Cape Cod Town-by-Town by Providence Test

A SNAPSHOT OF THE UNIQUE COMMUNITIES OF CAPE COD

Cape Cod by

INSIDE : A look at the rich history, attractions

and demographics of your Cape Cod Towns

2016

TOWN TOWN

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2016

TOWN BY TOWN

Demographic information source: Barnstable County Commission (statscapecod.org) ABOVE: Passers-by leave stones bearing thoughtful messages at the Sandwich Boardwalk. MERRILY CASSIDY/CAPE COD TIMES FILE ON THE COVER: An artist paints the landscape at Paines Creek in Brewster. MERRILY CASSIDY/CAPE COD TIMES FILE THE STAFF | Editor: Mary Weatherby | Design: Gatehouse Media | Advertising Manager: Kevin Karras

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BOURNE

Town offers history, recreation on both sides of canal By Kerri Kelleher Contributing writer

As a town divided by the Cape Cod Canal, it can be tough not to pick sides when visiting Bourne. With its two bridges that serve as the gateway to the rest of Cape Cod, Bourne should not be treated like a drive-by. There are plenty of things to do and see in Bourne’s villages: Buzzards Bay, Bournedale and Sagamore Beach on the mainland and Sagamore, Bourne Village, Gray Gables, Monument Beach, Pocasset and Cataumet on the Cape side. The Cape Cod Canal service road and bike path is a perfect way to get a closer look at the canal and the bridges. Visitors can stop at various rest areas and parking lots along both sides of the canal and get out for a walk, bike ride or to fish. The paved service road is 7 miles long on the mainland side and 6.5 miles long on the Cape side, according to Samantha Gray, park ranger at the Cape Cod Canal station. “You’ll see something new every time you go to the canal and I think that’s why it’s so popular,” Gray said. While many see the stretch of road as a leisure outlet, the road is still used by the Army Corps of Engineers to maintain parts of the canal, according to Gray. More than 3 million visitors come to the canal every year. “Whether it’s a watching a unique vessel or hauling in a huge striped bass, there’s something for everyone.” For those biking on the Cape side of the canal, one of the most popular attractions for visitors is the Aptucxet Trading Post, located along the edge of the canal in Bourne. The compound features a replica of the Dutch trading post built on the original foundation dating back to 1620, as well as a windmill from the Netherlands, and the personal

An aerial view along the Cape Cod Canal at Massachusetts Maritime Academy in Buzzards Bay during the visit of the Coast Guard Barque Eagle that joined the T.S. Kennedy. STEVE HEASLIP/CAPE COD TIMES FILE

Hidden Gem: Bourne Conservation Trust trails For walkers of all experience levels, the Bourne Conservation Trust has mapped, marked and maintains several walking trails throughout Bourne. These include trails at the Bourne Sister’s Woodland, the Cataumet Greenway, Lawrence Island, Little Bay and Monks Park, Nickerson Conservation Area and Red Brook Pond Conservation Area. For information on the trails and on the Bourne Conservation Trust in general, go to bourneconservationtrust.org.

railroad station of President Grover Cleveland in Gray Gables. Continued on page 4

Lights reflect on the still waters of the Cape Cod Canal looking east before sunrise. STEVE HEASLIP/CAPE COD TIMES FILE

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Continued from page 3

Kingman Yacht Center in the village of Cataumet. STEVE HAINES/CAPE COD TIMES FILE

A tug boat fires its water cannons next to the Railroad Bridge in Bourne. CAPE COD TIMES FILE

With a multicultural history, thousands of people come from all over the world to visit one of earliest sites of interstate commerce between the Dutch, English, and Native Americans. “We have a lot of people from other countries and a lot of local people too,” said Skip Barlow, president of the Bourne Historical Society, which oversees Aptucxet. New this year to Aptucxet is the deck cabin of a coastal schooner from the 1850s, as well as large pavilion for community use, according to Barlow. The compound opens for the season May 27. “I love the community and camaraderie of the people that come through here,” Barlow said. “The Trading Post is unique and you’re not going to find another one like it.” For a bit more history, the Jonathan Bourne Historic Center on Keene Street, was given to the town by daughter of whaling magnate Jonathan Bourne, for whom the town was named. The building houses town archives as well as exhibits of artifacts from the Bourne Historical Society. In Bourne Village, the Alonzo Booth Blacksmith Shop was restored in 1998 as a working forge with blacksmiths on the job during open hours. It’s been said President Grover Cleveland’s horses were shod here. Ride your bike along the canal to Sagamore’s Pairpoint Glass to watch seasoned glass blowers craft unique artisanal glass pieces in all shapes and sizes. Founded in 1837, Pairpoint is the oldest glass company in the United States. Visitors can watch glass blowers at work from a viewing window within the showroom. “The glass blowers at Pairpoint have all been with the company for at least 30 Continued on page 5

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The gazebo in Buzzards Bay Park is decorated to celebrate the 100th anniversary of the Cape Cod Canal in July 2014. CAPE COD TIMES FILE

This harbor seal pup is just one of the marine animals rescued and rehabilitated at the National Marine Life Center in Buzzards Bay. STEVE HAINES/CAPE COD TIMES FILE

“I love the community and camaraderie of the people that come through here. The Trading Post is unique and you’re not going to ﬁnd another one like it.” Skip Barlow President of the Bourne Historical Society The Gray Gables train station, built for President Grover Cleveland, was moved to the grounds of the Aptucxet Trading Post on the canal. STEVE HEASLIP/CAPE COD TIMES FILE

Continued from page 4 years,” Pairpoint president Gary Tulman said. Tulman and his brother, Jeff, took over the company last year after the death of the previous owner. “The staff are a source of knowledge and perspective and it’s their custom work that makes us unique.” For a bite to eat, the Mezza Luna

restaurant in Buzzards Bay is one of the most well-known restaurants in town for homemade Italian food. The restaurant, which is 79 years old, boasts a large menu of made-from-scratch Italian dishes, with recipes passed down three generations, current owner E.J. Cubellis said. With a huge local following, the

restaurant is one of the few in the area that stays just as busy in the winter as it does in the summer. “My father always said, ‘Take care of the local guy and you’ll have business all year long,’ ” Cubellis said. While in Buzzards Bay, stop in at the National Marine Life Center — a combination aquarium, science

museum, rescue hospital and education center that features seals, turtles and other local sea life. On Thursdays in July and August, the Cape Cod Canal Region Chamber of Commerce sponsors its summer concert series at the gazebo in Buzzards Bay featuring a range of music with the Railroad Bridge as a backdrop.

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FALMOUTH

Sandbars, sailing and science: This town has it all By Rachael Devaney Contributing writer

Located on the southwest corner of Cape Cod, Falmouth is surrounded by Buzzards Bay on the west side and Vineyard and Nantucket sounds on the south, and offers a world of possibilities for activities, sightseeing and attractions. While a myriad of options are available during the summer, including sailing and whale-watching throughout the sound, golfing at the Falmouth Country Club, kayaking through Waquoit Bay, and cycling through the Shining Sea Bikeway, many people want to just kick back and catch a few rays at the beach. And because of its stunning views of Buzzards Bay and a series of sandbars that pop up along shore during low tide, Old Silver Beach is usually

Running from the waves at Old Silver Beach. STEVE HAINES/CAPE COD TIMES FILE

Hidden Gem: Washburn Island Washburn Island, located within the Waquoit Bay National Estuarine Research Reserve, is not only a camping site for families and small groups, but also one of the last large undeveloped coastal properties on Cape Cod and is considered a jewel within the reserve.

the prime destination for beachgoers. The picturesque property, which has showers, food stands, and plenty of parking, attracts visitors because of the fish, crabs, and clams that can be seen in its warm, clear water, and also because of its calm shores and family atmosphere. If Old Silver becomes too crowded, there are seven other beaches in the area

to choose from, including Chapoquoit Beach â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Â a peninsula that offers a more secluded feel; Grews Pond Beach, a tree-lined freshwater beach that includes a volleyball net and a barbecue area; and Falmouth Heights

Beach, which attracts huge crowds July 4 because of its legendary fireworks display sponsored every year by the town. Besides the diverse array of seaside destinations, the town has also become known

for the environmental and oceanographic research conducted at the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution. Hundreds of Woods Hole scientists and engineers travel around the globe to not only investigate worldwide problems like climate change, oil spills and acidification, but to also create and build tools that can help solve these problems. Because of the scientific culture that surrounds the town, other environmentally conscious organizations have also settled in the village of Woods Hole, including the Buzzards Bay Coalition, a nonprofit organization dedicated to the restoration, protection and sustainable use of the bay; Marine Biological Laboratory, an international, independent, nonprofit institution Continued on page 7

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Continued from page 6 dedicated to discovery and to improving human condition through creative research and education in the biological, biomedical and environmental sciences; and the Zephyr Education Foundation Inc., an organization that hosts roughly 1,500 students a year through the Ocean Science and Technology Program, which includes a hands-on scientific cruise on Vineyard Sound and a session in a specimen tank room at the research labs. These organizations come together not only to promote a culture of caring but to make a difference for the town of Falmouth, as well as around the globe. While townspeople remain dedicated to the conservation of the area, visitors and locals can also find some of the best locally owned stores the Cape has to offer on Main Street in Falmouth. The strip is home to famed establishments like Eight Cousins Bookstore, and Ghelfi’s Candies of Cape Cod, and also features dozens of restaurants that offer traditional Cape Cod fare, as well as Indian, Mexican, and Italian options. Adjacent to the downtown shopping area is the Falmouth Public Library, which offers family activities and programming yearround, including “Falmouth Reads Together,” “Tots ‘n Tales,” and “Music and Movement.” Just across the street from the library, families will find a stateof-the art playground at the Mullen-Hall Elementary School, as well as the Carousel of Light, which runs throughout the summer and features a variety of theme nights including “The Rat Pack,” and “The Beatles.” For those seeking a more rustic experience, Washburn Island, located within the Waquoit Bay National Estuarine Research Reserve, is not only a camping site for families and small groups, but also one of the last large undeveloped coastal properties on Cape Cod and is considered a jewel within the reserve. The property, which can be reached only by boat, features trails, barrier beaches, oak and pine forests and nature viewing and exploration areas. Continued on page 8

Nobska Light in Woods Hole. STEVE HAINES/CAPE COD TIMES FILE

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Continued from page 7 Matthew Sisk, deputy commissioner for the Department of Conservation and Recreation, says the area, which is co-managed by the National Oceanic Atmospheric Administration, is by far one of the most unique areas on the Cape. “One of the greatest thing about the island, and the 300 acres of land, is that people can only get there by kayaking, canoeing, or boating, so there are no cars or off-road vehicles,” Sisk said. “That really impacts the feel of the area and visiting the island is a great way for people to have more of an adventure, but also be close to home.” Renee Lopes-Pocknett, of Mashpee, has been frequenting Washburn Island for almost 40 years and remembers learning to swim there, as well as fishing, camping and clamming there as a young girl. LopesPocknett now takes her own children and says it’s been the source of “many amazing memories.” “We used to get in my dad’s or my uncle’s boat and go out to the island a few times a week. Even in the middle of the summer it felt like the off-season because no one was around,” LopesPocknett said. “As kids we used to find bay scallops, clams, quahogs and even blue crabs and my kids love to do that now.” Over the years, LopesPocknett admits, the area has become a “bit more well known” but remains a source of traditional and rustic entertainment for all. “Washburn Island is a special place for those who are from the area and for those that are just discovering it for the first time,” she said. “And while it’s not as quiet as it once was, it’s still one of my favorite places to spend time with my family and we always find and discover something new.”

Elite runners take off from from the starting line in the annual Falmouth Road Race. MERRILY CASSIDY/CAPE COD TIMES FILE

Spohr Gardens is full of blooming daffodils. MERRILY CASSIDY/CAPE COD TIMES FILE

Excitement aboard the Carousel of Light in Falmouth. CAPE COD TIMES FILE

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MASHPEE

Tradition, culture and some of nature’s best-kept secrets By Rachael Devaney Contributing writer

ashpee, with its coastal beaches, cultural opulence and go-to shopping destinations, has it all.

