WHY in the 21st Century are we not living more like the ancient days?

A girl lives one week of every month a bit differently, which has a close emotional connection to her body. All my fellow women, girls, men and boys; have you ever observed a palpable tension in the air if the term ‘menstruation’ is openly used in groups or have ever seen someone diverting or transitioning to another channel if the TV flashes ads of sanitary napkins soaking blue ink to show how absorbent they are? It might not be obvious where you live, but have no doubt, I observe this behaviour in India!

In India, as a female, you are not supposed to go to temple during your period, period! (Pun intended). Oh also, while you’re at it, don’t even touch any holy basil, avoid entering the kitchen, stay away from pickles, don’t tell or even discuss this with your father or brother… Hey! Hide your pad! Make sure no-one knows you’re on your period! Also, why didn’t you ask for black polythene while purchasing a sanitary napkin (pads and tampons)… don’t do this, don’t do that! And on-andon it goes!

These are the few common society constructed restriction passed on to every generation in the form of heritage and cultural practices that must be followed by any female during her period in India. On any given day, every day of the year, there is likely to be approximately 500 million women and young girls experiencing menstruation, and for some reason, this occurrence is supposed to be something socially uncomfortable, taboo, and shameful with superstition and linked to mystical elements that we are not allowed to question or challenge. Really? Why don’t we just see this as a normal and inevitable biological process of discharging of blood and mucosal tissue from lining of the uterus through the vagina, for anyone apart from the victim of these ‘so called’ curtailments? Does this make you uncomfortable?

Some of the problems with these myths and superstitions are the loss of understanding over the centuries. Thousands of years ago in India, today’s beliefs were privileges and recommendations given to women during their periods as a way to protect women, the environment and the ancient version of ‘public health and safety’ in a time where sanitation products were not available.

Our Indian ancestors were not well equipped with all the required resources during periods like sanitary napkins, and they had issues of not being capable of handling one’s bodily needs and didn’t have pain medications and other remedies to manage what is often a very difficult week for women. In this era and this stage of civilization, it is rationale to advise women not to come in temples or anywhere outside while being in menstruation, and by giving the type of messaging they did, was to help make women not feel guilty about missing the opportunity to pray and show their religious or cultural devotion.

As far as detachment from the kitchen and other daily activities are concerned, we should know that the normal daily physical activities for an Indian woman in ancient India included cooking for as many as 15-20 people (typically with no running water, electricity or appliances), taking care of her husband and children- all of which was a tremendous amount of physical activity and demand. Furthermore, I think it is agreeable that there is a health risk of having discharge and blood mixing with food easily when there were no sanitary devices available- which can lead to poor hygiene and the spread of infection. So, a women who is going through a period, also in pain and fatigued, was given 3-4 days forced break and not to be ostracized. Hang on…I thought the ancients were all wrong? Isn’t this a great demonstration and a privilege of being taken cared for in a structured way? For all the flack we give the ancestors, maybe this mentality of realising the needs of women, and structurally putting things in place to make them feel comfortable and make them void of guilt and shame just for being a female, and make society feel the expectation to support them, is a good way to look at menstruation! It allowed women to rest, sit alone, and meditate, in order to feel better. When we think of it like this, it seems we have unfortunately got it all backwards! These old traditions were made to protect and care for women, not to deprive them. It’s a wonderful way to treat a women on her menstrual cycle and a great recognition of one thing society at that time tried to do for women.

It is sad that with the passage of time over human history, with no proper documentation or rigorous record keeping or access to information, it has caused so many ‘traditions’ to be passed down in a way that has left our society lost of all the original purpose, meaning, logic and rationale. From the potential of being a caring, thoughtful, and conscientious tradition and social action, it has become a tradition that evokes discrimination, judgement, uncaring, illogical, and irrational fearmongering, that can leave women feeling ostracized, victims, and disadvantaged.

