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Riches of the Riverina

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Albury, Wagga Wagga and Griffith are home to fabulous restaurants, quirky cafes and excellent wineries that showcase the great produce of the rich Riverina.

Words: Sue Wallace

THIS PAGE: Hume Dam Lookout. Image: Visit Albury Wodonga.

WHETHER YOU’RE planning a restaurant and winery hop or just passing through, these three vibrant destinations have much to offer on the culinary scene – plus a big side serving of warm hospitality.

Innovative chefs, passionate producers and acclaimed winemakers are showcasing their serious culinary credentials, and you won’t be disappointed by what's on offer.

AMAZING ALBURY

Cosmopolitan Albury hugs the Murray River opposite its twin city, Wodonga, and has a buoyant dining scene that showcases the area’s great produce.

Yardbird restaurant opened last year in a renovated industrial building – once a mechanic’s workshop – boasting a 13-metre bar and an eclectic feel. Head chef Simon Arkless stars here, enticing diners to try European-themed cuisine and fabulous wines.

“Our menu is all about fantastic produce, great wine and bold flavours from Spain, France and Italy, and the season’s best local produce,” says Simon, whose kitchen features a specially imported Spanish Mibrasa oven. “We love bold flavours without fuss or fanfare, and the intense heat of the imported oven does just that.”

Favourites include charcoal-grilled Wagyu hanger steak with watercress and fresh horseradish with a salad of roast Jerusalem artichoke, local blood orange, goat curd and hazelnuts.

Charcuterie, tortilla, croquettas and Padrón peppers star in tapas offerings, and the drinks menu has more than 200 wines plus craft beers on tap as well as traditional cocktails highlighting local distilleries. The Murray River Sea Monster with spiced rum and bitters has a following.

Love Italian? Head to East Albury’s new Italian restaurant, Mamma Mia Italian Kitchen, where owners Serena McGuffie and Italian-born Alessandro Destri serve traditional pizza and pasta dishes inspired by family recipes. The former corner shop features a Cinque Terra theme and an environmentally friendly pizza oven imported from Italy.

Also new on the scene is gastro pub The Lincoln, in revamped premises on the Lincoln Causeway between Albury and Wodonga. It offers casual family dining and grab-and-go options.

Popular favourites include the Level One Wine Bar in Dean Street, with a menu focused on local produce and 300 wines to tempt you, while nearby Aida restaurant offers traditional Mediterranean cuisine and a fun atmosphere.

Spanish cuisine is at the heart of Saludos near the garden end

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Yardbird; Level One Wine Bar; Two Fingers; Albury CBD at night. Images: Visit Albury Wodonga.

of Dean Street, with Spanish treats and tapas to share. You may even catch a flamenco dance performance!

Bistro Selle, a small European-style bistro in central Albury, does the classics with a twist, while chef Ludo Baulacky offers a cosmopolitan menu at The River Deck Cafe on the banks of the Murray at Noreuil Park. The Italian-inspired Norma Wine and Pasta, located in a converted corner shop, serves Italian fare deserving of a nonna’s praise.

Need a drink and a trim? The quirky Two Fingers bar and gentlemen’s barbershop offers both. Or you can indulge in high tea and lunch at the Vintage Rose Tea & Coffee House in East Albury, where French patisseriestyle desserts are served on beautiful china.

For a picturesque wine tasting, cross the heritage-listed Bethanga Bridge on Lake Hume to Websters Estate, a boutique family-run winery offering guided wine tasting and delicious platters – it’s all about graze and gaze, with sweeping views over the lake.

Across the river in Wodonga is award-winning Miss Amelie, where David Kapay’s eclectic modern European fine-dining menu shines.

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GORGEOUS GRIFFITH

Often referred to as Little Italy, with more than 60 per cent of its residents claiming Italian heritage, Griffith has a vibrant food bowl with an emphasis on big tastes and top wineries producing swoonworthy drops.

Chef Luke Piccolo, who opened Limone Dining in 2016, describes the city as home to “genuine” food, where amazing produce stars – with much of it grown on the Piccolo Family Farm. Here farm to fork rules, with a focus on seasonality.

“We are in a bit of a bubble in Griffith, and everything is centred around great food and great experiences,” says Luke, who thrives on cooking food that reflects his heritage and story. “That’s what I love about cooking with the diverse selection of fresh produce – we have it all,” he says.

