Travelog December Edition: Go for a different December by Standard Group PLC

Travel #JIONEE KENYA

Go for a different

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DECEMBER 2019

December

The Standard

EDITOR’S WORD

Why we travel “Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn’t do than by the ones you did do...Explore. Dream. Discover”

WHAT’S COOKING Pg 21

THE STORY BEHIND Pg 8-9

MADE IN KENYA Pg 31

These words by Mark Twain should be your mantra as you wind up the year. I have encountered a few people for who do not see any benefit in travel. To this bunch, travel is an expensive and time draining activity that only rich people should engage in. To them, paper chasing and politicking is of more benefit. While I do not dispute the importance of the latter, I know firsthand the benefits of travelling. My note for this issue is what I have gained in the pursuit of travel. For starters, it has created a livelihood, not only for me but for many others who earn an honest living curating travel. In barely a decade, a thriving travel community has gained footing and for the first time since independence, we have a travel publication run by Kenyans. I will not even touch on all the families supported by an industry providing travelrelated services and products. The memories I have banked are enough to fill a book-a very big one and I reckon I will have many tales for my grand children sim-

ply because of travel. Every time I visit a new place, I not only try something new, but also get to know myself better. Travel enhances creativity and offers a shift in perspective. One of my relatives that I look up to has a distaste for a particular race rising from a bad personal experience. I picked up this distaste inadvertently and carried hate without a fair assessment. It was not until I travelled to a country whose dominant race was my fear that my perception changed. I met very many good-natured people. Travel did that. It made me more tolerant. Are you depressed? Why don’t you get on the road a litle more and I guarantee you will feel much better. From my observation, kamati ya roho chafu tend to be people who never live and never leave their geographical centre. After all said and done, travelling makes you love your home more. It allows you to see the good in you and celebrate it. That is what Travelog does. So, what has travel done for you? Write to us on travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

Thorn Mulli

ABROAD Pg 24-25 EDITOR IN CHIEF: Ochieng Rapuro GROUP EXECUTIVE EDITOR AND HEAD OF NEWS: Kipkoech Tanui I MANAGING EDITOR: Denis Galava I EDITOR: Thorn Mulli EDITOR, PARTNERSHIPS AND PROJECTS: Andrew Kipkemboi MANAGER, PRINT CREATIVE: Dan Weloba I CREATIVE DESIGNERS: Lydia Amusolo, Alice Ariri, Gilbert Sigey, Paul Ndiang’ui, Virginia Borura, Benson Wanjau I CONTRIBUTORS: Audrey Korir,

Caroline Chebet, Jayne Rose Gacheri, Jimmy Mwangi, Lubnar Abdulhalim, Ivy Waridi, Tamara Britten I PHOTOGRAPHY: David Gichuru I BRAND MANAGER: Seth Enos Registered at the GPO as a newspaper. The Standard is printed and published by the proprietors THE STANDARD GROUP PLC Email: travelog@standardmedia.co.ke Follow us on Instagram: @TravelogKe Twitter: @TravelogKe Facebook: Travelog Ke Website: travelog.ke Take a selfie as a couple with the December issue of Travelog and share it on any of our social media platforms for a chance to win three nights on full-board basis at either Ciala Resort Kisumu or Diani Reef Beach Hotel. Hottest couples with the most likes wins.

WESLEY MAIYO, NOVEMBER WINNER OF CIALA RESORT KISUMU GIFT VOUCHER

3 [David Gichuru]

THE GREATEST MASAI MARA PHOTOGRAPHER OF THE YEAR AWARD CEREMONY

Kenya Airways cabin crew pictured with the event MC, Sheila Mwanyigha.

The finalists, their safari guides pictured along with the competition’s judges.

Two of the safari guides who will be travelling on Kenya Airways to the UK to watch a Premier League football match (from left): Ivy Someren (Kenya Airways cabin crew), Ursula Siling (Kenya Airways CCO), Leshan Sayialel (Naibor Camp Safari Guide), Sebastian Mikosz (Kenya Airways CEO), Daudi Ledukan (Talek Bush Camp Safari Guide) and Christine Wangechi (Kenya Airways Cabin Crew).

Finalist and winner for the month of August, James Kaani Nampaso pictured with his photograph, “Giraffe on Sunset”.

Kenya Airways cabin crew pictured with the photograph that won The Greatest Masai Mara Photographer of the Year for 2019, “Juxtaposition” by Lee-Anne Robertson.

KENYA TOURISM FEDERATION TOURISM NETWORKING GALA

L-R, Mike Macharia (CEO KAHC), Fred Kaigua (CEO KATO) and Agatha Juma (Director Engage Kenya)

L-R, Deepa Darbar (Director Sawa sawa Africa) and Fatma Muse (Tourism CS adviser)

L-R, Mohammed Hersi (Chairman KTF), Joe Okudo (PS Tourism), Aashit Shah (CEO Kingsway Tyres) stepped out looking dapper.

The hosts (Trademark Hotel team) all smiles.

Kenya Association of Women in Tourism members looking resplendent at the event.

4 SPLENDID SPACES Follow us on... Instagram: @TravelogKe Twitter: @TravelogKe Facebook: TravelogKe Website: travelog.ke

Samburu’s

ﬁnest

asaab offers an unforgettable combination of wildlife encounters, cultural interaction and serenity in an elegant Moroccan-inspired lodge. Located in Kenya’s northern Samburu lands, this lodge allows guests a glimpse into life in these arid lands full of rich cultural traditions. Private plunge pools, passionate local Samburu guides and a helicopter on standby for exploring Kenya’s remote northern valleys and deserts, make Sasaab a special and unique experience..

The Standard

TRAVEL TALK Follow us on Instagram: @TravelogKe Twitter: @TravelogKe Facebook: Travelog Ke Website: travelog.ke

Tourists at Jomo Kenyatta Public Beach in Mombasa. [Omondi Onyango]

By Lubnar Abdulhalim travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

ecember is here with us and soon enough the shoreline will be congested from droves of holidaymakers. It’s no secret that Kenyans love to retreat to the coast at the slightest mention of a holiday, so much that you will hear phrases like Mombasa raha and Kuingia Mombasa harusi, kutoka matanga. Truth or myth, here are a few pointers for our esteemed guests when they come for holidays:

Just like the surrounding Indian Ocean waters, we move in slow, calm waves. We are relaxed people; we know it, and are totally okay with it. Our leisurely and moderated pace should not in any way make you assume that we are in any way lazy, unbothered, or have nothing urgent to do. On the other hand, we are averse to the chaos and raucousness and we are doing just ﬁne as we are. No one would want to come to our habitat if it weren’t for this solace and calmness that you oftentimes criticise. We know that the coast can be quite hot and even hotter during the December. Please do not worry about our hijabs and buibuis. We

Take note when Coasting this December The esteemed hosts of Kenya‘s traditional holiday destination have an ask for holiday makers live here and that heat has become part of us. And before you ask, yes, we are comfortable covering up in black under the scorching sun. Please acquaint yourself with the coastal lingua franca. Swahili is a very beautiful language with deep historical roots, and we are its proud custodians. Remove from your mind that Swahili speakers are less educated or uncivilised just because they speak Kiswahili and desist from talking down at them with your seemingly ‘advanced language’. . People from the coast are kind-hearted. We value goodwill and are always ready to assist anyone. Please note, however, that when we decide to show

you directions or assist you with water or literally take you on a tour, that is not a cue for unending small talk or a cue to give out our phone numbers. Also, don’t mistake this as us seeking any kind of intimacy (unless otherwise stated). We are simply kind people. Please get used to it. Walk anywhere and I can assure you that you will ﬁnd entrepreneurs working hard and earning their living honestly. Just like any other town, we have our share of idlers and criminals. So, when you get back home, remember to report accurately without exaggerating that we are lazy people. Talk of the women you saw very early before dawn selling those delicious Swahili dishes.

Talk of the many seminars that you saw youth attending. Talk of the protests held continuously to ﬁght for our rights. Talk of the men going to ‘mjengo’ every morning and returning late at night. Help end the stereotype. As Swahili people, we really value our culture and principles. We behave, dress, and talk differently from our upcountry brothers. We, of course, can’t hold our visitors as prisoners to our values, but please; could you try to at least respect our culture? Could you try to be more sensitive to what you say to the locals, or how you dress when amidst the locals or how you behave when invited in someone’s home? We do understand that people come from very diverse cultures and backgrounds and we function in different ways. But as the common saying goes, ‘When you go to Rome, you do as Romans do.’ This is not a rule but more of a humane expectation. If the Coastal women, for example, refuse to shake hands with the male or drink alcohol or party till late night or anything else we’re not comfortable with, remember to not be prejudicial. Respect the culture instead.

December is a paradoxical time for the coastal native. We are not huge fans of all the over-crowded beaches and public spaces, but are happy to embrace guests and shower them with our warmth and kindness. We also dig the business opportunities so on that note Karibuni Mwambao wa pwani.

The Standard

My encounter with a living legend

Republic of Serbia to Kenya ambassador HE Dragan Zupanjevac documents his travels in Kenya. [Courtesy]

Ambassador Dragan Zupanjevac is the representative of the Republic of Serbia to Kenya and to six other countries in East Africa (Rwanda, Burundi, Somalia, Eritrea and Union of Comoros). By Travel Buff travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

hen I was posted to Kenya as the Serbian ambassador, I started acquainting myself with videos and other features of what lay ahead of me. Having served as an envoy in six other East African countries before, I was pleasantly surprised to be learn that my next posting was to Kenya. When I landed in the country, it was so good to conﬁrm that the YouTube videos were exactly what I was expecting. As a Serbian, I realise that many people outside Europe don’t know much about my country, and it has been my duty to try and educate them. Serbia, located in Eastern Europe, has a very rich history – it is the biggest part of the former Yugoslavia – a great supporter of the independence and anticolonial drive of African countries. Belgrade, its capital, is ranked among the largest and oldest cities in southeastern Europe and is also an incredibly popular travel destination. Historical relation The Serbian relations with Kenya date back to 1970 from our Yugoslav days when the then leader President Tito visited Kenya and held talks with his Kenyan counterpart, Jomo Kenyatta. At the time Yugoslav and Belgrade companies built the Kiambere dam in Kenya from where you get a lot of electricity. They also built the Thika-Nairobi water system. The Serbs are not strangers to Kenya although previously we existed as Yugoslavia. On top of being among the ﬁrst countries to recognise Kenya’s independence in 1963, we’ve

GUEST HOUSE

had an embassy here since then. Further, we are continuing with the Yugoslav pro-African policies here. My personal experience in Kenya has been like a walk down memory lane. I have been to Mount Kenya Safari Hotel which is the same place President Tito, the famous President of Yugoslavia visited in

1970. I have the movie of this visit and one thing I realised when I visited the hotel is that it is exactly the same way it was when President Tito was around, 49 years ago. Kenya is an amazing country and is one of the most important cities in sub-Saharan Africa – it is the financial, commercial and transport hub of Africa. I love the amazing, hardworking and talented people that I have met so far. It also has one of the best safari experiences with the Maasai Mara, Amboseli, Olpejeta ranking high. It also has well known places like those depicted in films like, Out of Africa which won an Oscar’s award in 1985. Whenever I have guests visiting, I make a point to take them David Sheldrick Elephant Orphanage, the Giraffe Centre and the Karen Blixen museum. My favourite Kenyan destination Although I have been to the Coast many times, my most memorable visit was this year October when I went with my wife and colleague during the Mashujaa Day where world marathon runner Eliud Kipchoge was feted for running the marathon in under two hours. I was very excited to meet Mr Kipchoge and I had lunch with him at the Mombasa Governor’s house. I’ve also visited Diani, Malindi and other resorts along the Indian Ocean. I have done deep sea fishing which is another activities that one can do at the coast. I have lots of places I love – I enjoy driving to Naivasha which has some wonderful lodges, but Diani remains my all-time favourite. How to make it better I feel Kenya has great tourism potential, but more needs to be done to promote it. Thankfully, the security concerns that existed before are now a thing of the past. Another plus is the modern airport with many international connection routes. Also, there are worldclass hotels like the Kempinski, Safari Park, Fairmont Norfolk and the Sarova Stanley. All these reasons make Kenya one of the top 20 tourism destinations in Africa. I’m trying to convince your travel agents to go to Belgrade, where we have the international tourism fair, which is one of the biggest in our region.

