Travel Log September Issue by Standard Group PLC

Travel JIONEE KENYA!

NOT FOR SALE

SEPTEMBER 2019

Air, land & sea

is a charm

the standard

editor’s Word

It’s your turn to tend i Went there, pg 9, 10, 11

the story behind, Pg16-17

the connoisseur, Pg30

The RiveR of DReams (coveR image)

hot air balloons ascend over the mara River as the sun rises in this view from Wild eye mara camp. Details: Nikon D810, @ 70-200 f/2.8, ISO 64, 5.6, 1/640 Photographer: Gavin Werbeloff guided by: Sammy Ngotho instagram: @travelbuddha Twitter: @travel_buddha Image courtesy of The Greatest Maasai Mara Photographer of the Year Website: thegreatestmaasaimara.com

One of the most influential characters I have ever met is Alan Donovan who is responsible for African Heritage House, which is arguably the most photographed house in Africa. One day, as we sat on the porch of his famous domicile in awe of the setting sun, a nostalgic Donovan in an exasperated tone reminisced about the lesser wildebeest migration that he had had the honour of experiencing barely two decades ago. By his account, the wildebeest would move back and forth from the Athi-Kapiti Plains through the Nairobi National Park and on to Amboseli Ecosystem. That is not the only heritage that the art collector and jeweller has witnessed gradually vanish. In his lifelong journey collecting art with his friend the late Joseph Murumbi, Kenya’s second vice-president, Donovan watched as authentic African wear especially headdresses fade into extinction.

It is up to you to save what remains, the sage quipped jolting me from my daze. By me, he meant my generation and the one after have to step up to protect our vulnerable heritage. In my lifetime, the Nairobi National Park continues to breathe fresh air into our choking and voracious capital; the Mara Migration thrives despite cheeky fires and logging upstream; humpback whales are calving on our shores as are elephants in Rimoi Reserve; and the ubiquitous pink of flamingos has returned to the Rift Valley. This edition encourages you to do your part in conserving our heritage. You can start taking time out to experience the three migrations featured. ION, our online solution goes live this week travelog.ke so read all your editions and more there. Looking forward to your feedback on travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

Thorn Mulli

shooting scene, Pg 13, 32 editor in chief: Ochieng Rapuro group executive editor and head of news: Kipkoech Tanui editor: Thorn Mulli suB-editor: Sandra Mulluka revise editor: Peter Ndoria editor, partnerships and projects: Andrew Kipkemboi Manager print creative: Dan Weloba creative designers: Virginia Borura , Lydia Amusolo, Benson Gathemia, Liz Karanja, Tracy Bett contriButors: Gardy

Chacha, Jayne Rose Gacheri, Jimmy Mwangi, Lubnar Abdulhalim, Nadine Hosny, photographY: David Gichuru, Elvis Ogina, Mose Sammy, Njiru Rukenya Registered at the GPO as a newspaper. The Standard is printed and published by the proprietors the standard group pLc email: travelog@standardmedia.co.ke follow us on instagram: @TravelLogKe twitter: @TravelLogKe1 facebook: Travel Log KE

1.makhanuhesther@gmail.com 2. krisirungu@gmail.com 3. lindakeitany@gmail.com 4. bmussoku@gmail.com 5. antonate.obure2015@ gmail.com

take a selfie with the september issue for a chance to win two nights at the exclusive fairmont Mount Kenya safari club. the winner will be announced in the october issue.

august Winners to ethiopia’s Kuriftu bishoftu

3 SKAL LuNCH

[Elvis Ogina, Standard]

sKaL international held their monthly luncheon at the panari hotel, nairobi. skal is the only international group uniting all branches of the travel and tourism industry. [Elvis Ogina. Standard] Panari Group’s Financial Controller Devendra Asher presents a winning raffle voucher to a ‘Skalleague’.

Travelog Brand Manager Seth Enos (right ) explains a point to (from left) Patrick Marekia, Bhagwanji Ratna, Pushpa Ratna, and Palash Ratna. SKAL President, Sally Khavere (fifth left) poses with the elegant Panari team. ‘Skalleagues’ enjoy lunch.

[Mose Sammy, Standard]

The top three finishers with their navigators celebrate on the winners’ podium.

Navigator Ravi Soni (left) and driver Baldev Chager celebrate after winning the 2019 Top Fry Classic Rally event in a time of 10:16:20:4

2019 TOP FRy CLASSiC RALLy the fourth edition of this rally traversed the expansive Laikipia county in a battle of speed and endurance with the crowning of the winners being at fairmont Mount Kenya safari club

Laikipia Governor, Nderitu Muriithi flags off the rally. Menengai Oil Refineries were the title sponsors of the 2019 edition. Others were Standard Group PLC, Fairmont Mount Kenya Safari Club, Aquamist, Best Whisky and Laikipia County Government.

‘The Nairobian’ features writer Cheptoek Boyo could not resist the charm of this vintage beauty.

4 SPLENDID SPACES Follow us on Instagram @TravelLogKe Twitter: @TravelLogKe1 Facebook: Travel Log

Crowned Africasâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Leading Hotel Residences 2019 at the World Travel Awards, The Reside ment of 16 fully-furnished and serviced villas located within the Leopard Beach Resort & along Kenyaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s famous Diani Beach, they offer four villa-types and boast of a modern and a host of facilities and amenities. The villas are available on a bed and breakfast, half- or choice of four a la carte restaurants and bars situated at the adjoining Leopard Beach R

ences are a distinctly up-market develop& Spa. Set on 15 acres of indigenous forest nd spacious design, privacy and security, and r full-board basis. Guests also have the Resort & Spa.

The Standard

MUSINGS

WITH LUBNAH ABDULHALIM

How travel enhances growth

ave you ever walked on the streets and encountered hawkers selling very random things like belts, a torch, and pesticides, and thought to yourself, ‘How often do people buy such items? How much does this person earn at the end of the day? Is it ever enough? Do these people ever break even?’ It is advisable to take a walk as often as possible. This is because there is so much growth to be experienced in going out, travelling, exploring… there is always a lesson to be learnt. Here are some wonderful ways in which travel leads to inner growth: It is the break you desperately need Everyone needs a time out from the normal routine. Sometimes we get too engrossed in our daily schedules that we neglect many parts of ourselves, which die within us or talents that remain unexplored. With travelling, you get to interact with nature, breath in fresh air, watch sunrises and sunsets among many other ‘smell the roses’ activities. It is an opportunity to break from traffic jams, toxic air,and fast food. Indeed a monotonous life is not worth being called life. “I travel a lot; I hate having my life disrupted by routine” – Caskie Stinnett It pushes you out of your comfort zone If you’re used to doing things in a particular way and then you travel, things that are commonplace in your locality might not be available,. You are then left with no choice but to explore other options possible. Travel pushes you to talk to strangers, ask for directions, eat food you wouldn’t otherwise and maybe even participate in group activities with people who don’t even speak the same language as you do. At this point, you are not at total liberty or in control to have things your way. You come face-to-face with change. You’d have to make sacrifices and compromises. You’d have to comply and obey rules of foreign land. When in Rome, do what the Romans do. “Certainly, travel is more than the seeing of sights; it is a change that goes on, deep and permanent, in the

ideas of living” – Miriam Beard It humbles you Honestly travel humbles you, especially when you go out of your typical scenarios and locality. You meet people with intriguing stories; who’ve fought hard and survived, who struggle to make ends meet, and othes in heart rending situations. You will see children hawking; meet very old and frail men and women trying to earn from their own sweat; and people who create their own happiness with the little they have and who are content despite what they lack. This will give you a very different perspective to life and people. It is a great reminder to always be grateful and appreciate what you have and to always know that however bad you think things are, there is someone going through worse than you. “I am not the same having seen the moon shine on the other side of the world” – Mary Anne Radmacher Exploration enhances creativity and storytelling ability. Being around nature, different cultures, and different people opens up a new world for you. You get to learn new things and experience fresh adventures. When you hear other peoples’ stories, you get new ideas and all the moments bring forth to you many possibilities. “Travelling — it leaves you speechless, then turns you into a storyteller” – Ibn Battuta An opportunity for introspection.

One can’t possibly know everything about themselves if they stay in the same place all their lives-under the same conditions and with the same people. You know the saying, ‘if you want to truly know someone, then travel with them?’ This is why. You get to see their patience levels being tested, their immediate reactions, their excitement to triviality, their moods during exhaustion, and their general outlook to life. Yet sometimes one doesn’t even know these things about themselves. It is not until they are in the situation itself that they, learn who they truly are. Travel makes one reflect and question their beliefs, behaviour, and opinions. “The best journeys in life are those that answer questions you never thought to ask” ― Rich Ridgeway Without travelling and without exploring, one doesn’t really get to experience the world in all its magnificence. Stagnation lets you see the world in shades of black, white and grey only. You miss out many life-changing encounters and fail to appreciate the little things in life. You fail to taste kindness and witness love and light in human form. You don’t get to be amazed by the creations that make this world a wonderful place. As the Moorish proverb goes, ‘He who does not travel does not know the value of men.’ Do not let financial constraints cage you in a limited space. You don’t necessarily have spend a bucket load of money to travel. Even sitting by the ocean, a brook, or a quiet spot in the village can be therapeutic enough. We all need a breather, a moment to reflect and introspect. “To travel is to evolve.” – Pierre Bernardo

The Standard

THEGUESTHOUSE

Burhan Jaf: I want to immerse myself

[Amb Burhan Jaf]

Honourable Ambassador Burhan Jaf of Iraq gives his perspective on travelling around Kenya and taking photos, which were on display during the ‘Kenya: Through the Diplomats‘ Lens‘ exhibition that was held at The National Museum of Kenya.

By Nadine Hosny travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

here is a lot of misconception about Kenya. People tend to believe the most ludicrous things about this country so I made it my personal mission to prove them wrong and make people appreciate the magnificence of Kenya through photography. One of my favorite photos from the photos I provided for the exhibition is that of children playing on a beach in Malindi. It was my last day in town, I took a stroll along the beach and I saw these children, full of happiness and youthful innocence playing on the sand, the sky and the ocean were so brilliantly blue. It was such a spectacular sight. It took me back to my childhood, to my village called Birlout by the Sirwan River. My friends and I would play by the river when we were young; the memory still brings a smile to my face.

