Food & Drink EXPERIENCE
By Ann O’Neill
Just Right Newport eatery specializing in seafood delivers on coastal sights and Italian bites More than just a clever name for an Italian restaurant, Giusto has several translations: “We like ‘just right’,” says chef and owner Kevin O’Donnell. For Newport, “just right” conjures scenes of dinner on the water with warm salty breezes, glowing sunsets, and distant chimes of ships’ bells – unless it’s raining and you’re sitting inside. “[In good weather] both walls open entirely, even opposite the bar,” says general manager Aaron Edwards, “so the whole restaurant feels like it’s outside.” A thoughtful design by Libby Slader uses clean lines, mixed neutrals, and soft lighting to create warmth even on a drizzly afternoon. I start with the Bicicleta Rosa Spritz for its unique blend of a trendy Sicilian Rosé, Itali-
cus Bergamot Liqueur, and Carpano botanic bitters. It is sharp and refreshing with just a hint of citrus. My guest chooses the fizzy Ferragosto, a sweet and spicy combination of vodka, watermelon, ginger, and Prosecco. There is a story behind the Joanne’s Sangria on the menu, a loving jab at O’Donnell’s mother-in-law who pours Fresca into her wine and calls it sangria. Giusto’s upgraded version has added ripe stone fruits and berries, but they’ve kept the Fresca. For appetizers, or “snacks” as they’re called at Giusto, O’Donnell says The Scotch Meatball is a must-have. A perfectly softboiled egg is at the center of a well-seasoned and crisply coated fresh sausage meatball. Thankfully, there are no breakfast
or fennel vibes here, favoring garnishes of micro celery and shaved Parmigiano Reggiano, with a jammy tomato sauce that contains salumi and pepperoni. Second to arrive is Fett’unta, a Tuscan version of bruschetta which translates to “oily slice.” Sweet, ripe grape tomatoes, torn basil, and a fruity olive oil are perfectly salted and shine, literally, atop a grilled slice of ciabatta. We decided to share a pasta course and chose the Casarecci, which I knew from my first glimpse of the menu that I would need to try this unique pairing of spicy n’duja sausage and classic basil pesto. Giusto has embraced the Italian manner of dressing pasta using sauce as a light condimenti or
Photos courtesy of Giusto Newport
On a sunny day, Giusto opens up two walls to let the sea breeze in
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The Bay • September 2021
