Dining Review

DINING REVIEW OFF THE RAILS

BERNIE WHITMORE 90 COMMERCIAL STREET, WORCESTER PHONE: (508) 304-6411 OFFTHERAILSWORCESTER.COM

Dinner at Off the Rails followed by a Railers hockey game: it seemed like a perfect Saturday night in downtown Worcester. As soon as we saw the crowds around the DCU Center, though, the reality of post-pandemic America collided with our plans as we realized thousands of others happened to agree! The restaurant was packed and booked for the night.

We ended up with hotdogs at Coney Island (always a happy event) and delayed dinner at Off The Rails till Sunday.

When you visit their website or take one step through their doorway, it’s immediately obvious that Off The Rails is country-music themed. Not the traditional “I hear a train a-comin’” country music standards – OTR’s soundtrack is shinier pop-country with huge crossover appeal. The cuisine is pure Americana – classic recipes with imaginative variations and roots in the Deep South. It grabbed our attention and didn’t let go till the last bite.

Another major theme is bourbon. The menu offers an extensive list with informative descriptions that will be helpful should you care to assemble your own flight. Beyond that, though, bourbon flavor adds depth to many items in OTR’s meal menu. For refreshment I turned my attention to their list of draft beers. miliar with and trust this brewer. Pouring dark as Coca Cola, its thin lacy tan head was creamy-rich; peanut flavor was mildly assertive. Overall, this stout let roasted malts and deep chocolatey flavor dominate. Yeah, it was a bit sweet, but well within my tolerance.

We could have started with any item in OTR’s innovative appetizer list; each of them had promise, though their Gas Station Eggs (pickled eggs with hot sauce) would have required a whopping leap of faith.

Instead, we shared a plate of Texas Lolli-pops; lengths of andouille sausage wrapped in thick meaty bacon and then grilled and drenched in brown sugar bourbon barbeque sauce. Spicy andouille, smokey bacon, sweet bourbon served over creamy coleslaw: a memorable flavor profile that proved, once again: it’s always better with bacon.

My entrée, Shrimp and Grits, is an item I once regarded with skepticism as it gained traction here in New England. OTR made me a true believer with their thick tomatoey sauce rooted in the trinity of Cajun cooking – bell pepper, onion and celery. The chef united these ingredients with a master’s skill in the balancing of flavor and texture to create a delectable sauce worthy of five very large juicy shrimp. What further delighted me was their plating of my meal: the shrimp were served alongside a large portion of creamy cheddar grits – not over them. This allowed me to sample each individually and mix by the forkful. Perfect! Lovers of fried chicken will take note of OTR’s Buttermilk & Herb Fried Chicken. A full leg quarter and a wing section were coated in a crackly-crunch of tasty breading that kept the meat incredibly moist. The meal was served with more of that crisp coleslaw and a cup of creamed corn. However, this wasn’t the canned corn you had as a kid – the kernels tasted fresh and looked as if they’d been sliced right off the ear and were cooked in rich truffled cream sauce.

All these robust flavors served as a prelude to dessert. Our serving of Bourbon Caramel Bread Pudding was, hands down, the best. Ever. Sorry New Orleans, Off The Rails’ bread pudding was served in thick slices studded with chunks of honest-pure melty dark chocolate, and topped with bourbon-flavored caramel, all gooey and sweet and dabbed with a big dollop of fresh whipped cream. What I especially loved was the crust, chewy with nuggets of chocolatey char.

My neighbors don’t hesitate to point out that OTR’s Commercial Street location has bad mojo; many others have tried and failed to succeed here. Yeah, the weight of history could be a challenge. But I suspect the outcome will be different this time: business alliances with the Railers hockey; addition of a music venue, and linkage to the Palladium Theater should keep Off The Rails in focus. Cuisine the likes of which we enjoyed this evening should keep their prospects squarely on track.

what’s happening in the restaurant scene PAUL GIORGIO

NEW NAME, SAME FOOD. West Boylston’s Cheoy Lee II, a fixture near the reservoir since it was Nancy Chang’s, has a new name and a new owner. Sherry Ngan recently purchased the restaurant and has renamed it Bamboo Garden.

