Always Excellent Dining at the BROWNLOW ARMS

It’s unusual, but this month we’re advocating a trip out of the Rutland, about half an hour from Stamford to be precise. You’ll find that a comfortable restaurant and high quality dining are just two of the treats to be discovered at The Brownlow Arms, at Hough on the Hill near Grantham, a pretty country inn with lots of tradition and talent...

Words & Images: Rob Davis.

SOME THINGS NEVER CHANGE Some things should... but others really shouldn’t, and definitely falling into the latter category is The Brownlow Arms at Hough on the Hill. Since 1979, Paul & Lorraine Willoughby have been custodians of the 17th century country inn, formerly owned by Lord Brownlow, at Hough on the Hill. Paul initially purchased the property with his parents before he became sole owner in 1983. Together they renovated The Brownlow before selling it in 1999, and then returning in 2003 to a run down premises which lead to them giving the Brownlow another make-over.

Their long-term custodianship of the place underwrites The Brownlow Arms’ rock solid reputation for consistency and quality; it’s one of those ‘can’t go wrong’ dining options. So what do you do when you’ve acquired a reputation over 43 years for excellence, two AA rosettes for your dining, an award from Hardens, one from the Good Food Guide, and the title Restaurant of the Year as voted for by our sister publication Lincolnshire Pride’s readers?

You could increase the number of covers? No. You could increase the complexity of the food? No. You could just hike up the prices? No, no and no. Instead, Paul and Lorraine, along with chefs Matt, David and Lizzy have opted to reduce the number of covers a little to ensure the team has the headroom to work to the best of their ability.

They’ve ceased to offer lunchtime dining, enabling the staff to concentrate on the quality and consistency of their evening menu, and they’ve ensured they all work well together. This has created a happy, close-knit team which is reflected in the quality of the excellent dining experience.

Sous Chef David Newton points out – whilst treating our saddle of venison to a few spoonfuls of its silken red wine jus – that a good sauce takes time.

If they were juggling prep for evening service with lunchtime covers, compromise would be needed, and the team doesn’t really do compromise; rather, it does quality. What’s nice, too, is a single menu, with six starters, and six main courses plus two steaks. >>

Meet The Chef

DAVID NEWTON

Career: “I was raised in Grantham and worked at The Olive Branch before coming here in 2019.

Food Heaven: “I really love venison, lovely and rich!”

Food Hell: “I’ve a sweet tooth so I love desserts but I really don’t like preparing them... luckily we have Lizzy to provide that speciality!”