Through these photos, I wanted to show that the beauty of Kenya does not only lie in the scenic landscapes or the variety of animals but in the people as well. People can write endless stories about Kenya but it is different to visually present it and exhibit. The world is becoming increasingly visually oriented. As the saying goes ‘a picture says a thousand words’. I have grown accustomed to the rich and vibrant colours of Kenya that when I travel elsewhere, I catch myself likening the colours and they pale in comparison to the ones here. I have not been in Kenya very long, only one and a half years but I have managed to travel and explore the nation. I have visited Meru, Malindi, Lamu, Maasai Mara and Ngong Hills. I prefer to travel by road rather than by plane. The rhythm of life is to be savoured and one gets that experience through road travel. For my next trip, however, wherever I go I want to immerse myself in the culture. I do not want to be a tourist. I wish to meet the chiefs of the various tribes, learn about traditions and become one with the people. Ngong Hills was the first place I visited when I arrived in Kenya. We took a walk around the area and I was taken aback by its radiance.

The mission of this exhibition is to bring the melodiousness of culture, nature and people to showcase the nation itself. Some words of advice to the people aspiring to become photographers and explorers; always do research about the location you are going to visit, gather as much information you can so that you will be adequately prepared. For the photographers, I would advise them to have two cameras if they can; one to take multiple shots to capture moving targets and one to take still images. Through this, there is no image you cannot capture. Finally, be patient and make sure you have a great 4x4.

The Standard

Give it up to the green By Jimmy Mwangi As the effects of climate change continue to be felt, we celebrate the most eco-friendly tourism destinations

very year, the hospitality industry gathers to celebrate the most eco-rated properties in Kenya. Run under the auspices Ecotourism Society of Kenya (EK), the awards known as The Eco Warrior Awards coincide with World Tourism Day. Founded in 1996, EK was the ﬁrst ecotourism society in Africa that promotes responsible tourism

PELICAN HOUSE OL PEJETA CONSERVANCY THREE NIGHTS FOR TWO* See below for terms and conditions

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practices within the tourism industry. This entails encouraging the adoption of best practices in the use of tourism resources, working with local communities and managing wastes and emissions. EK is a membership organisation and is one of seven private-sector associations that make up the Kenya Tourism Federation (KTF). It brings together individuals, Community Based Organisations (CBOs) and tourism businesses in a forum where they discuss the concept of ecotourism and use the resultant knowledge to improve their operations towards best practices. Ecotourism Kenya currently has a membership of approximately 550 individuals, accommodation facilities and community based organisations. The Eco-rating Certification is a systematic approach to evaluating a tourism accommodation facility on its environmental, economic and socio-cultural performance against set criteria. The evaluation is meant to recognise best practices in business practices, conservation, community and cultural performance among accommodation facilities and award qualifying applicants with a Bronze, Silver or Gold Eco-rating Certification. We have 40 gold, 37 silver, and five bronze eco-rated facilities. This year’s Gala dinner will be held on September 26, 2019 at the Nairobi Serena Hotel Gold Eco-rating Certification

* Only valid for bookings made between 23rd August and 15th December 2019 for stays between 23rd August and 15th December 2019. Other booking terms and conditions apply ** Special does not apply to public holidays, conservation fees or catering

Gold eco-rating certiﬁcation is the highest level of certiﬁcation and is awarded to a facility that has achieved superior and replicable levels of excellence in responsible resource use, environmental conservation and socio-economic investment. • Responsible resource use:

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 19. 20. 21. 22. 23. 24. 25. 26. 27. 28. 29. 30. 31. 32. 33. 34. 35. 36. 37. 38. 39. 40.

Cottars Camp Elephant Pepper Camp Elsa’s Kopje Kicheche Bush Camp Kicheche Laikipia Camp Kicheche Mara Camp Kicheche Valley Camp Kilima Camp Kitich Camp Lake Elementeita Serena Camp Lewa Safari Camp Mara Plains Camp Medina Palms Naboisho Camp Porini Lion Camp Porini Mara Camp (Ol Kinyei) Porini Amboseli Camp Porini Rhino Camp Sanctuary Olonana Camp Serena Beach Resort & Spa Sirikoi Lodge Solio Lodge Sweet waters Serena Camp Tawi Lodge Tortilis Camp Turtle Bay Beach Club Sasaab Lodge Karen Blixen Camp Sala’s Camp Rekero Camp Severin Sea Lodge Little Governor’s Camp Saruni Mara Camp Encounter Mara Camp Mara Bush Houses Mara Bush Camp Loisaba Tented Camp Mara Serena Safari Lodge Angama Mara Bateleur Camp

(i) Water conservation (ii) Sustainable energy use • Supporting local conservation • Community development • Preserving local culture and heritage • Staff welfare

The Standard

I WENT THERE Follow us on Instagram @TravelLogKe Twitter: @TravelLogKe1 Facebook: Travel Log KE

Arya, the Kombi takes to Kampala

[Dann Mchoraji, Standard]

The Standard

Arya the Kombi

takes to Kampala By Thorn Mulli Run-down 1977 Volkswagen Kombi gets a new lease of life to embark on 13, 000km road-trip

Arya’s Account: y name is Arya. I am 42-years-old. My life is an interesting account because I was in a coma for a decade and was recently resuscitated, two years back to be precise, and poised for a long life ahead. I consider myself lucky because most of my kind will never get a second lease of life. I owe my good fortune to a lovely couple, Dann and Njoki, who saw my potential and took me under their care. In fact, it is they who renamed me Arya, after a popular television series character, and set up an Instagram account for me.

Dann’s account: My dream As long as I can remember, cars and road trips have fascinated me. I vividly remember when at 10 years my father took me on a road trip to Magadi in his friend’s Volkswagen Beetle. That this vehicle model had its sputtering engine in the boot fascinated me. Fast

forward to 2016 and a grown-up me has moved out of my father’s house. I had a job, car, and a girlfriend. Still, my fascination with VW’s was very much alive. I had extensively researched and my eyes were now set on the Volkswagen Type 2. Oddly, in spite of my want, I was not on an active search for my dream car. I was convinced that my dream car would land on my laps at a great bargain price of Sh100, 000. As fate would have it, my colleagues and I were returning from a work expedition a few months later when one of our cars broke down in Nanyuki. This misfortune forced the entire travelling party at take refuge at Barney’s restaurant located in Nanyuki Airfield as we waited for vehicle to be repaired. As we snacked, the topic about the Kombi arose. I quipped that I was still keen on owning one and it turned out that the father of one of my travel mates owned one and was looking to dispose of it. A week later, egged on by my fiancée, and I was inspecting what

The state of the Kombi before restoration. [Dann Mchoraji, Standard]

many might consider junk. The owner had become tired of injecting life into the jalopy and had turned it into a temporary store. A price was arrived at and I was given a month to collect. Arya’s account: The restoration The year is 2017. I have been sitting at my new parking lot for months. I am numb at the rain and the scorching sun but can still feel my body degenerating. Could the scrap yard be better than this sedentary life, I wonder when one-day movers jolt me from inertia. I allow myself to be lifted gently and placed on a flat bed tow, which I must say is better treatment that those rough towing trucks that hover around roundabouts awaiting disaster like vultures to a carrion. At least my end will be dignified, or so I console myself. My destination, it turns out is not the scrap yard after all. I am destined for a workshop in Lang’ata’s Otiende area, owned by a Steve Waruhi who has earned a reputation

The Standard

I WENT THERE

SPECS: MODEL: VW Kombi T2 YOM: 1977 ENGINE: 1600cc air-cooled engine. Single carburetor. CAPACITY: Five pax COLOUR: Bubblegum Pink TRANSMISSION: Four-speed original gearbox ADD-ONS: •Rock n roll bed •Wood grain floor finish •Pioneer Bluetooth car radio system •Arm rest storage compartment with a cup holder •Sound and vibration proofed body panel •Heat proofed roof upholstery

Arya at the 2019 Uganda Vintage and Classic Auto Show held in Kampala where she accompanied award winning 1968 Kombi (right). [Dann Mchoraji, Standard]

for restoring my kind. I am in for a spa-like treatment. First, I am stripped bare of my old garments and my white paint scoured off. Welding, which tickles, follows as my benefactor ships in new original parts from Queen’s land (PS-I would later learn that my benefactor had been engrossed planning for his nuptials hence my long break on his parking). The parts he cannot land, he trades with his peers who are members of the Kenyan VW club. After thousands of shillings spent and weeks of treatment impressed, a revivified yours truly takes to the road for the first time in twelve years. Before I can be unveiled, however, I am booked for more aesthetic surgery in Machakos under the knife of another master of the trade, Peter Nzioka aka ‘Chera. In his studio, he sound deadens my bowel, heat proofs my top, sets up a unique cradle system and lays PVC wood grain flooring. Dann’s Account: The unveil After months of work and a significant dent in our accounts, we are ready to reveal our baby to the world. Her first assignment is to make up for the wedding she did not attend. On the appointed day, thus, we drive down in the company of our bridal team to Mr Brown’s ranch in Lukenya for a deserved photo shoot. After making her bones on camping trip to Oloiden, Arya

Arya, The African Kombi at work(top and middle) and with her owners (below and right). [Mwaniki Will, Standard]

Planning a trip? Here are Arya’s top tips: •Travel in a convoy and maintain your position in it. •Always pack a handy toiletry bag. •Include time for rest. Regular stops go a long way to ensure a worthwhile drive. •Leave selfishness at home. •Conduct an online recce before the expedition. •Truck stops and fuel stations are the safest points to stop. •Remain alert and ready for anything. was ready for her biggest test yet… a proper road trip. Arya would be accompanying an award winning 1968 Volkswagen Kombi to the 2019 Uganda Vintage and Classic Auto Show. After weeks of planning and with the logbook arriving just in the nick of time we set off in a convoy of four. Arya’s account: Road trip to Uganda The fact that my air-cooled engine relies on its oil for cooling means we have to stop every so often for a cold drink for refreshments. Our first forced pitstop is at Gilgil where one of our travelling party is having difficulties. Repairs welcome the night and our journey resumes the next morning. We are using the Busia route and arrive in Kisumu the eve of the next day. With no trouble at the borders crossing, we take four hours to our next stop Jinja. At midday, we arrive at our destination and. We set up at Matete backpackers but ours is a short rest. Cleaning for the competition begins at dawn and we all receive a proper scrubbing before settling on the lawns of Sheraton Kampala Hotel. I am elated at being included as a guest at the completion. My guardians cannot get enough of the “Sell me your car” comments they receive. After one more day touring the city, we begin our journey back home. The route follows Kisumu-Ahero-Mau SummitKericho-Nakuru before the obligatory Delamere stop informs us that we are home, 13, 000 kilometres later and the only mishap is my clutch cable snapping outside Kampala. I have taken a rest from road excursions to focus on work where I charge Sh5 ,000 as a prop for music videos and weddings. A ladys gotta earn his keep, after all.

