Fashion paper web by Niczem Olaske

SUMMER ISSUE 2015

N o2

FREE PRESS

FAS H I O N P a per

24 HOURS IN MILAN

C i t y t i p s b y f as h i o n designer Arthur Arbesser

ICE-COLD PASSION

A hidden tea manufacturer in Berlin

LOBSTER À LA TIM RAUE Th e s t a r c h e f s h ar e s h i s s e c r e t r e c i p e

FASHION TALK

At the studio with designer Hien Le

Fashion follows function, so gear up for summer!

Now at your favorite shop or gaastrastore.com

What's Inside Splashy Sunlight

Colors in the crest of Florida’s waves

Time Traveling Through Tea

Editor's Note

But that’s far from everything we’ve planned: We’ll be canvasing street art in suburban Florida and take a dip in the waves of Miami Beach. Moving back to the familiar shores of Europe, we’ll meet a Berlin designer with Laotian roots, muse over Venice and get to know Italy’s fashion capital through Austrian-born and Milan-based designer, Arthur Arbesser. Along the way, we’ll have an extended stopover where you can kick your feet up and take some time for a little inward reflection. With just a touch of tongue-in-cheek humor, we ask the question whether detoxing is a remedy or cause for stress?...we’ll leave it up to you to decide. So, sit back, relax, let your burdens melt away and get ready to turn the page. Because what could be more relaxing than letting your eyes guide your mind on a ride through the pages of this large format magazine. This journey through the spring/summer fashions of 2015 has been booked especially for you, so enjoy the trip!

If you’re trying to figure out whether you should spend the summer in the city or head out to the beach, we have an easy answer for you. Do both! With the warm spring breeze already blowing away the stale winter blues, why should you restrict your holiday plans to a single option? Here at FASHION PAPER we’ve filled our calendar with day trips in the city and journeys to exotic locations in an effort to bring you the best of both worlds.

Visiting Berlin’s hidden gem ManuTeeFaktur

An afternoon on board Gaastra

Go Sees of the Day

New faces: Martin Bauendahl captures the talents of tomorrow

Miss Fashion Paper Herrlicher

Our second edition invites you to explore art in the depths of a Berlin bunker, dine on lobster with chef Tim Raue, and sail the coast of St. Tropez.

Sincerely, FASHION PAPER

Lobster Breton with Carrots and Butter A recipe by Berlin’s star chef Tim Raue

Wynwood Walls

Fontaine Burnett on Miami’s street art Mecca

Many Thanks to

Hien Le Fashion Talk At the studio with the Berlin designer

Ten Minutes with …

New York-based photographer Christophe Kutner on exploring America

Contemporary Issues: Detox your Guilt Complex A column by Sharon Welzel on stripping our soles

Milan Magic

Models Marcio Gomes, Floraine Desmaret Janny Gedorova Kiana Kaye Olivia Schutz, Amanda E. Mann, Manon Steel Vanessa Walther Ryan Lovelock Miss Fashion Paper: Jocelyn Hilgers

Togetherness in Italy’s fashion capital featuring fashion by McGregor

City Tips: Milan

Fashion designer Arthur Arbesser reveals his favorite spots

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Splashy Sunlight

Codello scarf silk cotton mix € 99 Chiemsee bikini Ivalu € 49 ic! Berlin sunglasses 67 Nixenstraße € 385

Codello scarf modal/polyester mix € 119 Herrlicher denim mini skirt Tessy € 70 ic! Berlin sunglasses Lucja € 375 Chiemsee bikini Ivette € 70

Codello scarf 100 % modal € 159

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Chiemsee bikini Ivette € 70 ic! Berlin sunglasses U1 Kotti € 300

Chiemsee bikini Edyta € 45

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Time Traveling Through Tea

Top: Partners in crime – while Manu Kumar is likely to be in the kitchen, his dog Anka is welcoming the customers. (Photographed by Marco Baass) Right: “Masala Chai” in the making, a flavored black tea with a mixture of aromatic Indian spices and herbs. (Photographed by Ira Hadzic)

recipe, they also tell a story. Here is a brief summary: Born to an Indian father and German mother, Kumar’s home was always open, filled with family, friends, and celebration. Life was full of travel, and—you guessed it— the ritual of tea. Throughout his life, Kumar felt it was only a matter of common sense and tradition to share his tea with those around him. As an artist and architect exploring his idea to create a co-working space with various start-ups and other artists, his tea sharing began to gain recognition in a big way. Kumar offers teas he has known how to make since childhood like Indian Masala Chai, as well as those he learned about through his travels like Kahwah, the traditional Kashmiri Chai with cardamom and rose pedals. Kumar’s teas not only tell a story, but also allow us to travel through time and space—whether it’s to that special memory of drinking tea at home; the moment Kumar grew the freshest mint or lemongrass you might have ever tasted; or the moment the ancient recipe was first concocted. Yes, what you see is what you get, but search a little further and a well of knowledge, history, inspiration and remarkable taste awaits. As for the future? While staying true to the heart of his product, Kumar plans to expand his list—with homemade favorites like Kombucha, Mate, fennel and Rooibos—along with the shops lucky enough to sell them.