MORE ASIAN NEWS. Yong Shing in Auburn Center was recently sold to Min Xia Li, who also owns an Asian restaurant in Stoughton, Mass. The new owners plan on making a few changes including adding sushi to the menu.

AND EVEN MORE. The eastward expansion of Baba Sushi begins, as Wilson Wang, owner of Worcester’s Baba Sushi on Park Ave, recently purchased Fotini’s Restaurant in Bolton. He has named the eatery Baba Sushi and Legacy Kitchen.

FROM TOP TO BOTTOM. The Steak Loft in Northborough, Massachusetts closed down for renovations. It was slated to reopen on March 2 after being closed since February 15. There will also be a name change… it will be renamed “The Cellar”. Fitting name seeing that is in the back, corner, basement of a small strip mall.

IT APPEARS THAT LUCKY’S GOT LUCKY. Lucky’s Café applied for common victualler license to operate at 10 Chestnut Street in Downtown Worcester. 10 Chestnut Place is otherwise known as One Chestnut Place, the home of Fallon Health.

AND NOT SO LUCKY. The Wind Tiki in Webster, MA landmark burned to the ground on St Patrick’s Day, thus depriving the residents of South County of one of their few Chinese eateries.

FROM ITALIAN TO MEXICAN. Oli’s Tomato Pie, owned by the Oliveri family, closed during the pandemic. Now a new Mexican restaurant, Cali-Burritos Burrito Grill, will take its place on Worcester’s Belmont Street.

NO WINE ON THE VINE. It looks like the Wine Vine will be no more. Momo Palace, a Nepalese soup and dumplings eatery, will be opening a 2nd location. The other one is in the Public Market.

MORE WINE NEWS. Bocado Tapas Bar will be hosting a wine dinner on April 5 at their Worcester location on Winter Street in the Canal District. The next night they will host it at their Leominster spot. The cost is $100.

MOVING DAY. It looks like Bay State Shawarma, located on Worcester’s Water Street, will be moving down the street. They recently purchased a building on Lamartine St.

BARRE MILL CLOSING. Owner Nick Coppolino of the Barre Mill Restaurant in Barre, MA recently announced that the historic Barre Mill Restaurant is turning off the range after 35 years in operation.

NOT A FIRESIDE CHAT. The Salem Cross Inn in West Brookfield will be hosting a fireside feast on April 8. The feat is quite popular, so make a reservation. Who doesn’t like beef cooked on a spit in an open fireplace?

GREAT DIVERSITY. A Taste of Monrovia, a Liberian restaurant, opened its doors in the middle of last month. The restaurant is close to city hall in downtown Worcester.

SHANNON JUTRAS

Dear Drinkers,

We have had the opportunity to become better acquainted through this long winter, and I would like to extend my gratitude to you. Thank you for taking the time to read my musings about beer, whether celebrating an award-winning sour, delighting in cozy stouts, or honoring the glory of a shower brewskies.

Today I want to talk to you about something that means even more to me. Something that motivates me each day I rise at dawn, pull on my waterproof boots and climb the steps to the brewhouse: Leveling the playing field for every person who loves beer.

Craft beer has a diversity problem. According to the Brewer’s Association, 93% of breweries are white-owned. Barely 3% are entirely woman-owned. Percentages are even lower for black and indigenous ownership. Meanwhile, the craft beer consumer represents increasingly diverse demographics and a socially aware customer base. There are many innovative, courageous people trying to make a difference in this landscape. Fortunately for us, one approach includes making really good beer.

Global collaboration beers are an increasingly popular way to galvanize around an issue. Two or more breweries join forces to develop a beer shared worldwide. Some provide a recipe template for breweries to follow, others, a special ingredient like the Pink Boots hop blend. Proceeds are donated to support the cause.