The Standard

By Jayne Rose Gacheri travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

A visit to the Masai Mara is not complete without witnessing the wildebeest exodus

here aren’t enough words to describe the magniﬁcence of the Mara Game Reserve every year between June to October. This occurrence is the Great Migration, also called The Greatest spectacle on earth, and now also classiﬁed as one of the modern Seven Wonders of the World. This Great Migration of wildebeests has been described as one of the most inspiring sights on earth – a sign that most people have only seen in pictures and movies. A visit to the Mara Game Reserve, the richest wildlife reserve in Africa, is not complete without witnessing this annual spectacle. You can visit the Mara dozens of times, but each time will be a new experience. However, the best times to go there is dur-

ing The Great Migration, this year came early in May. For close to four months, the Mara Reserve transforms to a hot attraction spot for many tourists, ﬁlmmakers, media and other visitors who come to witness this spectacle that only happens here. The Making of a Great Display Before the Great Migration happens, the stage is set during the wet season. In the Serengeti, there’s plenty of pastures on the southern plains and in the Ngorongoro Conservation area, where the wildebeest, also called gnus, ﬁnd a safe place to graze and give birth to their calves. However, as East Africa’s savannah plains fade to a pale yellow, around April, an ancient signal is sent to millions of beasts, including a stagger-

Experience the great migration

ing three million wildebeests, some 200,000 zebras and gazelle – to start the treacherous trek across thousands of miles from Serengeti National Park in northern Tanzania to Maasai Mara. This is what is named “The Great Migration”. By the end of May, the depleted Serengeti plains are unable to sustain the herds. This forces them to leave the western corridor to take to the northern Serengeti plains and woodlands. As they exhaust the prairies, they can smell the rains that are falling northward, at the other side – the Maasai Mara. The fresh, tender and mineral-rich pastures are irresistible bait for the wild cattle to invade the Kenyan reserve. Suddenly, as if on impulse and under the command of a mysterious shepherd the “the lawn mowers”

The Standard

MIGRATION SPECIAL: LAND

abandon the exhausted grasslands of Serengeti for the tall grass in the Mara basin. The troops coming from the Serengeti meet with another contingent – the resident wildebeest herd of the Mara region. The animals, adding up to about 100,000 reside in the Loita plains and hills north-east of the Mara, until the dry season brings tougher days and it is time to seek the evergreen Mara basin. The solemn procession does not travel alone! A constellation of carnivores follow closely, mainly lions and hyenas, whilst the vulture squadrons ﬂy over the parade. Thousands of weak or ill animals end up being devoured during the trek, and only one out of three calves will ever see the Serengeti again. Throughout the month of July, the herds cross the Sand River, a dry

tributary of the Mara which roughly follows the boundary line between Kenya and Tanzania. The herd parades at the eastern sector of the Maasai Mara, surrounding the Kekorot Lodge (my base point) area, the trek follows westward leading the herds to face the major challenge along the quest: crossing the Mara River and its tributary, the Talek. The Great Spectacle By this time the rains at the Mau Escarpment where the Mara rises, have fed the stream to its highest level. The steep banks are populated with basking crocodiles waiting patiently for the annual banquet. With wild determined eyes, the wildebeest parade along the swollen banks looking for a suitable crossing point. They seem to be plunged in a state of anxiety and wander around nervously, their grunts sounding loud in the air. They seem unsure of what move to make – to plunge into the river or turn back. Probably the “thought” of the lush green grass awaiting them on the other side is so tempting and blinds them from taking an alternative route. Then suddenly one of them approaches the edge of the river, scanning the opposite side, probably to analyze if danger waits. If all seems clear it plunges into the river. This is a message to the rest of the heard that in a stupor follow suit, in a single line, with the slower ones throwing themselves into the river. The rearguard pushes the troops into a frantic race that end up with some animals trampled to death. Many of them end either drowning, or making a meal for the crocodiles. If one of them detects danger, it jumps back, pulling the rest of the herd into a confused retreat that sometimes triggers a crazy stampede. When the line breaks, the animals that have crossed will not continue their journey until the whole heard has crossed. They will remain on the opposite bank grunting at their mates as if encouraging them to cross. When every wildebeest has crossed, the frontrunners lead the animals to their ﬁnal destination. Those that survive the ordeal are too

“The Great (wildebeest) Migration has also been described as one of the most-inspiring sights on earth – a sight that most people have only seen in pictures and movies.” weak to continue with the journey, thus ending up as prey to the ambushing lions. The operation of fording the river is what the spectacle is made of to many visitors, photographers and ﬁlm-makers. It is the most delicate of the entire migration. The fording is ﬁnished, some animals have died, smashed to pieces by the crocodiles’ jaws or trampled to death by their mates in the stampede. The dramatic life and death struggle is what local and international visitors come to see. Nature’s Balancing Act Probably to keep nature’s

balance of life and death, vultures, marabou storks and hyenas become permanent dwellers of the riverbank where carcasses decay. Their task is to clean the belt. The repellent massacre landscape that literally stains red the brown waters is nothing but one more step in the circus of nature. Actually it is not a scene of death but one of life, since abundance of meat feeds a great many species that would otherwise be extinct. It also controls the herbivore population. Around September-October, the herds are back to Serengeti through another route. Once here, the animals ﬁnd rain sweetened grasslands which provide much needed nourishment especially for the pregnant female herbivores which will be born (about 400,000) in spontaneous profusion – thus completing the circle of life and death Strictly speaking though, the migration has neither a start nor an end. Each wildebeest’s life in the Serengeti is a constant pilgrimage that is never really over until the animal dies. But if you visited the Mara around October and November, you will ﬁnd no evidence of this great spectacle. This is Mother Nature’s way of balancing act of life and death.

14 migration special: sea

Chasing humpback whales in Watamu These gentle giants that can weigh as much as five elephants swim long distances to breed on Kenya‘s coastal waters By Marion Mithamo travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

ravelling around Kenya is quite a humbling experience, because each time you start to think you’ve seen it all… Magical Kenya sneaks one up on you. That’s how I felt when I discovered that humpback whales visit our Kenyan coastline annually! It all started a few weeks ago when my friends Mwangi Kirubi (Mwarv), Joshua Kisamwa and I got an invite from the Kenya Tourism Board to experience the Humpback Whale Migration in Watamu. Considering that I’ve dreamt of seeing whales since I was a kid, this one was really a no-brainer. This expedition was a follow-up to the wildebeest migration in Maasai Mara that coincides with the humpback whale migration, hence the phrase: The Twin Migration! Humpback whales, the biggest sea mammals measuring 15 metres long and weighing 30 tonnes (five times the weight of an elephant), migrate annually to the Kenyan Coast from the Antarctic Ocean, between July and

September. Swimming what’s possibly the longest journey on the planet, humpback whales travel over 5,000kilometres to breed in warmer climate. As we left Nairobi for Malindi, the fate of our excursion hung in the balance as we had just been informed that conditions in the deep sea were pretty unstable. Yet, missing this incredible opportunity was not an option. We prayed and kept our fingers crossed. The day’s activities started out bright and early at Hemingways Watamu, after a brief meeting with Steve Trott, the Project Manager of Watamu Marine Association, together with the Hemingways Watamu and KWS teams.

hoping against hope We learned some amazing facts about the humpback whale migration and their combined conservation efforts in Watamu. The Watamu Marine Association (WMA) has been conducting studies on humpback whales since 2011, and the Hemingways Hotel was the first to offer whalewatching tours in Watamu. With the growing interest, whale sighting is now a joint initiative amongst the local Watamu marine community, with local tour and boat operators recently taking up tours. My heart leapt with joy when it was confirmed that we could sail. It was going to be a good day! whale chasing Captain Jackson and his crew were waiting to welcome us aboard the boat: ‘Seastorm’. The teams were taken through a Safety Brief while we were also informed by the guide that spotting whales, though highly probable, is

15 4

humpback whales • The humpback whale is a species of baleen whale. • Adults range in length from 12–16 metres (39–52 feet) and weigh around 25–30 metric tons (28–33 short tons) • The humpback has a distinctive body shape, with long pectoral fins and a knobbly head. It is known for breaching, making it popular with whale-watchers. • Males produce a complex song lasting 10 to 20 minutes, which they repeat for hours at a time. All the males in a group will produce a distinct song, which is different every season.

1) A jumping humpback whale 3) A humpback whale with its calf 3) An aerial shot of Mida Creek in Watamu 4) The team that went whale-watching led by Steve Trott (left), Project Development Manager, Watamu Marine Association

5) The boat, christened ‘Sea Storm’, that took us on the whale-watching adventure

not always a guarantee. At this, I whispered a quick prayer reminding God of our agreement: ‘12 whale sightings please…’ As the shore disappeared from into the horizon, the waves grew stronger and fuller with a great thrust from the wind. We spotted our first whale about 6 nautical miles in, but he was rather shy, swiftly disappearing in the water. Our expedition soon turned into a catand-mouse chase. We would spot a tail here, and another would appear somewhere else in the distance! Soon enough, we realised that whale watching is a much different ballgame, compared to a Game Drive on land. With wild animals, you’re on solid ground and the most they can do is trot off. Contrastingly, with whale-chasing, you are at the mercy of the ocean and the sea creatures. Everything happens so fast and you have no idea where to look next; plus the strong waves rocking the boat play dangerously with your body’s

contents. Thankfully, just as our hearts were growing faint, we spotted two male whales breaching a distance away… Masterfully, our Captain steered the boat in their direction! And in the most remarkable fashion, the two whales breached 16 times! To crown the show, two dolphins swam by the boat ever so gracefully! badge of honour In that splendid afternoon, we ended up spotting 10 whales and three dolphins. And as Captain Jackson led us back ashore, the boat fell silent, each of us possibly reflecting on the extraordinary experience we’d just had. Towards the end of our boat ride, my body finally gave in and I got seasick. Somehow, it felt like a badge of honour because it was so, so worth it!. Our Magical Kenya is like the gift that keeps on giving... We may never fully grasp the treasures it holds, so the best we can do is to celebrate them!

