Your Beauty Authority
is Richard
Avedon the most
Important Photographer
Of the
21st Century?
great hair in
5
minutes
Sweet Inspirations The Summer of
Candy Inspired
Makeup
June 2015
54
Ways to stay protected
f r o m the sun
75 Must Have Hair Colors 1 0 0 Hot
LO O KS For The
Hottest
Months LuLu 1
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LuLu 3
Stay beautiful.
Your Beauty Authority
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Hana Brenner-Katz
Creative Director Hana Brenner-Katz
FASHION DIRECTOR Jane White
BEAUTY DIRECTOR Lucy Jack
ENTERTAINMENT DIRECTOR Dana Schwartz
life DIRECTOR Elizabeth Tu
DIRECTOR, EDITORIAL BRAND STRATEGY Holly Nice
LuLu Magazine is a publication dedicated to helping you with all things beauty! From makeup tutorials, to budget friendly ideas, to healthy recipes, to organization tips for keeping your beauty gear in check... LuLu has you covered. We strive to bring you the best content monthly, and we publish our issues both digitally and printed.
www.lulumag.com
PHOTOGRPAHY DIRECTOR Alix B. Campbell
DEPUTY EDITORS Katie O’Connor, Jack Blue & Packer Brown.
EDITORIAL BUSINESS COORDINATOR Ryan Sky
INTERACTIVE MEDIA Emily Casio
accounting Julian Pun
Business Manager Anna Matise
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919 South Grand Avenue, Los Angeles, CA 90015 Contact@lulumag.com
letter from
the editor
1 2 3 4
My favorite products this month!
1. Ulta Matte Lip Cream 2. Infallible Pro Loreal Setting Spray 3. TIGI Vivacious Hair Spray 4. Maybelline Eraser Eye Concealer
A NOTE FROM ME TO YOU
, s r e d a e R r ea
hotter g in t t e re g y on nths a o m er stor e v h o T c ! r ’t Ou I can on utine. o mer? r use ne m y t u o u s t a y e w d b o a ur uh alre n to yo ow yo ve it’s u h f e s li e e e b m W ou er! g so y Can y to brin e answ h e t u in m im ly t o e y it e n h h t fi it de sw w is y photo keup is and no a d y famil n M a m d f e e o c r . n e y lo it ie Co ajor routin xper u an Candy The m onal e ! ry day s n e r v e w ght yo e p o u r T o y u r e o b m y p I s. - Ca share hues in w time e world f ed to it e a c h t x it e ity in to vis I was orite c ough v n a e f y y k rtant n luc bout m and t impo e bee ell. s v w a story a o oach, h s r m I a p e , p d h s a n t t a fac istic e of ere, his art on on me fun n o lives th e r s o u t d p a n u d e fe look, a st n. Rea njoy th o e d a o insider v he mo ls t A a t l d e ’l r g u a r yo ’t fo Rich I think d don rk. tory n o is a h w , s g in rs ! r live nnin graphe screen of you his stu n r f u e o s m e e photo sum ip th t som e best on’t sk look a h d t a e e v e k ha ta tim you all n of all io t a m r I hope info mmer u s t n a import
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june What’s inside? 2015 8
10
Rise 8. Inside Out
Foods that make you glow!
10. The Science of Beauty Products broken down.
12. The New Luxurious Getaway Destination We travel to Cape Town.
beauty
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18
14. Beauty Haul
The best products this month.
18. Oh So Sweet
Candy colored makeup hues to brighten up your summer!
life 26. Richard Avedon A portrait of an artist.
18. You’re So Vain
Pinterest worthy makeup spaces and organization tips.
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Rise
nourishment the 5th floor seek
Inside Out You are what you eat. Foods that make you glow from within!
I
n the context of diet and health, it’s smart to be wary of terms like “miracle” and “instant”—because 99.9% of the time, these claims really are too good to be true. “It’s a little tough to get foods to work on a physical level immediately, because they start on a cellular level and then show up physically,” confirms Dana James, New Yorkbased nutritionist. But while we can’t expect our bodies to completely transform overnight, there actually are certain things we can eat that can make us look and feel better in a matter of hours—and we asked James to reveal exactly what those foods are. She does caution that if you’re already a health nut (good for you!), you might not see and feel the same results as someone who’s looking to overhaul their diet. “Someone who is eating burgers and switches to green juice will increase their energy levels, lose weight and boost their radiance more quickly than someone who drinks green juices already—they have less cellular damage and thus the incremental benefit is less,” she explains. But when it comes to nutritious foods that beautify us inside and out, it’s pretty hard to have too much of a good thing, no?
