UV & LED Light Technology

Following on from NailFile’s last article on how misinformation is harming our industry, SONETTE VAN RENSBURG discusses the facts about UV & LED gel light technology, a topic that is just as important

Traditional UV lamps have been around since gel nail products first came onto the nail scene a number of years ago, but today mostly LED technology is being used. Both UV and LED are used for the curing process of gel nail coating products – these are some of the most technically sophisticated and complex products in the beauty industry. They have a very specific formula containing photoinitiators, which work like a switch and require the use of UV light to kick-start the polymerisation process.

A traditional UV lamp has long, tube-like bulbs known as CFLs (Compact Fluorescent Lights), whereas LED Lamps have many tiny little LED (Light Emitting Diode) bulbs. LED lamps, however, are known to cure gel products much faster than traditional UV lamps. Nowadays everything is about being able to conduct services in a much faster time, as time is money, right? Well, not always, so never compromise quality and most of all, safety, for

Although UV and LED lamps work pretty much in the same way, they have different wavelengths and intensities. While UV emits a broader spectrum of wavelengths, LED emits a narrower and more directed spectrum of wavelengths.

the sake of time and money.

UV and LED nail lamps come in different shapes and sizes and can cost anything from as little as R39 up to a couple of thousand rand. Why, you might ask? Aren’t they all the same and don’t they do the same thing? Why should I spend more on a lamp rather than just buying the cheapest one available?

Let’s first understand exactly what’s behind UV and LED light technology, what they’re used for, how they work, and the issues surrounding them.

Differences

You might wonder what the difference is between the two technologies. In actual fact, LED light is UV light, as they both emit UV wavelengths and light within the UV light spectrum. What you need to know though is that there are different types of UV, UVA, UVB and UVC. The photoinitiators in gel products require lower levels of UVA to cure them, therefore the lamps used for curing gel products are designed to emit UVA light and are considered safe for use on the nails and skin.

In one of Doug Schoon’s posts he says that… “Many still don’t understand that LED is a type of “bulb”, NOT a type of “light”. LED nail lamps emit MORE UV, that’s how they cure faster. In other words, the intensity of UV is much greater with LED nail lamps, when compared to traditional nail lamps using fluorescent bulbs.

Although UV and LED lamps work pretty much in the same way, they have different wavelengths and intensities. While UV emits a broader spectrum of wavelengths, LED emits a narrower and more directed spectrum of wavelengths. Different makes of nail lamps will also differ in wavelength and intensity. Therefore it is vitally important to use the correct lamp that is designed for use with the brand and system it’s meant to be used with. Not using the correct lamp could lead to over curing or even under curing, resulting in all sorts of problems such as service breakdown and allergies. When nail companies recommend you buy their lamp with their system, it’s not just to make an extra buck; there are scientific reasons as to why they do.

Photo by nailknowledge.org

Too many nail professionals don’t realise that most of their service breakdown problems are probably due to improper curing. This can cause everything from cracking to breaking, shattering, lifting, pitting, discoloration, bubbles and onycholysis.

Controversy and confusion

Over the years there has been plenty of controversy and confusion about the use of UV and LED lamps, one in particular being whether any lamp can be used with any product, brand or system, and another about the safety of such lamps. Let’s look at the facts uncovered by some top experts in the industry who have explored and done in depth studies with regards to UV technology, as well as the concerns and issues surrounding it.

Firstly, let’s talk about whether all UV gel-curing lamps are created equal. I see this topic coming up on social media time and time again, with nail professionals asking: “I use brand A – which is the best lamp to use?” Well, the simple answer is: “The one which has been designed to use with the brand and system you are using”. It’s the same reason why you shouldn’t mix products and brands.

In the last NailFile article I mentioned Marian Newman and The Nail Knowledge learning site. In one of her very informative blogs, she provides some important, fact-based information about UV and LED technology, putting an end to all the confusion. Newman writes: “It is true that all LED lamps create UV light and will ‘harden’ UV curable products, but unless the LED lamp was specifically designed to properly cure that particular UV nail product, don’t expect to achieve a ‘proper cure’.

“There are three types of cure for UV nail coatings: under-cure, over-cure and most importantly, proper cure. The best way to ensure a proper cure is to consistently apply a thin layer of UV gel, then cure that layer for the correct length of time, using a nail lamp that emits the correct UV wavelengths needed to efficiently activate the photoinitiators in the UV gel. These wavelengths should neither be too high nor too low an intensity, as this could cause either

over-curing or under-curing. This is only part of what must be considered to ensure that a UV product cures properly.”

Newman also talks about how even the design of the nail lamp, as well as other factors, can all influence the curing process. Other factors include: the distance between the nail plates and the bulbs; the positioning of the bulbs and type of interior reflector material used; and the electronics inside the lamp. Electric components drive the bulbs to create UV and also influence UV intensity. Different lamps have different components. If the exact same UV bulbs are used in two different brands of UV nail lamp, the bulbs can produce widely different UV intensities.

Curing is also NOT all about the wattage; this is the ‘power consumption’ and not ‘UV output’. The most confusing of all is to believe that when UV products harden they are properly cured, but in many cases they are not. All UV nail coatings will harden when they cure more than 50%. But to obtain the best properties and to avoid causing skin sensitivities and to achieve proper cure, these coatings should cure at around 90%. There are many clients walking around with under cured enhancements, which are more prone to service breakdown and more likely to cause adverse skin reactions, especially for the nail technicians who are repeatedly exposed to partially cured UV gel dust and filings.

Too many nail professionals don’t realise that most of their service breakdown problems are probably due to improper curing. This can cause everything from cracking to breaking, shattering, lifting, pitting, discoloration, bubbles and onycholysis. I believe improper curing to be the leading cause of skin sensitivity, resulting in symptoms such as skin redness, itching, water blisters, etc. These are completely avoidable with the correct and proper use of UV light curing products and adhering to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Although UV and LED lamps work pretty much in the same way, they have different wavelengths and intensities. While UV emits a broader spectrum of wavelengths, LED emits a narrower and more directed spectrum of wavelengths.

Important pointers when purchasing and using UV or LED lamps

• Always purchase and use the lamp that is sold with the professional UV/LED gel system. • Change light bulbs in UV lamps as often as is required and recommended. • Never use other UV/LED gel systems with a lamp purchased along with other products and which are only meant to be used with those products. • If you have more than one UV/

LED gel brand – purchase the lamp which is specifically designed and meant for use with that brand and system • Always cure for the duration of time that is recommended by the manufacturer. • Never buy a cheaper lamp for use with your system. It will not have been scientifically tested for use with your chosen UV/

LED gel brand. • Always follow the manufacturer’s guidelines for correct and proper use.

For more information about this topic and Marian Newman’s full article, go to the site https:// nailknowledge.org/ and Doug Schoon’s Brain on FB and schoonscientific.com for in depth articles written by Doug Schoon.

For my part, I would like to say thank you to everyone for all your support towards our last NailFile article on misinformation and for sharing it on social media. It caught the attention of so many nail professionals out there and it was amazing to see the positive responses we got. This just goes to show how important it is to share and spread the correct information. So, let’s keep spreading the correct and proper information and put an end to misinformation.

Sonette van Rensburg

has been in the beauty industry for 30 years, and has worked with, and educated for, many top professional brands.