Travelog October 2020 by Standard Group PLC

#JIONEE KENYA

NOT FOR SALE

OCTOBER 2020

Frontier Kenya

The Standard

EDITOR’S NOTE

ABROAD Pg 29

T SAVVY TRAVELLER Pg 21

MIXOLOGIST Pg 20

WILDLIFE ENCOUNTERS Pg 16 EDITOR-IN-CHIEF: Ochieng Rapuro GROUP EXECUTIVE EDITOR AND HEAD OF NEWS: Kipkoech Tanui MANAGING EDITOR: Denis Galava/ John Bundotich I EDITOR: Thorn Mulli REVISE EDITOR: Clay Muganda PRODUCTION EDITOR: Kennedy Mureithi EDITOR, PARTNERSHIPS AND PROJECTS: Andrew Kipkemboi MANAGER, PRINT CREATIVE: Dan Weloba DESIGNERS: Amusolo Odima, Fred Monda, Liz Wanjiku, Virginia Borura CONTRIBUTORS: Caroline Chebet, Gardy Chacha, Gerald Githingi, Ivy Waridi, James Wanzala, Jayne

Rose Gacheri, Peter Muiruri, Peris Wambugu, Richard Kitheka, Travel Buff Vivianne Wandera, PHOTOGRAPHY: David Gichuru, MarkDenver Karubiu Registered at the GPO as a newspaper. The Standard is printed and published by the proprietors THE STANDARD GROUP PLC Email: travelog@standardmedia.co.ke Follow us on Instagram: @TravelogKe Twitter: @TravelogMag Facebook: TravelogKe Website: travelog.ke

A whole new word

he pandemic, in my view, has brought out the best and the worst in us. I will not dwell on the negative, epitomized best by the greed a few individuals have exhibited lately, but will instead concentrate on the rays of hope. The advancement of domestic tourism is something we can be proud of. Granted, it has been the all-time toughest season for Kenya’s tourism industry. On the bright side, however, the dark turn provided a chance to appreciate what we have taken for granted for so long. The extended lockdown, especially, forced us to reflect and volteface priorities to better cope in a fast-changing world. Let us be brutally honest-most of us were stuck in a rut, cozying in comfort spaces whose walls were fast closing in. It is time to innovate or die It is a fact that Kenyans are travelling their country more today than ever. With the threats to our health lurking in every corner, our best bet is nature’s medicine. In the shadow of a respiratory scourge, the lungs of the capital, Nairobi National Park and Ngong forest, have recorded the best numbers since independence. The wildebeests of Masai Mara have also witnessed the biggest migration of domestic tourists than they care for. We have our ear on the beat and present our most practical issue yet highlighting off-the-beaten destinations and activities within our borders for your reading pleasure. Included are tips on how to do it on a budget. We are privileged to share our experiences from some parts of our nation

whose remarkable splendor you would never imagine. Imagine hand feeding an endangered species, sliding in cool pools on the edge of Kenya’s only true desert, drinking from the ship of the desert or embarking on a pilgrimage to Africa’s faith capital. We promise to paint a different picture of frontier Kenya. Mirroring the recovering industry, we also feature the inspiring account of a mother who is educating Kenyans on how to travel on a budget. Read about how the social media travel community she has created helped her overcome Covid-19. If you prefer to do it yourself then flip on for your fix. Even as we celebrate our improving fortunes, I hope we will respect these spaces whose importance we now appreciate. It is disheartening to see travelers behaving badly. It does not cost you anything to clean up after yourself, be kind to your hosts or adhere to rules especially in protected areas. Mother Nature is forgiving and rewards baby steps gladly in ways you cannot fathom. We cannot do it all alone and welcome your contributions and ideas on how to better improve this product. Oh, if you missed the Twende Nanyuki-Mwisho wa Reli tarin of fun, make sure to keep up with us on our website solution www.travelog.ke and on our social media handles for details on our next trip.

Thorn Mulli

The Standard [David Gichuru]

TWENDE NANYUKI-MWISHO WA RELI

Commuters wait to board the train from Thika to Nanyuki in a travel experience sponsored by Standard Group Plc’s Travelog, Laikipia County, Kenya Railways and Laikipia accomodation providers

From Left: Head of Conservancy Samuel Mutisya, Serena Sweetwaters Camp Manager Felix Ogembo, and Governor of Laikipia County, Muriithi Ndiritu Muriithi live on KTN News

Locomotive handlers in high spirits ahead of the test commuter service of the revamped Thika-Nanyuki railway line.

Left: Dorothy Mutisya and her children feed blind rhino-Baraka-at Ol Pejeta conservancy Top: The two last-known remaining northern white rhinos - Fatu and Najin relish the attention

NOW TRAVEL READY [MarkDenver Karubiu ] 1

Travel influencers took Diani by storm recently and our eyes caught some of the action. 1. Pillipa Dhow’s instructor Jacob Murungi leads from the divingfront at KJisite Mpunguti Marine Park 2. Founder member of TurnUp Travel, Brian Gatimu, has need for speed courtesy Jet Ski Kenya 3. Travel writer Wendy Watta couldn’t resist the allure of Sheldrick Fall in Shimba Hills National Reserve 4. Photographer MarkDenver Karubiu takes to the dirt trails with Xplore Diani in Galu, Diani 5. Magunga Williams and Judy Cheptoo enjoy a romantic date at Swahili Beach Hotel

The Standard

SPLENDID SPACES Follow us on Instagram: @TravelogKe Twitter: @TravelogMag Facebook: Travelog Ke Website: travelog.ke

Pelican House might be the best base to explore the gateway to the north

elican House is the perfect place to enjoy downtime with friends and family. Overlooking the serene Pelican Dam, this cosy all-inclusive or self-catering cottage sleeps eight but can sleep 12 on request. Located in the east of the Conservancy, Pelican House is within easy reach of some of Ol Pejeta’s best wild experiences – including the Sweetwaters Chimpanzee Sanctuary, Baraka the blind black rhino, and Morani’s Restaurant. The Pelican Dam is frequently visited by a variety of wildlife, especially in the dry season. The verandah looks out over the tranquil water and is the perfect spot to enjoy breakfast with the dawn chorus, or a well-deserved sundowner after a day’s safari. Pelican House is the perfect base to explore Ol Pejeta and gives you the freedom to make and change your own itineraries. Guests have the option of either bringing their own food or taking upthe fully catered option at a cost Sh5,500 per person per night / Sh3,500 per child per night (i.e. lunch, dinner and breakfast) – this rate does not include drinks. The kitchen has a five-burner gas cooker with an electric oven and fridge/freezer. There is a housekeeper on hand to help with housework, and a cook available at an additional cost (Sh3,500 per day) who will help with breakfast, lunch and dinner. Enjoy 50 per cent off conservancy entrance, 20 per cent off accommodation booked at The Stables, Pelican House and Camping. Offer valid till October 31.

Laikipia’s finest

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The Standard

SPLENDID SPACES Follow us on Instagram: @TravelogKe Twitter: @TravelogMag Facebook: Travelog Ke Website: travelog.ke

www.kongonicamp.com

Maiyan is a Maasai word meaning God’s blessing and the development draws its inspiration from 3 elements:

Situated less than 2km from Nanyuki town, off Meru Rd. Kongoni Camp Hotel has beautiful views of the Mountains and is a hub for trekkers climbing the sirimoni and burgundy routs as well as a great stop over for visitors to and from various game parks in laikipia.

Blessing | Harmony | Excellence. The property is situated 5 Kms off the Nanyuki Dol-Dol road, 20 Kms north of Nanyuki town. Tel: +254 708 183 328 / +254 796 577 597 E: sales@maiyan.co.ke

Acacia Villas

Mount Kenya Wildlife conservancy is 5 km from Acacia Villas while Ol pejeta wildlife conservancy is 27Km away. The nearest airport is Nanyuki Airstrip, 11 km from the accommodation.

For booking: 0722 312 300

SWIMMING I MOUNTAIN CLIMBING I SAFARI WALK I BIRD WATCHING I IRISH SPA GAME DRIVES I CANOPY WALK I CAVING I BAR & RESTAURANT I INTERNATIONAL CUISINE KongoniCampNanyuki

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The perfect get-away for the whole family

Acacia Villas Feature garden views, Free WiFi and Free parking, located in Nanyuki, 26 Km from Mount Kenya National park.

Guest at the villa can enjoy cycling nearby or make the most of the garden.

Kongoni Camp restaurant and bar, is reknown for excellent cuisine ranging from fantastic grills, vegetarian dishes, pizzas made in their VTCFKVKQPCN +VCNKCP UV[NG YQQF ƒ TGF QXGP

PEAKS HOTEL, NANYUKI

Nanyuki

Each unit comes with a patio, full equipped kitchen with a fridge, seating area with a sofa, flat screen TV, a washing machine and a private bathroom with a shower and free toiletries.

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Peaks Hotel Nanyuki is situated 3 kms from Nanyuki town centre, along the Nanyuki – Meru/ Isiolo Highway. We are a unique destination for business, leisure, family outings, or stopover for travellers. Our facilities are friendly to nursing mothers and the physically challenge.

Our rooms have floor to ceiling windows which let in natural light and fresh air. We have carefully selected eco-friendly wood and bamboo flooring for the warmth and comfort of every guest. The Rooftop is our jewel in the crown as it offers serene and fantastic view of the three peaks – Mount Kenya, the Aberdare Ranges, and the Lolldaiga Hills.

Download our App today from App Store or Google Play store or call us on: +254 746 615 151 See how smooth the ride will be!

Those looking for a quiet place to relax will certainly be at home on our Rooftops. Friends can also catch up over a drink and light meals as they enjoy nature at its best.

For booking and reservations, call us: 0711 969 690 or visit our website: www.peakshotels.co.ke

The Standard

TRAVEL TALK Follow us on Instagram: @TravelogKe Twitter: @TravelogMag Facebook: Travelog Ke Website: travelog.ke

A tale at sea-level By Gerald Githingi travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

It is my fifth month in Mombasa and Kilifi counties and I haven’t seen a mermaid. I haven’t seen a hooved woman sitting cross-legged perched near a counter in Casablanca or Bella Vista, or Sabasaba or Kandara in Mtwapa sipping a crystalline drink. I haven’t seen a cat that talks to you. That meows and says, “I’m Fatuma from Tudor”. Nevertheless, I have seen a stubborn cat that pouts at you. I haven’t seen a fish that winks at you, but I have seen a roasted octopus sold at a kibanda in Likoni and was dumbfounded when I was told it cures indigestion and boosts libido. I keep wondering which of the two I might be suffering from. I have also seen a fern planted in a bottle of water placed in the middle of the road that causes a traffic jam because no one is brave enough to remove it. No one wants to run cuckoo like the guy who snatched a phone at

Mwembe Tayari and who now chats with ghosts. I haven’t dipped my legs in the dancing waters of the ocean, but I have seen the ripples; the waves when the wind runs its fingers over the skin of the ocean. I have seen girls dressed in fewer clothes than Eve. And men with longer beards than a lion’s mane or Adam’s ponytail asking me, “Kaka nauza mnazi na bangi pia, unataka gani?” I have been drenched in sweat while going to work and felt like my nose is peeling off when I wipe globules of sweat with my palm. I have slept naked the way nature intended a man to live for the second time in my life. Don’t ask about the first time. I have drunk bottles of water and now my house looks like a light industry in Kariobangi that specialises in illegal water packaging. I have seen the underbelly of these two counties. It’s unbelievable, shocking and eye-opening. It’s part of my work. It has pulled the veil exposing the basket of secrets in this society and any other society in the country. Here, albeit slowly, the community is trying to unbury its head from the sand, an inch at a time. What many societies have classified as taboo, sometimes distasteful, is buttering my bread. And I’m loving it. After all, matters sex and sexuality can either resolve a conflict or ignite one. I have, just yesterday, learned the difference between sex and gender. The former is defined by what’s located below your waistline, most times.

Either you’re categorised as a male, female or intersex at birth based on your below-the-midriff anatomy. The latter is in your brain. You can either self-identify as a male, female or other (transgender or gender non-conforming). Gender identity answers the question, how much do you feel like a man, a woman or something else? In your inner self, if you’re a man, you could be feeling a lot like a woman or something else. Or you could feel like none of these. A very interesting topic. I have my small den of privacy, rest and meditation situated at the middle of three mosques. Two real ones and one imagined. The muezzin from the first mosque wakes me up at around 4.30am with his sharp voice. He pauses a lot too, then picks it up so suddenly. He startles me every time. It irritates me. So when I wake up, I adjust my pillow, straighten my bedsheets then am back to sleep. The second one is around 5.30am. This guy is soothing, very soothing that I only wake up for a second to swat a mosquito. I visited the third mosque. I had just wandered and thought, what the heck? Let me pray. I removed my shoes, and surprisingly I knew what I was supposed to do. Just when I thought I was doing it right, this guy comes and asks my name. Stupid me, and with a grin, I said Gatheru instead of Ali. He creased his face. I woke up. Can a non-Muslim visit a mosque for an inquiry?