Casual cucina Zecca Handmade Italian, where co-owners Ben Di Rosa, his wife Michaela Cangelli-Di Rosa and friend Daniel D’Aquino create authentic Italian recipes, has a big following. It’s housed in the original 

BEST WESTERN PLUS HOVELL TREE INN Albury, NSW With its well-manicured gardens and hedges, complete with a charming rock pool and fountain surrounding the hexagonal conservatory style restaurant, you’d be forgiven for thinking you were in the English countryside. However, you’ll definitely know you’re in Albury when you stay in one of the oversized luxury suites at the Best Western Plus Hovell Tree Inn, because you can cross the road and take a wander along the mighty Murray River. The location is whisper-quiet and the landmark hotel has 60 newly refurbished stylish rooms, ranging from studio to twobedroom apartments. The hotel has a welcoming restaurant with views of the gardens and trees serving modern Australian cuisine with Mediterranean influences, and a great selection of wine, beer and cocktails.

There’s a large outdoor rooftop swimming pool with a spa, and a Swedish-style sauna.

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Rural Bank building, and “zecca” means mint in Italian, a nod to money. The menu changes daily for lunch and dinner and the pasta dishes are divine.

A farm-to-table philosophy is also central to the Bull & Bell Steakhouse, known for its established traditions, dynamic wine, food and produce with a background of European flair and a strong Italian heritage.

“Farm-to-table philosophy is all about ensuring every step your food has taken, between being in the ground and on the hoof to your dining table, is carefully monitored, to ensure sustainable practices and that the food is kept as fresh and unprocessed as possible,” says executive chef Anthony Fullerton. “We have set ourselves a 300-kilometre radius where we have worked with farm gate producers to provide us with the best local ingredients.’’ Another popular Griffith institution, La Scala, opened its doors in 1977. Open in the evenings, it serves up traditional wood-fired pizza, homemade pasta, gelato and delicious desserts.

Fill up your picnic basket at La Piccola Grosseria, a small family-owned authentic Italian deli run by Salvatore, Michele and Maria Trimboli, who specialise in coffee, cold meats, antipasti, homemade bread, biscuits and Italian treats.

Wineries include Yarran Wines, established by the Brewer family, with organically certified vineyards and a cellar door on the outskirts of Griffith, where you can go for a guided tasting.

Calabria Family Wines is another familyestablished winery that dates back to 1945. The estate is home to a Tuscan-style cellar door where visitors can try award-winning Italian grape varietals including Nero d’Avola and Montepulciano.

It’s also worth dropping into De Bortoli’s cellar door in Bilbul for a tasting, garden tour and delicious platters, and Whitton Malt House just outside of Griffith for food and beverages where local sustainably sourced produce is the star of the show.

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WONDERFUL WAGGA

Straddling the meandering Murrumbidgee River, the city of Wagga Wagga has become an exciting foodie centre. Food entrepreneur Tania Sibrey of Food I Am, who runs a cooking school and organises private dining experiences and food tours, is confident the Riverina is set to become the next top dining destination.

“The food and wine scenes have really matured in the Riverina, and we’ve had a lot more cafes, bars and restaurants open, offering what used to be just the metro experience,” she says.

Jamie Shepley, co-owner of Mr Lawrence cafe and bar on the Murrumbidgee, agrees that Wagga is ready to take on that food destination mantle.

Mr Lawrence, named for the original owners 

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Bull & Bear Steakhouse. Image: supplied; Zecca. Image: Visit Griffith; Charles Sturt Winery. Image: supplied.

FAST FOOD FACTS

Griffith has so many kilometres of trellised vines they could lap Australia’s coast three times, and the region recently planted one million hazelnut trees for chocolate maker Ferrero. Chiko Rolls originated in Wagga Wagga. Invented by Francis Gerald McEnroe, a boilermaker from Bendigo, the popular Australian hot snack made its first appearance at the Wagga show in 1951.

ABOVE: Magpies Nest. Image: supplied.

of the premises T. Lawrence & Sons, features local produce and serves great coffee and cocktails – making it the perfect spot for a Pick Me Up Espresso Martini.