While the town features some of the most beautiful seaside spots on Cape Cod like South Cape Beach and Waquoit Bay, where people can swim, catch a sunset, or fish, it’s also a place where folks can investigate the cultural history of the surrounding area. The Cape Cod Children’s Museum offers events and programming for children throughout the year, the Cahoon Museum of American Art holds art festivals and exhibits, and the Mashpee Wampanoag Indian Museum outlines the history and culture of Wampanoag people from the Stone Age to present day through a range of exhibits. The Mashpee Wampanoag Indian Museum, in particular, is linked to the federally recognized Mashpee Wampanoag Tribe, also known as “The People of the First Light.” The tribe, which recently established its own reservation within the heart of Mashpee, has inhabited Cape Cod and the surrounding islands for thousands of years. In celebration of its culture, as well as that of Native American nations across the country, the tribe hosts the annual Mashpee Wampanoag Pow Wow for three days every July. Spectators can watch cultural dancers dressed in traditional regalia, experience Native American cuisine and purchase traditional jewelry and arts and crafts from the many vendors who travel to Mashpee ever year from across the country. There is also plenty happening at Mashpee Commons, an outdoor shopping center of roughly 100 stores and restaurants. Many business owners in Mashpee Commons host individual events such as Paint Night at the Cape Cod Art Bar, or jazz brunch at Bleu restaurant, and also come together for larger-scale affairs such as the annual community picnic and fireworks in July and the Mashpee Christmas

Mashpee Commons, an outdoor shopping center with the feel of a New England village, offers shops, restaurants and local activities. STEVE HAINES/CAPE COD TIMES FILE

Hidden Gem: Mashpee River Reservation While many of Mashpee's favorite destinations are well-known, Mashpee River Reservation is one place that can be considered a well-kept secret. The area, which encompasses 248 acres of shoreline and natural spawning areas, is open year-round and surrounded by lush green forests in the spring and summer, followed by bright red, yellow and gold foliage throughout the fall.

parade, which draws families from other Cape towns and the South Coast. On cold or rainy days during the summer, the complex also offers alternatives to the beach, such as bowling at The Lanes Bowl and

Bistro or catching the latest movie at Regal Mashpee Commons Cinema. While many of Mashpee’s favorite destinations are well-known, the Mashpee River Reservation is one place that can be considered a wellkept secret.

The area, which encompasses 248 acres of shoreline and natural spawning areas, is surrounded by lush green forests in the spring and summer, followed by bright red, yellow and gold foliage throughout the fall. Since roughly 1915, there have been significant conservation efforts that have protected the tidal river, which begins at Mashpee-Wakeby Pond and empties into Pirate’s Cove on Popponesset Bay. Because the natural beauty and health of the system has endured over the years, Cape residents frequent SEE MASHPEE, 10

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MASHPEE From Page 9

the site to hike through the Mashpee River Woodlands, while others canoe and kayak from Old Farley Camp. Juarez Stanley, a Mashpee resident and member of the Mashpee Wampanoag Tribe, grew up around the river system and calls the reservation one of the “most gorgeous” places on the Cape. “In terms of beauty, there is no area like it on Cape Cod. My grandfather lived by the river and as kids growing up, my cousins and I would go down there in the spring and summer with nets and catch herring — or if we didn’t have a net we could just run through the streams and catch them with our hands,” Stanley said. “The SEE MASHPEE, 11

Autumn leaves along Mashpee River conservation lands. RON SIKORA/CAPE COD TIMES FILE

A cranberry bog on the Willowbend Golf Course is wet-harvested on an early October morning. STEVE HEASLIP/CAPE COD TIMES

Mashpee Wampanoag tribe members dressed in traditional clothing dance at the annual powwow. STEVE HAINES/CAPE COD TIMES FILE

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MASHPEE From Page 10

river systems that run through Mashpee also bring up the brook trout and a lot of people come out there to cast their lines, not just because of the fish, but because it’s so quiet, serene and peaceful.” Stanley, who works as a carpenter and part-time photographer, also commented on the reservation’s annual transformation throughout late summer and fall. He says there is a distinct difference between seasons, all of which make the area “something to remember.” “There’s a point on the river where the area just opens up and it doesn’t even look like Cape Cod — it looks like somewhere in Vermont where people go to watch the foliage,” Stanley said. “It’s definitely one of my favorite spots in Mashpee and I’m surprised that more people don’t know about it. But, then again, it’s nice to have it all to ourselves.”

A young beachgoer enjoys an ice cream sandwich at South Cape Beach. CAPE COD TIMES FILE

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SANDWICH

Cape’s oldest town boasts history, adventure, charm By Kerri Kelleher Contributing writer

Sandwich, the oldest town on Cape Cod, is a year-round hive of activity for residents and visitors alike. The boardwalk at Town Neck Beach is recognized by the National Register of Historic Places as one of the finest boardwalks in the country, according to Guy Boucher, director of Sandwich Recreation Department. Beachgoers can walk along the boardwalk as it cuts through the marsh system and leads to Cape Cod Bay. Many of the boards on the boardwalk have been engraved with names of people and pets as part of a past project to repair the boardwalk. For many, jumping off the boardwalk in the summer is seen as a rite of passage. “It’s quintessential Cape Cod, it’s a beautiful place” Boucher said. In nearby Sandwich center, the Thomas Dexter Grist Mill is grinding corn from June to Columbus Day. The mill, which dates to the 1600s, is powered by a large water wheel and a small pond. “It’s amazing to look at; it’s built with just wood and stone, “ Boucher said. Bags of this fresh-ground cornmeal can be bought at the mill. “A lot of people say it’s the best cornmeal they’ve ever had,” Boucher said. On the edge of the marsh on Route 6A is the Marshland Bakery and Restaurant, which offers classic comfort food and homemade baked goods. “Many people come in to get out of traffic in the summertime,” co-owner Kim Babiarz said. Along with her partner, Martin Finch, the pair have been running the Marshland since 2001 and have expanded their business to include another Marshland, the

A visitor photographs blooming hydrangeas at Heritage Museum & Gardens. MERRILY CASSIDY/CAPE COD TIMES FILE

Hidden Gem: Jammaking at Green Briar Join a workshop in the Thornton Burgess Society's historic 1903 Green Briar Jam Kitchen in East Sandwich and make your own batch of seasonal jams. There are adult and family workshops featuring such delectables as strawberry jam, cherry apricot jam, red onion jam, pineapple jam or peachy sun salsa among others. All materials are provided, and participants take home four to six jars of their ﬁnished product.

An artist captures the grist mill on Shawme Pond. STEVE HEASLIP/CAPE COD TIMES FILE

Marshland Too, in Sandwich as well as one on Route 3A, Marshland 3A, in Manomet.

The restaurant serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner and caters to both a local

and visiting clientele. Their most popular dishes include the stuffed quahogs, clam

chowder, and the Ultimate Chicken sandwich, Babiarz said. “It’s a great place to stop Continued on page 13

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Powder-striped ornaments made by glassblower Alex Kilker at the Sandwich Glass Museum. FILE PHOTO

Continued from page 12 and have a bite to eat.” Another historical spot in Sandwich is Heritage Museums and Gardens, which offers a number of botanical gardens and exhibits for visitors to explore. The attraction will open for the season April 16. “I like to think of Heritage as a museum of summer,” said President Ellen Spear. “It has a slowed-down state of mind for all generations.” In addition to its collection of antique cars and other permanent exhibits, Heritage will also be adding some new features this season. The “Costume and Cinema” exhibit will showcase costumes and information

about 40 different films while the outdoor exhibit, “Natural Threads,” will feature 10 contemporary sculptures. And for the daring, Heritage has opened an aerial adventure park with ziplines and ropes courses. “In this day and age there are so few opportunities to unplug from devices,” Spear said, “and visiting Heritage is a chance to do just that.” Sometimes referred to as "the town that glass built," the town of Sandwich can trace its commercial roots to the early 19th century, Continued on page 14

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Youngsters leap off the Sandwich boardwalk on a hot summer day. CAPE COD TIMES FILE

Continued from page 13 when the glass-blowing industry set up shop. It celebrates this long history at the Sandwich Glass Museum via its permanent exhibits, and also the future, as it continually updates its shows and events with work from modern artists. For lovers of nature and the outdoors, the Green Briar Nature Center and Jam Kitchen provides an extensive education including natural history programs, walking trails, gallery exhibits, live animal encounters and a wildflower garden. The jam kitchen also lets viewers see the process of making small batches of jams, jellies and preserves, and hosts

jam-making workshops. The Cape Cod Canal Visitor Center also houses interactive exhibits and experiences that give insight into the history and operation of the canal, including a virtual boat ride through the canal, live radar and camera images, and a real retired U.S. Army Corps of Engineers patrol boat that can be boarded and explored. The visitor center sits just down the street from the Sandwich Marina and the canal, where many accessible vantage points allow for good views of sailboats and commercial vessels cruising by.

Cranberry sauce chockfull of berries is made at Green Briar Jam Kitchen. CAPE COD TIMES FILE

For lovers of nature and the outdoors, the Green Briar Nature Center and Jam Kitchen provides an extensive education including natural history programs, walking trails, gallery exhibits, live animal encounters and a wildﬂower garden.

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BARNSTABLE

Cape’s largest town boasts 7 unique villages By Rachael Devaney Contributing writer

The town of Barnstable — 76-square miles between Nantucket Sound and Cape Cod Bay — is made up of seven villages, each with its own unique characteristics and charm. Each village counts as a hidden gem in this town! HYANNIS

Hyannis known for its variety of beaches, including Kalmus Beach, which attracts national surfers and windsurfers because of its strong off-shore breeze; Veterans Beach which features the John F. Kennedy and the Korean War Memorial, as well as a playground and picnic area; and Sea Street Beach, which overlooks the Kennedy Compound, Lewis Bay, and Nantucket Sound. It’s also known, howver, for its many cultural fairs and historical exhibits at locations such as the Hyannis Public Library, the JFK Hyannis Museum, and the Zion Union Heritage Museum. Hyannis is a hub of activity centered on Main Street. The strip, which features roughly 100 local and commercial establishments, includes outdoor cafes, Indian, Italian, Mexican and traditional seafood restaurants, salons, museums, a carousel and arcade, clothing and retail stores, Kandy Korner penny candy and gift shop, as well as convenience stores, and a regional transportation center. For those that are looking to engage in water sports and sea travel — beyond the beach — there are whale watch tours with companies like Hyannis Whale Watcher Cruises; ferry rides that take locals and visitors back and forth to Continued on page 16

Crowds cool off at Kalmus Beach in Hyannis. CAPE COD TIMES FILE

A perfect day for paddling the calm waters of Cotuit Bay. STEVE HEASLIP/

A young pirate leads the charge up Main Street, Hyannis, on a scavenger hunt during the Pillage the Village pirate activities hosted by the Cape Cod Children’s Museum and Cape Cod Maritime Museum. STEVE HEASLIP/CAPE

CAPE COD TIMES FILE

COD TIMES FILE

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Continued from page 15 Martha’s Vineyard and Nantucket; Hyannis land and sea tours with Cape Cod Duckmobile; and sailboat and pirate-themed trips with Catboat Rides and the Sea Gypsy. Artist shanties dot Ocean Street overlooking Hyannis Harbor. Passers-by can view art in its many media — paintings, sculpture, jewelry, woodworking, textile, pottery, and photographs — as they watch these artists at work on their craft. Because Hyannis Harbor is an active, working waterfront, Melissa Hersh, the arts and culture coordinator for Barnstable’s Growth Management Department, feels it’s the perfect environment for working artists and visitors. “In the heart of downtown Hyannis, the HyArts Cultural District includes a concentration of cultural attractions including museums, performing arts space, studios, galleries and locally owned shops and restaurants, which all create a tremendous synergy in this unique downtown setting,” Hersh said. “It is quite an opportunity for exposure for the artists and a wonderful backdrop for visitors — locals and travelers alike — and (we hope) more people will stop and spend more time not only at the artist shanties, but in downtown Hyannis and in the Hyannis HyArts Cultural District.” CENTERVILLE

For those who want to remain close to the hustle and bustle of Hyannis, but are looking for a small-town feel, Centerville is the place to be. The seaside town has a spectrum of beaches including Craigville Beach, a favorite of the younger crowd. The beach, which has been featured on MTV travel segments, includes

A kiteboarder heads into Kalmus Beach after spending some time on the water. MERRILY CASSIDY/CAPE COD TIMES FILE

outdoor showers, multiple seafood snack bars, Craigville Pizza, and miles of sandy shores and beautiful views. The area is also home to Covell Beach, which not only enjoys many of the same amenities as Craigville Beach, but offers privacy and seclusion because of its resident-only status. While the beaches along Craigville Beach Road offer gorgeous sunsets and beautiful views of Martha’s Vineyard, one Centerville stunner is Long Beach, which is largely hidden from sight. The public beach, which can be reached only by braving a wooden walk and railway, is located just west of Craigville Beach between a salt marsh, the warm Centerville bay waters, and the open ocean. Because dunes, beach plums,

and sea grass rise above the inlet, visitors often need a local guide to get to the abundance of fish, hermit crabs, clams, and quahogs, that hover just below the first layers of sand. Roughly a mile away, visitors can find the Centerville Playground, which will keep kids busy for hours with monkey bars, a series of slides, toddler-sized bridges, climbing apparatus and a baseball diamond. Farther up the hill is the legendary 1856 Country Store, a bright red barn-like gift shop and boutique, which sells locally made crafts, penny candy, and unique gift items. Just around the bend is the Centerville Public Library, which offers adult, senior, teen and toddler educational and reading programs, and supports civic, intellectual and cultural pursuits. The library, which just underwent significant architectural and expansion renovations, is also located next door to Four Seas Ice Cream, which has been attracting Cape residents, as well as people from around the world, since 1934. The blacksmith shop-turnedice-cream-store serves up the best old-fashioned ice cream sundaes, sodas, and frappes, as well as a fresh lobster salad sandwich that can rival the best restaurants on Cape Cod.

