a
Winter 2015 publication
Sergio Gil ‘Shein’ loving the search Photo: Joao Sousa | Cabo Verde Islands
4 Winter 2015
Welcome
Welcome to Pulse. Winter is not the most popular time to skim. It’s these colder months when the dedicated skimboarders find solace in the empty beaches and chillier conditions. That extra effort of slipping into a cold wetsuit that’s still dripping from yesterday’s session...it can be worth it when the session goes right. This issue is stacked with photos and stories from those kinds of sessions. From glory days on the Hawaiian islands to all time days at Aliso, sit back and get ready to sift through a few hundred pages of glory. – David and Jackie
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10 Editor’s Note 36 Covered: Skim Junky Mike Kordich tells us all about Skim Hint: It’s more than just a 16 Spoken: Derek Popple Junky. website full of videos. 20 Mouthwater 48 Grom Corner: Lucas Fink 28 Noteworthy Brazil’s mini grom is growing up fast, and his pro endeavors have started strong. 34 PROPIONATED: Most Underrated?
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Contents
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60 Leading Lady: Ellen Wood
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The DJ, the camp counselor, the snowboarder, the skimboarder: Ellen Wood
72 George Bryan on Hawaii
Does this surfing mecca deserve more attention? Geo tackles this question and more.
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84 Interview: Morgan Just
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One of Laguna’s top goofy footers talks creativity, progression, and travel.
96 Exposure 40 stellar photos from across the globe. 172 #skimpulsive ou tagged your pics, we chose one. Y
Our favorite’s a goody. Check it.
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Editor’s note
We’re just one magazine, and we only come out four times a year. Think about it, four male pros a year earn an interview spot in our magazine, but there are far more than just four professional skimboarders who deserve an interview. Each issue, we try to limit our magazine to 200 pages, and now – almost 800 pages later–I could still list 20 skimboarders who deserve a shot in our magazine, but haven’t had one.
“...there are far more than just four professional skimboarders who deserve an interview. ” I feel like we have an obligation to showcase the best talent around, but more so, I also feel like we have an obligation to create the best magazine possible. So each issue, we’re left with decisions like this: “Should we run a third A+ shot of this top pro, or should we run this B+ shot of this new grom we’ve never heard about?” It’s a weird balance and a complex set of decisions we have to make. When we started the mag-
azine, I didn’t really anticipate we would dwell on these types of things. Even though the skim world is pretty small, there’s a whole lot of stories, events, and riders that we just don’t have the time, resources, or pages to cover. So we’ve kinda given up on the idea that we’ll cover everything. We cover what we can, and we try to make it awesome, but don’t for a second think that everything that happens in the skim world is covered in our magazine. There’s plenty of amazing media that gets dropped somewhere online, and–for one reason or another–we can’t fit it in the magazine. I’m grasping at a couple different points with this. One, we can only cover the stuff that gets sent to us. Two, there are a lot of skimboarders out there who deserve some recognition, and we simply can’t cover them all. Three, this is the skim world as it is filtered through my own connections and Jackie’s connections. There’s a whole lot more going on, and for now, we hope you readers see this magazine as just one piece of the pie. We hope you agree that this small piece is a whole lot better than an empty plate. -David Haefele
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Editor’s note Geo Reyes, Underexposed Photo: Dwight Mudry | Laguna, CA
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The Team The team at Pulse consists of enthusiastic skimboarders who are passionate about showcasing the sport in the best possible light. The team has created this publication as a way to interconnect the skim community through beautiful words, images, and design.
David Haefele /Editor
David finished 28th on the UST in 2013. His background in writing and experience in photography and marketing shape how Pulse is portrayed both in the pages and throughout other online channels.
Jackie Gollbach /Creative Director
Jackie has a long list of first-place contest finishes. Her graphic-design style is lively and clever but also professional and sleek, a style that complements ocean photography and creatively accents skimboarding media.
Derek Makekau /Associate editor
Derek founded and ran ForeverSkim the Magazine for nearly a decade. He now runs 20/30north Studios, and he’s helping with various major and minor decisions over at Pulse.