16 Follow us on Instagram @TravelLogKe Twitter: @TravelLogKe1 Facebook: Travel Log KE

THE STORY BEHIND

Nairobi Mandir : The carving of an icon By Jayne Rose Gacheri

travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

A look inside the monumental Hindu temple that embodies unique Indian architecture

he year is 1999. I am on a special assignment to document the completion of a magniﬁcent monument of unique and rare architecture – The BAPS Shri Swaminarayan Mandir (Temple), Nairobi. I am awed by what I ﬁnd out on arrival. Standing at the centre of the expansive land is an imposing, iconic and grandiose hand-carved masterpiece of art, a symbol of how deeply religious and deity the Swaminarayan followers are to their faith. The completed and now ready to be launched monument is an enigma. The Mandir is set on a three-acre compound surrounded by beautifully manicured gardens comprising of over 500 indigenous plant species. From Yogendara Savania, my guide, I learn that the Mandir is designed according to ancient Hindu architectural designs. He tells me

that for three years, (1997-1999) hundreds of individuals drawn from the global Shree Swaminarayan faith of the Hindu religion worked tirelessly towards the completion of this chefd’oeuvre project. I learn that even though there were other temples in Africa before this one, it is the first traditional stone and marble Hindu temple to be constructed on the continent. Indeed, it is the first handcarved temple in the world. The Prophecy In 1970, Yogiji Maharaj (Guru), when inaugurating the Hari Mandir in the then affluent area of Ngara Road prophesied that a magnificent and larger Mandir would be built in Nairobi. The prophecy took 22 years to come to life, during which a consensus was reached on September 1994 that majestic Mandir incorporating traditional features be put up on a dedicated piece of land along

1) Nimesh Wadhia is a volunteer PR and Media Liaison Officer at the Nairobi Mandir. 2) The Nairobi Mandir, which is celebrating its 20th anniversary.

Forest Road. So began the journey of constructing the Mandir. A planning committee visited famous monuments in Jesalmer, Jodhpur and Kerala among others to study their architecture and construction in detail. A decision was reached that the Nairobi Mandir would be hard-carved and be clad with sculpted stone from Jesalmer. Elgon teak, mvuli, mahogany and white oak was

transported from Kenya to India, curved and shipped back to be used in the project. Mind-boggling detail The Temple is made from 350 tonnes of yellow sandstone from Jesalmer brought into Kenya from the Mines of Rajasthan, India. The stone, my guide told me, was mined and transported to Pindwada, some 400 km to Jesalmer where it was hand-carved by 250 craftsmen. The carving took the craftsmen two years to complete, after which the carved pieces were shipped to Mombasa and assembled in Nairobi like a giant threedimensional jigsaw puzzle. The magniﬁcent burnt yellow piece of art before my eyes had ﬁve pinnacles and seven domes that formed the silhouette of this majestic building. The domes and pinnacles were symbolic – a mountain. You see, going up the mountain to seek God is the belief of many religious communities and the Swaminarayan community is no exception. To them, the

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THE STORY BEHIND

3) Inside the Mandir 4)Repair works in readiness for the September 19 celebrations 5) His Divine Holiness, Mahant Swami Maharaj, the Hindu spiritual leader who will be visiting Kenya from September 19 to October 7

4 pinnacles and domes represent the mountain and thus a place to seek and worship God. Fast forward It is August 2019; 20 years down the line since my last visit. Time seems to have stood still. I am back on another assignment, this time to document if the majestic hand-carved wooden temple has stood the test of time. On arrival, right from the main entrance to the Swaminarayan Temple, I am confronted with what looks like a construction site. As I wait to be ushered in, I notice a flurry of activities. The construction workers are seemingly in a rush to finish their work. A few minutes later, a man with a wide smile approaches me and introduces himself as Nimesh Wadhia, my guide for the day. He is the Public Relations and Media Liaison Officer, a position he holds on voluntary basis. He tells me that most of the Swaminarayan workers offer their time and services without any pay. Now I understand some Hindu mottos:

“in the joy of others, lies our own joy” and “unity in diversity”. Nimesh assures me that the Mandir is majestic as ever and has stood the test of time and will stand ﬁrm for many years to come. He explains that the on-going construction work is the upgrading of the temple because so much has happened in the last two decades. This, he says, is all in the quest to make the Mandir a vibrant place of worship and service. “The Complex has become the focus of interest and wonder for thousands of local citizens and people visiting Nairobi and it would be in the public interest to ensure that the Mandir meets their expectations and beyond”, he says. The Future Beyond a worship complex, the BAPS Shri Swaminarayan Mandir is a fusion of traditional Indian wooden carving with modern technology that has attracted people from all walks of life. This includes visiting school groups and architects who are marveled by the stunning architecture and breathtaking

artistry of the temple. This remains the focal point purpose of the Mandir, even with the on-going refurbishment and expansion project. “The Mandir exempliﬁes a system of construction that has been proven to withstand the test of time, thus providing a place that will continue to generate memories and experiences for posterity,” he explains. Indeed Nimesh’s words are captured throughout my second visit to the Mandir. Even with the construction going on, somehow, my mind is still and at peace. This, he tells me is the concept of the architectural design. The inside of the temple is phenomenon. It is more intriguing than the outside. It is intricately carved in hard wood and has a dazzling dome right at the centre that reminds you that you are in a pious setting. As in my ﬁrst visit, I learned about the various facets of Hindu rites and rituals, as well as the core philosophical concepts of the religion. All this can be found at the Mandir Exhibition of “Understanding Hinduism” which provides a visitor a concise, yet comprehensive study of the Hindu reli-

“The Mandir exemplifies a system of construction that has been proven to withstand the test of time, thus providing a place that will continue to generate memories and experiences for posterity.”

gion. It is an inspiring place to learn about Indian culture and the values and traditions associated with Hinduism. The Nairobi Mandir is the only Mandir in the world with an exhibition centre. Adjacent to the Mandir is BAPS Shri Swaminarayan Haveli, a cultural complex which comprises a prayer hall, a restaurant, kitchen, dining hall, concourse, assembly hall, administrative offices, bookshop, gymnasium, dispensary, youth hall and a centre for social services. The complex holds several activities some of which are spiritual and those that encourage volunteerism. Some of the colourful festival marked are reminiscent of some of the festivals in India such as Diwali, Swaminarayan Jayanti and Ram Navamin. Great meal, modest charity, timely exposé! From our conversations with Nimesh, I gather that at this outstanding complex you can have a tasty vegetarian meal for a token fee (you are encouraged to give towards helping the needy). You will learn about charity work, all in a serene setting. It is while sharing a puff (vegetable pie) and some sweet deserts (the Hindus love sweets and have over 300 varieties), that Nimesh informs me the reason of the hushed construction. “We will be having the biggest event ever in the Hindu calendar outside of India,” he remarks. He expounds that for the first time His Divine Holiness, Mahant Swami Maharaj, the Sixth spiritual successor will be visiting Kenya from September 19 to October 7. During this visit, the spiritual leader will celebrate his birthday on September 23, the first time he has celebrated his birthday outside India. On October 3, there will be festivities to celebrate the 20th Anniversary of the Nairobi Mandir “Our spiritual leader loves Africa and has a soft spot for the continent, and in particular Kenya,” he states, adding that during this particular visit, the Hindu leader will hold special prayers where he will be speaking a blessing to those people from all walks of life. Nimesh explains that the festivities, which have never before been witnessed in Hindu events in Kenya, will be marked by lots of pomp and glamour in the festivities. Parting shot: “And by the way, you are welcome to attend, and more importantly to pray and learn and be sure to extend the invitation to the members of the public through your platform (Travelog), the PR requests of me. Any visitor to Nairobi should not miss visiting this majestic monument, a place for all to worship (provided you follow the simple guidelines), and a place to find inner peace and learn the sense of duty to humanity as depicted in the Hindu Motto: “In the joy of others, we find our own joy”

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Shooting a whale of a job

Couple produces ground-breaking ﬁlm highlighting migration of the humpbacks to Kenya‘s coast By Nadine Hosny travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

he ocean has always been a great love for Jahawi Bertolli and his wife Elke Korschen. Elke was born in the Lamu Archipelago off the Kenyan coast. Growing up, she witnessed the steady development of the island, the rise in tourism and its consequences on the environment. Marine life conservation is in Elke’s blood as her mother, Carol Korschen, is the founder of Lamu Marine Conservation Trust (LAMCOT), which initially began as a project for the preservation and protection of turtles in the archipelago. Turtles and their eggs are a delicacy among Lamu locals. This resulted in a sharp decrease in turtle population. Drawing inspiration from her mother, Elke dedicated her life to conservation of all marine life. Jahawi aptly says that he grew up wild – from a young age, he could often be found in the bush or on the beach. His family owned a beach house in Waa, on the south coast, and he spent his days exploring the ocean and the rock pools that lay scattered along the beach. He started catching snakes that inhabited the area and

moving them to safer locations, or else they would be killed by locals. After spending a few years in London producing dance music, he returned to Nairobi and started producing music for wildlife documentaries. One thing that struck him though was that despite there being many wildlife photographers, very few were underwater photographers. Jahawi enrolled in a three-month underwater cinematography online course in Thailand, that eventually landed him a job ﬁlming underwater. Jahawi and Elke’s shared love for the ocean, marine life and its preservation brought them together and their ﬁrst joint undertaking