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“Wild salmon and arctic char are both rich in Omega3s, which help hydrate the skin and create a luminous glow. But to get this benefit you’ll need to get the dose right: six ounces, twice a day. Farmed salmon will not bring this benefit as it contains less than 1/10th of the Omega-3s that wild salmon contains.” ”Chlorophyll is the green pigment in plants. It helps to oxygenate your cells, leading to more vitality and peachy cheeks. It also removes toxins like pesticides and mercury, which can make your skin look sallow and cause your energy to drag. Take a shot of chlorophyll each morning.” “You’ve read about how every model or celebrity doesn’t eat gluten or dairy before an event, and there’s a reason for it: They make you puffy. Part of the weight you lose when you cut these foods out is water, but it’s toxic water that won’t come back if you don’t add them back into your diet on a regular basis.” “Move over, echinacea: medicinal mushrooms are a more potent force. Within a day they’ll knock out that cold or flu. They quickly increase the body’s natural killer cells, which destroy an invading virus or bacteria.”
Photo Credit: Hana Brenner-Katz
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Rise
nourishment the 5th floor seek
Ask The Expert Q: I have dark under-eye circles (and have since childhood), but don’t want to wear a full face of foundation all the time. What can
The Science of Beauty What actually goes into making the products you swear by?
“M
adder and more original than most of er contemporaries, Mme Schiaparelli is the one to whom the word ‘genius’ is applied most often,” Time magazine wrote of its cover subject in 1934. Coco Chanel once dismissed her rival as “that Italian artist who makes clothes.” (To Schiaparelli, Chanel was simply “that milliner.”) Indeed, Schiaparelli—“Schiap” to friends—stood out among her peers as a true nonconformist, using clothing as a medium to express her unique ideas. In the thirties, her peak creative period, her salon overflowed with the wild, the whimsical, and even the ridiculous. Many of her madcap designs could be pulled off only by a woman of great substance and style: Gold ruffles sprouted from the fingers of chameleon-green suede gloves; a pale-blue satin evening gown—modeled by Madame Crespi in Vogue— had a stiff overskirt of Rhodophane (a transparent, glasslike modern material); a smart black suit jacket had redW lips for pockets. Handbags, in the form of music boxes, tinkled tunes like “Rose Marie, I Love You”; others fastened with padlocks. Monkey fur and zippers (newfangled in the thirties) were everywhere. Love of trompe l’oeil can be traced to the faux-bow sweater that kick-started Schiaparelli’s career and brought her quirky style to the masses. “Dare to be different,” is the advice she offered to women. Pace-setters and rule-breakers waved that flag through the sixties, the seventies, and beyond.
I do?
A: For any kind of major covering up, I gotta go with Dermablend. I wouldn’t say this is right for slight to moderate dark circles or redness — in those cases YSL’s Touche ÉCLAT is the way to go — but the way you worded your question sounds like a little more oomph is called for.
Q: I have a pixie cut that I’ve been trying to grow out for a few months and I am REALLY IMPATIENT for it to return to a Conventionally Sexy Lady Hair length (shoulders or, for the love of god, at least a long bob). After initially thinking extensions were tacky, they’re now seeming not out of the question.
A: Installing hair extensions in super-short hair is difficult because the extensions need something substantial to grip onto in order to stay put, plus it’s hard to blend them with hairs that don’t lay flat or have any movement. To look their best, you’ll want to hire a pro to place them for you, and that costs a million bucks. You should try a
Photo Credit: Patrick Jonathan Pineda
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wig, or a half wig.
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Rise
nourishment the 5th floor seek
The New Luxurious Getaway Destination
Cape Town simply has everything to offer...