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Contributors This publication would not be possible without photographers and contributors. Be sure to click on the linked buttons throughout the issue for direct access to their feeds. Give your favorites a follow or a like: they deserve it. George Bryan Derek Popple Matt O’Brien Andre Magarao Patricia Broda Matthew Marbach Taylor Osborn Jeff Davis Kevin Newcomer Andre Callado Tyler Brooks Dwight Mudry Dallas Kingsbury Fabiana Badie Brendan McGeown
Jason Wilson Joe Bailey Chris Beletsis Joao Sousa Joe Adams Dylan Burzinski Clint McLaughlin Larry Liesure Daniel Pardini Sergio Dos Santos Les Morales Avnesh Gandikota Drew Khorasanni Tori Mogford Matt McDonald
cover shot
Paddy Mack, Laguna, CA
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Wendy Caputo Sergio Gil ‘Shein’ Dave Scott Thais Racy Joan Wood Jacob Gill Brian Carroll Corinne Conklin Diana Rios Fabrico Bruno Felipe Negro Daniel Caparros Pedro Sequera Tony Liuzzi Sean Bailey
“For the last couple years the Aliso sider always delivers in January. I have photos from the last couple years from the same exact week. In November and December huge north swells filled in all the sand that was taken from the summer souths. I was the first one skimming this morning, but slowly I saw more people looking at it from the cliff, so I ended up getting out to shoot just in time to see Paddy land one of the biggest airdrops I’ve ever seen.” - Matt O’Brien
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Spoken: Derek Popple As a filmer, I obsess over the quality of edits. I am constantly watching videos to find inspiration and grow as an editor. However, it is frustrating to see that for every good edit out there, there are ten mediocre edits. Publishing videos that contain unlanded tricks and choppy slow motion presents the sport in a bad light and detracts from the unique experience of skimboarding. Anyone who produces media should aspire to produce quality content in order to continue the growth of the sport.
“... an edit should epitomize the passion and stoke you have for the sport. .” Edits are the only way to define the sport for people who lack access to a spot. While everyone views skimboarding differently, an edit should epitomize the passion and stoke you have for the sport. DB Skimboards 2012 remains my favorite skim edit because even though it is just a teaser, it makes me want to drop everything and go skim. By taking time to carefully plan out shots and put effort into your tricks, you are attempting to capture the experience that we all share. Producing photos and video is the best way to express what skimboarding means to you. By posting an edit, you are telling the world, “This is what I think skimboarding is all about,” and allowing the skim community to form their opinions on your interpretation. People base their opinion of the sport on the content they see, so if they see a top notch edit, they will relate it to a thriving sport.
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SPOKEN
Putting in work Photo: Dallas Kingsbury | San Francisco, CA
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Time well spent Photo: Dallas Kingsbury | San Francisco, CA
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SPOKEN Filming is also a catalyst for the progression of the sport. When a skimmer lands a new trick on film, it tells riders from all over the world that the trick is possible and motivates people to practice the trick until they have it mastered. Without edits, no one would know that it is possible to hit massive rails or do flip tricks on flat. All the way back in 2007, riders like Matt Head and Mike Louie were attempting varials. While the varials were far from clean, generations of skimboarders entered the sport knowing it is possible to flip a skimboard. As these tricks become commonplace, they become stepping stones as people add to what was once some of the hardest tricks in skimboarding. Regardless of ability, a quality edit inspires riders to push themselves and try something new. For someone who has never skimmed, a sick edit can be the motivation to get on a board for the first time. Filming is the catalyst of progression because it inspires the entire skim community to keep pushing the sport.
“...even for beginners, the quality of an edit is directly proportional to the amount of work you put in..” Obviously experienced editors put out great work because they’ve practiced and put effort into improving their craft; however, even for beginners, the quality of an edit is directly proportional to the amount of work you put in. Whether you’re shooting with an HVX or a GoPro, take time to ensure that your edit captures whatever skimboarding means to you. Think about your shots, get creative with your edits and don’t be afraid to try something new. Most importantly, keep filming because you never know if you’ll be providing a stepping stone to move the sport forward.