Top: Keep calm, grab a cup, enjoy a tea break on site and carry on later. Right: Size does matter! The best way to drink the iced tea is by sharing a big bottle with friends. (Photographed by Ira Hadzic)

Written by Dahlia Stone

While love at first sight is a debatable phenomenon, love at first sip is real. Head over to ManuTeeFaktur to find out for yourself. The allure of tea: family gatherings, late night talks with friends, the times you were sick and your mother brought tea to your bedroom, that warm sip that makes Monday mornings significantly more pleasant. But few teas resonate in this way like Manu Kumar’s. So in a quest to understand what makes his homemade teas so delicious, we met with him at his “open when open” workplace located in a Kreuzberg courtyard. Kumar’s dog delivery boy, was sprawled out at the entrance, and all Kumar said was this: “What you see is what you get.” You may take his word for it, but sip the beautifully—almost pharmaceutical looking—hand stamped and bottled Tuareg Mint Tee and immediately understand what the hype is all about. Ask further and be prepared to want Kumar’s tea, and only Kumar’s tea all day, every day.

ManuTeeFaktur Paul-Lincke-Ufer 44A 2nd backyard 10999 Berlin-Kreuzberg Open when open manuteefaktur.com

The recipe that has led him to so much success: a good idea, a great deal of perseverance, fresh—as in cut, boiled, mixed and ground that very day—ingredients, care for tradition, commitment to the tea and all those who drink it, and a lot of love. Like any good recipe, these ingredients harmoniously create something of their very own; like any great

Top: Not just the tea, but the labels, too are handmade with love. (Photographed by Marco Baass) Left: Sunshine in a glass. Kumar‘s recipes bring back summer year-round. (Photographed by Manu Kumar)

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Venice Vacation MUUSE celebrates diversity: Like every other fashion brand, MUUSE has a team of designers working for them. Unlike others, however, this team is never the same. Every season the Danish collective supports a new range of young talents, giving them insights and assistance throughout the whole process from design conception to production. Inspired by principles of the Scandinavian cooperative movement, the team at MUUSE claims that working together yields stronger results and can even involve socio-political change. MUUSE offers a bright alternative in this tough world of fashion. Designer: Jolka Wiens for MUUSE Jacket, color: pale pink â&#x201A;Ź 425 Skirt â&#x201A;Ź 285

Photographed by Peter Page 10

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Designer: Huang Ting-Yun for MUUSE Top, color stitches € 205 Pants € 310

Designer: Louise Körner for MUUSE Blazer, color: pink earth € 390

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Designer: Louise Körner for MUUSE Dress, color: stone fall € 425

Designer: Louise Körner for MUUSE Dress, color: sky € 385

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Contemporary Art Haven in a Bunker Written by Lisa Kosak Photographed by Noshe

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Previous page: Klara Lidén, “Teenage Room,” 2009 Left: Danh Vo, “Numbers (6),” 2011 “Tri0,” 2010; “We the People (detail),” 2011

In Berlin, a city buzzing with art, one can easily get sidetracked hopping from one gallery opening to another. This may be the reason why many Berliners have never actually set foot in an art institution like “Sammlung Boros.” Surely everyone has heard of this place: a former bunker located in Berlin’s historical Mitte district, where Christian and Karen Boros exhibit their vast collection of contemporary art. Attending one of their guided tours is well worth the money spent and will feed all your senses.

from the early nineties up to the present time – created by 23 artists. Their first exhibition, appropriately named “Sammlung #1,” spanned from 2008 until 2012. Since then, the space has gone through an overhaul to host the second and current show “Sammlung #2.” Further into the tour, as you enter a room full of huge black buoys that are closely intertwined, you experience the wittily titled work “Clouds” by Michael Sailstorfer. His piece becomes interactive when visitors meander through tightly floating rubber clouds. Finding your way out can become tricky. Every level of the bunker has its own soundscape, while some overlap: Kwade’s ticking clock, Sailstorfer’s endlessly spinning car tire, and Thomas Zipp’s bell resonates throughout the entire building. For other senses, for example, taste and smell, yet another piece by Sailstorfer will undoubtedly satisfy you. Your nose will lead you to his popcorn machine as the enticing smell drifting through the air. However, do only go for the freshly popped ones, since the machine has not been turned off since 2012. The guides choose the works they want to focus on and give their personal interpretation on them, making every visit a unique tour. Besides big names like Ai Wei Wei, most artists exhibited here are Berlin-based. This allows many of the artists to personally install their work or create site-specific pieces, such as Manon Awst & Benjamin Walther’s “Latent Measures (Component 17)” and “Line of Fire,” a bronze arrow planted into the wall across a unique hole open to the outside world. The 80 rooms in the bunker allow each artist to appropriate the space. “This building is a landmark, a part of German history,” Christian Boros once stated in Der Spiegel magazine. Indeed, a lot of history is kept behind the two-meter thick concrete walls. Initially built as an air raid shelter between 1942 and 1943, it was converted into a tropical fruit warehouse during the GDR-era, which gave the building its nickname “banana bunker.” In the nineties, it became notorious for hosting hardcore fetish and techno parties until finally it was acquired in 2003 by Christian and

