Travelog January Edition: A Fresh Start by Standard Group PLC

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JANUARY 2020

A fresh start

The Standard

EDITOR’S WORD

What‘s next for Travelog? SAVVY TRAVELLER Pg 21

ULTIMATE ESCAPE Pg 8-9

DEBONAIR Pg 31

Most people, after constantly failing, consider New Year resolutions a hoax. I too was a skeptic until I intentionally pushed myself to commit to a fresh start this past year. I desperately want to hike the mountain after which my country is named but was struggling with some aspects of my life that were holding me back. My first hurdle was unhealthy habits I had picked up in that I felt was weighing down on my health. A fresh start helped me quit cold turkey and begin a new regimen. Talking of weight, when you cannot tie your laces without losing breath, then that is a cue to hit the gym. The problem is that I cannot sustain a gym routine, so a more practical and safe alternative was the only option. A fresh start, and 12 months on, I have dropped three stones from an average 15 stones on a sustainable routine. Write in should you want in on my ‘secret’. I have managed a series of trial hikes in the Aberdares but not enough to build the stamina needed for my summit search slated for March. The strides achieved are thanks to encouragement from my hiking guide and I seek to share the same gift by inviting you to join me on this journey.

To encourage your travel aspirations, we will continue with our monthly holiday giveaways. Tired of the same old haunts, we highlight Kenya’s signature experiences that you should attempt at least once in your life. Nothing sets off a fresh start like an inspirational tale and in this issue, we share the experiences of two Kenyan travel veterans consumed by wanderlust and living their best lives. One undertook the treacherous road journey down to the Okavango Delta while the other is attempting to visit every country in the world, wait for it … twice. One thing that they have in common is that travel has made their formerly corporate lives more fulfilling. Following in their footsteps is a young Kenyan who has dropped everything for the road. Follow his journey in subsequent issues. To urge you on in this new turn, Travelog Travel Club will ‘Jaza Hoteli’ at ridiculously affordable prices this year. Follow us on social media and on www.travelog.ke to learn how to participate.

Thorn Mulli

CONNOISSEUR Pg 30 EDITOR-IN-CHIEF: Ochieng Rapuro GROUP EXECUTIVE EDITOR AND HEAD OF NEWS: Kipkoech Tanui I MANAGING EDITOR: Denis Galava I EDITOR: Thorn Mulli SUB EDITOR: Sandra Mulluka EDITOR, PARTNERSHIPS AND PROJECTS: Andrew Kipkemboi MANAGER, PRINT CREATIVE: Dan Weloba I CREATIVE DESIGNERS: Liz Wanjiku, Lydia Amusolo, Alice Ariri, Gilbert Sigey, Paul Ndiang’ui, Virginia Borura, Benson Wanjau, Tracy Bett I CONTRIBUTORS: Jayne Rose Gacheri, Josaya Wasonga, Jimmy Mwangi,

Lubnar Abdulhalim, Ivy Waridi, Tamara Britten, Travel Buff I PHOTOGRAPHY: David Gichuru I BRAND MANAGER: Seth Enos Registered at the GPO as a

newspaper. The Standard is printed and published by the proprietors THE STANDARD GROUP PLC Email: travelog@standardmedia.co.ke Follow us on Instagram: @TravelogKe Twitter: @TravelogKe Facebook: Travelog Ke Website: travelog.ke Take a selfie with the January issue of Travelog and share it on email or any of our social media platforms for a chance to win three nights on full-board basis at Diani Reef Beach Hotel.

EDWIN MWORIA, JANUARY WINNER OF CIALA RESORT KISUMU GIFT VOUCHER

The Standard

[David Gichuru]

SWAHILI BEACH RESORT TRAVEL AGENTS AWARD NIGHT AT CAPITAL CLUB

Kenya Airways cabin crew pictured with the event MC, Sheila Mwanyigha.

Moni and Kelly Kalsi hold their award at the event.

Suzanne Wachu, Lea Wanjaria and Winnie Wanjaria looked resplendent for the evening.

WWF HERD OF ONE INITIATIVE LAUNCH

Sankara Hotel Director Rohan Patel, and the hotel’s General Manager Krishna Unni present a cheque to WWF Director, Business Development and Media Communication, Joyce Isiaho and WWF Board Director, Agnes Odhiambo.

WWF Executive Director and Regional Officer for Africa Alice Ruhweza and Sankara Hotel Director Rohan Patel.

KTN News anchor Ali Maanzu with Sandra Kasyula and Isaac Ochieng of Emory hotel.

WWF’s Martin Mulama and Alex Kubasu looking dapper with Keijah Bekah of Sankara Hotel.

Nashipae Orumoy and Pranjal Sharma.

MAGICAL KENYA SIGNATURE EXPERIENCES AWARD CEREMONY AT RADISSON BLU

Ministry of Tourism Cabinet Secretary Najib Balala presents an award to National Museums of Kenya Public Relations Manager Sharon Kyungu.

Kenyatta International Convention Centre Nana Gecaga shares a moment with Kenya Tourism Board CEO Betty Radier.

Judith Mutheu and Lorraine Wairimu stepped out looking splendid.

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TRAVEL TALK Follow us on Instagram: @TravelogKe Twitter: @TravelogKe Facebook: Travelog Ke Website: travelog.ke

By Lubnah Abdulhalim travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

hen you go abroad, family and friends won’t miss an opportunity to remind you how lucky and blessed you are. Young children will proudly quip: “I have an aunt in London” to appear cool. Family gatherings will be incomplete without your ‘presence’. The chief of the mtaa will refer to you in baraza meetings. Your mother will not refer to you by your name but instead say, “Si you know my eldest son? The one in Qatar, working as a manager?” You are the pride of the community. But underneath this pride, there are expectations imposed on you the moment you touch down:

Suddenly, you have become the elite of the community and that comes at a price. It does not matter whether you went out of the country for school, business or a short holiday. Anyone who travels abroad is automatically regarded differently. Your newfound status comes with expectations; “When will you build your parents a house at the farm so that they can at least they enjoy their old age?” “Your uncle has been very ill. You should chip in for his medical bill,” “Are you going

Living abroad? Expectations Most Kenyans know someone living in the diaspora. Those who don‘t, wish they did. to sponsor one of your siblings’ education now that you live in Australia?”… No one really knows or cares about the struggle of settling in a foreign land, but being out there somehow makes you wealthy. But who cares to ask anyway?

Your extended family expects gifts. A few weeks, or even months before your awaited arrival, the requests start streaming in from that aunt who was never fond of you, old friends you haven’t talked to in years, your former neighbour who did you a favour decades ago... you name it. Someone wants a designer perfume that isn’t available locally, another wants the latest iPhone and another “just a laptop”. All this while, no one asks you if you can afford it or the inconvenience it will be to you to buy the “gift”. Si uko ulaya? Haya! Deal with it!

A foreign accent is betrayal. “So you went to live with the wazungu and now you know better eh? You can’t even speak like us anymore?” Somehow, maintaining your accent equals to honouring your roots. The opposite, on the other hand, elicits gossip about how ‘pretentious’ your foreign accent is. This is despite the fact that they secretly envy ‘your enhanced accent’ wishing they were you.

You MUST have some queer mannerisms. Strange questions will start streaming in; “I hear they eat crows there, did you try it out too?”,“Is it true that in their culture, they believe in unicorns, do you think they really exist?” “There is a new Korean series, did you watch it while there?” I mean, there MUST be something new you picked from them, right?

5 6

Cook us a Turkish meal. “You’ve been in Turkey for how long again? Two years? You should prepare us a Turkish meal! Isn’t that the first thing after language that people in a new country learn?” Be independent While it might seem odd, returning from oversees is a cue an end to any financial support. Surely you can’t be broke! Who lives in a first-world country and still needs third-world help? Your problems no longer exist and someone else deserves the financial help. You are now expected to be fully independent.

You are the family’s de facto philanthropist You are the first person everyone thinks of when they are in trouble. The first person your reckless cousin calls when pulled over for over-speeding. The first person called when a relative’s child gets admitted to school. The first person invited to a baby shower or wedding. In all these, you are expected to act like a generous ATM machine.

You get a privilege pass You will be excused for rude behaviour. They will cut you some slack when you confront your elders, something that would otherwise have earned you a hot slap in the past. “He has been away for long, things are different there,” they will say.

The Standard

Comfy shoes

It might seem like an obvious thing but you’ll be surprised to learn that you have been wearing the wrong travel shoes all along. Shoes are an essential part of travel as you need a pair for different activities. Get a stylish pair but ensure that comfort is your number one priority.

Anti-crease shirt transporter

This is the only guarantee to a crease-free trip. This gadget mostly favours men but also comes in handy for women’s clothing, like a shirt dress.

Must have

2020

Travelling never goes out of fashion. It becomes even better when you are prepared. This list at the start of the year will guide your purchase of travel essentials to ensure that you have the time of your life on the next trip.

By Peris Wambugu Reusable water bottle

Apart from ensuring that you are hydrated throughout your trip, a reusable bottle is also eco-friendly. Besides, they come in outrageously cool designs.

Sunnies and a hat

No one wants to come back from a trip with dark circles around their eyes or a terrible sunburn. When it comes to these two, make sure you get functional and fitting items.

Money belt

The easiest way to carry your money and travel documents. It saves you the hustle of carrying your cash, passport and other travel documents at one go, and acts as an anti-theft accessory.

travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

Smart watch

A smart watch can make life simpler. While on a trip, this gadget helps keep track of your fitness. It can also be used as a mobile phone substitute to send and receive phone calls, play your favourite tunes, check emails and get weather alerts.

Suitcase

A suitcase determines how good or bad your trip will be, right from packing, to the airport and on arrival. Get one that’s easy to organise, carry and pull or haul. Additional features like charging ports, water-resistant fabric, sturdy wheels, and a security lock are a bonus. Since you’ll be rolling your case across streets and from one hotel to the next, it helps to have a durable one.

A good camera

You obviously want to make memories while on your trip so it only makes sense to invest in a good camera. Get one that matches your budget, is easy to operate and hardy.

Meet Kenyan globetrotter who has visited all 195 countries Muturi, who has 35 passports in his collection and can speak 12 languages, hopes to repeat the feat of going round the world in 2020 By Jayne Rose Gacheri travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

“I

am like a stork. Every year I leave Poland in October and do not return until the end of March,” says Slawek Muturi as he ushers me to the boardroom of the Polish Trade Office in Upperhill, Nairobi. The view from here is magnificent and breathtaking. “I have countless memo-

ries of such incredible backdrops,” Muturi interrupts my thoughts. Slawek Muturi was visiting Nairobi on his way to Cairo and Sydney by road. This was in his scheduled visit of all 195 countries by end of 2020. He is probably the first man in the world to visit all the countries twice, some of which he has visited more than 20 times. Having visited all the 193 member states of the UN, The Vatican City and Palestine, Muturi has 35 passports in his collection and can speak 12 languages. How it all began Muturi believes he was born a free spirit. “My late father, Muturi Mukiria, was Kenyan and my mother is Polish. I have loved travelling since I was a child, even before I learned to read, I already knew the names of the countries,” he explains. He says he learned to read on the geographical atlas. He was fortunate to travel a lot as a child. I mention that I come from Kajiado, and to my surprise he is quick to tell me he lived in Ngong, Upper Matasia, saying he knows the entire landscape like the back of his hands. I wonder how much information he has about the countries of the world.

