FASHION FOCUS WOMAN evening.cocktail - autumn winter 18.19 - N.5 SIX MONTHLY REVIEW - €59,00 ITALY
.5
wo man aw. 1 8 .19
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MOSCHINO
PUBLISHER AND DISTRIBUTOR PUBLISH FOR SRL Via Montenero 4/2A 40131 Bologna, Italy staff @publish-for.com www.fashionfocusmag.com EDITOR-IN-CHARGE Lidia Casari staff @publish-for.com GRAPHIC DESIGN Marco Burzoni DISTRIBUTION MANAGER Silvia Bottini distribution@publish-for.com SUBSCRIPTIONS MANAGER Luciana Palmulli subscriptions@publish-for.com ADVERTISING marketing@publish-for.com TAP GRAFICHE SRL POGGIBONSI (SI), ITALY APRIL 2018
t a time when the professional fashion sector is constantly looking for new inputs and inspirational sources that are able to optimize the creative research and the design of new collections, the Fashion Focus series confirms itself as an essential tool to deepen the trend analysis of each specific product category when it comes to women's wardrobe; the wide range of titles can guarantee a complete and exhaustive vision of all the style variations and the new models presented by the international designers, who are the protagonists of the most prestigious fashion weeks on a global level. From Milan to Paris, from New York to Madrid and Barcelona, the Autumn/Winter 2018-19 season highlights the desire for an eclectic wardrobe that is not strictly connected to the concept of "gender", in which the male and female outfits alternate on the catwalk seamlessly, creating a creative unicum that aims to redefine not only lines and volumes, but also color palettes and decorative elements considered up to now as true stylistic taboos. We should not be surprised, therefore, if this new idea of feminine wearability brings to the limelight outerwear pieces with a rigid and intentionally oversized structure, ultra-tech details that recall the world of sport competitions, massive footwear with exaggerated platforms, sartorial asymmetries. Between re-tradition and revolutionary visions that look to the future, everything is fluid and hybrid, subject to a new definition of the style that will come.
I
n un momento in cui il settore della moda professionale è alla continua ricerca di nuovi input e materiali d’ispirazione che possano ottimizzare la ricerca creativa e la progettazione delle collezioni, la collana Fashion Focus si conferma uno strumento indispensabile per approfondire l’analisi delle tendenze di ogni specifica categoria di prodotto del guardaroba femminile, garantendo una visione completa ed esauriente di tutte le varianti stilistiche e i nuovi modelli presentati dagli stilisti internazionali, protagonisti delle fashion week più prestigiose a livello globale. Da Milano a Parigi, da New York fino a Madrid e Barcellona, la stagione Autunno/Inverno 2018-19 mette in luce in maniera sempre più evidente la voglia di un guardaroba eclettico e non strettamente connesso al concetto di “genere”, in cui gli outfit maschili e femminili si alternano in passerella senza soluzione di continuità, creando un unicum creativo che punta a ridefinire non solo linee e volumi, ma anche gamme cromatiche ed elementi decorativi considerati fino ad oggi come veri e propri tabù stilistici. Non ci si dovrà stupire, quindi, se questa nuova idea di vestibilità femminile porta alla ribalta capi spalla dalla struttura rigida e volutamente oversize, dettagli ultra-tecnici che richiamano il mondo dell’agonismo sportivo, calzature massicce dai platform esagerati, asimmetrie sartoriali. Tra ripescaggi della tradizione e visioni rivoluzionarie che guardano al futuro, tutto è fluido e ibrido, soggetto a una nuova definizione dello stile che verrà.