On the pretext of heritage practices, women do not have the same limitations as generations before us. For this I am grateful to be a woman alive today. Time has been changed with advancement of resources, medical science, and technology. We women have pads, tampons, sanitary napkins, health professionals and medications- all of which should be made available to every girl and woman if it is not already. We do not have the same work structure as we used to do thousand years ago. The reasons to prevent us from being in the kitchen, in the temple, and all the health risks back then, are no longer the same issues they once were. Modern medicine and modern technology has allowed women to understand the biological reasons and rationale for our menstrual cycles, and be equipped to handle their health needs. Then, why do we need to follow these as rules of society? If it really is only about ‘representing and maintaining the cultures and traditions of our ancestors’, then why are some people in charge allowed to pick-and-choose? If we really want to represent and maintain ‘cultures and traditions’, then why don’t we look for the positive underlying intentions from days gone by and bring them forward whilst leaving the negative behind; and maintain the cultures and traditions that supported and nurtured women and tried to support women in the best way they could for the time, and better this with the advancements we have made? It is time we re-think what we have learnt from the ancient civilizations and truly progress in the 21st century. █

Samdarshni | Aspiring journalist and photographer

PTW Grassroots Student, Magic Room Project

Diva Dhawan is the Co-Founder of VRTT Vintage. From New York herself and her Co-Founder from South Africa, the duo set up in Mumbai where they have built a community that is committed to take part in the fashion industry’s need for ecoconscious change. Their team of cofounders come with many years of experience between the fashion and start-up world, and VRTT is rooted in our joint passion for fashion and conscious consumerism.

Along with VRTT, Diva is also the founder of ‘And Then We Stretch’- online Pilates, yoga and movement based classes to educate, promote and share a healthy lifestyle with the world.

DIVA DHAWAN DIVA DHAWAN

An Interview with DIVA DHAWAN

To watch and listen to the full sit down with Diva Dhawan click here.

Tell us a little about yourself and how you ended up in the fashion industry

I was brough up in New York and studies at FIT in Fashion Merchandising Management. I was always the kind of person who had a set life plan: graduate; get a certain type of job; live in a certain type of neighbourhood in Manhattan; live in a bubble that all of us set for ourselves with, like ‘mental-checklist-goals’ for life.

Everything took a turn when I was scouted by an agency from India called ‘Elite Model Management’. I always enjoyed the idea of modelling but always thought if I did it, I would do modelling in New York. I was attached to, and aware off the fashion and modelling industry in New York. India was never on the cards for me because I’d never been to India or walked in Indian clothes or knew many Indian designers, but once it took off, I was very lucky to rise and be very busy working. I never saw myself living in India, but you can’t control these things – they just happen to you.

I’ve been working in the Indian fashion industry for over 10 years including modelling to hosting some of the biggest award shows, being affiliated with certain brands and endorsements, to then starting my own company with my best friend called ‘VRTT’ Vintage. VRTT Vintage sells previously owned luxury good.

With my 2 main passions: fashion and fitness, I also teach Pilates on the side on the Instagram account ‘And Then We Stretch’ (which is so much cooler than my own Instagram account).

Did you feel there was a big difference in the way India’s Fashion Industry worked? Did you find the culture of the fashion industry was very different compared with America?

The India of today isn’t the same India that I started in. The cafes where you get your almond milk from or the gyms that exist now, weren’t part of the India that I started working in. India was still developing these concepts from the West. In India they approached the fashion industry completely differently.

Initially, India was still playing ‘bythe-books’, being the same rules instilled in Indian households and culture. They were taking from that and staying within those lines. There were only a few designers who made and followed their own path. When I started I was the youngest girl to participate in a fashion week in Delhi called the Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week. It wasn’t the norm for a 16-yearold girl to be a model in India. Everything was ‘by the book’ with Indian parents. There was a mentality that you had to graduate, get a job, or get married.

There was always talent, but today you see more people are outspoken and confident in what they create. Fashion, especially design, is a form of art, and it should be a form of expression, but when you are thinking with a particular culture or cultural stigma in mind, you’re creating only in a specific way. Now that people are willing to be more outspoken, it’s made a huge difference to the diversity and ideas in the Indian fashion industry.