Left: The “Boros Bunker” as Berliners refer to it, located in the heart of Berlin’s Mitte district. Top: Art oblige! Showing their collection to the public is a duty for Christian and Karen Boros.

Karen Boros to house his extensive art collection. Together with the architects, they decided to keep some traces of the building’s past. Throughout your visit, you will notice that the walls still bear witness to the lives that passed through this structure. For example, you’ll find countless bullet holes and indentations that remain in the exterior walls, and fluorescent pink graffiti from the techno club era, giving it a subversive touch. As the guide explains, we are not visitors but guests here. In fact, Karen and Christian Boros turned the bunker into not only a home for their collection but actually built a penthouse for them to live in on the fifth floor. The current exhibition will run until summer, 2016. Then, the artwork that is currently on view will be taken back to storage, to give way to yet another selection from the Boros Collection. In the rush of today’s world, the beauty of the Boros Collection perhaps lies in the fact that it is located in this bunker, secluded from the outside world. You won’t find yourself coming here for the crowd or the buzz, but in order to take your time to enjoy art for art’s sake.

Ai Weiwei, “Tree,” 2009-2010

Upon entering Sammlung Boros, you immediately embark on a sensory journey starting with an installation by the young Polish artist Alicja Kwade entitled “The Day without Yesterday (Dimension 1-11).” Eleven black curved steel plates and a microphone in front connect to the neon tubes above, creating parallel dimensions. Surrounded by the subtle humming sound of the light, your reflections on the steel plates constantly keep changing – it’s all about deception. Kwade’s work is one of more than 700 artworks that owners Christian Boros, an art collector and advertising mogul, and his wife Karen, an art historian, have collected over the years. The current exhibition features 130 works – all ranging

Please note: Tours accompanied by one of the in-house guides only Left: Thomas Ruff, “Stern 13h 18m/-60°,” 1992 “Stern 10h 51m/-20°,” 1992, “Stern 05h 08m/-65°,” 1990 Top: Manon Awst & Benjamin Walther “Latent Measures (Component 17),” 2011

sammlung-boros.de

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From St.Tropez to Club 55 on 12mR Yacht Trivia with Gaastra. 20

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Fashion by GAASTRA Man Jacket: Mineral € 180 Sweater: Cool € 100 Jeans: Cutter Oakland € 140 Woman Jacket: Mineral € 180 Shirt: Marlinspike € 60 Scarf: Mermaid € 50 Jeans: Isla Augustina € 140

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Fashion by GAASTRA Man Shirt: Whelkie € 100, Sweater: Trodely Island € 100 Woman Sweat jacket: Michele € 120, Blouse: Whip € 80

A beautiful sailing day…

Fashion by GAASTRA Sweater: Smile € 150 Top: Sandhopper € 60 Jeans: Jadan Melbourne Slim € 100

Fashion by GAASTRA Man Shirt: Wash € 140 Woman Shirt: San Andres € 40

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Fashion by GAASTRA Woman Jacket: Southwest Cay € 270 Sweater: Smile € 150 Top: Sandhopper € 60 Pants: Jadan Melbourne Slim € 100 Man Jacket: Sailmaker € 500 Pants: Cutter Oakland Harbour € 140

Fashion by GAASTRA T-shirt: Canal € 80 Shorts: Cutter Oakland Short € 120

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Fashion by GAASTRA Sweater: Sail € 100 Jeans: Isla Vero € 130 Cap: Jollies Cap € 40 Bag: Shipsail bag € 80

Fashion by GAASTRA Shirt: Watson € 90 Shorts: Cutter Oakland Short € 120 Belt: Beacon Belt € 70

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Lunch at Club 55 – what a day! Fashion by GAASTRA Man Shirt: Waterline € 80 Woman Dress: Sun Sailor € 90 Belt: Leech Belt € 40 Hat: Superior hat € 50

Fashion by GAASTRA Woman Dress: Palma Tunic € 70 Man Shirt: Napoli € 80 Swimtrunk Sky € 40