evening.cocktail contents
72 FLOATING FRINGES
FEATURED IN THIS ISSUE: MILAN, PARIS, NEW YORK, LONDON
Autumn.Winter 18.1 9
6 SEQUINS & BEADS
28 TRANSPARENCY
80 LACE COUTURE
92 Needlework
42 VELVET TOUCH
54 RUFFLES & FRILLS
104 PLEATED PERFECTION
112 ETHEREAL TULLE
64 CARVED OUT
Fashion Focus EVENING.COCKTAIL
4
5
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18 39,46,50,65 30 21,24,36 73,74,75,76 69 49 55,62,67,105 45,118 33,38,60,87,88,99 11 15,20,102,114,115 11,23,24,28,29,68,69,120 15,32,115,117,118,121 29,33,58,76,77,82,83,88 59,61,81,86,100,106,107,108 33,43,45,46,49 44,47,51,84,85 60 20 121 37,78,89,120 31,33,55,62,78,121 67 49 22,39,50,61,95,102,116 14,21,66,83,87,101 24,88,89 74 50,109 97 66,67 10,68,69 45,51 101 18,24,25,68,71,75,101 17,62,97,117 95,96 10,16,19,24,56,57,60,100 97 12,26,40,57,83 34 8 7,18,19 13,40,46,47,48,49,52 54,55,58,61,84,89,99 67 24,25 48,98 100,101 79
GENNY GIAMBATTISTA VALLI GIORGIO ARMANI GIVENCHY GUCCI HALPERN JASON WU JOHN GALLIANO KENZO KRISTINA FIDELSKAYA LANVIN LAURA BIAGIOTTI LEANNE MARSHALL LUISA BECCARIA MARNI MARY KATRANTZOU MICHAEL KORS MOSCHINO N°21 NAEEM KHAN OFF WHITE OLIVIER THEYSKENS OSCAR DE LA RENTA PACO RABANNE PETER PILOTTO PHILOSOPHY DI LORENZO SERAFINI PICCIONE.PICCIONE POIRET PRABAL GURUNG PREEN BY THORNTON BREGAZZI RALPH & RUSSO RICHMOND ROBERTO CAVALLI ROCHAS ROKSANDA SIMONE ROCHA SON JUNG WAN STELLA MCCARTNEY TADASHI SHOJI TEATUM JONES TEMPERLEY LONDON TOM FORD TOMMY HILFIGER TORY BURCH TRUSSARDI VALENTINO VERSACE VIONNET VIVETTA VIVIENNE TAM Y/PROJECT
37 11,56,58,93,94 12,51 21,22,75,77,82,110 17,18,71,107 19 114,12 30,32,38,52 18,19 34 35 69 29,71,81,108,109 56,57,59,92,93,98,99,100 16 8,17 6,7 16,25,69,70 10,11 9,22,23,26,90 113 52 9,13,39,86,95,119 25 79,108 33,37,49,86,87 7,100 110 11,25,44 15 36,105,106 8 64,65,70,76,77 31,38,38 112,113,114,119 84,96 20 14,85 10,11,19,35,80,81,82,90,101,104,105,110 107,109 23,36,41 10 40 85 34,35,41 12 72,73 30,31 42,43,49,101,115 94,102 79
SEQUINS & BEADS
MICHAEL KORS
Fashion Focus EVENING.COCKTAIL
6
7
PICCIONE.PICCIONE
EMPORIO ARMANI
MICHAEL KORS
EMPORIO ARMANI
EMPORIO ARMANI
MICHAEL KORS
Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 RICHMOND
EMILIO PUCCI
MARY KATRANTZOU
Fashion Focus EVENING.COCKTAIL
8
9
NAEEM KHAN
NAEEM KHAN
OSCAR DE LA RENTA
SEQUINS & BEADS
Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 CUSTO BARCELONA
DOLCE & GABBANA
TOM FORD
DOLCE & GABBANA
N°21
TADASHI SHOJI
Fashion Focus EVENING.COCKTAIL
10
11
SEQUINS & BEADS
BALMAIN
ASHISH
PRABAL GURUNG
N°21
GIAMBATTISTA VALLI
TADASHI SHOJI
Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 GIORGIO ARMANI
ELIE SAAB
VALENTINO
Fashion Focus EVENING.COCKTAIL
12
13
ERDEM
OSCAR DE LA RENTA
OSCAR DE LA RENTA
SEQUINS & BEADS
Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 CHRISTOPHE GUILLARMÉ
STELLA McCARTNEY
CHRISTOPHE GUILLARMÉ
Fashion Focus EVENING.COCKTAIL
14
15
PREEN BY THORNTON BREGAZZI