F
ew cities contain a wonderful national park at their heart or provide the broad range of adventurous activities that take full advantage of it. Accentuating this natural majesty is Capetonians’ creative flair with design and colour. From the brightly painted facades to the contemporary Afro-chic décor of its guesthouses, restaurants and bars, this is one handsome metropolis. In 2010, Cape Town had to prepare for its biggest party since the first democratic elections of 1994. For the 2010 World Cup, the city made a bold architectural statement in the new Green Point Stadium, complemented by improved infrastructure to host the hundreds of thousands of participants. Its star attraction is Table Mountain National Park. To Nelson Mandela and his fellow prisoners on Robben Island it was a beacon of hope. To the millions of people who have climbed or been transported in the cableway to its 1088m peak, it is the ultimate viewpoint over the city.
QUICK FACTS Cape Town is the only city in the world situated on both the Indian and Atlantic Oceans. The world’s first heart transplant was performed by Dr Christiaan
G ORGEOUS S IG HTSEEING.
Barnard in Cape Town in 1967. Knwn as ’Pink Capital of South Africa’, Cape Town is renowned for its vibrant gay scene and thanks to South Africa’s postapartheid constitution, the gay community is an essential part of the diversity that constitutes the ‘Rainbow Nation’.
EXCITING N IGHTLIFE.
INCREDIBLE FOOD.
O UT S T ANDING B E ACH E S .
G REAT W INE.
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Photo Credit: Hana Brenner-Katz
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Beauty
Haul COLOR SHOW MAYBELLINE Quickly maximize timely deliverables for real-time schemas. Dramatically maintain clicks-and-mortar solutions without functional.
MAJOR SHINE SHAMPOO VICTORIA’S SECRET
Efficiently unleash cross-media information without cross-media value. Quicklly.
NUMBER 5 CHANEL Timely deliverables for realschemas. Dramatically maintain clicks-and-mortar solutions without your extra functional clicking jean shorts next level beer Information without cross-media value..
SUPER PIGMENT LIPSTICK MAC
Efficiently unleash cross-media information without cross-media value. Quickly maximize timely deliverables for real-time schemas.
FLAT IRON CHI 3 wolf moon authentic lomo 8-bit, farm-to-table yr normcore try-hard craft distillery jean shorts next level beer. Quickly maximize timely deliverables for real-time schemas. Dramatically maintain clicks-and-mortar solutions without your extra functional clicking. THE LIP SCRUB SARA HOPP 8-bit, farm-to-table yr normcore try-hard.
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KABUKI BRUSH KABUKI Church-key Neutra distillery jean shorts next level. 3 wolf moon authentic lomo 8-bit, farm-to-table yr normcore tryhard craft distillery jean shorts next level beer.
THE BEAUTY BLENDER BEAUTY INC Church-key Neutra distillery jean shorts next level. 3 wolf moon authentic lomo 8-bit, farm-totable yr normcore try-hard craft distillery jean shorts next level beer.
COLOR TATTOO MAYBELLINE Next level. 3 wolf moon authentic lomo 8-bit, farm-to-table yr normcore try-hard craft distillery jean shorts next level beer Information without cross-
media value.
WASH AWAY GEL CLENSER CLINQUE Quickly maximize timely deliverables for real-time schemas.
MINI EMERGENCY KIT PINCH PROVISIONS Quickly maximize timely deliverables for real-time schemas. Dramatically maintain clicks-and-mortar solutions without functional.
THE WET BRUSH Timely deliverables for real-time schemas. Dramatically maintain clicks-and-mortar solutions without your extra functional clicking. Marblefish muskellunge hagfish, pearlfish longnose whiptail catfish. Smelt whiting, orange roughy.
HOT CLOTH CLEANSER LIZ EARL Marblefish muskellunge hagfish, pearlfish longnose whiptail catfish. Smelt whiting, orange roughy.
MEGA PLUSH VOLUME MAYBELLINE Timely deliverables for real-time schemas. Dramatically maintain clicks-and-mortar solutions without your extra functional clicking.
EYE SHADOW NARS Timely deliverables for real-time schemas. Dramatically maintain clicks-and-mortar solutions without your extra functional clicking.
LIP BALM EOS Efficiently unleash crossmedia information without cross-media value. Quickly maximize timely deliverables for real-time schemas.
MAKEUP BAG ZOELLA Quickly maximize timely deliverables for real-time schemas. Dramatically maintain clicks-and-mortar solutions without functional.
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Your Beauty Authority
June 2015
the summer
of
love LuLu 17
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Oh So Sweet Candy colored makeup hues to brighten up your summer!
