Promoting rural culture and tradition - Issue no. 1 - June 2009
In search of Romanian identity 3 Portraits of Viscri 4 The Junii Festival 7 Fish Food Heaven 17
Culture, Palinca and Illustrious Surprises:
A Journey to Discover Easter in MaramureĹ&#x; 10
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3 Editorial In Search of Romanian Identity Promoting rural culture and tradition
4 Romanian Village Portraits of Viscri: One Village, Three Experiences
7 Events The Triumph of Red, Yellow and Blue: Keeping Romanian Tradition Alive at the Junii Festival
10 Travel Journal Culture, Palinca and Illustrious Surprises: A Journey to Discover Easter in Maramures
14 Rural Development Bran’s Love - Hate Relationship: Struggling to Strike a Balance Between Tourism and Tradition
www.revista-satul.ro Tel.: 0040 729 905412
Manager: Ana A. Negru
Acting Editor: Paula Millar (Canada)
Contributors: Rosie Beaumont-Thomas (UK), Sarah Bottomley (UK), Wales Christian III (USA), Mikaela Shorter (Australia), Alexandra Szydlowska (UK)
Project Coordinator: Alexandra Ichim
DTP & graphic design:
16 Interview “For me, traditional food means the taste of childhood”, - Mr. Tudor Neculoiu, Manager ‘Sergiana’
Adrian Andrei
Photo cover: Ana A. Negru
Director Projects Abroad:
17 Traditional Food The Way to Romania’s Heart: Secrets Behind the Perfect Traditional Meal Fish Food Heaven: The ‘Dor de Peste’ Festival in Vadu Rosu
Mircea Samoilă
In Search of Romanian Identity by Paula Millar
s a Canadian, I know this quandary well. Canada is a country lacking a strong and defining identity. While Canadians may be proud of their country, the fact that they cannot tell you what defines them as Canadian – other than being “not American” – is problematic. When pressed on the issue Canadians predictably bat about topics of hockey, beer, or multiculturalism. However, such superficialities should not be good enough. National pride reflects the strength of a country’s identity. Furthermore, economic growth, social wellbeing, and a country’s international reputation all hinge on nationalism. Overall, deciphering one’s own identity is far easier said than done and far more crucial than most imagine. For the time being, I am no closer to discovering the real Romanian identity. What I can tell you, however, is that Romanian identity appears to be much more complex than a Canadian English-French clash of civilizations could ever be. Even with its mass multiculturalism thrown into the mix, Canada is no match for Romania. Regardless, something must be behind this modern identity crisis. Canada is only 142 years old; Romania has a much more complex history to contend with. In ancient times, it was the rein and secession of empires. After that, the modern ages brought the rise and fall communism. Traumatic experience has the potential to complicate identity. However, while this rocky historical record left the country soul searching, it is not our culprit. Nevertheless, the 1918 conception of a “Greater Romania” has never appeared more defunct. Today, it is impossible to ignore proof of a nation struggling to find a catch-all identity. Recent spats between Romanian and Moldovan government officials serve as only the most contemporary example. Diversity is unavoidable in Romania. It lies in the geographical regions, religious symbolism, and peoples. After witnessing such variety I wonder how it could ever be possible to pin what it is to be Romanian down to just one thing. Regardless, one problematic factor more pertinent than the rest remains – globalization. Unarguably, Western influence has drowned out much of Romanian identity; evidence of this is everywhere. Today urban Romanians may continue to cook traditionally, wear traditional dress, take their children to traditional dance lessons, and listen to traditional music. However, this cannot continue. This is because, contemporarily, many of the traditions are overlooked by younger generations. A generation embracing Western life, goals, and values is emerging. These young people are ignoring those traditions which have the potential to unite Romanians. A strong and united Romanian citizenry could demand a better quality of life, encourage foreign investment, bear the recession, and force out irresponsible government. The apathy of Canadians is concerning; nonetheless, I recognize Romania is in a much different position. In Canada the problem is a country trying desperately to mean everything to everyone, yet only succeeding in meaning nothing to anybody. Contrastingly, in Romania, the issue is a disengaged population. Young people need to understand that knowing who you are, is just as important as knowing who you stand with. In the end, standing together can mean everything.
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www.projects-abroad.org
Portraits of Viscri One village,
three experiences
The Road to Viscri by Alexandra Szydlowska ur journey begins in the medieval town of Brasov, very much a magnetic point within the Carpathians. Tourists looking to discover Saxon Transylvania are drawn to its picturesque historic centre, where a vibrant cosmopolitan life-style thrives within its 15th century walls. However, those looking to experience the warm heart of rural Romanian life must look further afield. It is the quest for the bucolic romanticism, that Romania is famed for, that brings The Village magazine to Viscri. The Saxon-built village of Viscri is located approximately 75 kilometres away from Brasov. The trek commences with an hour and a half’s journey north-west of the town via the E60 road to Sighisoara, and passing through Rupea, before taking a deviation at Bunesti in order to reach Viscri. Half the fun turns out to be in the getting there. The route winds alongside snow-capped mountain ranges, verdant pine forests, and rolling pastures where shepherds wearing peaked hats graze their flocks. As we near Viscri, the road gives way to a bumpy dirt-track which requires all of the driver’s skill to maneuver. Along these roads, where villagers travel via horse-drawn cart, it is unusual to meet another car. Indeed, approaching Viscri in a silver Skoda we invite a number of curious looks. Whilst playing host to one of the country’s finest UNESCOprotected Saxon fortified churches, the village inhabitants (of which there are approximately 400-500) are adamant that this route not be modernized. Thus, Viscri remains as it has been for centuries – untarnished and authentic. Viscri’s main avenue is a picture of unblemished beauty. The village is lined with brightly painted houses characterized by the green shutters and decorative folk motifs which adorn their facades.