The Standard

Intriguing tales of some of the most famous animals in Kenya‘s history; meet Kamunyak the oryx adopter and smoking Seb By Jayne-Rose Gacheri

THE STORY BEHIND Follow us on Instagram: @TravelogKe Twitter: @TravelogKe Facebook: Travelog Ke Website: travelog.ke

travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

rom reality shows, documentaries, Hollywood movies and innumerable views on YouTube to Museum displays, some animals have been lucky to become celebrities. Take the fetching tale of Elsa, the lioness raised along her sisters, Big One and Lustica, by game warden George Adamson and his wife Joy Adamson after they were orphaned at only a few weeks old. For a few years in the 1960s, Elsa the lioness was the most famous animal alive. Though her two sisters eventually went to The Netherlands’ Rotterdam Zoo, Elsa was trained by the Adamsons to survive on her own, and was eventually released into the wild. Her story is told in several books by the Adamsons, as well as the 1966 motion picture Born Free. We go down memory lane to recount the stories of other Kenyan celebrity animals.

Tusker Tim captured in a cloud of dust in Amboseli. Only a handful of these giant tuskers, carrying the super tusk gene, remain due to poaching.

+254 Celebrity Animals

Ahmed, Mountain Bull and Satao Ahmed is one of the most famous elephants to have roamed the continent. Born in 1919, Ahmed came from the forests of Marsabit and grew to become a giant whose tusks were presumed to be the longest and heaviest. Ahmed benefited from all the attention, especially when the media blitz led to a 1970 letter-writing campaign by schoolchildren to President Jomo Kenyatta, asking him to protect this treasure. It took little time for the president to declare Ahmed a living monument and provide him with presidential protection: five armed game rangers whose job was to ensure surveillance around the clock. As a result, Ahmed lived a full life and died naturally. Today, a fibreglass replica of Ahmed is displayed on the grounds of the Nairobi National Museum. Inside the museum, his skeleton, and those great tusks, remain under guard. Two equally famous and more recent specimens roaming the Mount Kenya National Park and Tsavo Park respectively were not as lucky. Mountain Bull was found speared to death and his tusks hacked out of his skull while Satao died of poisoning inflicted by poisoned arrows. Both died in 2014. Sebastian the Superstar Chimp Sebastian lived at the Nairobi Animal Orphanage from 1964. He was brought to the Nairobi orphanage at age eight by a family from Zaire that had adopted him. Sebastian endeared himself to visitors with his human-like ability that made him the star attraction at the orphanage for three decades. He would mimic what he saw his visitors do. When given a banana, for instance, he would enthusiastically peel and eat the fruit. He would clap at the end of it all, prob-

The Standard

THE STORY BEHIND

MPs watch Sebastian the Chimpanzee at the Nairobi National Park in 1965. Inset: Seb puffs away at a cigarette to the amusement of onlookers.

ably as a sign of appreciation. Sometimes the visitors would take his friendliness too far. For example, they would offer Seb, as he was fondly called, cigarettes, which he would gladly take with such glee and happily puff away, unaware of the cancer risk that the cigarette sticks carried. The chimp loved his sessions with his visitors dearly and, made sure they left with memorable moments of their encounter with him. Sebastian was found dead in his cage on the morning of July 19, 1996. He was 40-years-old. His body was taken to the Institute of Primate Research in Karen for a postmortem and subsequent research for the institute. In memory of Sebastian, Kenya Wildlife Services (KWS) erected Sebastian Café within the same grounds that used to be his home in his honour and to celebrate him. The eatery sits next to the Sh200 million, 300-seater Sebastian’s Lecture Theatre. Such was his fame!

Kamunyak the oryx calf adopter Perhaps, Disney Live-Action Director, Jon Favreau should have considered shooting The Lioness Kamunyak Queen of the Samburu Wilderness, as opposed to re-shooting The Lion King. So, who was Kamunyak? She was a lioness who lived Samburu National Reserve. In 2002, the lioness had naturalists on their toes with her unnatural behaviour of adopting oryx calves, that otherwise, would have been her prey. She became a celebrity overnight when a group of tourists spotted her with an oryx calf lying side by side. Before the naturalists could

crack the mystery after the rangers took the calf away from her, the lioness had another oryx under her careful watch. Even more bizarre was the way Kamunyak adopted the oryx. She would move on a newborn oryx (though there are many species in the park, she preferred oryx) and, separate the youngster from its terrified mother. The lioness would then lie down next to the baby oryx and, like any protective mother, ward off strangers, antelopes and antelopeeaters alike. Soon, hundreds of tourists were visiting the park to witness and capture this phenomenon. To identify her, this celebrity lioness was named – Kamunyak, meaning the blessed one in Samburu language. The first adoptee was devoured by another lion, so happy to find a “prepared meal” without having to make a run for it. She immediately adopted another one and was now too careful with her protection. The mother antelope and her crowd would watch from a distance, and would not dare to drop by and nurse the young one. The lioness had no milk to give the newborns and soon they would weaken. The rangers would step in and take the baby away. She would immediately go not on a hunting spree, but an adoption spree. After the lioness adopted baby oryx number six, the rangers decided to let nature take its course. Kamunyak’s sixth adoptee was a wobbly little oryx, with its umbilical cord still attached. Word went around and soon tourists, naturalists, scientists, and the media were trailing the pair under full-time observation. At some point, reportedly, the mother attempted a rescue mission, but the lioness would not let this happen. Sadly, the baby oryx died, probably out of starvation. Kamunyak

did the unexpected (or is it expected). She ate the baby antelope, bringing an end a game-watching spectacle that had drawn so many tourists to the Samburu National Reserve. After this incident, she disappeared into thin air. Records indicate that her last sighting was in February 2004, and despite many searches, the lioness has not been seen since. Mkombozi the dog If you thought that a dog could not feature in anything more bizarre than “being bitten by man” to get to the limelight, meet Mkombozi the dog. In 2005, according to reports, the stray dog was spotted dragging an infant wrapped in rags, across the busy Ngong Road, through a

Follow us on Instagram: @TravelogKe Twitter: @TravelogKe barbed-wire fence into a home. TheKe Facebook: Travelog dog had reportedly found thetravelog.ke infant Website: while foraging for food at a dumpsite near the Racecourse area. With mixed feelings, the homeowner called the police. The dog was nicknamed “Mkombozi”, meaning saviour. Recorded evidence indicates that the gorgeous baby girl was named Angel, and taken to a children’s home. Six months after the incident, she was adopted by a family. Meanwhile, Mkombozi who had sprung to celebrity status became a media darling, winning the hearts of many people. Individuals, both local and foreign wanted to adopt Mkombozi, with some bidding enormous amounts of money to own the celebrity dog. The Kenya Society for the Protection and Care of Animals, however, adopted her. She died of old age in 2014 and was buried at KSPCA grounds. Her grave still attracts visitors to date. Meet Owen and Mzee Owen is a hippopotamus while Mzee is an Aldabra giant tortoise. The two live in Haller Park, Bamburi. Owen was separated from his family during the 2004 Tsunami and was brought to the Haller Park rescue centre. He quickly and surprisingly bonded with Mzee (old man) maybe because Mzee’s large domed shell and brown colour resembled that of an adult hippo. Though reluctant at ﬁrst, Mzee grew to like him and got used to Owen being around him. The two became inseparable. They became the subject of media attention and have featured in many shows, including Unlikely Animal Friends on Nat Geo Wild, The True Story of Remarkable Friendship, a book by Isabella and Craig Hatkoff and, The Language of Friendship by Jeanette Winter. Owen and Mzee commanded huge attention from visitors to the park. Their strong friendship and bond drew huge media attention that captured their extra-ordinary story. Sadly, they were later separated when Mzee was introduced to a “lovely female hippo”, whose love separated him from the brotherly love of Mzee.

Owen and Mzee

The Standard

I WENT THERE By Carole Kimutai travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

Marked by extremes like Mt Kulal and Chalbi desert, this northern destination is a traveller‘s dream

road trip to Marsabit has always been one of the items I wanted to tick off my bucket list. This is especially after the road from Isiolo was tarmacked. Before, Nairobi to Marsabit was a 14-16 hours journey atop a lorry packed with goats or cows. After the road was tarmacked, depending on which route you use, it will take you anywhere from seven and half to 10 hours on the road – a distance of 532 kilometres. Via the A1 (Nairobi – Thika – Nanyuki – Isiolo – Marsabit), it will take roughly 7.35 driving non-stop and keeping within the limit. With pit stops for drinks, food, photos, fuelling, washroom and stretching, you can add another two hours. Making it a nine and a half hour drive. If you love the countryside, you can opt to go to Marsabit via the A104 and A2. From Nairobi you drive on A104 to Gilgil – Nyahururu – Nanyuki and then the A2 to Marsabit. You will cover a distance of 627 km in 10 hours minutes without stopping. If you take pit stops, you can cover the journey in about 12 hours. I chose Marsabit over South Africa My maiden trip to Marsabit was planned as a road trip with a group of friends who also happen to be Rotarians (service volunteers). Road trips are fun when done by a group - you rarely notice the distance. However, closer to the date, I took up a work assignment that required me to be away the entire week. My friends were leaving on Friday while I was to arrive on Saturday evening. The Marsabit group had organised and booked a shuttle bus and I had paid in advance. Faced with a dilemma, I decided to check if there was a cheap flight from Nairobi to Marsabit. I was trying to be a ‘ninja’. While I found charter flight services, they cost me way above what I had budgeted to spend for a one-way flight. By the way, Marsabit County has 18 airstrips located in all its four sub-counties – Saku, North Horr, Laisamis and Moyale. Since I knew this was the only chance to go to Marsabit, I decided to wind up my trip faster than scheduled and arrived early Friday morning, had a shower, took a cat nap and by 6.30 am was on the way to Marsabit with a happy bunch of 30 people.

Why a road trip to Marsabit is a must do

What road trips offer The drive up north is a lot of fun. Despite my lack of sleep, I enjoyed the ride thoroughly. We used the A1 and diverted to Muranga and Kirinyaga to pick up a few more people who were part of the trip. I have been up to Isiolo several times. We stopped in the town for a quick bite. As a small town, we had few options of where to buy ready to eat food. I ended up buying French fries in a supermarket for Sh170. That is nothing to write home about but I would rather gobble down French fries than try food that might lead to a tummy ache. After a one hour lunch break, we were off to Marsabit. The drive from Isiolo to Marsabit is magical, the distance is 256km and the road is excellent. You will love the scenery of the vast drylands and hills. We stopped a couple of times to take photos and videos. We even posed for

selﬁes on the highway – after ensuring there were no on-coming vehicles. Marsabit is a vast county of 70, 961.2 square kilometres; located on the extreme part of northern Kenya. The county borders Ethiopia to the north, Lake Turkana to the west, Samburu County to the south and Wajir and Isiolo counties to the east. Misconceptions about Marsabit What I found captivating about Marsabit is its diversity and the beautiful rangelands. Before my visit, I thought was an arid place with a lot of insecurity challenges. In fact, one of the reasons we left Nairobi early was because we did not want to be on the Isiolo – Marsabit road at night. “People also think that Marsabit is very dry, with gun brandishing bandits. No. Mount Marsabit is too cold and misty, the people are also peaceful and coexist,” says Stephen Basele, a

resident of Marsabit and our host. I was pleasantly surprised to learn that the county lies in four main ecological zones – forest, woodland, bushland and dwarf scrubland. There are no permanent rivers in the county but two seasonal rivers of Milgis and Merille drain into the Sori Adio Swamp. We got to Marsabit at 7pm. The town is welcoming, well organised, small and easy to move around. You can get from one part of the town to the other in less than ten minutes. There are several hotels and lodges within Marsabit town. Prices range from Sh1,000 to 5,000 depending on your budget. As a group we put up in several hotels within the town. Others opted for accommodation away from the town to experience the natural parts of Marsabit. Marsabit County is one of the most diverse counties in Kenya.