In a city like New York, anything goes; and that’s the beauty of the city. There’s no cultural norm in New York – we set the next trend and we do things out of the box that can be crazy; and the crazier the better. In India it was always the opposite, but now India’s reached a point where no f***ks given.

Tell us about VRTT Vintage and why you started that with Gabriella

VRTT Vintage was started by Gabriella and I. We started the company and base the company in India

For Gabriella and I, it was to be part of a more eco conscious luxury lifestyle. We’re both people who have travelled and lived abroad and we have no problem owning to the fact that we wear second-hand goods. In fact the first Chanel The reason we chose India is that we saw I ever bought was second-hand Chanel. a gap in the market for a second-hand-luxury-good platform. Anyone who follows second-hand luxury goods knows about Versatera and knows about Real-Real hese are platforms that ship worldwide. Anyone who lives in India and knows the import and export taxes here, knows it doesn’t make sense after a certain point to shop online. Indians also have a culture of ‘hand-me-downs’. If you have siblings or cousins from an Indian family, you’re used City Bike to being handed clothes down. It’s not just clothing; even gifts we so often ‘pay it forNear Bush ward’. The culture is built around the idea that, if you don’t like something, keep it in the packaging and give it to another relaDaytime tive; and that’s something normal that we laugh about in our houses.

I’m not parading around telling people it’s second hand, but if someone asked me, I have no shame in saying that it is second hand. Once you learn more about fashion, a brand like Chanel can even increase in value with second-hand.

There are many aspects to why we started this company. It’s making people more consciously aware of how you can contribute to a luxury lifecycle without being an activist. All of us want to shop, but we don’t always have to buy brand new. It’s also a way to educate on brand retail, the stores and past seasons clothing, whilst being more cost-effective too.

What kind of products have been the most popular in the secondhand market?

The most popular brands were Louis Vuitton and Chanel. But then you have the Prada nylon bags that have made a huge comeback. India doesn’t have a Prada store in Mumbai, and some of these brands never go ‘on sale’, so being able to buy these products has a huge appeal.

There are so many different brands along with so many different styles. People often associate a brand with a specific style, such as the Gucci belts or Celine with the luggage totes, but we would get such rare pieces that could be 10 or 20 years old that are great items, showing you can thrift and match new with old.

How has the process been trying to bridge the perceptions and reservations towards the secondhand fashion market?

The process is completely anonymous for people who are still uncomfortable with sharing their involvement in buying or selling second-hand, but the point is, if there is no use for the product for yourself, you might as well give it away rather than let it sit in your closet.

Changing the attitudes towards second-hand clothing won’t change overnight and 2 people (Gabriella and myself) can’t change the culture alone so it is a work in progress, but the second-hand economy is growing and consumers are educating themselves more on where products are being made and how the products were made, and how conscious the company is on their ethos. We can only stand for what we sell and curate, and we are particular about the products we take, because we don’t want to add more waste. Purposefully, you can’t use our platform for just ‘anything’, but we’re hoping to expand our brand this year and work with a few household names on some of the products that would otherwise send to waste. We’ve had to slow down because of the pandemic, but we’re expanding into men’s and children’s clothing.

A lot is about educating the clientele, sharing the knowledge and learning side-by-side. It’s a passion project and we’re very open to seeing how we can help in some way. The second hand market is going to boom over the next few years. The amount of talented people I meet in any fashion category in India that is ready to make the change; and their educating themselves, travelling and collaborating with the right people, so it’s definitely going in the right direction.

When did healthy living come into your life?

Being healthy and being active has always been part of my life. Growing up in the suburbs, if I wasn’t already playing in a school sports team or part of a school club, I was outside till the sun set. I think it has a lot to do with the way I formed my own routine and always being hands-on.

For me, school was secondary. I couldn’t just sit in a classroom and soak in all the knowledge. I got a retail job when I was 15 years old to understand what it would be like to grow a brand, or run a store, or just do something in merchandising. I feel the same way about health and wellness. You play with things you’re interested in.

