Food & Drink EXPERIENCE

By Kou Tukala Nyan

On Island Time

Infused with seaside charm no matter where you’re seated, Cabana is a slice of tropical paradise. Once we had parked in the lot behind their patio, my friend and I took to exploring. Upstairs is the Shark Bar, an event space complete with a disco ball and enormous shark suspended from the vaulted ceiling. From the first floor accented with shiny gold leaves and the brightly hued abstract paintings of the backroom to the resort-like outdoor Beach Bar boasting round white picnic tables and umbrellas, I knew we were in for a treat setting foot inside the Newport restaurant.

There are seating options for all styles of diners – whether huddling around a hightop or being social at the bar. We opted to

Tropics

settle into a comfy booth by the window so we could watch passersby stroll bustling Broadway, while singing along to the popular ‘70s and ‘80s hits that played overhead.

Our server Holland’s enthusiasm was contagious as he listed a range of food and drink recommendations. We started with a couple of bevvies to sip while thinking over our dinner options – and we loved our drinks. The Passion Spritz is a bright orange, pleasingly fruity and tangy selection that tastes like summer in a glass, with a splash of Aperol to counter the sweetness of passion fruit and Prosecco. Almost any drink on the menu can be served as a mocktail, so we also tried the Painkiller sans-alcohol, which was reminiscent

Must-Try Items

Passion Spritz ($12)

Aperol, passionfruit, and Prosecco

Shrimp ‘n Grits ($28)

Kenyon’s Grist Mill corn meal, native asparagus, shallot, and lemon

Apple Bread Pudding ($12)

Bread pudding, caramel, apple slices, and ginger ice cream of a piña colada with blended pineapple, orange, nutmeg, and coconut cream.

Enticed by all of Holland’s suggestions, and encouraged by his assurance that “You can’t go wrong!” with seafood apps, we finally decided on a round of Stu ed Clams and Sauteed Littlenecks. I thoroughly enjoyed assembling the lemon and garlic-seasoned meat of

CUISINE: New England coastal fare

ATMOSPHERE: Island vacation the littlenecks onto buttery, crunchy grilled sourdough bread. The clams were spicy and sweet, with a squeeze of lemon adding a yummy tartness.

Appetites whetted, next came an entree of Steak Frites, a hearty and juicy bistro filet topped with melt-in-your-mouth blue cheese; sauteed greens and mushrooms on the side soaked up the juices, creating a burst of umami, nicely accompanied by a side of baby potatoes with ketchup. We also raved over the Shrimp ‘n Grits: creamy, buttery, and smooth, with well-seasoned jumbo shrimp.

One more cocktail – the Spicy Guava Margarita – with lime, guava, and jalapeño-infused tequila, sweetened by a hint of agave was pure delight. We dug into the Apple Bread Pudding, a soft yet thick base with caramel, topped with tangy apple slices, served with a scoop of ginger ice cream on the side. It was the perfect note to end an evening that felt like an island vacation.

Cabana

140 Broadway • 401-324-5167

CabanaNewport.com

By Kennedy Ryan

For the Love of Wine

The sommelier at a Newport mainstay mindfully curates pairings that tell stories

Along with the lure of world-class steak over harborside views, 22 Bowen’s Wine Bar and Grille brings a sommelier’s touch to the culinary destination in the City by the Sea. Wine director Stephanie Steed curates an experience around each carefully selected pour.

Like many Rhode Islanders in the restaurant industry, Steed’s journey began at Johnson & Wales University, where she completed an Associate’s Degree in culinary arts, then a Bachelor’s Degree focusing on restaurant management with a double concentration in wine and beverage studies, and from there her path diverged from victuals to viticulture. “I went into my program wanting to be well-rounded,” says Steed. “I kind of just fell into my love for wine. It was a happy accident.”

After graduating, Steed started her career at Ocean House in Watch Hill, first serving, then as a sommelier. What started as an opportunity to work in fine dining before returning to the kitchen turned into over three years of experience and a slightly altered career path dedicated to furthering her skills in wine and beverage. While working at Ocean House, she completed her certification as a sommelier through the Court of Master Sommeliers.

