Feeding the skin

Feeding skin the

Just as vitamins are essential to your health and body functions, the topical application of skincare products formulated with vitamins can play an important role in correcting your client’s skin conditions and maintaining a healthy complexion.

Two forms

Beauté Pacifique’s Super3 Vitamin A Anti-Wrinkle Booster Cream includes two different forms of vitamin A, each with its own way of rejuvenating the skin’s collagen and elastin fibre structure. The synthesis of collagen and elastin fibres is boosted to reinforce the skin’s elastic properties and this also makes the skin less transparent. Super3 Vitamin A Anti-Wrinkle Booster Cream repairs the damage caused by the sun and clearly reduces wrinkles and stretch marks. The cream is also effective for the treatment of thin skin, for example on the back of the hands and on dry and brittle nails.

It reduces the skin’s sebum secretion and contains propolis for the treatment and prevention of impure skin, including active pimples as in teenage skin. The product should be applied very sparingly onto cleansed skin every second night. If erythema occurs, wait until the skin calms down before reintroducing the cream. Then increase the frequency of usage as individually needed.

Dynamic combo

In Dermalogica’s newly launched Retinol Clearing Oil, retinol and salicylic acid are combined for the first time in a single soothing oil. This product, which falls within the Active

Clearing range for adult acne, reduces the appearance of dark spots, fine lines, wrinkles and hyperpigmentation, while clearing acne overnight. It contains skin mimicking, plant-derived lipids to help soothe, nourish and protect the skin for clearer, more vibrant complexion.

Says Angela Taylor, Dermalogica’s international education manager for Europe, Middle East & Africa: “Not only does Retinol Clearning Oil target breakouts, it also works on the signs of physical ageing and boosts the skin by renewing and soothing it overnight. This product will deliver clearer and more vibrant skin by morning.

“The key ingredients are timereleased retinol and 2% salicylic acid. We have also included a blend of phytoactive oils – argan, rosehip and jojoba – to deliver a lightweight oil.

“Retinoid is the name given to the entire range of vitamin A ingredients, which come in different forms. To be able to work on the skin, a retinoid must be converted into retinoic acid. In our Retinol Clearing Oil, we have used a retinol ester (retinyl propionate) as well as a retinoid booster. When combined, this gives the same efficacy of retinol but without causing irritation to the skin.

“The addition of 2% salicylic acid to the formulation dissolves pore blocking sebum. It’s also anti-inflammatory and enhances the natural exfoliation process. By adding the phytoactive lipid complex of argan, rosehip and jojoba oils, we are providing antioxidants and vitamin E, while also helping to prevent trans-epidermal water loss.”

Round-the-clock

The ACE Vitamin Day & Night Cream from QMS Medicosmetics is described as a clever moisturiser with a built-in clock as during the day it protects, while at night it regenerates the skin.

Through its dynamically built carrying-cycles, active vitamin ingredients and a moisturising factor unfold in a way normally achieved through multiple products. ACE Vitamin Cream protects during the day, relaxes your skin in the evening, and regenerates during the night. This combination helps to improve the skin’s tone, restore a smooth texture and provide all day hydration.

Distinctive ingredient

Environ’s Skin Care philosophy is based on vitamin A. Says Environ founder, Dr Des Fernandes: “This ingredient is vital to the health of the skin, and when combined with antioxidants and peptides, one can visibly see their long-term effect on the skin. Our main philosophy is to restore the levels of vitamin A in the skin. Once the levels have been restored, skin abnormalities can be addressed, and the functions of the skin can be normalised.

“Normal, healthy-looking skin has the right levels of vitamin A. If your skin is dry or oily, it may be a sign of a vitamin A deficiency. The only way to restore the vitamin A deficiency in the skin is through topical application of vitamin A.

“I believe that vitamin A is the skin’s most important vitamin. Because it absorbs UV energy, it is damaged by what no-one in the world can avoid – sunlight. Vitamin A is the one molecule that plays a vital role in our metabolic processes and works with the DNA to determine the behaviour of stem cells. It dominates from conception to the grave.”

Dr Fernandes notes that all forms of vitamin A can help to avert any further photo-ageing and collagen damage. These forms also hydrate and rejuvenate the skin. Topical application of vitamin A is the best way to counteract the effects of sun damage to the skin within hours.

The C factor

Ursula Volbrecht of DermaFix Cosmeceutical Skin Care believes that of all the antioxidants used in skincare, vitamin C is the most popular. She continues: “Often >

used as protection against harmful free radicals, this multifunctional ingredient offers skin brightening benefits along with anti-ageing properties as vitamin C plays an important role within the production of collagen and elastin. It can be found within our DermaFix VitaPlex C, DermaFix Ferulic + C + E, DermaFix ACC Vitamin and DermaFix Vitamin C Serum formulations.

“Niacinamide (vitamin B) is another versatile ingredient that offers a multitude of skin benefits. Vitamin B helps to improve skin barrier function, minimises redness and blotchiness, regulates oil production, and helps to renew and restore the surface of the skin to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. DermaFix Cosmeceutical Skin Care makes use of this wonder vitamin in the DermaFix Vitamin B Cream, as well as within our MD Prescriptives range of products.”