“I travelled a lot with my parents and before I was 18, I had already been to Tanzania, Egypt, and Germany,” he says. After completing high school in Kenya, he went to Poland for university studies, an opportunity that opened up all of Europe to his travelling passion. But before he started his studies, he took a trip to Sweden with his peers from Kenya to pick strawberries. He spent his earnings on an “interrail” ticket that enabled him to travel all over Europe for a month. Also, he had a Kenyan passport, with which he could enter most European countries without a visa. This slowly became an annual ritual. He would invest in travel money earned on seasonal work and was able to visit practically all countries of the Old Continent while he was a student. He says travelling to Western Europe was easier than travelling to Eastern Europe. In most of his travels to countries such as Czechoslovakia, there were complications and barriers everywhere, he recounts. Muturi recalls a journey that he had his two friends made while still students. The planned trip was to Kenya by

flight, but on arrival in England, the duo abandoned flyingand opted for a road trip. They bought an old Land Rover and embarked on a trip that lasted ten months, during which they toured Austria, Italy, and Sicily and took a ship to Tunisia. From here, they turned to Algeria and travelled to Kenya through the Sahara Desert. By the end of the 1989 trip, they had covered 21 countries. It was a long time after that before he got such a chance to go on a long journey again. In his adult life, Muturi focused all his major life choices to travel and went on to study international trade, which landed him dream job at the United Nations, which allowed him to travel a lot. “When I got married, I persuaded my wife to work for an airline and thanks to that we have been getting very cheap and sometimes even free tickets.” Together with their two children – a boy and a girl, the family has travelled to countries like Brazil and Japan among others. Travelling for a challenge and a goal In 2000, the Muturi travel bug

SAVVY TRAVELLER Follow us on Instagram: @TravelogKe Twitter: @TravelogKe Facebook: Travelog Ke Website: www.travelog.ke

Muturi during his travels all over the world. Top right: The globetrotter shows his collection of 35 passports. [Courtesy]

countries and each time he would set new goals, which he pushes to exceed. This is how he has covered all 195 global countries, some of them more than 20 times evolved into a passion of seeing the whole world. One day, he stumbled onto a newspaper page detailing global weather information. The countries that he had not been to were less than 100. “I figured that since I had already been to more than a third without a plan, order, and composition, then maybe with a plan, I could be able to see them all,” he says. He did not doubt that this was achievable. He set a long-term goal, 13 years, by which he should have accomplished his dream. Since then, he has never turned back. He knew he had to be financially stable to accomplish this dream. Earlier in 1998, he had figured out a way of early retirement and saved to invest in real estate – buying and renting apartments. The investments paid off and Muturi had money to spare for his travels. At the time of his retirement in 2009, he had established the biggest Real Estate, Mzuri Company (a business concept he got from his Kenyan uncle), an apartment rental business in Poland and with a firm foundation; he now could retire and travel at 44 years old. Deal sealed, the next goal was to learn as many languages as he could. Today he speaks 12 languages fluently, including Kikuyu and Swahili. He has published seven books touching on financial freedom and investing in real estate. By 2002, Muturi had visited 26 new

What are his travel plans? “When I worked in consulting, we had a travel agency that handled our business trips, and I often asked for assistance in finding flights,” he explains, adding that most of the travel staff often thought he was crazy because he would be asking for flights for different parts of the world at the same time. “For example, I could ask for a ticket to Samoa Islands through Fiji, where I can fly through Los Angeles or Singapore, then to Argentina, Chile and maybe to Bolivia. “I am fascinated by storks. The birds hate winter just as I do, and so every winter, they would leave Poland and only come back when the winter was over.” He says what has intrigued him most was the preparation of the migratory birds before they embarked on their

“I am fascinated by storks. The birds hate winter just as I do, and so every winter, they leave Poland and only come back when winter was over before they embarked on their more than 6,000 km journey to Africa and other countries”

more than 6,000-kilometre journey to Africa and other countries. They would spend time congregating in open fields. “I have often thought that these were planning meetings where they would choose their leaders – the strongest who would break air currents for the rest of the flock as they fly, most of the time gliding in a formation,” he explains, adding that this is why they are in inspiration. One of his memorable challenges was travelling to Iraq and Afghanistan, which he had to postpone due to war but finally, he was able to visit. “Even the Iraqis were surprised that I visited as a tourist and not a doctor coming for a military mission,” he says grinning. “Also troublesome was Somalia. Difficult cities I have been to include Kabul, Erbil, and Mogadishu.” However, his biggest problem was with

Equatorial Guinea. He tried getting a visa many times even from England, Brussels, and Berlin unsuccessfully. Finally, he got it. Parting Shot Muturi hopes to have visited each of the 195 countries at least twice by end of 2021, during which he intends to raise funds to provide accommodation for adults leaving foster homes back in Poland. Each year, he says more than 17, 000 young adults leave foster homes in Poland with no fixed abode to stay as they struggle to be independent. If the project is successful, he will bring the idea to Kenya. At the same time, by the time he makes this global cycle, he hopes to enter the Guinness Book of Records as the first human being to visit all the 195 countries of the world – twice.

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GETAWAY

Gem in the Rift Valley The resort‘s pool, naturally heated by Bogoria subterranean geyser activity, is green. Not from algae, but from the reflection of the trees on the raised land that overlooks it By Tony Mochama travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

f you Google ‘hidden gems – hotels’, you will get almost 50 million results. From hidden gems in the heart of Bangkok, to top 10 underrated hotels in Europe, to the hidden gems of Goa, the Alps, Japan, San Anton, Saint Martin and the Saas Fee (a place of hidden, icy resorts in Switzerland). Travelog recently stumbled upon a true ‘hidden gem’ in Baringo County. Just over 100 kilometres true north of Nakuru, and so less than a couple of hours’ car ride from there, big billboards tell one exactly where to

turn right (off the Nakuru-Sigor Road) leading to Marigat. And the winding, scenic road to the actual resort is as smooth as a setting involving a Murang’a one-man guitar and hornitos anejo tequila in the perfect margarita. When you get there, you will be surprised by the presence of chilled out looking ostriches majestically roaming the expansive tree-dotted grounds of the resort. The reception, in spite of its large welcoming couch and wooden décor, has a nice ‘Old Skool’ feel. This is mostly because of the presence of a taxidermy (stuffed) life-size lion just below the reception area television. The king of the jungle is not just l i f e -s i z e d but life-like too, down to the glitter of its glassy eyes. A grand fierce creature, forever immortalised in the front area of Lake Bogoria Spa Resort & Hotel. General Manager Lydia Dentewo is the gentle direct counter-point to the fierce grandeur of the lion. A hands-on GM who is personally concerned with the welfare of every guest, she warmly welcomes us. It is ‘Lady Lydia’ who clearly sets the tone for the rest of her staff.

Hungry from the journey from Nairobi, I settle for lunch, among a bustle of local, European, Chinese and USAID guests. It is a buffet of the standard fare, with deft African touches like mursik and fruits straight from Bogoria Resort’s own orchard, which means they taste as fresh as that apple from the Garden of Eden. On certain days of the week, Madam Dentewo says, they have a ‘Maasai market’ where the w o m e n from the surrounding community come to the hotel grounds and lay out their wares for visitors to buy – although the resort does have its own curio shop tucked away at the hot pool – which also has its own bar. The pool, naturally heated by Bogoria sub-terranean geyser activity, is green in colour. Not from algae, but from the reflection of the trees on raised land gradient that overlooks it. One can spend the afternoon as I did with a drink and a novel on the side-

or join the fun in the pool as a few patrons did, splashing about. Lake Bogoria resort is perfect for couple or family fun, tourists looking for a real ‘hidden Kenyan gem.’ But it is also not called ‘the healing place’ for a reason. I saw the famous spa, and although I did not indulge in its seductive steamy waters, I could see how a troubled soul, broken heart or simply just someone seeking serenity, a break from grueling business life or the divinity of meditation may find Lake Bogoria Spa the perfect solace. After dinner and watching the antics of some amusing trad dancers and jumpers, I was off to sleep. In the morning, I shared my room fruits with the cute monkeys that are so domesticated that they hang upside down and open taps on the grounds to drink water, like the mischievous lot they are. Why did the chicken cross the road? I don’t know, but I do know where the flamingos of Lake Nakuru disappeared to. They migrated to the shores of Lake Bogoria, which was where, after breakfast, one goes. Also, to experi-

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THE STORY BEHIND

Hawecha, the Oromo dreamer

Her birth heralded a new beginning for the girl-child of the community Who are the Oromo?

By Jayne-Rose Gacheri

They are an Eastern Cushitic ethnic group, a sub-group of the Galla people inhabiting Ethiopia. They were pushed southwards by the Somalis, perhaps as long ago as the 10th Century. After several hundred years, they migrated even further south into the southern part of what is now Ethiopia. Sometime around the middle of the 16th Century, another subgroup of the Galla, the Borana occupied the land originally inhabited by the Oromo. There are an estimated 23 million Oromo, making them one of the most numerous people in Africa. From the 18th to the 19th Century, Oromos were the dominant influence in northern Ethiopia. Both the Borana and the Oromo share a common political-legal system and customs. They also share the same spiritual beliefs and the same spiritual leadership. The separation is mainly one of the national boundaries. One of the legends they share is Hawecha, the Oromo dreamer.

travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

wo hundred years ago, a girl was born to the Oromo tribe, which occupies the land of southern Ethiopia and the far north of Kenya. The girl, Hawecha, was born at a time when women had no power. As fate would have it, however, she would become a renowned proclaimer of future happenings that saved her tribe from great calamities – famine, pestilence, war, and death. Eventually, she became a part of the Oromo oral history. Humble beginnings Hawecha was born to a beautiful mother. His father Dhaki, was handsome too; stern, tall and proud. It is creative to imagine how beautiful Hawecha was. Google’s Arts & Culture Hawecha: the story of the Oromo dreamer describes her exceptional beauty thus: “high cheekbones, long nose, wavy soft silken hair, and a scarf rustling in the wind.” The folklore has it that Hawecha was born into a small Oromo family – her father was of the Gono half of the Oromo tribe, and she, as tradition dictated, was expected to be married by a man from the Sabba half of the Oromo tribe. Her father would proudly marry her off when the time came. That was not going to be the case, however. She lost her father at the tender age of seven. Even before her mother’s grieving tears dried, the grim reaper struck again. This time his cruel hand claimed her baby sister. The dreamer Maybe because of her encounter with death so young, Hawecha was pensive, quiet, introverted and habitually lost in a world of her own. Because of these musings, villagers nicknamed her “Hawecha the dreamer”. Just when she thought life was getting fairer, she lost her mother, leaving her in the hands of her uncle. At age 18, her uncle, as custom dictated,

found her a suitor and soon Hawecha was married to Juldess. Hers was a difficult marriage. Despite her beauty, Juldess set his eyes on other women. To add to her tribulations, for seven years, she could not conceive and when she finally did, she lost her son during birth. The marriage irrevocably broke down. Such was the background setting that introduced Hawecha to her legendary journey of being the Oromo

dreamer. According to Oromo folklore, Hawecha became the greatest prophet of her time. The first dream of note was a warning about an impending catastrophe caused by disease that would befall her people. This came to pass. Then again, she foresaw a protracted drought and famine, which too, happened. Accounts say Hawecha’s visions that came with complete solutions saved her people from war,

devastation and death on several occasions. Hawecha: A woman for all times While her folktale is mostly passed down orally from one generation to the next, author Rhodia Mann has documented the story of Hawecha in her book, Hawecha: A Woman for All Times. Today, the story of Hawecha encourages parents to take their daughters to school. In 1986 in commemoration of Hawecha, the Comboni Missionaries founded Hawecha Girls Primary School in northeastern Kenya. The priests made rounds to Oromo homesteads with an irresistible offer of free education to a son in exchange for allowing a girl to go to school. They would school open with 12 young girls. In 1994, the first Borana girl attended the University of Nairobi and by 1995, there were 200 girls at the Hawecha Girls’ Primary School. In 1998, three girls joined a Nairobi commercial college and in this unexpected way, the Hawecha legend lives on!