The Standard

Ambassador Javier Garcia de Viedma Ensuring that there are direct flights between Kenya and Spain my priority By Travel Buff travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

have been a diplomat for almost 30 years having started my career in 1991. I’ve worked in postwar Kuwait, Chile, then Madrid, worked in the UN headquarters in New York, moved to Peru where I was a consular general, headed to Israel where I was the deputy ambassador before returning to Madrid where I was director for United Nations. As fate would have it, this is not only my first appointment as an ambassador but it is also my maiden posting to Africa. I have been inNairobi for two and half years with my mandate covering Somalia, Uganda and the UN. My first time in Kenya experience I came to Kenya in January 2017. It was my first time in the country but second time in Africa having celebrated my honeymoon in South Africa, Tanzania and Zanzibar. I had this sort of exotic idea of Kenya as I had read a lot about the country and watched many documentaries too. My first impression, when my wife and I first landed, was that Kenya

DIPLOMATS‘ LENS Follow us on Instagram: @TravelogKe Twitter: @TravelogMag Facebook: Travelog Ke Website: travelog.ke

Facts ab out Spain Park. It is so refreshing Spain is E watching the animals. ond large uropean Union’s st People tend to think that s measure country after Fran ecs up at a ce. It Nairobi is just a stopover ro s u q n u d are kilo How the pandemic has affected Spain 506,0 but I insist that Nairobi the Cana meters if one inc 00 ry Islands ludes As you know, Covid-19 has affected Spain has an interesting soul and the S territorie pan sa and other European countries tremendously. that bears a hint of the percoastline long the North A ish frican . The tourism sector has being badly damsonality of the entire counaged and this is very serious for a country c It is one of the w try. I would encourage touro o that receives more than 80 million tourists a untries by Cov rst affected ism players to invest more id 19 ha pproxima ving in Nairobi as a tourist attracte per year earning than 100 billion euros s ly 8 10 , 000 infec and 32, 3 ti 6 from it. being on 3 deaths with M on- tion in terms of gastronomy, e of the adrid the park experience, and hism re o g st affecte ion. Their My favorite place to visit in Spain tory and try to create things b d o rd e rs 21st June reopened this Spain has many incredible places to on that tourists can engage in. Accordin year. g to the 2 visit. Apart from the well-known destina- 26 While the Mara is the most 019 ,3 tions (Madrid, Barcelona, Andalusia, the pa 98 tourists visited statistics, famous place to visit, I am parre S Canary and Balearic Islands), I would 00 d to 2018 when pain comticularly drawn to Amboseli 0. we had 2 5, and its views of the Kilimanjaro. recommend the North West part of Spain: Galicia, Asturias, Cantabria and I would also recommend the the Basque country. Green all-yearcoast. You can go to a hotel or long, the beaches here are spectacular and the rent a cottage. food is unmatched. I encourage visitors to engage in Unfortunately, travelling from Spain cultural tourism and visit our museums, cathedrals has two main challenges. Kenya is an expensive travand historical cities. Spain is one of the countries with el destination and we lack direct flights from Spain. one of the largest World Heritage cities and sites The 12-hour flight, equivalent to traveling to South declared by Unesco. One of the special places I defiAmerica or even China, can be discouraging. Once nitely desire to visit is my island, Minorca, in the international borders reopen, a direct flight from Balearic Islands, where I was born. Spain to Kenya that would ease this journey by at least five hours is my priority. Difference and similarities between Spain and Kenya Toughest or easiest bit about being an ambassador Both countries have breathtaking beaches but Once you have the vocation for it then you will while the Kenyan coastline is long, the Spanish adapt easily. Not everyone can live far from family, coast is broader. For a start, both countries are country or beloved people. I can only see them once nearly the same size, which is half a million square or twice a year and the distance and expense involved kilometers, and host nearly the same population. does not make it any easier. Also, it’s hard to say goodSpain is also as diverse as Kenya having been invaded bye when you’ve already adapted to the mission counby the Romans, Germans, Arabs, and Muslims in the try. You live like several lives as an ambassador past. because once you leave a country, you know it comSpain is deeply rooted in the European pletely and have a different set of friends and lives and tradition and has shaped the world you have to repeat this in another country once your in many ways. We were the first mission is done. It opens your mind to understand country, for instance, to circumhumans more and to be tolerant. navigate the globe. Globalisation began with the Spaniards and What is my legacy? the Portuguese over 500 years Kenya is not well-known in Spain with some people ago and it is our sailors who, in Europe erroneously assuming Africa is one country. from their travels, proved If I could help the Spanish people to learn a bit more that earth is round. Spanish about Kenya and what makes it different from other is also the second most spoAfrican countries, I will be happy. ken language in the world. I would like to be remembered as someone who My favourite Kenyan increased and bettered the relations between the two destination countries. Apart from that, I would like to be rememI always advise Spanbered as someone who assisted other people, espeiards coming for confercially the Spaniards who live here in Kenya. I don’t ences to try to extend their want to forget that I am a public servant and that am visit, and for at least one here to serve people. It’s one of the noble things that more day, just go on a game you can do. drive at the Nairobi National

is a dynamic nation with abundant nature. Even though Nairobi is a city, I was impressed by the green spaces it has.

The Standard

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Paradise or hell? A few safe reasons why you should give Garissa a break Thorn Mulli travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

am sprawled on a four-poster bed relishing the most alluring gold sunlight flooding the room. I cannot get over how roomy this chamber is. In my thoughts, as I fixate on the high roof, a plausible reason forms. This being a warm destination, the ensuing balminess would unbearable if the walls were closed in. So warm is the weather here that duvets would be as impractical as trying to draw soup from stone. Bedsheets suffice. For one with trouble sleeping with the air conditioner on, the roominess ensures a comfortable night. As I admire the space peppered with Arabian influence, my mind wanders to how reputations can be deceiving. I reminisce on the first time I met a celebrity whom everyone had painted as snotty only to find her modest to a fault. Turns out, she had been speciously j u d g e d

based on one out-of-context incident. Some destinations have the unfortunate task of disrobing a tainted reputation. This feeling was buttressed by this destination that was not living up to its bad name. A majority of the world consider it the belly of hell yet barely 15 years ago, it was ranked as one of Kenya’s safest districts. Well, that was until, in one fell swoop, a horrifying incident earned it a grimy reputation. Now, the most popular question on most lips, including internet streets, is how safe the town is. Why it does not deserve its bad name Yet here I was, in what can easily be a five star hotel paying Sh4, 500 on halfboard, in a destination that if well harnessed would give traditional holiday destinations a run for their money. 16 hours earlier, I had arrived in Garissa through Mwingi and Thika from Nairobi. In all honesty, my expectations had been very low. I expected a glorified hamlet overrun by radical elements. I have never been more wrong in my assessment. As it turned out, Garissa is a busy metropolis that has welcomed people from different extractions warmly. Here the phrase ‘people fear what they don’t understand and hate what they can’t conquer’ finds meaning. I dare say that we have branded this town erroneously. While Cushites, who many wrongly profile as terrorists, make the bulk of the population, a sizeable Bantu and Nilotic population call this place home too. To these groupings, Garissa is the land of peace and opportunity. Unexpected agricultural success After breaking fast, I sought to sightsee. At the main stop area, foodstuff was being offloaded from

trucks. Garissa, having semi-arid climate, depends on perishable nourishment from other counties, notably Kiambu. Let that not fool you on the state of its food security. Garissa cattle producers have a significant impact on the world beef trade. While that was not news, that Garissa is an agro-tourism stop triggered interest. The most obvious feature as you get into the county headquarters is Tana River, Kenya’s longest river and the lifeline of this territory. On this morning, we spotted bare-chested anglers whom my guide intimated to be members of smallest tribes in Kenya, the Malakote who speak Kiwilwana. Barely numbering 20,000, the Malakote are an agricultural people living along the river. Their livelihood is fishing and beekeeping. Our journey’s end was Maendeleo Farm located on the western side, barely two kilometres from the CBD. Part of the Galbet Scheme, this farm started in 1983 is a living example demonstrating the potential the 894,000 hectares of arable land Garissa boasts of. The farm’s manager Michael Ogolla, a crop production specialist whose experience goes back to colonial days, was gracious enough to give us a tour. Trained in Embu, Bwana Ogolla was first posted to Sololo, Marsabit in the then North Eastern province in 1973 before settling in Garissa. Initially bent on animal husbandry, Maendeleo Farm is currently concentrating on citrus, papaws, kales, tomatoes, sweet and watermelon cultivation. Their champion produce, however, is mangoes. Relying on canal irrigation, Maendeleo Farm produces 12

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Top: Maendeleo Farm Manager, Michael Ogolla Middle: Head Chef Mukesh Singh Below: A Somali wedding in progress [MarkDenver Karubiu]

Main: 64-room Lantern Resort. The swimming pool addition offers an oasis in the scorching north Inset: A Garissa resident milks a camel Below: Reticulated giraffe browse and seek refuge from the midday sun at The Bour-Algi Giraffe Sanctuary, a community-based conservation and natural resource management initiative located 5km south of Garissa town. [MarkDenver Karubiu]

varieties of mangoes including Ngowe, Dodo and Boribo while exotic varieties are Apples, Kent, Tommy Atkins, Van Dyke, Haden and Kenstone. Battling heat that makes the fruit abort, disease and pests, the farm manages a heist of at least 120 tonnes every season. This is in the backdrop of an invasive Prosopis juliflora (Mathenge Tree) plant that has narrowed the Tana River as well as insistent siltation that prevents proper flow causes flooding. I will not even delve into opening of dams’ floodgates upstream that causes perennial flooding. “If only the water could be diverted to neighbouring arid regions with arable soils,” Ogolla says. Despite the stacked odds, the rich soils of this eco-friendly farm help meet the stringent European market conditions where most of the fruit is sent to. Mangoes have two harvest seasons in a year and picking is done using hooks and nets with the expert pickers taking care not to bruise the green gold. When lower prices draw the intermediaries to other mango-growing regions, the remaining harvest undergoes value addition; the mangoes are dried and ground into powder or processed into mango chips.

Cultural entanglement After the detailed farm tour, I was itching for a cultural entanglement but first up was a culinary journey and I was treated to a true taste of the Horn of Africa. There is a big chance that you have tried Somali cuisine given the mushrooming of Somali restaurants in Nairobi. As is with most cultural experi-

ences, however, an authentic immersion slaps different. I am still fantasising about the finger-licking nyirinyiri (lean camel meat preserved in oil) and arosto (fried goat) paired with eggless pancake bread that I enjoyed. Moreover, as you might know, the Somali like to test diners with their meal portions and it is remarkable how trim most Somalis remain with that diet. All this, of course, is washed downed with king-sized cam-

el milk milkshake. Speaking of camels, my hosts who run the 64-room Lantern Resort set up an unforgettable visit to a camel market as well as one to a Somali manyatta. On this day, I downed a few unpasteurised mouthfuls of this low cholesterol liquid whose medicinal qualities, including reducing autism in children, are extolled. I had been warned that there was a chance of gut flushing, but it seems all the mercury we are fed in the city made me immune. I regret not making time to see the ‘world’s most endangered antelope’, the hirola. This medium-sized antelope is under siege. Kenya Wildlife Service reported that its population has declined from roughly 16, 000 in the 1970s to an estimated 400 or 500 today. Thankfully, with souls like Dr Abdullahi Hussein Ali, who founded the Hirola Conservation Programme, the war to prevent the species from becoming extinct might be won. In place of the hirola, I opted for what would be a goose chase of the equally elusive white giraffes of Garissa. One of my team members must have forgotten their morning prayers because the gods of the north did not bequeath my wish. I was, nonetheless, content with seeing reticulated giraffe that the community takes good care of. On the way to the community conservancy, a rare Black Bellied Bustard and a Lesser Kudu ghosted by. Gate-crashing a wedding As the sun fell, we joined a pulsating game of football in one of the three arena soccer pitches. Football is the number one sport here and with the main stadium ‘eaten’ up by floods and Mathenge Tree, the indoor pitches are big deal. Just as I was catching my breath, my guide asked if I was up for a Somali wedding experience. An overwhelming yes saw us crash the hooting convoy through ‘bulas’ for that is what residential areas in Garissa are called. Traditional Somali weddings have various ceremonies with the two main parts being nikah, the ceremony, and aroos, the party afterward. We were on course for the latter celebration before a flat tire cut our trip short. Heavy hearts received relief at a camel milk duka. As fate would have it, this was not the only wedding ceremony I would crash. Before departure the next morning, I joined a party at my hotel where the men from the two families and their friends partook a traditional meal of rice and meat after a formal, albeit brief, Islamic wedding. Like all great trips, mine was not without incident. While returning from the manyatta, the underlying security reality was slapped back after an encounter with the disciplined forces at Monika Barracks. Turns out that our choice of vehicle is liked by our grenade-strapping friends further north. Two vices I did not expect on this enlightening visit was the insistent litter and a vibrant red light district.