MARSTONS MILLS

Because the village of Marstons Mills is largely known as a quiet, rural area, featuring Mystic, Middle, and Hamblin ponds, people are often surprised that they have the opportunity to free-fall from 10,000 feet with Skydive Barnstable, located at Cape Cod Airfield. The business, which has been running since 2013, attracts daredevils from all over New England because of its extraordinary views of Cape Cod — from the plane, as well as from a mile high in the air. On the Skydive Barnstable website, Andrew Garcia, part-owner of the company, invites future patrons to “come jump with giants,” and says skydiving is “something special.” While Chanell Rose, a lifelong Marstons Mills resident, has never taken the plunge herself, she says she has often seen and heard the skydivers as they are hurtling toward the ground. “I can’t tell you how many times I have heard blood-curdling screams of the skydivers after they jump,” Rose said. “At first it’s startling but you can tell they are having an awesome time after a few minutes.” Because the experience will only take a few hours, people can also enjoy the 80 acres of open daisy-filled Continued on page 17

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A duckboat tests the waters of Hyannis Inner Harbor during a tour. STEVE HEASLIP/CAPE COD TIMES FILE

Continued from page 16 fields, three runways, two hangars, an old windmill, and the 21 private planes, including a Waco YMF-5 biplane, Beech 18, Seabee, and a number of antique taildraggers. Rose explained that the air field, which averages 75 flights per week and dates to 1920, also offers biplane rides and flight school, and says the area will literally stop traffic with its “magnificent sunsets. “Growing up I would go over there with my family or friends just to watch the sun set and the shooting stars and every single day when I drive by there now I always see a car stopped and people taking pictures because it is just that beautiful at dusk,” Rose said. “Right now there are antique planes on display and even though a lot of people don’t know it — there is so much to see and I love it there.” COTUIT

Because Cotuit is primarily residential, with several small beaches including Ropes Beach, Rileys Beach, Loop Beach and Oregon Beach, and is home to the Cotuit Kettleers of the Cape Cod Baseball League, visitors may be unaware of the extensive arts and cultural programming that is available in the area via the Cotuit Center for the Arts. Since 1993, the arts center has offered a variety of educational programs, performances and exhibitions, and has established itself as one of the biggest proponents of arts and culture in Barnstable. Jennifer Cummings, director of

development, calls Cotuit Center for the Ats a special place that offers people a safe space and community atmosphere to invest in the arts and gain social connections throughout the year. “There is this big misconception that there’s nothing to do in Cotuit Continued on page 18

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Continued from page 17 during the off-season but we are pumping out events surrounding theater, gallery, concerts, film, community classes, and special events almost every day,” Cummings said. “We really run the gamut and people love to come here because they can enjoy their many different interests together.” While the center will continue with ongoing programs like “Salon of Shorts,” and “Wine & Music Wednesdays,” as well as its 125 different arts classes, Cummings says the center will also collaborate with organizations throughout the area to present more than 40 concerts and special events, including its “Art and Souls Masquerade Ball,” “Entertainment Tonight!,” and the “Brazilian Cultural Festival.” “Everything we do whether it’s the play ‘Oklahoma’ or a summer concert, we try to put our stamp on it and make it new and fresh for our audiences,” Cummings said. “We also recently expanded our Black Box Theatre so we will really be able to invite the community to get involved and enjoy all the artistic talent Cape Cod has to offer right here in Cotuit.” WEST BARNSTABLE

West Barnstable, once at the heart of the Cape’s agricultural production, is now a residential and historic area that focuses heavily on conservation efforts in and around Sandy Neck Barrier Beach and the West Barnstable Conservation Area. Sandy Neck Beach Park features a front beach, sand dunes, historic dune shacks, maritime forests, freshwater wetland areas and salt marshes, as well as a network of trails where families can camp or explore with offroad vehicles. The park is sensitive to the needs of endangered species such as like the piping plover, and has makes many areas inaccessible to the public during nesting season. Those interested in local history visit the fully restored 1717 Congregational Meetinghouse, or The Old Village Store, which is a local favorite. For those seeking higher education, West Barnstable is home to Cape Cod Community College. The twoyear community college, which was founded in 1961, is part of a 15-school community college system in Massachusetts, and offers various associate degrees and academic

A tug of war unites young and old at the Barnstable-West Barnstable July Fourth celebration. STEVE HEASLIP/CAPE COD TIMES FILE

certificate programs, as well as access to on-campus bachelor’s and master’s degree programs in partnership with schools like Bridgewater State College, Boston University and Lesley University. But just because the college is well known throughout New England and beyond, many people aren’t aware of the extensive programming that runs throughout the year like its “Play with Your Food” series, which features new and different plays; “Afghan Women Writers Project,” which presents honors students as the read powerful essays, written by Afghan women out of Afghanistan; and the annual Multicultural Festival, which includes music and dance performances representing countries around the world as well as exhibitors, and vendors who showcase items unique to their cultures. For Communications Director Michael Gross, cultural programming, as well as the fostering of high school and college students, remains the goal of the college as it moves forward in its consistent educational missions. “The fact is, there are many new and different ways for students to excel here at the community college. Not only are we inviting high school students to take college classes

for credit, we are also sending our professors to all the high schools on the Cape to train and teach classes so that everyone can get a feel for what school will be like on the college level,” Gross said. “Through our many cultural events and informative activities we are also showing students what the world has to offer and how the outside communities can impact them in positive ways. We want to make the most out of everyone’s financial investments and encourage our kids, as well as our adult students to continue learning from each other and people around the globe.”

history of both establishments has been preserved in oral and video form in special events, lectures, summer programming, and workshops. The Barnstable Comedy Club, one of the oldest and longest-running community theater in Massachusetts, sits in the heart of Barnstable Village. The comedy club produces four main shows per season, including musicals and plays, as well as events such as during the annual Barnstable Village Stroll, where community theater actors conduct staged readings and acting and directing workshops. OSTERVILLE

BARNSTABLE VILLAGE

Barnstable Village is noted for its significant historic preservation efforts, particularly in the case of the Olde Colonial Courthouse, built in 1774, and the Sturgis Library, built in 1644. Not only are both of the buildings among the oldest structures on the Cape, they are some of the oldest Colonial buildings in the country. Sturgis Library’s Lothrop Room, an area once used for public worship, makes the library the oldest structure still standing in America where religious services were regularly held. Through organizations such as the nonprofit Tales of Cape Cod, the

Osterville is known for Dowses Beach, a large peninsula beach that offers a gorgeous view and lots of room. Walk all the way to the end to get to rock jetties or sit on the viewing dock to relax and watch the ocean. Osterville is also known for Armstrong-Kelly Park, where people can bike, jog or walk through hydrangea-lined streets in season. The village, located on the south side of Barnstable on Nantucket Sound, is surrounded by marshes, bays, ponds, lakes, as well as a popular business district that includes Continued on page 19

Saturday, March 26, 2016 | Cape Cod Town by Town 19

Continued from page 18 unique boutiques, gift shops, and antiques stores, as well as a Post Office, real estate business and churches. And while many can shop the day away, many like to find out more about the area at the Osterville Village Library, which features events, community resources and literacy programs; or the Osterville Historical Society Museum, which was once the Captain Jonathan Parker House, built in 1824. The museum schedules special exhibits that change with the seasons, and has seven rooms of historical maps, 18thand 19th-century furniture, and art and ceramics. Osterville is also rich in culinary delights, with restaurants such as Wimpy’s Seafood Cafe and Market, which was once a small hamburger counter in 1938. The popular spot, which has both a sit-down and takeout area, and fireside dining, features some of the best seafood dishes on the Cape, while the market, offers fresh fish, desserts, and a soup bar for those that are on their way for a shopping excursion or on their way to picnic at the beach. Francis Larusso, a Boston resident who often visits Wimpy’s during

family visits on the Cape, says he loves to hit the beach, take a few jumps off the Centerville River Bridge and head to Wimpy’s for some of his favorite seafood. “I absolutely love meeting friends and family there and it always completes my trip to the Cape,” Larusso says. “It’s also centrally located so I can just drive though on my way into the shopping district and just stop and grab a bite.” Other local favorites are Earthly Delights, featuring “natural foods to-go”; Five Bays Bistro, which offers American modern yet classic cuisine; and The Islander at Crosby Boat Yard where visitors can leisurely grab a drink on the deck, and admire the view. “When you can sit down somewhere and you are right on the waterfront, it just makes you feel good and feel completely relaxed while enjoying the company of those you love,” Larusso said. “What’s better than amazing chowder, or even a New York strip steak while enjoying a harborside view. It’s definitely worth it to drive into Osterville and find out about the diverse amount of foods that the town has to offer.”

Cherry blossoms bloom in front of Federated Church on Main Street in Hyannis. MERRILY CASSIDY/CAPE COD TIMES FILE

20 Saturday, March 26, 2016 | Cape Cod Town by Town

YARMOUTH

Seafaring history, cultural delights, fun in the sun By Rachael Devaney Contributing writer

Like all towns on Cape Cod, Yarmouth has a rich history to match its spectacular coastlines. The 17-square-mile town has three distinctive villages — West Yarmouth, Yarmouth Port and South Yarmouth — which, combined, feature 15 beaches; a range of restaurant options including traditional Irish fare at the Keltic Kitchen and seafood favorites like Captain Parker’s in West Yarmouth; and annual events such as the Yarmouth Summer Celebration Kick Off, featuring fireworks, a saltwater fishing clinic and derby, an ice cream social, summer beach barbecue, beach fun run, Cape Cod Baseball League games, and nature walks by Cape Cod Bay. And while each village features a range of activities throughout the year, there are also must-see iconic landmarks. The Judah Baker Windmill, for example, attracts hundreds of visitors to South Yarmouth because of its history as well as the small swimming beach on Bass River, where families can take in views of the salt marsh and open harbor area. The windmill, which was originally used by Captain Braddock Matthews and remained operational until 1891, was restored by the town of Yarmouth in 1999 and allows visitors to take in the mill, which was once a common site to see throughout the Cape Cod area. Another notable location that many students, visitors, and locals explore is the Captain Bangs Hallet House Museum, which was built in Yarmouth Port by the Thacher family in 1840. The museum, which was once home to Bangs Hallet, a

Young golfers plan their putting on Blackbeard’s Course at Pirate’s Cove miniature golf course. CAPE COD TIMES FILE

Hidden Gem: Edward Gorey House

The Edward Gorey House at 8 Strawberry Lane, off Route 6A, in Yarmouth Port was previously owned and lived in by the late artist, author, playwright, and set and costume designer. The house celebrates and preserves his life and quirky, often macabre work, and honors Gorey’s passion and concern for animals.

well known sea captain, is the only one of its kind open to the public, according to its website, and features a glimpse into Hallet’s 19th-century family life and the gifts of silk fabric, toys, porcelain, lacquered pieces, and teas that he brought home from his travels to China and beyond. Throughout the spring, summer and fall, historians lead tours through the

gentleman’s study, a refurbished dining room, the original basement, an 18th-century kitchen, and the Maritime Room where artist Axel William Torgerson’s oil painting of the clipper ship The Red Jacket hang. The artifacts, marine paintings, ship models and antique navigational equipment Continued on page 21