The Standard

I WENT THERE The imposing sacred mountain, Ololokwe. [Courtesy]

Top recommendations

It has 14 indigenous communities; the three big ones are Borana, Gabra and the Rendille. If you like to experiment with food, you will be disappointed to know that there is no speciﬁc dish that is exclusive to Marsabit. This is because of the cosmopolitan nature of the county. However, a rice and goat meat dish would probably make it to the top of the most popular dish here. Cradle of mankind Marsabit is the ‘Cradle of Mankind’ because of the Koobi Fora, a worldfamous archaeological site where the largest ever collection of well-preserved hominid fossils dating from between 1.3 and 2.1 million years ago were discovered. The county has the only desert museum in East Africa – a must visit. If you love the outdoors, there are various attractions like the Ol Donyo Ranges, Mt Marsabit, Hurri Hills, Mt Kulal and the mountains around Sololo-Moyale escarpment. Marsabit’s other attractions are the Chalbi Desert, Lake Paradise and Central and Southern islands. You will be surprised to know that Lake Turkana is in Marsabit — the larger part of the lake. For wildlife lovers, Marsabit has the world-famous elephant, Ahmed, the largest elephant ever found in Africa and the Grevy’s zebra, a rare zebra specie. Make sure you visit the Marsabit National Park.

Carole Kimutai is the Managing Editor, Digital at the Standard Group Plc.

If you are visiting Marsabit and are on a tight budget, make sure you go and see Lake Paradise, Bongole and walk around Marsabit town. If you have a bigger budget and can stay spare a week or so, go see the Chalbi Desert, Lake Turkana and drive up to Moyale. There are beautiful sceneries on the trip from Laisamis to Lake Turkana; the largest windfarm will also be on the way. The border town of Moyale and Ethiopia is 248 kilometres from Marsabit. For the adventure of using public transport-there are two options: A bus trip to Marsabit would cost you Sh1,500. You can use a Matatu from Nairobi to Isiolo for Sh800 and Isiolo to Marsabit for another Sh800. Marsabit is a place every Kenyan should visit. I am certainly going to back for a longer visit. Meanwhile, if you want to go this year, the annual Lake Turkana cultural festival will be happening from December 5-7. Get a few friends and go paint Marsabit County red!

L. Paradise

12 HIDDEN GEMS The Bongo (Scientific name Tragelaphus eurycerus isaaci) is a large antelope prized by trophy collectors and hunters for its beautiful, stripped skin and long horns. The bongo, which is native and endemic to Kenya, has paid the ultimate price, with its population successively dwindling from a high of over 500 in the 1970s to just under 100 currently.

Fill Your Heart at Eburu By Caroline Chebet travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

erhaps it is the magical steam jets, the magnificent waterfalls and caves, the rich birdlife or even the secrets strapped within it that makes Mau Eburu Forest exceptional. A name coined by the Maasai to mean Mountain of steam, this forest gets its name from the hissing steam fumaroles where one can ‘steam-bathe’ as they watch butterflies twisty-turn in their flight. Interestingly, it is here that steam jets are tapped and cooled to water for wildlife. It is within the precincts of this vast ‘Forest of steam’ covering 8,715 hectares that the endangered mountain bongos still have a home. Eburu forest is recognised as the single most important hotspot for birdlife in the Mau, hosting 200 bird species ranging from the Grey Crowned Crane to near threatened Buzzards and to the critically endangered white-backed and Ruppell’s vultures. It is still odd that this forest which is home to Mt Eburu, a striking geologically active volcano with hot springs is barely known. Here, visitors can reawaken childhood memories of croaking frogs, the sight of drifting damselflies, admire long horn

beetles or even chuckle at the calls of the African fish eagle. One can join the indigenous forest inhabitants – the Ogiek – for honey harvesting, in the convoluted trails of Eburu forest. The natural honey from the depths of the forest awakes the taste buds. And the icing on the escapades is scaling up Mt Eburu. From its highest peak that stands at 2,820 metres above the sea level, one can enjoy breath-taking views of lakes Naivasha, Elementaita and Nakuru. It is the spectacular steep valleys, springs and waterfalls nestled deep within the forest that makes the place a rare gem. In these steep pockets, slightly over ten mountain bongos reside. The sub-species, are part of the estimated 100 remaining bongos in the world. All, are found in Kenya – in pockets of Mt Kenya, Aberdares, Eburu and parts of Mau Forest Complex. In the face of its obvious allure, Eburu, like other natural forests across the country, has suffered from illegal logging, accidental fires, charcoal burning and encroachment. Some years ago, Eburu trended for all the wrong reasons – it became synonymous with illegal charcoal burning and bush meat hunting, a trend that threatened the wildlife in the forest,

Eastern doublecollared sunbird

Long-crested eagle

Speke’s in croton

Moses Kosen, a member of the Ogiek community, sieving honey at Eburu forest. [Caroline Chebet]

13 HIDDEN GEMS Follow us on Instagram: @TravelogKe Twitter: @TravelogKe Facebook: Travelog Ke Website: travelog.ke Malachite

Golden-winged sunbird

especially the shy mountain bongos. “This forest is one of a kind. It gives a perfect feeling of nature’s wonders. The nature trails, the wildlife, the steam jets are all exceptional. As such, it is addictive to nature lovers. Despite attracting negative publicity for being a haven of illegal activities, all these have been addressed now,” Mr Benjamin Obala, a forester at Eburu says. But it is almost impossible to imagine the sad transition tale except on the edges and a few patches struggling to regenerate within the forest. The current bustling forest life, is, as a result of the multi-sectorial team efforts to save the forest in the light of threats. In 2013 March, Rhino Ark teamed up with various organisations including Mpesa Foundation, Finlays, Kenya Forest Service and Kenya Wildlife Service to construct an electric fence around it. The 43.3 kilometre electric fence has been instrumental in preventing human-wildlife conflicts. “Since the fencing, it has become easy to curb cases of illegal logging. Encroachment has also stopped and the survival of the mountain bongos got a boost. The patches that had been destroyed are also regenerating,” Rhino Ark Mau Mau Landscape Coordinator and Resource Development Manager Mr Eric Kihiu said. According to Mr Kihiu, installation of the fence has also boosted conservation efforts with communities benefitting directly from the forest through honey harvesting. The forest, he says, plays a critical role in soaking up and storing localised rainfall

Tacazze sunbird

over Mt Eburu with springs in the forest finding its way to streams that finally drains to Lake Naivasha and Elementaita basins. Moses Kosen, a member of the Ogiek community said Eburu forest has been the source of the survival of the community. For the community, feeding on the wild fruits, honey and herbs define their living, but the destruction of the forest in mid 1990s dealt a blow both to the wildlife in the forest and even production of honey. “At some point, honey production went down because there was intense illegal logging of Dombeya tree species whose flowers bees depend on for honey production. With the fence installed, things are almost back to normal,” Mr Kosen said. In our tour to the forest, Kosen, who has become a key ambassador of the conservation effort took the lead to the bee hives deep in the heart of Eburu, an activity is an almost a daily chore. In less than 30 minutes, he lit fire from rubbing dry wood together and smoking out the bees to harvest honey and carefully placing back the bee hive. “Nature feeds us. I cannot imagine life without bees and that is why conservation of Eburu forest is key,” Kosen said.

Eburu’s choice trails With the fencing, six comprehensive nature trails have been mapped to complete the conservation success story. The trails, are designed to give hiking groups a chance to visit and explore different parts of the forest. Most of the hiking trails, cover between 5-10 kilometres and take between four and six hours to complete. The trails include: 1)Eastern Summit trail, where one can spectacularly watch the scenery of the Rift and its panoramic features. 2)One can also opt for the Western Summit trail and savour the generous views of least disturbed and most beautiful parts of Eburu while listening to the grunts of giant forest hogs. 3)One can also explore the Deep Valley/Waterfall trail that harbours the most rugged and beautiful scenery. Through this trail, one is destined for the spectacular Deep Valley waterfall. 4)Ndabibi Forest Glade Circuit is a perfect trail to explore parts of the closed canopy forest and watch Blue Monkeys and African Crowned Eagles. 5)One can also opt for Ngulumoni Cave trail where Ngulumoi Rock Shelter where the Ogiek community gather honey from traditional bee hives. 6)Litatano Spring Trail is an ideal picnic stop offering tranquil settings as one watch Kahuho valley.

Black-chested snake eagle

White-eye slaty flycatcher

14 CONSERVATION WATCH Follow us on Instagram @TravelogKe Twitter: @TravelogKe Facebook: Travelog KE Website: travelog.ke

Hanging out with the Lion watcher While Samburu warriors are famed for their fierce fighting spirit, Jeneria Lekilelei’s trademark qualities are his strength and gentle persuasive manner. He has transformed from a young warrior into a confident and trusted conservation leader and is the go-to person for human-lion conflict mitigation in his home area of Westgate in northern Kenya.

By Travel Buff travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

ow is growing up as a Samburu boy like? I was born and raised in a wildlife-rich country but never went close to them. I probably did not consider wildlife relevant or simply considered them dangerous. I only saw the negative side of wildlife – many children living here still do. My ﬁrst interaction with elephants was seeing them chasing people. As I herded goats and cows, I would see elephants and gazelles in the distance and stumble on lion and hyena tracks. My impression of lions was the devourer of our livelihood especially when they attacked our cattle in the night. In my Samburu culture, I wanted to grow up, undergo circumcision, graduate into a warrior and kill a lion. Thankfully, I never killed any. I practised how to spear using baby gazelles and dik diks as targets. I even killed a warthog. Now I look back and think how differently I look at things. I have changed so much in all these years of being a con-

servationist. When did you join Ewaso Lions and what is it all about? I started working in conservation in 2008 soon after graduating from high school. Stephen, a respected elder in my community, offered me work with a lion researcher called Shivani. My 20-year-old self was frankly not too keen on the offer. I simply accepted it because I really needed a job. See, most people assumed Shivani was crazy. Even my father kept inquiring why I was working for the small, young woman who spent time staring at lions. I was also aware that asking my peers not to kill lions would land me in trouble. When I met Shivani, however, my passion for conservation was sparked. I changed, and gradually, my community changed. As I learnt about how endangered lions are, I began sharing my observations with my people and their attitudes improved. This is when I felt I was a real conservationist. Today preventing the extinction of this cat species and reducing their conﬂict with humans is my driving force. What does your job entail and what makes you happy about it? Most of my days are lived out in the ﬁeld monitoring the movement of our lion population and informing the community of their (lions’) location. I also conduct sensitisation meetings