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Whilst walking around we are greeted with the sounds and sights of the countryside; the clucking of poultry, the clatter of horse’s hooves on cobble stones and the huge stork’s nests which tops the roof of the post-office which is said to bring fortune to those who reside beneath it. Viscri’s well-kept beauty is greatly thanks to the work of the Eminescu Trust. The fund, founded by The Prince of Wales, works to conserve traditional architecture within rural Transylvania, as well as supports local trade and traditions. Villagers are proud of the ‘Sock Project’ which allows local women to manufacture hand-knitted slippers, socks and hats, which are then sold to tourists. The centuries-old Evangelical church (built originally by the Szekely before being taken by Saxons in 1185) is the village’s pride and glory. It is still used to this day by Viscri’s German, Hungarian, and Romanian inhabitants. Surrounded by a towering white fortress and guarded by heavy doors, it is an awe-inspiring sight. Inside, however, the atmosphere is much gentler. The church’s interior is a model of traditional craftwork and artistry. Its balcony is adorned with panels on which are painted delicate folk-style portraits of flowers, stars, and angels. The priority of most visitors is to climb the rickety bell-tower which appears perilous at first, but sports throat-catching views of the Romanian countryside. Another must-see is the church’s museum, once home to the village’s Evangelical school, which exhibits the history of Viscri’s social and cultural traditions. Wandering around the museum another world comes alive once again. A time when: the village’s four nachbarschalftsvater (‘fathers’) acted as guardians of their communities, and where news travelled from house-to-house via wood-carved signs which indicated death or reconciliation between neighbours. Taking into consideration the fast pace at which modernity evolves in the cities, it is not difficult to imagine why the inhabitants of Viscri are so eager to preserve the memory of their cultural legacy. For those who relish a dip into the past, Viscri is a treasure about to be discovered. www.revista-satul.ro
Resisting the Siege by Wales Christian III
ituated 82 kilometers away from Brasov, the village of Viscri lies tucked away in the open farmlands of Transylvania. Leaving the asphalt and concrete behind, travelers must cross seven kilometers of dirt roads, with only carts and horses for company, to reach it. In early spring, the village appears as an island out of the snow covered fields – where farmers and workers pass the cold days preparing for the coming warmer months. One long main street welcomes newcomers to a world that is set apart from the ever-growing Romanian tourism. At the pinnacle of the houses and stonewalls sits a walled church atop a hill. The church’s caretaker, an elderly woman looking to be in her mid 80’s, accompanies those wanting to visit while offering helpful insight into the long standing history of the structure. Following up the slope and steps to the inner gate, the wind sweeps up from the lower farmlands and sways tree branches overheard creating a whispering sanctity within the church’s fortified walls. The ancient inner defenses of stone and rock create a heavy barrier and visitors begin to bear in mind the actual age of the structure they are standing in. The first document to mention the village of Viscri was a church tax from circa 1400. The history of this hill being used as a church site began with the early inhabitants of the area, the Szeklers. They first built a church on the same site in 1100. The Saxon heritage of the church arrived in 1185 when they took over this area and fortifications around the church were constructed beginning in 1525.The population of the village slowly increased over centuries to create a modest, thriving population of 699 people of Saxon origin in 1939 and the village sustained itself with a heavy amount of German influence. The evidence of additions to the fortified church over the past 5 centuries shows through the layout of the site. The first inner wall is buffered by an outer constructed almost 300 years after the original. The defenses, used little during peacetime, were converted to classrooms and storage for grains and other food stores. Old farm tools mixed with remnants of a long rural tradition line the walls of these old food stores, and museums now take the place of centuries-
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THE VILLAGE - issue no. 1, june 2009
old classrooms. The church now keeps and protects the long-standing history that many seem to have forgotten in the urban areas of Romania. Neglect and beauty create a bittersweet moment for those standing before the altar. Old paintings line the walls and pews. Their faded colors still show of a time when vibrant blues and reds created backdrops for sweeping landscapes of the Romanian hills. Creaking floorboards squeak and squawk, sagging slightly with weary steps of those inside. Stepping through a door at the back of the sanctuary, steps carved in the stone lead up to the top of the central defense tower. Complete darkness gives way to scenes of renovation and work tools as an effort is made to keep the tower intact. The church seems at a crossroads as a balance is struck between antique and ruined. Nonetheless, this is all changing. As of late, an interest in the preservation of small villages like Viscri has been expressed. Foreign aide appears to be the main source of these funds. The Mihai Eminescu Trust (MET), a UK fund dedicated to projects of conservation and education in rural Romanian communities, arrived in early 2002. In Viscri, the MET has carried out repairs including projects completed on the priest’s house and a new house for the organ of the Saxon church. Caroline Fernolend, the mayor of Viscri, has shown herself to be very proactive in promoting tourism and visits in the village without ruining the traditions that have succeeded here for so long. With the help of MET, Fernolend has encouraged ten families to begin hosting tourists and other villagers provide tours or artisan workshops. Today the estimated attendance at the church is down to 25 villagers of German descent. Viscri is home to 425 German inhabitants – as many left following World War II. The remaining population, known as “Saşi,” still holds its heritage together to pass on and the fortified church is the greatest source for seeing its influence. Tourism means fresh blood flowing through and funds available for continued restoration – but can Viscri still keep its surroundings pure? To date, inhabitants still refuse to be connected by asphalt to the rest of the world. The horse-drawn carts and customs look to be taking the right steps in making a comeback, but with more and more exposure the cars other hassles will be ever-creeping closer to one of the last unspoiled treasures of Transylvania.
A Stitch in Time
by Rosie Beaumont-Thomas esides its impressive church, within the fortress walls sits a once evangelical school building. Contemporarily, the school houses relics of education on its ground floor. Such relics include original creations by the children, their schoolbooks, pictures of classes from the 1900s, and evidence of their traditions. Germanic influences are evident in both the structure of the building and the garments made by the children. However, massproduction nowadays would render the latter unnecessary and they would lose their charm. The sewing material upstairs demonstrates the pain-staking methods undertaken throughout the centuries to produce such beautiful results. In recent years, the village’s status as a World Heritage site awarded the schoolhouse funds for renovation into a museum. This is apparent in electric spotlighting and glass cabinets which so greatly contrast the rustic wooden beams and flooring. This lighting seems out of place, and while it is necessary to illuminate the dingy interior, it exploits the beauty of authenticity. The first floor is accessible by both a staircase inside and one on the exterior of the building. Stood in the centre of the room is a loom, in full working order, dating back to 1743. At once the eye is drawn to the loom. Upon a second look, there are many objects which give evidence for the efforts essential to the manufacturing of all fabric. Around the room are spinning wheels, yarn winders, and large whittles for the construction of garments. The fabric was itself the result of a lengthy process. After sowing, growing, and harvested flax, the crop was dried and bound. Once cleaned, the materials were sent to houses to be hung to dry and sorted into three piles for different purposes. Twenty strands made a bundle from which winding thread could be manufactured. Each stage of this process was as vital as its predecessor. The strenuous nature of the process exemplifies the assiduousness of the villagers in making their clothing. The curator of the fortress demonstrates the lengthy process that makes this original piece of complex machinery operational.
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Besides the threading of hundreds of strings of wool into the loom’s framework, each row of stitching necessitates a strip of fabric being woven through the many woollen threads. This step must take place before the entire structure is compressed with a swift crushing of a wooden palate against the construction below. This requires strength and diligence. Today there is only one woman remaining in this village, home to 467 residents, trained in the contraption’s complex method of weaving. This is a stark contrast to the earlier days of the loom. A time when most of the women in the village would both possess and use one for the purpose of trade and clothing for their families. Along the far wall lay tools welded by the village’s late blacksmith, Gabor Matei, (or ‘Maty’ to his many friends) who passed away November 11, 2008. Matei contributed not only his skills as a craftsman, but in his efforts with the preservation of his village in conjunction with the Mihai Eminescu Project. The village’s loss, along with the existence of only one inhabitant endowed with the skills to use a traditional loom, contributes to the sensation of a transitional period for Viscri. Today the village appears to be teetering between a period of unchanging ways of life and one of modernisation. The museum represents the integration of well-spent funding and a welcoming attitude of villagers accommodating the intentions of their trustees. Viscri will always retain pride in its customs, but its endowment has allowed it freedom to widen its doors to the outside world, even if only by a fraction.