The Standard

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Mwisho wa reli train leaves the station

By James Wanzala travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

t exactly 2.30pm on a sunny Friday afternoon, a fivecoach train chugs out Thika station towards Nanyuki, the heart of Laikipia County. Aboard it are elated passengers among them Laikipia County’s First Lady Mariah Mbeneka. This is no ordinary train ride. This is a charter service for the #TwendeNanyuki initiative driven by Travelog Magazine, Kenya Railway Corporation (KRC), Laikipia County and its hospitality providers. For the select few this was a once in a lifetime chance to sample a service that had remained dormant for several decades. Most Kenyans might not be unfamiliar with the origins of the Mwish wa Reli tag but the Nairobi – Nanyuki Branch line was once a pulsating service that connected Kenya’s industrial capital with Mt Kenya’s agricultural nucleus.

other commodities. From Nairobi Central Railway Station, the branch line traversed six counties namely; Nairobi, Kiambu, Murang’a, Kirinyaga, Nyeri and Laikipia Counties. Indeed, the line served its purpose albeit for a brief while. The service could not outrun the corruption and mismanagement curse most Kenyan public industries have suffered and was was relegated to oblivion in the 90’s. With the spirited revival of local industries, however, the rehabilitation and repair of the Nanyuki – Nairobi railway line has been implemented over six months. Tourists visiting the mountainside tourist magnet have had the option of either flying or driving. The introduction of the commuter service is meant to offer a more memorable travel experience at a competitive charge. It currently costs an average of Sh800 to Sh1, 000 to travel to the town by public transportation. Kenya Railways officials hint that the trip from Thika to Nanyuki will cost an average of Sh200 for economy class while passengers in the six spacious second-class compartments accommodating four passengers will part with slightly higher fares. While you will have to wait for this service a little longer, the Travelog team took one for all travel enthusiasts to paint a picture of what to expect. On the steering wheel was locomotive driver William Mwathi and his co-driver George Obwora, who promised an enjoyable ride and truly it was. While this writer has visited Nanyuki by road before, the experience in this metallic snake allowed more chances to ruminate on the scenic beauty of the route. We cut through pineapple, coffee and tea plantations; meandering and mountainous topography of Kiambu, Murang’a, Kirinyaga and Nyeri counties. To go with the country view was apt entertainment by

Of maiden train rides and lion tracking to the shadow of Mount Kenya

The genesis The 177.2km-long Meter Gauge Railway was an offshoot of the lunatic line (Kenya-Uganda line) constructed in 1896-1901. Other branches, whose purpose was to connect to economic zones included the VoiTaveta line completed in 1912 to serve the sisal plantations. The other was the Magadi line built in 1915, which provided a link to Lake Magadi’s soda ash deposits. Two years earlier, the construction of a line from Nairobi to Thika had begun. Constructed for 17 years in three phases namely; Nairobi to Thika, Thika to NaroMoru, completed in 1927; and Naromoru to Nanyuki, the service was intended to transport tea, coffee, wheat, and

1. Locomotive driver, William Mwathi 2. Sampling the regions’ produce 3. Country Music Band duo of Robert Jumba and Bobby McJones entertain passengers.

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Laikipia Governor Ndiritu Muriithi and his wife Mariah Mbeneka pet a rhino in Ol Pejeat Conservancy. [David Gichuru]

Nairobi-based Yodeling Brothers, a Country Music Band duo of Robert Jumba and Bobby McJones. Nothing evokes the memories of the old days better than country music renditions of hits like Coward of The County by Kenny Rodgers belted to the chime of a puffing train. The excitement was not confined to the belly of the train as crowds, of mostly traders, came out to witness the train at every stop. Suffice to say; by the time we arrived in Mwisho wa Reli, we were well nourished from the produce purchased from the swarming hawkers that proved hard to turn down. At exactly 7:30pm, we arrived at Nanyuki train station to a VIP welcome by Laikipia’s boss, Governor Ndiritu Muriithi. After a wholehearted welcome, guests dispersed to their choice accommodation while we carted to our base-The Stables of Ol Pejeta Conservancy. Futile lion tracking Still pumped from the previous day’s ride, we stirred at the break of dawn to hunt down the king of these wild parts. Of all the big five possible here, the cats tend to be the hardest to spot given the thick shrub on the expansive 90,000-acre range. To improve our chances of a sighting we employed the services of

a tracking guide, Patrick Muriithi, to help with the tracking. “Sightings are best in the morning from 6am to 8am because this is when the lions hunt if they were unsuccessful at night. The other ideal time is in the cool afternoons because the lions seek refuge from the midday sun in the shade around midday,” explains Muriithi. Nothing, however, is guaranteed in the wild wild north, as we would soon find out. Despite the conservancy hosting at least 75 lions, we were not lucky. Not even our secret weapon, a tracking devise handled by Muriithi, could pin the exact location of the signal from any of the sixcollared lions. After a few hours of trying, we called it a day but not before enjoying a healthy serving of Jackson’s hartebeests, giraffes, zebras, antelopes, zebras, among other game with relative ease. Party in the wild While rumours of a party in one of the roving nightclubs was a tempting prospect, we were 72 hours away from a presidential decree allowing gathering in bars. Seems the gods heard our thirsty dilemma and presented what millennials call ‘form’, as word seeped in that the Governor was throwing a socially distanced shindig at one of the camps in the conservancy. This fit in perfectly with our after-

noon itinerary, which was marked with the surefire visit to the chimpanzee sanctuary and Northern White Rhino boma. “It’s one of the experiences and activities we offer here in addition to lion tracking, game drives, horse racing, chimpanzee viewing, bush walk, bird watching, seeing Baraka, the completely blind black rhinowhich you can be more closer also and pet it,” explained Muriithi. According to Head of Conservation Samuel Mutisya, Ol Pejeta has reduced entry fees to the conservancy by half and scrapped some charges including the visit to Baraka’s enclosure and nature trails to the conservancy. The offer will end on December 15. “We have reduced our entry fees since March after Covid-19 pandemic was declared. Kenyan citizens can access the conservancy at Sh700 from Sh1, 400.e have also reduced our accommodation and conservation experiences by either 20 per cent or half and this applies to all guests. Our roads are well marked and in good condition so we allow self-dives,” Mutisya explained. Ol Pejeta is not the only one dishing offers to spur tourism; Sweetwaters Serena Camp where the cocktail event was being hosted also has enticing offers.

“We understand how Covid-19 pandemic has hit our clients pockets and we have reduced accommodation packages by 25 to 30 per cent on to allow them continue to come to enjoy our hospitality and activities,” said camp manager Felix Ogembo. Our stars semed to align with a happenstance bumping into the Governor Muriithi who was showing a few tourists around. The governor was fresh from a panel interview at Morani Restaurant, hosted by KTN News, that discussed the strategy the County is using to market Laikipia as tourism considering its strategic positioning as gateway to northern Kenya soon joined us The charismatic county boss, while welcoming us to the sundowner safari staple did not waste the chance to impress his tourism agenda further. “Through the Destination Laikipia initiative, we have a range of programmes, like Twende Nanyuki, that with the help of various platforms is geared towards marketing our County’s tourist destinations. We have also injected about Sh3 billion to support small businesses like eateries and bars to help put them in business after suffering the Covid-19 impact,” aid Governor Muriithi. He says they are optimistic as a county that the rail transport will improve the tourism potential of the county.

View of Mount Kenya [David Gichuru]

“With the help of partners like KRC, we will bring down the cost of transport to Laikipia. Apart from road and air options, we hope that the rail opt, when it will be officially launched will increase travel to the county because it’s affordable and convenient. We are in talks with KRC so that the train will be leaving Nairobi to Nanyuki every Friday and returning on Sunday,” said Muriithi. Over hors d’oeuvres and gin laced tonics, the Governor went on to explain that he is keen to sharpen county’s tourism offering by encouraging entrepreneurs to set up more dining and cultural experiences for guests,” said Governor Muriithi. I had tastiest beef earlier in the day and couldn’t help but ask the governor to recommend a few more ‘meating’ options. “Laikipia, FYI, is the source of best quality of beef in the country. My best places are Ol Pejeta’s Morani restaurant, Kungu Maitu in Nanyuki town, Hippo Point at Nyahururu and in R.Villa in Rumuruti,” he pointed out. Most Kenyans accept as true that Laikipia tourism is packages for foreigners only something that the county head disputed pointing out that they have different alternatives for different folk suiting different budgets. “You, for instance, can secure full-board accommodation, sample night life, game drives and enjoy other activities with a budget of Sh10, 000. I encourage Kenyans to research on the destination and they will be amazed at how accommodating we are,” concluded Governor Muriithi. With buzzing heads we slunk back to our base for a night that marked by crackling banters and bonfire trying to wish our return to the capital away.

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It’s a grave matter

It is in the roots, not the branches, that a tree’s greatest strength lies

Harriet Akinyi travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

ll over the world, mausoleums are significant tourist, historical as well as cultural resources for a country. By definition, a mausoleum is an above ground freestanding structure that has burial compartments or even crypts to hold an individual’s remains. For years, mausoleums have been employed to honour or commemorate the life of a dead person. In India, for instance, the Taj Mahal is a mausoleum that was commissioned in 1632 by the Mughal emperor Shah Jahan to house the tomb of his favourite wife, Mumtaz Mahal. This representation of adoration, in addition, houses the tomb of Shah Jahan himself and was listed as a UNESCO world heritage site in the year 1983. In some places, mausoleums awaken patriot-

Taj Mahal Mausoleum

ism or an interest in a genealogy especially if it’s a historic figure or a celebrity. Take Lenin’s Mausoleum in Russia, which is also referred to as Lenin’s Tomb, located in Red Square in the center of Moscow. Here, the preserved body of Soviet leader Vladimir Lenin has been on public display since his death in 1924. Historically, mausoleums are ancient burial methods that date back to 350 BC. The term is derived from King Mausolos whom history indicates was buried by his wife in a temple-like building which was surrounded by columns and his remains rested on a stone platform-the earliest one to ever be recorded. It was even deemed as one of the Seven Wonders of the World. Since then, communities, families and world leaders have turned to mausoleums to

lay their loved ones to rest. Sometimes world leaders and emperors would build such to showcase their wealth and power. In Africa, mausoleums have mainly been erected to preserve the memory of the post-colonial continent’s founding fathers. Kwame Nkrumah Mausoleum and Memorial Park in downtown Accra, Ghana celebrates president Kwame Nkrumah. In Egypt, a mausoleum was built in capital Cairo, in honour of former president Gamal Abdel-Nasser. In Malawi, a mausoleum was built for the country’s first president Kamuzu Banda a decade after his death. Our very own founding fathers Jomo Kenyatta and Jaramogi Oginga Odinga are honoured with the Jaramogi Oginga Odinga Mausoleum at Kang’o KaJaramogi in Bondo, Siaya County and Mzee Jomo Kenyatta’s Mausoleum next to parliament buildings respectively. Tom Mboya mausoleum Situated at Lwanda Kamsengre village on Rusinga Island is the third-most famous mausoleum in Kenya. The Tom Mboya Mausoleum built in honour of Kenya’s first Economic Planning minister, Thomas Joseph Odhiambo Mboya, was constructed two years after his assassination in the year 1969 and was gazetted as a national monument in 2001 in honour of his contribution towards independence and Kenya’s politics. In addition to white sandy beaches and unique Suba culture, the mausoleum is a big draw for who visit to learn about the life of this venerated man. While the mausoleum is currently under renovations, one can still get to learn more about Tom Mboya in the museum housed in a striking building designed in the form of a bullet like the one that ended the icon’s life. To guide you through this journey is Nick Odhiambo, the late Mboya’s stepbrother. According to Guide Odhiambo, Tom Mboya, was buried in his father’s, Leonard Ndiege, homestead, and not at Lambwe Valley where

The Standard Jaramogi Museum located at Kang’o ka Jaramogi in Bondo

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Tom Mboya’s simba that has been converted into a rest room for guests

Tom Mboya Mausoleum located in Lwanda Kamsengre village on Rusinga Island

Jaramogi’s resting place

Luo traditional fishing tools

he owned land and planned to relocate. His wife Pamela Mboya (a daughter of the politician Walter Odede) whom he married in 1962 is buried there. At the entrance is a gallery that contains artefacts that belonged to Tom Mboya. There are hats suited for every occasion and since Tom Mboya valued traditional Luo music, there is a nyatiti, orutu and a drum strung from the skin of a monitor lizard. There are also artefacts important in the Luo culture including kitchen items, a walking stick, akala shoes, and a stool. They also have a farm where there are plans to start planting indigenous vegetables for people to learn about them. Next, we are welcomed to Mr Ndiege’s last wife’s home before proceeding to the museum. Tom Mboya’s father had five wives and while the other four remain and continue narrating the legacy of their stepson, Mboya’s mother, Marcella Wosuba, passed away in 1987. Mr Ndiege demise followed a short two months later. The museum’s gate donated by Joshua Kereda’s, whose father was a beneficiary of the

