RECIPES & WINE For Valentine’s Day

In the KITCHEN

The food of love this month with three suggestions for a Valentine’s Day-themed evening in... each of which can be prepared in advance so you’re not stuck in the kitchen!

DOUBLE BAKED CHEESE SOUFFLÉS

Preparation Time: 30 minutes. Cooking Time: 30 minutes. Serves: Two. 200ml whole milk • 1 bay leaf • 1 large garlic clove • 50g butter • 40g plain flour 2 tsp Dijon mustard • 100g mature Cheddar cheese, grated • 50g Gruyère cheese, grated 3 eggs, separated • 4 tbsp double cream • A few chives (optional)

Warm the milk in a small pan with the bay leaf and garlic. Turn off the heat and leave the milk to infuse for 30 minutes. Reheat just before using. Preheat the oven to 200°C/400°F/Gas 6 and heat a large baking tray. Melt the butter in a medium-sized pan and use a little to grease four 175ml cup ramekins. Whisk the remaining melted butter with the flour over a medium heat and cook the roux for 1 minute, stirring. Remove the bay leaf and garlic from the warm milk and gradually stir it into the roux. Bring to the boil, then turn the heat down and simmer for 5 minutes, stirring continuously until thick and smooth. Pour the white sauce into a bowl and stir in the mustard, Cheddar and 2 tablespoons of the Gruyère. Beat in the egg yolks, one at a time. In a separate large bowl, whisk the egg whites until they form stiff peaks. Using a metal spoon, fold the egg whites into the cheese mixture in three batches; you can add a few chives for colour/flavour if you wish. Spoon the mixture into the ramekins. Put the ramekins on the heated baking tray and bake for 18–20 minutes until risen. Leave to cool, run a knife around the edge of the soufflés and carefully turn them out. Chill until ready to serve. Heat the oven to 220°C/425°F/Gas 7. Put the soufflés on a baking tray, then spoon 1 tablespoon of the cream and the remaining Gruyère over each one. Bake for 10–12 minutes until risen and the cheese has melted. n

BEEF WELLINGTON FOR TWO

Preparation Time: One hour. Cooking Time: One hour, 20 minutes. Serves: Two. 20 g dried porcini or shiitake mushrooms • 2 sprigs of fresh rosemary • 230 g centre fillet of beef, trimmed olive oil • 2 cloves of garlic • 1 red onion • 250 g mixed mushrooms • truffle oil, optional 1 heaped teaspoon English mustard • 1 x 320 g sheet of all-butter puff pastry • 1 large free-range egg For the pancakes: 1 large free-range egg • 1 mug semi-skimmed milk • 1 mug self-raising flour , plus extra for dusting 100 g baby spinach • For the gravy: 1 red onion • 2 sprigs of fresh thyme • 1 heaped teaspoon blackcurrant jam 50 ml port • 1 heaped tablespoon plain flour • 500 ml organic beef stock

If the thought of preparing a Beef Wellington seems daunting, fear not. This recipe from Jamie Oliver is a slightly simplified version, and it can be prepared in advance, kept chilled then cooked whilst you enjoy your first course.

Soak the dried mushrooms in 250ml boiling water for 10 minutes, then drain and finely chop (reserving the soaking liquid for the gravy). Pick and finely chop 1 sprig of rosemary, season with sea salt and black pepper, then roll the fillet through it until nicely coated. Add 1 tablespoon of oil to a non-stick pan over a high heat. Lightly crush and add the unpeeled garlic cloves, then add the beef and sear for 5 minutes, turning with tongs. Remove to a plate to cool.

Wipe out the frying pan and return to a medium heat. Peel and roughly chop the onion, then squeeze out the softened garlic flesh and add to the pan. Strip in the rest of the rosemary, then tear in the mushrooms.

Pour in the beef resting juices, then add the soaked mushrooms. Cook for 15 minutes, or until soft and starting to caramelise, stirring regularly. Tip into a food processor with a few drops of truffle oil (if using) and blitz to a spreadable consistency. Taste and season to perfection.

For the pancakes, crack the egg into a blender, add the milk, flour, spinach and a pinch of salt and pepper, then blitz until smooth. Place a large 28cm non-stick frying pan on a medium heat, rub the pan with a little olive oil, then pour in a thin layer of batter, swirling it up and around the edges.

Cook on one side only for 2 minutes, or until lightly golden, then flip over and cook for another 10 seconds. Tip onto a plate to cool. Cover and chill the remaining batter for breakfast.