The slides at the Cape Cod Inflatable Park in West Yarmouth are definitely a hit with the younger crowd. MERRILY CASSIDY/CAPE COD TIMES FILE

Saturday, March 26, 2016 | Cape Cod Town by Town 21

Beachgoers enjoy the weather and the sparkling waters off Sea Gull Beach. STEVE HEASLIP/CAPE COD TIMES FILE

Continued from page 20 tell tales of Hallet’s sea adventures, which offer families an intimate look at a Cape Cod sea captain’s life. Along with a taste of history, Yarmouth locals and visitors can enjoy a range of family attractions such as Pirate’s Cove — the Original Adventure Golf, which features 18 holes of miniature golf that wind through caves, footbridges, cascading waterfalls and streams, as well as pirate-themed props including a lifesized model of a shipwreck. The 30-year-old miniature golf course, which also includes a Pirate’s Cove merchandise shop with a snack bar and arcade, is based on the adventures of pirates of legend and 18th-century buccaneers and is a rainy-day alternative to the beach or

a family activity that can keep kids entertained for hours. Other adventure destinations throughout Yarmouth include the Cape Cod Inflatable Park, where children can be seen climbing, and thriving through the water rides, slides, inflatable rides, and the arcade. The establishment, which also features a toddler zone, cabana rentals, a Shark Bite Cafe, birthday party rooms, and a gift shop, has the ability to keep kids busy with jump houses, miniature golf options, and batting cages. For those looking for arts and culture, South Yarmouth is the home to the Cape Cod Cultural Center, which offers instruction, entertainment, and exhibition in the visual, literary, and performing arts

throughout the year. The community-based nonprofit group, which also offers educational programs for children and adults, strives to foster creativity and

passion throughout the Cape area and features local artists, as well as nationally known musicians and Continued on page 22

22 Saturday, March 26, 2016 | Cape Cod Town by Town

The sun casts a shadow through the Judah Baker Windmill on a summer day along Bass River. STEVE HEASLIP/CAPE COD TIMES FILE

Continued from page 21 performers through a range of events including concerts, teach-ins and workshops. In addition to the center’s range of activities, arts enthusiasts can enjoy the fall foliage while visiting the annual Yarmouth Seaside Festival in October. The two-day event, which features 125 arts and crafts vendors from all over the country, includes musical entertainment, children’s events, a communitywide bonfire, canoe and kayak race, fireworks, a road race, and a sand sculpting competition. Many residents describe the

festival, which was founded in 1978, as a way to celebrate and foster community spirit and pride in Yarmouth. And while many of the locals wait for the summer season to wind down to visit the busy beaches, many community members frequent Grays Beach — a little-known Yarmouth Port seaside escape that’s open to the public regardless of the season. The sandy shore, which is sometimes called Bass Beach, is a Continued on page 23

Saturday, March 26, 2016 | Cape Cod Town by Town 23

A sandy version of Captain Hook stands guard at Bass River Beach in South Yarmouth. STEVE HEASLIP/CAPE COD TIMES FILE

Continued from page 22 townwide favorite because of its newly renovated playground, a boardwalk which stretches over lush green salt marshes and ponds, its picnic and barbecue area, as well as its access to kayaking and canoeing. Jenn Rose, a Dennis resident, explained that she grew up frequenting the secluded area with her school classes, as well as her family. “Grays has a wonderful beach atmosphere and attracts many different types of people. I’ve been going there since I was 9 — first as a student studying marine life, and even as an adult as a guest at a wedding,” Rose said. “I have so many memories both as a kid and as a mother now to my own children.” Rose, who works as a community

health center human resources and payroll coordinator in Hyannis, says during the summer she tries to bring her children to Grays Beach at least once a week during the summer for some fun in the sun. “My kids are constantly entertained,” Rose said. “If they aren’t running around the playground, or helping me get lunch ready in the barbecue area, they are swimming and chasing the tadpoles, water creatures, or sea birds through the beach and the shallow marsh lands.” “It’s a spot where you can sit in seclusion and watch the sun rise or set, and a place where you can relax and admire the ocean and the view,” she said. “It’s not just a beach and recreation area, it’s a place of memories.”

Santa and his helpers give a big wave during a group photo shoot as part of the annual Northeast Santa Cape Cod Celebration in South Yarmouth. STEVE HEASLIP/CAPE COD TIMES PHOTO

24 Saturday, March 26, 2016 | Cape Cod Town by Town

PROVINCETOWN TRURO 6

WELLFLEET

EASTHAM 3

CAPE COD BAY

ORLEANS

BREWSTER

DENNIS

SANDWICH BOURNE 28

BARNSTABLE

YARMOUTH

HARWICH

CHATHAM

BUZZARDS BAY

MASHPEE FALMOUTH

NANTUCKET SOUND

HY AN NI S

K OA

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MARTHA’S VINEYARD

Source: maps4news.com/©HERE FRED MATAMOROS/GATEHOUSE MEDIA

H A R WICH - NANT UCKET

OAK BLU FFS - NA NTU CKE T

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S UFF BL AK

LE EN HO V S D HA

WOO DS HO VINWOO LE -O EY D AR

ATLANTIC OCEAN

NANTUCKET

5 miles

Saturday, March 26, 2016 | Cape Cod Town by Town 25

TOWN BY TOWN DATA BARNSTABLE Population: 44,750 Number of school-age children (5-17): 5,879 Median home value: $341,100 Median age: 47.9 Town Hall: 508-862-4000

DENNIS Population: 14,113 Number of school-age children (5-17): 1,298 Median home value: $360,800 Median age: 55.2 Town Hall: 508-394-8300

MASHPEE Population: 13,988 Number of school-age children (5-17): 1,942 Median home value: $321,900 Median age: 50.5 Town Hall: 508-539-1400

TRURO Population: 1,738 Number of school-age children (5-17): 131 Median home value: $539,300 Median age: 57.6 Town Hall: 508-349-7004

BOURNE

BREWSTER

Population: 19,749 Number of school-age children (5-17): 2,704 Median home value: $337,100 Median age: 47.7 Town Hall: 508-759-0600

Population: 9,858 Number of school-age children (5-17): 1,279 Median home value: $440,500 Median age: 54.7 Town Hall: 508-896-3701

Population: 6,129 Number of school-age children (5-17): 662 Median home value: $541,800 Median age: 57.4 Town Hall: 508-945-5100

FALMOUTH

HARWICH

EASTHAM Population: 4,932 Number of school-age children (5-17): 305 Median home value: $454,900 Median age: 56.6 Town Hall: 508-240-5900

ORLEANS Population: 5,874 Number of school-age children (5-17): 364 Median home value: $535,000 Median age: 62 Town Hall: 508-240-3700

WELLFLEET Population: 3,011 Number of school-age children (5-17): 224 Median home value: $529,000 Median age: 62.2 Town Hall: 508-349-0300Â

Population: 31,576 Number of school-age children (5-17): 4,440 Median home value: $379,100 Median age: 51.6 Town Hall: 508-548-7611

PROVINCETOWN Population: 2,959 Number of school-age children (5-17): 66 Median home value: $470,700 Median age: 54.3 Town Hall: 508-487-7000

CHATHAM

Population: 12,205 Number of school-age children (5-17): 1,381 Median home value: $367,600 Median age: 50.9 Town Hall: 508-430-7514

SANDWICH Population: 20,605 Number of school-age children (5-17): 3,665 Median home value: $348,400 Median age: 45.3 Town Hall: 508-888-5144

YARMOUTH Population: 23,680 Number of school-age children (5-17): 2,522 Median home value: $296,400 Median age: 51.5 Town Hall: 508-398-2231

SOURCE: Barnstable County Commission 2014 estimates; www.statscapecod.org

26 Saturday, March 26, 2016 | Cape Cod Town by Town

CAPE COD: A beach for everyone CAPE COD TIMES

Do you want to go to the beach? Cape Cod has well over 100 choices to be by or on the water, depending on which part of the Cape you live in. Do you want the ocean? Bay side or Atlantic side? Do you prefer a freshwater pond? Pull up a chair or a towel, grab the umbrella, and discover your favorite. (Warning: Some require a resident sticker in season.) BOURNE Saltwater: Barlows Landing

Beach, off Route 28; Gray Gables Beach, Gilder Road; Monument Beach, Shore Road; Sagamore Beach, Standish Road; Electric Avenue Beach, Electric Avenue, Buzzards Bay; Hen Cove, Circuit Street; Queen Sewell Beach, Cherry Street Freshwater: Picture Lake, Old County Road SANDWICH Saltwater: Horizons Beach,

Town Neck Road; East Sandwich, North Shore Boulevard; Town Neck Beach, Town Neck Road; Scusset Beach State Reservation, Scusset Beach Road; Sandy Neck Beach, Sandy Neck Road Freshwater: Peters Pond, Sandy Neck Road; Wakeby Lake, South Sandwich Road; Snake Pond, Snake Pond Road FALMOUTH Saltwater: Bristol Beach,

Menauhant Road; Chapoquoit Beach, Chapoquoit Road; Surf Drive Beach, Surf Drive Road; Falmouth Heights Beach, Grand and Central Park avenues; Megansett Beach, County Road; Menauhant Beach, Menauhant Road; Old Silver Beach, Quaker Road; Wood Neck Beach, Woodneck Road, off Sippewissett Road; Stoney Beach, Gosnold Road, Woods Hole Freshwater: Grews Pond, Goodwill Park, off Gifford Street

Maguire Landing Beach, also known as LeCount Hollow Beach, in Wellfleet. MERRILY CASSIDY/CAPE COD TIMES FILE

MASHPEE Saltwater: South Cape, Great

Oak Road Freshwater: Attaquin Park Beach, Lake Avenue; John's Pond, Back Road BARNSTABLE Saltwater: Covell Beach,

Craigville Beach Road, Centerville; Craigville Beach, Craigville Beach Road, Centerville; Dowses Beach, 348 E. Bay Road, Osterville; Keys (Sea Street) Beach, 175 Ocean Ave., Hyannis; Eugenia Fortes (East), Iyanough Avenue off Marstons Avenue, Hyannis Port; Veterans Beach, 480 Ocean St., Hyannis; Kalmus Beach, 670 Ocean St., Hyannis; Long Beach, Long Beach Road, Centerville; Loop Beach, Ocean View Avenue, Cotuit; Millway Beach, Phinney's Lane, Barnstable; Sandy Neck Beach, Sandy Neck Road, West Barnstable

Freshwater: Hathaway's Pond, Phinney's Lane, Barnstable; Lovells Pond, SantuitNewtown Road, Cotuit; Hamblin Pond, Route 149, Marstons Mills; Wequaquet Lake, Shootflying Hill Road, Centerville; Joshua Pond, Tower Hill Road, Osterville YARMOUTH Saltwater: Beachwood (Parkers

River) Beach, Beachwood Road and South Shore Drive, South Yarmouth; Seaview Beach, Parkwood Road and South Shore Drive, South Yarmouth; South Middle Beach, South Shore Drive and Run Pond Road, South Yarmouth; Thachers Beach, South Shore Drive, off Sea View Avenue, South Yarmouth; Smugglers (Bass River) Beach, Bass River, South Shore Drive, South Yarmouth; Englewood Beach, Berry Avenue, West Yarmouth; Windmill, Bass River, River Street, Yarmouth; Grays (Bass

A young beachgoer examines one of the many horseshoe crab shells that washed ashore at South Cape Beach in Mashpee. RON SCHLOERB/CAPE COD TIMES FILE

Saturday, March 26, 2016 | Cape Cod Town by Town 27

Hole) Beach, Center Street, Yarmouth; Bay View Beach, Bay View Street, Yarmouth; Colonial Acres Beach, Standish Road, Yarmouth; Sea Gull Beach, Sea Gull Beach Road, Yarmouth; Wilbur Park, Bass River, High Bank Road, Yarmouth Freshwater: Dennis Pond, Summer Street; Flax Pond Beach, South Shore Drive; Little Sandy Pond, recreation area, Buck Island Road, West Yarmouth; Long Pond, Long Pond Drive DENNIS Cape Cod Bay (saltwater):