and workshops regularly and attend conflict situations when lions kill livestock. It is very painful when one loses their livestock to lions so I always strive to be the first at the scene before tempers flare. It is not uncommon for the warriors to want to release their anger on the lion. To avoid this, I remind them that in our culture, we believe that the owner of ten cows is bound to lose one to a lion. Culturally as well, most Samburu believe lions are a good sign of hope – lions indicate a healthy ecosystem and heathy landscapes mean healthy livestock. Finally yet importantly, I impress on them on them how lucky we are to have wild lions in our homeland and the benefits tourists who come to see wild lions bring. Benefits like the Ewaso Lions scholarship program that helps send needy Samburu students to high school. It is important to note that we have fewer than 2, 000 in Kenya. Every year about 100 lions are lost and if we continue to lose that many we won’t have any lions in 20 years. How did you rise to being the director of the organisation? We started the organisation with six Samburu morans after noting that the attitude change had to begin with us. It at livestock watering points that the lion conservation gospel is mostly spread. I am proud that we presently have dedicated teams of morans working in nine conservancies across

northern Kenya. While I presently have to engage with tourism stakeholders like the KWS and fundraise for the programme, I still find time to monitor lion movement and respond to conflict. How does the nomination for the prestigious Tusk Award for Conservation make you feel? It is such a great honour to be nominated alongside other great conservationists. In an area as remote as Samburu, it is easy to assume that we have been forgotten. Sometimes, especially in times of drought, things get very difficult. While we find our strength and reward from being with the lions that we now love as we love our cows, winning this award would remind us that we are not alone. What is the highlight of you career? I remember an encounter with a lion who had picked up an injury and couldn’t hunt by himself. Driven by desperation, the lion swam across a swollen river to a village, jumped over a boma hedge, and preyed on 15 goats. After its heavy meal, the lion could not escape to save its life from the angry mob who were clearly not amused by its feat. When we reached the trapped cat, we realised that we had to use tact to avoid stressing the feline further. Thankfully, it worked with no incident.

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16 getaway Follow us on Instagram: @TravelogKe twitter: @TravelogKe Facebook: Travelog Ke website: travelog.ke

Of ranges that crowned a queen and won a country independence By Josaya Wasonga travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

he Aberdare holds a special historical place – not just for Kenyans, but for the Commonwealth. It is here that the princess of the most famous royal family in the world had a picnic and spent the night in a cave covered with a curtain of falling water. That was none other than Princess Elizabeth in 1952, two days before the young monarch’s father died, and she ascended to the British royal throne while at The Treetops, several miles from her picnic spot at Magura Waterfalls. Ironically, it is in these same ranges that the climax of a fierce freedom war from British colonial rule was staged. This account is enough to make any history buff and hopeless romantic make a beeline for the Aberdare ranges. And that’s exactly what we sought to do! Our guide from Kenya Wildlife Service (KWS) quips: “If you haven’t camped at the Aberdare, then you have not been to the Aberdares.” “How was it for Princess Elizabeth camping at Magura Waterfalls cave?” I ask the guide, who introduced himself as Ezra. “I’ll tell you when we get to Magura.” Aberdare has several campsites, but the most famous one is at Magura.

Park, the air gets clearer and cleaner as the altitude increases. As we drive up the moorlands, the vegetation also starts changing, giving rise to bamboo and rosewood trees, which are able to withstand the cold weather of the moorlands. At about 3,000 above sea level, we see the moorlands. “Fencing is complete, and this has immensely helped in conservation efforts,” Ezra informs us. About 40 minutes later, we reach the diversion to Karuru Waterfalls – the deepest waterfall in East Africa. We break for lunch, and have to decide whether to trek to Karuru, some seven kilometres, to and fro, or change our plans. The skies are downcast – the weather here is capricious. It seems like the clouds will let up and rain on our parade. Karuru’s first step is 117 metres, its second step is 26 metres, while its third one is 130 metres. We decide to give Karuru a rain check and, instead, go to Magura and Chania. The moorlands can sometimes hit you with extremes. There is a stark contrast between the dead silence in the other areas of the moorlands and the roaring decibels of the waterfalls. But the waterfalls aren’t the only attractions. Giant forest hog in Aberdare National Park

Along the way, we pass a herd of buffaloes lounging on a patch of grass. Several minutes later, a cackle of hyenas stands for a moment on the road, before they cross and let us pass. “What was that all about?” someone asks. “It’s the law of the jungle,” Ezra replies. “The animals have the right of way... and they know it.” For nature photographers, the Aberdare offers the whole shebang. From the waterfalls in the distance, the picturesque sunrises and sunsets, to the moorlands, and bird watching – the park has over 250 bird species – you will be spoilt for choice. Save some space on your memory card for Chania and Magura waterfalls, plus other surprises like wild animals which seem to spring up out of nowhere. But to see these animals, you’ll need the trained eyes of people like Ezra, who can spot and name a green snake in the grass, metres away. You might also have rare sightings of golden cats, African wild cats and serval cats. Chania is a single waterfall. But don’t let the term “single” fool you. Chania has almost 50 metres of water, and tens of metric tons, cascading down to its pool. It is so powerful that, while you are still on the pathway leading to its ramp tens of feet from its base, you will be hit by sprays of cold drops of water. There is a picnic table and shed at the top of Chania. On this scenic spot, you can grab a bite as you take in the million dollar sight of the cascading waterfalls. Don’t forget to carry some snacks. But don’t litter the area. If you must leave anything behind, let it be your footprints. If have your fishing gear and license, you can do some trout fishing at Chania or one of the many rivers that snake through the Aberdare. If you are too tired or your limbs are sore to make the to-and-fro trip, you can view Chania Falls from the pathway that leads to the downward winding path. Watch your steps as walk up and down these narrow paths. A slip will spoil your holiday.

[Courtesy]

Waterfalls, here we come The Aberdare Range is divided into the southern, northern and salient sectors, and central moorlands. The waterfalls are found in the moorlands while the rhino sanctuary is in the salient sector. From the road leading to the Aberdare National

Discovering the Aberdares

the Standard

getaway Follow us on Instagram: @TravelogKe twitter: @TravelogKe Facebook: Travelog Ke website: travelog.ke

King’s holiday in the white of Kiwayu [Courtesy]

A paradise located 45 kilometres from the Somali border sheds insecurity tag to become a sought after destination By Tamara Britten travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

Kiunga Marine National Reserve stretches along the northernmost part of Kenya’s coast. The sparkling seas of the reserve are filled with extraordinary sea creatures whose vivid colours gleam in crystal clear waters. Sea grasses flutter in the tides, coral reefs shift and grow, and extensive mangrove forests provide homes for the rare and exotic creatures

that live here. The wealth of turtle species includes Sea Turtles, Leatherback and Olive Ridley. Arthropods include crabs, starfish, lobsters and sea urchins. Dolphins and the endangered dugongs can sometimes be spotted here, while stately whale sharks traverse the waters between January and March. These whales grow up to the size of six elephants while whale sharks were in the seas before the time of the dinosaurs. Sparcely populated islands These waters are dotted with around 50 islands and atolls. Many are uninhabited and fishermen stop here to moor their boats, clean their catch and store their goods. Others are home to small communities who trade with the fishermen and lead a sheltered and secluded life. Kenya Wildlife Society patrol the waters ensuring there’s no commercial fishing, and the only fishing is done with traditional gear. White never-ending beaches Situated amongst all this glory is Kiwayu. A narrow strip of land rising from the seas, Kiwayu has white beaches, winding mangroves and lush vegetation. With a length of 12km and a width of only half a kilometre, the island has one village, one school and one well. Its beaches are dotted with rock pools of scuttling crabs and narrow creeks carve through the undergrowth.

Fact file: •Kiunga Marine National Reserve was gazetted in 1967. •The reserve is managed by the Kenya Wildlife Service and has an area of approximately 270km2. •Kiunga Marine Conservancy was established by the Northern Rangelands Trust in 2013. •The conservancy is a community-based organisation aiming to boost the local economy, empower women and youth, protect flora and fauna, and manage fishing sustainably. •The Lamu Archipelago is a chain of about 50 islands and coral reefs. Where to stay: •Mike’s Camp has seven bandas, each individually designed, with double beds, en-suite bathroom and veranda, and a restaurant with lovely views of the seas below. Mike’s Camp also offers the nearby Sankuri selfcatering house. •The Baobabs of Kitangani have three bandas adorned with Swahili furniture including double beds, and verandas with hammocks. The bandas, along with the beach bar and dining banda, are usually taken by one group at a time.

Kiwayu can only be reached by boat. The nearest airport is Lamu Airport on Manda Island, from which speedboats reach Kiwayu in about two hours; the more leisurely dhows take at least six hours to cruise the distance, and can take a day or more, depending on the wind. Endless water activities On arrival in Kiwayu, time appears to slow – or even stop. The serene atmosphere permeates all who come here and many spend their days simply gazing over the seas. However, for those who like to be more active, there are water sports galore. Scuba diving – best between October and March – opens up a beautiful underwater world; dive sites include a wreck, the creeks, and some vivid coral gardens, all teeming with multiple species of fish. Kite surfing can be done in the calmer waters of the creeks or out on the open seas. Boogie boarding and kayaking give the chance to play on the waves. Snorkelling reveals the clarity of the water and the proximity of the colourful fish. Sport fishing, fly-fishing, creek fishing and deep-sea fishing are all on offer. Day trips by speedboat or dhow can stop off at empty beaches, coral caves and uninhabited islands. And nothing beats a day spent strolling along the gleaming white beaches, pausing occasionally to cool off in the glistening sea.

The Standard

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Travel in style

As we gear up for the holiday season, we can bet a road trip with your loved ones is part of your plans. Whether you plan on driving into the countryside or down to the coast, one or two essentials necessary for a smooth time on the road could be forgotten when packing. Our check-list will help you travel in style.

travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

This is the perfect and quickest ways to freshen up on the road should you get sweaty or want to quickly wipe your hands.

Sunglasses

First aid kit

In case of an emergency while on the road, your ﬁrst aid kit tool will save you the hustle of having to drive in circles looking for a hospital especially when in the middle of nowhere.

yo yo It g ur u n oe tr ee s w av d it el su ho ba ns u g cr t sa to ee y av n in oi lot g t d i h su get on at nb tin in ur g n.

Su ns cr ee n

The sun can get hot, and no one wants to squint all through the trip. Make sure to pack a pair.

lin Co g m an fo r sh ne d th t is ou ck is ke ld th pi y yo e s llo wh u up w en w p gi t an or ve ra t t t it s y ve l o qu ca nee our ic tch ds k na a p.

Tr av el pi llo w

s op ﬂ

Body wipes/ hand sanitizer

ip Fl

y a el e lik lik to s. is eel rt op , it l f hu ﬂ ay wil ot ﬂip n e w es s of th o oe ir g sh t d pa on ur i a Al t yo , so extr a en th urd y an b arr c

By Peris Wambugu

Lip balm

The answer to your cracked lip problem while on the road.

Paper maps

It is not guaranteed that google maps will work in your favour, especially when there is poor network while travelling. It is advisable to invest in a paper map.

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My horror home-stay story How to mitigate risks posed by popular alternative rife with loopholes. By Jimmy Mwangi travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

he Internet now accounts for about 50.3 per cent of how domestic tourists source information. A bargain is a priority for most people and online platforms and other home-stay options offer a wide variety of options to ﬁt any budget. With the relative ease of booking, the popularity of these alternatives is not surprising. Many people, especially travelling groups, swear by this option for its convenience and privacy. Nevertheless, not all that glitters (read unveriﬁed reviews) is gold; the explosive unregulated growth has also created a myriad of challenges.