Jahawi Bertolli and his wife Elke, who are behind the film ‘Call of the Humpacks’. [Courtesy]

was a short film called The Lamu Archipelago shot in Lamu between 2014 and 2015. The short film was based on the work of the Lamu Marine Conservation Trust but also extensively featured underwater life in Lamu. The film premiered at the Smithsonian Institutes Folklore Festival in the USA that same year. The dynamic duo is embarking on a ground-breaking film Call of the Humpbacks, a 10-minute poignant and creative film highlighting the migration of the humpback whales to Kenyan waters. Whales have been hunted in Africa for decades, as early as the 18th century for baleen, which in those days was used in a similar way to plastic, and blubber that was developed into oil for machines and lamps. Their migration periods followed such a consistent pattern that sailors revisited the same locations, year in year out to hunt these sea creatures. Sadly, this trend worsened in later years, in 1970 there were approximately only 300-600 whales in the Western Indian Ocean; whales were staring at extinction. But all hope was not lost. In 1979, South Africa made commercial whaling illegal and a recent research conducted by a team led by marine biologist Chris Wilkinson, the technical manager for the Mammal Research Institute at the University of Pretoria, indicated that there are now more than 30,000 humpback whales frolicking about in the Western Indian Ocean. They journey to our coastal waters to mate and raise their young, further cementing the necessity of this film. Call of the Humpback will be the first film of its kind to be done in Kenya. As more whales migrate to our sea and face the danger of being hunted, this marvellous beings are in grave danger, particularly because they come to breed. What sets this short film apart is that it is an impassioned story, conveyed from the local coastal communities. with coastal folklore about whales and historical accounts from local fishermen. The soundtrack of the film, which is both in English and Swahili, is the sound made by whales songs underwater.

SpiceFM

SpiceFMke

20 the mixologiST

The Standard

Drinks and the dinner table Mixing your favourite alcoholic beverages with food to create amazing meal pairings By Alex Kavita travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

s wine the only alcoholic beverage that can be taken alongside food? Of course, there are purists but if there’s one thing I advise people is to try something new at least once in their lifetime. To chefs and cocktail makers – we know what can match or contrast, enhance or dilute to create dishes or cocktails. Most bartenders have a great under-

Demystifying single malts with a cocktail Indeed a spirit that is deemed consumable in certain ways. But with the growth of the bartender craft see a simple way of how flavors in single malts can be used as foundation to create exciting cocktails as well. • 60 ml Bulleit Bourbon (Fat washed with clarified butter ) • 60 ml Cardhu • 30 ml honey syrup • 3 dashes – bitters • 1 egg white • Shake all ingredients and strain into whisky glass. • Garnish with orange

standing of flavours of all beverage and with this foundation they can work with chefs to create amazing meal pairings. Indeed, food can be

paired with spirits like scotch etc. Last week I had an amazing experience with a chef whom I have a lot of respect for. I have done a lot of whisky pairings where I have supported some chefs but when it’s Aris Athinasou of the Movenpick then it’s time to step aside and let the maestro do his thing. The market is screaming out that experientials are the way to go. Thus, chef Aris and I planned and showcased a dinner of five courses and five Diageo whiskies with exceptional pairings – a whole new level of scotch showing up at the dinner table. The Cardhu 12-year-old pairing was a favourite for the day. Cardhu is a Speyside single malt that is not ‘so complex’ to break down. It’s silky smooth with notes of dried fruit, honey, nuts with a little whiff of smoke. Mellow at first taste but will cement its flavours as you continue to sip. The amazing chef made a cold starter of prosciutto (ham), pear and apricot jams and honey mustard. My favourite touch was dehydrated orange peel dust! That and the smoky salty flavours from the main component are beyond comparison. So yes it does work – as we had four more courses with four other Diageo scotch entities. Main point is an appreciation that experiences as far as beverage haven’t been fully exploited with wine. I’m thinking about the scotch alone and the diversity in food will keep you searching for the next pairing. You’d be amazed as this only the tip of the iceberg. Scotch and other spirits will continue to show up at the dinner table. Easy DIY – Singleton tailfire with rum and raisin chocolate – remember that water does well to mellow scotch to palatable levels.

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What’s Cooking?

Mount Kenya Grilled trout, treat aubergine caviar and lemon butter sauce

[Mose sammy, standard]

INGREDIENTS (FOR TWO): 2 whole trout ( 300g each) remove the fillet –then grill Zucchini pave 200g - grilled Fresh peas –boiled Parsley infused oil Aubergine Caviar 2 medium globe eggplants 5 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, divided ½ chopped small onion 1 teaspoon salt 1 cloves garlic 2 tablespoon minced fresh basil 1/8 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

By Chef Kiran Ramsaran travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

PREPARATION: Cut the eggplants in half lengthwise and poke the skin sides with the tines of a fork. Brush the cut side with olive oil and sprinkle with salt. Grill the cut side down until lightly browned and cooked all the way through. If the eggplants brown too quickly, turn them over and finish the cooking on the skin side. Once the eggplants have cooled, peel off the tough outer skin and discard. Chop the eggplant. Place the chopped garlic, eggplant,

Meet the CheF How long have you been a chef? I have been a chef for over 25 years. What drew you to the culinary world? Having grown up in a coastal tourist village with many hotels and restaurants, I found myself drawn to the culinary world. I worked in one of the leading hotels close to home as an apprentice. Over time, I rose up the ranks and travelled the world to work in leading international hotels. I will also give credit to my mother who is the best chef in the world Where were you trained? I started training as a chef at the tender age of 15, where I was an apprentice from the hotel I started and thereafter was sponsored to attend a three-year course in hotel management at the Hotel School of Mauritius. How many people work in your kitchen and what is your philosophy? I have a team of 50 including chefs and stewards. My philosophy is ‘Team work and different cultures mixed together brings out the best’. What is your favourite cuisine? Mauritian Creole, my native cuisine. Mauritius is a multicultural island. Do you have a guilty food pleasure? French Baguette and Gateau Piment (a Mauritian chilli cake snack)

chopped onion in a hot pan. Season, add the fresh herbs and serve hot. LEmON buTTER SAucE 6 tablespoon cold unsalted butter, 1 tablespoon finely chopped yellow onion ½ garlic cloves, minced 1/3 cup dry white wine 3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice Salt & ground white pepper PREPARATION: Place a medium non-stick skillet over medium heat. Add 1 tablespoon of butter. Allow the butter to melt, add onion and garlic, stirring frequently. Cook until onion is translucent, about 3 minutes. Add the wine and lemon juice and bring to a boil over high heat. Continue to cook until the liquid is reduced to about 1/4 cup, about 3-5 minutes. Reduce the heat to low, add 2 tablespoons of butter at a time and whisk the butter in until it is completely melted. You want the butter to slowly soften into an emulsified sauce, not quickly melting. Add the remaining butter until all the butter has been added into the sauce. Season the sauce with salt and pepper, then remove from heat. Serve immediately.

[Mose sammy, standard]

What is your favourite dish on the menu and why? The trout. Guests are able to enjoy fresh trout sourced from the Likii River originating from the slopes of Mount Kenya. What do Kenyans order most? Kenyans mostly order steaks from our newlylaunched Colobus Grill Restaurant – the different meat cuts are 21-day dry-aged How do you come up with meal ideas dishes ? My dishes always are a blend of both local and international cuisines. Your go-to meal when you’re shorton time? Steak and fries Which celebrity you’ve ever served? Well, among the many I have catered to, Former South African President Nelson Mandela, comes to mind. We held a surprise dinner for him while he was in Mauritius – and served him his favourite peanut butter and spinach soup. What’s the secret to cooking a perfect steak? At Colobus Grill Restaurant, we handpick the meat cuts from the local ranches. The meat undergoes dry-ageing in order to make it more mature and full of flavour. -Chef Kiran Ramsaran is the Executive Chef, Fairmont Mount Kenya Safari Club.

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wellneSS WATCh Follow us on Instagram @TravelLogKe Twitter: @TravelLogKe1 Facebook: Travel Log KE

Don’t be worn out by

tired tyres

While planning an off-road excursion, remember to get the correct set of wheels to navigate treacherous terrain By Gardy Chacha travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

he equator line divides Kenya right in the middle: you can fold the map into two almost equal halves. Kenya is therefore has tropical weather and its geography and geology has been a tourist attraction for decades. Should you ever want to go on a safari, Kenya gives you plenty of options. For a long time, Kenyans, mostly for economic reasons, shied away from tourism with the perception that only foreigners engaged in this leisurely activity. But the tide have now changed and more and more locals are investing time and money on vacations by taking road trips out of the cities. However, to properly enjoy this, one will need a functioning vehicle on equally good wheels. Tyres are particularly important because the out-of-town terrain can be quite tough and difficult to manoeuvre. So, what aspects of tyres should you consider? What information could come in handy in case you get a flat tyre? • The convenience of a 4x4 car Driving on untarmacked terrain, you will need to navigate through gravel, small and big stones, rugged path, hills, rivers, sand and different types of soils. To successfully drive through such landscape a 4x4 car is your best bet. Anything less and you may need to call for rescue services. Martin Makau (inset), the technical director of Speciality Tyres Kenya Limited, says: “A 4x4 has power on all wheels, making it easier for the car to move on off-road terrain.” • Type of tyre Tyres are placed in three main cate-

you have the right tyres. The tropical wild presents unique challenges and you don’t want tyres to be one of them. The temperature scale, like tyre type, is written on the tyre.

gories: HT (highway terrain), AT (allterrain) and MT (mud terrain). The HT tyre is meant for tarmac, “at least 80 per cent of driving experience is on tarmac,” says Makau. AT tyres are designed for use on tarmac – at least 60 per cent of the drive. And MT are best used when about 60 per cent of the terrain is off-road. Both AT and MT would be appropriate for an excursion in the wild. To know the specific tyre type, check for the initials HT, AT and MT: inscribed on the outer side of the tyre. • Temperature scale When manufacturers design tyres they put into consideration the geography of place it would be used. Material engineering of a tyre is done in relation to temperature. This is because tyres expand and contract with heat. “The tyre has to be able to withstand temperature ranges in a climatic zone,” Mutua says. Tyres are either class A, B or C. Class A tyres are for hot areas (the Middle East and North Africa), Class B are for normal weather (sub-Saharan Africa, majority of South America, parts of East Asia), and Class C tyres are meant to withstand cold temperatures where snow and ice are the order of the day. Tyres that are manufactured in (or imported to) Kenya are often classified A or B. Still, it is important to confirm

• Date of manufacture The date of manufacture is captured by two pairs of numbers: for example 04 19. “The first pair, 04, represents the week of manufacture, and the second pair, 19, represents year of manufacture. Hence the tyre was manufactured in the fourth week of 2019,” explains Makau. Tyres are good for use before they are 10 years old – whether used or new. “ Exposure to air, sun and other atmospheric conditions causes degradation. If it is older than 10 years, replace.” • What is your tyre’s maximum load and pressure? Every tyre comes with recommendation for maximum load [on maximum pressure]. For instance, if the tyre is written as maximum load 1380kg at 80psi it would mean that each tyre can sustain a load not higher than 1380kg, when inflated to maximum – 80psi. If you are going camping you might need to consider the total weight that will be carried by the four tyres against tyre pressure. • Self-repair kit A self-repair kit (for tubeless tyres) includes an inflator that can be connected to the car battery or cigarette lighter. • Do a pre-trip inspection According to Martin, a pre-trip inspection at a garage or a tyre centre would confirm that you have the right tyres and that all nuts, bolts and moving parts are tightened appropriately.

