Dining Review

2 CHEFS ITALIAN RESTAURANT & BAR 317 WEST BOYLSTON STREET, WORCESTER (508) 459-9229

BERNIE WHITMORE

Rewinding back several incarnations, to the days when it was Eddie’s Pub, 317 West Boylston Street has occupied ‘special status’ for a group of my friends. Its shabby lack of pretense and decent food at fair prices made it a neighborhood favorite. Most people would have forgotten Eddie’s , but we were loyal customers.

Since then, we’ve anxiously anticipated each new restart, eagerly ready to adopt them. Rarely have we been disappointed. So it was with the 2 Chefs version release. In the endless months it took 2 Chefs to come to fruition we watched, week by week, for signs of life.

After their grand opening we waited a few weeks – enough time, we hoped, for them to find their rhythm and work out the kinks of a new kitchen. Then we decided to pay a visit to 2 Chefs. Since its Wild Willy’s days, we found the building’s dining room had been reformatted so that a perimeter of seating surrounds a central horseshoe shaped bar, and the entry area has been transformed from waiting area to family seating. Vestiges of its past show up, but the décor has decidedly slanted toward some variation of Italo-Tuscan-Cowboy with plenty of video screens and a soft-rock soundtrack.

We showed up on a midweek evening to find the parking lot packed. I expected to be turned away or face the dilemma of a 50-minute wait. Instead, we were seated immediately at one of their groupsized tables in the entrance. 2 Chef’s décor and overall theme – even the scent wafting through the parking lot - prepared me for Italian cuisine. But as I delved deeper into the menu, I was surprised to find the expected lasagna and manicotti items giving way to American standards such as lobster-stuffed haddock and steak tips with truffle fries. At the lower end of their price range they offer traditional turkey dinner and shepherd’s pie.

We started with their Caesar Salad, a big bowl of torn romaine leaves topped with shavings of parmesan cheese and homemade croutons. The dressing is what really made this Caesar stand apart; a creamy blend that clung to the romaine, its flavor notes of lemon, pepper, parmesan and Dijon mustard were blended harmoniously with a pleasingly assertive kick that foretold a kitchen unafraid of flavor.

My friend, still expecting traditional (lower) West Boylston Street prices, sniffed, ‘For the money they could at least serve it with anchovy fillets’. Initially of a similar mind, in time, I came to see their prices as fair and competitive.

At many restaurants New kitchen + Packed dining room + Covid constraints would equal Long wait for service. Thus, it was surprising when our entrées were served mere minutes from taking our first forkfuls of salad. Considering the alternatives, we felt fortunate. Risking a cold bowl of pasta, I continued with my salad for another minute before digging into my bowl of Shrimp Fra Diavolo. To my relief, each forkful of spaghetti was steaming hot. To my surprise and pleasure it was spicy as the devil. At least one of those chefs knows their way around a sauté pan and had cooked a meal per the traditional diavolo recipe, not one tamed down to satisfy the flavor averse.

Anyone can over-spice a dish. The challenge is creating a Fra Diavolo that provides that initial shock of spice and then rounds out to reveal other flavors and, in this case, showcase the shrimp. Seven shimp, medium-to-large sized, were juicy and contributed their own delicate flavor to the dish.

What I really loved was the sumptuous garlicky after flavor. Wonderful.

My friend’s entrée, Chicken Tortellini Carbonara, was rich with smooth parmesan flavor and studded with little chunks of bacon and a scattering of peas. The creamy sauce had just a hint of garlic and generously drenched each of the tri-color tortellini and three large chunks of chicken breast.

2 Chefs portions were generous but not an outrage that sends you scrambling for takeout boxes. Nevertheless, the food was so tasty we both cleaned up our bowls and left happy. Apprehensions dispelled; 2 Chefs was worth the wait!

Dearest Drinkers,

SHANNON JUTRAS

I hope you are reading this at your favorite watering hole, cozied up with a rich winter beer in your hand. A joyous reunion toast is owed to those of you emerging from the depraved depths of Dry January. Top up your glass and let us begin.

This month, in honor of Galentine’s Day, we will explore a topic very close to my brewer heart: women in beer. Before we hear from some of the many vibrant and knowledgeable women in the Central Mass beer scene, we should first pause and acknowledge why women in beer deserve special attention. While women are a significant percentage (33%) of craft beer drinkers and participate in all aspects of the industry, we are still significantly underrepresented, especially in brewing production.

With this in mind, I reached out to women who own and work at Worcester breweries for their favorite beer recommendations at the moment. They also offered advice and encouragement for women who are interested in working in the beer industry

The first stop on my Worcester winter beer tour was Dani Babineau, CEO & Co-Founder at Redemption Rock Brewing. Babineau has a particularly apropos beer recommendation: Esther Weizenbock, their Valentine’s seasonal named for Esther Howland. Esther was the famous Worcester industrialist who pioneered paper valentines and employed thousands of women on her assembly lines. The beer’s name is also a nod to the unique banana and clove-like esters that distinguish the weizenbock style.