Fashion by GAASTRA Man: Sweater: Canary Ottoman €140

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Go Sees of the Day

Bianca Gittens louisa-models.de

Photographed by Martin Bauendahl

John Francis modelwerk.de

Anna Ewers model-management.de

Noemie Lenoir

Maria Port

model-management.de

Ebony

model-management.de

Bell ringing is daily business for models and photographers alike. The first are looking for paid jobs, the latter for a top model to be. Throughout his 22-year long career, Hamburg-based Martin Bauendahl has seen hundreds of new faces. For FASHION PAPER he introduces us to six emerging talents. 32

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modelwerk.de

bauendahl.com goseeoftheday.com

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Miss Fashion Paper

Top: Felia, color offwhite € 45 Jeans: Piper slim € 110 Denim jacket: Joplin € 130

Photographed by Peter Page 37

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Shorts: Touch shorty €70 Denim jacket: Joplin € 130

Top: Gesa, color white € 40 Denim vest: Janis € 110

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Denim vest: Janis € 110 Jeans: Touch slim, color white € 100

Top: Despina, color mentos € 40 Jeans: Touch € 110

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mcgregorstore.com

Ingredients and preparation for four:

Lobster 1

Dashi vinegar

Studio Tim Raue Rheinsberger Str. 76/77 10115 Berlin factoryberlin.com/studio

4 cl

+49 30 44310950

Lobster Breton with Carrots and Butter Recipe by Tim Raue

Lobster Breton à 800 -1000 grams Dip the lobster into the boiling water with the head first; take out after 3 minutes. Break off the claws and put it back into the water for 3 more minutes. Let all parts cool off in salted water. Break the shell and split into 4 pieces. Put them into the oven at 70° C for 20 minutes.

Lunch Tue–Fri 12-14h Dinner Tue–Sat 18.30-21.30h

Dashi vinegar Cold juice thickener Bind the vinegar by adding cold juice binder until the consistency is like syrup.

Carrot puree 200 g carrots, pealed and cut into pieces 90 g butter 10 ml orange oil Vacuum all the ingredients in a bag. Cook in a water bath at 85° C for 4 hours. Mix in blender for 10 minutes, until you get a smooth paste.

Arrangement 8 tbsp 20 pc 4 tsp 12

Tim Raue is a Berlin native and a trained chef who runs four restaurants. He currently holds two Michelin stars for his eponymous restaurant. His latest addition is called Studio Tim Raue. The restaurant’s menu changes every three months and you can opt for four, six or ten courses. The current menu, available until April, is inspired by Japan. A Thai-inspired menu will follow.

Photographed by Nils Hasenau

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clarified butter coriander stems 1,5 cm in length each passion fruit seeds square slices of ginger 1x1 cm each

The Wynwood Walls Written by Fontaine Burnett

Wynwood is a neighborhood north of downtown Miami. The neighborhood is home to roughly 15,000 residents, 60% of which are of Hispanic descent. In the 1950s a large influx of immigrants from Puerto Rico began moving into the area. Today, due to its large Puerto Rican population, it is often referred to as “Little San Juan” or “El Barrio.” Wynwood is divided into three sub-districts: the Fashion District, the Technology District, and the Art District. It is the latter that has become the driving cultural and economic force in the area. Previously, Wynwood was an unspectacular collection of abandoned warehouses and dilapidated buildings. Yet in more recent years it has been transformed into a Mecca of the visual arts and home to some of the most exciting young street artists in the world. The catalyst behind this sweeping change was real estate mogul and city developer Tony Goldman (b. 1943 – d. 2012). Goldman was already a legendary real estate developer by the time he decided to invest in Wynwood in 2004. His uncanny, visionary knack for metamorphosing urban wastelands into culturally rich and economically profitable neighborhoods garnered him much fame. He made an instrumental contribution to the development of 13th Street in Philadelphia, South Beach in Miami, and was widely known for his investments in the SoHo area of New York in the 1970s, where he likely had his first contact with street art. Goldman discovered Wynwood in 2004 and was attracted to its massive, block-long, windowless warehouses. He envisioned a colorful, artistic landscape of murals, installations, cafes, and commercial spaces at a time when others could only see abandoned and decaying buildings. Goldman began buying property in the area with the long-term plan of re-animating the waning Wynwood Arts District. To assist him in realizing this dream he contracted the help of friend, gallery owner and former director of the Museum of Contemporary Art in Los Angeles, Jeffrey Deitch. In 2009 Deitch and Goldman had the idea to adorn the large warehouses with eye-popping murals from some of the most important street artists of our time. This event was organized to coincide with Miami’s annual Art Basel festivities. Deitch, a long-standing advocate of street art, used his connections to secure a roster of artists guaranteed to capture the attention of the art community. Artists such as Kenny Scharf, Shepard Fairey, Ron English and Retna were among the first to be invited to grace the warehouses with their creations. The project was widely celebrated and the Wynwood Walls were born.

