PANDEMIC

The COVID-19 crisis has undoubtedly devastated global markets, burdening our beloved fashion industry. Fear erupted as cases rose and lockdowns were put in place by state and local authorities. As retailers shut down, many started to work from home and the uncertain state of the world affected all aspects of life. Fashion was put on the back burner, becoming the least of our concerns. Instead, consumers ventured out to local grocery stores, geared up in face masks and gloves to fight for essential products. Due to high demands, the country faced mass shortages of products such as sanitizing supplies and toilet paper. Production ramped up in warehouses and fulfillment centers—for retailers like Amazon, it was reported that there was an overwhelming demand placed on the workers. Amazon executives urged employees to work more efficiently in order to live up to Amazon Prime’s two-day delivery guarantee. As a result, many complaints and lawsuits were filed against Amazon for creating a dangerous work environment. Countless other essential retailers faced similar issues, resulting in shortened hours of operation and extra sanitization throughout the stores. The pandemic has changed consumer behavior, placing a new demand on retailers to rethink daily operations.

As unemployment rates surged and fear around a possible recession surfaced, consumers shifted their demands away from fashion and luxury sectors. Retailers were now faced with creating strategies in order to ensure the survival of their businesses, all while abiding by local laws. A McKinsey & Company article shared insight into incorporating key strategies, such as omnichannel retailing, into business practices. Prior to the pandemic, the omnichannel approach to retailing was becoming popular—omnichannel retailing involves using multiple sales platforms in order to sell products. The pandemic accelerated this omnichannel revolution, forcing companies to make a huge decision: adapt or go bankrupt.

The unpredictable state of the world caused retailers to question the stability of their consumer demographic. As a result, they turned to technology and uncovered the answers they had been searching for. The Business of Fashion article titled “Who is Still Shopping?” suggested, through analytics and research, that there was still high consumer demand. The pandemic split consumers into two groups: those who concluded shopping was pointless since they had nowhere to go, and those who used retail therapy to lighten their mood. The majority of individuals yearning to shop were part of the Millennial and Gen Z cohorts, with stable jobs and an overwhelming sense of boredom. These young consumers missed out on milestone events such as proms, graduation, and weddings, and shopping was one of the only solutions to cure their sorrow. Services such as After Pay—a platform which allows consumers to purchase products and pay for them in small installments over a period of time—became widely popular to this demographic. Overall, consumers are still shopping for items that they use in their daily lives during quarantine.

As Zoom meetings became part of the new culture, many consumers turned to prioritizing their attire from the waist up. Statement jewelry, makeup products, and fancy attire grace the top half, while loungewear exists on the bottom half. The pandemic tightened the budgets of many, resulting in consumers turning to omnichannel retailers that served as a one-stop shop. Whether they were searching to revamp their home décor or buy a new lip color for their upcoming Zoom call, retailers that provided several categories under one roof were more likely to succeed.

Once restrictions on non-essential businesses eased, retailers brainstormed different approaches to reopen their stores. To ensure the safety of all customers, retailers closed dressing rooms, frequently disinfected high contact areas, capped the number of individuals allowed in the store, and turned to omnichannel methods. The more options provided by a retailer to ensure the safety of their consumers, the more secure consumers felt.

With online shopping being the main sales channel during the pandemic, many retailers are skeptical whether consumers will ever want to return to their brick-and-mortar stores again. The reality is that many people are becoming more comfortable with shopping online. The Business of Fashion article, “Who is Still Shopping?” noted, that although every consumer is different, the majority expect to continue to shop online for the time being. In order for retailers to get consumers back into their stores, they have to implement services under the omnichannel retailing umbrella. Contactless curbside pick-up and same day delivery services not only cater to the needs of the consumer, but boost consumer confidence.

The country’s attention shifted toward social issues regarding racism and discrimination during the pandemic. The killings of George Floyd and Breonna Taylor prompted more consumers to support Black-owned businesses and designers, in addition to showing their support through rallies and protests. Many took action to support the movement by posting on social media, signing petitions, and representing their beliefs through Black Lives Matter merchandise. Consumers put pressure on brands, demanding statements regarding where they stood on the Black Lives Matter movement. In addition, consumers demanded change from massive retailers that only carried designs and products from white designers. As a result, many retailers participated in the 15 Percent Pledge which assures that 15% of merchandise is sourced from Black-owned businesses or designers. Companies that assured their participation include Rent the Runway, Sephora, Whole Foods, Saks Fifth Avenue, Neta-Porter, and Target.

The fashion industry is continuing to evolve and face the repercussions of the pandemic. The harsh realities of the fashion industry are becoming more apparent to consumers, and through this new lens, consumers are demanding complete transparency from retailers. As a result, many brands are beginning to take accountability for their actions. Consumers are the key to creating a better and more equal world through the pressures they put on large companies.

Emily Ohlson

“Consumers are the key to creating a better and more equal world through the pressures they put on large companies.”

TREND REPORT AUTUMN/WINTER 20/21

Photography by Matthew Searth Model: Samantha Jenkins

The A/W 20/21 trend forecast highlights the aesthetics and many popular fashions of the late 90s and early 2000s. These trends are seeing a reemergence in the age of the pandemic, many of which were created and popularized by Black culture. Flu y velour tracksuits, chunky gold jewelry, full glossy lips, and camouflage cargos transport us back to the days when Aaliyah was the hottest fashion icon and Baby Phat was the most sought-a er brand. Butterfly clips, bucket hats, baggy pants, and blinged-out accessories shine bright against an early 2000s Windows computer inspired backdrop, inspiring a bittersweet feeling of nostalgia. Emma Ingenohl