Food & Drink

Sweet Success

After summers scooping ice cream, the founder of Warren’s coziest cafe has coffee and crepes ready for all-day seaside snacking

A visit to Warren promises plenty of surprises these days, with recently opened spots like cheese shop Wedge, the Bakeshop at Bywater, and CHOMP Kitchen and Drinks’ newest location all in close proximity. A stone’s throw away is Tra ord Restaurant for seafood, and nestled among the emerging foodie destination is a prime example of a “small” business – in both its square footage and personalized service – Cafe Water Street.

The petite shiplap shack close to Town Wharf specializes in made-to-order crepes and cafe drinks, along with small-batch scones, mu ns, cookies, and even the occasional fudge – all of which pair well with a salty breeze if you’re seated on their outdoor patio in the summer. Owner John Valerio is no stranger to seaside snacking. “I started out serving ice cream as a teenager at Sunshine Creamery in Rumford,” he says. “After 25 summers there, I decided to set out on my own.”

Swapping frozen dessert for buzzy beverages, Valerio found his calling in co ee. “Our drink menu centers on fantastic locally roasted co ee from Coastal Roasters,” he explains. “All of our co ees and espresso drinks are made from their beans. We make our iced co ee from specially roasted beans in small batches, which we also sell by the bag.”

Crepes are customizable, but the classic Nutella and Strawberry is Valerio’s most consistent fan favorite, with the subtly sweet Brie, fruit, and honey crepe taking a close second. Though easy to assume Cafe Water Street is just a breakfast spot, it’s open until 10pm every day to satiate crepe-for-dinner cravings (the savory egg, mushroom, and Swiss combo can’t be beat) during a night on the town. “Since we opened our doors in 2013, we’ve watched Warren evolve and grow,” Valerio reflects. “We are proud to be part of a vibrant community of small businesses, including eateries, boutiques, antique stores, and so much more.” 279 Water Street, Warren, CafeWaterStreet.com | By

Abbie Lahmers

Food & Drink EXPERIENCE

Dinner Theater

By Elyse Major

Inside a small private room at Cli Walk’s only luxury hotel, an eight-act blind tasting awaits

Before my immersive foodie adventure at The Chanler in Newport, I confess to never having noticed the 19th century mansion right up there on Cli Walk even though I’ve been going to Easton’s Beach for years. In addition to being a hotel, The Chanler has The Lounge, a handsome bar for handcrafted cocktails and spirits; The Cafe, an eatery overlooking the Atlantic serving breakfast, lunch, and dinner; and then there’s Cara, the property’s Forbes FiveStar restaurant and the setting for this tale.

It was a dark and stormy night when my husband and I arrived and were led to a small private room on the main level of The Chanler. Large windows revealed brief flashes of moonlit waves below and candles flickered atop white linen tablecloths. Dinner would be a blind tasting, which means guests are unaware of what will be served. This “gastronomic journey,” as it’s described on the website, is as much about presentation and performance as it is about the meal itself.

My husband and I were seated at a round table toward the back of the dining area in the company of a few other eager guests at their tables. It was just after 8pm and we diners smiled widely at each other as if a magic show were about to unfold. Before long, executive chef Jacob Jasinski introduced himself, welcomed all, and let us know we would be sampling New England flavors in a menu prepared with chef Dylan Cadrette of nearby Castle Hill. There were also optional wine pairings with each course curated by Jace Cha ee, a Level II Certified Sommelier and founder of The Vine Farmer in nearby Massachusetts.

“In Cara, we adjust the nightly blind tasting menus to highlight whatever ingredient is at its prime for the day,” began Jasinski. “We always try to focus as much as possible on the ingredients that come from our immediate region, as close to The Chanler and the shores of Rhode Island as possible.”

Our server placed petite mother-of-pearl spoons before each of us, so I knew this meant the first course would include caviar, which is traditionally served sans metal for optimal flavor. Arranged artfully over a branded napkin, the briny black beads were housed in a tin with pieces of crab, razor clam, and cauliflower. This unexpected combination truly set the stage for adventurous eating ahead. This dinner was not for the fussy or hurried.