Encounter with a peeping Tom Julian Kamau, a Citizen Journalism and Social Media Editor with Standard Digital recalls joining a group of friends for a trip to Naivasha one weekend. The team had pulled resources and booked a self-catering cottage for Sh10, 000 a night. Split among ﬁve couples, this was a steal. A scenic drive on a sunny Friday afternoon promised a ‘turnt up’ outing. Things, however, suddenly took a turn for the grim as heavy clouds began gathering and barely had they settled into the spacious bungalow recommended by a mutual friend when lightning began ﬂashing.

Even if pregnant clouds and cracking thunder were the harbinger of disaster, the party of ten shrugged off the darkness and embarked on a fun evening. They enjoyed a sumptuous dinner prepared by the chef who came with the house. The warning shot that they were in for a tumultuous night was when one of the party noticed the chef taking pictures of the group with his phone. A brief confrontation ensued and before tempers had cooled, more drama followed. A piercing scream coming from one of the rooms cut through the house, over the noise from the rain pounding the sheet roof. Everybody rushed to find one of their own shaking like a leaf unable to utter a sound. When she finally gathered her wits, Susan* explained that she had stepped out of the bathroom only to notice an eye peeping from what everyone had assumed was a cloakroom. When she stepped towards the door, a desperate scramble ensued and when she opened it, she picked out a dark figure clambering up the ceiling and into the darkness. All that was left were muddy footprints and a shoe. Feeling unsafe and unable to leave in the downpour, the group opted for a cold night in their cars. When morning came, they reported the incident to the homeowner who was non-committal. Despite the evidence presented, the owner went as far as accusing them of delusion and exaggeration in hope of a refund. While they escaped unharmed from home-stay from hell, Simon*, on the other

hand, was not so lucky. After over-indulging during one of their team building trips, he was separated from the group that returned to the capital after the session held in Diani. Together with a friend, heavyeyed Simon opted for a cheap homestay to sleep off the night’s binge. He only came to find a half-naked man, who quickly pulled up his trousers, hovering over his bed. Global crisis One might dismiss this as a local problem but the concern extends further than our borders. On October 31, Allie Conti published a review on VICE newsletter detailing how an Airbnb host ripped her off. The article, titled I Accidentally Uncovered a Nationwide Scam on Airbnb, immediately went viral, triggering a wave of rage tales from the public who have fallen victim to the multiple dangerous loopholes in the Airbnb platform. As we head into the Christmas holiday season you just might be forced into an alternative space. Despite particular risks and some horror stories with this option, it’s only fair to note that these platforms have many advantages. Not only are they easy-to-use for everyone involved, but they are also financially beneficial for both hosts and guests. Property owners can make money from spare space, while the travellers can save money on accommodation. Julian Kamau. [courtesy]

Mitigate the risks with this checklist •Get to know your host first. This will help you get a feel of your host’s personality and see if there are any red flags screaming to run away and never look back. •Make sure that your friends or family know where you’re staying. •Put together an emergency numbers list. •Investigate the place upon arrival. Your goal is to check the property for anything that can potentially threaten your safety or privacy. See if there are any hidden cameras (bear in mind that they can be disguised as smoke detectors, light bulbs, alarm clocks, or even USB chargers). Make sure all the furniture and home appliances are safe-to-use. If there’s something wrong, talk to your host immediately. •As you might have guessed by now, official reviews do not tell the whole story. Make sure your prospective host is not highlighted on Airbnb Hell or general review platforms like SiteJabber or TripAdvisor. •Request more pictures of the property. The benefit of doing this is twofold; you can make sure the property exists and it’s a good way to check if the property still looks the same. •Never agree to make payments outside the platform. This is a shortcut to being scammed. Have a money trail for future reference. •If possible, stay in accommodation your friends of family have already stayed in. •Give preference to renting entire apartments and homes. The fewer the strangers sleeping under the same roof, the safer you’ll be. •Pay attention to locks.

Additional reporting from Internet sources.

The Standard

THE MIXOLOGIST

Taste from the real ‘MVPs’ By Wairimu Nyingi travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

ome people have incredibly cool occupations: Imagine being an actor adored the world over for your roles in blockbusters or being a chocolate taster or a mattress tester. If that does not sound glamorous then consider the title of brand ambassador; one selected to be the face of a product. This career option was clear at two very different yet similar intimate exclusive pairings in the heart of the capital. Travelog had the honour of ‘wining’ and dining with two gentlemen with troves of experience in premium spirits. Conversations over cognac First up was the Hennessy Business Development Manager for Af-

rica & Middle East and Global Ambassador, Benjamin Smith. Under his tutelage, cognac lovers were treated to a fine dining experience at Dusit’s Soy Restaurant while being immersed in the rich heritage, finesse and sophistication of Maison Hennessy. Using a three-course fine dining meal, Smith led the attentive audience in savouring the different pearls on the Hennessy crown, whose rich history and the ‘savoir-faire’ culture dates back to 1765. The starter, a crispy pork belly (apple/ Szechuan pepper) was paired with the Very Special (VS). The main course, crispy beef (hot and sour cucumber salad/sesame) jasmine rice (roast coconut/ coriander) with went with the Very Superior Old Pale (VSOP). The dessert, an almond crème brûlée (roasted pear/ honeycomb) and chocolate fondant (banana ice cream/ miso car-

Crispy pork belly

Beef and jasmine rice

Almond crème brûlée

amel sauce) settled with the ultimate Extra Old (XO). From its seat in the French region of Cognac and

throughout its 250-year history, Hennessy has perpetuated a heritage based on adventure, discovery. Benjamin has over 15 years’ experience in premium spirits, with the past ten years within Moët Hennessy (LVMH). His career began in 2001, at Beringer Blass then Bacchant Wine Merchants, where he worked with some of the most respected wine brands

in Australia. In 2006, he joined Moët Hennessy Australia and worked across the portfolio (inc Hennessy, Belvedere, Dom Perignon, Veuve Clicquot & Domaine Chandon) in several senior roles including National Trade Marketing Manager & National Sales Manager. Last year, he commenced his new role as Hennessy Business Development Manager for Africa & Middle East.

SECOND SHOT Conversations whisky

over

iageo Global Scotch Brand Ambassador, Tom Jones used a whisky gourmet dinner hosted by Movenpick Hotel & Residences, to introduce two new two variants of The Singleton Single Malt whisky, in addition to the 12-year-old. The starter, a salmon panseared sashimi, with black sesame, green apple sticks, orange-mint honey emulsion, roasted hazelnut dust and microgreens was paired with The Singleton 12-yearold. The 12-year variant is punctuated with the aroma of polished wood and toasted hazelnuts with a swirl of stewed and dried fruit. It is characterised by a sweet, nutty and smooth fruity taste with a hint of espresso and brown sugar.

The main course, a beef tenderloin with oyster mushroom sauté, arrowroots, mascarpone puree, jelly of pear, grilled asparagus, dark chocolate and a one-of-a-kind Barolo reduction wine sauce paired elegantly with The Singleton 15-year-old. Pairing The 15-year-old variant was aromatically drawn to a toffee apple fragrant punctuated with honeycomb and hints of spice with underlying fruity cereal notes. The drink draws in the taste buds with sweet malty and oat tones with a feel of fresh fruit and a drying ﬂoral spiciness. The dessert featured a chocolate Danduja, berry sorbet, caramelised walnuts, vanilla and sweet caramel parfait, butterscotch sauce and cocoa dust, and was a great accompani-

ment to a 18-year-old variant. This choice taps out an aroma of soft roasted nuts, fragrant wood and stewed fruit punctuated by a smooth vanilla and toffee fragrant. It draws in the palate with a dark toffee, mint and apple juice taste punctuated by almond and a hint of cocoa biscuits. Tom Jones is known for his unwavering passion and knowledge for ﬁne spirits. With over 20 years of experience in the Hospitality Industry, followed by 17 years in the world of spirits, he is a devoted ambassador and longtime Keeper of the Quaich, for the exceptional craftsmanship of Scotch whisky all over the world. Keepers of the Quaich is an exclusive society that recognises those who have shown outstanding commitment to the Scotch Whisky industry.

The Standard

WHAT’S COOKING?

[Wliberforce Okwiri]

A traditional Christmas dinner By Jayne-Rose Gacheri travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

ne of the most widespread practices across the world during this season is the traditional Christmas dinner. With the help of Chef John Getanda of Serena Hotels and Pastry Chef Stephen Menja, we dissect this menu, consisting of roast turkey, eggnog and pudding, with roots in mediaeval England. WHOLE ROAST TURKEY – SERVES 10PAX The Spanish introduced turkeys to Europe, where they spread rapidly, making it as far as Germany before the 16th Century was over; a 1581 cookbook published in Frankfurt lists over 20 recipes for “Indian chicken”. Because they were so grand and festive, turkeys quickly found a place at banquets and holiday meals, including Christmas. Ingredients: 2 tbsp dried basil 2 tbsp ground rosemary 2 tbsp dried sage 2 tbsp dried thyme leaves 2 stalks celery chopped 1 orange cut into wedges 1 carrot chopped 1 onion chopped 1 whole clove garlic chopped Salt and pepper to taste 300ml corn oil 500ml chicken stock Method: 1. Preheat oven to 180 degrees Celsius. Line the baking tray with long sheets of aluminium foil-long enough to wrap over the turkey. 2. Stir the parsley, rosemary, sage, thyme, lemon, pepper, and salt together in a small bowl. Rub the herb mixture into the turkey, and then stuff with celery, orange, onion and, carrot. Bind if desired and place the turkey in the roasting pan. Pour the chicken broth on the turkey; bring the aluminium foil over the top of the turkey and seal. Try to prevent the foil from touching the skin of the turkey, breasts or legs. 3. Bake the turkey in the pre-heated oven for 2-21/2 to 3 hours until it is no longer pink at the bone and the juices run clear. Uncover the turkey and continue baking until the skin turns golden brown; 30 minutes to one hour longer. 4. When cooked, remove the turkey from the oven, cover with a doubled sheet of aluminium foil and allow to rest in a warm area, ten to 15 minutes before slicing.

CHRISTMAS EGGNOG Eggnog descended from a hot drink called posset, which was made with eggs, milk, and wine or ale. By the 13th Century, monks were known to drink a posset with eggs and ﬁgs. Milk, eggs, and sherry were foods of the wealthy, so eggnog was often used in toasts to prosperity and good health. Ingredients: Three eggs 1600ml milk 500ml cream 375ml sugar caster 400ml bourbon whisky 400ml brandy Two tbsp of nutmeg powder Method: 1. Whisk the eggs and sugar until ribbon stage. 2. Add the whiskey and brandy and refrigerate for ﬁve hours. 3. Add milk and nutmeg powder then fold in the lightly beaten cream. 4. Serve chilled.

CHRISTMAS PUDDING While Christmas pudding is popularly referred to as plum pudding, it actually contains no plums. The very first version of Christmas pudding occurred in the 14th Century with, oddly enough, meat! Ingredients: 350g mixed dried fruits (raisins, currants, and sultanas) 100g pitted ready-to-eat prunes, chopped or left whole 100g dark sugar Four tbsp dark rum 100ml stout 100g of chopped walnuts, blanched almonds, fresh white breadcrumbs and frozen butter, grated, plus a little extra for greasing ½ spoon freshly grated nutmeg 50g plain flour One tbsp ground cinnamon Two tbsp mixed spices 100g chopped chopped glace cherries or left whole Three large eggs beaten Method: 1. Combine mixed fruits, prunes, sugar, rum, stout in a mixing bowl, stir well to mix, cover and leave for 24 hours to soak 2. Mix the walnuts, almond, breadcrumbs, flour, butter, spices, cherries and eggs along with the soaked fruit mixture in a large mixing bowl. Mix until completely combined. Cover with cling paper and leave to stand in a cool place for 24 hours.