“There’s something new to learn every day,” she says. “Tasting wine was great, but I really enjoyed learning about the history side of things.” After her time at Ocean House, Steed became the sommelier at The Wheatleigh Hotel in Lenox, Massachusetts where she ran their beverage program for three years. When the opportunity arose for her to return to Rhode Island at 22 Bowen’s Wine Bar and Grille, she was thrilled.

As the wine director, Steed is focused on small production, sustainability, and innovation. For pairings, her goal is to offer a wide selection of offerings. Visitors will still see traditional choices, with rotating favorites from California, France, and Italy on the menu, but Steed also pours a variety of new reserve wines by the glass, each with a focus on sustainability, small production, or female winemakers.

“I want to get to the point where sustainability isn’t just a fun fact because all of our offerings are like that. Everything can be sustainable,” says Steed, explaining that environmentally sound winemaking can adhere to a variety of disciplines, from pesticide-free practices to grapevines grown on solar-powered farms.

While every wine comes with its own unique flavor and origin, all of the selections share an added touch: they each have a history. “A great glass of wine is one that makes you feel very special because of its story. Those are the ones I’ve fallen in love with. I love hearing about wine created by small family businesses or female wine producers,” says Steed. “Wine is a very personal experience.”

Whether you’re new to wine or consider yourself an oenophile, Steed shares the same advice with both guests and restaurant sta for enjoying a glass of wine: “Slow down in your everyday life and take in what’s around you. A lot of elements in wine are nature based, but you can’t discover them unless you slow down to take them in,” she says. “When you’re on the beach, take in the salty air. Take in the flavors at the farmers market and in the grocery store. Pick up those aspects in your daily life.”

22 Bowen’s Wine Bar and Grille

Bowen’s Wharf, Newport • 401-841-8884 22Bowens.com

By Ken Abrams

The mood is bright and cheerful at the newly opened Wharf Fishhouse & Tiki Bar in Newport. Bowen’s Wharf is now home to the area’s only tiki bar, something owner Scott Kirmil felt was missing on Aquidneck Island. “My wife and I have always been into tiki bars and love going to di erent cities and checking out the best ones. We felt there was a void in Newport, which was kind of surprising given the yachty island-ness of the town,” says Kirmil.

The menu o ers Polynesian-inspired small plates like grilled prawns over island rice with papaya butter. “We’ve done some Hawaiian-style things including Coca-Cola barbeque spare ribs – super tender; they fall o the bone,” says Kirmil. “We’re also going old-school Hawaiian with Spam sliders, with a sweet southern slaw. Those have been a hit; people don’t usually see that around here.” The restaurant is open Wednesday through Sunday for dinner and drinks, with extended hours on weekends when Kirmil expects to serve late-night crowds, with the kitchen staying open until 11:30pm on Fridays and Saturdays.

41 Bowen’s Wharf, Newport, WharfFishHouseNewport.com

Culinary cultures collide in a South Kingstown eatery

Known for serving traditional Native American entrees, Willie’s Place recently reopened at a new location in Peace Dale. Owned and operated by William Johnson, a member of the Narragansett Tribe who grew up in Charlestown, the restaurant had previously only sold local favorites through a take-out window. “We now have indoor dining, a deck, and a bigger kitchen,” says Johnson.

The menu features creative comfort food. “I call it Native American fusion. That way, I can pretty much bring anything on and off the menu,” explains Johnson. “We’ll be doing a lot of traditional Native American meals, fresh lemonade, and weekly specials.” Willie’s signature dish is The Gansett, named after the tribe. “We take a traditional Native American fry bread and put taco toppings on it. Instead of a bean chili, I changed it to a three-meat chili with chorizo, beef chuck, and ground beef with beans served over fry bread with lettuce and tomato.” Top it off with house-made hot sauce and sour cream and you’re good to go! 1283 Kingstown Road, Wakefield, WilliesPlaceRI.com

Popular PVD brunch destination expanding

Known for drawing eager brunchers lining the sidewalk every weekend, Julian’s on Providence’s Broadway will soon be adding more seats, a new bar, and an inside waiting area. In 2020, owner Brian Oakley secured the space adjacent to the restaurant formerly occupied by Broadway Cleaners. “The plan was to expand into that space,” says Oakley. “Then the pandemic hit. With the shutdown, there was no sta ng, no seating; we literally put in the order for the windows we just installed over two years ago.”