Bayview Beach, Bayview Road; Cold Storage, Cold Storage Road, East Dennis; Corporation Beach, Corporation Road; Chapin Memorial, Chapin Beach Road; Harborview Beach, Harbor Road; Howes Beach, Howes Street; Mayflower Beach, Dunes Road; Sea Street (East Dennis) Beach, Sea Street, East Dennis

Colorful umbrellas dot Covells Beach in Centerville. RON SCHLOERB/CAPE COD TIMES FILE

Nantucket Sound (saltwater):

Freshwater: Crystal Lake, Monument Road; Pilgrim Lake, Herring Brook Road

Sea Street Beach, Sea Street, Dennisport; West Dennis Beach, West Dennis Beach Road; Haigis Beach, Old Wharf Road; Inman Road, Inman Road; South Village Beach, South Village Road; Glendon Road Beach, Old Wharf Road; Raycroft Beach, Raycroft Parkway; Sea Street Beach, Sea Street, Dennis Port Freshwater: Princess Beach, Scargo Hill Road; Scargo Lake, Dr. Lord Road BREWSTER Saltwater: Breakwater Beach,

Breakwater Road; Crosby Landing, Crosby Lane; Ellis Landing Beach, Ellis Landing Road; Paines Creek, Paines Creek Road; Robbins Hill, Long Road Freshwater: (Big) Cliff Pond, Flax Pond and Little Cliff Pond, all on Flax Pond Road, Nickerson State Park, Route 6A; Sheep Pond, Fisherman's Landing Road; Upper Mill Pond, Old Run Hill Road (just boat ramp) HARWICH Nantucket Sound: Atlantic

Avenue Beach, Atlantic Avenue, off Ocean Avenue,

EASTHAM Cape Cod Bay (saltwater): Boat

Beachgoers leave Crosby Landing in Brewster after a day at the beach. RON SCHLOERB/CAPE COD TIMES FILE

Harwich Port; Bank Street Beach, Bank Street; Earle Road Beach, Earle Road; Grey Neck Beach, Grey Neck Road; Pleasant Road, Pleasant Road; Red River, Uncle Venie's Road, Harwich Port Freshwater: Fernandes Bog at Long Pond, Long Pond Road; Sand Pond, Great Western Road; Wixon Memorial Beach (on Long Pond), Cahoon Road CHATHAM

Nantucket Sound: Cockle Cove Beach, Taylors Pond Road, off Cockle Cove Road;

Forest Beach, Forest Beach Road; Harding Beach, Harding Beach Road; Pleasant Street Beach, Pleasant Street; Ridgevale Beach, Ridgevale Drive; South Beach, Shore Road by Chatham Light Freshwater: Schoolhouse Pond, Schoolhouse Pond Road; Oyster Pond, Stage Harbor Road and Kingsbury Way ORLEANS Saltwater: Nauset Beach, Beach

Road; South Orleans Beach, Pleasant Bay, Route 28; Skaket Beach, West Road

Meadow Beach, Bayview Road; Dyer Prince Beach, Dyer Prince Road; Campground Beach, Campground Road; Cooks Brook Beach, Steele Road; Kingsbury Beach, Kingsbury Road; Herring Brook Beach, Cole Road; First Encounter Beach, Samoset Road; Thumpertown Beach, Thumpertown Road; Sunken Meadow Beach, South Sunken Meadow Road Atlantic Ocean, Cape Cod National Seashore: Coast Guard, Nauset

Road (parking via shuttles at Little Creek Parking Area, Nauset Road); Nauset Light Beach, Cable Road Freshwater: Great Pond, Great Pond Road; Wiley Park, Great Pond, Herring Brook Road WELLFLEET Cape Cod Bay (saltwater): Duck

Harbor, Duck Harbor Road; Indian Neck Beach, Samoset Avenue; Mayo Beach, Kendrick Avenue; Powers Landing, off Chequessett Neck

Atlantic Ocean (saltwater):

Cahoon Hollow Beach, Cahoon Hollow Road; Lecount Hollow, Lecount Hollow Road; Newcomb Hollow, Gross Hill Road; Marconi Beach, Cape Cod National Seashore, Marconi Beach Road; White Crest Beach, Atlantic Ocean, Ocean View Drive Freshwater: Great Pond, Cahoon Hollow Road; Gull Pond, Schoolhouse Road; Long Pond Beach, Long Pond Road TRURO Cape Cod Bay (saltwater): Corn

Hill Beach, Corn Hill Road; Fisher Beach, Fisher Road; Great Hollow Beach, Great Hollow Road; Pond Village Beach, Pond Road; Ryder Beach, Ryder Beach Road Atlantic Ocean (saltwater):

Ballston, North Pamet Road; Long Nook Beach, Long Nook Road; Head of the Meadow, two beaches, Cape Cod National Seashore and town of Truro, Head of the Meadow Road PROVINCETOWN Cape Cod National Seashore:

Herring Cove Beach, Race Point Road; Race Point, Race Point Road

28 Saturday, March 26, 2016 | Cape Cod Town by Town

DENNIS

Town rich in maritime history, waterfront recreation By Eir Lindstrom-Holmy Contributing writer

The town of Dennis enjoys two coastlines, offering a choice of 16 ocean beaches divided between Cape Cod Bay and Nantucket Sound, as well as two freshwater beaches on Scargo Lake. The Mid-Cape town is composed of five villages, and if you imagine the shape of Dennis as an hourglass (for convenience more than accuracy) you will find Dennis Village and East Dennis to the north, South Dennis in the center, and West Dennis and Dennis Port to the south. Dennis is home to Sesuit Harbor, the Bass River and the smaller Swan River. The town’s central location makes it a convenient base for accessing the rest of the Cape and the mainland. Dennis was first settled by Europeans in the 17th century, and incorporated in 1793, when it was named for Josiah Dennis, who had been the town’s minister. Today, his 1736 saltbox home is the location of the Josiah Dennis Manse Museum, maintained by the Dennis Historical Society. In the 19th century, Dennis was an active maritime town, peopled by sea captains, merchants, sailors and whalers. Dennis was a leader in producing salt until 1888 when salt mines were opened New York. Approaching the 20th Century, commercial fishing and land-based activities became the mainstays of the local economy. Many buildings survive from the town’s nautical heyday including the 1801 Jericho Historical Center the 1867 West Dennis Graded Schoolhouse. Today, the Ezra H. Baker School serves students from prekindergarten

Corporation Beach had plenty of visitors on a Sunday afternoon. MERRILY CASSIDY/CAPE COD TIMES FILE

through third grade, and Dennis and neighboring Yarmouth together form the Dennis-Yarmouth Regional School District serving middle and high school students. The towns, separated by the Bass River, also share a Cape Cod Baseball League team, the Yarmouth-Dennis Red Sox. Water still plays a major role in town life, and the north side is home to many fine beaches, including Chapin Memorial Beach (where permit-holders can bring off-road vehicles), the scenic and popular

Mayflower Beach, and the quieter Cold Storage Beach. To the south, the 3-mile expanse of West Dennis beach offers a full-range of accessible amenities for children and adults, as well as extensive parking. The beach has recently become a popular spot for kitesurfing. All the beaches in Dennis are town-owned, and residents can purchase an annual beach sticker for $30. There are several yacht clubs in the town, including Dennis Yacht Club in Sesuit Harbor (which is also a great

place to charter a fishing boat in search of stripers) and the friendly rivals West Dennis Yacht Club and Bass River Yacht Club. The Bass River area is a good spot for locals and tourists to rent or bring paddleboards, Jet Skis, and kayaks. The 1902 Scargo tower — given to the town in 1929 by the Tobey Family — may not be very tall, but it sits atop one of the highest hills on the MidCape, offering views across Scargo Lake Continued on page 29

Hidden Gem: Cape Cinema Would you like to attend a live performance of The Metropolitan Opera’s stunning production of "The Magic Flute" in New York City? Or take off for Moscow to witness the Bolshoi Ballet’s new acclaimed version of "The Nutcracker"? Why not hop across the pond to London, and catch the National Theatre’s sizzling revival of "Dangerous Liaisons"? You can do just that — at around $20 a ticket — at Cape Cinema in Dennis. You no longer have to be a jet-setting 1-percenter to experience the crème-de-la-crème

of entertainment, with high culture at low prices, brought to you live in HD at Cape Cinemas in Dennis. And that’s not all. Whether it’s a carefully curated selection of acclaimed independent films you won’t find elsewhere on Cape, a live concert, or a panel event and screening run in conjunction with the Cape Cod Museum of Art, culture vultures will find something to love at Cape Cinemas, an unexpected delight concealed behind an old-world façade modeled after the Congregational Church in

Centerville. Step inside and you will ﬁnd an art deco auditorium, including a 6,400-square-foot ceiling mural designed by Rockwell Kent. One of the largest indoor murals in the U.S., Kent’s striking work is reminiscent of a more colorful version of the ceiling at grand central station, depicting lovers ﬂoating amid the constellations. The friendly venue also boasts the historical distinction of hosting the world premiere of "The Wizard of Oz."

Saturday, March 26, 2016 | Cape Cod Town by Town 29

Members of the Dennis-Yarmouth Chess Club meet at the Dennis Senior Center. CAPE COD TIMES FILE

Continued from page 28 and the bay. Seen from above, Scargo Lake appears roughly the shape of a fish, a resemblance which has been the source of much local folklore. A complex off Hope Lane is home to the Cape Cod Museum of Art, Cape Cinema and The Cape Playhouse, a summer theater formed in 1927 and listed by the Actors’ Equity Association as the oldest professional summer theater in America. The Playhouse has been host to some heavyweight stars over the years, and much of the audition and rehearsal process takes place in New York. Other cultural venues include the Eventide Theatre Company, and Entertainment Cinemas in South Dennis. Nature lovers will enjoy the town’s ample opportunities for hiking and cycling, with several conservation areas including Crowes Pasture, and the start of the 22-mile Cape Cod Rail Trail. Dennis has two 18-hole golf courses, Dennis Highlands and Dennis Pines, as well as an ice rink, the Tony Kent Arena. During the summer, outdoor concerts are offered on the village green, and there are various events including an annual sandcastle festival. Offering good options for both casual and fine dining, Dennis has several restaurants known for stunning waterfront views, including Chapin’s, the Marshside Restaurant

Scargo Tower, a 30-foot cobblestone structure, was built in 1901 by the Tobey Family and gifted to the town of Dennis in memory of Charles and Frances Bassett Tobey. CAPE COD TIMES FILE

and Ocean House. Foodies will also appreciate the gourmet treats at Ring Bros. Market, and various small farms, which sell produce directly to consumers in the summer. Dennis is also home to the newly formed Devil’s Purse Brewery, which offers an excellent array of locally brewed European-influenced craft beers, available for tasting and purchase within limited hours.

30 Saturday, March 26, 2016 | Cape Cod Town by Town

BREWSTER

Perfect place for hikers, historians and sea captains By Laurie Higgins Contributing Writer

A combination of factors and the efforts of some very dedicated people have made the town of Brewster a mecca for nature enthusiasts and those who love history of all kinds. In 1934, Brewster residents Addie Nickerson and her daughter Helen donated more than 1,700 acres to the state of Massachusetts for the creation of a state park. The park was created in memory of Addie’s son Roland C. Nickerson Jr. who died during the 1918 flu epidemic. Nickerson State Park now encompasses 1,900 acres in East Brewster. In addition to over 400 campsites, the park offers plenty of opportunities for day-trippers. There are eight freshwater kettle ponds, created as the glacier retreated from the Cape over 10,000 years ago. The three largest ponds offer opportunities for swimming and canoeing. Four of the ponds are stocked with trout each year for the pleasure of fishermen.

Daffodils add sparkle to a rainy day in front of First Parish Church in Brewster. STEVE HEASLIP/CAPE COD TIMES FILE

Hidden Gem: Brewster Historical Society Brewster Historical Society, which plans to open in their new expanded and renovated location at 739 Lower Road this summer. The Captain Elijah Cobb House was once the home of a prominent sea captain. Their collection reﬂects the rich history that gave Brewster the designation of “The Sea Captain’s Town.” They have a shipmaster’s galley, an exhibit on the China trade, numerous paintings of clipper ships and portraits of sea captains and their wives.