Preheat the oven to 220°C/425°F/gas 7. To assemble, place a large sheet of clingfilm on a clean surface and place your pancake on top. Spread with 1 heaped teaspoon of English mustard, then spread with the mushroom pâté in an even layer, leaving a 1cm border. Place the cooled beef fillet in the centre of the pancake, then gather up the clingfilm and twist into a parcel. On a flour-dusted surface, cut the pastry in half. Remove the clingfilm and place the pancake-wrapped beef on one piece of pastry. Beat the egg and brush over the pastry base and the pancake, then drape over the remaining piece of pastry to cover and press to seal, as though you’re making large ‘ravioli’. Trim the excess pastry (see tip), transfer to a large greased baking tray and eggwash all over. (If making in advance, pop in the fridge until needed, removing 1 hour before baking.) Cook the Wellington on the bottom of the oven for 25 minutes, or until the pastry is golden on top and crisp underneath, for blushing, juicy beef. Meanwhile, make the gravy. Peel and roughly chop the onion, place in a large pan on a medium heat with a tablespoon of oil, and strip in the thyme leaves. Cook for 20 minutes, stirring occasionally, then stir in the jam and simmer until dark and shiny. Add the port, flame with a match, cook away, then stir in the flour, followed gradually by the stock and reserved porcini liquid. Simmer to your desired consistency, then blitz with a stick blender and strain through a sieve. Leave the Wellington to rest for 5 minutes before slicing and serving with the gravy. Delicious served with steamed greens. n

CHOCOLATE MOUSSE

Preparation Time: 15 minutes. Serves: Two. 100g dark chocolate (75 per cent cocoa solids), broken into pieces 120ml warm water • two large eggs, separated • 20g golden caster sugar To serve: a little whipped cream (optional), strawberries or raspberries (optional).

First of all place the broken-up chocolate and 4 fl oz (120 ml) warm water in a large heatproof bowl, which should be sitting over a saucepan of barely simmering water, making sure the bowl doesn't touch the water. Then, keeping the heat at its lowest, allow the chocolate to melt slowly – it should take about 6 minutes. Now remove it from the heat and give it a good stir until it's smooth and glossy, then let the chocolate cool for 2-3 minutes before stirring in the egg yolks. Then give it another good mix with a wooden spoon. Next, in a clean bowl, whisk the egg whites to the soft-peak stage, then whisk in the sugar, about a third at a time, then whisk again until the whites are glossy. Now, using a metal spoon, fold a tablespoon of the egg whites into the chocolate mixture to loosen it, then carefully fold in the rest. You need to have patience here – it needs gentle folding and cutting movements so that you retain all the precious air, which makes the mousse light. Next divide the mousse between the ramekins or glasses and chill for at least 2 hours, covered with clingfilm. It’s also good to serve the mousse with a blob of softly whipped cream on top. n

Recipe from Delia Smith’s Complete How To Cook, 700 pages, RRP £45, www.deliaonline.com.

Chocolate and wine for your Valentine...

On the off chance that you are, or you know, a lady who enjoys both wine and chocolate, this should be of interest. Chief Chocolate Officer has analysed the typical tasting notes of the UK’s six most popular wine grapes and produced a premium range of unique chocolate bars. These work so well that when paired with their chosen grape, they mutually enhance the enjoyment of both. Cab Sav, Pinot and Chardonnay are among the six flavours available. n £3.99/100g, available from chiefchocolateofficer.com.

The Wine Cellar

Wine of the Month

Follador Prosecco Superiore Torri di Credazzo

Venato, Italy, 2017 12% ABV, £14.99 Prosecco remains the drink of the moment, with 2020 sales of some examples rising by about 30% over the year. Some reckon sales are abating as we reach peak-Prosecco, but before that happens, you might want to toast your beaux with Follador’s Superiore Torri di Credazzo, an elegant Prosecco from a top single vineyard. Supple, full-bodied, savoury and fulfilling, with nuances of apple, peach and rose petals. Bright yellow straw with greenish reflections. Very fine and persistent bubbles. n

THIS MONTH WE WAIT OUT THE WINTER WITH SOME HEAVYWEIGHT FRENCH REDS AND WE ENJOY A NIBBLE OF SOME DELICIOUS CHOCOLATE TOO...

THREE OF A KIND: HEAVYWEIGHT LUXURY FRENCH WINTER REDS...

1. Abandon faith all ye who consume this Rhône, a Châteauneuf-du-Pape, especially the 2008/2010 varieties. A grenache blend that’s as full-bodied as they come, sumptuous and silky. £80 / 70cl / 14.5% ABV.

2. God bless the French producing wine like this. A 2001 forest fruit Margaux of exceptional provenance. Dark flavours of fig and liquorice give this wine a hefty nose and real elegance and longevity with nice balance. £78.18 / 70cl / 13.5 ABV.

3.Our third offering is this syrah-based Rhône sporting some dark red fruit, and a pronounced oak flavour. Produced by father and daughter Philippe & Emilie Desmeure. £60 / 70cl / 14%

Sloe sloe, quick quick: a super winter tipple from Warner Edwards

From the hedgerows to your winter, via the magnificent local distillery of Warner Edwards. The firm specialises in superb premium flavoured gins with a gentle tinkling of botanicals and water from an underground spring. This superb sloe gin variant is intensely fruity, bursting with berries and has cherry and almond flavours. Ideal for a winter tipple from your hip flask whilst out hacking on horseback, or to be taken in liberal quantities in front of an open fire, snuggled up on Valentine’s Day! 70cl, 30% ABV, £24.99.

n Our featured wines are available from the best local independent wine merchants, supermarkets and online, prices are RRP and may vary from those stated.