Babineau’s advice for women in the industry? “Just start somewhere. Whether it’s homebrewing, or reading a lot about beer, don’t be too precious about needing the perfect anything. Go out for interviews, ask for feedback if you’re not getting a position. Understand what the positions are. Figure out what you’re good at and apply it.”

Next I connected with Julie Jarry, Investor & Social Media Coordinator at Bay State Brewing. For Galentine’s Day this year she suggests the Nut Brown Ale for its sweet, light, and nutty with caramel notes. Her advice? “It’s a great time to be a woman in the brewing industry. The women in our industry are trying new things, coming up with great recipes, and breaking out of the “IPA all day” brewery patterns.” Karen Rich, wife to one of Baystate’s Managing Owners, recommends their Oatmeal Stout on a cold winter night. “Women like drinking beer just as much as men do!” she emphasized. “Don’t be intimidated by what appears to be a male-dominated industry. Bring your ideas and be yourself. Your voice will be heard!” Down the road at Wormtown Brewery, bartender Emily Lewis suggests Blizzard of ’78, a brown ale perfect for coffee lovers on a cozy winter day. She wants women to, “Know your worth. As women in the industry, we are just as knowledgeable, strong, and capable as the boys!”

Jamie McIntire, Wormtown’s Hospitality Manager also recommends something rich, strong and sweet like the Bourbon Barrel-Aged Blizzard of ‘78. Her advice is something I can fully endorse. “Be ready to work hard but have a lot of fun doing it! In my years being part of the brewing industry, I have seen so many new women enter and do well, self-taught female brewers, lab techs, managers, and bartenders... don’t be afraid to let your voice be heard. This industry can only get better with new ideas.” Our final recommendation comes from Misty Gillespie, Wormtown’s Regional Sales and Chain Account Manager. She recommends Shadow of Dom Kölsch because she’s a sucker for a nice clean, crisp, crushable Kölsch anytime of the year.

COCKTAIL CORNER

FLYING RHINO 278 SHREWSBURY ST., WORCESTER 508-757-1450

LYNN CARON

WHITE CHOCOLATE STRAWBERRY MARTINI

RECIPE

STRAWBERRY VODKA, CREME DE CACAO, WHITE CHOCOLATE GODIVA, AND STRAWBERRY PUREE.

COMBINE THE INGREDIENTS INTO A MARTINI SHAKER WITH ICE, SHAKE, AND STRAIN INTO GLASS

THIS CREAMY TREAT IS A VALENTINE’S DAY MUST HAVE, WHETHER YOU’RE CELEBRATING YOUR GAL PALS, A SIGNIFICANT OTHER, OR ENJOYING A WELL DESERVED BREAK FOR YOURSELF. CHEERS!

what’s happening in the restaurant scene

PAUL GIORGIO

NOT YOUR AVERAGE MEXICAN. Torito Mexican Restaurant opened last month in Westboro, in a space on Route 9 that once was home to Not Your Average Joes. The small chain also has a location in Worcester’s Lincoln Plaza.

HOOK, LINE, AND SINKER. The Hook & Reel seafood restaurant in Lincoln Plaza, which opened in December 2019, recently pulled up its line and has closed.

NOT REALLY LOCAL. Holden’s The Local, owned by the Viapiano Family, has closed its doors and been sold. The restaurant had been in the family for a while under different names. Prior to being the Local it was Flop Flops, and before that Al fresco, all owned by the Viapianos. They will be opening a food truck/catering venture.

THAI THIS. Thai House of Holden recently opened at the site of The Local in Holden. They also own Brown Rice and four other Thai Restaurants in Central Mass which include Thai Time, Rice Violet in Worcester, and Thai & I in Shrewsbury.

MORE SUSHI? Wilson Wang, owner of Baba Sushi on Park Ave in Worcester, has bought three parcels on Shrewsbury Street including Di Gio Auto Body. There have been no plans announced for the property. We also hear that Wang purchased the old Living Earth space on Park Ave & Chandler Street in the city.

TIME TO RISE UP. Elizabeth (Betty) Casey has sold her business, On the Rise Baking, to employees Mara and Amy Mahoney, both of Worcester. The women, who are sisters, bought the bakery earlier this month when Casey sold it after 28 years as owner and pastry chef.

THE LOST RESTAURANT OF ATLANTIS. Worcester Public Market’s Atlantis Raw Bar should be opening soon according to sources. It was expected to open the first week of January. The raw bar will offer oysters, lobster, caviar, and other items with a menu that changes daily.

IT HAS A NAME. Castle Cantina is the name of the new Spanish Restaurant going into the space that was home to the Castle Restaurant for a very long time.