Bikers will enjoy the eight miles of paved trails inside the park that connect with the Cape Cod Rail Trail near the park’s entrance. There are four connecting paved walking trails inside the park as well as natural trails around five of the park’s ponds. Wildlife is abundant and includes foxes,

deer, raccoons, skunks, squirrels and birds. A map of the park can be found at the Park Ranger’s office. The Brewster Conservation Trust formed in 1983 to establish, preserve and manage open space for the town. In the years since, they have accrued over 1,050 acres of open space, which contributes to the rural character of the town. The trust has a published guide with maps of 11 trails that include the highlights of each trail. The maps are available at the Chamber of Commerce Information Center at Town Hall. Four of the properties in the Brewster Conservation Trust have walking trails on them, including the Eddy Sister’s Trail and the Eddy Bay Trail. Windmill Meadows near Drummer Boy Park has mowed paths through the meadow that include picnic tables for resting and outdoor dining. The fourth trail is a longer route through the woods just east of Nickerson State Park. The town-owned Punkhorn Parklands offers an additional 835 acres of woods with a large network of walking

trails that encompass several ponds, including Mill Pond, Seymour Pond and Calf Field Pond. Nature lovers will want to visit the Cape Cod Museum of Natural History, which has 80 acres of land and two popular walking trails. The 1.3 mile John Wing Trail leads to Wing’s Island, which has a beautiful barrier beach and features the tidal pools of Cape Cod Bay. The mile-long Lee Baldwin Trail meanders through a salt marsh bordering Stony Brook, where the herring run in huge numbers each spring. The museum’s exhibits include a geographic explanation of the formation of Cape Cod, information about the Wampanoag native tribe, a bird-watching room with an OspreyCam and an archaeology exhibit of the artifacts found over a 25 year long archaeologist dig on Wing’s Island. “It’s a fun place,” said museum director Bob Dwyer. “It’s Continued on page 31

Saturday, March 26, 2016 | Cape Cod Town by Town 31

Gulls crane their necks for a better view as they wait for a quick meal at the Stony Brook herring run. STEVE HEASLIP/CAPE COD TIMES FILE

Stony Brook Mill is reflected in the leaf-filled water. MERRILY CASSIDY/CAPE COD TIMES FILE

Continued from page 30 family-oriented but multigenerational as well.” A hidden gem you won’t want to miss is the Brewster Historical Society, which plans to open in their new expanded and renovated location at 739 Lower Road this summer. The Captain Elijah Cobb House was once the home of a prominent sea captain. Their collection reflects the rich history that gave Brewster the designation of “The Sea Captain’s Town.” They have a shipmaster’s galley, an exhibit on the China trade, numerous paintings of clipper ships and portraits

of sea captains and their wives. Cobb’s great granddaughter Caro Dugan also lived in the house. Dugan was a photographer and her collection of glass plate negatives of over 400 stunning black and white photographs of Brewster are now part of the Historical Society’s permanent collection. An additional exhibit called “The Faces of Brewster” can be seen at the Brewster Ladies' Library, where you can read both Captain Cobb and Caro Dugan’s journals. The Brewster Historical Society also runs two historical tours: the Sea Captain’s Tour and the Widow’s War Tour. Both include the option of a Sea Captain’s Tea at the Captain Freeman Inn.

Relaxing on a pleasure boat on Long Pond. CAPE COD TIMES FILE

A sea of umbrellas on a hot afternoon at Ellis Landing Beach in Brewster. STEVE HEASLIP/CAPE COD TIMES FILE

32 Saturday, March 26, 2016 | Cape Cod Town by Town

HARWICH

A town rich in history with a focus on nature, culture, fun By Haley Cote Contributing writer

The word idyllic can be used to describe countless locations on Cape Cod. But one premier destination in Harwich is particularly so. Its name means “crescent on the water,” and the views of the surrounding bay from Wequassett Resort and Golf Club are simply breathtaking. The resort, nestled within a 27-acre rise, features restaurants, pools, beaches, tennis courts and an 18-hole golf course. It was recently named a five-star hotel by Forbes Travel Guide, making it the first property on Cape Cod to receive the recognition. From this waterfront haven on its east side to the picturesque cranberry bogs of its north, Harwich is the epitome of a New England town. Located on the south side of the Cape — with an extensive shoreline on Nantucket Sound — the town of Harwich is rich in its offerings to residents and visitors alike. Among the many historic buildings in town, the stately Brooks Academy Museum stands out. Bright white with massive fluted columns, the museum, originally built as a private school in 1844, houses the Harwich Historical Society and features the Cape’s largest exhibit on cranberry cultivation. Cranberries have a long history in the town, so it’s no surprise that Harwich’s signature event is an annual Cranberry Festival. Taking place this year Sept. 17 and 18 in Brooks Park, the free festival features live music from local musicians and arts and crafts from 100-plus vendors. Brooks Park, located in Harwich Center, is also the site of Art in the Park — a weekly summer series sponsored by the Guild of Harwich Artists that features works

The fleet’s in at Wychmere Harbor on a Monday morning. MERRILY CASSIDY/CAPE COD TIMES FILE

Hidden Gem: Monahan & Co. Fine Jewelers Of all the sights to see in Harwich, the hidden gem that is Monahan & Co. Fine Jewelers just might be the most unique. On a summer’s day, the sounds of Pattie Page’s “Old Cape Cod’ can be heard playing outside the rustic, circa 1850 storefront of this quaint shop — tucked away on Main Street, Harwich Port, for over 30 years. Upon entering the store, patrons will discover more than just a plethora of one-of-a-kind jewelry: Hundreds of photographs, paintings, letters, images and trinkets cover the store’s walls and counters, each helping tell the tale of this business’s storied history — a history that all began 200 years ago in Worcester. Fifth-generation owner Michael Monahan will gladly guide visitors through this rich history — and with so much to see and hear, expect to ﬁnd yourself lost in this museum of a jewelry store for quite a while.

Riders have a blast at Bud’s Go-Karts in Harwich. STEVE HAINES/CAPE COD TIMES FILE

by local artists — as well as the TD Bank Monday Night Summer Concert Series — held at the park in July. (Music fans will also enjoy

the free Musical Stroll Nights, held in July and August, that feature a variety of local bands playing in various locations up and down Route 28 in

Harwich Port.) bogs, salt marshes and There is certainly no short- beaches. Golf enthusiasts: age of outdoor fun throughout The 18-hole Cranberry Valley Harwich year-round. Bikers: Golf Course was named The Cape Cod Rail Trail runs one of Golf Digest’s 50 Best for 25 miles through Harwich and six other Cape towns, passing along cranberry Continued on page 33

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Continued from page 32 Public Courses. Baseball fans: Catch Cape Cod Baseball League’s Harwich Mariners, league champions in 2011, at Whitehouse Field behind Harwich High School. Beachgoers: Red River Beach, the largest of Harwich’s 22 beaches, offers jetties for fishing and acres of sand to enjoy Nantucket Sound. And Beach Day takes place here in September, with fun activities for all. For those who enjoy being out on the water, the scenic Saquatucket Harbor is a full-service marina in Harwich Port for sailing as well as charter and sport fishing. For those who’d like to explore inland, roam the 250 acres of Bell’s Neck Conservation Lands. Buffering the Herring River — prime for canoeing — the Harwich Conservation Trust property offers walking and hiking trails, views of sweeping marshland, a herring run, birding, and fishing – there are even free guided nature walks through this preserved land and many of HCT’s Continued on page 34

Harwich cranberries pour through a sorting machine and into a truck to be transported to a processing facility. MERRILY CASSIDY/CAPE COD TIMES FILE

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Kayakers paddle down the Herring River in West Harwich. MERRILY CASSIDY/CAPE COD TIMES FILE

Continued from page 33 others. Family-friendly destinations and events abound in Harwich. The Cape Cod Theatre Company, Home of the Harwich Junior Theatre offers a wide range of plays – from “The Little Mermaid” to “Little Women” – workshops and educational programs for all ages. In Harwich Port, kids and kids at heart will have a blast at Bud’s Go Karts and Grand Slam Family Entertainment, which features bumper boats, batting cages and now ziplining. And then there’s the tradition of Christmas in Harwich, which includes the annual Tree Lighting and Family Carol Sing in Doane Park as well as the Harwich Port stroll. With so many great eateries to indulge at throughout town, Fooding Around Harwich is the perfect opportunity to unleash your inner foodie. On Saturday, May 14, this tasting tour by trolley will include stops at 400 East Restaurant and Bar, Cape Sea Grille, the Hot Stove Saloon and many more.

A tiny frog peeks out from among cranberries that were being harvested at the Jenkins family bog MERRILY CASSIDY/ CAPE COD TIMES FILE

Saturday, March 26, 2016 | Cape Cod Town by Town 35

CHATHAM

Coastal town a blend of sharks, seals, a rich maritime heritage By Kay Keough Contributing writer

While author Horace Greeley is often credited with the phrase “Go West, young man,” a 19th-century call to expand into the fertile farmland of the western United States, there is also land fertile with history, wildlife, special community gatherings and culture in Chatham, the most easterly point in the U.S. Chatham is “rich in its maritime heritage, as well as a spirited New England town with a variety of small businesses,” said Lisa Franz, executive director of the Chatham Chamber of Commerce. It “has a special blend of the past and present with quaint streets lined with historic sea captains' homes, a fine selection of historic museums, and a walking downtown area with unique shops, galleries, and restaurants,” she adds. History buffs can indulge their curiosity about the town’s roots at the Caleb Nickerson House, the 1827 homestead of a descendant of the town’s founder, William Nickerson.

Hidden Gem: Friday Night band concerts The free summer concerts on Friday nights at Kate Gould Park are a tradition dating back to the late 1940s. Members of the uniformed 40-piece band play swing, jazz, and patriotic tunes for concertgoers who bring blankets and folding chairs to enjoy the summer music.

The house serves as a “Museum of Lost Arts,” which hosts events like garden cleanup and bed preparation and beehive oven baking. The Atwood House Museum, built circa 1752 by Chatham sea captain Joseph Atwood, features historical artifacts, an 18th-century herb garden and a rare working lantern house. Hundreds of exhibits as well as the New York Central model locomotives used at the 1939 New York World’s Fair are on display at Chatham Railroad Museum, a restored 1887

Stage Harbor Light overlooks a mild day for working on the water. STEVE HEASLIP/CAPE COD TIMES FILE

railroad depot. And the origins of wireless communications are in focus at the Chatham Marconi Maritime Center, with all the original buildings where inventor Guglielmo Marconi did

his work. Standing tall as one of the last two windmills of the original 11 in town, and the only one open to the public, Godfrey Windmill is open for guided tours from late June to early September,

and on specified dates is a sight to see as it’s set in motion to grind corn. Beautiful views can also be had in Wednesday Continued on page 36

Two beachgoers relax in the sun of a perfect day on Lighthouse Beach. STEVE HEASLIP/ CAPE COD TIMES FILE

36 Saturday, March 26, 2016 | Cape Cod Town by Town

Continued from page 35 tours May through September at Chatham Light, the 48-foot, castiron lighthouse and active Coast Guard station. Franz urges nature lovers to visit Chatham for its abundant opportunities to observe harbor and gray seals, whether by yourself or on a tour. The seals can be found on “rock piles, ledges, sand bars, and jetties exposed during low tide around the Chatham shoals from North Beach breakthrough to South Beach and Monomoy,” she says, and also resting on isolated beaches, in marshes, and on floating docks. Newswatchers know that the presence of a large seal population has drawn great white sharks, which are explored in the Chatham Shark Center exhibit. The exhibit has videos and displays, a virtual shark tank and a realtime shark tracker. And birders flock to Chatham, where the Monomoy Wildlife Sanctuary provides nesting, feeding, and resting grounds for 285 species. For arts fans, the Chatham Orpheum Theater screens a variety of films and hosts special events, and the Chatham Drama Guild and Monomoy Theatre stage full lineups of live shows. For families who enjoy celebrating holidays with the community, there is no shortage of ways to do so. Among its festivities, the Chatham Merchants Association hosts: Paint the Town Chocolate, a three-day event with shopping and dining discounts, and the Hangar Dance, an old-fashioned canteen dance, for Valentine’s Day; an Easter egg hunt; the epic 4th of July parade, which draws up to 20,000 people; Oktoberfest and its Pumpkin People in the Park, creative displays by local businesses for Halloween; Christmas by the Sea, with the Christmas Stroll and Santa’s arrival by Coast Guard cutter; and Chatham First Night, a family friendly, alcohol-free celebration of the arts with more than 70 performances and events. Other special events include Sharks in the Park and Seals in the Shops, featuring shark sculptures in Kate Gould Park and seal sculptures in local shops; and Honoring All Who Served, when local lodging businesses give away rooms to veterans who enter to win the rooms over the Veteran's Day weekend. Local retail and restaurants offer discounts as well.