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DID YOU KNOW?

First Lady Margaret Kenyatta, Turkana Governor Josphat Nanok and his wife Margaret (right)during the first day of Turkana’s Tobong’u Lore Cultural Event at Ekaales Centre in Eldoret recently. [Peter Ochieng, Standard]

African tribal

headgear

The material and colours were crucial indicators of the wearer’s achievement, status and seniority in society By Travelog Writers travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

ifferent cultures used hairstyles and differently coloured headgear to announce tribal association, gender, religion, careers and social status. The sacred significance of the headdress meant that not everyone wore it. Among the plain Nilotes, these were worn only by male chiefs, and only on special ceremonial occasions. In a traditional world, the headdress was something to be earned. But in today’s world, that deep sacred meaning is eclipsed by the desire to just dress up and play or appear in Halloween events. Ordinarily, hair can just be parted down the middle, a head band or head piece worn across a forehead, worn in twist outs, or braids that have accessories woven into them, French plaits and braids. When touches of skin, feathers, wood and cowry shells are thrown in, you have a headdress with several looks. The Maasai used headgear to pronounce status and symbolise achievement, alongside colour. Red depicts bravery, strength, unity and the incredible challenges that the Maasai face. Blue stands for energy and sustenance and the colour of the sky and water. Other colours used were: green for nour-

ishment and production, representing the land that provides food for the people and their livestock whilst also symbolising the putting down of roots and the protection of one’s territory; orange which symbolises warmth, friendship, generosity and hospitality and yellow for fertility and growth. White which represents purity and health as denoted by a cow’s milk was also used. Warriors who have killed a lion traditionally wore a headdress made of the lion’s mane called “Olwaru” while those who are yet to kill their first lion, wore a headdress is made of ostrich feathers, called

A Maasai warrior wearing traditional headdress made out of a lion’s mane

Kikuyu headgear “enkuraru.” After circumcision, young men among the Samburu, Pokot, Rendille and Maasai wear the headdress made of (bright) ostrich feathers, cowry shells and beads. They are not allowed to meet women during this time and this headgear is subsequently worn until marriage. The Turkana men of North Kenya apply red crimson dye on their hair which is made from the ever-present red ochre soil. The women on the other hand wear traditional beaded necklaces and other body adornments that highlight their social status. Ceremonial robe The ‘Walai’ is a Swahili headdress, which was worn by men to signify maturity, and it was what differentiated people of It was worn, especially when heading to mosque. It is the attire that most Swahili people find religious. Tribal headgear was also visible among the Kikuyu. During the recent wedding of Anne Waiguru and Kamotho Waiganjo, the groom donned a sheep-skin hat, which is a cultural artifice. In a way this resonated with the true nature and the soul of the Kikuyu. Decades earlier, at independence, when Mzee Jomo Kenyatta was sworn in as Kenya’s First President, he wore a scintillating ceremonial robe and a headdress made from the skin of the thumbless

colobus monkey – one of Kenya’s rare and treasured primates. It is about the structuring of systems of encounter within the visual and material world of intrinsic culture. Design culture is indeed a process that describes and communicates contextual influences and contextually informed actions all in the hunt for a suitable design. How the Kikuyu came to adopt the warm fuzzy sheepskin or the fur of a colobus monkey is most definitely a product of the cold central highland climatic conditions and the marked seniority of the wearer respectively. Casting eyes across Africa, one spots the Bameleke people of the Cameroon grasslands who wear foldable hats on special occasions. Their head gear is often made from dyed chicken feathers. Today these colourful foldable feather hats are popular as an interior-designer’s accessories for adorning walls. Headgear is not just confined to hats. We have wigs, hair ornaments, razors and combs to aid in adorning the head. Overall, headgear in African culture is visible in many statues, masks and certain ceremonial staffs, depicting an engaging and laborious exercise of love!!! The authors are associated with The Home Gallery, Muthaiga. Lisa@lisachristofffersen.com and kitheka@ live.com

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DID YOU KNOW?

How well do you know your

capital?

Nairobi IG Tour, 2019

By Jimmy Mwangi travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

id you know that Nairobi wasn’t intended to be the capital city of Kenya? According to history, Voi showed the first promise in 1897, Machakos thereafter in 1908, before that right was bestowed onto Nairobi in 1912. For a local and tourist alike, there are always new things to discover as the city of contradictions hides its beauty in plain sight. A group of young Kenyans has been at the forefront of highlighting the often-overlooked monuments and new attractions. In July of 2017, the group operating under the umbrella Turnup.Travel launched its now popular Instagram Tours to create an innovative framework that brings together content creators in partnership with businesses and government institutions. The first edition was all about the history of architecture and nostalgic themed tour, which started at sunrise at UAP Old Mutual

Towers, to a waking town tour through the monuments. The invite, which accommodates anyone willing to join, sets out to create an enabling environment by reducing the bottlenecks and paperwork involved when accessing some

“I have always been fascinated at how diverse and inclusive Nairobi is. This tour presents a blank canvas to (re)discover, appreciate and learn whilst sharing the experiences on social media.”

April Long, Chinese blogger

of the capital’s points of interests. It offers incentives to photographers, filmmakers, bloggers and social media influencers to showcase the city and improve the capital’s image. The Instagram Tours enhance collaboration and skills transfer among content creators to learn through apprenticeship and offers a 24-hour itinerary taking participants through different establishments, activities and attractions in Nairobi in themed tours. Besides the fun and networking, Turnup. Travel, through their triple bottom line approach, also donates proceeds to Homeless of Nairobi to go towards rehabilitation of former street children and provide education and upkeep. With four successful IG Tours under their belt, the group is on course for their biggest tour

05:30hrs: Assembly at GTC Chiromo Lane 06:00hrs: Catch the sunrise at Global Trade Centre - East Africa’s newest tallest building 07:30hrs: Dim Sum at Yuanzhiyuan Chinese restaurant and live demo cooking 10:00: Cultural immersion through art and heritage tour at Nairobi National Museum 13:00hrs: Lunch at Pan Asian Yao in Gigiri 14:00hrs: Showcase of art at China Garden- Calligraphy, Pipa music and Kong Fu Tai Chi 15:00hrs: Sundowner and cocktail at GTC 19:00hrs: Nightlife Experience that includes a regular ticket to Konshens live-inconcert in Nairobi. yet. The fifth tour themed ‘New Perspectives’ is designed around tenets of cultural diplomacy by creating a framework to unlock opportunities for cooperation, collaboration among creators and enhance relationships. Are you ready for a 24-hour city tour? On Saturday, September 7, from 6am for only Sh6,000 you can join the next Instagram Tour. The package includes transport, meals, entry fees plus a ticket to watch Jamaican dancehall artiste Konshens perform live in Nairobi.

The Standard

ABROAD

Windhoek: Where every day is a Sun-Day With a populaton of just 300,000, Namibia‘s capital is mostly deserted like a ghost town By Tony Mochama Different sights of Namibia’s capital city, Windhoek. [Courtesy] travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

verybody goes to South Africa. Just go to the VFS – Visa Application Centre on Nairobi, any weekday, and half the folks there are applying for visas to South Africa. In fact if you do a quick Google search on the Kenya Airways website, one of the very first items at the top of the page is “Kenya-Airways.com – Fly to Johannesburg”! But 1,163 kilometres North West of Johannesburg’s or Tambo International Airport is the Hosea Kutako International Airport of Namibia. A return flight costs $250 (Sh25,000), which is about the same amount you’d pay for a return flight from Nairobi to Dar es Salaam. Once you arrive at Hosea Kutako Airport, there are the usual ‘Rent-a-Car’ companies, like Avis and Hertz, at the airport, for car hire or taxi rides. The hour drive through a road that cuts like a ribbon through scrub, thorn and bushland, is mostly occupied by lodg-

es like Ondekaremba or giant ranches like Etango Ranch guest house. You may want to fill up your car at Puma Gas before the drive into the city, as out there in the Ondekaremba, there’s all sorts of wild animals roaming around freely on the road . One almost expects to see a Coca Cola bottle to fall out from the sky – and to be caught by that Khoisan bushman called N!xau from the famous classic film ‘The Gods Must Be Crazy’ that was set here in Namibia, and was a worldwide hit in the 1980s. No skycrapers Once you get into the actual city of Windhoek, one surprising feature is do not expect to be met by any skyscrapers. I chose to stay at Casa Africana, a genteel hotel, which costs about Sh30,000 for a five-day stay (or Sh6,000 a day). Had I added some Sh100,000 to that overall budget, all of Heinitzburg Castle Hotel across the street from my pension could have been mine for the

week. Instead, I experienced every single sunset of my stay on this rooftop pool balcony with its majestic views of Windhoek, a small quiet city, from where I could see the presidential palace on an opposite hill as well as the hill that hides the ‘township’ where the poor black workers of Windhoek live. The street I was staying on, Heinitzburg Street, is sandwiched between the drive named after Namibian Independence hero Sam Nujoma and Robert Mugabe Avenue. I learn that the former deposed president of Zimbabwe has a ranch on the outskirts of the city, gifted to him by the post-independence government of Namibia for his support throughout the 1980s during the apartheid war here until ‘uhuru’ came in 1990.

