DINING REVIEW ELLER'S RESTAURANT

(508) 892-3925

WWW.ELLERSRESTAURANT.COM

Just past the Cherry Valley line on Route 9, Eller’s sign lights up the night making the place difficult to miss. Take a step through the door and you get the scent of popcorn popping, a rock anthem playing and multiple flatscreens are variously tuned to local ads, keno and sports. It’s a vista of booths and tables, open space and plenty of families. All brought to you with friendly greetings and prompt service.

My first impression of Eller’s was of an excellent place to serve the Leicester community. It’s certainly large enough; the main dining area feels spacious with gray wood-tiled floors and walls of horizontal planking stained multiple colors.

My friend and I were seated at a booth that was illuminated overhead by a pendant light fashioned from a shiny box grater. First impressions aside, the real test of any restaurant is, of course, its food. So we dove into the menu to make our decisions. It was no surprise to find the dominant focus was on American Comfort cuisine.

Though Eller’s entire appetizer list was worthy of consideration, we both gravitated to their chicken wings, but that’s as far as our agreement went. I was drawn to their Peanut Butter & Jelly Wings. My friend was repelled by the very concept. Heather, our waiter, suggested half an order each. Perfect!

On this we could agree: Eller’s wings were superb. Their crispy exteriors were loaded with sticky spicy-sweet flavor and plenty of tender meat clinging to the bone. My PB&J wings were coated with Thai peanut sauce that looked crumbly but had a smooth texture barely hinting of peanut flavor. They were served over a thin pool of grape vodka jelly sauce. What a unique flavor-textural combo! It’s no wonder they’re becoming so popular.

My friend’s Buffalo wings were also an instant hit with a level of spicy heat that cleared his sinuses, even after a dunking in soothing blue cheese dressing. As much as we tried to eat them with a fork and knife, Eller’s wings are ultimately a hands-on experience. We both needed showers when finished.

If asked to describe American cuisine I’d list at least half the items in Eller’s menu. What I’d never think to mention, though, is Osso Bucco. Yet there it was in Eller’s list of specials. Always a favorite, my friend found it irresistible.

Eller’s version of Osso Bucco braises pork shanks in wine with onions, peppers, carrots, and tomato. The braising process must take hours; the meat was so tender its bones fell away effortlessly. It was served over a deep bed of mashed potatoes awash with the braising vegetables and broth.

I kept my selection All-American with their Pulled Pork and Cornbread entrée. Eller’s execution of this simple-sounding dish went far beyond what I’ve come to expect.

Heather delivered a huge cake of cornbread topped with meaty-thick shreds of pulled pork dripping with BBQ sauce. But no kidding, this hunk of cornbread dominated the plate; four-inches square, two inches thick! My immediate reaction was of worried concern, for if Eller’s cornbread was dry and tasteless my meal would be a resounding dud.

Relief swept over me with my first bites of this combo. The cornbread was fluffy and moist and sweet with a sticky-sweet surface. The pulled pork wasn’t drenched in cloying sauce; Eller’s BBQ sauce had a balance of sweet, tart, and smoky flavors. A monkey dish of creamy coleslaw provided cool crunchy contrast.

The topping of pork had been dwarfed by all that cornbread, but I soon realized how generous the meat portion was; there was no way I was going to finish my meal. Half went home for lunch the next day.

As we were finishing our meals a DJ was wandering table to table distributing Singo cards, an adaptation of bingo set to music. People were firing up Shazam on their phones, readying to play. We paid up and took off, more than comforted by the cuisine at Eller’s and narrowly escaping the musical talents of Cherry Valley.

what’s happening in the restaurant scene PAUL GIORGIO

IT’S THAT TIME. Worcester Restaurant Week is underway. Over 40 restaurants in the area are offering a special 3-course menu for $28.23 . Check out the restaurants on Wotcesterrestweek.com or on Facebook. Sponsors include Greater Good Brewery, Pepsi & Discover Central Mass. Media Partners include Pulse Magazine, Radio Worcester, WXLO, & Nash. WRW runs through March 11th.

NEARBY. La Belena Ristorante recently opened in Lunnenburg, which is just a short ride up I 190. The owner is Joshua Champagne. He is the brother*of Niche Hospitality’s Steve Champagne. Good food runs in the family.

ITS NOT THE UNIVERSITY .The iconic Oxford Casual Dining formerly owned by Paul Daddah, which is Haddad spelled backwards was recently purchased by the Velius Family. The husband was the former chef at the manor, before it was sold.

WAKE UP AND SMELL THE COFFEE. Brilla Coffee Roasters located in Northboro has opened its long-awaited new location on Main Street in Holden. More smelling coffee Acoustic Java announced recently announced that it sols its original shop located at 932 Main St. to Zaida Melendez. The new shop, Belen’s Casa de Pan, will continue to carry Acoustic Java’s coffee and teas, but will offer Salvadoran baked goods, including quesadillas and semitas.

HE LOOKS A LOT OLDER THAN 20. Piccolo’s Restaurant on Worcester’s Shrewsbury Street Recently celebrated its 20th year in business. The Italian restaurant featured meals for $20 as a reward to loyal customers. The restaurant is owned by John Piccolo.

A DIFFERENT WILLYS. Willy’s Latin Cuisine recently opened at 226 Chandler Street in Worccester. The restaurant is owned by William Argumedo and features food from his native el Salvador.

IN MORE DOWNTOWN NEWS. Pleasant Streets Noamesco has added a full kitchen and will be serving West and East African food.

WHAT WILL NORTH BROOKFIELD DO ? Statz Restaurant & Lounge on Main St in North Brookfield has closed. It billed itself as the best bar in town. Maybe the only one?

FORK IT OVER. This annual Girl scout cookie competition will be held May 10th at Worcester’s Polar Park. Chefs compete for the best meal using cookies as their main ingredient.

ISN’T IT ROMANTIC. Bocado Tapas and wine bar on Worcester’s Winter Street, was recently named thew most romantic restaurant in Massachusetts by Yelp. They must put something in the Paella.

AS WE REPORTED EARLIER. Park Ave’s Sake Bomb closed its doors the day after Valentine’s Day. We hear that gift cards will be honored at their other restaurants-Wan Wang and Kenichi. We also hear that the space will be taken over by a restaurant that features Spanish food.

THIS IS JUST WILD. Marlboro’s Wildwood Steakhouse which opened in 1924 is turning off the stoves. Owner Gerry Seymour is hanging up his apron. This place has been a mainstayon the Martlboro dinning cene for 99 years.

IN SOME GOOD NEWS. 1885 will be opening soon on Worcester’s Green Street directly opposite the Plunkett Plaza entrance to Polar Park. They are taking over oneof the former storefront of Westerman Restaurant supply. 1885 you ask? That’s the year the building was built.