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I WENT THERE

A pilgrimage to Kapenguria By Josaya Wasonga travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

Nothern site has rich historical value as this is where Kenya‘s notable freedom fighters were detained

icture this: a white block with eight green wooden doors. Six of these doors have nametags on them with peep holes whose circumference is approximately 15 centimetres. Welcome to Kapenguria. For six months prior to being sent to Lokitaung, this was the home to Kenya’s most famous pre-independence prisoners: Fred Kubai, Achieng’ Oneko, Bildad Kaggia, Kung’u Karumba, Mzee Jomo Kenyatta and Paul Ngei – popularly known as the Kapenguria Six. “This facility was built in 1926 as a prison for locals who absconded from work. During those times, Africans were issued with identity cards known as kipande, which were hang around their necks and, among other things, detailed their tribes and restricted their movements,” our guide tells us with the doors directly in front of us. The first room is the reporting office where each morning the detainees would be called in, one after the other, to be reminded of the crimes they had committed against the colonial government. In my opinion, this is not just a tourist stop. It’s a pilgrimage. As I enter into our founding fathers’ detention rooms, I am catapulted back into time. I was a young boy barely in my teens, when I would hear my father talking about the struggle for independence and how Achieng’ Oneko – he was especially fond

Jomo Kenyatta (centre) and Daniel Moi (third right). Moi first met Kenyatta in Lodwar where the latter had been incarcerated alongside his Kapenguria Six colleagues Paul Ngei, Kung’u Karumba, Bildad Kaggia, Achieng’ Oneko and Fred Kubai. [File, Standard]

of him – had been detained at Kapenguria with the other five. “Now that I’m here, where do I start?” I think after our guide has excused himself. I step into the detainees’ cells. My rough estimate is that they are approximately six-by-nine feet in size. The floor is cemented and, just like I thought, feels cold to the touch. I once spent a night in a police cell in Nairobi and – the unrealistically high roof with wire mesh bars that act as ventilators – bears a striking similarity to these rooms. I am six feet tall and, to get a bearing of how high the mesh windows are, I instinctively stretch out my hand. The tip of my forefinger touches where the wire mesh begins. These windows must have been placed this high so that those detained couldn’t see what was going on outside. The museum has given the cells a fresh coat of paint, but even so, I can make out some inscriptions on the doors. I try to decipher whatever it is that is scratched on the doors, but it’s obvious that paint and time have obliterated the inscriptions. I wish they would have preserved these as well, as

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I WENT THERE I reflect on my brief incarceration at Nairobi Central Police Station where I encountered of some uplifting writings. I enter Mzee’s former detention cell, snuggled between Karumba’s and Ngei’s. It has a worn-out sisal mat as bedding and a gray iron pail with two handles that was for lavatory purposes. When Mzee arrived in Kapenguria, he was sick and the authorities here provided him with this pail to ease his discomfort. The other detainees had to make do with the facilities outside their rooms. I take an inordinately large amount of time in Mzee’s cell. Then I remember the oft-whispered rumour that our current pres-

ident, Uhuru Kenyatta, was conceived in this room. Must have been one tough conjugal call for Mzee, I think, as I touch the thin sisal mat. Touching the things that our first president personally used, though in pain, makes me feel honoured. I got to see Mzee once or twice when I was about six years old, and being here almost four decades later brings back the old man’s bearded and greying hair images, albeit quite fuzzy. “Oneko was isolated because he was a troublemaker,” I remember our guide telling us, and perhaps, that’s why my dad liked him. Oneko’s new cell was separated from the others by a concrete col-

umn. It is six-by-nine feet in size. The roof is much lower and, when I stretched myself to my full height, my forefinger touched the tip of the roof’s beam. As I finish my tour, I only wish that there was more to this than just the bare rooms with press cuttings. For a museum that holds such an integral place in our nation’s history, I felt like I was shortchanged. Experience-wise, that is. I’ve often heard Mzee’s recorded speeches. His booming articulate voice, in his detention room, would have sent

me home with a more rounded historical experience. And, who knows, maybe it could have cleared cobwebs off my memories. Still, if you were born long after independence and trying to fill in some of those historical gaps, then this is one of the places that you ought to visit. The history textbooks may have some bits and pieces, but nothing beats the feeling of spending some time in the place where an enormous part of our nation’s rich tapestry was woven.

THERE’S MORE TO THE POKOT THAN CATTLE RUSTLING If you had asked me yesterday – nay, even five minutes ago – before I came to this block, I would have bluntly told you that, to me, the name Pokot conjures images of tribal warriors who are not shy to defend their land and cattle. Come to think of it, I don’t personally know of anyone, even a nodding acquaintance, who is a Pokot. My knowledge of these countrymen is restricted to what the print and electronic media shoves down my throat. As I pace through the deserted Pokot Gallery in Kapenguria Museum, I’m abruptly having an attitude shift. The curator excused himself a while ago to attend to a prior meeting. So, I’m all alone here, trying to join the dots by myself. Then again, it is more enlightening that I’m here on my own. This way, I can chew at these cultural cuds in peace. I can’t help but marvel at the wide array of artefacts that portray the Pokot’s way of life and demystifies thoughts that I’ve previously had about

them. The Gallery was founded in 1993 by the National Museums of Kenya with the support of the ASAL Programme of West Pokot. A Dutch couple, Dr and Mrs Mulder, donated assorted Pokot objects and photos that they had collected in Ortum from 1974 to 1977. “The Pokot pressured the government to set up this gallery when the Kapenguria Museum was being opened,” the curator had told me earlier. The museum features stunning photos that display an eclectic mix of Pokot traditional life, ranging from rites of passage such as circumcision, to seemingly mundane things like ornamental wear. To try and understand the varied facets that encompass Pokot culture and traditions, make sure you spend time at the model that is laid. It hits your eyes from the opposite end right after you step in, and talks about an organised way of living including medicine and commerce.

Check out the pictures. They tell different stories from what many have always believed to be the truth. I was particularly drawn to the picture of a Pokot woman resplendent in traditional regalia: cowrie shells, iron bracelets, necklaces, large colourful hanging earrings and a cow-hide dress. On her left arm she is clutching a mabati bucket, which is slightly pried open, and an empty can of Kimbo cooking fat. To me, this picture aptly captures the scene of modernity and culture lovingly interacting, not clashing but each giving space to the other. The woman is holding on to both her traditional values and embracing modernity. This Pokot proverb that I gleaned from one of the portraits aptly captures this moment for me: ‘Pusu poltoy cho relach, which loosely translates to ‘like the clouds in the sky, new people will replace the old ones, but people will continue to exist’.

12 HIDDEN GEMS Ekorian Mugie Camp Kayaking at the Mugie Dam: Embracing the notion of travelling with a purpose. Ekorian offers a chance to engage with wildlife conservation projects, local communities including healthcare and educational programmes in a practical and impactful manner.

+254 signature experiences By Jimmy Mwangi travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

he Kenya Tourism Board has benchmarked with leading destinations in the world and launched the Magical Kenya Signature Experiences (MKSE) programme. These experiences respond to travellers’ desires to expose themselves beyond the mainstream tourist activities. They are based on Kenya’s key resources and attractions to which elements of seduction and fascination are deliberately added. These elements can be the story behind the attraction, learning about a subject of interest, the activation of human senses through music, lights, scents, with travellers being involved in an activity, and the exclusivity of getting access to premises not available to everyone, among others. When you apply these seduction and fascination elements to an activity, travellers are immersed in a positive emotional state of mind that will claim a place in their memory and to which they will keep returning. There are four

types of experiences in this programme, depending on whether the traveller is active or passive, and whether their mind is absorbed, or they are physically or mentally immersed. •Edutainment Experiences: These increase the customer’s skills and enhance his or her knowledge through active participation. •Entertainment Experiences: These entail watching the activities and/or performances of others. The customer is not actively involved in the creation of the entertainment, but the mind is actively engaged during the appreciation of the event. •Escapist Experiences: These require that the customer actively participates in the events, whether physically present or in a virtual environment. The customer shapes or contributes to the experience, which offers them a way of taking on a new persona. •Aesthetic Experiences: These entail customer enjoyment of an enriched, unique physical design. The customer enjoys passively appreciating or “just being in a setting”. The programme is not a credential or a marketing campaign. The signature experiences are instead planned to promote Kenya as a whole. Out of an impressive 69 entries, 15 experiences were recognised for being most outstanding. They are:

Elewana Collections-

Elewana Collections The Star Beds at Loisaba : Poised on a rocky kopje, the Star Beds command sweeping views over an undulating valley. Rustically designed to complement the surrounding environment, each star bed is individually built in harmony with the natural rocky features, jutting out from a thatched-roof accommodation whilst offering “the biggest bedroom in the world, where the night sky is your ceiling and the hills in the distance are your walls”.

Finch Hattons

Finch Hattons Luxury: At Finch Hattons, discover the safari of a bygone era; a camp built to be minimally intrusive, while combining the modern day luxuries of any 5-star boutique hotel. Set around natural fresh water springs within 35 acres of pure untouched wilderness, Finch Hattons is surrounded by views of Mt Kilimanjaro and the magnificent Chyulu Hills. Share a magical experience and connection, unique to Tsavo, so that it will always echo within you.

Kitengela Glass

Catching Light & Touching Fire : Located in a planetarium dome at the edge of the Nairobi National Park, Kitengela Glass is recognised for catching light and providing guests with a touching fiery experience. This is where one discovers the many ways in which glass indeed enriches life.

SkySafari Kenya – The Ultimate Africa Adventure: The eightday SkySafari captures the allure of Kenya. Marvel at Amboseli’s famed elephants under the majestic peak of Kilimanjaro; lose yourself in the Hollywood romance of Meru, and be awed by the finest wildlife viewing in the world in the Masai Mara. SkySafari guests enjoy the comforts of personalised service, luxurious accommodation, and authentic African safari experiences, while being transported in supreme comfort, safety and convenience aboard SkySafari’s own 9-seater Executive-class Cessna Caravan. SkySafari crafts an African safari adventure into an indulgent and convenient experience of a lifetime.