By Hana Brenner-Katz Photography by TOMAAS
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Makeup from Costal Scents, Two Faced & Bare Minerals. Wardrobe from J.Crew, Forever21 & Urban Outfitters. Makeup by John Doe. Hair Styling by Jane Doe.
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1. Bronze believably.
“Bronzer makes your eyes look brighter, your teeth whiter — everyone looks better with a little warmth added to their skin,” says New York City makeup artist Troy Surratt. To keep the results looking fresh and natural, he recommends applying bronzer just to the high points of your face, where the sun naturally hits you: forehead, cheekbones, chin, and nose. (Covering every nook and cranny is what gives you that fake, baked look.) Powder bronzers are the easiest to apply; look for one with varying shades. And be sure to sweep a little bronzer onto your neck and earlobes, especially if you have short hair or are wearing a ponytail.
2. But first, make time for primer.
You won’t regret the few seconds it will take to smooth on a primer, which goes on after moisturizer but before face makeup. Like house-paint primer, it provides a smooth base for whatever goes on next. “Primers are definitely the way to go in summer,” says New York City makeup artist Ashunta Sheriff. “They’re incredibly light — they don’t feel at all like a heavy, additional layer — and they really help hold makeup in place.”
bag this season, now’s the perfect time to play up your makeup palette. Besides looking summery, “livelier colors brighten the face and bring a youthful glow to skin,” says Surratt. If you tend to stick with neutrals, experiment with just one area of your face. A punchy blush on the apples of the cheeks is a good place to start.
5. Stop shine and add glow.
4 Bright Eyeliner Colors to Try
A slick T-zone instantly telegraphs the message “I’m hot” — and we don’t mean sexy. To eliminate unsightly shine in seconds, nothing beats blotting papers. “They’re cheap, easy, and amazing — you just press and go,” says Sheriff. If you need to perk up your makeup too, blot first, then follow up with a dusting of pressed powder with a hint of luminescence. “You want to eliminate shine, but you still want to look a little glow-y, especially in summer,” says Surratt.
teal.
6. Switch out thick lipsticks.
If blazing cobalt seems a bit daunting, layer it over black or brown liner for a softer effect.
Since heavy lip colors often feel like overkill once the weather warms up, many women opt for clear balm or skip their lips altogether. But just because you’re feeling lowmaintenance doesn’t mean you have to look it. A simple swipe-and-go choice: tinted lip balms. “They give you whisper-light color, and many 3. Lighten your face makeup. “Just as you switch to breezy skirts even have SPF to protect you from the sun,” says Surratt. and linen blouses, dress your face with lighter makeup,” says Surratt. First step: Swap foundation for tinted 7. Go sheer. moisturizer. These sheer formulas look “Rich, deep colors have their and feel airier on skin and are less place, but they can look heavy in likely to turn cakey on steamy days. summer,” says Surratt. To lighten up, Surratt recommends brushing powder switch to sheer versions of your go-to foundation over the tinted moisturizer lip and eye hues. Use a lipliner prein spots where you need a little extra application if you need extra definition, coverage — say, on blemishes or but go for a nude shade to keep that areas of redness around your nose. carefree feeling, or try “invisible” lipliner, which deposits a clear, waxy film to stop color from bleeding. Bonus: 4. Try out vibrant color. Just as you’re probably more likely Because sheer colors are subtler, you almost can’t go overboard. to wear a vivid top or carry a bright
Shades with more blue than green. Play up the effect by pairing teal with pale eye shadow and lipstick.
blue.
green.
A smudged green line along the lashes “can be ethereal if it’s left alone or more dramatic when followed by a few coats of mascara.”
purple. Think of purple as the beginner’s bright liner: It’s universally flattering and, of all the jewel tones, appears the least shocking when worn in a bold design.
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All Makeup from NYX, Costal Scents, Two Faced & Bare Minerals. Wardrobe from Target, & Urban Outfitters. All Makeup by John Doe. All Hair Styling by Jane Doe.
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“Fun makeup in bright and pastel colors is a huge beauty trend for summer!�
Makeup from Costal Scents, Two Faced & Bare Minerals. Wardrobe from J.Crew, Forever21 & Urban Outfitters. Makeup by John Doe. Hair Styling by Jane Doe.