Jamie and his business partner Luke Kerlin also own Hide Steak & Bar, which is devoted to tender cuts of meat, sides and sauces.

The Oakroom at the Townhouse Hotel Wagga is another dining hotspot. A menu standout is the lamb backstrap served with pea puree, toasted macadamia, Persian feta and artichoke – and you can’t pass up a grand finale of strawberry ‘lamington’ with mascarpone and coconut.

Pastorale by Meccanico on Sturt Street is a European-inspired restaurant nestled inside the heritage Riverine Club, where co-owner Richard Moffatt sources the best regional produce to be cooked over charcoal and a naked flame.

“We have fabulous produce in the food bowl area – great vegetables, Murray cod and meats – the standard has really improved over the years,” he says. “I don’t believe in overcomplicating the cooking process, and we remain very true to European-inspired dishes where the flavour talks.”

Other popular restaurants include The Charles in the heart of Wagga and Magpies Nest. For great coffee and food try the Trail Street Coffee Shop and Mates Gully Cafe & Restaurant.

If you love craft beer, drop into the Thirsty Crow Brewing Co. It’s been going since 2010 and offers a great selection of lagers, stouts and everything in between.

On the wine front, Boutique Wines by Charles Sturt University has its cellar door on the edge of campus, and produces award-winning wines made by students of the wine science and viticulture program. Its bounty has attracted a swag of medals from boutique wine shows.

Borambola Wines, owned by Tim and Naomi McMullen, produces beer, cider and an array of wines. Pop along for a tasting in beautiful surrounds about half an hour from the city.

“People are sourcing local produce and it’s great to see local restaurants supporting growers,” says Tim, who planted his first vines almost 30 years ago.

Gin lovers will enjoy Riverina Gin, established by Jake and Tessa Eaglesham. The distillery produces a dry gin with local botanicals inspired by the Riverina, handmade in a copper still using the traditional one-shot distillation method. Scottish-born Jake says the couple fell in love with the process of gin-making and their signature blend reflects the tastes of “place”.

It’s hard to resist souvenirs when you visit the Riverina. You may well return with a carload of goodies. TB

Fly into Wagga Wagga with Rex airlines BEST WESTERN PLUS BOLTON ON THE PARK Wagga Wagga, NSW “Everything you need is right here with us,” the owners of the Best Western Plus Bolton on the Park say. The over-sized suites have king and king single sized beds, spacious lounge, dining and working areas, and some feature large modern kitchens. All rooms have bright stylish artworks and smart décor that gives the spaces a cool yet homely feel.

There is a bar and restaurant onsite and an outdoor beer garden where you can enjoy the lovely Wagga weather. Perfectly situated in the heart of the city, ‘The Bolton’ is a short walk from the city's thriving dining and shopping scene.

BEST WESTERN AMBASSADOR MOTOR INN & APARTMENTS Wagga Wagga, NSW Light-filled, beautifully maintained, fresh and modern, the Best Western Ambassador Motor Inn & Apartments offers typical motel-style convenience, just a short drive from the airport and city centre. The spacious ground floor rooms all include comfortable queen size beds, free high-speed WiFi, with two-bedroom apartment options for longer stays or larger families.

There is outdoor seating and a barbecue area where guests can relax after a big day of working or exploring. The owners take great pride in delivering home-cooked meals, and continental and hot breakfasts straight to your room.

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SEAFOOD AND SUNDOWNERS IN Port Macquarie

Welcome to Port Macquarie – where oyster and lobster tastings by the river, buckets of prawns on the pontoon and fine dining in seafood restaurants are all a part of the enviable lifestyle. And did someone mention sundowners? Let’s dive right in…

LEFT TO RIGHT: Whalebone Wharf. Image: Remy Brand; Dish at Stunned Mullet. Image: Lindsay Moller; Oysters at Bills.

1. SUMPTUOUS OYSTERS STRAIGHT FROM THE RIVER

The charming township of Laurieton is home to Armstrong Oysters, a second-generation, family-operated business that supplies Sydney rock oysters to top restaurants across the country. Head on down to the Shop Front where you can taste oysters plucked straight from the river: it doesn’t get any fresher than this!