Recent collaborations include “All Together” IPA, an initiative by Other Half to show solidarity with the hospitality industry in the early days of COVID lockdowns. “Black is Beautiful'', a stout recipe by Weathered Souls Brewing, raised funds and awareness for racial injustice. The global collabration, “Brave Noise” Pale Ale, emerged right here in Massachusetts to address discrimination and encourage breweries to commit to inclusivity and transparency in their workplaces.

Before all of these, there were Pink Boots collaboration brews, which you can find popping up all over Massachusetts right now, on the heels of International Women’s Day. The Pink Boots Society focuses on education to assist, inspire, and encourage women and non-binary people working in the fermented beverage industry.

Local releases include River Styx’s Chardonnay barrel-aged “Athena”, a 5% sour ale featuring strawberry and champagne available in Fitchburg. Thirsty Robot (also in Fitchburg) and Timberyard Brewing (my stomping grounds) in East Brookfield are slated to release Pink Boots brews this spring. Currently on tap in Worcester is Redemption Rock’s “Spare Us”, a Rye Pale Ale challenging industry professionals to move past empty gestures and address the institutional issues that reinforce patriarchal values in craft beer. Keep an eye out for more Pink Boots releases as the days get warmer.

Finally, even though brewery social media feeds may be temporarily filled with images of women and underrepresented people, please take heed of this solemn reminder. Even when we work in a positive environment with people who champion and support them (and I do), we are never completely insulated from harassment or discrimination, never promised credit for our labor. No matter how experienced, educated, powerful, or renowned an underrepresented person is, there will always be someone - a vendor, customer, associate - questioning our experience, education, power, or worth. Even when we pour our energy and talent into something, even when our contributions are undeniable, someone might deny them.

The real work of dismantling prejudice and harassment is ongoing. It requires all of our support. Fighting for recognition for underrepresented people’s efforts and worth isn’t a thing we get to do once. For me personally, it can feel like just another day as a woman in beer. These challenges can be relentless.

DEREK GRIMM

THE PINT

Derek Grimm wants you to know he is a “big fan of trashy 80s drinks”, including but certainly not limited to fuzzy navels and Alabama slamas. “I like taking really crappy drinks like that and making them better,” he explains.

“Daiquiris are a super simple drink, but there are endless possibilities to create your own variation,” he says, as he effortlessly mixes,“a riff on the extremely poorly named drink, the Pearl Harbor.” Grimm’s new take is Plantation Stiggin’s Fancy Pineapple Rum, Plantation O.F.T.D. Rum, Midori, lime, and sugar, and it’s amazing. Refreshing and fun, but also unpretentiously classy.

WHAT’S DEREK’S FAVORITE PART ABOUT BEING A BARTENDER?

“It's nice to not have to work a 9 to 5 in an office and talk to some guy named Dave about how my weekend was,” he tells me as I laugh. Derek’s not just bartending to avoid watercooler conversations though, he enjoys being creative and connecting with people while he’s behind the bar.

You can visit Derek at the Pint, Valentino’s, or when he feels the need to be creative, one of his pop-ups. “They’re loose and fun,” he says of his events, “they’re meant to showcase the artisan aspect and how different products can play different roles.” Treat yourself to an extremely improved trashy drink from the 80’s, unless your name is Dave and you’re curious about his weekend.

FITNESS FASHION

RACHEL CLINE

These days, workout clothes and sports apparel probably take up the most room in your closet. Even while we navigate our “new normal”, as people are slowly starting to get back to the office, book vacations and actually leave the house, something that has not wavered is our love for comfortable clothes. Whether you’re hitting the gym, doing yoga in your living room or heading out for a night of fun, activewear is a staple in our wardrobes and has become a focal point of our fashion.

So what are some of the hot and trendy fitness styles that should be in your closet? There’s a wide variety, with something for everybody. If you’re in search of stylish and functional items that best suit your workouts while adding to your everyday wardrobe, here’s a few that you just can’t go without.