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Mouthwater
Mouthwater
Our photo section starts on page 96, but here are a few standout shots to get your vitals pumping. Blair Conklin, Right at home Photo: Joe Adams | Laguna, CA
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Mouthwater
Jason Wilson, Mid Boost Photo: Kevin Newcomer | Dewey Beach, DE
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Mouthwater
Scott Bishop, Tailgate Smith Photo: Dylan Burzinski | Folsom, CA
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Mouthwater
Austin Keen, Textbook Railgrab Photo: Clint McLaughlin | Laguna, CA
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note worthy
Skimboarding’s top social trends
sKim City Greg
One of the sport’s biggest personalities Greg Krolczyk had a major heart attack in early December. Thankfully, the doctors were able to remove a blood clot and insert two stents in his heart. After a few long weeks in the hospital, Greg is on his way to recovery, and there’s even a Just4Fun skim contest planned to help with his hospital bills.
Shorebreak: the evolution of Skimboarding
We’ve been anticipating this movie for a year. Tony Liuzzi and his crew traveled along the entire 2014 UST and made quite a few stops along the way. It’s a feature-length documentary about the birth, growth, and life of skimboarding as told by many top pros. The premiere date is set: April 30th at the Grove in Anaheim, CA. Be there.
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Advertiser NoteWorthy index
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note worthy videos rding . skimboa months best ree of the the past th picks Staff web from on the
Austin Keen - Boat Sider & Aliso Creek / Toeknee Media
A wrecked boat, some flawless backside rail grabbing, a mystery sider, and some chill vibes. If you finish this video and you’re not in the mood to go skim, then something is wrong. Seriously wrong.
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NoteWorthy Adrien Raza Mini Edit / DB Skimboards
See Adrien tackle the kickers and rails with some wicked shuvit combos. Most of the video is in slow mo, so you can count the rotations, and the water droplets if you need to.
Lucas Fink Pro Skimboarding / Andre Callado
One of Brazil’s shining stars just went pro at 16, and, it’s well deserved. If you need more Lucas, then flip on over to his interview. After this clip, we think you’ll want to read it.
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Skimdulgence 2014 / Daniel Voysey
The aussie crew scored epic conditions at the annual contest-pilgrimage to a remote spot called Shatters in southern Australia this year. See how siders down under connect on the Yorke Peninsula.
Corey Ryan Skimboarding in Santa Cruz / Skimshady
A few clips of one of the smoothest skimmers in the game riding this Santa Cruz sider like he was born on the cliff. Regular footers rejoice, here’s a frontside sider with some meat on its bones.
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NoteWorthy SO SICK Harbor Bickmore / Bickmore Skimboards
Harbor’s section from SO SICK showcases some fancy footwork. Dancing atop drain pipes to a rad beat, it’ll get you pumped. And that ender is one to watch over and over.
Double Backflip / Brandon Benson
You probably saw this already. It’s a double widdley by Brandon Benson, and it went kind of viral. In case you missed it, here it is again.