DermaFix offers all the benefits of retinol without the negative side effects as seen in MD Prescriptives Vitamin A Propionate, making use of Vitamin A Propionate for skin vitalisation benefits, and the DermaFix ACC Retinol + with Cylasphere® Retinol, a revolutionary ingredient of plant origin, obtained with a technology of encapsulation of retinol in microcapsules. This allows for a slow release into the skin for improved bioavailability, efficacy, and a gentler use. In addition to Cylasphere® Retinol, the DermaFix ACC Retinol + formulation also includes vitamin C for additional antioxidant protection and skin brightening benefits.

Five technologies

RégimA utilises vitamins in every product due to their renowned antioxidant and anti-inflammatory action.

Says RégimA’s Jacqui Faucitt: “We use the usual retinol and tocopherol, plus oil soluble vitamin C, however, RégimA also draws a plethora of vitamins from a variety of exciting natural sources, making unique anti-ageing products. “One of our products that particularly stands out from the crowd regarding an abundance of vitamins is the Techno 5 Resurfacer.” Suitable and beneficial for all skins, this product combines five new technologies. It provides a resurfacing effect; biomimetic (imitating nature) peeling; anti-glycation; brightening effect utilising a unique polymer technology with optical diffusion effect; and incorporates a tropical fruit compound.

All the ingredients in Techno 5 Resurfacer are rich in vitamins. The product is formulated with kombucha, mango pulp extract, banana (vitamins C, E, and B6), pineapple fruit, papaya, yellow mombin pulp extract, rose hip oil, blackcurrant seed oil, lecithin and olive fruit oil.

Boosting capsules

Black Pearl has launched the Time Control Limited Edition Vitamin C Capsules. With no added preservatives and perfumes, these capsules are a strong vitamin C boost for the skin.

“Thanks to our amazing technologies, these ingredients can penetrate into the deeper layers of the skin. With the high concentration of vitamin C, you will also get a high dose of antioxidants for your skin, which boost the skin’s cell function. Vitamin C stimulates cell turnover and will help to even out skin tone, address dark spots and smooth out fine lines and wrinkles,” says Black Pearl South Africa’s Michelle Roberts.

Granactive retinoid

Placecol believes that the most effective vitamins that have a direct effect on ageing are vitamin A and vitamin C.

Say the Placecol team: “However, many vitamins have strong antioxidant benefits that reverse free radical damage and stop oxidative stress in the skin, which can accelerate ageing. We are most proud of our Placecol Illuminé Retinol Serum and Placecol Excellence Gravity Lift Solution, both of which utilise our unique retinol formulation. It is a granactive retinoid, which means that there is no UV sensitivity, no skin thinning or peeling. It is a far more advanced retinoid derivative that renews skin plumpness, increases collagen and elastin,

thereby reducing the signs of ageing. An increase in cell turnover means a thicker and more robust skin, coupled with an increase in the synthesis of extracellular proteins and glycans.”

Alphabet

The ABC line of pHformula contains three essential skin vitamins introduced at high concentration levels and formulated in a 24-hour moistureretaining complex for beautiful skin. The Vita A cream contains pure retinol and should be used as an advanced treatment product for ageing skin. Retinol helps stimulate cell regeneration to diminish the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles and age spots from both photo- and intrinsic ageing. pHformula’s Vita B3 cream contains niacinamide at prescription strength, which results in superior skin correction benefits, while the Vita C Cream prevents and reverses visible signs of skin ageing and pigment changes.

Stability

Although vitamin C is a very popular active ingredient in cosmetics, the lack of stability has always been the main reason why this vitamin has often not been used at the appropriate levels in cosmetic formulations. Anesi makes use of Stay C, a stable ester formed by ascorbic and palmitic acid to create a liposoluble form of vitamin C.

For home use, Anesi’s Emulsion Stem C3 contains plant stem cell technology incorporated in a concentrated silky serum to target chronological ageing to help delay deterioration of essential skin cells.

Antioxidants vitamin C and orange extract strengthen the natural skin barrier and fight free radicals to prevent oxidative damage. Hydroviton, a blend of natural moisturising factors, rejuvenates and hydrates.

Intense treatment

The SIX Vitamin C Brightening Moisturiser is a powerful formulation that reduces levels of damaging free radicals, increases skin firmness, brightens skin tone and generates effective wrinkle reduction.

It is recommended to be used in the form of a four-week treatment, three times a year, as an excellent seasonal booster that must be used in conjunction with the SIX Vitamin A Serum. Skin is instantly energised, hydrated and repaired, diminishing fine lines and wrinkles and giving the skin a more even tone complexion.

Fruit extracts

The SKNlogic skincare range is very centered around vitamins, with most of its products containing vitamin A, C and E. A lot of fruit extracts are included in the formulations because of their varied vitamin complement.

Especially designed for ageing skin and containing all three vitamins, SKNnight Plus includes growth factor peptides and hyaluronic acid to combat prematurely-ageing skin conditions, while it repairs and protects.

SKNnight Plus reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and simultaneously improves the texture, tone and colour of the skin. As its name suggests, it should only be used in the evening. PB