In spite of that, German Namibians who number a mere 4,000 still own half the arable land in this country with a total population of 2.4 million people. This explains why Windhoek is so clean and quiet, and trafﬁc jams here are non-existent. There is a craft market in the square between the Hilton Hotel and Avani Casino hotel where one can buy curios and souvenirs. You can chill out at the Zoo Park, or visit the Independence Museum just opposite the Goethe Institute of Windhoek in Namibia. I personally preferred hanging out at a place called ‘Nyama Choma,’ which I at ﬁrst assumed was owned by a Kenyan. Turns out ‘Choma’ in Ovambo, a Namibian dialect, means ‘chum,’ as in friend. So ‘nyama choma’ in this context meant ‘Meat Friends’ (friends who like meat). And we ate meat and drank lots Windhoek beer. Driving back to the Casa Africana through the chilly Windhoek night, one can’t help but notice how deserted the streets of Windhoek are. In fact, you’ll be lucky to see anyone. That sense of an ‘empty country’ persisted to the following morning. It was a Wednesday, but the eerie quietness – which I soon got used to, and even appreciated – felt like a Sunday morning. A Sunday morning on a public holiday where everyone has gone out of town. But for a peaceful break, nothing beats Windhoek. This is because it has the second lowest city/town population density in the world, after Mongolia’s capital, Ulaanbaatar. But Ulaanbaatar is also the world’s coldest capital, You’d rather go to Windhoek, if your idea of a holiday is peace, quiet, rest and relaxation.

The Standard

Some 1.5 million water birds have found a home at the lakes in the Great Rift Valley

Lake natron, the flamingos’ breeding nest.

By Jayne Rose Gacheri travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

sn’t it amazing that once you make family vacations a routine they become so much fun that within a short time you get hooked? Whenever an opportunity to travel arises, I grab it without a second thought. So, on this particular occasion, Toya my 16-year-old daughter and I are set to travel to Nakuru County to see the “little pink princesses” (her name for the flamingos). We have been to this destination many times, but she still finds it exciting. We particularly enjoy the safari drives, watching the monkeys and baboons do their tricks, and encountering the rare dik-diks. The mere sight of the sensational flamingos is quite exhilarating. There is always something special about the protected areas of Nakuru. Captivating experience Nakuru District within the Great Rift Valley is home to Lake Nakuru National Park, which was world-renowned for its pink and white flamingos. Other animals found in the sanctuary include the black rhino and a multitude of other game. In Lake Elementaita and adjacent Soysambu Ranch, we are swept away by the amazing diversity of birds, animals and vegetation– splendour of big game and birds in their natural envi-

The spectacular flamingos of Rift Valley ronment. As we drive through the park, it is evident that the Friends of Lakes Nakuru and Elementaita (a conservation group) have been working hard to preserve the two major eco-systems – the aquatic and terrestrial- that are found within the park. Lake nakuru for instance, area covering over 188 kilometres boasts of over 150 different plant species and over 500 bird species. As we descend to the lowest point of the park and get to Lake Nakuru, a catchment area of about 200 square kilometres, “Aren’t they a beauty?” Toya asks delightedly. Indeed, many visiting orni-

thologists have described this sight as the greatest bird spectacle in the world. This is what is referred to as the “Great Flamingo Migration. Just like the Great Wildebeest Migration in the Mara, if you want to enjoy a spectacular display by the millions pink and white flamingos, you must visit during the migration times (between May to November for the flamingos). Vagabonds of the Valley Flamingos are the vagabonds of the eco-system in the Great Rift Valley. These birds live in any of the saline lakes scattered in Rift Valley – Lake

The Standard

migration special: air

Fact file: These birds live in any of the saline lakes scattered in Rift Valley – Lake Elementaita, Lake Nakuru and Lake Baringo – all of which have been declared Unesco World Heritage sites

Lake Bogoria, the birds’ ‘dinner table’.

Migration of flamingos happens every year in Kenya, from April through June, from Lake Nakuru to Lake Natron. It is estimated that these birds consume about 160 tonnes of weed in a day. Two-thirds of the world’s populations of these water birds are found in Southern and East Africa, as they require a highly specialised habitat and diet.

Elementaita, Lake Nakuru and Lake Baringo – all of which have been declared Unesco World Heritage sites. At times, the waders will fly to and from countries as far as apart as Malawi and Palestine – the Great Rift Valley extends between these countries or might migrate to Lake Solai or Lake Natron inTanzania. The longevity of the flamingos’ sojourn in any of the lakes and countries depends on availability of food in the host lakes. Lake Nakuru is the dining table to the flamingos while Lake Natron is the “maternity” (breeding). The waders prefer Lake Natron as their “maternity” because the lake has muddy shores where they build their nests. The rest of the Rift Valley lakes have sandy shores. The flamingos are not migratory by nature and only do so when necessary. They feed on blue-green algae,

which grows well in clear water. This means the surrounding of the lake must provide fresh water. Environmental experts say that when the surrounding of the lake is contaminated, it causes siltation, which inhibits algae growth. Siltation and the dirt also make it difficult for the birds to fly after feeding. Endangered eco-system The 1990s settlement of more than 60,000 people by the state in a 30,000 hectare piece of land curved out of forestland in the Eastern Mau area, a vital catchment basin for the lake made the lives of the flamingos a “living hell”. Human activity removed vegetation cover from the catchment areas and led to increased siltation at the lake through feeder rivers. This imbalance led to the death of the flamingos in their thousands due to stress, starvation and food poisoning. Many of the surviving ones fled to Lake Elementaita and Lake Baringo only to face starvation as the two lakes do not have sufficient food. Spectacular display All the flamingos in East Africa fly in massive ‘V’ formations when heading for their preferred breeding area in Tanzania’s Lake Natron.

It’s an exceptional sight of about 1.5 million long-legged, pink-feathered birds taking off in an almighty surge from the surface of the lake, revealing the blue water beneath their crowded wings. The birds migrate in unison between the alkaline lakes in the East African Rift Valley as food sources are depleted and breeding season arrives. Flamingos have unique features – stunning pink in colour, oddly shaped, tall, and have stilted legs with knees that bend backwards with every step taken. They are among the most iconic birds on the planet. Lesser flamingos are differentiated from their greater relatives by rosier feathers, a darker beak and crimson legs, while their slightly smaller size can only really be identified when the two sub-species are seen together. Two-thirds of the world’s populations of these water birds are found in southern and East Africa, as they require a highly specialised habitat and diet. The birds rely on unique environments to lay their eggs, meaning that a positive change in their ‘nearthreatened’ status depends entirely on their environment. Lake Natron was for ages the chosen nesting spot for all East Africa’s flamingos, with couples producing just one chalky

egg at a time. However, industrial development has polluted the water source, making Lake Natron, one of only three breeding sites in southern and eastern Africa, unsuitable. Although the gorgeous lesser flamingos are the main attraction of Lake Nakuru, be sure to see a range of other bird species, especially white pelicans, as well as other wildlife around Lake Nakuru National Park. There are just a few spots on our planet which can boast of a colony of 1.5 million flamingos. Preservation of the waders So, if we want to enjoy the stunning pink and white carpet-like display at Lake Nakuru, more efforts to preserve the ecosystems must be employed. This will enable the algae to grow fast in order to sustain the flamingos that migrate to Lake Nakuru. It is estimated that these birds consume about 160 tonnes of weed in a day. Enough sources of algae will keep the flamingo migration patterns alive. But, there is light at the end of the tunnel, as stakeholders are working in partnership with the government in a 10-year strategic management that involves the community around the lake to bring a balance between nature and human development outside the lake through education and public sensitization. Reports indicate that there has been a slight improvement in the amount of garbage dumped into the water, hence improving on the sustainability of the flamingos. Thumbs up to all involved!

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HOt list

Are these Mara’s top Safari guides? By Peter Muiruri travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

Their remarkable skills in touring have earned them global accoloades

our guides are among the most versatile people you will ever come across, as their job description at any given time, can require them to switch from being drivers to wildlife experts. They are supposed to solve any problem that a visitor may encounter while on safari and are expected to “produce” lions or other choice sighting. We talk to a few who are among Masai Mara’s top-rated guides.

Jackson Looseyia

Johnson Pingua Nkukuu He is known simply as ‘Ping”and is one of the guides named Conde Nast’s Best 25 Safari Guides in Africa. This is credit to his uncanny ability to predict animal behaviour, making him legendary for predicting the perfect position during high-drama wildlife episodes. Ping says he came from a family that had little value for education. In fact, he used to run away every time government officials visited his home to look for children who were not yet enrolled in school. “One day, I hid inside a calves’ pen together with my mother. After a

Paul Kirui Paul Kirui, a tour guide for 29 years, was born on the outskirts of the Maasai Mara Game Reserve. In his youth, he learnt how to track, interpret signs and animal alarm calls as necessity tools for survival. He sharpened his skills at the Kenya Wildlife

long search, the officials snatched me from the pen and took me to school by force,” he recalls. His early days in guiding included a long stint guiding for CC Africa, which had an outstanding training programme that included a stint in South Africa. Ping was recruited to help Disney create and open their Animal Kingdom Park in Florida, USA. This allowed him to experience American lifestyle and increase his knowledge of cultures from around the world. Johnson is one of the partners at Enaidura Mobile Camp.