13 HIDDEN GEMS Follow us on Instagram: @TravelogKe Twitter: @TravelogKe Facebook: Travelog Ke Website: travelog.ke

Tropic Air Safaris Mount Kenya; Morning fly-fishing fun: Tropic Air provides you with aerial views of Kenya’s beautiful landscape, where the sky is the limit. The experiences extend to remote and inaccessible locations presenting you with breathtaking activities like the Morning fly – fishing fun safari and Suguta Valley Day trip. Suguta Valley; Day trip by Helicopter: Encounter desolate salt plains, lava flows, crocodile pools, spectacular scenic valleys, and the iconic rocky feature of Nataruk north west into the Great Rift. The landscape here constantly changes from the white sand dunes to the soda lake of Logipi, and the turquoise waters of Lake Turkana, where Nabuyatom crater is an incredible feature, surrounded by bright green algae pools.

National Museums of Kenya

Tamarind Group Tamarind Dhow Dining Experience: The Tamarind Dhow offers a four-course sumptuous meal served aboard Nawalilkher and Babulkher, two authentic ocean-worthy dhows whilst being serenaded by soft music. The dhow cruises around the creek allowing for breathtaking scenery as you sip on the Dawa house specialty welcome cocktail drink. Tamarind is the only floating sea food restaurant in Mombasa and promises a lasting impression and a memorable experience.

Karen Blixen Museum: Situated at the foot of Ngong’ Hills, Karen Blixen Museum is the only housed museum in Kenya. Formerly owned by Danish author Karen and her Swedish Husband Baron Bror, the museum belongs to a different time period in the history of Kenya and has gained international fame through the release of the Oscar winning film Out of Africa.

Gamewatchers Safaris Let’s Go Travel

Remarkable Kenya With a Humanitarian Touch: Let’s Go Travel showcases Kenya with a Humanitarian Touch with emphasis on community based experiences with properties like Il Ngwesi creating memorable safaris through authentic and client based needs.

Big Cat Safari: There are about 40 sites on the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN) which recognise best practice in protected areas. Africa has two of the enlisted sites and Gamewatchers is the only one in Kenya. Guests relish in the adventure, natural simplicity and solitude of the safari while enjoying their stay in eco-friendly camps that place emphasis on sustainable practices.

14 BEST LIST

One Horizon

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Connect with Kenya – Social Good Kenya Experience: This experience allows you to connect with the local community — Kenyan women, grandmas and families as you immerse yourself in their lives and gain authentic insights into the Kenyan culture that tourists rarely experience.

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Tribe Water Sports Stand Up and Paddle with Dolphins in Watamu: Get up close and observe dolphins in their natural habitat in the beauty of Watamu’s Marine National Park. Stand Up Paddle boarding with dolphins is a completely new experience to Africa, and Watamu is among the unique places where this can be done.

African Forest Lodges The Forest Adventure: Kereita Forest is the undisputed home of adrenaline rush activities. The forest gives its visitors a chance to fly longer, go faster and explore more of what Kenya has to offer.

Victoria Limited Olarro by Hermes Retreat: Olarro Hermes are curators of the extraordinary and guardians of the exceptional, redefining luxury holidays through rich and enlightening encounters. Their experience is versatile and welcomes an individual’s notion of luxury through an array of priceless stays.

The Standard

ULTIMATE ESCAPE

Kenya‘s only tropical rainforest is a bucket-list destination for nature lovers

By Tamara Britten travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

will never forget my first visit to Kakamega Forest. Entering the forest, I stepped into a different world. The denseness of undergrowth, the kaleidoscope of smells, the symphony of noises, the confusion of movement. The air was dank and soaked into my skin. The foliage was alive, shifting and shivering around me. I had never seen so many shades of green, fluid tones all flowing into each other. Gazing up into the distant canopy, it was almost impossible to tell one tree from the next. Buttresses, vines, branches and creepers formed a sinuous green web. It seemed the air itself was singing: birdsong, monkey hoots, tree creaks, animal snorts – a living cacophony. And everything moved. Was that a bird flashing between the leaves? Did a monkey sail through the treetops? Or was it the leaves quivering against distant branches? The forest is the last remnant of the Guineo-Congolian Rainforest. Straddling the equator and stretching the whole way across Africa, this forest originally extended from the Atlantic Ocean through the Congo, Rwanda, Burundi and Kenya. There were some defining factors that characterised this immense forest: it was mostly at an altitude of below 1,000m and had an annual rainfall of between 1,600 to 2,000mm. The vast swathes of forest were tall, dense and lush, with a thick canopy. With these favourable conditions, it is no surprise that the forest hosted a wide variety of species. A wide range of factors, unfortunately, caused the forest to disappear. Political unrest, logging, mining and climate change all played their part. The forest edges retreated, it’s centre unravelled, until like a receding tide it drew back into this lush and enigmatic forest in Western Kenya. Perhaps because of this, Kakamega Forest is home to high numbers of endemic species, giving it critical Rueppell’s robin levels of biodi-

Kakamega Forest Great blue turaco

versity. Of the 380 plants in the forest, there are 60 species of fern and 150 of trees and shrubs. The 170 species of flowering plants include 60 orchids of which nine are endemic to the forest. There are also little but lovely waterfalls, and a couple of lookouts. The creatures that live in the forest are not only rare, but have curious shapes, bizarre features and picturesque names. The potto, a small nocturnal animal with huge eyes and tiny ears, has opposable thumbs it uses for climbing high in the trees. Also resident are the delightfully named giant forest hedgehog, hammer headed fruit bat, clawless otter and De Brazza’s monkey. Cat species include civet, genet and serval – although deep in the speckled shade of the undergrowth, these dappled creatures are almost impossible to spot. The highlight of the forest is undoubtedly the birds: flashes of iridescent colour flitting through

Where to stay: the leaves, disappearing before you can identify them. Of the 367 species recorded here, at least nine are endemic to the forest. So colourful are many of them that their colours are woven into their names: white spotted flufftails, black and white casqued hornbill, blue shouldered robin chat, great blue turaco, as well as the gloriously-named hairy breasted barbet. I wasn’t sure I wanted to run into a black lipped cobra or a rhinoceros horned viper – both ‘attractions’ of the forest – but I couldn’t help being drawn irresistibly into its depths. I walked with a bird guide – highly recommended. His local knowledge proved invaluable in picking out the birds skimming through the brush as we followed paths that wove between the trees. The forest, teeming with species, is alive with impressions. There’s so much to be aware of here it’s hard to take everything in. Kakamega Forest is not for a single visit. This is a place to come back to again and again.

Isukuti Guest House and Udo Bandas and Udo’s camping site Kenya Wildlife Service operates these simple bandas situated at the park headquarters. Isikuti House, a self-catering option, can host three while Udo Banda takes two. The campsite, on the other hand, is set half a kilometre from the park headquarters and can accommodate 40 campers. Isecheno Bandas and Campsite Isecheno Bandas located at the KEEP HQ in the south of the forest accommodate 21 people. The bandas operated by KEEP have a kitchen where guests can cook their own food. Rondo Retreat A saw miller, in 1948, built a house at his wife’s request at the base of what was thought to be the biggest tree in the forest. This charming homestead and cottages called Rondo Retreat is set in colourful sculptured gardens on the forest fringes. The stump of the Elgon Olive still stands today.

Kakamega Forest: The last of its kind

Potto

The Standard

GETAWAY Follow us on Instagram: @TravelogKe Twitter: @TravelogKe Facebook: Travelog Ke Website: travelog.ke

Holiday on a ‘booze budget’ A holiday does not have to be an expensive affair. It can as well be a simple Saturday afternoon outing.

Your itinerary can read something like this:

By Josaya Wasonga travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

enyans cannot help but associate a vacation with crazy costs. Mention the word travel and the sound that comes to most minds is the whirring of a cash register. But a holiday does not have to be an expensive stretch of 40 days and 40 nights. It can as well be a simple, hassle-free Saturday afternoon outing. The destinations can be one or two hours away, via road. You depart in the morning after the first church service, and you’re home the same day in time for the prime time news. Kereita Forest located in Kimende, off the Nairobi-Nakuru highway some 55-minute drive from Nairobi’s CBD is one of those haunts that you can visit with your gang on a ‘booze budget’. The best bit is that the short holiday will leave you with a healthy hangover!

Different strokes for different folks Kereita Forest isn’t just for dyed-inthe-wool adrenalin junkies. It has oodles of aces up its sleeves for all and sundry. Kereita is ideal for team building groups — (I saw a couple) — who’ve traded their suits and ties for sneakers and t-shirts. It’s for lovers who want a simple space to have fun — and prove that dates need not necessarily be fancy affairs. It’s for families — or families and friends — who want to hang out together or hold get-togethers, whilst doing stuff that will further strengthen those ties that bind. It’s for children — like the excited group I saw — who have switched off their gizmos and switched on their nature exploration sides. It’s for ordinary folk — such as Godwin “Kariz” Kariuki — who seems

not t o give a hoot about h o l i d ay i n g , but inwardly are dying to take a break. It’s for chama mamas who want to break the monotony of meeting in each others’ homes and, for a change, try wanderlust. It’s for church youth groups that desire to have clean Christian fun, in a clean fun environment, which doesn’t make them feel like they’re comprising their faith. Long story short? At Kereita, it’s different strokes for different folks. How to get maximum bang from ‘booze bucks’ There are some destinations one can visit solo. But not Kereita; certainly not Kereita. This is one of those places that have you calling all your pals, “Board the nearest chopper and tell the pilot to floor it. I’ll pay.” To have a memorable experience at Kereita, it’s best if you are at least two people. The more, the merrier. Kariz, our local nyama choma griller-in-chief swore that he would tag along next time round — not to serve his specialty goat ribs — but to get some R&R. If you want to have a unique experience at Kereita, divide yourselves into two teams, and let the fun and games begin.

In the morning, start with cycling when you still have energy. Limuru has the crispy clean air that is therapeutic for your lungs. Besides, the cool weather cycling will help drop all those extra calories you got from Kariz’s chow. Choose one of the cycling trails and have instructors referee the competition. Do the same for the next activity — horse riding. After these two activities, take a tea break. The canteen has floor-to-ceiling glass windows, which allow your eyes to feast on the spectacular views of the forest. If the weather allows, grab a bite while sitting on the deck right outside the canteen. It’s the front row seat to a milliondollar live nature film. After you have rested and refreshed, take on the zip line. This should get more interesting. Zip lining is the closest thing to flying without wings. You are allowed to scream your head off while on the zip line, if that’s what floats your boat. Psychiatrists say that primal screams are balm for mental health so visit Kereita and save the cheddar you would’ve otherwise coughed up to a shrink. After you have glided over the forest roof and let out ear-piercing screams, break for lunch, shoot the breeze, or have teams’ pep talk. Don’t touch alcohol. The afternoon’s shooting games (archery and paint pall) need clear sober heads. You don’t want to shoot yourself in the foot or your teammates in the back. However, you can do what a canteen waiter proposed to us. Raise the stakes. Bet a bottle of champagne. At the end of the day, the winning team bags the bubbly. Deal? Deal. If you still have some time left, try your hand at fly fishing and return to Mama Watoto the way a real Baba Watoto is supposed to; bearing fresh food that he personally caught. That’s how you get maximum bang for your “booze bucks”, and still return home with lots of change in your pocket.