Prior to the start of each course, Jasinski opened the doors – which were kept closed during the entire tasting – to enter and explain what we are about to eat and why, how dishes were crafted around ingredients harvested at their peak, and the contemporary twists applied. Plates were cleared, new plates returned, and small glasses of wine to complement each dish were poured.

Course two was my first time eating venison; it was free-range and served as a flavorful bouillon topped with a floating crispy disc garnished with radish slices and shallots. Next, a thick piece of North Atlantic halibut with savory rice and uni (another first), and pieces of turnip in a creamy tru e emulsion were presented, followed by a plate of bread and butter. Course four was Paccheri Pasta – not your ordinary ziti, the toothsome trio of ribbed tubes is filled with smoked duck and hazelnut

CUISINE: European-inspired contemporary ATMOSPHERE: Elegant fine dining

Wednesday - Sunday

Seating 1: 5pm, Five-Course Blind Tasting

($155 per guest plus tax and gratuity; optional wine pairing $105 per guest)

Seating 2: 8pm, Eight-Course Blind Tasting ($225 per guest plus tax and gratuity; optional wine pairing $150 per guest) in an earthy Perigourdine tru e sauce.

NOTE: When making reservations, it’s important to note that restrictions like vegan, vegetarian, or menus free from milk protein and gluten are unable to be accommodated; for severe allergies or restrictions, The Cafe is recommended.

By 9:45pm, it was time for Mishima

Wagyu rib steak with a confit potato, mushrooms, and foie gras, followed by a small plate of cheeses and medley of seasonal fruits. Meyer lemon sorbet garnished with kumquat, pistachio, and ginger crumb signaled we were nearing the end of this tour de force. For the final act, a confectionary contraption starring Valrhona Dark Chocolate and Madagascar vanilla ice cream closed the show.

After a heartwarming curtain call, all guests were given a personalized card stock menu, signed by chefs, cooks, and servers – an endearing gesture. Exiting the private room, we stopped by the open kitchen to chat with Jasinski and his crew. “That’s the best meal I’ve ever had,” my husband gushed. The following morning, we were still talking about everything we ate, the foods we tried for the first time, the combinations of flavors, and how despite it being such a luxe occasion, there were no pretensions.

Cara

The Chanler at Cliff Walk 117 Memorial Blvd, Newport 401-847-2244, TheChanler.com/Cara-restaurant

Nestled on the Bristol Waterfront among shops and restaurants you will find an intimate gallery exploding with the work of local artists. TH/F 4-7, Sat 1-5, by appointment, or when the flag is out

By Ken Abrams

Sandwiches and more in Middletown

Middletown’s newest neighborhood sandwich shop, serving comfort food at reasonable prices, has taken over the space formerly occupied by Sig’s Place. “I’ve been collecting recipes and banking sandwiches in my head for the last 20 years,” says owner and Middletown resident Felecia Landers. The shop opened this spring and quickly became popular with locals and tourists alike. The most popular o erings are the Surfers End – a sandwich featuring grilled chicken, fresh mozzarella, basil aioli, arugula, tomato, bacon, and avocado – and the Beast of the East, with roast beef, Boursin cheese, pickled red onion, lettuce, tomato, and roasted garlic aioli. There’s also a kids’ menu to entice fickle young eaters. “I have a daughter and I know that it’s super hard to find anything good for kids. We have peanut butter and jelly, turkey and cheese, tuna sandwiches, fruit snacks and juice boxes,” says Landers. “I’m trying my hardest to keep everything as affordable as possible. I’m not trying to get rich; I’m just trying to make a living, keep my staff going, keep the restaurant going, and provide for my family.” Middletown, TheRoastedCloveRI.com

Plant-forward cafe puts down roots in Pawtucket

Like many new entrepreneurs, Chris and Mandy Aubin used the pandemic as an opportunity to refocus their lives. “I’ve always loved coffee and like a lot of people, my wife got really into plants during the pandemic,” says Chris. “We thought, maybe there’s a space for retail products unique to what we are interested in.” The couple decided to follow their passion and Seed Café and Espresso Bar, a space selling coffee and plants at Still on Main in downtown Pawtucket, was born.