3. Grease a 1.2 litre pudding basin with butter. Cut a circle of the baking paper and place into the bottom of the pudding basin and then grease it with a little more butter. 4. Pack the pudding mixture into a pudding basin, pressing as you add it. Fold a pleat into the middle of a large piece of baking paper and place over the pudding. Cover with a large piece of pleated foil, ensuring the pleats are on top of one another. Secure tightly with kitchen string-tied under the lip of the pudding basin. 5. Place an upturned saucer into a large saucepan, onequarter full of water. Fold a long piece of foil into quarters lengthways to create a long strip and place the pudding basin in the middle of the strip. Bring the sides of the strip up the sides of the pudding basin and lower into the saucepan. Leave the end of the foil strip hanging over the side to make it easy to remove the pudding later. 6. Bring the water to the boil and then reduce the heat to a gentle simmer for 5-6 hours, toping up the water level as necessary. Do not allow the pan to dry. 7. Once cooked, remove from the pan and set aside to cool. The pudding can be stored up to two years if in a cool, dry place. To serve, steam the pudding for two hours or until hot. Alternatively, remove the foil and reheat in the micro oven.

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Savvy traveller

Travel tips from the first family of domestic tourism

By Travelog Writer travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

The Kabus, as they are fondly known, share a few travel hacks that work for them

What hacks do you have for anyone travelling with family? Plan to travel with your nanny if you can afford it. The extra hand will allow you some wiggle space to enjoy yourselves. If you cannot afford to bring your nanny with you, opt for a hotel that has a solid animation programme that will keep your progeny engaged and networking with their age mates for the duration of your stay. Importantly, choose childfriendly spots that will assure you peace of mind. What are your thoughts about travelling with spice? Ha ha ha. From our experience, couples who travel often together tend to have firmer relationships. Travel not only reduces stress and rejuvenates, but the alone time allows couples to discuss matters their regular schedules cannot afford them. You are in essence forced to bond. What are some of your favourite travel destinations? Sarah: I am simply blown away by Laikipia for its scenery and exclusive lodges. What visitors experience here is hard to replicate elsewhere. That also informs my love for London where their offering is as original as they come. Many have imitated some experiences offered there, but nothing beats the classic original. Simon: Diani works for me for its unparalleled beaches and all-year-round warm weather. In Africa, Zanzibar is a fine destination.

What don’t people know about you? Sarah: I am very prayerful Simon: I enjoy a good action flick preferably one by Nicholas cage or jet Li Most embarrassing situation on the road: That would have to be during one of our visits to Abu Dhabi where Simon lost his travel wallet that contained all our money and cards. We were travelling incognito as we always do when researching for our client packages. Well, we were due to check out the following morning and had just maxed out our credit extension. As expected, the hotel management did not find our tale very amusing let alone convincing. It took some of our ground handlers to save the day. Needless to say, once it was all sorted out, they were very sorry for our embarrassment. We never did find the lost wallet. What are some of your travel cheats: Sarah: Always have an itinerary of the destination you are visiting and follow it religiously. That enables you to get the best out of your visit. Opt for accommodation closest to the action to save on commute time. If your itinerary is packed, do for budget accommodation considering you will be exploring for most of the day. As long as the accomodation is clean, comfortable and safe, you are good to go. If you are going for relaxation, on the other hand, luxury is a priority. Simon: Don’t travel blindly; research

first. This allows you to have a fulfilling experience and you also learn smart ways of saving money. When travelling abroad, acquire a local SIM card for effective communication. Go for an early check in and late check out as possible. Please, do not walk around with all you money, identification and travel papers. Toughest destination you have encountered: While China is beautiful, we had a hard time adapting because of several reasons. First, we had to endure very long flights before we arrived to our destinations. Upon arrival, we suffered language barrier. We were unfortunate not to encounter people who spoke English and were resorted to using translation applications. To make matter s worse, most communication means we take for granted here are banned or inaccessible there. Even as we shrugged this hurdles off, we had a hard time coping with the local food that can be a mouthful for anyone with traditional tasted. In spite of our rough first encounter, China is a favourite destination for most Kenyans and we still look forward to go back to experience the Great Wall. We have invested in local guides with English knowledge as well as Kenyan-born guides living there to ensure our guests do not suffer our fate. What next for the Kabu’s? We consider ourselves pioneer drivers of the domestic travel narrative. We are here to stay and are currently diversifying our portfolio and working on innovative products.

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wellneSS watch

working to restore the forest to its roots. Last year, 210 title deeds of the forest were revoked. But the CFA still has three pending court cases.

Haven in the concrete jungle By Josaya Wasonga travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

A nature walk will do you a health lot of good. The air is fresh and the exercise will shed a few pounds

act: At 1, 041 hectares, it is one of the largest urban gazetted forests in the world and the largest gazette forest in Kenya. Sad fact: majority of Nairobi residents have never been to Karura Forest, and even sadder fact is most of them think Karura has nothing more to offer than tree-hugging. Until a month ago, I was among those Nairobians who had only heard about this forest, but had never set foot nor eye on this one-of-a-

kind natural resource. What’s more, I had heard about it in various channels and mostly not from locals. Right before we set off for our nature walk, one journalist in our group asks our guide in jest: “How long has this forest been here?” “How old is the world?” retorted the guide, making my poor pal look like he had been living under a rock. Karura - which has two blocks – has a varied array of activities one can indulge in, including bike riding, tennis, football, picnics, nature walks, hikes, and bird watching. Karura also has an auditorium which is used to

train people on conservation. If you’re coming to Karura, you can strike sunscreen off your must-carry list.

But make sure that you wear sports shoes or rubber shoes, or any footwear with good rubber soles because you will do a lot of walking. The law permits the communities living around forests to work together and manage these natural resources. Karura has a Community Forest Association (CFA), which helps to manage this vital natural resource. The CFA has been doing a lot of history tours, especially the Mau Mau caves, and has carried out an archaeological gig with the National Museums of Kenya. Community involvement is key in conservation efforts “Before 1998, it was impossible to venture into Karura Forest. Part of the forest was leased to Shell and BP clubs by the Kenya Forest Service, but they could not use it because of rampant insecurity.” The CFA requested Shell and BP whether they could allow them to use it, as well as make the park safe and secure. The forest was a den of robbers, and a dumping site for dead bodies and hijacked cars. By then, it was not fenced. There was also illegal logging and land grabbing. In 2009, the CFA started negotiations. When the association came in, they evicted squatters and land grabbers, with assistance from the communities around the forest and the late Nobel peace prize laureate, the late Prof. Wangari Maathai. Karura was an indigenous forest, but the colonial government cleared the indigenous trees and replaced them with exotics like eucalyptuses and pines. The CFA is now

Karura’s friendly wildlife You can make a visit to Karura an all-family affair. Karura has another feather on its hat. They have a trail for persons who are abled-differently. Which means that your family and friends who are living with a physical disability will not be left out. On our nature walk, which was on a weekday, we met a family that was riding their bikes. Which goes to show that these short one-day tours can be done any day of the week. On weekdays, the trails are virtually deserted. But the security team does not sleep on the job. This forest is as safe as Fort Knox. The CFA has rangers and scouts, who are strategically positioned all around the park, to make sure that visitors enjoy their stay. Besides, the forest has an allround electric fence. They also have scouts to ensure the safety of visitors. They patrol the fence line and do regular patrols within the forest. “We have friendly wildlife, including pythons,” our guide says as we take a turn in the forest. “Friendly wildlife? Including pythons?” I blurt. “If you find it basking, walk away,” our guide carries on nonchalantly. “The forest also has small types of snakes, porcupines, bush pigs, night jars and white-tailed mongooses and colobus monkeys.” The colobus monkeys were translocated from Kipipiri Forest to boost the numbers in Karura, which were virtually non-existent. When Karura Forest opened its gates to the public in March 2009, after the CFA takeover, it hosted 350 visitors in its first month. All were Caucasians. Nowadays, the forest hosts between 30,000 to 40,000 visitors a month, majority of whom are locals. Sure fact: if we “devolved” domestic tourism, and just 10 per cent of city dwellers visited Karura each month, it would be the most-visited forest in East and Central Africa.

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Royalty stole my heart Borobudur

Special Region of Yogyakarta is a provincial-level autonomous region of Indonesia in the southern Java. It is special for more resons than one.

By Thorn Mulli travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

n 2018, Yogyakarta popularly known as Jogja generated $9.3 billion revenue from tourism. Interestingly, the biggest chunk of this revenue was from local tourists something that Kenya can learn. Travelog had the opportunity to visit this special province of Indonesia (special because it is ruled by a recognised monarchy thanks to its signiﬁcant contribution to the survival of the Indonesian Republic). It actually was the capital of Indonesia from 1946 to 1948) in the world’s largest island country-with more than 17,000 islands. The province, one of 34 provinces, has a three-pronged approach to tourism. Their touristic focus is nature, fabricated super attractions and an abundance of crosscutting culture. While the distance and lack of direct ﬂights from Kenya is a major constraint, this is a destination worth exploring. Jogja stole my heart because: Borobudur The best-known tourist attraction around Yogyakarta is Borobudur, one of the best temple sites in Southeast Asia alongside Angkor Wat in Cambodia and Bagan in Myanmar. Borobudur is a single temple, and it’s huge. In fact, it is considered to

Incredible cuisine

Batik making

25 be the largest Buddhist monument on Earth, a giant pyramid with nine levels, 2,672 carved panels and 504 Buddha statues. To give you an idea, on the top level there are 72 bell-shaped stupas, each of them containing a statue of the Buddha.

ABROAD

Prambanan Another stunning temple, and one that is believed by many to be even more beautiful than Borobudur, is the wonderful Prambanan. This is also a UNESCO-world heritage site, a complex of Hindu temples dedicated to the god Shiva. Whereas Borobudur is famous for its sheer size, the Prambanan temples are best known for their height and intricate decoration – the tallest building is 47 meter high! The three biggest temples are dedicated to the main Hindu gods, Shiva, Vishnu and Brahma,. They are decorated with scenes from the Ramayana. Ramayana Ballet After visiting Prambanan, stick around for the nightly Ramayana Ballet, where you will have the chance to see dancers reenact the scenes of the Ramayana that you have admired in the temples. This writer was privileged to savour a front-row seat to the popular Ramayana Ballet that evoked memories of a popular television show by the same name from the old days when KTN and KBC were the only television stations. It’s an unforgettable experience, reminiscent of Petra by Night – on one side, you’ll have the temples all lit up, and right in front you’ll see beautiful skilled dancers in colourful costumes bringing these ancient tales to life. This ballet performance of Ramayana is truly one of the unforgetables in Yogyakarta, Indonesia!