In the dime stores and bus stations, people talk of situations, read books, repeat quotations, draw conclusions on the wall. Bob Dylan

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The Wynwood project represents a unique opportunity for street artists to present their work. Here, there is no danger of being charged with vandalism and contrary to the simple hanging of paintings on gallery walls, Wynwood allows artists to work in an over-sized format without losing the urban context from which street art lives. Indeed, the Wynwood Walls are alive. Walking through the area becomes an immersive experience with eye-candy at every turn. Expansive, abstract landscapes, cartoon-like figures, fantasy animals and gritty urban scenes all melt into a kaleidoscopic feast for the imagination. A list of the creators of these murals reads like a catalog of comic book heroes, with names as colorful and fantastic as their creations: Futura, Daze, KASHINK, Miss Van, the legendary Lady Pink ... and many others. In 2010 following the success of the Wynwood Walls, Goldman decided to make even more space available to the rapidly growing list of artists Carla H Krueger wanting to participate in the project. The Wynwood Doors were soon brought to life. In addition, Goldman initiated the “Outside the Walls” program where much of the space outside the original walls has been transformed into an exhibition area. Weekly and monthly art walks help visitors learn more about the project and the artists.

Blank walls are a shared canvas and we’re all artists.

Key to the success of the Walls is the presence of culinary and shopping opportunities. Goldman had learned with his other development projects how important it is to create a buzz in a neighborhood by increasing foot traffic. The most effective way to do this is by offering a variety of restaurants. The Wynwood Kitchen & Bar and Joey’s (named after Goldman’s son) were the first of the eateries to be built, soon followed by more than seven restaurants to satisfy the hunger of visitors. Goldman was also apparently aware that if you build it, they will come. Since the debut of the Wynwood Walls, more and more developers have been investing in the area. Artist lofts, performance venues, pop-up shops and over 70 galleries have been created, thus cementing the Wynwood Arts District as one of the most active and vibrant art scenes worldwide.

Dress : Sina Print navy silk with print layer underneath € 351

Wynwood Walls

Photographed by Peter Page

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Dress: Sina Basic Mesh € 169 Sunglasses: ic! Berlin, 67 Nixenstraße € 385

Shirt : Ava with fish print € 234 Skirt : Paula Mini with fish print € 299 Sunglasses: ic! Berlin, Samstag € 300

with fashion by Hien Le

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Dress : Sina Sleevless mint coated cotton dress € 273 Shoes Mule Heel € 234 Sunglasses: ic! Berlin

Hien Fashion

Le Talk

Among the many upcoming German designers, Hien Le is surely one of the most promising. Born in Laos, he grew up in Kreuzberg, and studied fashion at HTW before starting his own business in 2010. Since then the Hien Le brand has become a regular feature on Berlin’s Fashion Week runway and in retailers worldwide. Here is a talk we had over pizza in his quiet backyard atelier in Kreuzberg.

FASHION PAPER: It’s so quiet here. What’s your studio like in the daytime? Hien Le: It’s just me and two interns. Just before fashion week when there’s more to do and time is tight, a friend helps me out and another freelancer. And then there’s the people at the workshops of course, where I have my orders made. So it’s usually just you?! Exactly. I always expect myself to complete most of the work, and I still sew most of the pieces for the show collections myself. How do you begin working on a collection? I make sketches and then I start creating trials in nettle. Then we do a first fitting where adjustments are made in the patterns before sewing the actual fabric you will later see in stores. What’s the best moment for you when creating a collection? The first fitting of a style in the actual fabric! It’s the moment when the vision finally comes to life. How many pieces did you create for your 2015 fall/winter collection? Around 55 pieces. Sounds like a huge task for just three people … The nights before showing my first collections I wouldn’t get a chance to sleep. But that doesn’t happen anymore. Now, like with Fashion Week Berlin, the collection is ready one or two days before. How does it feel when you stand back and look at the company “Hien Le”? I see progress – little steps becoming a bigger brand. Sometimes working on a collection feels a little like I’m back in the days when I was completing my graduate collection. But it’s more professional in the way I collaborate with a stylist for my show and organize the lookbook. And then there’s this goal: selling the collection. From an outside perspective, creating the new collection in time for the show seems like the biggest task. But what’s the actual challenge for you?

