In pursuit of an eternally youthful complexion

Arguably the most researched sector of skincare, and the one into which the most investment is made, is that of anti-ageing. According to Statista, the global skincare industry has witnessed a shift from demand from older consumers to a growing younger consumer base keen to delay the signs of ageing. Here we focus on some of the latest anti-ageing ingredients

Chilean grape seed

From Danish medical grade skincare brand is Beauté Pacifique’s Chilean grape seed infused Paradoxe range. Serum Paradoxe is based on high concentrations of both squalane and the Chilean grape seed extract (GSPE), which has ‘near’ medical properties, as in the brand’s flagship product, Crème Paradoxe, but re-formulated into a super potent serum that submerges deeply into the skin, providing a strong anti-age effect and a remarkable anti-reddening effect on rosacea-looking skin. Serum Paradoxe improves visually large pores, uneven pigmentation and blushing skin tone, as well as adding a visible glow to your make-up. The product, which contains two types of vitamin E, also provides cellular defence against aggressive free radicals. Skin-compatible squalene enables the serum to submerge deeply into the skin and ‘re-fill’ squalene that is lost previously in sun-damaged and aged skin. The surface of the skin immediately appears smoothed and perfectly prepared for makeup. Make-up can be applied either directly, or pre-mixed with Serum Paradoxe, or traditionally after applying a Beauté Pacifique day cream, securing your daily moisturising routine.

Growth factor technology

Designed to promote rejuvenation, the AQ Skin Solutions Active Serum contains patented Growth Factor Technology (U.S. Pat. 8,518,879) to help stimulate natural growth, as well as organise and maintain your own skin cells.

AQ Active Serum has been formulated to maintain a stable conformation of high-purity fibroblast growth factors that are genetically similar to those naturally made by the body. Supplementing the face and neck with AQ Active Serum can help the skin naturally rejuvenate itself, returning the skin to its youthful state. The product helps decrease wrinkles and fine lines, while aiming to build collagen naturally. It improves the appearance of skin texture and pigmentation and can fade stubborn sun damage, age spots and scars Say the experts at AQ Skin Solutions: “Perceived skin ageing, such as wrinkles, roughness, pigmentation and loss of elasticity, is largely due to damage caused by environmental factors. In fact, researchers have found that almost 90% of skin ageing is due to exposure to UV light from the sun. This process is known as photoageing. Air pollution, smoking, and irritable toxins are among other factors contributing to perceived ageing. Repeated exposure to these factors results in skin that is unable to maintain its structure and health due to the breakdown of collagen and decreased production of growth factors. Designed to target the undereye area, the AQ Skin Solutions Eye Serum utilises a gentle formula to promote smoother looking skin. It helps to stimulate the skin’s natural process of rejuvenation with a patented growth factor (GF) blend and active ingredients used to target bilirubin. Daily use can lead to younger, brighter, and tighter looking skin. This product aims to increase firmness, while several smoothing peptides help to tighten sagging skin, smooth wrinkles, and decrease the appearance of fine lines. AQ Eye Serum also helps with micro-circulation of the under-eye area, addressing bags and dark circles.

Focus on the neck

No matter how healthy the face looks, the neckline can tell a different story, as skin on the neck is thinner than facial skin. This makes it particularly vulnerable to sun damage and the wrinkle-

deepening motion of looking down at devices, otherwise known as ‘tech neck’. Lack of proper skin care can further exacerbate these effects. Dermalogica’s newly released Neck fit contour serum is specifically tailored to address the needs of neck skin. This serum, in the form of a lightweight roll-on, was designed with advanced ingredients to provide a lifting and tightening effect to visibly smooth fine lines and wrinkles on the neck and décolleté. One of the key ingredients is Flex lift Contour technology, which acts like an invisible mesh to immediately tighten skin with powerful polymers. Advanced ingredients tone over time to deliver retinol-like results. This technology is made up of a hydrolysed biopolymer produced by a microorganism living in plant roots and acacia Senegal gum plus Oligosaccharides from Kappaphycus alvarezii extract and Caesalpinia spinosa fruit extract. As the mesh retracts, it smoothes and tightens skin for an immediate visible lifting effect and immediate decrease in the appearance of wrinkle depth. It also helps to decrease the penetration of environmental pollutants that can lead to premature signs of skin ageing. Rye Seed Extract, a novel Palmitoyl Tripeptide-42, and Rambutan Extract work together to deliver retinol-like results, visibly smoothing, firming and toning skin. Resurrection Plantinspired polysaccharide helps strengthen skin’s moisture barrier for a smooth, even appearance, while Griffonia Seed Extract provides antioxidant defense to help safeguard results against free radicals.

Youthful elixir

The Avance Elixir from Environ contains Měiritage, a unique blend of extracts from Chinese roots used in traditional medicine, which has been shown to be effective in reducing the effects of oxidative stress (UV radiation and pollution) and lightening the appearance of uneven skin tone. Avance Elixir also contains a combination of three powerful peptide complexes that may assist in improving the overall structure of the skin. This powerful combination of ingredients in this multifunctional serum may leave the skin looking radiantly luminous and resiliently younger for longer.