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Propini Most UnderRated Skimboarder? Blair Conklin
During this past Oktoberfest contest I had the pleasure of watching Roderick “Manoy” Bazar compete against another fellow Filipino. Both of these guys were really well rounded skimboarders, and could have easily competed in the professional division. Some other underrated riders are Geo Reyes from South Laguna, and John Weber from Dewey Beach. John and Geo both have great style and aren’t afraid to charge when it comes to big Wedge or powerful Aliso. Photo: Matt O’Brien
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propinionated
onated Paddy Mack
I feel like Geo Reyes is the most underrated skimmer. Kid has outrageous style, and charges bombs. He doesn’t have the luxury of sponsors to help him get on planes to epic skim destinations, or into contests where he can compete with the rest of the talented guys. I’m stoked I’ve been able to watch him grow from a grom to the steezy charger he is now. Photo: Joe Bailey
Emanuel Embaixador
For me, the most underrated guy is Geo Reyes. I’ve known him for so long...he’s so good, stylish, and he has a strong approach to the waves. But he’s still not doing so well in contests. With some support, I think this year he could be up there where he deserves. Photo: Thais Racy
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Covered: Skim Junky It’s more than just a website full of skim videos. Mike Kordich with the help of George Bryan have created a skimboarding video database of sorts, and the ultimate goal of the project is to create a hub where skimboarders can share videos with each other in a clean, searchable environment. On top of the website, Skim Junky just released their first full-length DVD, entitled The Addiction. After seeing two big moves from this crew, we caught up with Mike to see what the future holds for Skim Junky. Sam Stinnett, Fronside Aerial Photo: George Bryan | Laguna, CA
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Covered
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Blair Conklin, Perfect Spot Photo: George Bryan | Laguna, CA
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Covered
Covered: Skim Junky Responses by Mike Kordich Interview by David Haefele What is the motivation behind creating Skim Junky? I believe that passion is everything. I believe if the energy of passion is flowing, your entire life becomes alive. One of my passions is skimboarding. When I’m doing it, nothing else but the relationship between me and the wave exists. Another passion I have is traveling. I love to adventure and experience new cultures and everything they provide. My primary intention with Skim Junky was to combine these two passions and see where it all it went. It got me to Newport Beach, CA away from Boca Raton, FL. When I arrived I began working on a website utilizing one of my primary skills, web design. I had the inspiration to create a platform that curates and organizes all the skimboarding videos on the internet, whether it was YouTube or Vimeo. I wanted the site to be for everything skimboarding and bring the entire international community together.
“ I had the inspiration to create a platform that curates and organizes all the skimboarding videos on the internet... ” PULSE SKIMBOARDING 39
I wanted it to be a place where the average skimboarder who can’t make it to all the competitions can create a profile and document their adventures or their local sessions with their friends. They can give a story about it and give it context, where it’s not just cool tricks and beautiful waves, but there’s actually a story behind it. A story created by them. Explain where the site is right now, and where it’s headed. Right now, the website is still in Beta. It’s not everything that we want it to be yet. The ultimate intention is to create a database where everything skimboarding is there where you can search by rider. So if you want to watch clips of Blair, you can type in Blair in the search and find his clips or go to the riders page and select him from a list. I also wanted to have another page that separates videos by well-known spots. But the ultimate in-
Photos: George Bryan
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Covered
“ Without the competitive energy, more of a collaborative energy where everyone works together.” tention is to create a place for user-generated content. So right now we’re just taking everything that’s already been made and organizing it for people. Ultimately, we’re looking to have people have their own profiles. So some of the major producers out there taking their time to make great videos can have a profile to put their latest content. Somebody could just search for them and see everything they’ve made, kind of as a personal space for them. But it’s not easy for everyone to just make a profile or know about it, so we had to start from somewhere, and that’s just organizing everything. The ultimate intention is to create an organism that consists of everyone in the community that functions as a medium for us all to work together to give this amazing sport exposure. Without the competitive energy, more of a collaborative energy where everyone works together.
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Camels Photo: George Bryan | Laguna, CA
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Covered What’s the future look like? Do you see the site becoming a personalized profile-based site soon? Yeah I see it evolving soon. In a short period of time it’s grown very quickly. I think a lot of that has to do with the Instagram page. Primarily the Instagram was just started because I was documenting my adventures out in Newport, following my primary passions to travel and document my adventures. When I was out in Newport, I started realizing that there’s a lot of guys out there who are giving it their all. There’s a lot of good skimboarders, but nobody really knows about them. Utilizing the following that I have, I wanted to use that power to help
“ the energy of people having fun together is why we all started to skim, or it’s at least the reason I started to skim. ” those people, to give them exposure. Sometimes that makes a big difference for somebody who has been giving it their all. There’s a lot of spots and there’s people getting into the sport who are really good. One of the things that we want to do with Skim Junky is help everyone see each other, to see the videos that they’re creating, to see the spots, to share, to have fun together, and to make relationships outside of competition. Competition is good. It progresses things, but it’s really just the energy of people having fun together is why we all started to skim, or it’s at least the reason I started to skim.
