Australia's Highest Things

Australia’s

HIGHEST THINGS

A journey through the Snowy Mountains region in summer brings renewal, a sense of awe and a great excuse to support local communities on the rebound after COVID and bushfires.

Words: Darcy Watt

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THERE’S SOMETHING SO renewing about cold air and biting winds when the sun’s out. When you breathe it all in, every inch of your lungs expand beneath layers of clothing. No, I’m not in Antarctica – New South Wales can get bitterly cold too you know, even in spring and summer. After landing at Cooma airport, I take the local Snow Link Shuttle to Jindabyne, and smile to myself as I hear that the radio station is tuned into Snow FM. It’s an apt soundtrack as we head towards the Snowy Mountains – the land of Australia’s highest things. As we cruise along, the endless stands of trees seem to grow taller when laid up against a backdrop of

mountain peaks that you can only take in by slightly tilting your head upwards. It’s immediately obvious why this region is an adventurer’s paradise. The Snowy Mountains region is one of the best places in the state to ski, snowboard, mountain bike, hike and simply experience iconic Australian high country. It’s also home to a majestic mountain that needs no introduction if you grew up in Australia – our country’s tallest mountain, Mount Kosciuszko.

HIGH ON TASTE

My afternoon kicks off well with a visit to family-run Wild Brumby Distillery. The venue proudly lays claim to being

the highest distillery in Australia, offering a delicious line-up of schnapps, vodka and gin. The restaurant serves huge, hearty meals – plates of veal schnitzel, kipfler potatoes, beef gulasch, dumplings, sausages and sauerkraut. Iron-clad walls supported by strong wooden beams showcase an eclectic range of ski-inspired décor. It’s a homely kind of place and the happy chatter and friendly banter from all corners of the venue suggest it’s also a local hangout. A colourful tasting board of the schnapps offerings – cherry, peach, pear and classic butterscotch – helps warm my spirit. 

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TOP TO BOTTOM: Thredbo chairlifts; Eagles Nest Restaurant (Photos by Darcy Watt); Thredbo Wellness Retreat, (Image supplied Thredbo Resort)

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As day turns into night, the roads and wilderness converge in the quiet darkness. The golden headlights on Snow Link guide the way – a wellexperienced driver behind the wheel who obviously knows the area like the back of her hand. After a while we reach the mountaintop through a glittering haze of a million sleeting snowflakes, to see deer munching delicately on tufts of grass. It might be cold, but it’s a winter wonderland.

A MOUNTAINTOP SANCTUARY

I check into my suite that’s perched perfectly above the water at Lake Crackenback Resort & Spa. Below in the darkness, frogs ribbit in calming synchronisation, wind whistles through the trees, and even though I can’t see them, I know the deer, kangaroos and brumbies are bound to be close by. There’s nothing like a good night’s sleep in the mountains, snuggled up in luxury linen.

By day, Lake Crackenback Resort & Spa transforms into a bustling hub of activity. Guests can kayak on the crystal alpine waters, hike in the surrounding mountains, and mountain bike within the resort. There’s also trout fishing on the lake, where you might be lucky enough to catch a tagged fish and win one of the Snowy Trout Challenge prizes. The competition runs until the end of May 2022. Also on site is an indoor heated pool, restaurant, and a spa where a relaxing facial will have you feeling you’re on cloud nine.

HIKE CARAMBA TRAIL

Scoring fresh snow beneath my hiking boots at the beginning of an Australian summer sure is unusual. Australia has a striking Alpine environment, and it’s even better explored on foot – and at night. With backcountry head guide from Thredbo Alex Parsons, a full moon hike up to the summit of Mount Kosciuszko is something that should be ticked off your bucket list. Considering I’m no expert on surviving in the wilderness, hiking past rivers and alpine lakes after sundown is not something I’d brave alone. I’m also not keen on launching my own version of Into the Wild. However, as we gently trundle on, step by step it becomes easier, and before we know it the conversation is flowing. Alex is an eco-warrior who speaks gently yet firmly about the fragility of the Australian environment. She explains that the mountain pygmy possum is barely bigger than the palm of a human hand, and its life in an Alpine climate means constantly battling the elements. Hibernating throughout the winter, this cute little critter spends its summers building up reserves to survive the cold months. “The mountain pygmy possum is endemic to the region and relies on eating bogong moths among other things to build up its fat reserves for winter,“ says Alex. ”Both are suffering severely due to climate change.”

We learn about other native species as we hike, and how rare some of them are. I’m shocked to learn, for instance, that there are only 50 yellow and black striped southern corroboree frogs left in the wild. “For our Alpine superstars, life in such harsh conditions isn’t easy as it is,” Alex explains. “Then if you add climate change to the list, along with introduced species such as feral cats, foxes and brumbies, you have the concoction for disaster.”

HIGH HOPES

The next day I take the scenic chairlift up to Australia’s highest restaurant – Eagles Nest. My ski pass, which I’ve pocketed near my chest, scans automatically at the ski lift gates. In peak season, efficiency is key. On reaching the restaurant, aweinspiring views of sweeping valleys and mountains can be paired with a tipple of schnapps to warm things up a notch. Jacinta Counihan – a restaurateur and ski enthusiast from Thredbo – explains that although the views are great, it’s fairly difficult running a mountaintop restaurant. “It’s a strange operation working at Australia’s highest restaurant – getting your snow gear on in the morning and the logistics of carrying food and drink up here doesn’t always work,” she explains. “But the staff do a fantastic job considering the elements they deal with every day.”

 Thredbo is a self-contained village with a supermarket, post office, bottle-o and garbage service, so you don’t have to leave for anything once you’re settled in. The local community have lived here for a long time – including Stuart Diver, who was the sole survivor of the tragic 1997 Thredbo landslide. The locals run events all year round such as mountain bike clinics, live music shows, hiking tours and yoga retreats. Which brings me to Australia’s highest yoga sessions. Jane Corben from the Jindabyne Yoga Shala operates a three-day all-inclusive wellness retreat in Thredbo. An early morning wake-up call is well worth it, especially when you’re jumping into a cosy 4WD while it’s still dark, then ascending the winding mountain road. As I relax into the Yin yoga experience, the sun rises over the snow-laden landscape, creating a uniquely grounding experience on the tallest summit in Australia. The vista is as captivating as Jane’s class. If you’re brave enough, a coldwater immersion in the alpine rock pools is an optional extra. I wore swimmers under my clothes and was pumped with high hopes until I felt the water temperature. Walking away, I figured that being a newly converted yogi was enough of an achievement during my time in the Snowies. Next time, maybe. TB

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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Alex Parsons leading the way through a Thredbo hike; Thredbo Wellness Retreat, (Image supplied Thredbo Resort); The rare mountain pygmy possum.

operates weekly flights to Cooma (Snowy Mountains). Visit rex.com.au for prices and details.

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