Training Institute, Utalii College, and Inqwazi Rangers’ School in South Africa. Among his highlights include working with the BBC Natural History unit since 2006 as an animal behaviour consultant, specialising in leopard tracking, the Big Cat Week and Big Cat Live programs, and Disney filming of African Cats in 2009/10. Kirui is a specialist birder and pioneer of the Mara Vulture Research Project in conjunction with the Department of Ornithology at the National Museums and the Peregrine Fund. He was listed by travel magazine Conde Nast Travel as one of the 25 best guides in Africa in December 2013. He is one of the few gold-level guides in Kenya, the second to attain this qualification. Kirui is a part-time lecturer at Koiyaki Guiding School in Maasai Mara and a Certified Professional Photographer. He has also won the Eco-Warrior Best Guide Award in Kenya for two consecutive years.

Jackson Looseyia is one of Kenya’s wellknown safari guides with over 25 years of experience. Born in 1967 in the heart of Maasai Mara where he was surrounded by wild animals, he comes from a long line of renowned hunters and game trackers. Looseyia’s father was a famous hunter who took him into the bush for six months of training, venturing into lion and hyena dens. “My late old-man would point out fresh buffalo footprints and show me which trees we could climb in the event we were under attack,” Looseyia told a global magazine. Looseyia is a devoted conservationist who established Lemek Community Conservancy. He shot to fame after working with BBC’s Big Cat Diaries where he enthralled the global audience with his in-depth knowledge of the Maasai Mara ecosystem and the Kenyan wildlife in general. “I believe strongly in passing knowledge on to others,” he says.

29 HOt list

Sophie Sadera

Lorna Nabaala “Are you the guide?” is the most frequent question that Lorna Seela Nabaala is asked whenever she welcomes visitors to the vehicle. Nabaala is perhaps the first native Maasai woman safari guide in the Maasai Mara. Until recently, it appeared as if there was an unspoken rule that the work of being safari guides was reserved for men. In the midst of close to 500 safari guides in the Mara, Nabaala is among the few women to break that glass ceiling, having been in the industry for close to 11 years now. “I am among a small but growing number of women trying to change that perception. When I began my

career, most of my male counterparts discouraged me saying this work is not cut out for a woman. I had to work extra hard to prove them wrong. I wanted to change the view and show that women can be tour guides,” says Nabaala. Nabaala was born and raised in Lemek area of the Masai Mara and trained at the prestigious Koiyaki Guiding School. Here, she got the masterly of the local flora and fauna, solid survival skills, communication skills as well as what she terms “an unfledgling sense of humour.” In 2017, she was named Africa’s Most Influential Woman in Tourism and Leisure. She continues to mentor other young women at the school, reminding them that anything is possible. “If I am doing it, why not you?”

Sophie Naserian Sadera is a professional safari guide working at Angama Mara Lodge, one of the most luxurious hotels in the Mara. She was born and raised in outskirts of Maasai Mara between Naboisho and Emotorogi conservancies and grew up in a society dominated by men. “I ventured into a career that may have seemed taboo to many women. Having coming from a community dominated by men, I had to break protocol to become not only the breadwinner but also one of the very few female guides in the industry,” she says. Having worked in some of the most beautiful resorts in the Mara, Naserian says she has played a pivotal role towards motivating the girl child. “Over the years I have learnt that there are and will be many challenges for a girl to thrive in the society that I come from. I am a true example of what one can become through sheer determination and endurance. I hope to make the world a better place for all girls,” she adds. Like Lorna, Sophie trained at Koyiaki Guiding School before a six-month stint at Mwewe Training School. She too faces the stereotypical nuances where a few people do not want to be guided by women. Still, she has earned the recognition as the Best Female Guide in the Mara by Public Radio International (PRI’s).

THE CONNOISSEUR

By Jimmy Mwangi travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

he Nairobi Golf Simulator/Club Fitting Studio located in Rossyln Riviera Mall, Limuru Road is a one-of-a-kind indoor golf simulator in the region, employing technology used by PGA pros for their practice. It is the most trusted technology in golf with real clubs and real balls. The fully interactive practice and club-fitting modes allow golfers to practice on the virtual driving range. This Golf Simulator accommodates golf leagues, fundraisers, private events and corporate meetings. Travelog spoke to the resident golf-fitting specialist, Patrick Njuguna. What is the biggest misconception Kenyans have about golf? Many people assume that golf is for a select well-to do, or for old retirees with plenty of time on their hands. The reality is that everyone can play golf and this simulator aims at proving that as long as you are healthy, golf has no age limit. What does a golf-fitting specialist do? A fitting specialist does swing analysis for golfers with different clubs to determine the right length, head, shaft, loft, lie-angle and grip of clubs. They must be certified by the golf brands to do custom club fitting. I, for instance, am a Ping certified custom golffitter with a decade experience trained in Arizona, USA.

Bust balls like a pro Golf-ﬁtting specialist uses cutting-edge technology and real sports gear in a virtual setting to ﬁt the right club for that perfect swing

Why should a player be fitted? To avoid frustrations on the golf course it is very important to get fitted. A large number of bad shots and eventually poor scores can be attributed to a golfer using non-fitted clubs. Golf clubs comes in different sizes, thus proper fitting helps a golfer make proper impact on the length of the club and lie-angle of the club head. The length of the club is important because if it is too long, the golfer is more likely to struggle making contact at the centre of the clubface. As the club gets shorter, it becomes easier

to control during the swing. Lie of the clubface is also very important so that the clubface sits with the sole or footprint of the club ﬂat on the ground. That way the clubface is in perfect position for impact and strikes the golf ball in the correct direction to go to its target. How many simulators are there in the country and how is yours different? While their exists other golf simulators locally, our indoor golf simulator is one of its kind in

the region. Our Foresight GC2 and 1 Foresight GC2 technology uses a stereoscopic pair of ultra-high speed cameras to directly measure the movement of the golf ball at impact. Its launch monitors give ball and club data with utmost accuracy and reliability. Because of their accuracy, they are also used by world-renowned instructors including Butch Harmon, the world’s top golf teacher, at the Butch Harmon School of Golf. Does one need to reserve the simulator in advance or can I just walk-in? We strongly recommend that you reserve a simulator at least 24 hours in advance to make sure you secure a spot. What are the costs involved? An hour of game play, for instance, ranges from Sh1,000 while golf coaching by a professional goes for Sh2,500 an hour. What keeps you going? The feeling I get when someone I have coached or ﬁtted informs me that they have won their ﬁrst trophy, is indescribable.

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MADE IN KENYA

Nyumba Cinema: Rent a theatre An exclusive luxury theatre experience that gives viewers control over their content By Jimmy Mwangi travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

eak 2000s was an era to remember thanks to the popular television programme MTV Cribs whose theme was a display of, mostly ﬂashy, homes of celebrities. One episode that stuck in the minds of many was the show that was hosted by rapper and entrepreneur Curtis Jackson, popularly known by his stage name 50 Cent. So wildly expansive and extravagant was his house that while the show routinely featured three homes in one episode, his took up the entire show. Once owned by boxing legend Mike Tyson, the estate sits on 17.6 acres of land and boasts 19 bedrooms and 35 bathrooms. While most the customised features of the house were largely impractical (like the life size-night club and multiple game rooms including two billiards rooms), some were

Santai Kimakeke and Jodie Collins, the brains behind Nyumba Cinema. [David Gichuru, Standard]

quite workable. One of these was the private movie theatre with a database of over 3, 000 movie titles. If you have ever tried shepherding an entire family to a public movie theatre then you know how taxing it can get especially if kids are involved. For starters, you may have to make more than one trip out of the cinema hall for a bathroom break or for snacks. You can be sure that there is no chance of a rewind in case you have missed a

scene. It is also considered impolite to LOL or crack jokes while the movie is running. Unfortunately, not everyone can afford to own their own movie theatre. Enter Nyumba Cinema, your very own exclusive luxury movie theatre where you can enjoy a cinema experience in private with no strangers or interruptions. You decide what you want to watch, and when.

Brand inspiration Santai Kimakeke and Jodie

Collins had always dreamt of owning their own business. Santai’s love for the English Premier League helped birth this idea. Every fan knows how having a great place to watch with friends enhances the experience. Jodie, a Canadian, has always had a passion for a good viewing experience. The idea for an exclusive cinema business arose one day when they were trying to take two young kids to watch a movie - amidst their tight working schedules. It was not easy considering the timings of cinema halls. The two found themselves discussing about having a space that could be rented any time, and where children could be brought without inconveniencing anyone. Days later, the idea kept popping up and they realised they may be onto something. It helped that the use of streaming sources like Netﬂix and Amazon Prime had began taking ﬂight, so all that was required now was the space. Comfort, the latest tecnology, and exclusivity were priority as they set out to build a private, luxury streaming experience. The duo hoped to attract those who wanted the quality of a traditional movie theatre, but in a space and atmosphere that feels just like homehence ‘Nyumba Cinema’.

The location: Nyumba Cinema is located on the third ﬂoor of Rosslyn Rivi-

era Mall between Nairobi Hospital and Fonda Restaurant. It is a space that one can feel at home with family, friends, or colleagues and get lost in the art of the cinema. It is perfect for romance, that ‘Big Game’ and other live events. Come ready with what you want to watch.Alternatively the crew at Nyumba Cinema can assist you with amazing choices. This venue lets you playback content in various digital formats. Hungry or thirsty? No problem, help yourself to their concession stand or order from one of the many restaurants located at the mall.

The price point: Starting at Sh2, 500 an hour, you can rent this venue and enjoy your content. Hourly rates account for the entire theatre, not per person. Bookings can be made online and one should show up ten minutes before the scheduled time.

Ultimate Goal: The hosts of this Kenyan ‘crib’ hope to make a luxury viewing experience accessible to anyone and everyone. This ideally points to expanding to different neighbourhoods, in a safe, fun, and comfortable venue. They also hope to give ﬁlmmakers or workshop hosts an intimate space to show their latest work or for special screenings.

Website: thegreatestmaasaimara.com

Image courtesy of The Greatest Maasai Mara Photographer of the Year

Instagram: @flerrieoo7

Camp

Guided by: Joseph Njapit, Zebra Plains Mara

Photographer: Lee-Anne Robertson

1/2500

Details: Canon 1DX, @ 400mm, ISO 640, 2.8,

Dramatic image of a lion snuffing the life out of a wildebeest; a meal the cat needs for its sustenance.

LIFE AND DEATH SITUATION

SHOOTING SCENE

SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 7, 2019 The Standard