BIBHU MOHAPATRA
BADGLEY MISCHKA
SEQUINS & BEADS
Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 MARNI
DOLCE & GABBANA
MOSCHINO
Fashion Focus EVENING.COCKTAIL
16
17
GUCCI
DELPOZO
MARY KATRANTZOU
SEQUINS & BEADS
Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 ADAM SELMAN
DAVID KOMA
GUCCI
EMPORIO ARMANI
EMPORIO ARMANI
KENZO
Fashion Focus EVENING.COCKTAIL
18
19
SEQUINS & BEADS
EMPORIO ARMANI
Halpern
EMPORIO ARMANI
KENZO
TADASHI SHOJI
DOLCE & GABBANA
Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 BADGLEY MISCHKA
SON JUNG WAN
Carlisle
Fashion Focus EVENING.COCKTAIL
20
21
GIVENCHY
CHRISTOPHE GUILLARMÉ
ALBERTA FERRETTI
SEQUINS & BEADS
Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 GIVENCHY
NAEEM KHAN
CHRISTIAN SIRIANO
Fashion Focus EVENING.COCKTAIL
22
23
NAEEM KHAN
BALMAIN
TEMPERLEY LONDON
SEQUINS & BEADS
Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 BALMAIN
DOLCE & GABBANA
FAUSTO PUGLISI
ALBERTA FERRETTI
CHRISTOPHER KANE
DAVID KOMA
Fashion Focus EVENING.COCKTAIL
24
25
SEQUINS & BEADS
FAUSTO PUGLISI
PACO RABANNE
PRABAL GURUNG
MOSCHINO
DAVID KOMA
PACO RABANNE
Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 NAEEM KHAN
NAEEM KHAN
ELIE SAAB
TRANSPARENCY
BALMAIN
LEANNE MARSHALL
BALMAIN
BLUMARINE
Fashion Focus EVENING.COCKTAIL
28
29
Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 AKRIS
JOHN GALLIANO
VIONNET
Fashion Focus EVENING.COCKTAIL
30
31
ROCHAS
CHIARA BONI LA PETITE ROBE
VIONNET
TRANSPARENCY
Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 JOHN GALLIANO
JOHN GALLIANO
JOHN GALLIANO
BIBHU MOHAPATRA
Fashion Focus EVENING.COCKTAIL
32
33
PHILOSOPHY di LORENZO SERAFINI
CHIARA BONI LA PETITE ROBE
TRANSPARENCY
ANTONIO MARRAS
BOTTEGA VENETA
BLUMARINE
Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 TRUSSARDI
EMILIA WICKSTEAD
Kristina Fidelskaya
Fashion Focus EVENING.COCKTAIL
34
35
TADASHI SHOJI
LANVIN
TRUSSARDI
TRANSPARENCY
Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 TEMPERLEY LONDON
ALBERTA FERRETTI
RALPH & RUSSO
Fashion Focus EVENING.COCKTAIL
36
37
CHANEL
GENNY
PHILOSOPHY di LORENZO SERAFINI
TRANSPARENCY
Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 ANTONIO MARRAS
JOHN GALLIANO
ROCHAS
Fashion Focus EVENING.COCKTAIL
38
39
CHRISTIAN SIRIANO
AIGNER
OSCAR DE LA RENTA
TRANSPARENCY
Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 TOMMY HILFIGER
ERDEM
ELIE SAAB
Fashion Focus EVENING.COCKTAIL
40
41
TRUSSARDI
TEMPERLEY LONDON
TEMPERLEY LONDON
TRANSPARENCY
VELVET TOUCH
VIVETTA
VIVETTA
BOTTEGA VENETA
VIVETTA
Fashion Focus EVENING.COCKTAIL
42
43
Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 BROCK COLLECTION
PRABAL GURUNG
PRABAL GURUNG
Fashion Focus EVENING.COCKTAIL
44
45
D.Exterior
BOTTEGA VENETA
ANNAKIKI
VELVET TOUCH
Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 BOTTEGA VENETA
ERDEM
AIGNER
Fashion Focus EVENING.COCKTAIL
46
47
ERDEM
ERDEM
BROCK COLLECTION
VELVET TOUCH
Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 FRANCESCA LIBERATORE
FRANCESCA LIBERATORE
FRANCESCA LIBERATORE
FRANCESCA LIBERATORE
ERDEM
Fashion Focus EVENING.COCKTAIL
48
49
VELVET TOUCH
PHILOSOPHY di LORENZO SERAFINI
VIVETTA
BOTTEGA VENETA
ERDEM
CHRISTIAN PELLIZZARI
ALTUZARRA
Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 COACH
CHRISTIAN SIRIANO
AIGNER
Fashion Focus EVENING.COCKTAIL
50
51
BROCK COLLECTION
D.Exterior
GIORGIO ARMANI
VELVET TOUCH
Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 JOHN GALLIANO
Olivier Theyskens
ERDEM
RUFFLES & FRILLS
ERMANNO SCERVINO
Fashion Focus EVENING.COCKTAIL
54
55
ANDREW GN
ERMANNO SCERVINO
CHIARA BONI LA PETITE ROBE
Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 DOLCE & GABBANA
LUISA BECCARIA
GIAMBATTISTA VALLI
Fashion Focus EVENING.COCKTAIL
56
57
ELIE SAAB
DOLCE & GABBANA
LUISA BECCARIA
RUFFLES & FRILLS
Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 BLUMARINE
GIAMBATTISTA VALLI
ERMANNO SCERVINO
Fashion Focus EVENING.COCKTAIL
58
59
LUISA BECCARIA
BORA AKSU
BORA AKSU
RUFFLES & FRILLS
Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 BROGNANO
ANTONIO MARRAS
DOLCE & GABBANA
Fashion Focus EVENING.COCKTAIL
60
61
ERMANNO SCERVINO
RUFFLES & FRILLS
CHRISTIAN SIRIANO
BORA AKSU
Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 ANDREW GN
DELPOZO
CHIARA BONI LA PETITE ROBE
CARVED OUT
ROBERTO CAVALLI
Fashion Focus EVENING.COCKTAIL
64
65
AIGNER
ROBERTO CAVALLI
ROBERTO CAVALLI
Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 CHRISTOPHE GUILLARMÉ
CHRISTOPHE GUILLARMÉ
CUSHNIE ET OCHS
CHRISTOPHE GUILLARMÉ
CUSHNIE ET OCHS
CUSHNIE ET OCHS
Fashion Focus EVENING.COCKTAIL
66
67
CUSHNIE ET OCHS
ESTEBAN CORTAZAR
CHLOÉ
CARVED OUT
ANDREW GN
CUSHNIE ET OCHS
CHLOÉ
Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 CUSTO BARCELONA
DAVID KOMA
CUSTO BARCELONA
BOTTEGA VENETA
BALMAIN
CUSTO BARCELONA
Fashion Focus EVENING.COCKTAIL
68
69
CARVED OUT
ALEXANDER WANG
BALMAIN
MOSCHINO
CUSTO BARCELONA
ALEXANDER WANG
LAURA BIAGIOTTI
Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 MOSCHINO
ROBERTO CAVALLI
ROBERTO CAVALLI
Fashion Focus EVENING.COCKTAIL
70
71
GUCCI
CARVED OUT
LEANNE MARSHALL
DAVID KOMA
FLOATING FRINGES
VERSACE
Fashion Focus EVENING.COCKTAIL
72
73
VERSACE
VERSACE
VERSACE
ALEXANDER MCQUEEN
VERSACE
Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 ALEXANDER MCQUEEN
CIVIDINI
ALEXANDER MCQUEEN
Fashion Focus EVENING.COCKTAIL
74
75
DAVID KOMA
GIVENCHY
ALEXANDER MCQUEEN
FLOATING FRINGES
Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 BLUMARINE
ROBERTO CAVALLI
ALEXANDER MCQUEEN
Fashion Focus EVENING.COCKTAIL
76
77
BLUMARINE
ROBERTO CAVALLI
GIVENCHY
FLOATING FRINGES
Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 CHIARA BONI LA PETITE ROBE
CHANEL
CHIARA BONI LA PETITE ROBE
Fashion Focus EVENING.COCKTAIL
78
79
Y/PROJECT
PETER PILOTTO
FYODOR GOLAN
FLOATING FRINGES
LACE COUTURE
TADASHI SHOJI
Fashion Focus EVENING.COCKTAIL
80
81
BORA AKSU