AROUND THE CORNER. Oishi Japanese Restaurant will be temporarily closed as they are in the process of relocating into a bigger and better space at 422 Main Street in Worcester.

UNION STATION TO GET A NEW RESTAURANT. It looks like a new restaurant will be moving into space on the first floor of Union Station. The restaurant, according to the owners, “will be like the old El Morocco” which was a long-time fixture on Worcester’s Wall Street. Diane Louise, formerly of LeMirage, will be the chef.

Z CAFÉ TO CLOSE. After 14 years in business, the Z Café in Downtown Worcester will be turning off the lights due to the Covid 19 Pandemic. According to the owners, there just isn’t enough of a lunchtime crowd downtown any longer.

SCOOP DRIP

IRENA KACI

Expect to be warmly greeted by the effortlessly friendly Vaughn Slowaski, when walking into Scoop Drip, on 140 Millbury Street in Worcester. Slowaski, Scoop Drip’s proprietor, followed his passion for sneakers when he opened Scoop Drip in 2020. “We had support right away,” says Slowaski, “I could not be more grateful.”

In talking to Slowaski, his humility is as apparent as it is charming. He credits his family, friends, and community with his success. When I ask him if he’s collaborating with others, he explains that he brought his brother Andrew, and a good friend and local artist known as Ariez, on as business associates.

In the early 2010s, Slowaski was acquiring sneakers as a collector of fashionable apparel. It wasn’t until his cousin Tirell sold a pair of Lebron “South Beach” sneakers for almost eight times more than retail value, that Slowaski even considered the possibility that his hobby could turn into his livelihood.

Now Vaughn’s main challenge is having his inventory keep up with demand. Thanks to events like SNEARCON, and Boston’s Got Sole, the sneaker collecting community has grown right along with Slowaski’s generation. Slowaski estimates one out of every five sneakers in Scoop Drip are customer trade-ins. Fellow sneakerheads can bring their sneakers in for a store credit or cash, while customers can expect a constant stream of new stock.

This has made being an integral part of the community, as Slowaski has been, a huge advantage to building this business. “I’ve been doing this for so long that I was doing it as a wardrobe choice,” Slowaski tells me, meaning of course, that it has now become so much more than that.

But there are, of course, challenges. For one thing, Slowaski says the supply chain issues that have been plaguing business everywhere, have all but eliminated the cool snacks side of the business. “Not everyone is into sneakers,” Slowaski says. “And I’d like to have something to offer to everyone who walks through those doors, even if they’re just coming along for the ride. I used to love offering them unique snacks from all over the world. But I’ll get it going again someday.”

What is Worcester’s sneaker king wearing? Slowaski looks for comfort with a touch of nostalgia. His current favorite models, like Air Max 90, 95, and 98, were also his prized sneakers when he was teenger. As for the sneaker that got away, Slowaski is looking forward to an eventual re-release of Black Cat Jordan 3’s. “Those were something I had as a teenager,” Slowaski says, “but they haven’t been re-released since 2009.” In the meantime, Jordan Silhouette and Jordan 3’s are suitable replacements.

While trends for the future are harder to predict than ever, Slowaski lists Yeezy’s Nike Dunks as one of his most popular products. Kanye West first partnered with Nike in 2009, and moved on to work with Adidas in 2015. The cost of Yeezy’s can range from $250 to upwards of $1000, but they’re a status symbol that is also super comfortable.

Slowaski points out that any of the Nike collaborations created by the late designer Virgil Abloh, such as Air Jordan 1’s, are hot items. Abloh, who began his career as Kanye West’s creative consultant, combined streetwear with high fashion to leave a groundbreaking legacy behind - as well as super exclusive sneakers.

Scoop Drip customers can even take sneaker designing into their own hands with Angelus acrylic leather paint, a trend that grew in popularity over 2020 and 2021 during the Covid pandemic. Slowaski suggests deglossing a pair of Air Force 1’s and creating your own custom sneakers. Anyone can dream up their own one of a kind designs with Scoop Drip’s massive amount of Angelus Paints, which can be used on any leather or canvas sneakers. The bottom line is, you don’t have to be a sneakerhead to feel welcome at Scoop Drip. Slowaski and his close knit staff are more than happy to walk you through the sneaker buying process. Stop by to trade in your old Dunks or check out their ever changing inventory, and support a local business run by one of Worcester’s own.