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When you’re looking through videos online, what kinds of things do you really look for? We like videos that expose the environment behind the spot as well, not just the waves. I like to see the spots and all the elements that surround the spots, whether it be the coves in Laguna, or the siders in Brazil, or even small liners in Florida, to expose more than just the tricks or the good wave, but the actual community and the deeper elements that are behind it.
Photos: George Bryan | Laguna, CA
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Covered
photo: larry Leisure
Tell me more about The Addiction. At Oktoberfest I came into contact with George Bryan. I was trying to find someone to help me progress Skim Junky towards the vision that I had. When we met up, we were talking, and I guess we were on the same wave length. Through George’s entire life, he’s always tried to expose skimboarding outside of competitions through his videos with his brother for 10th Street Bros. They always documented their adventures and all their good times with their friends. And I respected George for all the time and commitment he put into skimboarding. I believe with his actions, he was one part of making skimboarding what it is today. So me and George teamed up and I originally wanted to help digitize all his old movies so people could access them. A lot of his old movies are lost or on VHS or on DVD. But he wanted to keep creating new stuff. So he had the idea
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Paulo Prietto, In Form Photo: George Bryan | Laguna, CA
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Covered
“...he wanted to keep creating new stuff. So he had the idea of coming out with this movie. ” of coming out with this movie. He wanted to give a fresh perspective to it. So he collaborated with Kai Hayes, who’s from Vilano. Kai is known for making a lot of movies out there in Vilano. I guess the mission of the movie is to show what skimboarding is. In a way it is an addiction. But not a bad addiction. An Addiction that encourages good positive habits, that brings us closer to people. It allows us to experience things together rather than separate. To adventure with your friends to new spots, or to local spots that are familiar, and show why we’re always striving for just one more. To see more from Skim Junky, check out their website and go watch The Addiction.
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Grom Corner: Lucas Fink In the past few years, it’s become obvious that Brazil is teeming with skim talent. And the Brazilian with perhaps the brightest skim future might just be Lucas Fink. At just 16, he’s won amateur events in the US, proven himself against top Brazilian pros, and charged some of the heaviest breaks in and outside his country. This little grom is about to spring into adulthood, and we made him sit down to tell us how he’s grown into the ripper he is today. Wrapping at Ipanema Photo: Andre Magarao | Rio, Brazil
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Grom corner
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Double Grabbing Photo: Andre Callado | Viña Del Mar, Chile
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Grom corner
Grom Corner: Lucas FInk Interview by David Haefele
Name: Lucas Fink Location: Rio de Janeiro, Brazil Age: 16 Years skimming: 10
So how are the waves there in Rio? How does it compare to other places around the world? Rio is a pretty weird place because for most of the year, it’s better for surfing at most of our spots. In California, when you have a big swell, it will be good for skimming. It will be big and breaking on the shore, and here it’s totally the opposite. It gets good when we don’t have waves. The sand can set up for skimming, and we get some slope. And the waves can break close to the shore. If we have a little more swell, it might be good for surfing and it’ll break like Huntington Beach. Ipanema beach, where we mostly skim, is not as heavy as Aliso. Some days it can be pretty
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heavy and breaking right on the shore, and then the next day, it can be super far out and breaking good for surfing. It can change overnight. But we have some pretty good days. Sometimes people think we have good waves every day, but no we don’t. We skim like Florida conditions too. How often do you get to travel through Brazil to look for waves and go skim? The trip that I’ve been doing more is definitely Sununga. It’s my favorite wave in the world, and I love being there. The atmosphere, the waves, everything. But I don’t go there very often. It’s hard because I don’t have a car and it’s a five-hour drive from where I live. So I have to go with my parents or get a bus. It’s not like I can wake up and hear that Sununga is good and just get there and go back
Photos: Andre magarao
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Grom corner
home. I have to plan a lot if I’m going there. For the rest of Brazil, we’ve been looking for spots that I really want to go to. We’ve seen some liner spots that are getting discovered on the coast. And we’re pretty sure we might have a lot of them, but no one has ever skimmed them. I wish that when I get out of school and I have nothing to do within the next year that I can get a car and just go travel along the coast. We definitely have some pretty good stuff along the coast that has not been discovered yet.