LEANNE MARSHALL
TADASHI SHOJI
Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 BLUMARINE
TADASHI SHOJI
GIVENCHY
Fashion Focus EVENING.COCKTAIL
82
83
BLUMARINE
ELIE SAAB
CHRISTOPHE GUILLARMÉ
LACE COUTURE
Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 ERMANNO SCERVINO
SIMONE ROCHA
BROCK COLLECTION
Fashion Focus EVENING.COCKTAIL
84
85
TORY BURCH
STELLA McCARTNEY
BROCK COLLECTION
LACE COUTURE
Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 PHILOSOPHY di LORENZO SERAFINI
OSCAR DE LA RENTA
BORA AKSU
BORA AKSU
Fashion Focus EVENING.COCKTAIL
86
87
CHRISTOPHE GUILLARMÉ
ANTONIO MARRAS
ANTONIO MARRAS
LACE COUTURE
PHILOSOPHY di LORENZO SERAFINI
Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 ANTONIO MARRAS
BLUMARINE
CHRISTOPHER KANE
Fashion Focus EVENING.COCKTAIL
88
89
CHANEL
CHRISTOPHER KANE
ERMANNO SCERVINO
LACE COUTURE
Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 TADASHI SHOJI
NAEEM KHAN
TADASHI SHOJI
Needlework
LUISA BECCARIA
Fashion Focus EVENING.COCKTAIL
92
93
LUISA BECCARIA
GIAMBATTISTA VALLI
LUISA BECCARIA
Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 VIVIENNE TAM
GIAMBATTISTA VALLI
GIAMBATTISTA VALLI
Fashion Focus EVENING.COCKTAIL
94
95
DIOR
CHRISTIAN SIRIANO
OSCAR DE LA RENTA
Needlework
SIMONE ROCHA
DIOR
DIOR
Autumn.Winter 18.1 9
Fashion Focus EVENING.COCKTAIL
96
97
DELPOZO
DRIES VAN NOTEN
CURIEL
Needlework
Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 FRANCESCA LIBERATORE
LUISA BECCARIA
Fashion Focus EVENING.COCKTAIL
98
99
ANTONIO MARRAS
LUISA BECCARIA
ERMANNO SCERVINO
Needlework
Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 PICCIONE.PICCIONE
BORA AKSU
PICCIONE.PICCIONE
DOLCE & GABBANA
FRANKIE MORELLO
LUISA BECCARIA
Fashion Focus EVENING.COCKTAIL
100
101
Needlework
DAVID KOMA
VIVETTA
CHRISTOPHE GUILLARMÉ
TADASHI SHOJI
DAN LIU
FRANKIE MORELLO
Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 CHRISTIAN SIRIANO
BADGLEY MISCHKA
VIVIENNE TAM
PLEATED PERFECTION
TADASHI SHOJI
RALPH & RUSSO
TADASHI SHOJI
ANDREW GN
Fashion Focus EVENING.COCKTAIL
104 105
Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 BORA AKSU
BORA AKSU
RALPH & RUSSO
Fashion Focus EVENING.COCKTAIL
106 107
TEATUM JONES
BORA AKSU
GUCCI
PLEATED PERFECTION
Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 PETER PILOTTO
LEANNE MARSHALL
BORA AKSU
Fashion Focus EVENING.COCKTAIL
108 109
COACH
TEATUM JONES
LEANNE MARSHALL
PLEATED PERFECTION
Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 TADASHI SHOJI
POIRET
GIVENCHY
ETHEREAL TULLE
ROKSANDA
ROKSANDA
OFF WHITE
ROKSANDA
Fashion Focus EVENING.COCKTAIL
112
113
Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 JASON WU
ROKSANDA
BADGLEY MISCHKA
Fashion Focus EVENING.COCKTAIL
114
115
BIBHU MOHAPATRA
VIVETTA
BADGLEY MISCHKA
ETHEREAL TULLE
Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 CHRISTIAN SIRIANO
CHRISTIAN SIRIANO
Fashion Focus EVENING.COCKTAIL
116
117
CAROLINA HERRERA
DELPOZO