420

IN THE 0 5 8

TRAVIS DUDA

Go with the Good Stuff

Are you feeling stuck on what to do for the weed lover you love this Valentine’s Day? One of the favorite gifts I received for the holiday was a Reese’s Peanut Butter Cup heart box with some of the candies replaced with nugs of flower. It felt as obvious as the combination of chocolate and peanut butter. Other presentation methods to consider include a bouquet of pre-rolls, some nice chocolate and a card, or just in a jar thrown in their general direction. We are usually an easy crowd to please. However, if you were looking to step it up, consider making an infused feast. There are tons of recipes online that can walk you through the extraction phase, or you can find oils at your local dispensary. If it were me, I’d consider a service like Dinner at Mary’s. This HelloFresh for the highly enlightened, allows anyone to cook a deliciously infused meal in their kitchen. They offer a new menu each week of tantalizingly tasty and herbally healthy three course meals. Unfortunately, they currently only service the Greater Boston area. Maybe with enough support and attention, we can see expansion to Worcester soon? Check out their Instagram for more info: @dinner.at.marys.

The Miracle Drug?

I’m sure you’ve seen the headline, “Cannabis Prevents Covid Infection in Laboratory Study” by now. It was a news article that went around stoner social media like wildfire. Of course most people that posted it didn’t actually read the article, which to its credit was very interesting. If you’re here for the hype, I’ll save you the time. We haven’t proven that smoking weed is going to save the world...yet. What the Oregon State University research did show is that cannabigerolic acid and cannabidiolic acid, two compounds that can be found in cannabis, were identified as having potential to combat coronavirus. They essentially block the virus’s growth process, which prevents it from infecting. However, this was found in a controlled setting and not in a human test subject. At this point, it’s highly likely that you know a daily smoker or two who have caught Covid. Obviously this isn’t the preventative measure we all hoped it would be, but the potential is very exciting. So much knowledge and understanding comes from studies like these. More information and appropriate uses will help further destigmatize cannabis.

Pot-Pourri

We’ve all been there. Bag of herb in the pocket but your papers ended up in a puddle. Or your buddy just smashed your glass piece. Whatever the occurrence, what do you do next? Improvise of course! Like many, I’ve done the tin foil bowl, soda bottle bong, and even make a point to use an apple every fall. My friend Anna (@anna.bis_babe on IG) was in a similar situation and tried something I’ve never heard of. She and her date surveyed their scene and settled on rose petals as their most viable option. She warmed up the petals so they were malleable and then stacked two next to each other until it was approximately the length of a joint paper. Then she sprinkled in her flower and got to work rolling. It took a couple tries to roll it tight enough to smoke but a stoner always finds a way! She said the petals provided a slight floral taste, however the flower inside was more powerful. I applaud the creativity and hope someone gives me some roses this Valentine’s Day so I can try too.

Thanks for reading and happy trails! -Travis (@hunchbacktravis)

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STYLE Savvy

APRIL GODDARD

Hello Pulse readers, and Happy Valentine’s Day!

It’s hard to believe that we are already into the second month of the new year, time flies! One of the most exciting parts of a new season is switching up old routines, habits, and style for the new and innovative, and this month is no exception. Particularly exciting is the idea of having another fun holiday to get dressed up for. Try out that new hairstyle or makeup item when you’re celebrating the season of love with friends, family, or a special person in your life. With so many exciting trends on the horizon, there are plenty of fresh ideas for everyone’s unique personal style. So, without further ado, read on to discover the new and now that you’ll want to try not only for Valentine’s day, but well into the spring months of 2022!

90’s Hair is all that: Deep side parts, side bangs, and volume galore! 90’s hairstyle is back and making waves across the runways and into street style for the biggest change to hair that we have seen in a long time. Although the side part specifically has been knocked by Gen Z as “millennial” and “dated”, what’s old is new again as we start to see more swoopy side bangs and parts than ever.

The Square Sole: This one has been around for a while, but you will notice the trend in abundance now and continuing into later this year as yet another fad from previous decades storms the fashion scene. Any kind and style of shoe can be constructed with a square sole, adding a more modern take on classic silhouettes.

The Gladiator: While we’re on the topic of shoes, the gladiator style is making a huge comeback. Particularly with, but not limited to sandals, lace up the calf gladiator shoes can be easily worn as heels or flats, and can be paired with nearly any outfit including shorts, jeans, dresses, and skirts for a trendy vibe.

Brown and Beige neutrals: We are still seeing some pops of color, but they’re now much more subtle, and typically paired with nearly monochromatic outfits consisting of brown, beige, and cream-colored neutral tones. One of my favorite ways to rock this trend is in a completely monochromatic way. If you still love the burst of color, you can definitely pair your outfit with a neon bag, nails, or even makeup and shoes in order to add some visual interest to your attire.

90’s Makeup: This can really be whatever 90’s makeup means to you, but many of the trends “IT” celebrities of the time used to rock, are back in a fresh new way (minus the pencil thin eyebrows, but if that’s your thing go for it). The most notable changes are matte makeup, brown tones, and going much heavier on the eyeliner.

So have fun, try new things, and take bits and pieces from these fresh trends this season for a fashion-forward Valentine’s day!