2. SEAFOOD PLATTERS & PRAWNS ON THE PONTOON

The Big Oyster (aka ‘The Shuck Shack’) is a Port Mac landmark – a little ‘ol blue boat shed hovering over the Hastings River. Just a short wander over the bridge, you’ll discover mouth-watering prawns, oysters, lobster, bugs, crab and fish (cooked and fresh). You can order a seafood platter to tuck into on the adjacent pontoon. Don’t forget to bring a bottle of something chilled!

3. BEST FISH & CHIPS

Laurieton Seafoods & Co-op are tipped as the best fish and chips on the North Coast for a reason – every morning, fresh fish come straight off the local trawlers. Enjoy your catch overlooking the river, or take a short drive to North Brother Mountain and enjoy a perfect seafood picnic, complete with amazing views.

4. BILLS FISHHOUSE & BAR

Local Chef Pete Cutcliffe (who also owns top-rated Twotriplefour at Cassegrain Wines) has developed a cult following for his ocean/paddock to plate style. Bills is a casual, modern restaurant that embraces locally sourced, seasonal and sustainable ingredients to produce simple, delicious food. With a great drinks list and wonderfully welcoming vibes, you can’t go wrong indulging here.

5. WHALEBONE WHARF

No introduction is necessary for this Port Mac icon, which holds a special place in the hearts of locals and visitors who are in the know. The nautical chic white boathouse perches over the Hastings River, boasting spectacular river views. To arrive in true style, you can drop in by sea plane or helicopter. The sublime setting is upstaged only by the food.

6. THE STUNNED MULLET

The Mid-North Coast’s finest hatted restaurant continues to surprise and delight under the skilled and experienced direction of owner

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Sails Resort. Image: Laneway Photography; Chop ‘n Chill; Zebu Bar. Images: Remy Brand.

Lou Perri. With a menu featuring dishes such as ‘Glacier 51 Toothfish’ and a seriously impressive, awardwinning wine list, this place has become a destination unto itself.

7. LITTLE SHACK OF PLENTY

This place gets a lot of love, and rightly so. Perfectly positioned on the iconic breakwall overlooking the river, it has a retro holiday vibe, and you can relax under a tropical umbrella with a cocktail in hand. Make sure you try the lobster roll and frozen margarita combo, and bring your dancing shoes, as Little Shack is often host to some of Port Mac’s best musos and DJs.

8. GOOD VIBES AT ZEBU BAR

Located on the Town Green overlooking the river, Zebu Bar is perfect for dolphin and people watching. Recently renovated, this casual spot has a great bar menu.

9. NEWCOMER – BANKS CAFÉ

This hidden gem is one of Port Mac’s newest cafés, sitting pretty on the banks of the Hastings River, overlooking a heritage timber trawler. It’s chic and stylish, the food is fresh and tasty, and the views are sublime.

10. HELLO SAILOR

Hello Sailor at Port Marina is a fun alfresco venue with a reputation for the best margaritas in town. Here you can find local beer on tap and a street-food style shack out the back, with a fresh and creative menu that includes buckets of prawns and po’ boys. There’s often great live music to bop along to, and it has a cool vibe while being super friendly.

11. SAIL AWAY IN STYLE

The Hamptons-style splendour of Sails Resort is where you’ll find The Boathouse Bar & Restaurant. Enjoy the sophisticated fit-out, or venture out onto the deck and lawns, complete with fire pit and a great view over the water. The bar features funky decor and comfy lounges to enjoy a coffee or a cocktail. You can even pull up in style by kayak, or take it up a notch on the fitness scale and arrive on a standup paddleboard.

12. CHOP ‘N CHILL

A local favourite and in prime position on Town Green, at Chop ‘n Chill, you’ll find super friendly service alongside great food and beverages. Local musicians often entertain guests, and it’s a great option if you’ve got kids as you can dine alfresco while watching them attempt to climb the majestic fig tree next to the brand new playground out the front.

CHECK OUT PORT MACQUARIE’S TASTE TRAIL: AN INSIDER’S GUIDE TO FOOD, WINE, ART AND CULTURE

portmacquarieinfo.com.au Fly into Port Macquarie with Rex airlines

The sunrise swim. The coastal walk followed by a luxuriously long lunch. Forest-bathing. Kayak-to-café. Sundowners that blend seamlessly into dinner. On no one’s schedule but your own. Escape the Rush Race. www.portmacquarieinfo.com.au

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