Prambanan temple

Lessons from Jogja:  Voluntary community service

guided by law achieves wonders. Take for instance, the move to close the popular Maliaboro Shopping Street once a month for cleanup. Every Sunday is also car free day to encourage a healthy lifestyle. One can only imagine what Nairobi could become if we all pitched in. What would happen if we used the Nairobi River as our front yard and not a back yard? The only way to clean up rivers

Make your own batik at the Batik Museum Batik is the most authentic and favourite textile in Java and Indonesia probably. If you want to know more about the ancient art of batik visit the Batik Museum developed on May 12, 1977 on the effort of Hadi Nugroho household. Located at the heart of Jogja, a tour here begins with learning the ancient batik tools, a look at the stunning fabric on display before trying out your very own batik souvenir. The best souvenirs are handmade, but here a steady hand is needed. We were given a piece of cloth with a drawing traced on it and a tool filled with melted wax that we were supposed to use to trace the outline of the drawing. While I could not match the skilled women at the museum, I truly appreciated the process and the final cost of a finished product. It actually takes at least three paint and drying sessions, boiling to remove wax and cautious drying before you can enjoy your fabric. Head to Malioboro Another must do in Yogyakarta is a visit to theMalioboro, the famous shopping street – even though the entire surrounding area is also known as Malioboro. Malioboro is a bargain shopping paradise and ideal for those who want to stock up on souvenirs. You’ll find bags, batik fabrics, Javanese sculptures, artworks of all kinds, printed t-shirts and more, on sale both on street stalls and small shops. Malioboro is often full of street artists – especially in the evening! Should you be here in the evenings grab some street food. As soon as night falls, street food carts (known in Indonesian as ‘lesehan’) start lining the street.

is to treat them as our own property and not the Government’s responsibility.  Keep prices competitive. The price for accommodation in one of Kenya’s oldest hotel in the capital is Sh21, 000. Its equivalent, the Phoenix Hotel Yogyakarta – a five-star luxury is at an average of Sh8,000. And unlike here where we charge extra for a double, the rate Is standard. Street food in Jogja costs an average of 20,000 Indonesian Rupiah. This might sound exorbitant, but divide that by 130, the average exchange rate to the shilling, and it is a steal. The next time you plan your holiday think twice.  To effectively compete with other destinations, stick to and perfect your strengths. While Bali is the most famous tourist destination in Indonesia, Jogja realised that their strength lies in culture. They, for instance, insist that citizens wear batik (a handmade cloth akin to the kitenge) at least once a

month. Horse carriages and rickshaw carriage are still an accepted form of transport. They also are an educational hub and the province has at least 300,000 students with only ten per cent drawn from the predominantly Javanese local population.  Tolerance is a virtue that pays. Just like Kenya, Jogja is a melting pot of culture. The only difference is that they actually celebrate their differences. It is not odd to shake hands with a Muslim guide as you enjoy the architecture of a Buddhist temple before watching a Hinduinspired ballet.  Continuously improve the infrastructure to the destination. Jogjakarta’s new airport scheduled for completion in 2010 will boast the longest runaway in Indonesia and a capacity to serve at least 20 million passengers annually. The current one caters for the eight million passengers.  Thomas Edison when talking about innovation noted, “There’s a way to do it better-if only you find it. Most Kenyans consider the Jack Fruit (fenesi) that grows in arid areas a ‘poor man’s fruit. It was a pleasant surprise to learn that the Javenese have a traditional recipe using palm sugar and coconut milk that turns this fruit into a delicacy called Guden.

Prambanan Temple Peformance during Ramayana Ballet

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Kiliﬁ: Top beach of the coast Kaskazi and Kusi winds make Kenya an ideal destination for a Kite ‘Surfari’.

By Audrey Cheptoo travelog@standardmedia.coke

s the traditional travel season starts, the beaches of Kilifi where dazzling sand meets azure blue waters is an opt hard to ignore. Any beach hotel worth its salt will typically offer at least one or more water-based activities, either sailing, water skiing, jet ski, diving, windsurfing, deep sea fishing or a suitable combination. Unlike their beach hotel counterparts, however, kite surfing centres are mostly uncrowded, set on the pristine beaches with minimal decor and chill vibes. As unassuming as they may be, they offer world-class kite surfing programmes on award winning beaches. When it typically comes to planning a kite surfing holiday, location is high up on the priority list as are the wind conditions. The reliable trade winds on the East African coast — the Kaskazi (northeast wind, blowing between December and March), and the Kusi (south wind, October to November) are perfectly synchronised with holidays, making Kenya an ideal destination for a Kite ‘Surfari’. Kiting enthusiasts will make reference to Che Shale Kite Centre on Mambrui beach, a cool 20km north of Malindi Town and Kenyaways Kite School in Galu, Diani; not forgetting the private instructors who dot the coastline. New kid in town The new player in the kite game — Salty’s Kite Village — is intent on making Kilifi the next kite surfing destination. Getting to Salty’s from Mombasa or Malindi takes just over an hour by road. Travellers from Nairobi have the options of rail, road and sky. The swift can fly conveniently into Vipingo airstrip, which is only 20 minutes drive from Kilifi Town. One afternoon, two longtime friends

Ivan and Simon were inspired to turn their ultimate dream into reality. They bumped onto this property whose owner was angling to demolish the house and erect a modern structure. It was that moment that the pair wisely decided to take over the lease, in an conscious effort to preserve not only the historic buildings, but also the natural environment. Nine months later and their brainchild is born. The chosen name is a tribute to the adage Salty Old Seadog — a sailor with many years experience at sea which mirrors Ivan and Simon’s love of the ocean and the beach. The dynamic duo spend a good amount of time on the beach and in the water “getting salty”, Simon says. Spanish-Kenyan, Ivan grew up in Mombasa and is acquainted with the ocean where he spends time fishing, kite surfing, sailing … you name it. Even when on his travels, he always looks for destinations with salty bodies of water. So it is fitting that his passion project is affectionately named after his own life experience If you are expecting to find a stereotypical Spartan shack constructed from recycled wood, maritime paraphernalia and a tired barkeep handing over sweaty beers to equally drenched long-haired surfers, then you’re in for a surprise. Although Salty’s is a little rough around the edges, it has been executed with enough restraint not to be classified as shabby. While you will find recycled wood furniture, the beach bar design is refined minimally that screams quality. The bar counter is made of large single slabs of

Main: A kite-surfer takes on the waves and the 40-foot effigy burning ceremony. Below: Scenes of Salty’s Kite Village. [Courtesy]

heavy mango wood, and beach seats made from pallets are covered in colourful leso cushions. At Salty’s you won’t hear rock music blaring from a scratchy speaker in the corner. Himself a DJ, Ivan curates the sonic experience at Salty’s to a tee. Each night, one of

the staff or a guest DJ plays a careful selection of music to suit the day’s vibe. There is no music in the reception or lobby however. Instead, the ambience draws from the natural sounds from birds and monkeys in nearby trees. From the main building, you can hear the

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waves wash up onto shore and recede gently-the epitome of calm. It took five arduous months of TLC to renovate the dilapidated house on the property and construct the beach bar and kite centre. The result — a quirky yet minimal little lodge that is functional and full of character. The cherry on top is the location, Salty’s is tucked away in a little covelike nook on the breathtaking Bofa Beach. Patagonian builder Simon speaks passionately about the various techniques he employed to enhance the character of the historic house. One of the rooms has an old sunken bathtub that needed replacing. Simon conceived the brilliant idea of filling the tub with fertile soil, effectively turning it into a planter. At a glance, it seems an odd feature to typically have in a bathroom, but it really works to reflect the nature

If you are expecting to find a stereotypical Spartan shack constructed from recycled wood, maritime paraphernalia and a tired barkeep handing over sweaty beers to equally drenched longhaired surfers, then you’re in for a surprise.

outside. The original taps were conveniently left in to keep the plants hydrated. The rooms are simple, comfortable; each with a unique design, even the doors to each room are different, but draw inspiration from different coastal designs. The lounge in the main building is donned with white walls, wood-panelled ceilings, natural wicker furniture and offwhite cushions, contrasting with the colourful splashes of leso covered plump pillows. Much of the original architecture has been preserved, including black and white chequered tile ﬂoors typical of the Art Deco movement of the 1970s, which give a slight surreal feel as they lead you down the corridor. The open arch windows keep the place well-lit and aerated, revealing the exquisite garden and ocean backdrop. There is little that can trump breakfast with an ocean view and the house opens up into a beautiful vista revealing a luscious garden that rolls onto the beach. On the verandah is a huge neem tree, creating shade for a large cement dining table with wrought iron chairs. Speaking of dining tables, the restaurant serves enjoyable food whose ingredients are sourced locally. After a hefty meal, walking around the property is pleasant activity to burn some calories. The garden is lined with ancient trees - great cycads, neem trees and desert roses. Nooks and crannies in the garden are perfect for peaceful solitude, meditation and are a lovers’ refuge.

Why you should consider a Kilifi holiday Kilifi has lived in the shadow of her famous sisters Mombasa, Kwale and Lamu for a long time but there just as many reasons why you should consider a Kilifi holiday. For starters, the county hosted the inaugural Ladies European Tour event on East African soil. The Magical Kenya Ladies Open took place from December 5-8, on Vipingo Ridge’s Baobab Course -the only (UK) PGA accredited golf course on the continent.Enjoy a round of golf on this holiday par 72, 18-hole championship course set high on the ridge with dramatic coastal views. Kilifi County holds an extraordinary position in Kenya’s cultural heritage. As a way of making culture one of the pillars of economic and social development and integration, the County Government through the Departments of Culture and that of Tourism will celebrate the Kilifi Cultural and Tourism Festival in Malindi on December 13-14. The theme of this year’s Kilifi Cultural and Tourism festival is “Our Cultural diversity, our pride and strength”. Kilifi is proud to showcase her rich heritage in both tangible and intangible form. As they parade the beauty of their culture, the Kilifi County Government will also be demonstrating that the

people can also earn a decent income by promoting our aesthetic heritage. If you are a history buff, then the cultural sites of Kilifi should impress. Make time to visit the world-famed ancient ruins of Gedi and Jimba as well as the many sacred forests and Kaya shrines. The rich culture of the Mijikenda and the Swahili as well as the sites and monuments that symbolise the contact between our great cultures and the outside world, such as the Vasco da Gama pillar. In addition, Kilifi County also boasts a rich intangible cultural heritage, encompassing a rich oral tradition and language, performances, social practices, rituals, songs, foods, artisanship, cuisine, knowledge, and practices concerning nature and the universe. Of note is that one of the country’s most celebrated freedom fighters, the iconic Mekatilili wa Menza, came from Kilifi County. The department is also keen on establishing new strategies and approaches through support for contemporary culture, by exploring the connections that modern Kilifi has with the unique character of our history and natural environment. The County will showcase the diversity in the language, music, mashahiri, visual and performing arts, as elements that play a fundamental role for our unity, and therefrom providing a sense of identity. After the Christmas break Kilifi town turns into a sleepless jungle with the Kilifi New Year Festival. For three days, the vast 25-acreage of Beneath the Baobabs (BTB) hosts thousands of people from across the globe in joyous celebration of the New Year, in a flamboyant boutique festival. This the sixth year of the festival promises multi-sensory stimulation through carefully curated music, immersive art installations, wellness programmes, talks and panel discussions delving into sociocultural issues of the modern day. This year will showcase a strong contingent of East African acts, aiming at promoting local talent. East African favourites Blinky Bill (KE), DJ Coco Em (KE), DJ Kampire (UG), Ochungulo Family (KE) and more will share the stage with renowned international acts - Osunlade (USA), Afshin (FR) and Bambupelo (SA), among others. According to the BTB crew, the festival is a “mchuzi mix of singers, rappers, and DJs from a variety of genres converging in Kilifi to showcase the boundless sounds of East Africa.” The festival culminates in a burnceremony that celebrates the art of letting go of the past to make way for the future. Each year, artists and builders construct a 40-foot effigy symbolic of the year past - and then set it alight in a blazing show. Beneath the Baobabs stands on their ethos of diversity, authenticity and ecoconscious community.