The Triumph of Red, Yellow and Blue: Keeping Romanian Tradition Alive at the Junii Festival By Mikaela Shorter The Junii Pageant in Brasov takes place every year on the first Sunday after the Orthodox Easter. It is a colourful and fun event, and people from all across Romania travel to see it. During the parade, crowds cram the streets of Brasov. If you happen to be standing in the Council Square, it is almost impossible to see your feet. Everyone wants to see the proud men, dressed in exquisite costumes, riding on horseback through the town. he Junii’s traditions date back to over four hundred years ago. Originally, the Junii were young men from Schei, a traditional Romanian village outside of Brasov. Today, Schei is a district of Brasov, and many of the meanings behind the Junii celebration are lost. However, the pageant is still celebrated every year and many of the Junii’s other traditions are still followed.
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at least four other traditional meetings and celebrations kept throughout the year. However, the only time the Junii wear their traditional costumes are when a member of a group dies, or when the Junii Pageant is celebrated.
The Festivities Commence The parade begins in Unification Square, which is the historical centre of Schei. Men, dressed in traditional costumes, ride on horses through the town. The main part of the parade happens in the Council Square, where each group is presented to the crowd. At the head of each group rides the bailiff, and he is followed by a flag-bearer and two marshalls. The bailiff wears a red band on his chest and each of the marshalls wears either a blue band or a yellow band. Together, the three men wear the national colours of Romania – red, yellow and blue. The Junii then ride through the old gate, which used to separate Brasov from Schei, and continue out to Solomon’s Rocks. In the past, when Scheii Brasovului was occupied by AustroHungarians, Romanian merchants had to pay a fee every time they wanted to enter into the citadel to sell their products. According to Mugur Gheorghe, Bailiff of the Red Juni, the young people from Schei did not want to pay the fee. “Many of the Juni – the young men – were shot by the AustroHungarians who were guarding the gate, because they didn’t want to pay the fee,”Gheorghe said. “After many Juni were killed, the inhabitants of Scheii Brasovului revolted. They were helped by the Romanian Army of those times,” Gheorghe explained. “One day, the Bailiff was captured and slaughtered into many pieces, and then he was thrown over the walls. His family came and collected every piece of him so that they could bury him.” Since then, it has remained a tradition to have a symbolic burial once a year. When the Junii meet each other at a banquet, the manager, or Bailiff, of the group is tied up on a ladder. The members of the group act as priests, parish clerks, mourners, and everything needed for the traditional burying ritual. Although the meeting is about a burial, it is a fun event for all the Junii involved. This is just one of the traditions that is still continued today by the Juni. There are THE VILLAGE - issue no. 1, june 2009
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Understanding the Junii There are seven groups of Junii, and every man has to start as a member of the Young Junii. Each group was once divided by different criteria, some of which are still used today. Each group also has its own ranks, and everyone in the group is given the opportunity to rise through the ranks and eventually become the manager of the group. Each year a new manager is elected. This is because one’s rank only lasts for a year. After being a manager for one year, the member will become a normal June without ranks. If he wants to run for manager again, he will have to start at the lowest rank, and work his way back up. The traditional costumes differ between each of the seven groups: The Young Junii (younger, unmarried men) wear a long, knee-length white shirt, a traditional white top with long sleeves, a black jacket with silver and gold buttons, white trousers, black leather boots, and a black, velvet hat, which has a ribbon in the colours of the national flag. The Old Junii (slightly older, young, married men) have the same costume as the Young Junii, but their hats do not have ribbons. The Turkey Junii (married men) also have the same costume as the Young Junii, but their hats are black, and are made out of fur. Their hats also have a feather attached.The Dorobanti Junii (soldiers) have the same costume as the Turkeys, but their hats are grey instead of black.The Junii of the Old City (older men) have the same costume as the Young Junii, but their hats are plain with a pointy top, and no ribbon. The Red Junii (horsemen) look very different than the other Junii. Their shirts are sewn with golden sequins and motives representing the leaves of grapes. The colours on the shirt are gold, yellow, red and black. Like the other Juni, they wear the traditional trousers and leather boots. Their caps have a red tuft. The White Junii have similar costumes to the Red Junii, but their shirts are different in colour. The biggest difference though, is that their hats are made of white fur. Until one-hundred years ago, the Red and White Junii were a single group. Some of the costumes worn today are over one-hundred-and-fifty-years-old. One of them weighs almost ten kilograms. Many are passed down through generations, from fathers to sons. Some costumes are made today, but with the same traditional materials used in the older costumes. Many of the men’s horses are decorated with colourful pompoms, in the national colours of Romania. In the past, it was against the law to wear a Romanian flag, so the Junii used to come up with creative ways to wear the national colours legally. Also, many of the horses used had never been in a parade before, and for some of the Junii, it was the first time they’d ridden a horse. Often during the parade, a horse would wander too closely to the crowd, and everyone would rush backwards. A few times some horses started running, instead of trotting nicely, and many of them were agitated by the crowd of people. Mr Bidet Vasile, the president of the Red Junii, said that every year the horses are brought from villages around Brasov, such as Harman, Stupini and Rasnov. “We are a little afraid, because we don’t know the horses at all…but even so, by the end of the event, we still manage to become friends!” This was definitely different than any parades I have been to. Where, for the most part, the horses are very well trained. The riders would not dream of using an unfamiliar or inexperienced horse, especially when riding so closely to an unrestrained crowd. But still, the possibility of the horses going berserk did add to the excitement of the crowd. The colourful costumes and decorated horses brightened the city, and created a great atmosphere. I was surprised when the huge crowd followed the riders to Solomon’s Rocks. You could be for given for thinking that the whole of Brasov had decided to walk to 8
the mountains behind the Junii. When I arrived there, it was easy to understand why. Once at Solomon’s Rocks, the Junii split off into their separate groups, and made their own camps. At each camp, the men danced the hora, which is a traditional Romanian dance where the men stand in a circle. In order of their rank, the men took turns going into the centre of the circle to throw a baton. It’s a show of strength and virility, and in the past the man who threw the baton the highest won. The crowd stood around the circles of Junii, clapping and cheering. Even if the men dropped the baton, the crowd was encouraging. The Junii call the baton a ‘mace,’ because in the past an actual mace was thrown. I heard there would be a mace thrown that day, but quickly realized that the batons were just used to represent the mace. Soon after this, the crowd is invited to join in the dancing. The Junii then have a feast with their families. There are food stalls set up for everyone else, to buy beer, barbequed meat, and pastries. The smell coming from the barbeques wafted up the mountains, and made everyone else hungry. The setting is perfect – huge mountains, the dark green forest, and the massive rocks from the legend of Solomon. The Junii camps are set up on different landings on the hills. A stream runs between two hills, and people sit on either side, cooking traditional Romanian sausages. The scene reminds me of films like Lord of the Rings. It was just what I’d imagined a medieval festival to look like, only in a much more beautiful place and with more colourful costumes.