The expansion is expected to be completed by the fall. “When the pause happened, we started closing at 8pm and went to an all-day brunch menu. [In May], we reimplemented our dinner program. That will be a part of the expansion.” That daily brunch menu, served from 9am until 4pm, features traditional entrees along with unique dishes like the Nova Scotia Eggs Benedict, Tofu Scram, and the popular Special Oakelbowl: “poached eggs laying majestically across a bed of Homies kicking it with smoked bacon and kimchi cuddling under a blanket of sriracha hollandaise with pillows made of scallions.” 318 Broadway, Providence, JuliansProvidence.com

Discover the flavors of Rhode Island! From fresh seafood shacks to farm-to-table eateries, little Rhody o ers a diverse culinary landscape that caters to all tastes. Indulge in delicious seafood, global cuisines, and locally-inspired dishes, and experience the culinary richness of the Ocean State with a dining experience that will leave you craving for more.

Dave’s Fresh Marketplace

1000 Division Street Suite 20, East Greenwich | 401-558-0190 | davesmarketplace.com/WeeklySpecials

Made fresh daily in our kitchens - 60+ Take Out Options!

All Favorites Cafe

1678 Broad St, Cranston | 401-941-3550 allfavoritescafe.com |

A Breakfast/Lunch restaurant serving a mash up of Southern and French inspired flavors. Everything from French Toast to Cubanos.

Chelo’s Hometown Bar & Grille

8 locations across RI!

Chelos.com |

A Rhode Island staple since 1955! Fresh, homemade deliciousness in every bite.

El Paisa Restaurant Patio and Bar

598 Dexter Street, Central Falls 401-726-8864 | ElPaisa.com |

Since 1978, El Paisa Restaurant and Bar has served home-cooked, classic Colombian recipes and cocktails with great joy.

BLU On The Water

20 Water St. East Greenwich | 401-885-3700 bluonthewater.com |

Fresh seafood daily and live outdoor entertainment make BLU RI’s premier waterfront destination.

Chelo’s Waterfront

1 Masthead Dr. Warwick | 401-884-3000

Cheloswaterfrontri.com |

Fresh food, family friendly, and unparalleled views of Greenwich Bay.

Mambo Sushi

380 Atwells Ave, Providence 401-642-8439 | mambosushiprovidence.com

Peruvian Flair to Asian Cuisine

CAV Restaurant

14 Imperial Place, Providence | 401 751-9164

CavRestaurant.com |

Bistro style Brunch and Lunch. Fine Dining Dinner.

The Coast Guard House Restaurant

40 Ocean Rd, Narragansett | 401-789-0700 thecoastguardhouse.com |

Waterfront dining - local raw bar, lobster, pasta, steak & seafood. Award-winning wine list. Dining rooms, bars, patio & deck.

Marcelino’s Boutique Bar

1 W Exchange St, Providence | 401-666-0088 marcelinosboutiquebar.com |

Craft cocktail bar serving Mid-Terranean Fusion Mezze and World-Class Craft Cocktails | #ItsMarcelinos

Slice of Heaven

32 Narragansett Ave. Jamestown

401-423-9866 | sliceofheavenri.com

| Serving breakfast, lunch and daily handcrafted pastries. Family and dog friendly with a great outdoor patio.

Stack House

99 Fortin Road, Unit 108, Kingston

401-854-7470 | Stackhouseus.com |

New England’s Premier Brunch, Fried Chicken and Southern Cuisine Restaurant with a menu boastings over 20 chicken flavors.

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Plus,

Feature

Tallulah’s Taqueria

Three Locations:

West End • Fox Point • Jamestown tallulahstaqueria.com |

Order by App, Online, or In-Store. Chicano Street Food...Rooted in Hospitality.

Twin Willows

865 Boston Neck Road, Narragansett

401-789-8153 | TwinWillowsRI.com |

Water-view dining with fresh lobsters & steamers served daily in this casual sports bar/restaurant.

For