“The whole concept of the co ee shop is essentially wanting to show co ee as a sense of place, where the co ee comes from, focusing on single origins,” says Chris. “Customers can get multiple brewed co ees in di erent ways – drips, pour-overs, and iced, without it being too complicated.” The cafe also o ers build-yourown breakfast sandwiches at a ordable price points. Additional menu items, including toasts and sandwiches, as well as in-cafe events will be added later this summer. Look for their products at the Pawtucket Farmers Market at The Guild Brewery through October. Pawtucket, Facebook: Seed Cafe RI

What’s brewing in South County

The state’s newest small-batch brewery is scheduled to open in South Country Commons in late summer. Named for popular Route 1 landmark, the Hannah Robinson Tower, Tower Hill Brewery is a dream come true for four lifelong friends. Like many new projects in the food service industry, it’s been a long time coming. “There are still supply chain issues due to the pandemic,” says co-founder Brian Hubert.

Expect the brewery to have a widespread selection of popular beers. “We’ll have a great offering of hazy IPAs, which everyone loves,” says Hubert. “Ivan, our head brewer, who has been homebrewing for several years, has an amazing porter that he is going to scale up.” Tower Hill will also serve seasonal brews such as winter ales, summer blondes, and Oktoberfests. A seasonal beer garden will offer “800-900 square feet of outdoor space that will open into the main area inside,” adds Hubert. “We’re going to really encourage our customers to become patrons of the restaurants in South County Commons. We’re also hoping to do some live entertainment.” South Kingston, TowerHillBrewing.com

Discover the flavors of Rhode Island! From fresh seafood shacks to farm-to-table eateries, little Rhody o ers a diverse culinary landscape that caters to all tastes. Indulge in delicious seafood, global cuisines, and locally-inspired dishes, and experience the culinary richness of the Ocean State with a dining experience that will leave you craving for more.

Dave’s Fresh Marketplace

1000 Division Street Suite 20, East Greenwich | 401-558-0190 | davesmarketplace.com/WeeklySpecials

Made fresh daily in our kitchens - 60+ Take Out Options!

All Favorites Cafe

1678 Broad St, Cranston | 401-941-3550 allfavoritescafe.com |

A Breakfast/Lunch restaurant serving a mash up of Southern and French inspired flavors. Everything from French Toast to Cubanos.

Chelo’s Hometown Bar & Grille

8 locations across RI!

Chelos.com |

A Rhode Island staple since 1955! Fresh, homemade deliciousness in every bite.

El Paisa Restaurant Patio and Bar

598 Dexter Street, Central Falls 401-726-8864 | ElPaisa.com |

Since 1978, El Paisa Restaurant and Bar has served home-cooked, classic Colombian recipes and cocktails with great joy.

BLU On The Water

20 Water St. East Greenwich | 401-885-3700 bluonthewater.com |

Fresh seafood daily and live outdoor entertainment make BLU RI’s premier waterfront destination.

Chelo’s Waterfront

1 Masthead Dr. Warwick | 401-884-3000

Cheloswaterfrontri.com |

Fresh food, family friendly, and unparalleled views of Greenwich Bay.

Mambo Sushi

380 Atwells Ave, Providence 401-642-8439 | mambosushiprovidence.com

Peruvian Flair to Asian Cuisine

CAV Restaurant

14 Imperial Place, Providence | 401 751-9164

CavRestaurant.com |

Bistro style Brunch and Lunch. Fine Dining Dinner.

The Coast Guard House Restaurant

40 Ocean Rd, Narragansett | 401-789-0700 thecoastguardhouse.com |

Waterfront dining - local raw bar, lobster, pasta, steak & seafood. Award-winning wine list. Dining rooms, bars, patio & deck.