In Reflection It is a credit to the Junii, that despite the joining of Schei with Brasov, this traditional festival has been preserved. When a community has so much history, it is important to remember the traditions and culture of the past. As a foreigner from a country www.revista-satul.ro
with barely more than two-hundred years of history, I think national history and traditions should be valued. As Romania is inundated with more and more Western influence, the traditions of the villages are at risk of being lost. It is encouraging to see that so many Romanians enjoy the Junii Festival, and seem to love their culture and their traditions – especially the dancing and the clothes. There were many things to do and see in Brasov over the whole weekend, and the Junii Pageant was the climax. However, the Days of Brasov festival began on Friday, April 24, and continued right up until Sunday night. Over these few days there were many concerts, dances, exhibitions, and stalls. In front of the main park, over fifty craftsmen’s stalls were set up – to sell handmade items. The things being sold ranged from carved, wooden spoons, and beaded jewelry, to painted pottery and traditional clothes. An artist, selling his paintings at one of the many stalls that weekend, described how his paintings represented a small village – Bălai, from Iasi District, far away from Brasov. In many of his paintings, the village was represented as the whole Earth. It was interesting, because for him, and the others who lived there, the village was their whole life. It was their whole world. It is easy to see how people can become passionate about their birthplace, traditions, and customs. In comparison, the culture in a small village is very different than that of a city like Brasov. Brasov has moved on from its traditional past, nonetheless, there are people here who still keep the traditions. The Junii may only dress up and parade through the town once a year. However, at least on that one day, people are reminded of the history of Brasov and how citizens used to live. The festival ended that night with traditional dancing and singing in the Council Square. It was an enjoyable end to a great weekend of culture. There is little doubt that many of the people who travelled to Brasov for the weekend will return again next year, to see the Junii again, and to return to the medieval party at Solomon’s Rocks. How could they possibly resist? THE VILLAGE - issue no. 1, june 2009
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Culture, Palinca & Illustrious Surprises A Journey to Discover
Easter in Maramures by Mikaela Shorter
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After waking up at 4am and surviving a long, but pleasant, drive to Maramures, I arrived in the village of Barsana. The scenery, a collection of mountains and rolling green hills, was a perfect introduction to the region. Immediately I noticed differences not only between Maramures and Australia, but with other parts of Romania too. Upon arrival at where I would be staying for the weekend, I was quickly greeted by my host. Irina appeared old, but that may have been from the clothes she was wearing or from years of working on the land. Like every other woman I saw from the car, she wore a colourful head scarf. She could not understand a word I said, and without my Romanian friend, I could not `understand a word she said, but that did not stop her from being extremely friendly and hospitable. A single step inside the front door revealed a bright array of colours. Hanging from the walls were cloths with woven flowers of bright and colourful wool. Even the blankets in the bedrooms were made by our host. Such a colourful place can only be welcoming. Traditional costumes hung on a wall, and Irina told us she would wear traditional clothes for us later. After all, Easter is a very big event here in Romania and you have to dress up for the occasion. After the long trip, the traditional food offered to us for lunch was more than welcomed. I have grown wary of Romania’s national drink, palinca, so I politely declined when Irina offered me some before lunch. However, her look of shock quickly changed my mind and I found myself accepting a shot glass. Irina proceeded to offer palinca every meal from then on, including breakfast. After filling up on delicious homemade cozonac, we decided to go for a walk through the village. www.revista-satul.ro
Close Encounters
Protective Imagery
One of the many things I noticed about Barsana village was the curiosity and friendliness of the locals. Old women wearing long skirts, a warm top, and a colourful head scarf, bent over from years of hard work, would cross the street to say hello. They all wanted to know where we were from, who we were staying with, and how much we were paying to stay there. Then, once satisfied, they’d tell us everything they could about themselves, their husbands, and their children. After knowing one lady for not even five minutes, I knew all about her children – their ages, where they lived, if they were married, if they visited much, and where they worked. The openness of strangers really surprised me. Such behaviour is not something that you commonly encounter in my own country. Not after knowing someone for such a small amount of time, anyway. Throughout the village I saw many things that I would never get the chance to see at home: horse drawn carts carrying as much hay as possible, traditional wooden houses built on top of layers of stones, old men and women getting water from the wells in their gardens, and the wooden gates used to protect and bless the families living behind them. I was lucky enough to meet Mr. Barsan, who has been making wooden gates (and other things) since he was sixteen. Barsan was very proud of his work, and loved being able to show it off. One thing I loved in Maramures was how everyone was so devoted to their work and very proud of it too. Irina loved to tell us about all of her woven things; Barsan loved his wooden creations. A man I met loved his horses and piglets; one old lady was very proud of her gardens and crops. The people worked with passion and devotion – it was their lives.