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WELLNESS Follow us on Instagram: @TravelogKe Twitter: @TravelogKe Facebook: Travelog Ke Website: travelog.ke

Take a bow and aim traditional archery from a Samburu warrior’s perspective. The bush craft instructor at Rift Valley Adventures goes on to explain the first time he picked up a re-curved bow* and started to learn about the sport of archery. “Traditional African bows were used for hunting or as a weapon during clashes with other tribes. It seemed odd that I was now using bows for fun and sport! Modern bows emphasise safety and are heavier with light arrows, unlike the traditional bow that is light ,and paired with heavy arrowheads, help to give weight. This took a while to get used to. A recurve bow stores more energy and delivers energy more efficiently than the equivalent straightlimbed bow, giving more speed to the arrow. With modern archery you have to pull right back — you’re much more static. There are a lot of marksmanship points concerning elbow and stance... a traditional bow is much faster and you feel you know when you’re on target, rather than going through a check list of points.” But did you know that archery is not only a fun activity or a competitive sport but is also a form of wellness? It is said that by playing it, the sport assists in attaining the complete state of physitravelog@standardmedia.co.ke cal, mental, as well as social well-being. According to Gad Githinji, an archer and trainer with the Serena Hotels, the sport improves focus, attention skills y traditional and improves patience. A person shootbow is made of ing well can stay for hours without Lauwuo wood blinking and as much as the sport is as it bends sociable, when you are playing, it’s just when you pull you and the bow. By staying calm under back the strings. Our arrows are pressure, the archer is able to manage straight olive sticks, with arrowtheir concentration, nervousness as well heads made from flattened nails. Our as breathing. This is a perfect time for strings are made of dried ligaments internal meditation. attached by cows hide. I made my “The sport is a discipline and is reown bow and arrow at age 10 and garded as one of the higher martial arts used it to protect my father’s goats…” — kyudo, which is Japanese for ‘the way This is Francis of the bow’. It Involves 85 per cent Leruso’s account while comparing mental ability and 15 modern and per cent prowess,” he explains. The main health benefit of the sport is building the upper body strength. The steps needed to attain a great shot all combine to form a highprecision routine that the archer needs to ingrain in their muscle JI IN TH GI D GA RUCTOR, memory as well ARCHERY INST as subconscious.

Did you know that archery is not only a fun activity or a competitive sport but is also a form of wellness?

By Travel Buff

“M

Rules of sport This is how the game is played. Depending on the type of round, an archer shoots either three or six per every end. Thereafter, the competitor walks to the target to score and retrieve their arrows. For an indoor competition, the game usually finalises with 20 ends of three arrows. Each archer has a set limit where they can shoot their arrows. “Because of winter, the game is played indoors in European countries. Unlike other games like football, one can play it throughout the year,” Githinji says. The game is also addictive as it is simple to learn yet hard to perfect. It’s a social sport. People from all lifestyles can enjoy the game. This includes children as young as six and individuals as old as 80. This is because much emphasis is placed on teamwork and in some cases, the great tour-

A lot happens within just a short time and as a result, the movements automatically become instinctive. The arm muscles are worked and in turn, those in the chest, shoulders and back are strengthened. By pulling the string on the bow, one has similar stress on the muscles, which has the same effect as weight lifting. The correct and continuous repetition of this movement strengthens these tissues. “In this sport, you use muscles that you didn’t know you had. One also gets to improve their balance and hand-eye coordination, skills required for one to be successful in the sport,” he says. Githinji says archery is about more than just physical health; there is a mental health element as well. Furthermore, archery is a stress reliever and it assists with concentration.

naments comprises of a large group of participants. Kenya Archery Association is where all persons can be introduced to the sport and progress to international competition level. Places where one can enjoy the sport include Ngong Hills, Rolfs place at Ongata Rongai, East Africa Bow Sports in Karen, Lake Elementaita Serena, Kereita Forest and many others. For beginners and those interested, the Kenya Archery Association provides limited beginner bows but you have to purchase six arrows for your use. * (A recurve bow is a bow with limbs that curve away from the archer when unstrung. A recurve bow stores more energy and delivers energy more efficiently than the equivalent straightlimbed bow, giving a greater amount of energy and speed to the arrow).

One is able to block out distractions as focus is a requirement for one to be a great archer. “In their shot routine, archers learn to maintain focus and also avoid interruptions such as distance, wind, noise and their competitors in order to attain the perfect arrow. That control is beneficial for other areas of life, too.” There is no limit to age and the sport can be practised by all gender or ability. While physically drawing a bow does expend energy, so does walking to the target end on end to collect arrows. It has successfully been used to assist children with their grades as it helps bring focus on their schoolwork especially for parents who desire their children to be engaged in activities other than video games. It can also be played by a person with a disability and confined to wheelchair.

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FAMILY CORNER Follow us on Instagram: @TravelogKe Twitter: @TravelogKe Facebook: Travelog Ke Website: travelog.ke

Samawati Lakeside Cottages next to Lake Ol’bollosat Sitatunga antelope at Saiwa Swamp National Park

5 underrated places you should visit this year Peel back the layers and discover Kenya is more than just safaris and beaches By Ivy Waridi travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

here are known sites that have kept the tourism spotlight shining for a long time. However, as the tourism sector continues to diversify and target other circuits, we realise that there’s more to what has been sold to us. The beauty of Kenya is in layers, and as you peel through them, you learn that there is more than just safaris and beaches.

As a traveller, you want to come face to face with both the known and the unknown. The list below highlights a few places that should be on your radar. SAIWA SWAMP NATIONAL PARK This undiscovered spot is the smallest national park in Kenya, but it is also one of the best places to visit if you are a nature lover. The park is located near Kitale in Trans Nzoia County. It is also the sanctuary to the rare and endangered semi-aquatic Sitatunga antelope. This forested paradise is home to exotic flowers, trees and birds. You can also find the rare De Brazza monkey. For accommodation, you will find campsites in the park or the surrounding area. Entry into the park is Sh300 for adults and Sh125 for children.

SAMATIAN ISLAND Would you like an exclusive island getaway with scenic views? Then Samatian Island is what you need. This private island located on Lake Baringo is a relatively small island, but will be exclusively yours during your stay. You can enjoy activities such as boat rides, birdwatching, fishing, nature walks and sundowners at the beach. The facility has four ensuite thatched rooms ideal for four couples. The rates are Sh6,000 per person on a self-catering basis. JUMBA RUINS Also known as Jumba la Mtwana, this historical site is found in the buzzing town of Mtwapa. The 14th century ruins are located close to the beach where you can learn some history of trade in the era. At Jumba Ruins you will find four

mosques, a tomb and four houses that have stood the test of time. At the end of the trail at Jumba ruins is the Monsoon restaurant, a gorgeous beachfront eatery. If you are a seafood lover, then this will be heaven for you. This is an alternative day out for you while in Mombasa. SUGUTA VALLEY The Suguta Valley also referred to as the Suguta Mudflats is located south of Lake Turkana. It is an extraordinary landscape that is part of the charm of Northern Kenya. Many people know it as the valley of death, but that narrative is continuously changing. With temperatures that can soar up to 50° Celsius, this excursion is suitable for the risk-takers and thrill-seekers. Catch a glimpse of the Suguta dunes and spectacular views of the rock craters. The beauty of this area is in the remoteness and how untouched it is. SAMAWATI LAKESIDE COTTAGES The Samawati Lakeside Cottages is a family-owned property located on the shores of the only natural lakes in central Kenya, Lake Ol’bolossat in Nyandarua County. The facility has one large villa and three rustic value cottages that are fully furnished. You can enjoy horseback riding and boat tours while staying at the facility. Visit Samawati Lakeside Cottages and see what Nyandarua County has to offer.

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FAMILY CORNER Follow us on Instagram: @TravelogKe Twitter: @TravelogKe Facebook: Travelog Ke Website: travelog.ke

Mind your manners at

the dinner table Make the world a nicer place with these simple social etiquette gestures and good manners.

By Jimmy Mwangi travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

recently attended a diplomatic dinner; the black-tie kind event that includes a lengthy course menu with the choicest seasonal delicacies and fine wines. Most first-timers to such an elaborate layout would understandably be nervous to avoid any dining faux pas. The gentleman in a jumper was visibly most uncomfortable as he stuck out from the crowd resplendent in penguin suits. I, too, fumbled on a few occasions prompting a refresher reflection on table etiquette. The word etiquette is French for “label” or “tag”, first used in the English language from around the mid-18th century. These rules became prevalent in the French and British court. Etiquette was a way to showcase superiority in the art

of entertaining and display of good manners. Even presently as it was then, having good manners and being polite is a positive personal trait and will leave the impression in any social circles that you are a good and well-behaved person with the right attitudes. If you want to be the well-behaved person that everyone will admire, here are a few tips to get you through: · The rule of thumb in party wear? When in doubt, it is better to dress down (slightly) than up. Or, better yet, do some checking. Ask your hosts, or another guest, to clarify the type of clothing and degree of formality for the upcoming occasion. · If a specific time is given, arrive at the time stated, or shortly thereafter, never early. ·Do not walk with a cocktail plate and drink in your hands. You should hold one or the other to free your hands for greetings. Also never take more than one or two pieces of hors

d’oeuvres at a time; it is impolite. ·In a restaurant, the guest of honour should sit in the best seat at the table. Usually that is one with the back of the chair to the wall. Once the guest of honour’s seat is determined, the host should sit to her left. Other people are then offered seats around the table. Generally, the oldest or most important man sits on the right of hostess and the second most important man sits left of hostess. ·At a small table of only two to four people, wait until everyone else has been served before starting to eat. At a formal or business meal, you should either wait until everyone is served to start, or begin when the host asks you to. ·The first toast given during a dinner is normally offered at the beginning of the meal.

Traditionally, it is offered by the host as a welcome to guests. Toasts offered by others start during the dessert course. When toasted, the “toastee” does not stand, nor do they drink to themselves. All the recipients need do is sit and smile appreciatively. Once the toast is finished, the toastee simply acknowledges the toast with a “thank you.” They may then stand and raise their own glass to propose a toast to the host or anyone else they might want to to honour. ·When dinner is announced, wait until the hostess moves toward the door, then rise. Women should not serve themselves. ·To help navigate table turf, memorise two simple rules: Your glasses are on the right; your bread plate is on the left. If you forget, think BMW, for “bread, meal, water”— the leftto-right order of items when you’re seated at your place. ·Use the right utensils starting from the outside and working your way in toward the plate as the meal progresses. Usually the big fork is for the entrée; the big spoon, for the soup. Any utensils placed horizontally above your plate are meant for dessert. When in doubt, the host and hostess should be your guides. Use whatever they are using.

