6 minute read
DINING OUT Dining out at the consistently excellent Hambleton Hall.
Dining Out in Rutland at HAMBLETON HALL
Dining out in Rutland doesn’t get any better than enjoying dinner at Hambleton Hall, not simply because of the lovely setting or quality of dining, but thanks to the warmth of welcome the team provides, and a desire to really look after their guests...
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Words: Rob Davis. Images: Dorte Kjærulff Photography, 07984 492 246, www.dorte.co.uk.
1979 was a good year. In July, 42 years ago, Tim & Stefa Hart took on a former hunting lodge in Hambleton and set about transforming it into a hotel and restaurant. Meanwhile, just a couple of months later, Mr & Mrs Davis senior (now very senior) brought into the world a beautiful baby boy who would grow up to be a handsome and talented magazine editor. And 42 is a great age. I’m no longer compelled to pretend I’m cool, I don’t have to hold my belly in when a pretty girl walks past, I can dress for comfort, I can turn the volume of music down, leave a bar at 9pm and of course the agony of dating is well behind me thanks to my own very happy marriage. Hambleton Hall opened in 1980 and one might suggest that the stars have consistently aligned for the fortunes of the place ever since. Its interiors were designed by Stefa and colleague Nina Campbell; head chef Nick Gill – brother of writer A A Gill – took young protégé Aaron Patterson under his wing. Soon, Hambleton Hall’s team would grow to include restaurant director Graeme Matheson, sommelier Dominique Baduel and general manager Chris Hurst... oh, and speaking of stars, Hambleton was awarded its own in 1982, which it has retained since. But to attribute Hambleton Hall’s success to astrological phenomena would be quite disingenuous. The hotel and restaurant has earned – and maintained – its reputation not through mere luck or planets ascending, but through hard work, and a genuine desire to give guests the very best experience. In the kitchen is a brigade of 16 chefs. In any other kitchen that would be overkill, but with the complexity of Hambleton Hall’s dishes, and with guests of its 17 rooms and suites to care for, it’s about right for the place, and enables the creation of everything in-house right down to ice creams, sorbets and petit fours. Only the bread is produced off site at sister company Hambleton Bakery, founded by Tim alongside former Hambleton Hall pastry chef Julian Carter in 2008. The bakery is a success story all of its own. It has just moved into new purpose-built facilities adjacent to the A1 to bake the quantity of bread required for the restaurants it supplies, and to stock its six shops. >>
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MEET THE CHEF
AARON PATTERSON
DIRECTOR & HEAD CHEF
Aaron leads a brigade of 16 chefs to create meticulous dishes which reflect Hambleton Hall’s four AA rosettes, and its Michelin Star. He has served as the hotel’s Head Chef since 1992. n
on the MENU
Starters Slow cooked octopus with chorizo tortellino, lemongrass and ginger sauce. Paté of chicken liver with Valrhona dark chocolate, kumquat and blood orange. Tartlet of Cornish crab with lemongrass and ginger, crab bisque purée. Main Courses Loin of Launde Farm lamb with sweetbread, roast aubergine, goat’s curd tortellino and red pepper purée. Ribeye of pork with braised kohlrabi, apple and crackling. Pan fried fillet of seabass with kimchi, caramelised fennel and vanilla sauce. Merrifield Farm duck with hispi cabbage, green pepper and mandarin. Desserts Cassis soufflé with star anise ice cream. Taste of Eccles with grape and Sauternes sorbet. Gariguette strawberries with elderflower chiboust, lemon curt and elderflower sorbet. Dark chocolate, frangelico and hazelnut ice cream.
Selection of farmhouse cheeses with Hambleton Bakery bread, grapes and celery.
NB: This is a sample menu, and featured dishes are subject to availability and change. “A new affiliation for Hambleton Hall is with Tim Appleton for a Restore & Rejuvenate offer which combines a birdwatching sortie with evening dining and an overnight stay...”
>> Aaron and his colleagues, including Charlie Jones and James Stone, also curate a kitchen garden in which they grow as much fresh produce as possible. Dining at Hambleton Hall might not be considered inexpensive but it is definitely good value, and its menus are fairly priced, given the ingredients and labour invested in each plate’s creation. That said, a Lunch for Less menu provides two courses for just £45 and a third course for £9.50, via a menu which offers two choices for each course. Also available during lunchtime service is the prix fixe lunch menu at £95/head, with a choice of four starters, four main courses and four desserts plus a cheese option. Evening dining is priced at £95/head too and also offers four courses each, plus desserts and farmhouse cheeseboard option. An additional Gourmet Corner area of the menu offers dishes which carry a supplement but offer something a little special. Examples include a Exmoor Baerii Caviar dish or a beef dish with Eryngii Mushrooms and Mooli.
Two additional mentions: firstly Hambleton Hall’s Sunday Lunch menu at £70/head, which includes the option of a traditional Sirloin of Beef, and Roast Fillet of Lamb among other dishes. Secondly, a dedicated vegetarian menu which comprises seven options, leaving those who favour a plantbased diet with plenty of choice.
Tim and Dominique have curated a wine list with bottles from about £35 to some really rare or desirable options for oenophiles who really know their stuff. Whatever your level of expertise, Dominique is always
happy to share his passion for good wine and make helpful suggestions. Beyond the dining room, Hambleton Hall is set within 17 acres of well-kept grounds – gardening being another keen interest of Tim and Stefa – and the view from the hotel’s terrace down to the reservoir over the formal gardens really are beautiful. One of the aspects of Hambleton Hall which has ensured guests return time and again, aside from the exceptional dining and accommodation, is its programme of events. This includes affiliations with Nevill Holt Opera, and Palmer Sport; see later in this edition. Next month will also see Hambleton Hall’s annual Fungi Foray, foraging through local woodland accompanied by mycologist Paul Nichol followed by lunch. The latest affiliation is with Tim Appleton MBE for a Restore & Rejuvenate offer which combines a guided birdwatching sortie with evening dining and an overnight stay. On 8th November, for example, Gilles Dudognon will visit Aaron to join him in the kitchen. Gilles is from Limoge’s La Chapelle Saint Martin which, like Hambleton Hall, has a Michelin Star and is an affiliate of the Relais & Châteaux luxury hotel group. Douglas Adams, who wrote The Hitchhiker’s Guide to the Galaxy in 1979 – the same year that Tim & Stefa purchased Hambleton Hall and that I came mewling into world –reckoned that meaning of life, the universe and everything is ‘42.’ On the evidence of the contentment I now feel in my own self, and on Hambleton Hall’s provision of good times and great dining, we’d heartily agree. n
DINING OUT AT... Hambleton Hall
The Pitch: Hambleton Hall is your luxurious home from home, renowned for impeccable service with elegantly-designed rooms and Michelin-starred cuisine.
Lunchtime Service: Monday to Saturday 12noon – 1.30pm. Sunday 12noon – 2.30pm.
Evening Service: Monday to Saturday 7pm – 9pm.