In a village of such friendly, open, devoted people, the symbolism used on the wooden gates seemed a little unnecessary. The gates were used to protect the houses and families behind them. Each symbol had its own meaning:
THE VILLAGE - issue no. 1, june 2009
• Wolves teeth: protects the house and family from negative influences in society. • Rozeta: represents the sun. This is important because the communities in these villages rely heavily on the sun for their agriculture. Overall, the sun is crucial to their livelihood. • Crosses in a circle: represent the family’s good and strong faith in God. • Rope: unites the people in the house. It represents strong relationships and marriage, and adds strength to these relationships. • Chain: also represents united people and marriage. • Fish: inspires people to be pure and honest. These gates were beautiful, and some of them were very old. In the village, it was easy to see the different social classes, in terms of wealth, based on how intricate the designs were. It made me wonder if there was something I was missing about this village. Why did they need to stop negative influences from society getting inside their homes? What negative influences? Later that day I arrived at Barsana Monastery, located on the other side of the village. Immediately, I fell in love. The complex was so beautiful. The green hills, colourful tulips, and unique buildings made me feel as if I was in a secret sanctuary. Nuns, dressed completely in black, hurried around preparing for the Easter service that would take place later that night. 11
A Romanian Easter I returned there again at midnight, along with hundreds of other people. The scene around me was unlike anything I have ever experienced before. Nuns and priests stood in the centre of the complex, singing songs in another language. Their voices rang out through the sea of people, who each had their own candle, and huddled together to keep warm. There were people of all ages, from young children to old men and women. Two teenagers stood near me, and it occurred to me that religion is incredibly respected here in Romania. It was not just old people going to the service, everyone wanted to be there. The blend of candles and singing, and stars shining brightly above, filled the air with a sense of peace. By the end of the service, after everyone’s baskets of food had been blessed by the priest, the people were all keen to go home and get out of the cold. This was the beginning of my Romanian Easter, and it was already completely different to any Easter I have experienced. Unfortunately, I did not wake up to find that chocolate eggs had been left for me by a certain white rabbit. Chocolate eggs are one thing Australia does well at Easter. In the supermarkets, you can find aisles and aisles of different types of chocolate eggs and bunnies. I love the chocolate at Easter, but it was also nice to be away from the commercialization of religious celebrations. In Romania, and in this small village of Barsana, people celebrate the ‘true’ meaning of Easter. For them, it is the only meaning. So no chocolate for me, but at breakfast I did get the opportunity to have some traditional Romanian eggs. This led to my participation in another custom: cracking Easter eggs. Of course, real eggs are used. One person would say, in Romanian, “Christ has risen,” and the other would respond, “Yes, this is true”. 12
Then the top of the eggs are banged against each other, and one cracks. This was used to symbolize Christ’s sacrifices. The oldest male member of the family would crack the egg first, and whoever had the egg which cracked would supposedly be the first to die. However, this was not necessarily a bad thing. This is because it also meant that the two would meet each other in the ‘afterlife,’ just as Jesus had risen from the dead. After breakfast I travelled to the village of Sapanta, to visit the famous Merry Cemetery. It is completely unique, and it is impossible to go there and not be moved in some way (unless if you do not speak Romanian and do not have a translator with you. Nonetheless, the pictures still tell some of each story). The crosses above each grave were colourfully decorated, and there was a painted picture and small passage which described something about the person – their life, job, or how they died. Some made me laugh, and others almost made me cry. Again, there was a sense of pride in occupations here, as many of these people’s last statement of who they were, was “I was a farmer”, “I was a tractor driver”, “I knitted cloths”, or “I was a teacher”. In the Merry Cemetery, is impossible to ignore the presence of those who have passed. In most cases it may be easy to pass a graveyard or a cross on the side of the road and give it little or no thought, however, you cannot do that here. The stories about the three-year-old drowning, or the school boy being hit by a car are hard to ignore. It may have been a slightly morbid start to the day, but it also left us with hope – knowing the gift that came from Christ’s sacrifice and resurrection. This type of cemetery also gives us hope that our time on Earth will not be forgotten so quickly. There is comfort in the idea that for generations to come, people will know we were here too. After visiting the cemetery, I travelled to the rural village of Breb. Breb is surrounded by beautiful green hills, and is not far www.revista-satul.ro
from Barsana. In Breb: almost all the houses are built traditionally, people live off the land, and it is unusual to see a car driving on the unpaved roads. We stopped on a winding road to get a good view of the village before entering it. A woman sat silently on the hill, with her grazing sheep, and told us she would continue to sit there for a few more hours. She pointed out the tall church, where everyone would be attending a service. We arrived at the church at the same time as the locals. Every person was wearing traditional clothing. The women wore colourful skirts, white blouses, black woolen vests, and matching colourful scarves. The men were dressed in black pants, white shirts, and black woolen jackets. Outside the church, the streets were deserted; everyone was at church. Besides our own voices, the only noise around us came from the proud crowing of the village’s many roosters. It was such a peaceful place, and I understood how the villagers could be content sitting with sheep on a hill for hours. The grass seemed very inviting in the warm sunlight of the day. A few houses in Breb had wooden gates like the ones in Barsana. The houses were wooden and their age was starting to show. Farming tools hung on the sides of houses, and colourful woven cloths could be seen hanging from verandahs. It was quite a surprise to see that many of these traditional homes had big, white satellite dishes attached to them. The technology did not belong here. It was as if within this rural village, two different worlds were beginning to collide. A collision of: old versus new, traditional versus contemporary, and rural versus metropolitan.
The Royal Treatment
interior of Romanian churches. Here, the walls and ceilings are covered with hand-drawn paintings of saints, angels, the Holy Trinity, and scenes from bible stories. Often in the main area of the church, there will be a big painting of Jesus, and he overlooks the people below him. In this Catholic Church, the wall opposite the main entrance was covered in gold, with small portraits of biblical figures. An old lady noticed me taking photographs, and gestured for me to follow her. She led me quietly up a spiral staircase at the back of the church. Here men wearing their woolen vests sat on long benches covered in thick, white, woolen blankets. The lady who had brought me here whispered to me. Unfortunately, I did not understand a word she was saying. In any case, she did not seem to notice. Often people here did not mind that I could not understand a word they were saying. It never stopped them from wanting to tell me all about their lives. When I left the Catholic Church, there was one more stop to make before leaving the village for good. It was Barsana Monastery. We were going to stay only for a few minutes, to see more people in their traditional costumes, but it did not turn out that way. As I had grown accustomed to, the nuns and priests stood in the centre singing. The sun shone brightly in the sky, and warmed the area where we stood. Some people sang along, but many just watched and listened. I found a spot on the grass, and sat down to enjoy the atmosphere for the last time. We stayed for hours. I almost fell asleep, because it was so peaceful and relaxing. This would be my last memory of Maramures and its villages. It was a beautiful and interesting place, completely unlike anything I could ever find in my own country. I hope to return. It was a big weekend, but one that I will treasure for the rest of my life.
We met a lady who invited us into her home. Within minutes I was sitting on a bed, eating cake, and hearing about the woman’s children. Soon she told us that her husband recently passed away, and it was hard work without him. Tears began to flow, but then she mentioned that Prince Charles from England would come back soon to help her. Yes, you read that correctly. I learnt that Prince Charles had visited a few rural villages in Romania, and was working with an organization to help preserve the villages and their traditions. The Prince had bought land here and put two traditional houses on them, which were brought from other villages close to Breb. This woman and her husband were employed to look after the gardens and the two houses. She had even cooked him dinner in her house. Of course, the last thing I was expecting to hear in a completely rural village in the middle of Romania was that Prince Charles had sat on the same bed I was now sitting on. This was definitely a memorable Easter after all. A group of curious locals, sitting at their gate and watching passers-by, told us that in Breb, people would ‘rest’ for the whole week after Easter Sunday. It was hard to imagine what you could do for a week in Breb. At the same time, however, I knew these people would rest to the best of their ability, and be more than happy doing it. I was a little sad to leave Breb, but the promise of more traditional Romanian food was too enticing to miss. The following day was Easter Monday. That morning, I visited a Catholic Church in Barsana. Again priests were singing and women, either standing or kneeling, were praying or singing too. In Australia, I have never been to a church that does not have chairs where everybody sits during a service. I have yet to see this in Ro mania. Another difference is the decoration inside of the churches. At home, the main type of decoration used is the stained glass window. These are beautiful, but they don’t even compare to the THE VILLAGE - issue no. 1, june 2009
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Bran’s Love - Hate Relationship Struggling to strike a balance between tourism and tradition by Paula Millar
istory, myth, and frankly a whole lot of luck are reasons a small Transylvanian township is home to one of the most popular tourist attractions in Romania. Bram Stoker, the author of “Dracula”, is the one responsible. His 1897 best-seller featured a fictional Count Dracula who called a dreary castle, in the Carpathian Mountains of Transylvania, home. The Transylvanian-born Prince Vlad III Dracula of Wallachia, infamously know as Vlad the Impaler, is widely believed to have been Stoker’s inspiration. The historical accuracy is questionable to say the least, and many locals dismiss the legend as “Western myth.” Bran Castle was never the dwelling of a vampire, in reality it was a residence Romanian royalty called home. Nevertheless, foreign tourists flock to the region each year. While the locals would like to think otherwise, the reason has everything to do with the legend of Count Dracula.