Working on three to four collections at the same time. The collection I showed last summer is being sewn at the moment, so there’s a lot of communication with the workshops and the fabric houses. The styles I’ve just presented during Berlin Fashion Week have now been shot for the lookbook and I’m about to leave for Paris to market the collection. And in February I visited a fair in Munich to source fabrics for next season. This time, looking at all the swatches I felt I wasn’t ready yet. I like finishing one thing before I move on.

come in to look at my collection and learn I am from Berlin, they find the combination even more exciting. But I have to say, most of my stockists are in Germany! It’s been said that people in Germany don’t buy German fashion, but that’s not really true. Do you think the perception of German fashion has changed in recent years? Yes. People are much more interested in young brands from Berlin than they used to be. You have become your own brand. What does it feel like selling your name? I am the person behind the brand. It’s my enterprise and it’s me, but it’s not about selling myself. It’s about what I’m creating. How important are blogs for your business? I am following some and I can actually see enhanced traffic on my web shop and increasing sales once a popular blogger has uploaded a post related to my fashion. Instagram in particular is becoming more important for brands. What’s your experience so far? I had one shop following me on Instagram for a year before the owners actually started to buy my collection. It’s a tool for them to “watch” me, and for me to see who might be a potential client. But I also discover other labels there. How many followers do you have? Around 3,000 by now but I see it growing after each Fashion Week.

Now that you’re about to take off to Paris, what’s your state of mind? I’m excited and curious to see which styles will be ordered. Of course I meet my colleagues there and we talk business too. But it also feels a little like going on a school trip together.

Among your pictures is one of Kottbusser Tor, a popular spot but not particularly beautiful. But many people hearted it anyway. What did this post mean to you? It’s my home! I’ve lived in this area all my life after coming to Berlin. Kreuzberg is where I live. And yes, many more people liked it compared to pictures of products.

The “Berlin Showroom,” where you’re presenting your collection in Paris, is a platform for designers based in Berlin. How does it compare with the others? I think it needs a little more time. The “London Showroom,” that took a while to become established as well. In the beginning I was skeptical if a showroom full of new talent from Berlin would work, but from day one I got orders from shops I hadn’t even met with before.

Speaking of pictures, do you have a single image in mind when creating a collection? Yes. A collection should eventually become one image, but my image. I am not thinking about its perception later. My show is never about “show pieces” that gain attention. It needs to form a perfect image for me – the whole collection. It’s one flow. There are people who criticize that, the lack of excitement. But you can’t judge fashion by a picture you have seen. You have to feel and experience it.

Speaking to other designers, it feels like the label “Berlin” is almost a burden for some. How does it feel for you? It’s partly true. Presenting my first collection, I had clients asking me where I was from. After telling them I was from Berlin they said they’d wait to see if I was going to come back for the next seasons, because they had ordered Berlin designers before that had given up quickly. Shops are seeking long-term relationships. But on the other hand, I have seen many new shops go down too.

What’s your goal for 2015? To get some more shops to buy my collection and participate in some exciting collaborations.

Do buyers from Asia show a particular interest in your work? They are interested in everything coming from Berlin. But when they see me in the showroom looking like them, they often just walk past. But then once they

And what’s the last thing you will do after this long day? Scrolling my Instagram account before going to bed. And it will be the first thing I do in the morning. hien-le.com

Interviewed by Nina Trippel Photographed by Kirsten Becken

Coco and Marcel Photographed by Christophe Kutner christophekutner.com

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Ten Minutes with ... Christophe Kutner

was his decision and not a marketing rule. If a big multinational company like Dior is taken over by someone who is an expert in champagne [LVMH] who has no clue about fashion or any culture at all … It’s possible that he knows a lot about numbers, but that’s all. Today it feels like everybody is doing the same because the same companies are making the rules. That was when I realized I am not doing the same job anymore. What happened next? I had radicalized myself. I believe in the possibility of an alternative system existing in fashion. Glamour is not Paris Hilton surrounded by paparazzi. Glamour can be going on a trip into the woods with friends and experimenting with everything - with your sexuality, for instance. I am trying to create a bridge between my work as a fashion photographer and this more natural approach. Why this radical approach – in a world where everything is said to be possible? It’s the opposite: the fashion industry is very closed on itself and not really open to alternatives and experiments. The creatives in this industry don’t take too many risks because they fear bad consequences and this is killing it. How much do you claim to be realistic or authentic in your work? In one of your pictures we see a kid running with a gun – is this set up or part of his reality? The series you are talking about called “Modern Lovers” was a campaign for a big jeans brand I shot in a castle in Normandy. They wanted to be a bit shocking. If I need this aesthetic, I do street casting mixed with B models, for instance. The imperfection makes the series more authentic. Then you need the right balance to make it fashionable.

He’s made it to the top. His photographs have appeared in Vogue and in campaigns for high-end brands like Mercedes-Benz and Versace. Though his life may sound glamorous, he keeps his work authentic, using real locations and shooting in a documentary style. Perhaps it is much more than simply style: it has almost become an obsession. We chatted with the New York-based photographer about his road trip and the “real” America.

