, it’ll always look terrible.

Tailored suits flatter any man, regardless of age or build, but if you think that achieving a perfectly cut suit means an eye-wateringly pricy trip to Savile Row, we’ve some great news. The area is blessed with the presence of Andrew Musson, who spent 25 years on London’s legendary street before returning to Lincoln to service the gentlemen of Lincolnshire, Rutland and Stamford with a completely one-off suit, measured and cut to fit, for a price not too far away from a very ordinary ‘off-the-peg’ suit with a fancy name sewn into the back.

You can spot a tailored suit a mile off. Even the untrained eye can spot the better fit and the fact that around 50 man-hours are invested in each bespoke suit. Andrew believes he has created over 12,000 suits

throughout his career, and no two have ever been identical, thanks to a choice of over 1,000 mostly English fabrics, as well as the dimensions and options being completely different, tailored to each recipient.

“We offer tailored, but also made-to-measure suits,” says Andrew, taking a break for a few minutes from cutting a pattern onto some beautiful grey wool cloth. “Made-to-measure suits cost the same as higher-end off-the-peg suits and are still based on your own body measurements, but they’re laser-cut off site.”

“A bespoke suit sees the client measured but the suit cut in-house. Clients also attend a first or ‘baste’ fitting, a ‘forward’ fitting with linings, pockets, butons and so on in place. A final fitting allows for minute adjustments to be made before the client collects their suit - a process that takes 10 to 12 weeks.”

“All of our suits afford a customer the ability to choose the number and style of buttons, presence and shape of pockets, colours and

Top Left: A blue or grey suit will prove versatile enough for most occasions. Bespoke accessories or a contrasting waistcoat can add individuality.

Top Right: Most suits today are single-breasted but this client preferred a double-breasted jacket. Below Left: Lighter coloured and weighted suits are more comfortable for summer months. A subtle check accommodates coloured shirt and ties.

Below Right: Andrew created this sports jacket with a tweed fleck.

style of lining, the option of a matching or contrasting waistcoat, stitching and so on. And of course, you can choose the cloth and decide on the weight of the suit too.”

“Alas the traditional tailor is a rarer sight on our High Streets than they used to be. That’s why we have clients visiting us from a radius of a few hundred miles. Some clients still make the journey from London to visit a tailor they trust. Some clients purchase a suit for a milestone birthday, a wedding anniversary or for a graduation ceremony.” “It’s a relatively new or unfamiliar experience Your Three Essential Suits for most men, but once they’ve experienced the Andrew recommends a grey or fit and the quality of a bespoke suit, it’s difficult to go back to wearing off-the-peg suits.” navy ‘workhorse’ suit for any occasion, plus a sports jacket perhaps in tweed or fleck, and a lightweight suit for the summer months. ties, wedding-hire suits... even bespoke shirts with matching Covid face masks!” “2018 saw us reach my 10 year “Life on Savile Row was great fun, anniversary in Lincoln, but the shop but being back in a provincial shop enables has been here, originally run by my father, me to bring a quality product and experience since the late 1970s. We now have the sons to a much wider audience. And with lower of previous customers coming to see us, overheads, we can also provide tailoring at which is great for a business whose aim is to a price that’s more accessible for a suit that’s provide quality tailoring for men of any age, still of Savile Row-quality. As a business we any build and any background. After all, also stock quality British shoes from Trickers, great tailoring is a right, not a privilege!” n

Find Out More: Andrew Musson is the bespoke tailor serving Lincolnshire, Rutland & Stamford. For a personal, no-obligation discussion, call 01522 520142. See www.andrewjmusson.com. It is based at High Street, Lincoln LN5 8AS.

Specify a Bespoke JACKET LINING

Is there any way to make a bespoke suit even more special? Well, Elliott Rampley is the founder of Rampley & Co, which specialises in creating of hand-painted silk linings for suit jackets. The firm can create a bespoke suit lining, or you can reproduce artwork from artists like Canaletto, Giordano, Turner and Rubens.

The firm also creates pocket squares and sells accessories like ties, socks, umbrellas and overcoats.

“Rampley & Co was born out of a passion to create elegant clothing and accessories through innovative design, the best available fabrics and quality craftsmanship,” says Elliott. “We also collaborate with partners such as the National Gallery, the British Museum and the V&A because we want to create accessories that were both interesting and unique.” “All our products are manufactured in Britain, produced in factories with rich histories that span hundreds of years of textile production. It is this blend of true craftsmanship developed through the ages with interesting and historical designs that make our products truly remarkable.”

For more information see www.rampleyandco.com.

Above: Silk suit jacket lining based on The Death of Major Peirson (1783) - by John Singleton Copley.