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ancient architecture. At the same time, real estate deals threaten the untouched Transylvanian countryside. Beyond the Hollywood-hyped Dracula legend and worldwide known Bran Castle, Bran certainly has more to offer tourists than a castle tour. The real Bran has nothing to do with Dracula, Bran Castle, or any horror film. You just have to search a little deeper.
The ‘Real’ Bran Experience Mr. Gheorghe Hermeneanu, the mayor of Bran Township, offered many ideas for travelers interested in finding what the ‘real’ Bran has to offer.
A Luc r a ti v e P re d i c a m e n t Year after year nearly half a million tourists descend on the township of Bran. It is no exaggeration to say that the town has grown into an over-commercialized tourist hotspot. Whether one looks to the street stalls adorned with vampire paraphernalia or shop keepers wielding Dracula souvenirs; this feeling is undeniable. In town, Dracula-themed stores and a horror movie theatre line the streets. Even the township’s hotels and guesthouses are no accident. While tourists may stay because of the breathtaking landscape, they come to the region because of the main attraction. The attraction is Bran Castle, better known as Dracula’s Castle. The fact that the town is a tourism centre is not the problematic issue. The problem lies in the obvious exploitation of Dracula’s Castle. Upon further investigation, a cyclical reality becomes clear. The township and residents reap great economic benefit from tourism-heavy Bran. In fact, many reports reveal the ultimate goal is to turn Bran into a modern tourist resort. However, while the commercial explosion means financial gains, the ongoing gross commercialization is potentially damaging. Traditions, landscape, and the authenticity of the town are at stake. Foreign interest has the potential to spoil traditions and customs, and forever alter lifestyles. Modern building development could damage the town’s existing 14
“I recommend Bran to tourists not only for the famous castle, but primarily for the landscape, special opportunities for hiking, and the local hospitality,” said Mr. Hermeneanu. The scenery in Bran is unique. Set in the Carpathian Mountains of Transylvania, the rolling hills and snow-capped mountain ranges are particularly captivating. The Township boasts scenic walking paths and hiking trails for visitors to explore. Mr. Hermeneanu believes one of the Township’s best assets is “the climate of Bran – which has been proven to be very beneficial for health.” He explained that “for this reason, the place has a resort atmosphere. People simply have a good feeling here.” As for accommodations in Bran, the prospects are plentiful. www.revista-satul.ro
Hotels are always a viable option; however, a more enriching opportunity awaits the adventurous. Just as the mayor said, the people of Bran are incredibly hospitable. In fact, most villagers have guest houses or rooms for tourists to stay the night in. For those looking to truly experience Bran, staying a night in a villager’s home will help the willing delve into what life in Bran is all about. An extended stay in Bran will surely expose the Township’s specialty, cheese. Bran is famous for its cheese. In fact, the township is famous for two different cheeses that are only made in Bran. “We can take pride in the first place with traditional products from processing milk - cheese in pine bark and cheese bellows” said Mr. Hermeneanu. “Every year, we organize a big celebration – "Returning the sheeps", which is ever-growing in popularity and word of mouth.” Year after year, according to Mr. Hermeneanu, “visitors from all areas come to purchase their famous cheese bellows.”
Reaction from Town Hall Bran’s town hall sits just footsteps from the Bran Castle gates. Everyday, Mayor Gheorghe Hermeneanu sees the effects over-commercialization has on Bran first hand. Mr. Hermeneanu assured the municipality was doing everything it could to ensure the richness of Bran is not spoiled. Hermeneanu said, we are protecting Bran “through events, festivals, exhibitions and competitions that [town hall] organizing together with our partners to promote the area, customs, folklore and traditional products.” In addition, Mr. Hermeneanu explained the town “organized summer schools. Students are invited from the faculty of architecture, directors of museums in the country, and other personalities to discuss how to best preserve traditions in Bran.” Furthermore, Mr. Hermeneanu stated, “the institution of the Township is working closely with two Non-Governmental Organizations (NGO) - ANTREC and PRO-BRAN. The organizations promote the Bran area, specific culture and traditions. They are also working to ensemble "Dorului Gate" which has the main purpose of collecting folk songs and customs of Bran, in order to ensure continuity of area traditions.” ANTREC (The National Association of Rural, Ecological and Cultural Tourism in Romania) calls itself a non-governmental, apolitical, non-profit organization. The organization is also a member of a Europe-wide group. A second NGO, PRO-BRAN, calls Bran’s destiny “fascinating.” PRO-BRAN elaborates further, “the presence of Bran as a distinct entity on the world tourism map has been generated not only by the beauty of its landscapes and celebrity castle in the Carpathians, but also the hospitality industry and its inhabitants.”
A Change of Heart Ownership of Bran Castle recently changed. The official inauguration ceremony will take place June 1, 2009. The castle was returned to Dominic Habsburg, whose family had been thrown out of the residence following World War Two. While initially hoping to sell the estate, the new owners have had a change of heart. According to BBC, the residence was listed for sale for some time; the property was expected to go for an estimated 135 million USD. The family assured the castle would only be sold to an individual "who will treat the property and its history with appropriate respect." The new privately-run Bran Castle will remain as a museum and monument preserving the legend and ‘history’ of Dracula. THE VILLAGE - issue no. 1, june 2009
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Who are Sergiana’s target clientele? We target people with medium and high incomes, because our products are not the cheapest. Our clients are mainly middle-aged people, who take time to buy products from a specialised shop every week. The clients in our restaurants love traditional foods and are of all ages. Why did you choose to open a traditional food restaurant? Romanians love to eat traditional food and like to see products being cooked or grilled in front of them. Another reason was because our foods are made out of products from personal farms ensuring we give customers the highest quality. Do you use natural ingredients in all of your products?