Marcelino’s Boutique Bar

1 W Exchange St, Providence | 401-666-0088 marcelinosboutiquebar.com |

Craft cocktail bar serving Mid-Terranean Fusion Mezze and World-Class Craft Cocktails | #ItsMarcelinos

Slice of Heaven

32 Narragansett Ave. Jamestown

401-423-9866 | sliceofheavenri.com

| Serving breakfast, lunch and daily handcrafted pastries. Family and dog friendly with a great outdoor patio.

Stack House

99 Fortin Road, Unit 108, Kingston

401-854-7470 | Stackhouseus.com |

New England’s Premier Brunch, Fried Chicken and Southern Cuisine Restaurant with a menu boastings over 20 chicken flavors.

Plus,

Tallulah’s Taqueria

Three Locations:

West End • Fox Point • Jamestown tallulahstaqueria.com |

Order by App, Online, or In-Store. Chicano Street Food...Rooted in Hospitality.

Twin Willows

865 Boston Neck Road, Narragansett

401-789-8153 | TwinWillowsRI.com |

Water-view dining with fresh lobsters & steamers served daily in this casual sports bar/restaurant.

For

By Jenna Pelletier

All in the Family

Fresh Italian ingredients are at the heart of a Tiverton speciality store

The first time David Lopes stepped inside Tiverton’s Litl Rhody Pasta K.O., he had no idea he’d be running the shop one day. He was a customer shopping for fresh pasta made by previous owner Steve Bird.

Over the years, Lopes became a regular, stopping by for Bird’s handmade ravioli, linguini, and other handmade creations whenever a craving hit. One day in the winter of 2022, Bird mentioned that he was getting tired and thinking of slowing down. “I said, ‘if you’re going to sell the business, would you please sell it to me?’” Lopes recalls.

It took some time, but eventually Bird agreed. About six months later, in September 2022, Lopes and his family – a partnership which includes wife Andrea and their sons, brother William and his wife Sarah, many cousins, and more – o cially bought the shop. It’s a perfect complement to their other business, an olive oil and vinegar store called Virgin and Aged in Newport.

Operating two businesses as a family has its challenges, Lopes admits. But everyone works well together to keep things running smoothly. They live in Portsmouth, not far from either shop. “We are all on the go quite a bit, but it’s not just one person trying to do everything, which really helps,” he says.

Even though ownership changed, the focus sticks to what it has been known for since the beginning: creating the freshest handmade pasta, sold by the pound or the piece, and available in various shapes and flavors. The menu, which is posted on social media, changes a bit from day to day. Walk in at any given time, and you’ll find the case filled with options like bucatini arranged in nest-like piles, diablo (spicy) rigatoni, and pasta sheets in flavors ranging from garlic basil to black pepper.

The store’s ravioli – with filling flavors like lobster, butternut squash, and burrata with spinach – are popular with customers, as are its take-and-bake meals. Options include sausage lasagna, meatball and ricotta rigatoni, and bu alo chicken mac and cheese.

Making large quantities of fresh pasta is labor intensive, Lopes emphasizes. To lighten the load, they have developed a partnership with Alex Reppe, who serves as chef and manager at the shop. Reppe also runs his own business, Newport Pasta Co., through which he teaches pasta-making classes at Rhode Island breweries and sells at farmers’ markets.

In keeping with the Italian theme, the family’s Virgin and Aged olive oils and vinegars are also available at the Tiverton store. “We are excited about our small part in bringing these quality products to the region in a mom-and-pop style that is fleeting in an era of big box chain food purveyors,” says co-owner William Lopes.

Litl Rhody Pasta K.O. also sells to restaurant clients, including Fieldstones in Portsmouth, as well as Newport’s Brick Alley Pub, Sardella’s, and The Safari Room at Oceancli . To meet wholesale demand, Lopes just invested in a new pasta-making machine that will help the shop produce ravioli more eciently. “It’s going to revolutionize our production,” Lopes says. “It’s a good problem to have, but it’s still a problem when you have an item that’s so popular, you can’t keep up.”