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<<CONTINUED FROM PG 19 ·When passing food, always remember to pass to the right (if the item is not being passed to a specific person). One diner either holds the dish as the next diner takes some food, or he hands it to the person, who then serves herself. Any heavy or awkward dishes are put on the table with each pass. Always pass the salt and pepper together. ·If the loaf is not cut, cut a few pieces, offer them to the person to your left, and then pass the basket to your right. Do not touch the loaf with your fingers, instead use the cloth in the bread basket as a buffer to steady the bread as you slice it. Place the bread and butter on your butter plate — yours is on your left — then break off a bitesized piece of bread, put a little butter on it, and eat it. ·The more formal the meal and setting, the less inclined you should be to eat with the utensils you were born with. There is, however, a lengthy list of acceptable finger foods: bread, crisp bacon, pizza, hors d’oeuvres, corn on the cob, asparagus (provided it is cooked al dente and is not dripping with sauce), fried chicken (though perhaps not the breast), French fries (unless you are eating the rest of the meal with a knife and fork), and tacos (except for any filling that falls out, which you should re-

FIRST SHOT

trieve with a fork). Of course, if your host is using a fork, you should do the same. ·Hold the soup spoon by resting the end of the handle on your middle finger, with your thumb on top. Dip the spoon sideways at the near edge of the bowl, then skim away from you. Sip from the side of the spoon. To retrieve the last spoonful of soup, slightly tip the bowl away from you. ·Kindly note how you leave your knife and fork on your plate when taking a break or are finished eating. Once a utensil has been sullied, it never goes back on the table. When you’re taking a break, rest your fork and knife entirely on the plate. When you’re finished, place them diagonally on the plate, side by side, with the handles at four o’clock. The knife blade should face the center of the plate, not point out toward another guest. ·To signal dinner is concluded, the hostess catches the eye of the host, lays her napkin on the table, and suggests that everyone go into another room for coffee and after-dinner drinks. The hostess rises from her chair. When it’s time to leave, rather than detain one’s host with a lengthy good-bye,

· Placing the napkin in your lap: Place the napkin in your lap immediately upon sitting. If there is a host or hostess, wait for him or her to take their napkin off the table and place it in his or her lap. (An exception to this rule is buffet-style meals, where you should unfold your napkin when you start eating). Unfold your napkin in one smooth motion without “snapping” or “shaking” it open. The size determines how you unfold a napkin in your lap. Large napkins are unfolded halfway. Smaller napkins are unfolded completely and cover the lap fully. Refrain from tucking a napkin into your collar, between grasp the napkin in the centhe buttons of your shirt, or tre, pull it through the ring, in your belt. and lay it on the table with the point facing the centre of · Using the napkin: Use the table. your napkin frequently during the meal to blot or pat, not wipe, your lips. Blot your lips before taking a drink of your beverage. · Napkin Rings: If a napkin ring is present, after removing your napkin, place the ring to the top-left of the setting. At the end of the meal,

· Temporarily leaving the table: When leaving the table temporarily, put your napkin on your chair. If the chair is upholstered, place the napkin soiled side up. ·Placing the napkin at the meal’s end: The napkin

is loosely folded at the end of the meal. If a plate is in the centre of your place setting, when leaving the table lay the napkin to the left of the plate. If the centre of your place setting is empty, the napkin is laid in the middle of the place setting. Leave your napkin in loose folds that keep soiled parts hidden. ·If after-dinner coffee is served at the table, the napkin remains on the lap.

with Alex Kavita

An American classic

make the departure brief but cordial. NAPKIN GUIDE

ne of the most consumed spirits in the United States of America is a bourbon. Majorly made from corn and other grains, bourbon is matured in first time oak. It is an aromatic beverage with big aromas of vanilla and spice. It is delicious and can be mixed with soda or enjoyed on the rocks. I have met an American or two who have shared a long list of must try bourbons. My go to is Bulliet Bourbon. Family name yes; named after Augustus Bulleit. We are told of a story where he disappeared while taking the bourbon to market – never to be seen again! Fast forward to the 80s when his descendant Tom Bulliet quit his job as a lawyer to fulfil his great granddad’s destiny of making a very unique bourbon. It took about seven years of experimentation before he got it right and put it out to market. Bulleit Boubon is unique because it has a high rye content. Grains used matter and

bring about different character in spirits. The mandatory corn brings about sweeter elements in bourbon while the rye offsets that. The combination brings an outstanding lesser sweet finish. I prefer my Bulliet with water although there are very many other ways to enjoy it. One of them is this cocktail recipe bound to jolt your year on a high note.

The writer is a seven-time award winning bartender currently working as a brand/ambassador educator for the luxury

Ingredients: •160ml Bulleit Bourbon •15 ml sugar syrup (made by mixing hot water and sugar in the ratio of 1:1) •Eight dashes angostura bitters •Orange peel

Method: Stir all ingredients until perfect dilution. Strain into a iced rocks glass. Zest the orange on top of the finished drink and enjoy. Garnish: Orange twist Glass: Whiskey – also known as old fashioned glass.

The Standard

MEET THE CHEF

Meet Bond, Taste from the chef John Bond

real ‘MVPs’

Inspired by his mother‘s cooking, this pastry chef at Heroes Restaurant is indeed a legend By Travel Buff travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

Where did your passion for cooking all begin? I was inspired by my mother’s cooking from an early age and spent a lot of time learning and reproducing her recipes. That’s how I knew that this was the course I would follow for the rest of my life. Out of curiosity, is Bond your real name? Yes. I am named after my grandfather John Bond, who was an Italian prisoner of war. You have worked at some of the world’s acclaimed restaurants. What were some of the lessons you learnt? I, for one year and four months, studied pastry and chocolate arts in Switzerland. I was also in Sweden at a Michelin-star restaurant called Faviken run by Chef Magnus Nilsson between 2008 and 2019. The food served at the restaurant was localised to the estates around the restaurant, with only a handful of exceptions. My experience in Sweden was very enlightening mainly because the restaurant located in a very remote area in the north of Sweden drew droves of diners from all over the world. It was a privilege to work under Chef Magnus. He is a focused man who enjoys working with the best locally available ingredients and uses his own creativity to turn them into delicious cuisines. I also learnt how to use old and modern techniques such as preserving produce that is in abundance in a specific season by pickling, smoking or drying. (Note that Chef Magnus closed shop in May to focus on family). How different is the culinary industry in Switzerland from that in Kenya? The industry is very developed and the creativity demonstrated is amazing. Their training programmes focus a lot on emerging techniques and immaculate presentation using produce that is locally available and of the best quality. Working with people who are extremely passionate about their trade really inspired me. It provided me with

the necessary information in terms of recipe d e ve l o p m e n t , menu development and techniques required to create and execute products in a level of quality I was not familiar with. In addition, it taught me a lot about discipline and definitely helped sharpen my skills. In Kenya, the culinary industry is not respected or viewed as a valuable industry. On the contrary, Switzerland really markets its hospitality and culinary industries on a global scale with a lot of pride. There is also proper infrastructure and access to facilities or organisations that provide a good foundation for young chefs to nurture their passion. It is, however, not fair to compare Kenya to Switzerland mainly because the latter has had more time to develop and build their service industry. I do believe, however,

Clockwise: 1. Sweden’s Faviken restaurant. 2&3. Dishes prepared at the restaurant. 4. Faviken’s Head Chef, Magnus Nilson. 5. Chef John Bond. [Courtesy]

that we have a lot of potential and are on our way there.

I would say butter, fresh fruit and vegetables.

What inspires your creativity in the kitchen? I get a lot of inspiration from my travels and the ingredients available. Your kitchen must have?

Do you have a guilty pleasure? Whole grain sourdough bread slathered with butter and a pinch of salt and a mixed berry crumble with lemon zest, oats, sunflower seeds and linseeds.

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DID YOU KNOW?

African countries you can travel to without a visa By Travelog Writer travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

Did you know that you can travel around the continent without endorsement?

ate 2018, the African Development Bank (AfDB) and the African Union Commission (AUC) released the 2019 Africa Visa Openness Index – now in its fourth edition. The Africa Visa Openness Index measures how open African countries are in terms of visas by looking at what they ask of citizens from other countries in Africa when they travel. It aims to show at a glance which countries are facilitating travel for citizens of other countries and how; whether they allow people to travel to their country without a visa, if travellers can get a visa on arrival in the country, or if visitors need to get a visa before travel.

39%

Data on visa openness was collected in June and July 2019. The primary source of information was from official country websites and the International Air Transport Association (IATA). On this ranking, Kenya was ranked 13 out 54 countries surveyed. Seychelles and Benin tied in first position. For your benefit, we highlight the African countries Kenyans can travel to without a visa, visa openness by category: no visa, visa on arrival, visa required and countries offering e-visa services. Source: www.visaopenness.org

No visa required

eVisas The number of countries offering eVisas increased by 31 per cent in 2019, with 21 countries now hosting an online platform. Two-thirds of countries that offer eVisas also made the most progress on visa openness since 2016, with the majority having recently introduced the system. •21 African countries out of 54 (39 per cent) offer eVisas (up from 16 in 2018, 13 in 2017, and nine in 2016). •Nine out of the top 20 countries offer eVisas.

Visa on arrival

Visa required

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ABROAD

Bitten by the St Petersburg bug By Ellen Wanjiru travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

A visit to the home of worldrenowned Salvador Dali Museum will leave you asking for more

reathtaking does not even begin to describe the incredibly beautiful scenery before my eyes. My first vision of St Petersburg in Florida was nothing I had expected. I fell in love with the scenic beauty and couldn’t wait to see the rest of it. St Petersburg is located between the Gulf of Mexico and Tampa Bay. The clean blue waters of the Atlantic Ocean stretched as far as the eye could see dotted with innu-

merable beautiful yachts. Oh, it was hard to miss the helipad, for the locals also own private helicopters and planes. Indeed, this is an area inhabited by the wealthy. Just how wealthy? Our designated captain for the mandatory boat cruise, at least for visitors here, told us the palatial seaside homes lining the ocean are owned by politicians, international celebrities, church leaders and yes, he whispers, there is the possibility that there are other owners who may not necessarily be engaged in businesses considered to be above board. And not all of these are Americans. The captain said many of the seaside homeowners live outside Florida, even outside the US, and usually visit in December for the festive season. Florida is blessed with pleasant weather all year and is usually warm even when other states and the entire region is experiencing winter. In St Petersburg, the summers are long and hot and the winters short, cool and windy. Over the course of the year, the temperatures typically vary from 13.3 degrees celsius to 31.6 degrees celsius and is rarely below 7.7 degrees celsius. On average, there are 248 sunny days per year in St Petersburg. It does snow in the area but it is rare. The last time it snowed here was 42 years ago. According to www.bestplaces.

The writer in the company of other tourists tour St Petersburg, Florida.

net, the average income of a St Petersburg resident is Sh2,867,000). The US average is Sh2,855,500. I found the people to be particularly friendly. Having visited another part of the US before and encountered a different environment, this was also a pleasant surprise. The first time a random local smiled at me, greeting me as they walked past on the street, I thought it would be an exception. It wasn’t. Most of the people I saw in St Petersburg were elderly and white. It appeared to be a popular area for pensioners, probably because of the pleasant weather all year round. And life appeared

to be fairly comfortable for them. The overall median age here is documented as 42.6 years, 41.1 years for males and 44.1 years for females. There are over five million people living in St Petersburg. Security is tight with regular patrols on both land and sea. We walked across the city centre at all hours and felt safe. And yet, according to www. neighbourhoodscout.com, St Petersburg is documented as one of the areas with the highest crime rates in the US, with a crime rate of 50 per 1, 000 residents. www.tripadvisor.co.uk, how-

ever, corroborates my position and says travelling to St Petersburg is generally safe and tourists are unlikely to be victims of crime, apart from petty theft. We were lucky to have been booked into a hotel that was so near the beach. My daily view was this stretch of water and being beside the local Yatch Club, we were treated to the boats and other toys of the extremely wealthy. It felt like we were extras in a movie scene! St Petersburg is said to be relatively cheaper than some major European cities when it comes to sightseeing, nightlife and eating out. On average, travellers tend to spend around Sh1,800 on food per day. Moreover, being a coastal city, seafood is plenty and served fresh in most of the food joints — from fancy and pricy restaurants and hotels, which are certainly not in short supply, to your basic fast food joints. From what I could tell, the systems run efficiently; we certainly didn’t notice or experience anything to the contrary. My first visit to the US was to Atlanta, Georgia. While it was nice, my second visit certainly left a better impression. I could very well see myself fitting comfortably into the lifestyle of the populace here. Early morning or early evening walks along the bay with a pet and a loved one in tow, St Petersburg was very good to me and whether for work or leisure, I will certainly return to this lovely city.