“For me, traditional food means the taste of childhood” an interview with the Manager of traditional Romanian restaurant Sergiana, Mr. Tudor Neculoiu When was the Sergiana Company founded? We commenced on 18th August, 1992, with the production of wood baked bread, however our main work with fresh meats did not begin until 29th December, 1994. Were you the manager of the Sergiana restaurant from its opening? Yes, I was the manager and have continued to be until today. In a few years, I hope that my daughter, who is 21 and an executive director, is completely ready to take over the company. Does Sergiana represent the same aims it had upon the opening of the restaurant? Yes, for example, in the meat production, we tried to preserve the old recipes from before 1989, which are today produced through modern technology. The raw materials come from our own farms which is why the taste of the meat is so special. We have 33,000 pigs, all fed with Romanian cereals giving the meat a much higher quality from the begining. The products in our restaurant are made from fresh meat and moreover, we have some products which can only be made from the meat in our own farms, because if not, the taste is drastically changed. 16
We use very few ready made ingredients. In our restaurants we do not use any sauce that has been bought in. We do not use ketchup; the tomato sauce is made in our restaurant’s kitchen. The meat comes from our personal farms as well as the meat products. In order to better explain this, the pig is living today, killed tomorrow and gets to the restaurant the day after. We control everything from the day the animal is killed to the moment it reaches to the customer. What is your favourite Romanian food? I don’t have a favourite one, but I love all traditional food. In my home everyone has cooked traditionally all of my life. I grew up with one dish in particular which sticks in my mind; smoked bone sour soup with tarragon. What traditional food or beverage would you recommend? I would have to firstly recommend a very traditional Romanian drink called Tuica, which is a plum brandy. I would not recommend any beer but instead the Romanian wine, Feteasca Neagra. With regard to food I would recommend a platter of traditional meat products to start with. The platter consists of products such as slanina (pork crackling), caltabosi (a type of sausage), toba (like salami meat) and cas afumat (smoked cheese). Next I would recommend a smoked meat soup with tarragon or bean soup with Romanian red onion. For the main course I would recommend smoked pork ribs with a pickled mushroom salad, and for dessert, a cheese or apple pie, which is freshly made in the restaurant. Do you think fast food is a threat to traditional Romanian food? Fast food is definitely not a threat to our restaurant because the niche they cater for is so much different to ours. However they are a great threat to our nation’s health. People who eat in restaurants allocate themselves a certain amount of time, it is a different concept. Fast food eaters simply want to satisfy an immediate need or have no time to sit and enjoy a meal. Finally, what does traditional food mean to you? For me traditional food means the taste of the childhood, that we used to have in my grandparents house. by Sarah Bottomley www.revista-satul.ro
The way to Romania’s heart… Secrets Behind the Perfect Traditional Meal by Sarah Bottomley tepping off the plane, having just landed in the beautifully sunny Romania, all I could think about was how different this was going to be from my home in England. Eager to try new foods and embrace the culture completely, I readied myself for the pickled vegetables and meat mush I had read so much about. Driving towards the city of Brasov the impressive mountains that laced the Romanian landscape became another, on a long list, of reasons to visit this breathtaking country. However, upon entering Brasov, it took a lot of work to find a place to eat that does not include fries and a drink. These are the places that stand out first to everyone, especially tourists, thanks to the bright signs that overtake the authentic beauty of the city. Eager to try traditional food, rather than that which Western countries have become accustomed to, the search began. This was a difficult task indeed. Strolling through Brasov I passed Italian, Chinese, and even an Irish bar offering full English breakfasts – where was the Romanian cuisine I had come to experience? After further investigation came success. The Sergiana restaurant sat quite obviously on a main road, but had been so easy to miss. Upon entering the restaurant visitors are greeted by waiting staff in traditional dress making the whole experience feel very authentic. As you are led down the stairs to the main restaurant, where you walk through brick worked tunnels, the whole place has an overwhelming homey feeling. Waiting so long for such a restaurant gave me a chance to further investigate what Romania had to offer in terms of truly traditional cuisine. One of the most heard of dishes is Sarmale. Traditionally served only at Christmas this dish offers, quite simply, minced meat wrapped in cabbage leaves. These cabbage rolls, best served with polenta and sour cream, offer a taste that cannot possibly be imagined. Having spoken to some local Romanian women, it is clear that this dish is much loved by many.
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Rodica Ichim, 55, retired, spoke passionately about her love for traditional food, especially these cabbage rolls. Each day every person in Rodica’s home eats traditional, homemade food. “Everyone comes to eat at my house. We have at least two extra people at the table everyday”. It is said Rodica is a woman who puts her soul into her food. She is so very passionate about this traditional cuisine and cooks with happiness and joy.
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“It is so easy to find ingredients to make these dishes but only in Romania. I have tried to cook whilst abroad and nothing tastes the same. I have to say my favorite meal has to be noodles with cabbage, which is very traditional in Transylvania”. Rodica not only cooks traditional foods, but does all this from scratch, right down to the noodles she so enjoys with cabbage. “The only way to keep traditional food alive in Romania is by passing the recipes and passion from mother to daughter. Less and less young women cook traditional foods and because of this tradition will fade if not passed from generation to generation”. Rodica explains, however, that the best way for tourists to experience this traditional cuisine is through restaurants like Sergiana and the Transylvania Restaurant. Nonetheless, it must be stressed that these places cannot compare to home cooking, especially Rodica’s. Manuela Burgan, 46, internet café owner, told me how she cooks traditional food all the time. “My favourite foods have got to be Piftia, which is a type of meat jelly, and meatball soup. I couldn’t imagine a Christmas without it.” Manuela said she feels many visitors do not know Romanian foods and do not have the courage to try them. “Despite this, fast food restaurants are no threat to our traditional foods. Ours are much tastier and cheaper to make and buy. The best place for visitors to experience traditional Romanian cuisine is the Transylvania Restaurant. Places like this are probably the best way of keeping tradition alive in Romania.” If asked to recommend just one Romanian dish, it would have to be sarmale. The amazing variation of flavours blew me away. However, it is very difficult to limit yourself to just one of the fantastic dishes Romania’s traditions have to offer. My advice is to try as much as possible while this marvelous tradition lives on; I am sure you will not be disappointed.
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Cabbage rolls / Sarmale
You will need: 1 qt. Water, 1-2 cups corn meal, 2 tsp. salt Optionaly: garlic and parsley leaves 1. Boil water and salt in a pot. When water is boiling, gradually add corn meal while stirring the mixture with a whisk. 2. Stop adding corn meal when the mixture is considerably thick, though still liquid. 3. Continue to simmer for about 10-15 minutes, with caution since the mixture bubbles up and splatters hot polenta around. 4. Remove from the heat and serve with your favorite dish.