I loved sports growing up. I was on the basketball team, played tennis, did karate, did track and field, swimming, piano; tap, ballet and jazz dancing. I don’t understand how I had time, but it was what I lived for – have any excuse to be outside. For me, nature is everything.

Where did your passion for ‘And Then We Stretch’ come from?

Once I started working, there was only so much I could do to stay on track with the things I once loved as a kid. I also started becoming less competitive in life so I never wanted to go into competition, but movement is something I enjoy.

A lot of people are getting into meditation and using different apps which is great for the people it works for, but it never works for me. There are days I can meditate for an hour, but then there are days where I only have 5 minutes; but one thing that connects me to myself is movement.

When I was 15, my teacher suggested I try Pilates. I got hooked to Pilates. It was originally designed to be for rehabilitation from injury. Though I didn’t have any injuries, it was something I felt was missing from my overall practice. It helped me develop my core strength and was amazed by how in-touch I was with my own body. Pilates isn’t going to be for everyone but everyone has a moment when they try something and realise that it’s for them. Then one time when I went back home, I got a Pilates certification.

I also have a strong passion for dance and started mixing the two together, making my own workouts, and choreographing them. I always wanted to teach, but when I was in India, it was very hard to commit and become a full-time teacher because of the need to travel constantly; but during the lockdown it gave me time to work on it and with everyone home and stuck indoors, people responded really well to it because people needed a way to move indoors.

I also didn’t want people to take working out so seriously. It shouldn’t come from a vain reason; it should come from something that connects you to it, which is why I say Pilates isn’t going to be for everyone. For me, I like to enjoy myself. I see it as something I’m doing for myself and taking time out of the day for myself.

“I also didn’t want people to take working out so seriously. It shouldn’t come from a vain reason; it should come from something that connects you to it”

What are some of the ways you stay healthy and prioritise for your health? What are your ‘top tips’ to keep on-track towards a healthy lifestyle?

I’m a morning person. I feel like, even if I must wake up an extra hour before anything starts, I need my time for coffee, to work out and do a mental check. I like to start my weekdays like that, and as Thursday hits, I get a bit more relaxed.

I’m mostly vegetarian but sometimes eat seafood. That’s not out of religious reasons. I stopped eating meat when I was 15 years old. I just don’t crave it. I just like to pay attention to what I like and don’t like.

The one thing I trick myself into being deprived of is any form of dessert because that’s my one weakness.

I like to stick to a routine. I like to have certain plans and deadlines on a daily basis and be strict with it until the weekend. On the weekend I’ll go with the flow. It’s hard to stick to the routine all the time, especially if I’m regularly travelling, but will always try to stay balanced and make it work.

I would say, it’s important to spend at least 1 hour a day outside doing something active. It could be for walking, running, just getting outdoors and sitting.

I think it’s important to have 7-8 hours of sleep

It’s also worth getting ‘bloodwork’ done (blood tests) to find out any deficiencies you have, make sure you’re eating or taking required supplements or vitamins for any deficiencies and make a list of your favourite foods that are junk or unhealthy, and either control yourself if they’re in the house, or leave them completely for the weekend or a substitute mid-week splurge.

For most people there’s no set meal times so you have to think about what you’re eating and why – are you eating out of boredom? Because you’re hungry? It’s about having a conversation in your head and saying “I really want that piece of chocolate now, but if I save it for Thursday I can treat myself”. If you can’t do that, then maybe make the change from milk chocolate to dark chocolate. You have to find your level of discipline.

Basically it comes down to: you just need to keep moving, hydrating and eating healthy.

I love my wine, having a midnight snack if I’m watching TV late, but basically you can’t treat everyday like it’s your birthday. ‘And Then We Stretch’ social media page is my ‘inspo-board’ and reflects that. It’s not just about health and wellness but knowing it’s purely life to not have the best six days in-a-row, and knowing the balance between what’s healthy and what’s not. █