A gift for mboya from the Kennedys

education airlift program to the United States initiated by Tom Mboya, is painted Kenya’s flag colours. A replica of the mud hut where Tom Mboya was born in Kilimambogo in 1930 greets you as do two flower cans painted trade union and airlifts respectively, which that mark two of Tom Mboya’s passionate achievements. Sisal grows around the hut mimicking the sisal plantation he was born and where he began his trade union movement. Mboya in Kamba means prayer and since he was born in Kilimambogo area, both the Kamba and the Luo claim his birth. Inside the hut are some of his clothes like his tuxedos and jackets. Though not in their original state, due to time and dust, you still have a feel of Mboya’s presence especially when the guide links them to the photos as he narrates the story of this legend. Besides the attire in the hut is an old spring chair that belonged to Tom Mboya and a sling that belonged to his father. In effort to relay as much right information on the life Tom Mboya, the museum provides newspaper cuttings. From the cuttings, for instance, we learn of Tom Mboya’s first marriage that resulted in two children. Little is known about the family who drifted from the public eye after the divorce. Apart from a replica of the house he was raised in is a replica simba (traditional bachelor pad). The house has a resting place, a TV and Wi-Fi for those who desire to spend time and learn more about the man. It also boasts the original wedding gift-a cooker-from the John F. Kennedy. In the evenings, visitors four step wives gather tourists around a fire and they recollect memories of their most son yet. Jaramogi Mausoleum and Museum On the other side of town is another mausoleum built for another icon. Located in Bondo Siaya, the mausoleum is a gazetted heritage site commemorating Kenya’s first vice president and opposition doyen, Jaramogi Odinga who died in the year 1994. The Mausoleum is great place to visit for history enthusiasts who would like better understand who this great man, who helped in shaping Kenya’s political history. At the entrance are sculptured lions which are a symbol of Jaramogi’s relentless spirit which he held during his days in the opposition. There is also a chamber with photos of some of the historic moments in the life of Jaramogi like when he was appointed as a vice president and in 1964 when he was sworn as the MP of Bondo. Jaramogi had five wives, and the first, who was Former Prime Minister Raila’s mother, passed on in the year 1984. There is also another chamber, where his late first wife lived which has been converted into a museum. In there is a rich collection of Jaramogi’s regalia like his shoes, clothes, different ceremonial hats too. It also has his bathroom, his favourite wine and his drugs, since he was diabetic. In addition, it comprises of traditional symbols of power like bows, arrows, spears as well as shields that belonged to the Luo community leader. The different walking sticks also represent his different stages in political career like when he was in KPU, KANU as well as FORD. An ajua, which he played during his leisure time is also preserved.

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It’s a bird bird world

CONSERVATION WATCH Follow us on Instagram: @TravelogKe Twitter: @TravelogMag Facebook: Travelog Ke Website: travelog.ke

Forget the phenomenal wildebeest migration in Masai Mara, humpback whale migration in Kenya’s coast for a moment, October ushers in one of nature marvels with grand entry of migratory birds on a perilous journey across continents. Caroline Chebet travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

wice a year-in M a y and October, the world witness extra-ordinary genius and fortitude as millions of birds embark on journeys across the globe following traditional pathways known as flyways. These flyways, akin to super-highways, have been used by generations. Unexplained phenomenon Ever spotted flying birds in a straight line, chain or V-formation? Those are the some of the larger migratory birds moving between their nesting

Kenya is a preffered wintering grond for birds escaping the cold and food scarcity of winter [Courtesy]

grounds to feeding grounds during specific periods. In the complex migratory journeys, the sun and earth’s magnetic fields guide the birds as they negotiate numerous mountain, deserts and oceans. Other migratory birds fly thousands of kilometres at night using the stars for their navigation. These epic species can tell whether they are flying towards the poles or the equator. Celebrated conservationist and bird expert Fleur Ng’weno explained to Travelog that what makes these migrations spectacular is that they are the longest migrations on Earth. “The Arctic Tern, for example, nests in and near the Arctic, but flies across the Earth to the Antarctic in the non-breeding season. Last year, a Common Cuckoo born in Mongolia in Eastern Asia was tracked as it

flew to Kenya and then Zambia – and back to Mongolia this year. Just imagine, a tiny bird like a Willow Warbler – weighing just a few grams – travelling thousands of kilometers from its nesting grounds in Siberia to South Africa!” she says. Scientists, according to Fleur, are still learning about the complex migratory routes that birds follow. Migratory birds take advantage of the winds and tend to duck obstacles like oceans, deserts or high mountains. Kenya’s position in the migrations In Kenya, there are migratory routes along the Coast, along the eastern lowlands, down the Rift Valley, and along Lake Victoria. According to William Kimosop, North Rift Tourism director, major flyways enter Kenya’s rift through Turkana. One of the major flyway, he says, enters Kenya from Turkana through to Kerio Valley and exits at Tugumoi ridge. Others start in Turkana-TurkwellOrtum-Weiwei and exit over Segor and Charangani Hills. Another starts off from Turkana-Malaso-Olaronyiro-Bogoria-Nakuru and Elementaita.

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Rift Valley is part of the Afro-Eurasian flyway used by migrating birds in their magical spectacles. The flyway is considered the second-most important flyway in the world supporting up to 1.5 million migratory birds between their breeding grounds in Europe, Asia and Africa. Interestingly, a migratory bird can spend over a quarter of the year on migration. In their journeys, migratory birds play a role connecting people, ecosystems and nations. Onset of migration in birds mark changes in seasons while inspiring children songs and tales. The birds, in tales, are praised as messengers soaring across continents to convey messages. The genius in crown control While some migratory birds like starlings and swallows prefer sticking together in large flocks, others like pelicans, geese and stocks make exceptional patterns in the sky as the fly, these shapes are a tactic to make sure that everyone stays together and none is lost or left behind. To make sure all are on board, these birds including cranes and geese make constant chattering to coordinate the flock. The birds also fly in formations because they want to save energy. In most cases, the leading bird does the most strenuous job taking the lead with the rest of the group benefitting from the slipstream of their leader. Leaders often tactically change the positions at the top to keep the flock on the move. However, not all migratory birds fly in patterns, the cuckoo, for example, flies alone. By October, according to Nature Kenya, a partner of Birldlife International in Kenya and a conservation organisation, several migratory bird species including White Storks, Ospreys, Eurasian Bee-eaters and Barn Swallows might be spotted in Kenya after making their long journeys. Migratory birds utilise columns of rising air known as thermals, to travel greater distances to save on energy. Reliance on ther-

tropics to their northern breeding grounds. The northward journey through eastern Africa brings on board large migrants with many spotted along coastlines of Kenya and Tanzania. During the migration period, several awareness and ringing campaigns are initiated by conservation agencies and organisations chiefly Nature Kenya, National Museums of Kenya and Kenya Wildlife Service. Ringing of the birds documents their travel history are also undertaken by Nature Kenya and National Museums. Water bird counts are also conducted during the period to keep records of migrant birds and to monitor their stopovers.

mals dictates that birds avoid large water bodies; reason migratory birds prefer shorter routes that cuts across water bodies. The journeys, bird experts say, sometimes often push them to the limits. Even in these tactical journeys, few of the birds get lost In the same manner mammals migrate in search of food and pasture, migrating birds voyage to warmer regions during specific periods According to Paul Gacheru, a bird expert at Nature Kenya. This is because warmer areas favour thriving insect populations that the birds feed on. “In their migration, birds often prefer shorter flight routes especially when passing overs seas. In their complex journeys, they navigate shorter routes where they can have stopovers for rest before taking off again to their destinations. While crossing over lakes, they prefer routes with islands for breaks,” Mr Gacheru said. Preferred wintering grounds Mountains around the Aberdare Ranges, Mt Kenya and Taita hills are also some of their stopover havens for the birds as they fly down to South Africa before following same routes back north. The Kenya Lakes System

consisting of lakes Elementaita, Nakuru and Bogoria provide a vital wintering ground for over 100 species of migratory birds. The lakes are also home to a number of threatened and endangered species, supporting 75 per cent of the global population of the lesser flamingo while supporting one of the major breeding colonies of the great white pelican. As a result, birding in the North Rift has risen to become a major tourist attraction during the migration season with one of the observatories haven marked. The Tugumoi Ridge Migratory Flyway plays a role of raising awareness on the importance of conserving migratory routes as well as serving a base for tourists interested in birding. Species such as the Barn Swallow, Willow Warbler and Red-backed Shrike Lanius collusion have been documented to use the route through Uganda and the Lake Victoria basin on their grand entry in to East Africa. Others such as the Marsh Warbler, Thrush Nightingale and Basra Reedwarbler pass further to the east through the Kenyan highlands. The return journey up north is relatively swift with many birds making their journey back from the southern

Flirting with danger Just like any other migration, challenges abound. Game bird hunters in Mediterranean countries shoot down many migratory birds for fun or food. This tradition has resulted in the decline of migratory birds over the years. While birds also depend on landmarks for their navigation in their journeys, some of these iconic landmarks and stopovers are under pressure. Developments like power pylons are also coming up fast along their flyways sometimes electrocuting the birds and often causing them to collide fatally. In Europe and Africa, many migrants have undergone severe declines over the past few decades. According to Birdlife International 20 species that migrate along the East Asia/East Africa Flyway are now regarded as globally threatened, including the Northern Bald Ibis Geronticus eremita, Sociable Lapwing Vanellus gregarius, Spotted Groundthrush Zoothera guttata and Basra Reed-warbler. It is estimated that 40 per cent of species of migratory birds are declining, a reason why Migratory Bird Day is celebrated twice a year. This day (In 2020, WMBD will be held on 9 May 9 and October 10) celebrates this natural wonder and raises awareness on our responsibility to care for birds and the lands they fly over during their incredible journeys. Besides local events, birders can also join the global community in to mark migration on globalbirding.org where participants are invited to go birding at their favourite locations in their own country.

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Bet you did not know about me

WILDLIFE ENCOUNTERS Follow us on Instagram: @TravelogKe Twitter: @TravelogMag Facebook: Travelog Ke Website: travelog.ke

By Gardy Chacha travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

Our existence is dependent on biodiversity and ecosystem balance but something about our behaviour suggests majority barely care. Knowledge is the first step.

VULTURES There are six recorded species of vultures in Kenya. These nature’s garbage disposers that feed on carcasses of animals are resistant to many diseases - and don’t contract or spread diseases like tuberculosis, anthrax, rabies or brucellosis. By consuming carcasses of animal that were sick, vultures reduce chances of such zoonotic illnesses. “They therefore play a critical role in maintaining healthy ecosystems,” says Kahindi Lekalhaile, the chief operations director at Africa Network for Animal Welfare (ANAW). Unfortunately, the bearded vulture that was common in Hells Gate National Park is now extinct. “Upon their extinction we quickly took note that many carcasses in Masai Mara weren’t disappearing, potentially endangering other carnivores and scavengers,” he says. At least three vulture species – white-backed, whiteheaded, and hooded vultures are under the Multi-Species Action Plan to Conserve African-Eurasian Vultures (MsAP). Vultures have reduced in number mainly from poisoning.

GREVY’S ZEBRA DUGONG The dugong is a marine mammal whose blubbery mouth resembles that of the hippopotamus. Dugongs typically take the shape of a whale and have been nicknamed mermaids. They are sometimes referred to as sea cow as they mainly feed on sea grass. Known as nguva (in Swahili) the dugong features in many legends of coastal communities. In 1967, the dugong’s population along the Kenyan coast was placed at about 500. According to Kenya Wildlife Service, aerial surveys conducted between 1973 and 1996 show a sharp decline in their population. In 1994, their population in Lamu was ten while two years later, that number had dropped to six. Globally, a decline of up to 20 per cent has been recorded and there is a risk that they could be extinct unless immediate conservation measures are put in place.

AFRICAN VIOLET BLUE The African violet blue, scientifically known as Saintpaulia teitensis, is a unique flora only found in Kenya’s Taita Hills. It features thick, leathery dark green leaves with red undersides, and bears four to eight bluish flowers. Forest fragments – specifically Mbololo Forest – on the Taita Hills hold the only known wild populations of this plant. Owing to its rarity, the plant is threatened by habitat loss from encroachment by cultivation and extractive utilisation of the forest resources as well as quarrying activities.