The Standard

Our lunatic odyssey

By Peter Muiruri travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

How one man’s perpetual thirst for adventure moved 17 Kenyans to make a 28day expedition across some of the most treacherous landscapes in Africa

Jagi Gakunju.

agi Gakunju may not come across as your regular traveller. He was a corporate honcho for years and hobnobbed with the who’s who in business circles, locally and abroad. Looks, though, can be deceiving. Gakunju is an ardent conservationist and arguably one of Kenya’s best-travelled individuals. And his travels, usually off the beaten path, have brought him close to the edge of life as he braved obstacles that would make any novice voyager shudder. About 30 years ago, Gakunju embarked on what looked like an illadvised travel plan. After watching the documentary, Okavango: Jewel of the Kalahari with some friends, the thought of visiting the world-renowned wetland in Botswana came to mind. His hope was that members of Uvumbuzi Club, an adventure outfit he had helped form years earlier, would buy into his idea. None had ever undertaken such a feat before. They had every reason to be apprehensive. Okavango is not your ordinary holiday destination. It is located in one of the most inhospitable places on the planet – the Kalahari Desert – where tsetse flies, snakes, lions, elephants and buffaloes abound. Owing to its remoteness, access to the delta is limited. Few have managed to tame this wild side of Africa, but Gakunju and his group, using rudimentary forms of transport, were determined to try. Recently, I met up with Gakunju in his Kilimani home in Nairobi where he reminisced about his “crazy” odyssey.

The Okavango Delta hosts a wildlife spectacle made famous by the 1974 documentary, Animals are Beautiful People where wild animals stagger after bingeing on the fermenting fruits of the marula tree. He is an avid reader going by his sitting room that looks like a mini library. A pair of mountain bikes perch on the balcony, revealing his love for riding. But travelling, he tells me, is his first love. “After watching the documentary at the National Museums of Kenya, I told the group we could go to Okavango by road.” They were startled. Their meagre resources could only allow for hitchhiking and a bit of public transport. The group would largely be at the mercy of well-intentioned motorists in a number of African countries that spoke strange dialects. “Who will go with me?” he asked. “I expected perhaps two ‘fools’ to raise their hands in agreement.” Instead, 17 did. “They all thought I knew Arusha the whole region and had everything lined up, yet I had no clue how to get to Okavango.” On the morning of Sunday, October 1, 1989, five embarked on the first leg of the trip in a Namanga-bound ma-

tatu from where they crossed over to Arusha, Tanzania. The rest caught up with the initial group in Tanzania. The challenges of the journey began to unfold in Tanzania. Kenyans travelling out of the country had to declare their currency. Some in the group were caught up in this financial crossfire. “Any discrepancy between what was in your declaration forms and the actual cash could land you in jail – and in a foreign country at that,” declares Gakunju. And so the intrepid group of 17 began their arduous, 28-day odyssey to the unknown. From Arusha, the group boarded a Dar-es-Salaam-bound bus that looked comfortable and mechanically sound but was steered by a driver who appeared to have a personal vendetta with the potholes. “It almost seemed that he was working hard not to miss any regardless of which side of the road it lay,” Gakunju reminisces. From Dar, the team hopped on to Tazara, or the Tanzania-Zambia Rail-

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ABROAD

to the Okavango delta Highlights of the Uvumbuzi Club’s 1989 voyage. [Photos, Courtesy]

ioned and they hoped that Lusaka Victoria the ride would be as well. Falls to outmanoeuvre them. “The novelty here was the Officials at the Botswana individual coach’s rebelliousborder post were horrified to see a ness in trying to leave the rest of group of foreigners coming from the the train and go its own way. But direction of the forest. discipline was enforced and the “This is a national park. There are train reached its destination in one wild animals, including lions here!” piece.” an army guy screamed, adding that Gakunju says the short journey the park was also a security zone and from Maramba to the triplethe team could have died anytime decked MV Makumbi in the from crossfire. Zambezi was in limousines But by the grace of locals, their organised by ‘Jane-Wai’ or pickup trucks, rickety buses and lorJane Waithira Mwangi. way. The 1,860-kilometre ries ferrying construction materials, Dar-es-Salaam “How she did it, we still line terminates at the Zamthe team reached the smaller towns don’t know,” he recalls. Standbian town of Kapiri Mposhi. of Kasane, Nata and Maun – the edge ing by the awe-inspiring After being contained in the of the delta. Their quarry – the OkaMosi-O-Tunya (smoke that train for close to 50 hours (where vango – lay before them. Here, the thunders) was one of the trip’s key their food rations ran out), the Okavango River, after its 1, 600-kilohighlights. The group even trekked team walked the few kilometres to metre journey from Angola, gives up to view Victoria Falls from the catch a bus to Lusaka. its watery deposit to a hungry and Zimbabwean side of the border. “We disembarked but had no dry patch of the Botswana landscape. From Maramba, the team emsense of direction and stood on the Its soggy deposits have propabarked on what was to become wrong side of the road until a local gated one of the world’s best-known the most eventful part of the trip realised our folly and directed us wildlife spectacles, made famous by – stepping over to Botswana via to the right side,” says Gakunju. the Kazungula Channel. The ferry The three-hour journey to Lusacrosses through the Caprivi Strip, ka was uneventful, save for the fact another geographical error (again that the bus had standing room carved by British and German only. Once inside, the tired Kencolonial powers). At some point yans found every reason to convert during the crossing, one sees four the shoulders of their Zambian countries: Zambia, Namibia, Bot‘friends’ into pillows as they dozed swana and Zimbabwe. their fatigue off. Some kind souls To get to the Botswana border would offer them seats. post after this crossing, the group From Lusaka, the voyagers took had to walk for close to four hours the Zambian train to Maramba through the African jungle, with (Livingstone) from where they luggage to boot. Along the way, hoped to catch a sea vessel and they spotted some elephants in the cruise along the mighty Zambezi. distance and somehow managed The train’s seats were well cush-

the 1974 documentary, Animals are Beautiful People where wild animals stagger after bingeing on the fermenting fruits of the marula tree. Five countries, 18 immigration and border posts and 10,000 kilometres of wild Africa, the team did it. In the words of the 17 musketeers, “Old bones shook, stirred, jerked and jingled in the four weeks of October 1989.” “I was naïve to pull off such a thing. I can’t even dream of it now,” says Gakunju, as we enjoy another cup of tea and homemade mandazi.

Okavango

The Standard

BUDGET PICKS

The spirit of the Mara comes alive Traveller‘s first-hand encounter with the majesty of wildlife at the Maasai Mara

By Ellen Wanjiru travelog@standardmedia.coke

upple, glossy, regal. And also, lean and defined. Deceptively meek but undoubtedly powerful. Eyes bright and piercing. He lay there, in all his majesty. The king of the jungle. Cool, calm and collected. Slowly turning this way, and then that way. In lazy fashion, surveying the multitude of humanity before him. The tourists, both

local and foreign. Having come from far and wide, preciously for this moment. To see him with their own eyes. Tension, excitement, fear. A cocktail of emotions that did not overshadow the intense realisation and acknowledgement that this was, indeed, a unique opportunity. Granted, the lion reigns in the Maasai Mara and it would be a surprise if anyone left without seeing at least one. In this case, however, there were prides of up to 10 lions. The main man lay a short distance from the rest, as the cubs played among themselves, occasionally hopping onto their mummies and rubbing against the warmth and softness of her coat before skipping back to their buddies. It was a sight to behold. And none of the onlookers wanted to break the spell of the magic unfolding before their eyes. Mzee Simba remained unmoved by the flurry of activity before him, as cameras clicked away. Everyone wanted to

capture that magnificent moment and take as many pictures as possible. It was indeed a once in a lifetime opportunity. Many were at the Maasai Mara for the first and possibly only time in their lives, so this moment was very special to them. Come the following day, were besides ourselves with even more excitement, if that were possible, when we encountered yet another pride of lions. Or was it the same one? In this particular one, two lionesses were strategically positioned away from the rest. There was a third one, but she wasn’t easily visible, as she lay in the dry, sun-scorched grass. Her fur blending very well with the environment. Were it not for the eyes, one couldn’t have detected her presence. Those eyes. Darting here and there. Deep, fierce, frightening eyes. Was it possible? That the unfolding scene would afford us the incredible opportunity to witness a lion hunt in real time? The chance of a lifetime? Right before our eyes! The stuff of documentaries and movies. Only seen in carefully produced, top budget and branded documentaries. The stuff of National Geographic and Nat Geo Wild. It would not be a surprise if there were images of dollar signs in the minds of a few of these tourists! Can you imagine what value such footage

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One must see the Mara for themselves to fully appreciate its magic, its attraction, the uniqueness that sets the Maasai Mara National Reserve apart. And why many people return, some annually and not just for the famed great wildebeest migration between June and October. would fetch? Footage of an actual hunt! The unsuspecting zebra and impala grazed away. Oblivious of the dangers lying just a few metres away. The prey itself was a sight to behold. Zebras running into the dozens, huddled together. Their shimmering coats of contrasting black and white, some with a dash of brown. Just beautiful. The predators craning their necks, calculating. There was no risk for the lionesses really. But that did not affect their precision and focus. It was not clear why the anticipated action was taking so long. Couldn’t the lionesses just attack? They couldn’t have been afraid of the herbivorous animals, could they? And yet, they didn’t. They seemed to be engaged in a silent, secret form of communication among themselves. A language that did not require words, or even sound. It was dead silent in the expansive wilderness. It was as if time had stopped. Frozen in the Maasai Mara. In the blister-

ing heat, even though it was only 7am. The Mara rises early. The animals remain active that early before the temperatures slow them down, the lethal predators retreating deeper into the thick thickets and blending with the vegetation. Hibernating until evening when the sun is less harsh and well into the night when they come alive again.