Peeling power

Cosmeceutical peeling, in the past, was based on removing as many dead skin cells as possible, to trigger the skin cell renewal

Photo by Retha Ferguson Pexels

process to heal itself and therefore improve the various skin conditions and types. The new SkinPhD peels have a vastly different and unique concept to fit into the new generational lifestyles we lead. The question that must be asked prior to peeling is: ‘How able is the skin to heal itself when exposed to more stress, more pollution, more medication usage and the newest damaging factor from blue light in devices?’ The simple answer to this question is that the skin is not as able to selfheal as 20 years ago. That is why SkinPhD has developed the latest phenomena in peeling – peel but support the skin to heal – through its Surface to Cell concept. A major factor in skin healing and optimal anti-ageing is cellular energy. By using peeling acids in combination with PEPHA®-CTIVE, SkinPhD has achieved the following: protecting the cell’s ‘battery’ or mitochondria against oxidative stress caused by free radicals; increasing the cellular energy by up to 140% which offers immediate skin radiance that is sorely lacking in ageing skin; improving the fibroblast proliferation by up to 320% for reversal of lines, wrinkles and sagging skin; and dramatically increasing cell renewal by four to five days, giving the skin a fresher and more luminous appearance SkinPhD remains committed to changing the way skin is treated by using maximum concentrations, effective ingredient combinations and independent clinically tested pharmaceutical ingredients.

Resurrection plant

The recently released Esse Resurrect Serum takes its name from the Namibian plant, Myrothamnus Flabellifolia, or ‘Resurrection Plant’, which grows in the Namib, the oldest desert in the world. The nickname comes from its unique ability to come back to life in a matter of hours after it has been dried out – even if it has not seen a drop of water for many years. The Resurrection Plant has high polyphenol content

and is a potent protector against free radicals. An independent study conducted with 20 women has shown that extracts of the Resurrection Plant rapidly improve skin hydration and the effect lasts for 24 hours after a single application. The Esse formula, developed by the brand’s founder and biochemist, Trevor Steyn, contains Bakuchiol and Gamma Aminobutyric Acid (GABA). Bakuchiol is hailed as ‘retinol without the side-effects’ and is extracted from Indian Babchi seeds. It stimulates the three key processes associated with retinol but without the associated sensitivity. The result is wrinkle reduction, improvements in skin firmness, prevention of future damage and reduction in the symptoms of problem skin. GABA is an amino acid that provides vital nutrients to the skin that help accelerate cell turnover and the rebuilding of support structures. It fights, rather than causes, inflammation and nourishes irritated skin to help even out the appearance of discolouration and redness. These actives, together with one million tyndallised probiotics per ml are housed in a base of aloe gel with prebiotics to feed microbial diversity and improve barrier function.

New phase

RégimA is entering a very exciting new power phase by introducing RégimA Medic. Products are formulated with powerful antiageing in mind. The first product to be launched – RégimA Medic Peel de Monaco – Profond Exfolier is a very powerful, strictly in-salon treatment. The first of two new anti-ageing ingredients within Peel de Monaco is Bakuchiol (Sytenol A), an exciting retinol alternative, proven as effective. As a natural alternative to retinol, Bakuchiol offers much better skin tolerance with the absence of phototoxicity and no other drawbacks. Bakuchiol provides superior skincare benefits both for antiageing and anti-acne, offering antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antibacterial and mitochondrial protection properties from oxidative stress. Trials between Bakuchiol and Retinol established the benefits, significantly decreasing wrinkles and hyperpigmentation, with no

statistical difference between the two actives. It concluded Bakuchiol is comparable to retinol in its ability to improve photoageing, and with better tolerance. Bakuchiol also offers benefits for acne, reducing sebum production, bacteria, inflammation, and hyperkeratinisation; clinically proven to reduce the severity of acne. The other new ingredient in Peel de Monaco is Dragosantol 100, the purest nature identical d,l-alpha-Bisabolol with Farnesol. This Highly effective product is anti-inflammatory and reduces skin irritation. Dragosantol® 100 is a monocyclic, unsaturated sesquiterpene alcohol used as an anti-irritant in sensitive skin products.

Creamy formula

The QMS Collagen Recovery Day & Night Cream is a deeply moisturising recovery cream that helps to combat skin dryness, the appearance of wrinkles and loss of firmness, including effects caused by hormonal changes. Its creamy formula contains QMS’ renowned Neotec A15® Collagen-Hyaluronic Acid complex, combined with advanced Biomimetic Placenta to improve elasticity, reduce wrinkles’ appearance and boost moisturisation, Red Clover Extract blend of natural moisturising factors that assist in prolonged hydration and protection of the skin. This product is noncomedogenic, fragrance-free and paraben-free, with no added colour, no lanolin or mineral oil. It is not tested on animals.

(ideal to reduce wrinkles density and renew the skin matrix), and multi-benefit Niacinamide, among other potent actives, to nurture the skin with a velvety blanket of enriched goodness.

Vitamin power

The VITA A Cream from pHformula is an advanced 24-hour treatment. This vitamin A-infused moisturiser helps to reduce the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and age spots from both photo and intrinsic ageing. Suitable for all skin types except sensitive and rosacea-prone skins, this product cannot be used if you are pregnant or lactating. Key ingredients include pure retinol, the gold standard of anti-ageing ingredients. It also helps in correcting blemishes and blotchiness often associated with problematic skin. The 24hour moisturising complex in the formula comprises a synergistic

Extra boost

From LCN, the Youth Hyaluron Shot is targeted for every skin in need of an extra boost of care. This serum provides the skin with additional moisture and offers lasting protection. The optimal moisture penetration results in an increase in elasticity. The product contains a low molecular hyaluronic acid, which penetrates the skin to provide the ideal moisture reserve. In addition, this shot contains radical scavenging properties. Also from LCN, the Instant Oxygen Shot serves as an oxygen-booster fort the skin. The oxygen supply is achieved by the ingredients complex of mannitol, faex extract, glycogen and magnesium.