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Scared of neon? Don’t be! Neon is so versatile right now. You don’t have to wait to glow at night — this season, feel free to pop bright colors all day long. If you are a beginner, the secret is to choose one feature on your face to emphasize with vibrant colors. Using neon shades on more than one facial feature can make your look too dramatic and overwhelming. Browse, read below, and SHOP the best products to create vibrant makeup looks like a celebrity below! We can’t stop staring at the Urban Decay ELECTRIC Pressed Pigment Palette — the colors are so vibrant and inviting. The amount of looks you can create with the 10 electrifying neon colors are endless! The palette is perfect for everyone, no matter what color your eyes are, and they are guaranteed to pop. Applying contrasting colors (blues and oranges, reds and greens, yellows and purples) against each other will create intense and bright, dramatic looks. Blend complimentary colors and
shades in the same range for softer looks. Still feeling nervous about neons? Start out slowly and use one color as a liner to make your eyes pop, then experiment with a different color every time to find your favorite. For highly-pigmented, vibrant lips, we love BUTTER LONDON LIPPY Liquid Lipstick. The gloss comes in 12 different shade. Try this look, like Rihanna did with her neon purple lips, or to compliment your neon eyes. For beginners, remember, less is more. When choosing a lipstick to along with your neon eyes, it’s best to find a color that is in the same range of shade. When it comes to adding neon blush, things can get tricky. If you are wearing a dramatic eye, go softer on your cheeks. If you are rocking a bold lip, finding a similar shade of blush creates a beautiful glowing look, just like Demi Lovato did at the Gay Pride event in NYC. Some of our favorite shimmery blushes are NARS Blushes. There are 30 gorgeous shades to choose from to compliment your bright and fun look.
You don’t have to wait to glow at night - this season, feel free to pop bright colors all day long!
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Richard Avedon:
of
A PORTRAIT
an
ARTIST
Fahey Klein presents a major retrospective of the photographers work. By Kely Smith
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“All
photographs are accurate. None of them is the truth.” - Richard Avedon
W
hat do Jean Genet, Jimmy Durante, Brigitte Bardot, Georgia O’Keeffe, Jacques Cousteau, Andy Warhol, and Lena Horne have in common? They were a few of the many personalities caught on film by photographer Richard Avedon. For more than fifty years, Richard Avedon’s portraits have filled the pages of the country’s finest magazines. His stark imagery and brilliant insight into his subjects’ characters has made him one of the premier American portrait photographers. Born in New York in 1923, Richard Avedon dropped out of high school and joined the Merchant Marine’s photographic section. Upon his return in 1944, he found a job as a photographer in a department store. Within two years he had been “found” by an art director at Harper’s Bazaar and was producing work for them as well as Vogue, Look, and a number of other magazines. During the early years, Avedon made his living primarily through work in advertising. His real passion, however, was the portrait and its ability to express the essence of its subject. As Avedon’s notoriety grew, so did the opportunities to meet and photograph celebrities from a broad range of disciplines. Avedon’s ability to present personal views of public figures, who were otherwise distant and inaccessible, was immediately recognized by the public and the celebrities themselves. Many sought out Avedon for their most public images. His artistic style brought a sense of sophistication and authority to the portraits. More than anything, it is Avedon’s ability to set his subjects at ease that helps him create true, intimate, and lasting photographs. Throughout his career Avedon has maintained a unique style all his own. Famous for their minimalism, Avedon portraits are often well lit and in front of white backdrops. When printed, the images regularly contain the dark outline of the film in which the image was framed. Within the minimalism of his empty studio, Avedon’s subjects move freely, and it is this movement which brings a
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sense of spontaneity to the images. Often containing only a portion of the person being photographed, the images seem intimate in their imperfection. While many photographers are interested in either catching a moment in time or preparing a formal image, Avedon has found a way to do both. Beyond his work in the magazine industry, Avedon has collaborated on a number of books of portraits. In 1959 he worked with Truman Capote on a book that documented some of the most famous and important people of the century. Observations included images of Buster Keaton, Gloria Vanderbilt, Pablo Picasso, Dr. J. Robert Oppenheimer, Frank Lloyd Wright, and Mae West. Around this same time he began a series of images of patients in mental hospitals. Replacing the controlled environment of the studio with that of the hospital he was able to recreate the genius of his other portraits with non-celebrities. The brutal reality of the lives of the insane was a bold contrast to his other work. Years later he would again drift from his celebrity portraits with a series of studio images of drifters, carnival workers, and working class Americans. Throughout the 1960s Avedon continued to work for Harper’s Bazaar and in 1974 he collaborated with James Baldwin on the book Nothing Personal. Having met in New York in 1943, Baldwin and Avedon were friends and collaborators for more than thirty years. For all of the 1970s and 1980s Avedon continued working for Vogue magazine, where he would take some of the most famous portraits of the decades. In 1992 he became the first staff photographer for The New Yorker, and two years later the Whitney Museum brought together fifty years of his work in the retrospective, “Richard Avedon: Evidence”. He was voted one of the ten greatest photographers in the world by Popular Photography magazine, and in 1989 received an honorary doctorate from the Royal College of Art in London. Today, his pictures continue to bring us a closer, more intimate view of the great and the famous. Avedon died on October 1st, 2004.