Gray seals study a research ship anchored a half-mile off South Monomoy Island. STEVE HEASLIP/CAPE COD TIMES FILE

A historic 44-foot motor life boat is on display at the Chatham Coast Guard Station. STEVE HEASLIP/CAPE COD TIMES FILE

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38 Saturday, March 26, 2016 | Cape Cod Town by Town

ORLEANS

A perfect blend of culture and nature By Laurie Higgins Contributing writer

The town of Orleans is a central hub for the Lower Cape, with its multiple shops, boutiques, food markets and restaurants at various parts of town. The town at the “elbow” of the Cape has also long been a destination for lovers of the arts, which is why the Massachusetts Cultural Council designated the town as one of its official cultural districts in May 2013. The Orleans Village Center Cultural District is a walkable treasure trove of wonders, where art meets history in vibrant ways. With over a dozen art galleries in town, there is something for every taste, including sculpture, photography, tiles, stained glass, handcrafted jewelry and paintings in every medium. Many of the galleries feature an opportunity to talk directly with the artists about their work. Theater aficionados will be happy to explore the works at the two different theaters in town: the Academy of Performing Art Playhouse and the Elements Theatre Company. The Academy attracts over 21,000 people to the more than a dozen shows produced there each year. The theater is known for its diversity and produces musicals, dramas, comedies and original works. Elements Theatre produces both classic and modern works that explore the breadth of human experience — both positive and negative. Orleans also offers many opportunities to hear music. At Snow Library, there is a Saturday winter series of music sponsored by the Rowena Meyers Trust. During the summer, the Friends of Snow Library offers a series of free concerts on the Orleans Village Green at 6 p.m. every Wednesday. Bring a picnic supper and beach chairs and relax to a wide variety of music including acoustic, jazz, blues, folk, swing and blue grass. Check the Snow Library website for performers. In the event of rain, the concert will be moved into the Marion Craine Room at the library. More music can be found on the gazebo at Nauset Beach with free concerts on Monday and SEE ORLEANS, 40

A morning sail on Town Cove in Orleans. STEVE HEASLIP/CAPE COD TIMES FILE

The Southern Comfort heads out of Rock Harbor. MERRILY CASSIDY/CAPE COD TIMES FILE

Saturday, March 26, 2016 | Cape Cod Town by Town 39

Hidden Gem: Kent’s Point The 27.7-acre Kent’s Point property on Frost Fish Lane in East Orleans — long popular with dog walkers — has a 1.1 mile series of connecting trails. It has benches, picnic sites, observation platforms, handicapped-accessible boardwalk and a handicapped-access ramp to the beach. Because of its peninsula shape and undeveloped shoreline, it offers panoramic views of Lonnie’s Pond, Little Pleasant Bay and Frost Fish Cove, a popular winter haven for great blue herons and other shorebirds.

Young parade-watchers cheer during July 4 festivities. MERRILY CASSIDY/CAPE COD TIMES FILE

40 Saturday, March 26, 2016 | Cape Cod Town by Town

Conductor Jung-Ho Pak directs the Cape Symphony during the 25th anniversary of the Cape Cod Five Pops in the Park at Eldredge Park in Orleans. STEVE HAINES/CAPE COD TIMES FILE

A young surfer gets some help from her dad during a morning outing at Rock Harbor Beach. STEVE HEASLIP/CAPE COD TIMES FILE

ORLEANS From Page 38

Thursday nights. Cape Cod Five Cents Savings Bank sponsors a popular Pops in the Park concert each summer for those who love classical music. In the spring and autumn, there is a weekend jazz festival called New Orleans to Orleans at the Nauset Regional Middle School. Autumn also brings a ukulele cabaret with

classes and performances. History buffs will want to visit the French Cable Station Museum, where they can see a historic collection of original Atlantic undersea memorabilia. The station was the American termination point for a telegraph cable that went from Orleans to France that was installed in 1898. It was almost

3,200 miles long and has a long and interesting history. Down at Rock Harbor, a large fleet of charter boats takes visitors out fishing for bluefish, striped bass and tuna. It is also a spectacular place to catch a sunset and it’s not unusual to see many photographers gathered there on summer nights. With both an ocean beach and a

bay beach, Orleans offers plenty of opportunities to swim or just take a walk. For those who prefer freshwater beaches, Pilgrim Lake and Crystal Lake offer sandy shores and picnic areas. Hikers will enjoy the trails in the Orleans Conservation Trust’s 12 unique conservation areas.

Saturday, March 26, 2016 | Cape Cod Town by Town 41

EASTHAM

Seashore gateway known for nature, beaches, the beloved turnip Cape Cod Times

Eastham is a quiet town bordered on two sides by land and the other two by water, offering spectacular views of Cape Cod Bay and the Atlantic Ocean as well as several ocean and bay beaches, kettle ponds, marshes and bogs and lots of open space for hiking, kayaking, and enjoying nature. The town was originally called Nauset, home to the Nauset Indians, and in 1651, was incorporated by a group of Pilgrims who settled here and changed the town's name to Eastham. Eastham’s First Encounter Beach was named for its historic significance as the site of the first encounter between Native Americans and the Pilgrims before they settled in Plymouth. First Encounter shares similar attributes to other bay beaches — calm, warm water, a panoramic view of Cape Cod Bay, expansive flats at low tide and low sand dunes. Eastham is the gateway to the Cape Cod National Seashore, with the Salt Pond Visitor Center on Nauset Road as its main facility. Here you’ll find a bookstore, museum, and an indoor theater that offers short films daily on a rotating schedule. Cape Cod's glacial history is laid out in a topographical map in the visitor center lobby, as is a section that interprets Wampanoag culture and history through artifacts, photographs and art, a partial wetu and oral histories. The museum also includes exhibits and information on whaling, lifesaving and lighthouses, maritime industries and agricultural life. Several other historical spots of interest include the 1869 Schoolhouse Museum, across from the Salt Pond Visitor Center, off Route 6, which features Eastham artifacts, photos and

Thumpertown Beach on a quiet afternoon with just a few sunbathers and strollers. STEVE HAINES/CAPE COD TIMES FILE

Hidden Gem: Nauset Marsh Trail The Nauset Marsh Trail, which starts just beyond the outdoor amphitheater to the left of the Cape Cod National Seashore Visitor Center, is a wonderful blend of landscapes. The Seashore offers guided walks along the trail that combine history, local lore and environmental science along with great views and some exercise, but the trail is an easy one to follow if you choose to go on your own.

memorabilia, Civil War relics and more. The Swift-Daly House on Route 6 next to the post office includes a tool museum and the Gill Beach Shack salvaged from the spit off Coast Guard Continued on page 42

A couple heads up to Fort Hill in their 1926 Ford. MERRILY CASSIDY/CAPE COD TIMES FILE

42 Saturday, March 26, 2016 | Cape Cod Town by Town

Continued from page 41 Beach. Photogenic Fort Hill features the home of whaling Captain Edward Penniman, a mansard-roofed house and sperm whale jawbone as a familiar landmark. Coast Guard Beach has been consistently named among the top 10 beaches in the U.S. for its wild surf and big waves. Eastham is a prefect place for both fresh- and saltwater fishing, canoeing, kayaking or renting a bike to access the Cape Cod Rail Trail and the Old Colony Rail Trail as far as Dennis or Chatham, or up to Wellfleet. In season, Windmill Green across from Town Hall hosts band concerts, art, craft and antique shows, and the annual Windmill Weekend. To discover just how many things you can do with a turnip, visit the annual Eastham Turnip Festival, an event celebrating the town’s most favorite root vegetable. The idea for the festival started more than 12 years ago when Tricia Ford, then working at the Eastham Public Library, wanted the town to have a festival to call its own. The Eastham turnip is a special breed, according to local turnip farmer Bob Wells, characterizing it as the diva of root vegetables. Regular turnips are bitter, and often remind people of radishes, but Eastham turnips are sweet, blurring the line between turnip and rutabaga. They are finicky, and demand delicate conditions. If it's too hot or too cold, they won’t flourish, he said. Turnip Festival events include a cook-off (with recipes like turnip stout bread and turnip mushroom gratin), a shuck-off, turnip games, turnip royalty, turnip bowling, turnip treats and turnip decorating.

Dandelions give a pop of color to the lawn in front of the Eastham Windmill. STEVE HEASLIP/CAPE COD TIMES

A patron waits to buy his Eastham turnips from the Redberry Farm at the annual Eastham Turnip Festival. STEVE HEASLIP/CAPE COD TIMES FILE

Saturday, March 26, 2016 | Cape Cod Town by Town 43

A shellfisherman wades through his family’s shellfish grant off Mayo Beach. STEVE HEASLIP/CAPE COD TIMES FILE

WELLFLEET

Rural appeal, natural beauty, vibrant arts drive town By Kay Keough Contributing writer

There is something about the strong sense of community in the town of Wellfleet, says Lara Henry. “It’s hard to describe, but it has a pulse,” said the Wellfleet Chamber of Commerce administrator. It could be said that the confluence of its rural appeal, natural beauty and vibrant arts scene give the town and its people a unique energy and foundation on which to build connections. And building connections is a must, as the regular year-rounder population of 3,500 expands to 17,000 in the summer. Sixty-one percent of the land area of Wellfleet is in the Cape Cod National Seashore, the national park with 44,000 acres of open beach stretching from Chatham to Provincetown, according to the town’s website. It’s no surprise, then, that Wellfleet’s setting alone is a big part of its draw. “If you enjoy nature, there is much of it here in Wellfleet,” Henry said. “You can walk down the beach, through the woods to a pond, or around the harbor.” Wellfleet has five beaches for the

Hidden Gem: Atlantic White Cedar Swamp Trail The Atlantic White Cedar Swamp Trail at the Marconi Beach site in Wellﬂeet is a mile-and-a-half, mostly shaded walk, winding through a fairy-tale-like expanse that’s a refreshing hike and escape from busy schedules. Here you are offered an almost ethereal experience of a primeval wood, one of the Cape’s last few stands of Atlantic white cedar as well as stands of red maple and a variety of ecosystems, including heathlands. The trail ends with an expansive view of the ocean.

public to enjoy: Marconi Beach, which is owned and maintained by the National Seashore; Newcomb Hollow Beach; Cahoon Hollow Beach; White Crest Beach; and Maguire’s Landing. Alternately, its freshwater kettle ponds are cozier swimming holes that are sometimes a bit off the beaten path but worth the effort for their warmth, smaller sizes and shallow depths. And there are more places to commune with nature as well.

“Great Island is one of those places you can rediscover,” said Henry. “(It’s) familiar yet new each time you visit. In the off-season, you can walk for miles without seeing anyone; it seems isolating but it actually feels liberating.” For those new to town, she recommends a walk along Uncle Tim’s Bridge, which spans Duck Harbor. “No matter the tide it’s always beautiful out there,” she said. “Time your walk with the sunset and don’t forget to bring your camera.” For those who want to learn more about nature, Massachusetts Audubon Society’s Wellfleet Bay Wildlife Sanctuary has exhibits that teach visitors about local plants and animals, and aquariums showing the underwater worlds of the salt marsh, tidal flats and freshwater ponds. Events concerning the environment, animals and related topics are held periodically, and educational programs are offered for kids and adults. Also across the sanctuary’s 1,100 acres are five miles of trails to wander, as well as salt marshes, beaches, pine woods and Continued on page 44

ponds, with plenty of opportunities for birders to spot their favorite winged friends. When you’ve had your fill of fauna and flora, Wellfleet Historical Society has walking tours of Main Street to take you back in time, plus an annual house & garden tour. For entertainment aficionados, the town’s arts scene is one of the best on the Cape, particularly during the summer. More than a dozen art galleries line Wellfleet’s streets, including Left Bank Gallery and Burdick Art Gallery. Everything from paintings to sculptures and functional pieces can be found in their windows. Wellfleet Harbor Actors Theater and Harbor Stage Company, the town’s two professional theater companies, have seven- and threeshow seasons this year, respectfully. At Payomet Performing Arts Center, nationally known musicians drop in for performances throughout the year. Among those on this summer’s schedule are Maceo Parker and Blue Oyster Cult. Popular live-music spot The Beachcomber also draws in huge crowds right off the dunes, and has a raw bar to boot.