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Flamingos at Lake Bogoria National Reserve in Baringo county

Reveal the real North Rift with a Road trip By Caroline Chebet travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

Looking for affordable travel ideas this December? Why not take a road trip to a region on the run

he trip will take you up one of world’s largest calderas; have you stand on the Northern and Southern Hemispheres a; cruising through the rich ridges and valleys; gaping at pink lakes; sweeping views from hills where daredevils glide; and jogging in the city of marathon champions. DAY ONE: Your journey would essentially begin in Nairobi, a two hours’ drive through breath-taking views of the Rift, through the vast wildlife sanctuaries after Naivasha town and in to Nakuru town. Here, one can grab a bite and check into accomodation in any of the many hotels here.

The charges range around Sh10,000. While in Nakuru, a hike up at Menengai crater, one of the world’s largest calderas is a mustdo. Here, one can see unmatched geographical features deﬁned in the mystical Menengai that have inspired many tales. Located on the northern side of Nakuru town, Menengai crater is the second largest volcano calderas in Africa after Tanzania’s Ngorongoro. It is at the rim of the crater overlooking Nakuru town that one can savour the striking views of the town through to salient, radiating views of Lake Nakuru on a hot afternoon. Apart from the humongous towering cliffs that runs deep in to the gaping valley stretching far across, one can also explore the famous Mau Mau caves in the Southern side. Still a stroll on the Southern side, for those with the stamina, offer enchanting views that spread far in to Lake Bogoria. During the day, the views are clearer and in the evenings, one can still watch sapphire skies as the sun edge for the cliffs. DAY TWO: Day two of the road trip will take you to Baringo, the county

of sprawling ridges, shallow and deep valleys, the sanctuary of bird life and an abode of geological features. Here too, is the historic home of naturally-salted chevon created as result of the goats browsing off the medicinal herbs and shrubs that dot the expanse. Thirty eight kilometers north of Nakuru along the NakuruBaringo road is a clear sign marked by a spherical metal monument. This is the gateway to the North Rift. It is here that the imaginary Equator line, which divides the planet into a Northern and Southern Hemisphere passes through. From a tourist information centre located there, you can learn more about the imaginary line. The point is marked 0 degrees. Mogotio, is one of the few places including Timboroa, Nanyuki and Maseno where Equator passes in Kenya. In Africa, it also passes through Gabon, Congo, Democratic Republic of Congo, Sao Tomé and Principe, Uganda and Somalia. Do not leave the Equator location without having a taste of the area’s nyama choma at the hotels there ahead of the adven-

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[Photos: Kipsang Joseph, Standard]

on these dream islands.

Merica Hotel in Nakuru town.

turous journey through to Mogotio. The town once served as an important connection point serving the Somali and Indian traders traversing the North and the Rift. Past Mogotio is Emining town, the first missionary centre in the North Rift. The town is believed to have hosted the first missionaries before they finally moved to Kabarnet, the current county headquarters. A stop over at Radad centre for a taste of nature’s best honey is also a highlight. The centre, according to Nothrift Tourism kuru. nengai crater in Na Coordinator Mr William Kimo- Me sop hosts one of the oldest bee hive workshops. Not far from this sweet town is the bubbly centre called Marigat and a few kilometres on, one can stop over at Koriema for more delicious Baringo goat meat. The roast chevon, has, for good reasons, made it to news and it would be an injustice for meat lovers to leave Baringo without sampling it. From Marigat, one can also proceed to Lake Bogoria to sample the epitome of birdlife. This is currently the unrivalled home of close to, two million lesser and greater flamingos. own u (right) being sh Here, one can also interact rden James Kimar wa rk pa r nio Se nal Reserve with the indigenous Endorois at Lake Bogoria. Lake Bogoria Natio mera by a tourist ca a te era op to w ho community who reside next to the Lake. With deep-rooted cultures, one can join them for a choose to travel to Lake Baringo hot springs beneath. jig and prayers on the shores of and sample the snake park on One can lull the evening away the lake they adore. the shore of the lake, visit the watching the sun edging for the Spend the night at Lake seven islands right located in the steep hill keeping the lake in Bogoria spa, the only hotel with expansive lake and sample the shape. a naturally heated spa-from the hotels perched on the shores and From Marigat, one can also

DAY THREE: From Marigat, drive on to Kabarnet town, a town named after Australian missionary Albert Barnett. Kabarnet has been the administrative headquarters for Baringo since 1907 as the British colonial government made it the centre of the local government. The town is located on the eastern edge of the Kerio Valley and is approximately 138 kilometres north of Nakuru town and 89 kilometres east of Eldoret through Eldoret-Iten-Kabarnet road. Here, one can stroll to Kabarnet museum right in Kabarnet town. One can also access public galleries featuring the culture of Rift Valley people, their environment and indigenous knowledge. Create time and take in the spectacular view of Tugen Hills, Elgeiyo escarpment and Kerio valley. While in Kabarnet, one can drive down to Kabartonjo and Kipsaraman to enjoy Tugen Hills, Mt Saimo and Morop hills. The latter hosts a splendid waterfall that streams to Lake Baringo. Chat with the locals and they will regale you with tales of how this hills acted as a slave trading routes in the years gone by. This, is also a home to over 400 bird species and numerous endangered tree species including the famous Tamarind tree. Tired form the day’s activities; rest your head at the Rift Valley Hills Resort. Wrap up the road trip, enjoy the scenic views of the Kerio belt as you drive down the reknown strail down from Kabarnet to Iten. This is one of the most scenic roads in the country with magical views including Torok falls, Kerio Valley, Cheploch gorge and Lake Kamnarok, the second largest host of crocodiles in Africa after Lake Chad. The journey, finally leads to Iten, the ‘town on the run’. This town is one of a highest altitude area in the world where training for the Ineos historic run took shape. From Iten, a 30 minutes’ drive finally lands a fulfilled traveller in Eldoret where they can spend a night at Boma Inn, Sirikwa, Poa place among others.

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THe COnnOISSeUR

Betting on a casino culture As government scrambles to rein in on sports gambling, Travelog spotlights the place of traditional casinos in a fastchanging landscape. By Travel Buff travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

Who is atilla Torok?

I am the Country Manager of Millionaires Casino. I have been in the casino business for 27 years and have been with the Millionaire Group for approximately two and a half years starting with a posting in South America. It was always my desire to come to Africa and witness its celebrated beauty firsthand. I was elated, thus, when I was recently selected to head East and Central Africa. I reported for duty about a year ago. My career started as a dealer in the casino after training before becoming a manager. I have to admit, however, that I miss being a dealer as it was the best part of my life. I enjoy dealing with customers and providing customer service. How do you describe gambling to an audience who consider it a vice?

Everyone enjoys winning and

that explains the innumerable competitive games and sports we engage in. There is an adrenaline rush and confidence build that comes with knowing that you are the best at something. Our innate nature to play and win forms the basis of gambling. The bottom line for everyone is transparency and a fair chance to win. How addictive can gambling be and can it be practiced safely?

Gambling can be very addictive if not regulated. Online gambling, for example, is very easy to access. The easy access comes with a downside. The sheer number makes it difficult to regulate and loopholes that allow underage persons and those without disposable income to participate with their livelihoods and potentially become addicted. At our casino, we care about our clients and have a guest relations department charged with the responsibility of understanding the client, their spending power and their personality. The time that you can spend in the casino is also limited to allow you to engage in other life matters. We are also

able to monitor the level of risk taken and prevent the player from going overboard. We also monitor the money and time a guest spends. Should a client exceed their spending power, we take them aside and counsel them on the dangers of addiction. In addition, we offer other entertainment options, including fine dining, for our guests to enjoy. What are your thoughts on the Governmentâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s directive to kick out some sports betting sports companies?

Governments have to look after interests of the country. Gambling is a sector that requires regulation and the Betting Control and Licensing Board is in charge of this. I trust that what happened recently is based on credible research and a good understanding on what requires to be done in the gaming industry. Overtaxing, in my opinion, is not a way of creating a good environment for the business. A good under-

standing of the industry and the right level of taxation, which will allow the industry to remain sustainable, is an ongoing process. To achieve this, proper communication between the industry and the governing sector is key. Card games like casino poker and black jack are not common in kenya. So who plays?

While Black Jack is the most traditional card game in this industry. Most Kenyan know it as the game of 21, but relatively few play it. The poker game, on the other hand, is huge in Kenya. There are so many variations over here than I have actually never seen in my life. There are different types like jambo poker, seven card poker, the tree card poker, and Russian poker. In our case, we do not only concentrate on tradition, but incorporate fan favourites as well. What is unique about this place is that every table game has a progressive jackpot, which no other casino has. This means that when you play Black Jack, for instance, and make a bet on a progressive jack pot game; if you are lucky from time to time youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll be able to have an extra winning which is a jackpot winning.

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made in kenya Follow us on Instagram: @TravelogKe Twitter: @TravelogKe Facebook: Travelog Ke Website: travelog.ke

Taste of Southern hospitality Charles Morley breaks down a South African classic, mostly compared to jerky, that recently made a commercial debut in Kenya.

Our biltong is all handmade from the beginning to the end – this means we can ensure the best product possible and make sure that every packet you

travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

Biltong (pronounced “bill-tong”) is a traditional South African snack where meat (beef in our case) is marinated in spices and vinegar then is left to air dry in a controlled environment until its ready. Biltong was originally made as a way to preserve meat, but the unique taste means that it is still prepared and sold despite modern preservation techniques. Farmhouse biltong is one of the first producers of high quality biltong and other dried meat snacks in Kenya. Biltong is an ideal snack for all meat-allowing diets and because its naturally high in protein and low in sugar it’s also the perfect pre and post work out snack. It is gluten-free, keto friendly, low fat and high flavour. As far as nutritional facts go for biltong, in general, it’s normally much healthier than jerky, as it tends to be much leaner.

The company started when the love for this snack was made more accessible by producing biltong in our kitchen for personal consumption. As fate would have it, family members and friends really liked the product and started putting in order. It went from just pocket money to being a good business idea and production went to a more commercial and controlled environment to ensure correct standards were followed.

Where it’s Made:

By Jimmy Mwangi

The Product:

The brand Inspiration and early days:

What is the difference between Biltong and Jerky? Biltong and Jerky are similar in that they are both dried meats. The taste and the production process, however, is different. Biltong originates from South Africa, whereas Jerky originates from North and South America. In terms of texture, there is a vast difference. Biltong is, in its basic form, a dried steak, which is then cut to eat. This means you can have it wet or ‘rare’, medium, or hard ‘well done’ biltong. However, as jerky is cut then dehydrated anywhere from 3-8 hours, it makes for an overall drier product. It’s also usually Jerky can be made from either whole meat or minced meat. Biltong is traditionally marinated in vinegar and spices that add extra flavour to the meat. While jerky often has a dry and smoky taste. This is the key difference, Biltong is hung and air-dried, while jerky is cooked on a rack.

buy is as good as the last one. We make our biltong using the finest Laikipia beef and imported spices. Our biltong is currently made in Nanyuki and Gilgil. This allows us to send it throughout the country and hopefully to the rest of east Africa soon.

The price point: Farmhouse biltong is currently sold in country farm shops around Kenya but is also sold in gyms, supermarkets in Nanyuki, sports clubs, and a few butcheries. You will hopefully start seeing the product online in your favourite health shops and in supermarkets soon. There are various packet sizes, but the most popular is the 100g packet retails as Sh550, probably because it is a good snack size.

Image courtesy of The Greatest Masai Mara Photographer of the Year

Instagram profile: @hshphotos

Photographer: Sushil Chauhan

â&#x20AC;&#x2122;A leopard taking full advantage of a sudden zebra crossing. He had done this many times before but this time the mother Zebra was not going to let him have it easy. She made a valiant attempt to save her foal, but the Leopard had already done the damage. A very powerful yet pitiful scene. It was truly a brief battle between spots and stripes.

SPOTS VS STRIPES

SHOOTING SCENE