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“I think charm is the ability to be truly interested in other people.� - Richard Avedon
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“My portraits are more about me than they are about the people I photograph.� - Richard Avedon
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You’re
So VAIN Vanities that make you swoon! Pinterest worthy makeup spaces and organization tips. By Hana Brenner-Katz
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An ever-growing cosmetic collection can be cause for celebration, yes. But it can also lead to chaos on your bathroom counter. Lipstick rolling onto the floor, blush spilling into the sink, missing mascara—chaos. Over the years we’ve tried to tame the makeup mayhem that comes with having a product obsession that simply can’t be quelled. Here are seven rules that will lead you to organizational bliss.
1. Pick Drawers over counter tops.
Store your makeup in drawers to keep it out of direct sunlight and away from life’s inevitable little messes. This will keep your counter space decluttered and preserve your favorite products.
2. Clean out and categorize.
There’s no use in organizing expired makeup, so sort everything into two piles: a save pile and a toss pile. There’s also no use in holding on to makeup you never wear. If you can’t remember the last time you used it, into the toss pile it goes. The save pile gets sorted into as many categories as you need. We recommend these eight: eye shadow; eyeliner, eye pencil and brow pencil; mascara; primer and foundation; concealer; powder, blush and bronzer; lipstick; lip gloss and lip liner. Feeling the urge to organize further? Split up the contents of each category by formula: liquid, cream and powder.
3. Save space with stackable containers.
Each product category should get its own compartment. Pick trays and boxes that fit together and stack easily. Bonus points if those containers are clear. You can find clear plastic organizers at any home improvement or beauty supply store. If you prefer the look of wooden or lacquered plastic containers, label your trays and dividers so you know exactly what is inside.
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4. Separate out what you use regularly.
Store your containers in order of what gets the most use. If you don’t wear eye shadow on a daily basis, don’t stack that tray on top. Pull out the products you use every day and make the top tray your “every day face.” That way your foundation, concealer, mascara, or whatever your essentials may be, will be easily accessible.
5. Store it so you can see it.
The only problem with staring into a sea of lipsticks is finding the shade you’re looking for. Store lipstick upside down so you can read the color name on the bottom. The same principle applies to powders, shadows and compacts. If the top is clear, store them right side up. If not, flip them over so you can see the label. Avoid stacking individual products on top of each other so you don’t have to dig for the shade you want.
6. Sort your brushes.
Brushes get divided into two categories: face and eyes. Keeping them separate will save you from losing your eyeliner brush in the bristles of your fluffy powder brushes. Store them standing upright in jars. Fill the bottom of each jar with coffee beans, rice or pebbles so the brush heads won’t touch each other.
7. Edit often.
Every six months or so, go through and edit out expired products and makeup you haven’t used since your last edit. Once a month, go through your trays and move those eye shadows–that have mysteriously taken up residency in the blush tray–back to their rightful home. Your monthly sweep is also the perfect time to clean your makeup brushes and tools.
If you keep your makeup on your desk or in your bathroom, it is time to find a makeup table that suits you, and your bedroom style, because you sure deserve it! But when it comes to makeup vanities, they are hard to find if you are picky. So just ask yourself, what is the type of vanity that you would like in your room? A simple hardwood desk? A mirror reflect desk? With or without drawers? Vintage or Modern style?
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the end
d o o g l l A t s u m s g . n i d n h t e n a o t e com r u . o s y t c n du Eve o r p te i r o . v e fa u s s i s i h t Or
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