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Uncle Tim’s Bridge is the perfect spot for a walk with the dogs. MERRILY CASSIDY/CAPE COD TIMES FILE

Continued from page 43 ponds, with plenty of opportunities for birders to spot their favorite winged friends. When you’ve had your fill of fauna and flora, Wellfleet Historical Society has walking tours of Main Street to take you back in time, plus an annual house & garden tour. For entertainment aficionados, the town’s arts scene is one of the best on the Cape, particularly during the summer. More than a dozen art galleries line Wellfleet’s streets, including Left Bank Gallery and Burdick Art Gallery. Everything from paintings to sculptures and functional pieces can be found in their windows. Wellfleet Harbor Actors Theater and Harbor Stage Company, the town’s two professional theater companies, have seven- and threeshow seasons this year, respectfully. At Payomet Performing Arts Center, nationally known musicians drop in for performances throughout

the year. Among those on this summer’s schedule are Maceo Parker and Blue Oyster Cult. Popular live-music spot The Beachcomber also draws in huge crowds right off the dunes, and has a raw bar to boot. If you’d rather stay outside and enjoy a night under the stars, the Wellfleet Drive-In is a rare pleasure. Or if you don’t want to be confined to one type of entertainment or activity, Wellfleet Preservation Hall is your place, with everything from dance performances to films, classes, workshops and community events. Finally, for a literal taste of Wellfleet, the town presents its annual Oysterfest, which celebrates and supports the local shellfishing community and the town of Wellfleet over the weekend after Columbus Day in October. “If you enjoy oysters, music, shopping and beer, mark your calendar,” Henry said.

Local oysters are the stars of the day at the annual Wellfleet OysterFest. STEVE HAINES/ CAPE COD TIMES FILE

Parasailing over Cahoon Hollow Beach. ERIC WILLIAMS/CAPE COD TIMES FILE

Saturday, March 26, 2016 | Cape Cod Town by Town 45

TRURO

Natural beauty, dramatic beaches keep things simple By Eir Lindstrom-Holmy Contributing writer

Time moves slowly in Truro. Rural, quiet, and largely undeveloped, it is one of the Cape’s best-preserved towns, thanks in no small part to John F. Kennedy. In 1961, Kennedy formed the National Seashore to protect a large expanse of the Cape’s coastline, inspired by his deep and almost mystical love for the ocean. In his own words: “All of us have in our veins the exact same percentage of salt in our blood that exists in the ocean, and, therefore, we have salt in our blood, in our sweat, in our tears. We are tied to the ocean. And when we go back to the sea, whether to sail or to watch, we are going back to whence we came.” With the National Seashore accounting for 70 percent of its land, Truro is, literally, a national treasure. Accordingly, opportunities for development in the town have been strictly limited. Comprising two villages, Truro and North Truro, the town has a scant but diverse year-round population, partly made up of fisherman and retirees, which may swell to nearly 10 times its size when summer arrives. Many of the homes in Truro are summer homes, some owned by families who have vacationed there for generations. Year-round residents can expect to see a similar pattern among the rental properties, with familiar faces returning year after year. Incorporated in 1709, Truro was originally populated by the Paomet tribe of Native Americans, for whom the town’s Pamet River is named today. The Mayflower Pilgrims passed through Truro on their way to Plymouth, and according to town legend, they found a cache of Paomet corn at a place named Corn Hill. The legend is fondly remembered though historically disputed; what is better known of Truro’s history is that it used to be a thriving harbor, with cod fishing, whaling and shipbuilding the principal industries until the mid-19th century, when changing tides, coastal erosion and heavy winds combined to block the channel. Truro was briefly known as Dangerfield because of its treacherous shores, and was home to the first lighthouse on Cape Cod, built in 1797. The lighthouse was replaced in 1857,

Golfers make a play during a round at Highland Links. MERRILY CASSIDY/CAPE COD TIMES FILE

Hidden Gem: Truro Vineyards

A relaxing morning at Great Hollow Beach. ERIC WILLIAMS/CAPE COD TIMES FILE

and moved further inland in 1996. Today it is known as Highland Light. For those wanting to explore the town’s history, the Truro Historical Society operates the Highland House Museum. Life in Truro is about keeping things

simple. For entertainment, there is all the great outdoors has to offer, and for those craving more activity, there’s always fun to be found in nearby Provincetown. “Downtown” Truro SEE TRURO, 46

Offering regular tours and tastings throughout the summer, Truro Vineyards is pioneering wine production on the Cape, producing 13 varieties of wine from the Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Chardonnay grapes they grow, blended with other varietals bought in for the purpose. Tastings are $10 for ﬁve wines, or buddy up and share to taste 10 varieties. It’s not Napa, but word has it the wine is steadily improving, and the distillery, South Hollow Spirits, has newly released line of rum – 20 Boats – which has been very well received in the industry. The grounds are lush, and The Hollow is a nice outdoor spot to relax with a rum cocktail and something tasty from the on-site food truck. In September, the annual Truro Treasures Weekend culminates with a grape stomp and Jazz Festival at Truro Vineyards.

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TRURO From Page 45

is extremely rustic, with a convenience store and a post office. The town does boast a few decent eateries, notably the Blackfish Bistro, known for its buttermilk-fried oysters and tuna Bolognese. There is also a regular seafood market, Mac's, that runs into early winter, and a handful of stores. People who choose to live in Truro love the town for its natural beauty: the dramatic beaches on the Atlantic Ocean and the gentler, warmer waters on Cape Cod Bay. To enjoy this coastal splendor residents have the option of walking or cycling to the beach or purchasing the required permits — a National Seashore Season Pass is about $60, and a town beach sticker is $175. Head of the Meadow Beach on the Atlantic coast is popular, with ample parking, and vigorous waters favored by surfers and seals. Corn Hill Beach is long and narrow, with a gentle slope into the water, making it a better choice for children or anyone preferring to take it easy. Beach bonfires are allowed with a permit on certain beaches, including Head Truro Vineyards offers tours and tastings throughout the summer. RON SCHLOERB/CAPE COD TIMES FILE of the Meadow, but numbers are limited. Truro is dotted with conservation lands offering decent hiking and a little cycling. The Highland Links nine-hole golf course is America’s oldest links course, and Bearberry Hill on North Pamet Road offers some of the best views, overlooking Ballston Beach. Houses in Truro are rarely seen on the market for under half-million dollars, even for those with the most basic amenities. Designers have seized upon what limited opportunities exist for development, eschewing oversized, pseudo-classical McMansions typical of other parts of the Cape, often in favor of striking modernist architecture. While Truro has the Truro Central School for students from kindergarten through sixth grade, the town has a tuition agreement with the Provincetown and Nauset Regional school districts to cater for middle and high-school students, who can also choose to attend the Cape Cod Regional Technical High School in Harwich. Truro Center for the Arts at Castle Hill is an inclusive community arts center offering classes, and hosting exhibitions and events. In summer, theater, screenings, and musical entertainment can be found at Payomet Center for Performing Arts, housed in a tent at The Highlands Center, which previously Some of the stars of the Truro Agricultural Fair. STEVE HEASLIP/CAPE COD TIMES FILE played host to John Mayall and Rickie Lee Jones.

Saturday, March 26, 2016 | Cape Cod Town by Town 47

PROVINCETOWN

Unrivaled natural beauty pairs with lively local culture By Eir Lindstrom-Holmy Contributing writer

Affectionately known as “P-Town,” Provincetown boasts a unique combination of lively local culture and unparalleled natural beauty. A remote location on the farthest end of the Cape allows for access to Boston or Plymouth via seasonal ferry, and like every harbor town, Provincetown’s history has been shaped by its relationship with the water. Though the Pilgrims signed the Mayflower Compact in what became Provincetown Harbor, the land would remain Nauset territory until the beginning of the 18th century. After being colonized, the area was primarily a fishing and whaling town, increasingly peopled with Portuguese fishermen from the Azores, until the 20th century, when artists colonies were established and tourism began to take hold on the Cape. This transition was helped along by a storm known as the Portland Gale, which caused severe damage to the fishing industry around the turn of the century, allowing the town’s budding art community to take roots in various deserted buildings. It was around this time Charles Webster Hawthorne opened the Cape Cod School of Art, based out of a large barn — which has recently been returned to occasional use for the “20 Summers” season of concerts and art residencies. Actors started coming from New York in the summer to work in experimental theater groups like the Provincetown Players, and writers including Tennessee Williams and Norman Mailer were drawn into the town’s aura. Today, venues including the Fine Arts Work Center, the Provincetown Art Association and Museum, the Provincetown Art House and the Provincetown Theatre continue this cultural legacy, and live entertainment in the area maintains strong links with Broadway. In 1978, the Provincetown Business Guild was formed to promote what has since become LGBT tourism, contributing significantly to the growth of Provincetown as a resort. Today, more than 200 businesses belong to the PBG, which organizes the town’s signature carnival. During carnival week, the town draws a

Candyland was the theme of the parade during Provincetown’s 37th annual Carnival celebration in August 2015. MERRILY CASSIDY/CAPE COD TIMES FILE

Hidden Gem: Province Lands Bike Trail It’s no secret, but with all the bustle of town it’s easy for visitors to miss out on miles of the well-maintained Province Lands Bike Trail that allows for hours spent exploring the dunes and the Beech Forest. The most basic circuit is 5.2 miles, but this can easily be extended, for example, with excursions to Race Point and Herring Cove, perfect for cooling down after acing the challenging and hilly trails. Bring your own bike or rent one in town, but come prepared with a supply of drinking water, sun protection and bike helmets.

diverse group of visitors, and offers something for everyone. Provincetown is blessed with two stunning and very different beaches, Race Point and Herring Cove. Race Point tends to be thrilling: it is vast and awe-inspiring, with bracing chill waters which can be violent and subject to currents, occasionally

bringing seals too close for comfort. Sightings of whales off the beach are not unusual. For those looking to stay longer, RV parking is allowed on a section of the beach, at $75 for a weekly permit. Herring Cove is a relaxing and tranquil beach for swimmers, tending to be calm with pristine waters that

drop off steeply from the shore. Just a short walk from the parking area, you might find yourself diving for shells and watching the boats pass near the horizon, as you enjoy a taste of paradise. Either beach will require close supervision of children, with Race Point likely unsuitable for swimming. Oceangoing craft of all kinds depart daily from the docks, taking vacationers on fishing trips, sailing trips and harbor cruises, but one of the best bets is a whale watching trip to Stellwagen Bank, where the odds are good for seeing Humpback whales up close and personal. The town itself is composed of quaint, narrow streets, where SEE PROVINCETOWN, 48

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PROVINCETOWN From Page 47

colorful wooden buildings serve as bed and breakfasts or storefronts along the busy main drag of Commercial Street — lined with art galleries, antique stores and all manner of design-focused stores, alongside a wide array of restaurants, bars and clubs. Provincetown is known among foodies for eateries including the Portuguese Bakery, The Lobster Pot, Local 186, Napi's, Mac’s Shack and The Red Inn, many of which host annual opening parties plying guests with free food and drink. As the sun goes down, Commercial Street becomes a hot spot for cabaret-style entertainment with the Atlantic House’s “Showgirls” and karaoke at the Governor Bradford among the staples. With a sociable community with a taste for culture and entertainment, there is no doubting Provincetown residents know how to party, and the town excels at any kind of festival. Highlights include the Portuguese

Festival, the Jazz Festival, the Cabaret Festival, Bear Week, and the Provincetown International Film Festival. The Provincetown museum offers insights into local history, and the opportunity to climb the adjacent the 252-foot Pilgrim Monument often referred to as the Provincetown Tower. Provincetown Schools, serving grades PK-8, is an International Baccalaureate World School with an emphasis on fostering global citizenship and creative thinking. Provincetown High School was phased out in 2013 because of low student population, and students are now served by Nauset Regional High School or Cape Cod Regional Technical High School. It’s a long drive to from the bridge to the end of Route 6A, but the town also has its own airport, with 20-minute shuttle flights to and from Boston and seasonal routes to White Plains, New York.

The late afternoon sun dips below the Provincetown horizon. MERRILY CASSIDY/CAPE COD TIMES FILE

A morning stand-up paddleboard yoga class along MacMillan Pier in Provincetown. STEVE HEASLIP/CAPE COD TIMES FILE