What are you working on right now? For two years, I have been working on an ongoing project. Sort of a road trip called lostandfounddiary.com. I want to create portraits of every state in the United States. I meet different people, see different places. The people that can be seen in the pictures are people I’ve met. Sometimes friends of friends, and some of them contacted me on Facebook. Meeting them and spending time together creates a sort of intimacy. You experience things together, and adventures happens. What is it you are trying to show? I want to show the real face of America. Right now, I’ve been to 15 states but I want to make it to 50. I think many foreigners have a limited picture of the U.S., basically they imagine it being New York, Hollywood, L.A. But the States are totally different from that. That’s why the series is called “The State of the United States.” Tell us about your most vivid impressions of America! If you hit the road from New York to L.A., that’s over 7,000 km. What you see are a lot of people living in trailers. There are little wooden houses falling apart, the neon signs of the gas stations. This project is as well a counterpart to the sometimes general anti-American attitude many Europeans have. The U.S. is more than their politics, it’s the people and the places with such an amazing diversity. I am trying to work as much as possible on this project. I got addicted to it because I can see the opportunity to create a timeless piece here.

FASHION PAPER: You’ve worked with celebrities like Charlotte Gainsbourg, Sophie Dahl and Eve just to name a few. A huge portfolio … Christophe Kutner: I have been working as a photographer since 1994. That’s a long time . I’m 50 now. I think until the early 2000s I’ve been a fashion photographer with a certain idea of glamour. Then things changed. What change are you referring to? Things have changed strangely since September 11. Before, the designers were more independent. Romeo Gigli had a romantic look, because it was “in” to be romantic. Working with soft light

Interviewed by Sharon Welzel

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Contemporary Issues

“good deal” and it truly is, if you compare it to a Ayurveda detoxification treatment which could easily easily cost you 7990 euros. By the way, It would seem the payment process is part of the treatment. Some people call the body a temple and swiping your card could be seen as a modern sacrifice in this case – a donation to the holy spirits. You can also stick the patches on other parts of your body by the way: elbows, stomach, back – basically anywhere. They will probably also get something brownish out of you, that your body obviously couldn’t get rid of on it’s own. The term detox means: you can get rid of all the harmful things you are threatening your body with day by day. A promise we’d love to believe in – even though it is lacking a scientific basis. In fact, there is no such waste, piling up in the body. If the body needs to get rid off something, well, it simply does. In Germany the beauty industry has kidnapped the word “Schlacken” or slags in English and the verb “entschlacken” which could be translated to de-slagging. The words are used throughout all publications and ads dealing with wellness, though according to its original meaning slags are a side product of ore smelting. Ore smelting? Not in my temple! Well, yes: Because “body waste” sounds a lot like trash. To get rid of slags seems like a task you could never cope with on your own. That’s why we are in need of products to help you: a shampoo, a scrub, medicinal tea or a sticky patch. The non-commercial organization „Sense about Science“ tested 15 Detox-products and all of them were classified as completely ineffective. But what sells them is our guilt complex. We are feeling guilty towards our body therefore we strive to make amends for last night’s burger, although there was some home-made vegetable soup left in the fridge. For too many long-drinks last weekend. For the permanent lack of sleep, the gym that we pay for, but rarely go to. So we’re swallowing bitter pills and bathing ourselves in pricey essences. Why? You’re asking. Because we are missing rituals in our everyday lives. Rituals that would turn us into balanced people, but establishing them, would mean: work and will power. Too exhausting! Any extra obligation besides, doing the job, cleaning the house and taking care of the kids, feels like a threat. We are victims. Victims of advertising, the industry, of our own guilt, of ourselves. And eventually the moment of guilt will get us all. Inevitably at the wrong time. While practicing the “fire exercise” in your yoga class for example. “What am I doing here?” , you might ask yourself, while spending a lot of money sitting cross-legged in an expensive resort on Mallorca...in order to learn how to breathe in staccato. What you could be doing is taking a deep breath instead – every day. But what’s more important is to make yourself feel better just for an instant: The Currywurst stand on the way home. Lots of sauce with who-the-hell-knows-whatkind-of-evil-ingredients will soothe you. Does it matter? Tomorrow you’ll get rid of the evil spirits...and the sauce. Thanks to a little white patch on your feet.

Detox Your Guilt Complex Feeling a little out of balance? Sleeping with patches on could be the answer–maybe. And wouldn‘t it be great to rid your body of all its toxins over-night? Sharon Wenzel unmasks the latest beauty trends. According to Chinese Medicine 360 acupuncture points can be found on the human body and 60 of them are located on the soles of your feet. This is useful information for the beauty industry; Companies in Japan, Korea and China have already picked up on it. Self-adhesive detox patches to put on the soles of your feet have become a drugstore best-seller. The patches, made of a concoction based on bamboo vinegar, are meant to stimulate specific points on your soles while you are asleep. Good in theory. Just stick a couple of patches on your feet at night right before you dive between your nice white sheets. Upon waking however, you’ll have to face the dirty truth. In this case the truth is a slimy brown mass to be scratched from your soles. One might find this a little surprising...or rather disgusting, but the aim of the procedure is to make you feel pure and light. All the evil stuff that your cells had stored throughout time has left your body and been magically transferred from your innards onto the pad. A good feeling – it just comes with a rotten smell. Users of the pads are enthusiastically praising their quiet, restful sleep and significant increase in energy. What better way to expend the new found energy than placing an order for more patches? A pack of 20 (enough for ten days) cost roughly 79 euros; a minimum of twenty days treatment is suggested, lest one sees little result . Fans of the treatment, however, call it a