Kenya holds the Great Grevy’s Rally annually. Though called ‘rally’, the event is meant to conduct census for the Grevy’s zebra population in Kenya. According to Dan Rubenstein, professor of ecology and evolutionary biology, the census is of great importance to conservationists who want to keep tabs with and monitor the species. Perhaps, you are wondering, what is the Grevy’s zebra and how is it different from the common zebra? The Grevy’s zebra, says Prof Rubenstein, has thin and elegant stripes. “Unlike the plain zebra, the Grevy’s zebra’s stripes do not touch at the belly. The animal has an allwhite belly,” he says. G r e v y ’s zebras are also bigger and have round ears compared to plain zebras. Kenya is home to over 90 per cent of the world’s remaining Grevy’s zebra. The rest are in southern Ethiopia. It is estimated we had as many as 15,000 individuals in the 1970s. “Their numbers plummeted to just about 1,500 by 2000s – mostly due to poaching for their elegant skin,” Prof Rubenstein says. There is hope, though, for the Grevy’s zebra; due to conservation efforts, its

population has steadily grown, rising to about 2,350 in 2016 then to 2,812 in 2018. RED STINKWOOD The botanical name of the red stinkwood tree is Prunus Africana. Locally, it is called Mutimailu (Kamba), Muiri (Kikuyu), Arareut (Kipsigis) and Kiburabura (Swahili) to sample a few local communities. Red stinkwood is a medicinal tree whose bark has traditionally been used among Kenyan communities to treat illnesses of the prostate. Notably, Jonathan Leakey, was the only person licensed in Kenya by KWS’s CITES office to export the red stinkwood bark in the early 1990s. As at 2004, the World Agroforestry Centre (ICRAF) estimated that a kilogramme of prunus powder sold for Sh1.2 million. Because of its medicinal value, the tree became a target for profit-focused middlemen who pushed the species into extinction. Leakey’s permit was later cancelled by then Environment Minister Newton Kulundu (between 2003 and 2007). Prunus Africana, which is on the endangered species list, is endemic to the highlands of Cameroon, DRC, Equatorial Guinea, Kenya, Tanzania and Uganda. PANGOLIN The pangolin is a unique mammal covered in overlapping scales that is the perfect body armour. Due to its scaly appearance, people often confuse it for a reptile. Its scales, accounting for about 20 per cent of its weight, are made of keratin. Pangolins have pointed heads with no external ears and they also don’t have teeth. They grind food using their muscled stomach. They mostly eat termites and ants, trapping them by inserting a long sticky tongue (some as long as the entire length of its body) into crevices with the insects. In the wild, the pangolin reacts against natural predators by coiling itself i n to a cyclical shape and emits a pungent smell from glands in its body – much like a skunk. According to Philip Muruthi, the African Wildlife Foundation Vice President, the pangolin is currently the most trafficked animal in the world. “It is hunted mostly for its meat and scales. The scales are believed to bear supernatural and healing properties – albeit wrongfully – in some Asian communities”, Muruthi says.

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By Richard Kitheka travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

enya’s Diani beach has been recognised several times by The World Travel Awards as Africa’s Best Beach Destination. These awards, described as “the Oscars of the travel industry” carry with them economic glory for holiday inns, hotels and resorts. The awards promise tides of happy tourists to enjoy, flash and snap away on the promise of crisp white beaches while enjoying hotel servings and associated activities on the beaches, in the sea and inland thanks to the living coral. The ocean being generous hosts the world’s richest landlord, the coral reef. Squeezed up above plenty of other sea bottom features, reefs are the tropical forests of the underworld. Worldwide, they occupy about 300, 000sqkm. This housing of underwater seaweed forests, spiky sea urchins, soaking sponges, luminous magical sea stars, countless worms, startling fish, electric rays, edible lobster, shrimp, octopus and all sorts of amazing snails is a mysterious seven star condominium. Elite, little known, hardworking creatures of rarified beauty are the source of livelihoods for millions along the world’s warm east side shores. Weare killing our coral As time swishes by, however, there is a real danger that these coral’s resplendent magical colour codes and lifeforms that delight everyone may be breathing in pain. Here is why, explains Noel Kanaiza, a marine biologist who has practised in Dubai for the last three years: “Oceans are corroding faster and faster under the yoke of marine life extinction revved up by acidification which kills baby abalone, crabs, deforms squid and weakens brittle star fish.” Noel’s last posting at Pets Plus And Underwater Environments LLC Dubai involved both marine and freshwater aquatic livestock which included different kinds of fish, shrimps, corals, crabs, sponges, sea ferns, cultured refugium phytoplankton and freshwater plants.

She maintains that the effects of human interference and climate change combined with high carbon dioxide levels, over-fishing functional fish that hold the coral together make it difficult for coral to flourish. Reefs she says face collapse having rotten or endured desecration from overfishing, unfavourable thermal levels, acidification or action of nature itself. When exposed to prolonged high temperature spurts of above 30 degrees Celsius, corals do not re-acquire their zooxanthellae. As a result, corals simply starve, die and become overgrown with more competitive and opportunistic algae. Right now, it’s becoming clear that with four million Kenyans using disposable masks daily and with majority of these ending up in our water ecosystems due to lack of adequate incineration facilities for proper disposal at county level, Kenya’s coasts stand exposed

Masks threat to divers’ dream Marine biologist, Noel Kanaizaion.

Scientists fear that coral reefs already endangered by climate change are now exposed to surgical masks, latex gloves and other marine debris.

to more pollution. Masks are made of polypropylene, a type of plastic, meaning they are not going to break down quickly. “We are protecting ourselves but what about the environment?” poses Noel Kanaiza. Startlingly, more enemies of the corals exist. Many point fingers at sand dredgers but it is the oblivious action of holidaymakers and divers who play too close to the reef that is gradually killing it. Add to this the sellers of colourful living coral plucked off the sea, all the deforestation and intense cultivation upstream that’s producing effluent into local rivers and ultimately into the sea. “Oblivious holidaymakers corrode coral reefs,” says marine scientist David Obura and team in their Status of Coral Reefs in East Africa report. Yet conversations on coral reefs have been largely muted in East Africa and no hotel can claim to have ticked all the boxes that will secure the ancient mystical relationship between the coastal economies and the dark depths of the oceans that have bred our coastal communities and even birthed a language (Swahili). To their credit, a few beach resorts along the south Coast, however, have taken baby steps to stem the decline of reefs and the reef’s tenants such as pancake turtles (Malacochersus tornieri) and rare fish found off our coastlines. Some hotels have their own eco-friendly teams that help scuba divers enjoy dives without harming the reef. The role of eduction By bending our ears to the exciting action points on coral protection in Marine Protected Areas of Kenya such as Watamu, Kisite Mpunguti, Diani and Mombasa’s Mama Ngina Waterfront Park, we are primed towards protection of our corals by encouraging responsible tourism- a plus for the tourism ministry. The coral reef ecology researched so extensively by Timothy R McClanahan, Nyawira Muthiga and others is poorly covered or activated by among others. The dull rendition stops at descriptions and unexciting black and white diagrams. Coral reef studies at secondary school level are encrypted for a dull read to an already internetwired, high school youth who would rather look for the information when they need it than sit exams differentiating barrier reefs, atolls and fringing reefs. Most of the students bump into coastal features later in life and fail to recognise or appreciate them! Other tactics to improve coral protection would include ending overcrowding at our beaches, mostly public beaches. It would also mean, taking responsible rides in glassbottomed boats and numbing the urge to carry away live marine features such as starfish off their habitat. Some counties have recognised the problem and are putting efforts to distribute Yellow Garbage bags for masks and other surgical PPEs, to reduce chances of such masks harming the marine ecosystem. The message being sent is that Covid-19’s tentacles are harming our marine ecosystem. The writer is a Public Relations practitioner and former Head of Geography Departmen at Strathmore School, Nairobi.

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CULINARY ESCAPE Follow us on Instagram: @TravelogKe Twitter: @TravelogMag Facebook: Travelog Ke Website: travelog.ke

Our writers share their favourite restaurants and what makes these spaces stand-out Travelog team travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

Breakfast wave by Ivy Waridi am a recent convert of breakfast date after reading somewhere that one should not witness the end of the world without enjoying a good breakfast. I tried it one Saturday morning, tagging my best friend, and now swear by it. Honey & Dough describe themselves as a modern gourmet café experience located at One Africa Place in Westlands. A reservation is strongly recommended. We had the classic English breakfast and the chicken wrap with a side of potatoes. The former comprised of eggs cooked to your preference, crispy bacon, baked beans, sausages and roasted cherry tomatoes and brown toast. The wrap was simple and that’s a good thing. I got a taste of every ingredient. I had the fresh pineapple and mint juice which I liked. When I go out to eat, I like to get the most out of my meal, and Honey and Dough satiated my pallet. The waitress was attentive without being overbearing. My meal was exactly what I had expected it to be; the

portions matched the flavours and pricing. If you love taking pictures, the ambience is perfect. They have a detailed menu on their website making it easier for you to pick your meal beforehand. A taste of Lamu by Daniel Wesangula Is there anything that can beat the feeling of the ocean breeze against your face on a hot day on a tropical Island? Yes, there is. A meal at Sea Souk Restaurant on Lamu’s Shela Island can do the trick. Samaki wa kupaka, viazi rojo, wali wa nazi and a tall glass of ice-cold ukwaju juice have no comparison. These, coupled with the accompanying aroma of the hot food and a nearly undetectable waft of lime with endless views of boats bobbing up and down the jetty could easily be the true definition of Swahili magic. The tastes. The presentation. The hospitality. A bite into well-marinated tuna will open up your taste buds to an entire new universe. The coconut rice will make you discover that you have been cooking rice wrong all along. The fried potatoes will make you believe you are eating something you’ve never had before. The juice will hit all the right spots, even those you never knew existed. Their seafood pizza and perfectly balanced samosas will take you on a culinary cruise. There’s no place you’d rather be. And there’s no meal you’d rather have. A jumbo gin sundowner by Wairimu Nyingi Not all gins are created equal, just as not all Big Five animals are created equal. It is a no brainer, really. Simba may be the king of the jungle but he has nothing on elephants led by a matriarch giving credence to the phrase ‘girls run the world’. They have thick skin (take that sticks and stones); they’re constantly eating (bye bye Keto, hello body positivity);

Tried and tasted

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CHEF OF THE MONTH Follow us on Instagram: @TravelogKe Twitter: @TravelogMag Facebook: Travelog Ke Website: travelog.ke and they never forget (I know what you did last summer). Samburu National Reserve is home to 66 families of elephants (Not all reserves are created equal). Smack in the middle (or not), sits Elephant Watch Camp, the ultimate eco-chic unrivalled wildlife experience overflowing with jumbos going about elephant business. Cue Elephant Gin - fitting, don’t you agree? Gin has taken the world by a tonic flavoured storm and no other white spirit has fueled Jumbo conservation in a mammoth way like Elephant Gin. Raw effect by Carole Kimutai It has been six months since I went out for dinner - thanks to the Coronavirus! In those six months, I have come to appreciate the opportunity to eat out. More specifically, I miss going out for sushi dates at my all-time favourite restaurant - Haru, in Karen. The restaurant is special in many ways. It is in Haru where I fell in love with Sushi. I enjoy sushi (I can eat it all year), and have been to many places, but Haru is one place that gets it right. I am a picky eater, but I always finish the sushi serving at Haru. This is probably because the food is always fresh; I have never worried about getting sick. The presentation is also excellent and the staff friendly. I notice a lot of their clientele is white but I have never felt discriminated whether I go there with an African or a mzungu friend. The service has always felt personalised. I’ve celebrated both happy and sad moments here as well as consulted over life changing decisions. My teenage son and I have had quiet meals together over a hot bowl of miso soup. You can tell I cannot wait to reunite with my sushi soon! A Peruvian experience by Tamara Britten INTI’s Peruvian chef has created a menu that’s diverse and inspiring. Try, for example, a soup of shrimp tempura, egg, noodles and coriander, or a salad of crispy tofu, avocado and cashew nuts with chimichurri dressing. Perhaps a starter of red snapper, avocado and crispy quinoa in acivichada. Or how about a main of coriander duck, red peppers and beer in a huancaina sauce. Their selection of ceviche, sashimi and sushi is a delight. To top it off, every plate is a work of art, celebrating the colours and textures of the foods as well as their tastes. Cocktails are inventive and delicious. The signature Pisco Sour is not to be missed; others include Copa de Peru, Strawberry Sake-Tini and the Spicy Seikatsu. The attentive staff, never far from your table, are happy to talk through the menu and advise on drinks, dishes and desserts, helping you find something to suit your taste. All this in an elegant and stylish setting. The sleek décor combines glass with bamboo, hanging flowers with chic lights, for a look that is refined and modern. INTI is a restaurant that really does have it all. The view alone makes this one of Nairobi’s most exciting restaurants. This fully glass restaurant sits atop One Africa Place, giving sweeping views across the capital. Watching the sun sink into the city from up here is one of the joys of Nairobi.

