Dining Review

DINING DINING REVIEW REVIEW

‘OLO PIZZA

40 MILLBROOK ST., WORCESTER (508) 459-1959 ‘OLOPIZZA.COM

BERNIE WHITMORE

Pandemic precautions: Arriving early one Saturday evening, hoping to be seated, we found ‘Olo’s small parking lot packed with cars, so I automatically assumed we’d be forced to revert to take-out service. That’s OK, what else is new? On entry, though, we were surprised to be offered an isolated booth near the kitchen’s meal pickup counter. And no wonder; ‘Olo has several distinct dining areas (one complete with synth-turfed bocce courts); roomy enough to accomplish pandemic-spacing while providing plenty of in-door seating.

Pandemic precautions: Arriving early one Saturday evening, hoping to be seated, we found ‘Olo’s small parking lot packed with cars, so I automatically assumed we’d be forced to revert to take-out service. That’s OK, what else is new? On entry, though, we were surprised to be offered an isolated booth near the kitchen’s meal pickup counter. And no wonder; ‘Olo has several distinct dining areas (one complete with synth-turfed bocce courts); roomy enough to accomplish pandemic-spacing while providing plenty of in-door seating.

Suddenly we were dining in public! Remember how that went? You’d be welcomed, tonight our server was Bridget, order drinks and then browse the menu for apps and entrées. I started out with a glass of Juice Freak, an IPA from Westborough’s Cold Harbor Brewing. The hazy orange brew was my first draft in months, its crunchy citrus bitter flavor had me freaking with praise.

Then Bridget presented our Chopped Antipasto. Unless your kitchen is attached to a green-grocer and delicatessen this plate-load of mixed greens, vegetables, meats and cheeses would be impossible to construct at home. From it, the two of us each made three dishes of salad: a mix of chopped romaine lettuce, strands of mesclun greens, slivers of sweet red onion, deep-flavored black olives and chunks of green peppers and fresh tomatoes. Other standouts: tender roasted pepper strips, quarters of fresh mozzarella balls, romaine shavings, bits of salami and pepperoni.

It all came draped with thin slices of prosciutto ham and was dressed with a tart red wine vinaigrette. Such a pile of salad! What initially looked impossible to finish was obliterated in minutes. Sometimes your body just craves fresh.

When it comes to entrées, ‘Olo’s sticks close to their specialties: Pizza (white or red) and Sandwiches (‘sandos’). If I’d thrown a dart at the menu, I’d be happy with any random selection it landed on. But we were drawn to a specialty they feature two nights per week: Detroit Style Pizza.

Yes, Detroit Style is a deep-dish pizza. For the legion who’ve sworn fealty to Neapolitan, I don’t ap’Ologize for ordering it. I too have made the pilgrimage to Naples and had my life changed by their ethereal pies. But it’s a large enough planet for other pizza experiences.

Trust me, try ‘Olo’s Detroit style pizza, especially if you’re able to dine-in and get it really fresh. Our table was near the kitchen and had a view of the dazzling, re-tiled pizza oven, so I could watch it being made. This is a rectangular pizza; the base is a chewy yeasty dough ladled with zesty-fresh marinara and a thick layer of brick cheese. Three formats are offered: cheese, pepperoni or half cheese/ half pepperoni. We chose cheese / pepperoni.

When all this bakes in the blasting 600-degree heat of ‘Olo’s oven, the edges of the pan sear the mild-flavored brick cheese to form a cheesy-rich blackened crust that I found insanely delicious. Add to that the spicy-salt baked pepperoni slices, the bright acid of their fresh tomato marinara and all that thick yeasty dough: it made for a Detroit-style wall of flavor.

If it had been a non-Detroit evening, I would have loved to have tried one of ‘Olo’s white pizzas, especially the Hot Calabrese Pie. With fresh oregano, roasted peppers, caramelized onions, fresh mozzarella and soppressata, it sounds like another dish of hearty flavors.

The evening at ‘Olo’s felt like time travel; after months of isolated takeout dining, we were suddenly seated at a table in a public space enjoying friendly hospitality, tasty fresh cuisine accompanied by a glass of draft – all in a space that echoed with a soundtrack straight from the disco-seventies. Who saw that coming?