PulseBrew

RYAN CASHMAN

Last year, I reviewed Stormalong Cider and found it to be the best hard cider I had yet tasted. I can now say I’ve found one that is better: Deep-Rooted Cider, out of Northbridge.

Foppema’s Farm is a Northbridge institution. The clientele is made up mostly of locals, who holler greetings and good tidings at neighbors and friends from across the packed vegetable crates. The popular farmstand operates between the months of June and October, so by the time you are reading this you will, unfortunately, not be able to visit and purchase a bottle or two of their excellent, 100 percent homegrown hard cider. Still, better you know now so you can prepare for next year! The tagline on the bottle of Deep-Rooted Cider reads: “Hand picked apples, a cool and slow fermentation, and low inputs give this cider its aroma and flavor. The fruit that is grown with much love in our orchard is the heart of this cider.” A visit to Foppema’s Farm will incline you to believe that the bottle’s proclamation speaks the truth. The farm, and those who give it business, are the epitome of the phrase: “Know Your Farmer.”

But onto the cider itself. Deep-Rooted is a bit of an open-air secret. It’s not easy to find since it’s only sold on Saturday’s and not at the stand. It’s sold behind the shop in its own small tent, under which you’ll find a very basic operation: folding table, sample bottles, and a black cash box. Lucas Foppema, from whose mind Deep-Rooted sprung, was the chief salesman when I visited to purchase his craft beverage.

At present there are only two ciders available: Mac & Friends, and Odds & Ends. The color of the labels provides subliminal hints of the flavors that you’re about to experience. Mac & Friends, labeled in blue, is rather reminiscent of a tart white wine. The color is clear, with ever so subtle notes of green. It’s a sipping cider, one that you’ll likely drink slowly in order to ponder the flavors. Made with Macintosh, Cortland, and Empire, the first sip comes off as sharp, but as you drink on the flavor morphs into a crispness that encourages the sought after: “Ahhh!”

Odds & Ends, labeled in red, is made with the most varied assortment of apples I have ever seen. As follows: Macintosh, Empire, Chance Seedling, Rhode Island Greening, Hyslop Crabapple, Golden Delicious, Gala, and Honeycrisp. This is the sweeter of the two, but only just. There is the ever-present air of mystery in this cider, due to it being made with a “mystery melon” apple grown especially in the Foppema orchards. This is a golden cider, with a more savory and warm flavor profile than its sibling, making for easy and enjoyable drinking.

Perhaps the best part of this column is the opportunity it provides for me to explore and discover some of the amazing hidden gems Worcester County has to offer. So while you may, or may not, have missed it this year, be sure to visit Foppema’s next autumn and grab a bottle of their excellent cider. You won’t be disappointed.