THE OTHER F-WORD Chef Puneet gives Travelog a glimpse into the versatile menu at Diani Reef’s Sake Oriental Restaurant By Wairimu Nyigi travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

ow many years have you been a chef at Sake? I have been a chef since 2002, however I joined Diani Reef Beach Resort and Spa last year in November. Do you have a favourite ingredient, recipe or dish? I have quite a number depending on the occasion, the person I am cooking for and the mood. However, quite a number of dishes stand out to me. These include spaghetti aglio olio and peperoncino, dumplings, noodles, sushi, gatta curry and kadhi chawal. What is the one trick cooks at home should know that has made your life easier? Planning is very important. Do this a day before and store your purees and sauces in freezer. Tell me a story (good or bad) of something that happened while you were cooking. When I was working in Abu Dhabi as a sous chef at an Italian restaurant, we had a total of 40 pax with a 4-course à la carte menu. My duty was to take orders. Ordinarily, situations in the kitchen can get quite tense. On this day, however, the pasta chef and chef de cuisine disagreed. The pasta chef left, leaving me holding forte, and I spent the first few minutes ensuring the sauces were done right, the pasta blanched and all pending orders released from the kitchen. Thankfully, everything went well. We served 120 guests that afternoon. For a fine-dining restaurant that was a lot. Have you experienced any spectacular successes or failures as a chef? As a young chef, I have been lucky to have worked with some award-winning restaurants like Mezzaluna, Brix and Casablanca. I have also won best chef employee a number of times. How important were mentors in shaping your outlook as a chef? I have been lucky to work with exemplary culinary masters who have helped shape me. Chef Michael Baptist taught me discipline, Chef Andrea Montella taught me creativity, Chef Mukul taught me endurance, Chef Sharleen Gambhir motivated me to think out of box while Michelin star chefs like Heinz Winkler, Annie Feolde, Ernesto Laccarino and Claudio Sadler taught me precision and cooking techniques. What do you tell that young chef looking up to you for inspiration. Always try and learn as much as you can from your mentors. Success it the result of hard work, experience and dedication. There is no shortcut to success. You need to work smart, be consistent and full of dedication. Gold shines when it goes under immense heat and if you decided to be chef, then go for it with full commitment. What’s your culinary goal? I hope to start a culinary award for South Coast chefs, where they get to showcase different sets of skills and win accolades for their prowess.

Nasi Goreng Ingredients For the Spice Paste: 55 gm shallots chopped 10 gm garlic chopped 1 green chili deseeded and chopped 5 gm shrimp paste For the Nasi Goreng: 600 gm cooked jasmine rice (cold) 30 ml corn oil 10 ml light soya sauce 10 gm XO sauce 3 gm salt 3 gm ground white pepper 2 Eggs 20 gm cucumber sliced 20 gm carrot sliced 20 gm prawn cracker 100 gm chicken breast, cubes 100 gm peeled prawns, cubes 20 gm fried shallot Method: 1. For spice paste, blend all the ingredients shallots, garlic, shrimp paste and green chili and set aside. 2. For Nasi goreng, use cold rice and break rice up in a bowl with your hands into individual grains. 3. Heat oil in a large wok or skillet over high heat until shimmering. Add chicken breast cubes and sautee for a minute, then add prawn cubes and cook for another minute. 4. Add spice paste and cook, stirring constantly and scraping the bottom of the wok or pan to prevent the paste from burning, until a pungent smell permeates your kitchen and the paste turns a few shades darker, two to three minutes. Reduce heat to medium at any time if the paste appears to be browning too quickly. 5. Add rice to the wok and stir to coat with the spice paste. Add XO sauce and light soy sauce. Stir and cook until rice is evenly colored and hot throughout. Season with salt and white pepper. 6. Fry two eggs sunny side up. 7. In a separate pan, heat oil to moderate temperature and fry the prawn crackers. 8.Divide rice between two plates and top each plate of rice with a fried egg. Garnish with cucumber, carrot slices and prawn crackers and shower with fried shallots. Serve hot.

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MIXOLOGIST Follow us on Instagram: @TravelogKe Twitter: @TravelogMag Facebook: Travelog Ke Website: travelog.ke

Ginuine DIY Travel and love for gin inspired a business idea By Thorn Mulli travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

Growing up, brand loyalty was guaranteed because most industries were in the hands of a few multinationals. That explains why most millennials refer to all detergents as Omo or margarine as Blue Band. In the information age, however, personal taste is triumphing over brand loyalty. Banker Andrew Mutea enjoys his gin more when he samples different ones from around the world in his travels. Back home, however, he has not been impressed by the flavours of the options available on the shelves. This is despite the fact that there are thousands of gin brands globally. There was a rumour of a craft gin distilled in Nairobi, but he would soon learn that it was solely intended for export and was not available locally. For you to know but not necessarily remember, for a distilled alcoholic drink to qualify as gin, it has to have derived its predominant flavour from juniper berries. There are 67 accepted juniper species, but most gins use the common juniper (Juniper Communis). In Kenya, we have the Juniper Procera or African juniper that is the main botanical for Procera craft gin. Birth of an idea In his research on the subject, Andrew learnt that he could as well customise distilled alcohol to his own taste. During a trip to the United Kingdom, he bought four gin kits that allowed him to tailormake his favourite tipple. With the ingredients running out, he began incorporating others with a more familiar taste from his kitchen. One day, after a particularly grueling hike on Ngong Hills, Andrew shared his creation with his hike mates to a surprising response. They loved it. When the friends requested for more of the beverage on a different occasion, Andrew, regrettably, was unable to recreate the original taste. This challenged him to begin writing down his recipes. Around the same time, he made acquaintances with a graphic designer cum lawyer called Omar Mwadzame, who also shared a passion for craft gin. Its founders are driven by the need to create an educated community of responsible gin fans. A unique partnership between these two creatives sparked founding of The Gin Trump in May 2020. Asked about the vision of the product, the two entrepreneurs said they were driven

by the need to create an educated community of responsible gin fans. â&#x20AC;&#x153;As The Gin Trump, we have channeled our passion into our favourite drink gin and exploring its different elements and composition. This leads us to develop our premier product - The Gin Trump gin making kit. This is a DIY homemade gin making kit with eight botanicals and a base spirit (vodka) that allows one to cold infuse and craft their own bottle of gin at home.â&#x20AC;? Andrew states. Kit highlights A standard kit has a maceration jar and label as well as eight botanicals sourced locally and globally for your craft gin. These include dried orange peels, cardamom, cinnamon, hibiscus, lavender, pink peppercorns and junipers. The portions account for a standard two jars of craft gin at home with a bottle of vodka and patience. To start you off, the kit comes with a booklet containing three recipes that Andrew and Omar have experimented with and come to love. They, however, encourage gin enthusiasts to attempt their own recipes with no distillation required and achieve the fantastic tastes and aromas of high-end craft gins. Enjoy your gin in 24 hours. Tastefully packaged, the gin kit, retailing exclusively online for Sh2,500, is a perfect gift that promises a fun activity for dinner parties or picnics. While at it, Ian Buxtonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 101 Gins To Try Before You Die is a must-read.

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SAVVY TRAVELLER

Musings from the Mother of Passports

ince 2016, Winnie Rioba or Just Rioba, as she is known to her social media followers, is on a mission to prove that the future of travel is female. Travelog: Why the brand ‘mother of passports’? Just Rioba: I picked it up the title when Game Of Thrones was trending. One of my favourite characters, Daenerys, went by the name Mother of Dragons and it mirrored my passion for getting my passport stamped. I could not resist. Travelog: How many countries have you been to so far? Just Rioba: 26 countries so far. Travelog: How do you fund your travel? Well, initially, I used to save my own salary to travel on my own. I, however, started making money out of travel in 2019 through content creation and writing and this obviously led to sponsored trips that currently fund my passion.

Winnie Rioba is on a mission to prove that the future of travel is female. By Peris Wambugu travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

Travelog: Do you travel on a budget and how is the experience? Just Rioba: Every chance I get, although I can now afford to throw in a little bit of luxury experiences in my itinerary. Travelling has given me the opportunity to meet the kindest human beings that I now call friends. It is amazing how I have places I can call home in at least 20 countries. They also get to call my place home whenever they visit Nairobi. Travelog: The skies opened up about two months ago, have you been to any travel expedition yet? Just Rioba: Local birds began flying in July and since then I have been to several local destinations. I am yet to board an international flight. Travelog: How did you cope during the initial stages of lockdown with the travel ban in place? Just Rioba: I went through all the stages of grieving. At first, I was in denial so I didn’t cancel my travel plans, then came the grieving process and finally acceptance. During the lockdown, I started working on my personal goals, took many online courses, tried new recipes, and joined an online book club. I also main-

tained close communication with my family and friends. To be honest, keeping busy this way helped me stay sane during the lockdown. Travelog: Favourite destination so far? Just Rioba: Each destination has a different allure but if I had to pick one, then Mpumalanga in South Africa, Diani in Kenya and Cape Maclear in Malawi stand out. Travelog: How different do you plan on taking your trips once the pandemic is over? Just Rioba: I honestly hope social distancing will be a thing even after the pandemic. We should, in fact, retain all safety protocols in place right now. Travelog: What is your favourite activity while on tour? Just Rioba: I enjoy hiking and adrenaline filled activities like scuba diving and microlight flying. These are my favourite things to do. Travelog: What is on your travel bucket list for the remaining part of the year? Just Rioba: I’ve made plans to summit Mount Kenya with a group of amazing women. I also intend to host an epic New Year’s trip for my close family and friends. Travelog: How do you ensure your safety when travelling, especially as a woman? First things first, insurance and this is all thanks to World Nomads Insurance. As a safety measure, my close circle of friends always know where I am when I am travellling. I am also against travelling solo. Being a content creator, I also refrain from posting my destination until I am two days in or after my return unless necessary. Travelog: Are you dating? I’m not interested in dating at the moment really.

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I beat Covid-19, built a travel community Travel tempers a demanding career and motherhood By Travel Buff travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

esting positive for Covid-19 is probably the worst news you can receive today. For health advocate, Dr Amakove Wala, the news that she had tested positive was shocking especially because her best friend had just succumbed to the disease. She feared more for her young children. “When I broke the news to them, they were scared that I was going to die. It took re-assuring that I would beat the disease albeit in isolation,” says Amakove Exhibiting mild symptoms, Amakove opted for home-based care. She was communicating with her supportive family via Zoom from her room. The rest of the world followed personal experience on social media; particularly Facebook, where she sought to end the stigma associated with the ailment. After mandatory isolation was over and she tested negative, the first thing that she did was take a long trip to rejuvenate her soul from the effects of being in isolation. “The drive itself and the change of scenery was therapeutic for me. I first went alone then later on took another trip with my children. You only live once had a meaning,” she narrates. Travel has always been a part of Amakove’s life considering that she was born in Mombasa and raised in Kitale. Her earliest memories of travel were the extensive train and road journeys between the two towns. So long was the journey that her mother would carry a stove to warm food for her seven siblings. During her high school years in Alliance, Amakove recalls having to travel from Kitale to

Nairobi, and this further nurtured her passion for travel. “I recall how the topography changed, from Kitale marked by maize fields to the heavily forested Eldoret and Timboroa. In college, I also got into youth groups that would travel. I remember going for hikes, outreach programmes and even visiting Makerere once,” she says. After graduating, her job entailed travelling for scientific conferences and fieldwork. Travelling with children When she became a mother, Amakove sought to instill the passion of travel in her children by mimicking her childhood journey to ‘Western’. She is raising four children, three of whom are triplets. “I started traveling with them when they were infants and with the threehourly feeds, it was easy for me to plan ahead. I would start a trip at around five in the morning and while they were still asleep, I would cosy them in the car and by dawn we would be in Nakuru. We would have breakfast and we would then stop in Kericho to stretch.” Amakove believes that travelling makes children realise that great outdoors has a lot to offer in addition to books and the internet. She ensures that she takes leave for a week every school holiday to be with her children. During that period, her nanny takes a break as she makes plans with her children on places to visit. After agreeing on the itinerary, they then decide whether to camp, couch surf, homestay or stay in a hotel. In most instances, they embark on road trips that force them to switch from a station wagon to a sports utility vehicle for rough roads. “When we traveled to Kigali, for instance, we were hosted by a Kenyan who lives there. I just want to dispel the myth that travel is expensive. Occasionally, you can spoil yourself in expensive hotels, but you can be very innovative with travel. Camping, for instance, locally averages one thousand shillings per person for those with their own camping gear. You also can reduce costs by using public transportation,” she advises During these road trips, Amakove ensures that her kids are entertained with books and music. They also talk about the things they see along the

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Travel enthusiast Dr Elizabeth Amakove Wala is an ardent traveller who shares the joys of travelling with her children Jabali (rock), Zahra (princess), Zarina (flower) and Zuena (star) [Courtesy]

way and learn facts on the places they are going to visit. Once they are there, they split the chores. “They have really gotten into this system of travel that they often ask where we are travelling next to. When I hear them describing a place to their friends, it gives me great joy because I realise that they have learnt a lot from the experience. We underestimate how much they absorb and what their opinions are and you just need to be open to it,” she adds Her children also save to travel and most of their souvenirs are bought from their own savings. “They have piggy banks and December is the month when they cash out”, Amakove says. Wanderlust travel community It is this passion for budget travel that triggered the desire to build a travel community. In April 2020, Wanderlust Diaries was launched. “The first time I posted travel content on my Facebook page, I realised that it had a great feedback from my followers and I moved the thought to an interactive platform we more people could relive their travel experiences. To give the members confidence to share their experiences, I also opened up on my experiences travelling with my children” To her amazement, over 10,000 people joined the group within 24 hours. By the time this article went to press, the group had 265,000 followers. From my experience with Wanderlust Diaries, I am convinced that humans have an inherent passion for travel. “We have a tourism sector that has been hit badly by the pandemic. From my community, Kenyans want to experience the country if only the experiences are customised to accommodate them. Some rates we see out here are simply exorbitant. Not everything has to be that expensive that it has to be quoted in dollars. The group is also giving feedback to the tourism sector players to show them how much Kenyans desire to travel only that we need to package our destinations to be right for them.”