Written by Sharon Welzel

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Magic Milan Fashion by Mc Gregor Woman Shirt: Nora Oversize Blouse € 100 T-shirt: Harper Top € 70 Pants: Verona Tiani Pants € 80 Man Shirt: Sandee Mac Pherson € 100 Pants: Ryan William € 90

Fashion by Mc Gregor Woman Dress: Mary € 140 Man Cardigan: Alby Cricket Cardi € 130 Denim: Argyle Shirt € 90 Chino: Ryan William € 90 Belt: Franny € 40

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Fashion by Mc Gregor Woman Sweater: Glendale Stripe Pull € 130 Polo: Vivian Basic Polo € 80 Man Sweater: Carlton Cricet Pull € 130 Shirt: Dino Dino € 60 Tie: Betts € 40

Fashion by Mc Gregor Leather jacket: Adrianna € 300 Shirt: Southest Days Tee € 40 Skirt: Audriana € 90

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Shopping A recommendation for clothes shopping is Frip, located at Porta Ticinese, and Wait and See in the cozy old 5Vie district. Frip: Corso di Porta Ticinese 16, frip.it Wait and See: Via Santa Marta 14, waitandsee.it

Photo: Courtesy of Casa-Museo Boschi Di Stefano

Culture My favorite museum is Casa-Museo Boschi di Stefano, displaying Italian art from the 20th century. Via Giorgio Jan 15 fondazioneboschidistefano.it

24 Hours in Milan

inspiration Galleria Nilufar features the most exquisite interiors – offering a great place to dream. Via della Spiga 32, nilufar.com

Vienna-born fashion designer Arthur Arbesser has chosen Milan as the headquarters for his eponymous brand. For FASHION PAPER, the up-and-coming designer reveals his favorite spots in the city. arthurarbesser.com

Nightlife For drinks in the evening, I love classics like Bar Basso, La Belle Aurore or Capetown. Bar Basso: Via Plinio 39, barbasso.com La Belle Aurore: Via Privata Giuseppe Abamonti 1 Capetown: Via Vigevano 3

dining Well, the list is endless, but always great is Osteria dei Poeti.

Fashion by Mc Gregor Shirt: Disty Sebastian € 90 T-shirt: Cody McG Tee € 30 Jeans: Roma Stretch McWilliam € 100 Jacket: Brods Campbell € 190

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Contributors

Sharon Welzel

Christophe Kutner

Fontaine Burnett

She has Sri Lankan roots but is a Hamburger at heart. Welzel is also a Jack-of-all-trades working as a writer, editor, stylist and also doing trend analysis for big companies. Basically—Welzel is in the know. That’s why she’s well aware that sole patches, the latest beauty trend from Asia, are no carte blanche to holism. Get in the know, too. elel.biz

He assisted photography legends like Horst P. Horst and was absorbing the work of Larry Clark, before developing his distinct style that lead to various commissions for magazines like Vogue. But fashion is just one side of his photographic story. New York-based Kutner is currently working on a sociological mammoth project: photographing the United States – yes, all of them. That’s why it was rather tough to have him take “10 minutes” off for FASHION PAPER. christophekutner.com

Fontaine Burnett is an active musician, producer, photographer, journalist and father. His various creative endeavors have taken him around the globe, but it’s the NorthernGerman countryside that this American expatriate likes to call home. He is currently putting together material for his second studio album due for release later this year. fontaine-burnett.de

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Publisher Nancy de la Paz Editors Peter Paech Nina Trippel Coordination Ines Fengler Production Team FASHIONPAPER

Writers Fontaine Burnett Lisa Kosak Dahlia Stone SharonWelzel

Design StudioHausherr.com Sven Hausherr Max Winter Carmen Reina

Copy Editing Rei Matsuoka Ben Barlow

Post-production Matthias Gabriel Print Lehmann Offsetdruck, Hamburg 100 % recycled paper

Proofreading Yasha Wallin Ben Barlow

Fonts Beausite, fatype.com Freight, garagefonts.com

Headquarters de la Paz Publishing UG Mittelweg 126 20148 Hamburg +49 40 7880 7581 office@fashionpaper.de fashionpaper.de Cover Photographed by Peter Page Fashion: Hien Le Sunglasses: ic! Berlin

Twenty Six

Bar & Restaurant Mittelweg 26 20148 Hamburg +49 40 55 89 37 73 twentysix-restaurant.de

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