A good fitting and supportive sports bra is a must – and one that you can take from the gym to the street is even better! Wearing a supportive sports bra that doubles as a top is something you’ll see this year and beyond. Lululemon’s longline bra offers great support and shape, while also serving as a very cute top to wear with jeans or a skirt.

Leggings are definitely here to stay. Lululemon’s Align Pant, Athleta’s Salutation Stash Pocket II 7/8 Tight, Nike’s Dri-FIT Swift Men's Running Tights, and Gym Shark’s Element Baselayer Leggings are a few essentials to have in your closet. You’ll also see more leggings with compression technology to help your workout and an array of fabrics and textures like ribbing and bold colors. Dress up your leggings with a cute dress for a comfortable, chic night out.

Massachusetts small business, Booty by Brabants, has been a pioneer of the legging world for several years now, and owner Kelly Brabants is continuing to pave the way. The leggings-focused company features leggings with fun, interesting and practical textures and patterns, bold colors and cute matching sets. Be sure to follow them on social media! Other local, small businesses to check out include Crane and Lion and No Bull. bra/bike short or more, this trend is a foundational outfit for all. Wear it at the gym, to yoga, or spin class and then throw a jacket on top with some cute booties for a night out. Matching sets reign!

Bike shorts and joggers are continuing to be trendy into 2022, and if you’re looking for another alternative to leggings, a blast from the past is the answer: yoga pants. If you’ve still got yours from the year 2001, great! If not, Beyond Yoga’s Spacedye High Waisted Practice Pant, Free People’s Rib Studio Flare Pants or Alo’s Airbrush High-Waist Flutter Legging are all great options.

Jumpsuits or onesies are also a great option for workouts and running errands. They are super versatile, comfortable and give you all the great benefits of a sports bra, leggings and shapewear in one. Outdoor Voices has some of the best!

In addition to all the great styles of activewear, you’ll find emerging trends in the material and technology of activewear. Earth-friendly brands like Girlfriend, Everlane and Summersalt offer sustainable activewear that is also ethical and responsible. This means their clothes are made from recycled materials, organic cottons or other plant-based materials. Eco-friendly fashion is paving the way for a new and sustainable way to activewear and fashion.

When it comes to innovation, activewear that integrates technology offers a competitive edge and improved activity. Features like embedded sensors to provide guidance through workouts, built in vibrations for movement cues or health-monitoring properties are just a few of the innovative elements of activewear as trends emerge. Under Armour’s Rush even uses infrared technology to fight fatigue and boost muscle strength. Welcome to the future!

Whether it’s going from the gym to the street, bold colors or sustainable materials, activewear style and fashion remains at the forefront of our lives and society. Keep your eye on the activewear world as these trends continue to emerge!

STYLE Savvy

APRIL GODDARD

Spring is officially in full swing, and nothing says it like a change in accessories. One of my favorite things about spring is the shedding of things like hats, gloves, scarves, and mittens to transition into more carefree, lighter accessories. When I think of the change in seasons, I think of vibrant, whimsical, and lighter ways to dress up (or down!) an outfit. A colorful pair of earrings, a number of stacked handmade bracelets, or even some light, sun-shielding hats are easy ways to complete your outfit. Want to know more ways to keep a traditional spring wardrobe fresh and current? Read on to discover what’s new and fresh for this spring season!

The Colorful Earrings: Ear jewelry is a great way to make a statement, and these earrings are no exception. I absolutely adore the love and sincerity that the feel of a handmade set of earrings brings to any outfit. Handmade jewelry with a meaning can be so powerful and this set of rainbow earrings is a wonderful example. Buen Camino Jewelry’s travel inspired, bohemian jewelry offers handmade, heirloom quality necklaces, bracelets, and rings. The “Be a Rainbow” earring collection is a spring fashion must have. The sterling silver accessories are adorable, unique, and are more than just a pretty rainbow. In fact, 10% of all proceeds from them go to the Trevor Project supporting LGTBQ+ youth, giving the wearer more than just the collection’s happy design to smile about.