Even with the success, controlling the content can be challenging. “To help moderate the content, I requested a travel buddy to assist. The biggest challenge was the constant bullying and body shaming by some characters. Luckily, majority of Kenyans have learnt how to stand up for

others.” Wanderlust also tries to avoid posts related to politics or religion as they evoke strong emotions. Amakove and her team restrict number of paid adverts to just one post a day so as not to lose the essence of why the group was created.

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FAMILY CORNER Follow us on Instagram: @TravelogKe Twitter: @TravelogMag Facebook: Travelog Ke Website: travelog.ke

Family vacation 101 Taking a family vacation? This is what you need to know. Peter Muiruri travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

his is witho u t doubt the l o n ge s t school holiday you will ever encounter and I bet that after the shock lockdown, you are scratching your head wondering what to do with your children. Whatever your plans are, a well-deserved holiday should be on the cards. Where do you start? What are the priority areas in planning for a holiday? We give you ten points to consider when preparing for that overdue vacation.

Prepare, prepare, and prepare — Most family holidays

go awfully wrong due to lack of enough preparation. Herding the family into the car and heading off without proper destination research is a sure recipe for disaster. Take time to know more about the location. As you seek the best deals and reviews, check whether this is the best time to travel. Importantly, find out about the location’s policy on children and confirm whether the facility complies with the set Covid-19 protocols; and what is required of guests. Go an extra step and involve your children in such preparations. They are more likely to enjoy the holiday that they were involved in preparing.

Write down the essentials — Have you ever found yourself on a destination without a vital component of the holiday? It could be as ‘simple’ as a phone charger but that small oversight may drain the juice out of your vacation. While this may look like a mundane exercise, list all the items you intend to pack including clothing. Assign one family member to cross check that all the items in the list are ready.

Issue a travel alert — While you may not inform your entire neighbourhood of your travel plans, it is wise to let a family member who is not travelling with you know of your plans. Let them check on any suspicious activity around your home.

How to get there — How far do you need to travel? What

mode of transport would you use to better utilise the time? This might as well depend on your budget there are cheap flights from Nairobi to most holiday destinations in Kenya. Early booking will spare you last minute headaches. Check out special offers posted on airline websites from time to time. You will be surprised at the deals that might pop up. Apart from flying, you can self-drive or take the affordable train to Mombasa.

Special needs — Might you be travelling with small children, the infirm and/or the elderly? These constitute a special needs group. If you are driving, small children will need a change of diapers and feeding. The elderly might need periodical bathroom breaks. Some may need to take medication at certain intervals. Factor these in your travel times.

Expect the unexpected — What happens when you lose some luggage or your cash during a trip? How do you plan to mitigate such unfortunate incidents? While travel insurance may come in handy, it is easier to prevent such scenarios in the first place. Some families divide crucial documents, cash, and credit cards among several family members for safekeeping. This reduces the chances of one individual losing all such items.

Beware of fraud — In the

age of cybercrimes, take precautions to prevent your family from becoming victims. For those ready for overseas travel, note that major banks require that a person informs them if they will be travelling away from their usual location for an extended period of time. You do not want your banker to block your card while abroad in order to keep your cash “safe”. On the other hand, the bank will flag off any unusual activity since you have informed them of your plans in advance.

Holiday activities — What do you once you get to the destination? Have you given advance thought to family activities? At the Coast, swimming seems an obvious choice. Still, you can incorporate other fun activities such as sky-diving, sightseeing, or attending a local concert. Remember to have some toys for small children if you want to have some peace during your vacation.

Create some ‘me’ time — While family activities may be fun, each member needs some time to unwind. Create some time without any activities for each member to relax or engage in their fancy. This could also be time for the couple to take a retreat away from the prying eyes of the brood.

10.

Enjoy your holiday — This is the key reason for the nine points above!

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At the feet of the

Njuri Ncheke Counsel from the council of Ameru elders

Jayne Rose Gacheri travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

he headquarters of Governing Council of Elders is the Njuri Ncheke Shrine located in Nchiru, Tigania West. Nchiru shrine is near the Meru University along Meru-Maua road and occupies a 20-acre piece of land, which is considered sacred ground. The site was chosen because of its centrality and serenity. The Nchiru Njuri Ncheke Shrine is an imposing domeshaped building inspired by an Ameru traditional elder’s house. The shrine is a heritage site under the care of the National Museums of Kenya and acts as the Supreme Court and the Ameru Parliament. It is being renovated by the National Museums at a cost of Sh3 million to be a national monument. Visitors are guided to a canopy of trees, under which sessions take place.

Membership Njuri Ncheke has a membership of approximately 5,000 elders spread across Meru and Tharaka Nithi counties. It draws membership from Ameru elite including Governor Kiraitu Murungi, a fact he does not shy away from even when addressing the County Assembly. For centuries, the revered Council of Elders was a preserve of elderly men, but not anymore. During the last few years, young and capable men have also been admitted to the Council. Initiation into Njuri Ncheke is a men-only affair. One has to be a mzee and must have undergone all the Meru cultural rites that make a man. These include circumcision, marriage and the initiation into an elder. One must also belong to a rika (age group). Some of the rikas include Miriti, Kobia, Guantai and Gichungi, meaning that anyone called by these names belongs to that age group. Election of elders happens after every decade. Mini elections are conducted at sublocation level where desired elders are elected through a non-balloting process. These are then presented to the national governing council and representatives are vetted. The candidates do not necessarily make applications, and once

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picked, one cannot decline the lifetime appointment. Visits to the Njuri Ncheke Shrine is not a “walk in, walk out” sort of place. Entry is through a special guide, known to the Njuri Ncheke. Visitors must observe a strict code of conduct and must not venture inside the Shrine unless under special permission from the elders, which includes a ritual. Adjudicating cases As early as the 17th Century, Njuri Ncheke has always adjudicated community issues in Meru and Tharaka Nithi counties. Such matters include environmental conservation. The Council of Elders is no respecter of personalities. Anyone who is brought before it or comes to it for an arbitration matter is treated equally. Most of the conflicts are resolved at Njuri Ncheke “houses” (nyumba ya njuri), found at sub-location levels. The Supreme Council only handles intra Njuri Ncheke disputes and appeals. The conflictresolution methods used by the Council of E l d e r s include determination of cases, oatht a k-

ing, counselling, peace crusades, dialogue and instilling discipline among community members. When the elders issue a decree, the message reverberates from Thuci River, which marks the border of Embu and Tharaka Nithi counties and the entry point of the greater Meru, to Ntonyiri – the last point of the vast Meru community land. “The Council of Elders’ word is law. Even the courts respect the Njuri Ncheke Supreme Council of Elders. The fines they impose go unchallenged.” Julius Kobia (chairman) says. Standing the test of time The system of governance has had its fair share of challenges — turmoil,

uncertainty, political interference, division and neglect, among others. This has often times affected the smooth running of the Council of Elders. After independence, Njuri Ncheke experienced a let-up which saw the shrine abandoned, vandalised and construction material stolen. The Council, however, has weathered these storms to continue performing its role. It has always provided an alternative dispute-resolution mechanisms that have supported the Judiciary. The county government is making plans to establish a cultural centre, a home for the aged and a hospitality facility at the shrine. I know you are curious as to what is inside the Nchiru Shrine and why it is a secret. While I might know, I am not brave enough to let the cat out the bag lest I face the full wrath of the council! You just might have to make the journey to get the answer.

Read full tale on www.travelog.ke

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No Hotel? No Problem. Camp

Hate or love it, nothing comes close to real freedom than a touch of nature

do-it-yourself holiday is an exciting way to explore your country and camping is an inexpensive way to do it. There are over 200 official campsites in Kenya, and you can choose to add your backyard to the list. If you are trying to dip your feet into the outdoor world, then here are a few tips that you need for tent camping.

Transportation How to get there is a crucial factor linked to the location. When you engage the services of a tour company, the issue of transportation is instantly sorted. However, if you choose to self-drive, then a suitable means of transport is essential. An off road vehicle is recommended if the camp is off the tarmac. You can also opt to hire a camping vehicle that is completely equipped with your camping necessities. Please draw up a checklist for functioning spare wheels, charging equipment, and extra fuel if the location is too remote. If your selected camping area rents out equipment, then you don’t have to carry a lot of things, but if they don’t, then you will need to be well prepared.

Location, location, location You have the option of picking either public or private campsites. For most public grounds you can expect basic facilities but some don’t offer any. You, therefore, have to confirm in advance to prepare adequately. You need to find a camping site that is well-marked, easily accessible, fenced off or strategically located under shade. As a camper, you should avoid areas near trash containers, toilets or shower houses. Camp furthest from the campground amenities. “Campers have dofferent preferences. There are those who prefer to be near the comforts civilization and those who run from it,” notes Brian Maingi, Manager Fishpark Adventure Camp, Nakuru. Their campsite

The all-important tent Owning your own camping gear is ideal, especially if you’d like to turn camping into a hobby. It would be best if you had a tent that has sewn groundsheets and mosquito netted windows. Going Outdoor is the place to acquire most of your camping necessities. They stock different brands such as the Outwell brand of all-weather tents that can accommodate two to five people and the Easy Camp brand that has basic two-person tents. “The terrain of your preferred site makes it easier for us to advice you on the suitable tent,” explains Arthur, a sales representative for Going Outdoor Ltd. If you are camping one-off, renting is your best move. Kifaru Kampers are the people to

Ivy Waridi travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

Campers at Fishpark Adventure Camp. [Courtesy]

offers other adventure activities such as ziplining and boat riding. Maingi further states that it is not advisable to camp to close to water bodies because it can be hazardous especially when it starts raining. It is also advisable not to pitch your tent across game trails.

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talk to for your outdoor equipment rentals. They also assist clients in setting and dismantling camps. They have different packages depending on your needs. If you seek a custom tent, Tarpo Industries can also design one to your specification. The brand is famous for the Barsaloi luxury safari tent, Il Ngwesi luxury tent and the Santiago. The Santiago is suitable for personal use; it takes two people half an hour to set up. It is double roofed and made of raincoat material. “We have a wide catalogue that caters to different needs. We also customise the tents by taking down your measurements designs and manufacture as requested,” Salome Mungai from Tarpo Industries told Travelog. “Tarpo also has a hire division where you can hire tents and camping equipment on short- or long-term leasing,” adds Salome. You can also purchase other camping equipment from Tarpo such as hammocks, canvas wine coolers, collapsible air camping mattresses and sleeping bags. As a beginner, the tent and accessories you pick are dependent on where you decide to set up camp. Your tent and sleeping bag should fit the weather conditions. Accessories Your camp is not complete without camping accessories. Apart from the furniture, your camp kitchen needs a stove, stove fuel, cooler box, pans, re-usable containers, knife, and water bottles. This list is affected by the availability of these amenities at the camping ground. Some campsites provide you with all the utensils needed, and you are only required to carry cooking ingredients. When picking your camping stove, weight is a major factor.

Most people tend to carry their gas stoves (meko) but it is not advisable. Camping stoves fall in two categories: liquid fuel stoves and canister fuel stoves. You are able to access these in select supermarkets, adventure stores or have yours made in hardware shops. “We stock Campinggaz and Cadac for your outdoor cooking and utensils needs,” Arthur points out. Brian Maingi who is also an avid camper likes to be one with nature; he prefers to set up a campfire to cook rather than carrying a camping stove. Be prepared The more you camp, the more you will be able to determine the shortcomings and shape your gear list accordingly. In addition to these essentials, you need to have a first aid kit and a source of light. As a camper, your mantra is ‘be prepared’. You have to learn how to be self-sufficient or entirely dependent as you explore different camping sites. “Every unplanned experience is an adventure,’” explains Mercy Murugi who is an enthusiastic camper. Mercy states that her biggest expense while camping is fuel, therefore her fuel budget determines her destination. She carries food, utensils from home and cooks as she would in her house. “I write threads on Twitter about travelling on a budget and camping is a big part of it, but not everyone understands how a piece of cloth can keep you safe from outside elements,” stated Murugi. She loves camping in Northern Kenya especially Samburu because it gives one both the bush and camping experience. Camping is the best way to reconnect with yourself and getting out of your comfort zone as a first-timer. It is advisable to share your camping location with your loved ones, and it may be better not to go on your first camping trip alone as a beginner. Happy Camping!

Travelog team camping at Ol Pejeta. [David Gichuru]

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BUDGET PICK

experience awakens the child in you. I am inclined to agree because I immediately took off my shoes and dipped my feet in the water. Slide down the smooth rocks ending with playful crashes into an oasis follows. At Ngurunit, the scorching heat is momentarily forgotten.