BIBHU MOHAPATRA
ETHEREAL TULLE
Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 BIBHU MOHAPATRA
ANNAKIKI
Fashion Focus EVENING.COCKTAIL
118
119
CAROLINA HERRERA
ROKSANDA
OSCAR DE LA RENTA
ETHEREAL TULLE
Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 CHANEL
JASON WU
BALMAIN
Fashion Focus EVENING.COCKTAIL
120
121
BIBHU MOHAPATRA
CHIARA BONI LA PETITE ROBE
CAROLINA HERRERA
ETHEREAL TULLE
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FASHION FOCUS WOMAN KNITWEAR - SPRING SUMMER 2018 - N.7 QUARTERLY REVIEW - €59,00 ITALY
WOMAN SS.2018 Milan Paris London New york Barcelona Copenhagen and more
YARNS TEXTURES TREND ANALYSIS
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2
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212
264
381
475
0.3 BABY
2
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59
72
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381
475
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2
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59
72
106
132
190
238
BEACHWEAR
1
OCT
59
72
106
132
BIJOUX
2
APR/OCT
59
72
106
132
190
238
EVENING.COCKTAIL
2
APR/OCT
59
72
106
132
190
238
4
MAR/MAY/OCT/DEC
59
72
212
264
381
475
2
APR/OCT
59
72
106
132
190
238
PRINT.EMBROIDERY
2
APR/OCT
59
72
106
132
190
238
SUITS.DRESSES
2
APR/OCT
59
72
106
132
190
238
SHOES
4
MAR/MAY/OCT/DEC
59
72
212
264
381
475
TOPS.BOTTOMS
2
APR/OCT
59
72
106
132
190
238
2
APR/OCT
59
72
106
132
190
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2
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59
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106
132
190
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72
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,SKLAWTAC E HT MORF TOH SK E EW NOI H SAF POT E HT LLA SKOOL TSEB WEoverview IVE RP SofDthe OO M The most comprehensive latest designer collections SEGA(not M Ijust EGwoman AP LL UF
ready-to-wear collections from milan, paris, london and ny, but a detailed review of kids, man and haute couture catwalks). Very early publishing date. Trends: a summary of the main trends and the most interesting moods intercepted in the seasons's international collections. A selection of the most important fashion shows and the unmissable brands, to provide an overview of everything that is trendy in every fashion week.
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• La più completa collana sul mercato (non solo le collezioni prêt-à-porter di milano, parigi, londra e new uomo, bambino, alta moda e modest fashion). • Massima rapidità nell'uscita. • Trend: una sintesi delle tendenze principali e dei mood più interessanti intercettati nelle nuove collezioni internazionali. • dei brand imperdibili, per offrire una visione d’insieme su tutto ciò che fa tendenza in ogni fashion week.
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WEIVERP GNIRPS 81REMMUS
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