Handmade Bracelets: Remember the hand-woven string bracelets that we all fondly referred to as “friendship bracelets” in past decades? Well this style is back in a new and refreshed way, appearing in various renditions from multiple notable fashion houses, as well as fast-fashion brands, and small businesses too. Expect these colorful woven bracelets to be huge for this spring and summer. Don’t be afraid to mix, match, and stack. Want a fun activity to try with your friends or even your kids? Take on a little DIY project and make your own.

Hats are Always in: Especially during the spring months as we are all getting used to the sun’s strength again. Be sure to protect your skin with sunscreen and a fabulous floppy sun hat or baseball cap. You can really get creative with the styles, colors, and sizes of your hat, and hats can definitely complete a whole look easily when there is just something missing. Bad hair day? Grab a hat. With so many styles, colors, and brands to choose from, there is something for everyone at every price point.

OUT & ABOUT

THREADS BY LOVE YOUR LABELS: BRINGING QUEER AND TRANS YOUTH TOGETHER THROUGH FASHION AND DESIGN

GIULIANO D’ORAZIO

If you’ve been paying attention to the news over the last several months, you’ve no doubt heard about the onslaught of restrictive legislation being pushed forward in states like Texas and Florida, aimed at policing and marginalizing the existence of queer and trans youth. In Florida, the “Don’t Say Gay” bill threatens to remove any mention of queerness and homosexuality in the school’s health curriculum. In Texas, conservatives are attempting to pass a law which would criminalize parents of trans children who seek out gender-affirming medical care.

Although these are some of the most recent attacks on the LGBTQ+ community, they confirm the continuation of long-standing hatred and bias against queer youth. This is why affirming and celebrating queer kids continues to be of utmost importance. There continues to be a serious lack of opportunities for these kids to create space and share experiences together. This is one of the motivations behind Threads, a fashion and design program by Love Your Labels.

First launched in 2019, Threads, run by local nonprofit organization Love Your Labels, is an eight-week fashion design and identity development program for highschool-age youth. As stated on the Love Your Labels website, “Students use fashion design as a lens to discuss personal expression, gender, and sexuality with the goal of helping youth on their journey of self-discovery”.

The program is hosted in partnership with Creative Hub Worcester, and takes place at their Youth Arts Space at 653 Main Street in Worcester. Other sponsors include Health Care Advocates International, Brother Sewing, Redemption Rock Brewing Co., Bay State Savings Bank, Webster Five, DCU, and Worcester Arts Council. Thanks to their sponsorship, this program is free of charge for all students!

Threads runs on Wednesday evenings from 6-8pm starting April 27, and ending on June 15. The program will culminate with a Youth Fashion Show, which is planned for late June. The deadline to apply is April 6, so students should apply ASAP!

Instruction will be provided by Sam Donovan, Project Runway all star, alongside the Love Your Labels education team. There is no need for prior sewing or fashion design experience, as each student will learn from the level they’re at. Love Your Labels stresses that although the organization specifically focuses on supporting LGBTQ+ youth, this is a program for all high-school-age students interested in learning more about themselves and how to support each other, and there will be no exclusions based on identity.

In the interest of transparency, I do serve on the board of Love Your Labels, and am personally involved in helping to facilitate Threads. I was a part of the team during the first iteration in 2019, and I can wholeheartedly express that it was a beautiful and joyous experience to see students come together with a shared love of creativity and a focus on identity and self-expression.

I believe in the work being done here, and I recognize the important role programs like this can play in the lives of queer and trans young people. Simply put, I think Threads is one of the coolest and most meaningful things going on in our community this spring, so please encourage any students you may know to apply, and keep an eye out for the Youth Fashion Showcase in June!

Visit loveyourlabels.org/threads-2022 to apply today.

Bio Giuliano D’Orazio (he/him) is a Worcester native, musician, music educator, member of the queer community, and a board member of Love Your Labels.