By Ivy Waridi travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

orget everything they told you about Marsabit county except the heat; please remember that. We know the dangers of a single story, but I could not shrug off my preconception of the former Northern Frontier District. My perception pool of drought, insecurity and non-existent infrastructure was about to be muddled. My single story changed the moment I left Nanyuki for Marsabit.

Getting there I have a love-hate relationship with travelling. While I enjoy getting to the destination, Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m not too fond of the journey part. The drive down to Marsabit was refreshing. I experienced every hue of nature from dry patched grass to galloping camels, from defensive ostriches racing across the fields to gentle gazelles stretched out to get succulent leaves at the top of the young trees. The road was smooth sailing from Nanyuki town to my first stopover in Laisamis. A national identity card is obligatory if you want to get through the security barriers painlessly. In Laisamis, I found rest at the Laisamis Catholic Guest House

BIT of MARS Forget everything they told you about Marsabit County except the heat; please remember that

and Conference Centre. Nothing fancy but it was very clean. You have to make a reservation in advance, but you have the option of heading to Marsabit town for other accommodation options. In hindsight, I did not get to experience what the county has to offer fully, but here is what Marsabit in three days looked like. Swimming at Note Mountains in Ngurnit. Nguni is a small town in Mars bit County and is one of the greenest. Without an off road vehicle, the drive to the stream can be a bit hectic. As such, comfortable shoes and a guide is recommended. It was the onset of the dry season in the region, but during the rainy season, you might run into an elephant or other wild animals. Thankfully, I only had white rocks to contend with. Someone told me that the

Chalibâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s dry charm Experience the Sand Dunes in the Chalbi Desert. The magical desert is one of the hottest and most arid places in Kenya. In Gabra dialect, Chalbi means bare and salty. Mark my words, the tide of desert safaris is shifting from the Middle East closer home. If adventure is your travel fix then Chalbi has memories be made. A fitting vehicle will help you enjoy this gen off tarmac. A night in a Manyatta. I slept in a manyatta people, and I want to do it again. I was very sceptical as we were driving down to Korr another hamlet in Marsabit. The dusty road did not paint a great image of the destination. We got to Ebenezer Guest House, and it changed my perception on many things after seeing its raw beauty. It is a family-owned business, and they are very hospitable. My manyatta had three beds, and you can imagine what I did with that space. The compound has a total eight manyattas. It still amazing how delightfully cool the belly of manyatta even in the searing heat. Nights in Marsabit are beautiful, and I spent a lot of time outside just watching an unmatched Marsabit sky.

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ABROAD

Kampala, Africa’s faith centre

Gadaffi Mosque Baha’i Temple

Why pilgrims of three major religions converge at the heart of Uganda’s capital By Travel Buff travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

Every June 3, Anglicans and Catholics from all over Africa flock to Kampala to follow in the footsteps of the Ugandan martyrs, commemorating their profound faith. Before the pandemic, it is estimated that over 10,000 people visited just to connect with their faith. Several events including baptism, prayers and feasting mark that day. Moreover, Christians are not the only faith who makes pilgrimage to Kampala, the city of seven hills. The city hosts the largest mosque in East Africa - Gaddafi National Mosque and Africa’s only Baha’i Temple, the magnificent temple named as the Mother Temple of Africa. The United Nations World Tourism organisation estimates that globally, around 300-330 million tourists visit the world’s key religious sites annually with approximately 600 national and international religious voyages in the world. The largest form of mass religious tourism happens in Mecca where nearly two million pilgrims as well as about 14 million people tour the city annually. This means that the world can no longer ignore the contribution of this kind of tourism to economies. Christianity My first stop was at Namugongo Matyrs Church Cathedral - the first Anglican headquarters in Uganda. It is here that 49 martyrs were burnt to death for professing their faith. In 1879, the first Roman Catholic missionaries came to Uganda and established a church there. The first Kabaka Mutesa welcomed and tolerated this new faith but his successor, Kabaka Mwanga, did not. The latter’s dalliance with Arabs who per-

charged for entry and modest attire required. The late Muammar Gaddafi financed its construction after the original plan of the 1970s by the late Idi Amin Dada was abandoned after his death. Construction was carried out by Moroccan engineers and began in the year 2003. The carpets were imported from Lybia while the magnificent chandeliers were imported from Egypt. The Namugongo mahogany wall fixtures were imported from DRC Congo Matyrs Church and on it is calligraphy with 99 beautiful names of Allah as well as verses from the holy Quran for meditation. The structure can host 35,000 members - 25,000 men and 10,000 women. In 2008, it was handed over to the Ugandans. In the mosque, visitors learn the history of Islam in Uganda. It takes 314 stairs to get to the minaret, the highest point at the mosque. From here, one has breathtaking views of the old Kampala city. The city was once a thick forest before the British transformed it into a city. The Baganda dominate the central Requirements for region and around a fifth Kenyans visiting Uganda petuated slave trade did not sit well of Ugandans speak · To enter Uganda, a passport valid for at least with missionaries who were against Luganda. six months from the date of entry Passport/ or the vice. The ensuing friction ended Baha’i Faith a temporary one with a macabre attack on the misOur last stop was sionaries and their followers. the magnificent · Alternative travel documents like Covid 19 test Those who did not denounce Baha’i temple. This is certificate and yellow fever certificate. Christianity were speared, others the only temple in jailed or hanged, others had their · Ensure that you change your cash to Uganda Africa for the Baha’i bodies dragged on grit until they shillings in the country for a better rate. religion and hence has bled to death. Even the Kabaka’s own Mobile money transfer is available but the most visitors. As I sister, Catherine Kalapa, died for her at an extra cost. would learn, the Baha’i faith. In the shrine, sculptures depict faith is dynamic and has the suffering of the martyrs. over seven million faithful Our next stop was at the Basilica Church from a variety of cultures and reliof the Uganda Martyrs, which is affiliated with gion. The central figure of the relithe Roman Catholics in Uganda. It is around three gion is Baha’u’llah, and the followers look up to him as kilometres from the Anglican Church where majorthe latest in a series of divine messengers. The Baha’i ity of the Catholics were martyred. The late Pope religion gained root in matokeland in the year 1951, Paul VI spearheaded the construction of the church making it one of the earliest religions in East Africa. on his visit to Uganda in 1969. The late Pope John The temple was built around 1957 on top of Kikaya Paul II visited Uganda in 1993 and made pilgrimage Hill located around three kilometres north of Kampala to the Basilica. Pilgrims can buy souvenirs like docuand sits on 52 acres. It features a 130-foot dome and is mentaries, rosaries and book items at the bookshop 44 feet wide. The unique architecture was inspired by before departure. an African hut and photography of its sacred interior is Islam prohibited. The Baha’i temple is a preferred wedding Kampala is also home to the national mosque destination favoured for its beautiful gardens. referred to as Gadaffi mosque. A fee of Sh500 is

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By Vivienne Wandera travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

Pro tips from a PGA-certified golf instructor

ong revered as a gentleman’s game, etiquette-driven golf can seem complex to some. Travelog had a chat with Saleem Haji, a PGAcertified golf instructor and golf director at Vipingo Ridge, about the future of Kenyan golf in the shadows of a global pandemic

I would say that it does because the exposure that the Country gets as a whole by having hours of live TV coverage at events that are televised worldwide is a huge marketing boost for the Country as it also gives Kenya a chance to show off it’s beaches, wildlife and the other things that make Kenya a great tourist destination.

When did your interest in golf begin? Luckily both my parents played golf so I got exposed at an early age, but really didn’t take an interest in it until I was 18 and left school. How long did it take for you to become a PGA certified trainer? You have to have achieved a high level of playing ability by having a handicap of 3 or below and then once you apply to be an assistant professional you enroll in a three-year course where you are supervised by a fully qualified PGA Professional. I followed this path, qualified, and have been refreshing my skills to remain competitive.

Should golf be introduced in school games in Kenya just like other sports? I think it is a good thing that schools may at least have it as an extra curricular activity. I am not sure golf is ready for mass numbers, but if a child is interested to learn they should be encouraged. In Vipingo, we conduct lessons for a local school whose lives have been affected by HIV and they really enjoy it. Do you think people shy away from golf because an elite’s sport? Yes perhaps but I also think that this attitude is slowly changing and with the availability of cheaper entry levels to golf this will encourage more people to take up the game.

What are the benefits of being a PGA certified instructor? You have exposure to a greater knowledge base on all aspects of being a golf Professional from coaching, golf management, club building and repairs, custom fitting and any other field that you may be interested in or want to focus on. What key lessons must every beginner master when learning to play golf. Habits die-hard so it important to master the key to rotation without moving your head early so that it acts as the centre point for your rotational movement. Good hand eye co-ordination is also very helpful to have as it is in any other sport. What are the most common mistakes people make in golf? Listening to the opinions of their fellow golfers as to what mistakes they are making, rather than seeking professional advice. What goes into the making of a

Tee time

PGA certified golf course? The key criteria are construction methods used as well as having a PGA certified professional at the venue overseeing the golf operations. Does the generous support by government to golf ventures yield equal value?

With Kenya hosting a leg of the European Tour, is it a way of enticing women to take part in golf. Yes I believe it is because it exposes the local players/spectators to see golf being played by men or women at the highest level. I think this motivates local golfers to work more at improving their own game. The ladies European Tour would have been held this month. From 2019’s tournament, what is the state of Kenya’s women golf players? Well, I think there is advancement in women’s golf and I have done some equipment testing on couple of young lady players who are showing real progress and have a really good work ethic, which is a very important part of playing better golf. Like many other sports, golf is also very male dominated. What does this say for the future of women in golf? I think the future of Women’s golf is bright and I think there are more women taking up the game than ever before.

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MADE IN KENYA

Blanket comfort touches home How July cold season inspired a business idea ByPeter Muiruri travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

magine watching the rain falling on the grass outside your house and getting a business idea out of it. That is exactly what happened when Becky Ndega-Latif watched the rains pound some flowers outside her house in July 2013. It was cold inside the house when Becky took the popular checked Maasai shuka and wrapped herself. She barely got warm. Brand inspiration “What if I sew a blanket on one side of the shuka?” she thought. That is what she did. She took the Maasai shuka, stitched it on the inside with a fleece fabric to create a soft, warm and comfortable plush throw. Happy with her creation, she made another one for her husband as a gift. “And what stops me from stitching such fleece blankets and add value to the Maasai shuka?” From warding off the cold, Indigo6 was born, an outfit aptly named after the rarely-mentioned colour. Seven years later, her fleece blankets have become a hit with Becky losing count of the highflying individuals who have wrapped themselves with her fleece blankets both within Kenya and outside our borders. From President Uhuru Kenyatta and Deputy President William Ruto together with their spouses, Becky’s blanket knows no rank. Then there are musicians Yvonne Chakachaka, Kidum, Koffi Olomide, and the late Papa Wemba and Oliver Mtukudzi. Local groups such as Sauti Sol have braved cold evenings with the blanket. Sometimes it took just one public figure to don the blanket for some of their fans to be seen with blankets. They have become regular features in the open-air music festivals. To add more value to the blankets, Becky personalises the blankets by adding an individual’s name and a small message if one so wishes. Price point So fast was the buzz that Becky did not even have the correct price in the early days. She started production from her living room with an initial capital of Sh5,000. Then she opened a workshop in Westlands in 2017. The blankets now retail for Sh4,500.

Her business caught on and she had to quit formal employment to produce the blankets on a full-time basis. A bigger surprise came when one of her friends headed to South Africa to meet Oprah Winfrey. Oprah’s handlers needed to know of a good African gift to give the guest. Now, most of us would have been happy to buy her some of the best coffee on the continent, but again, she must have packets upon packets of these in her house. Becky’s friend phoned her and told her to prepare and ship, not just one blanket, but four! Normally, it takes her three to four days to work on just one, but in this case, all four were ready in one day. “Google is our friend and I was able to tell Oprah’s favourite colours in record time. I am amazed at how the fleece blankets just got a life of their own or the speed in which a simple idea can grow given the right conditions,” says Becky. It is making Kenyans believe that ‘Made in Kenya’ has the same or is of better quality than imported stuff. “There is a notion that ‘Made in Kenya’ is inferior and thus should cost less that that which comes rom outside,” she says. Ultimate goal “There is a notion that ‘Made in Kenya’ is inferior and thus should cost less than imported stuff. I am keen on changing that,” she says. While Covid 19 may have put some brakes on the production, it has not dampened the vision. Trendy blankets are still in vogue. Before Covid-19, she would make between 20 to 25 blankets a day but when Covid-19 hit, the number reduced to about 15 a day. Currently, she is operating with two tailors doing embroidery hoping business will improve and she could perhaps hire more fundis. In fact, Becky now wants to compliment her blankets with personalised hoodies, again with personalised scriptural messages to uplift the soul. And if all goes well, she will create some beddings with recycled bedsheets and table cloths thus restoring beauty from another’s trash. For Becky, it appears the cold season heralds good business tidings.

SHOOTING SCENE Front: Smiling camels of Garissa [MarkDenver Karubiu] Back: Maiden train ride on the revamped Thika-Nanyuki railway [David Gichuru]