Roaming the vast terrain, hunting, eating, drinking water and generally just living their best lives. Well, the anticipated great hunt was not to be! It didn’t happen. The zebras calmly strolled away. Occasionally, stopping very briefly to graze. And in utter disbelief, we watched as the lionesses stared at their main meal casually walk-

ing away. It remains unclear how and more importantly, why they let it happen! Maybe they were not really hungry. Wild animals hunt for food, right? So, maybe they didn’t see the need to attack the prey simply to let the food go to waste! No one really knows. They could at least have roared into the wilderness, that loud and authoritative roar that many can only imagine. It would probably have served as a consolation! Well, that didn’t happen either. So with the excitement, a new emotion crept in that day. Disappointment. And also annoyance. At the lionesses mostly. For allowing the loss of an opportunity to witness an incredible event. There is more to the Mara than the lions. And the eighth wonder of the world does not disappoint. From the other Big Five – leopard, rhinoceros, elephant and buffalo. To the smaller animals – hyena, gazelle, impala. The graceful giraffe and the hippos are among the 100 species of wild animals in the Maasai Mara. And hundreds of bird species. There are over 470 species of birds recorded in the Mara, which includes an impressive 46 different birds of prey. And even if there were no animals in the national park, one is overwhelmed by by the sheer size of the Mara. One must see the Mara for themselves to fully appreciate its magic, its attraction, the uniqueness that sets the Maasai Mara National Reserve apart. And why many people return, some annually and not just for the famed great wildebeest migration between June and October. It is well worth the six hours of of road travel – unless you can afford the 45-minute flight to the Mara.

28 BUDGET BREAKS

Vihiga: The next big small thing By Eric Lungai travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

Looking for an offthe-beaten-track destination? Then why not take visit one of Kenya‘s smallest counties with a knack for producing some of the country‘s best rugby players

ihiga County is the second-smallest county in the country with an area of 563km², beating out

only Lamu. One can access this county (sandwiched by Kakamega to the north, Kisumu to the south, Nandi to the east and Siaya to the west) by air or road. It is located about 360km from the capital city, and only 20km from Kisumu International Airport. The region is hilly and enjoys a fair climate throughout the year. The county has great potential for tourism, with varied sites that include grassy knolls, heritage areas, bird sanctuaries and rock art. The county further has many forests, but notably Kibiri Forest, an extension of Kakamega Rain Forest, where at least nine rare birds can be found. Tiriki Tropical Gardens and Forests in Shamakhokho is managed by Victor Mwanga who takes visitors on a bamboo tour, showing them how

[Eric Lungai]

to plant the grass and value add. There exists a rich culture, with Maragoli festivals observed annually, Tiriki Cultural Circumcisions performed after every five years and the rainmakers of Bunyore. Of note is that this is the county that has produced the cream of Kenya’s rugby players. The legendary footballer Joe Kadenge, who died last year, also called Vihiga home. Here’s what else you can explore within Vihiga. Mungoma Caves Exploration of the county’s natural heritage begins at the ‘beginning’, with a journey to caves believed to be the home of Mulogoli, the founding father of the populous Maragoli sub-ethnic group. While the caves are inhab-

itable in this age, venturing in alone invokes fear and reverence for the man who chose to turn its dark belly into his home. Situated on a stony hill at Lyagidaywa Village in Mungoma Location, the stones that make up the roof of what is considered a shrine by locals looks outright hazardous. To add to its touch-and-go impression, one has to manoeuvre in darkness for more than 100 metres before arriving at the first room. Mulogoli’s Camp (the caves), is organised like a modern house, with seven sizeable rooms underneath the stones. There is the altar (Muvwali) where Mulogoli used to pray, the prophetic drum’s place (Mungoma), the cave where he

29 BUDGET BREAKS Follow us on Instagram: @TravelogKe Twitter: @TravelogKe Facebook: Travelog Ke Website: travelog.ke

[Chrispen Sechere]] First Lady Margaret Kenyatta witnesses the ‘Jesus footprint’ in Gevera Village, Vihiga County.

[Eric Lungai]

slept (Muluhano), the springs (Kidaho) where water is easily accessed, the cemetery (Vilindwa), the arms’ store (Mulisiagalo), and the assembly hall (Muluhya). “Mulogoli, also called Mulaguli to mean prophet, had a special drum for his godly prophecy, Eng’oma, which unfortunately lost its power in 1920 when Machayo, the operator, died. This incident coincided with the invasion of the area by missionaries,” says David Kisia, one of the custodians of the Maragoli culture. It is easy to succumb to fear so the services of an experienced guide to lead you through the maze and assure you of your safety is obligatory. Besides, there are rules that visitors have to adhere to. “One cannot go into the caves where Mulogoli used to live if they have sired twins or they have being involved in immoral vices like adultery,” says Kisia, who inherited the guiding gig from his father. Those who may want to venture in alone will find navigation difficult because it is pitch dark inside. The recommended time to visit is at sunrise because the caves

face the east. It is believed that a huge snake guards the caves, and going in without a guide or with a tainted past may result in considerable harm. As a result, only few elders have had a chance of venturing into the caves. Many women around the place, young and old, have not had an opportunity to go inside the caves, thus only enjoy the view from outside for fear of the unknown. Despite the sweaty affair of conquering the hills to reach the caves, many veteran and aspiring politicians in the region often make a pilgrimage to the caves to receive blessings from their ancestor before they embark on their political journey. Rainmakers of Bunyore Leaving Mungoma Caves, head to a little village located in Ebusiekwe Hills in Emuhaya Constituency. Here, you will have an encounter with the Nganyi, a rainmaker clan. Joseph Kutilo, one of the rainmakers, believes that a woman they married from Banyala wa Ndombi in the neighbouring Kakamega

Sample gold rocks that are crushed, processed and turned into gold.

County bequeathed them the gift of making rain. The elders impress that the area hosts three shrines on an acre of land where rain is made. For a visitor to access the ‘secret’ shrines, however, the elders insist on a sacrificial lamb. The rainmakers descended from the legendary Nganyi, who died in 1918, and the shrines are believed to be graves of successive rainmakers. The elders walk to the shrines facing east late at night (around 11pm to 4am) carrying special herbs and plead with the gods to bring rain so that the area can avoid tragedy. If a breeze blowing to the east follows the prayer then the interpretation is good news of rain; if it blows to the west, it is believed that ancestors have declined the offering and the exercise must be repeated another day. The Kenya Meteorological Department has built a radio station (Anyole FM) next to the rainmakers’ shrines. Footprint of Jesus Located in Matsigulu sub location, Gevera Stone is a striking religious tourism site. It is believed that Jesus stepped on the stone, hence commonly referred by locals as the ‘Foot of Jesus’. Mama Rasoah Kavai, the owner of the farm where the stone is located, says tourists visit the site to pray, with many indigenous churches visiting it often for worship. Visitors, in some instances, carry water from the site that they believe solves their spiritual and marital problems, as well as performs other miracles for the faithful. According to Mama Kavai, a church leader identified only as Peter of the Pentecostal Assemblies of God (PAG) church from Kisa area of Kakamega County discovered the stone in 1965 during a meditation mission in the area. The stone bears footprint marks and imprints of a padlock. Locals say the padlock secures the Ten Commandments given to Moses by God.

Where to Stay

•Sosa Cottages, situated at Gisambai market near Majengo, offers a variety of services. It has villas for large families, executive rooms and single rooms. • The recently opened Enzogu Hotel along the Mbale-Gisambai route offers the best ambience for food and accommodation. The hotel boasts conferencing facilities and is located just outside town for travellers who want a quiet environment. •Broad Park Hotel is in Mbale town. The hotel has 120 executive and deluxe rooms. Conferencing facilities are also available.

They further maintain that the stone has inscriptions, which are fast fading, that are an indication of the end times. Despite the interest it generates, the site faces destruction because of erosion, neglect and human interference. Gold mining Kenya experienced a gold rush in the early 1930s. A large nugget called the Elbon Nugget would be the result of this rush. Vihiga lies in the same belt as Kakamega and hosts its fair share of gold mines located across Viyalo in Sabatia and Muhudu in Hamisi. The chairperson of one of the pits used for mining at Viyalo, Mark Bululu, says some of the pits have been in existence since 1950 and are handed down from one generation to the next. Groups of up to 200 people work a single mine, and visitors flock to the region to either witness the process or purchase raw gold.

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Grind to a

malt It fell upon this brewmaster to rebrand a premium beer and bring back its consistency

Willis Mitula.

By Peter Ndoria travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

If you brew a beer with the same grain and using the same process, you are bound to end up with the same outcome. That is the result Willis Mitula, who was at the centre of the recent rebranding of Tusker Malt, set out to achieve. According to Mitula, who is the head of governance and quality assurance at EABL, they had received constant feedback from consumers that their favourite froth of 23 years did not have a consistent taste. This pointed to different ages in the market, a crucial element since beer ideally has a six-month shelf life. It was back to the drawing board for this veteran brewer and the brief was crystal clear: you must be full bottle on consistency. The rebrand started with starving the market. Over three months, they made sure that the beer was significantly depleted before they supplied afresh. They also educated the distributors; the green bottle may be premium branding enjoyed by the discerning consumer, but it doesn’t resist UV-light penetration like the regular amber

one. Exposure to light spoils a beer, a defect called light-struck, which develops an off-flavour. To minimise this exposure they redesigned the beer’s crate and introduced a cover. They also visited the distributors’ warehouses, advising them to move bulbs and place covers. Aside from storage and controlling supply, this brewer also had to go way back to the brand’s source of extract: malt. Malt is made from barley, meaning that the grain had to be consistent in this race to ensure no shilly-shallying in flavour. “We have farmers and we have their representatives; we give them seed, fertiliser and we visit the farms, and we see it from seed to harvest. Even during harvest we’re there,” the microbiologist with over 20 years of experience in the industry, and a master’s degree in fermentation and microbial technology explains. It is a delicate process that checks nitrogen levels, signs of aflatoxin and moisture content. Ensuring similar harvest gives a unique steady starting point. Even the hopping process had to keep up with the consistency and be subject to specific boil durations since Tusker Malt is a hopped beer, not a hoppy one. “People’s palates are different. When the bitterness is about five units, we start picking it. When the bitterness is around say 10 to 15 units, it’s what most Kenyans’ palates is happy with. Then there’s a group that is happy with something between 15 and 22 units,” he says, speaking of the spectrum that these bitterers add to a beer. While this brewmaster’s contribution to Tusker Malt is significant in the last three years with regards to the beer’s consistency, he has vast experience in the business. His brewing prowess has seen him travel far and wide, witnessing all types of markets, processes and drinkers. At St James’ Park in Dublin, he recalls how he was impressed by the scale he saw. “The size of the place was double what we have … we could do a batch of 10,000, a batch of 20,000,” he says of the massive brewing tanks’ hectolitre capacity. He may have been impressed by the Irish, but it is in Germany that he experienced the counterculture. “The German culture is interesting. They drink and eat a lot, that’s why microbreweries thrive there because people are coming for food yet they are drinking,” he says of the country that originated the Oktoberfest. Here he witnessed “seven straight days of serious drinking” during one such festival, complete with relaxation, recovery, sleeping and even puking areas all enclosed in a big field, and tents selling different beer brands. In Ghana, they are much like Kenya in the ‘chafua meza’ habit, while on the other hand, Ugandans like to use straws.

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Image courtesy of The Greatest Masai Mara Photographer of the Year

Guided by: Leshan

Instagram profile: @deepak.shankar.photography

Photographer: Deepak Shankar

Details: Sony A9, @ 200-600, 7.1, 1/1000

The cheetah made a dash for this impala, which appeared pregnant. The action was over in a brief 10 seconds after the impala hit a safari vehicle and the cheetah, with her three cubs, made a quick meal of it.

THE FLYING HUNT

SHOOTING SCENE