Meatball sour soup / Ciorba de perisoare You will need: 1 large soured cabbage or one large cabbage and sour kraut*, 1 3/4 lb/750 g ground meat (mixture of pork and beef is recommended), 4 large onions, 2 tablespoons rice, 3 tablespoons lard, 5-6 tomatoes or 1 tablespoon tomato sauce, Salt and pepper, 1 qt/1 l sour cream 1. Grind the meat with a raw onion. 2. Place in a bowl and mix with rice, pepper, salt and finely chopped onion slightly fried in two tablespoons of lard. Mix everything well. 3. Core the cabbage with a sharp thin knife. Carefully remove the cabbage leaves, one by one, so that they do not tear. Cut larger leaves in 2 or 3 and then place a little meat in each cabbage piece and roll in. The smaller the rolls are, the tastier they are. 4. Place a layer of rolls in the pan (take a deep one), then cover with a layer of chopped (julienned) cabbage, then a layer of thinly sliced tomatoes. Do this layering until all the rolls are made. The last layer must be tomato slices or add tomato sauce. 5. Add a heaping tablespoon of lard, pour the borsh and let simmer on top of the range for 30 minutes. Then place in the oven so that the liquid is reduced. Serve with sour cream. * When soured cabbage is not available, use cabbage leaves scalded in water and sour kraut instead of chopped (julienned) cabbage.
Romanian Style Polenta / Mămăligă
You will need: Borsch: 1 medium onion, cut in thin strips, 2 medium carrots, chopped finely, 1 handful of rice (about 1/2 cup), 2 Tbsp oil, for sautéing, 1-2 Liters water, tomato juice (or sauce, depending on desired consistency), about 2 cups or to taste, Romanian (or Polish) "bors" (or lemon juice) to taste Meatballs: 1/2 Kg ground meat, 1 handful rice, 1 egg, 1 slice of bread (without the crust), soaked in water and welldrained, chopped onion and parsley, salt, pepper to taste. 1. To make the meatballs, mix together all the ingredients. 2. Then take a little of this mixture at a time in slightly damp hands (so as not to be sticky) and make walnut-sized little balls. 3. For the broth, sautee the onion slightly, then add the carrots and the rice, and leave for 5 minutes. 4. Add the water and leave to boil for 15 minutes, then add the meatballs. Boil several times and towards the end add the tomato juice or sauce and the "bors" (the "bors" is not supposed to boil more than a couple of times). 5. Make sure that the meatballs are cooked through, top with more fresh chopped parsley and serve with good bread.
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Fish Food Heaven The ‘Dor de peste’ Festival in Vadu Rosu by Sarah Bottomley & Paula Millar
Just forty minutes beyond Brasov city limits, nestled amongst the rolling hills of the Transylvanian countryside, lay a certain unexpected restaurant. While chance may be the reason for many visitors’ encounter with the location, the locals know it well. Upon further perusing, the tourist quickly discovers the restaurant’s positioning is really no coincidence at all. urrounded by the Vadu Rosu lakes, which hold the largest number of carp in Romania, Doripesco is perfectly placed to offer fish lovers the freshest catch. Once a year, Doripesco hosts the largest fish festival in Brasov. The latest edition of “Festivalul Dor de Peste” took place on Sunday, May 10. In its second year, the festival featured contests for both the catching and cooking of fish. Nine teams competed for various awards ranging from the largest cumulative catch of the day to the most creative dish. Commencing in the early morning, the fishing competition continued throughout the day. Fishermen competed to catch the most fish between 7am and 2pm. In addition to catching the most
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THE VILLAGE - issue no. 1, june 2009
fish, contestants also had the chance to take away the award for the largest fish caught that day. The fishing competition was already well underway when the main event started. For the main event, chefs and amateur cooks alike were allotted only three hours for the creation of various dishes. All contestants had to create a starter and main course paired with a suitable wine. The only stipulation, every dish must include fish. Each team created unique and colourful cuisine that, once judged, visitors would have the chance to taste. Overall, evidence of a distinctive personal touch proved to be the day’s winning ingredient. The winner of the day was team Hanul Dambu Morii from the Dambu Morii Inn. The group impressed the judges with their combination of fish bortsch, barbequed carp, and maize mixed with garlic and parsley. While falling short of first prize, the judges recognized team Revista lu’ Peste had something special. The team, also a local fish magazine, was awarded the prize for the best harmony between wine and fish. It was this unique collaboration which set them apart from their competitors. In addition, Revista lu’ Peste took home the prize for the heaviest single catch of the day – an impressive seven kilos. The inventive dishes and colourful creations stole the show. Regardless, year after year, it will be the warm-hearted and welcoming nature of all participants that will keep bringing visitors back for more. All in all, who could possibly turn down a day of glorious sun combined with free food and wine tasting? 19
The prizes of the festival: 9th place – Diana Guest-house 8th place – MBM Distribution They also won The Special Prize for Fairplay, which consists in fishing anytime on a special lake from Vadu Rosu. They also cooked the best fish salad with onion, as Mr. Crizbasan Dorin, one of the judges, appreciated. 7th place – Revista lu’ Peste 6th place – VINCON 5th place – Casa SERENA ( Serena’s House ) 4th place – Ritmo Cafe Restaurant - Brasov 3rd place – Produse Moldovenesti ( Moldovian Products ) 2nd place – Peppi Delis – Bod 1st place – Hanul Dambu Morii ( Dambu Morii Inn )
Special prizes: The Most Creative Chef (sponsored by Moldovian Products ) – Smarandoiu Constantin from Ritmo Café Restaurant. The Best Harmony between Fish and Wine (sponsored by MBM Distribution) was won by the local fish magazine, Revista lu’ Peste. The Biggest Fish Caught – (sponsored by VINARTE) was won by Revista lu’ Peste; 7 kilos.
Borsch: serves 10 You will need: 500g onions, 500g carrots, 300g parsnips, 100g rice, bortsch (can use lemon juice but bors better), 2kg Romanian carp, 20g Lovage and 20g Dill. 1. Chop and boil the onions, carrots and parsnips. 2. Add the rice. 3. Add the Bors, Lovage, Dill and Carp and boil over a fire for 10 minutes. 4. Once boiled take off the heat and serve. This recipe is created for fish freshly caught from the lake. For store bought or other fish the cooking time will vary.
Romanian Carp: Serves 10 You will need: 500g onion, 500g carrot, 500g tomatoes, 300g parsnips, 100g garlic, 50g chili, 2kg carp, parsley leaves, and 2kg water. . 1. Chop and barbeque the onion, carrot, tomatoes, parsnips and chili to soften. 2. Boil the water and add all vegetables, including chopped garlic. 3. Meanwhile barbeque the carp with salt and parsley leaves. 4. When the vegetables are almost cooked and the fish is ready, add the fish to the boiling water. 5. Serve hot with polenta. “Fish Balls” You will need: Carp, onion, pepper, salt, chili paste, parsley, 2-3 eggs, milk and the centre of a loaf of bread. 1. De-bone the carp and chop well 2. Mix together the eggs, bread and milk. 3. Add the chopped onion, pepper, salt and chili paste to the egg mix and mix well. 4. Roll the mix in to small balls and shallow fry in oil. 5. Once cooked garnish with parsley and serve hot.