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Our beauty industry experts answer questions about every aspect of running a successful salon or spa business. I offer eyelash extension services at my salon and wonder if the wearing of COVID face masks affects lash application and retention?
It has recently been established that one reason for poor lash retention is the wearing of face masks during a treatment. This is because a large amount of moisture gathers in the mask during a lash treatment, which is then released through the top of the mask onto the lashes. Although eyelash extension adhesive is reliant on moisture to cure, too much moisture is not a good thing as the adhesive cures a lot faster than usual, resulting in poor lash retention.
This dynamic can also cause adhesive blooming or lash blooming, which occurs when adhesive vapours come into contact with too much moisture before the adhesive has time to cure. The technical term for the cyanoacrylate blooming is called chlorosis, when the monomers in the adhesive cure into small clumps or clusters that appear white or frosted. Not only is this unattractive, it is also irritating to the eyes and the lash extensions will most certainly not last as long as they should. To prevent the blooming process, you should ensure that there is sufficient and properly regulated ventilation within your working environment at all times, for the adhesive to work at its best.
Top tips
Change the client’s mask to a disposable one before the treatment, as these are a lot easier to tape down to reduce moisture coming out the top. Tape the top of mask down with Transpore Tape. Ask clients to keep talking to a minimum, because talking creates even more moisture and causes the mask to move. Keep a constant check and control on the humidity and temperature levels. I recommend a temperature of between 19-24 degrees Celsius and a Relative Humidity of between 40-55%. Purchasing a thermohygrometer will help you to monitor this. If your adhesive is setting too quickly, it could be that the temperature and humidity levels are too high. In this case, cool your room down. Using a de-humidifier will also assist. Conversely, adhesive will set too slowly if the temperature and humidity levels are too low. Use a more versatile adhesive that adjusts to different environments. Ensure that you use your adhesive according to manufacturer’s guidelines. Allow the bottle to stand at room temperature for 30 minutes prior to treatment. Shake the bottle for approximately 20 seconds before dispensing it. Use just the right amount and change your adhesive bead every 15 minutes, or as soon as it starts to set. Store your adhesive properly. Never take the whole top off the bottle, as air and moisture will enter, causing the glue to deteriorate. Clean the nozzle after every use with a lint free wipe. Do not use cotton wool or baby wipes as the fibres can react with the adhesive and could cause an exothermic reaction.
Sonette van Rensburg has been in the beauty industry for 30 years, and has worked with, and educated for, many top professional brands. She is the South African distributor for The Eyelash Emporium.