“It’s not like I can wake up and hear that Sununga is good and just get there and go back home.” PULSE SKIMBOARDING 53
Frontside Game on Lock Photo: Andre Callado | Viña Del Mar, Chile
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Grom corner Well I know there’s a good amount of crime in Rio. Has that ever affected you personally in any way? Yeah, it’s pretty different here than in California. We have a lot of crime here. It’s kind of a violent city. I would say mostly because of the social segregation. We have super rich neighborhoods and then in a minute walk we have ghettos that are huge.
“But I don’t want to scare gringos from coming here, it’s worth a trip.” People are always together, the people from the rich neighborhoods and the ghettos. The beach is the most common spot for crime. The beaches here in Brazil get so busy...you can’t even skim on the weekends. It’s impossible. I’ve gotten robbed, but it’s a consequence of living in Rio. I don’t really like it, but there’s a lot of good things about Rio. I try to ignore that part about Rio. Here in Brazil sometimes you’re walking in the street, this has already happened to me, and some random guy will come up to you and say “give me everything you have... money, cellphone…” and in California, I can’t even imagine that happening. In Rio if you leave a backpack somewhere and you leave it for two minutes, it won’t be there. You can be sure. But I don’t want to scare gringos from coming here, it’s worth a trip. Speaking about California, tell me more about your trips out there. You want to know something funny? When I was maybe 4 or 5 [years old], I wasn’t even skimming yet, I went to Laguna. I went to California, and everyone who goes to California goes to Los Angeles,
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San Francisco, or bigger cities, and none of my friends who go to California go to Laguna or Newport. They’re just smaller cities I guess, but I went to Laguna when I was five, so maybe it was destiny. California is definitely one of my favorite places in the world. I’ve been there so many times, I don’t even know how many times I’ve been anymore. It’s definitely one of my favorite trips in the world. The atmosphere is the best. The lifestyle is awesome. Waves are perfect. No crime. [Laughs] I’m planning on living there. I’m finishing school this year in December, and I’m already taking the tests to go to school out there. I’m really planning on doing college in California and living there.
Photos: Andre magarao
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Grom corner
“ ...I went to Laguna when I was five, so maybe it was destiny. ” I know you just recently started competing pro. Did you feel like you were ready for it? I was scared of turning pro. I thought I wasn’t going to do well. At the Zap Am Champs I won my division in 2012 and 2013 in junior mens, and I also got third in semi-pro last year. And I felt like it was time. I started competing Pro on the Brazilian tour, and I got first at both stops, and I felt like “Yeah I guess I’m ready for the UST.” But I’m still kind of scared of the UST.
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In the spot Photo: Andre Magarao | Rio, Brazil
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Grom Corner So about your win at Sununga this year, how was that final against Renato [Lima]? It was my first pro contest in Brazil. In the first round, I lost, but it wasn’t an elimination round, so I went to round two. And all of a sudden I was in the semi-finals and I realized I was already in the top four against those locals in Sununga. I was thinking “Oh my god I’m in the top four, and it’s my first pro event.” And then I made my semi-final, so I was in the final with the Sununga legend. That was like a dream from when I was younger. And then I went into the heat without any pressure. I was like “second place would be awesome.” I was already happy with second place. And I just kept skimming. It was a super good heat. I was skimming and all the locals were yelling “Yeah Renato. You already got it. You’re going to win.” By the end of the heat when I stopped to think about the heat I thought, “Oh my god, I guess I could make it.” Everyone was saying “You might make it.” And at the awards, when they said I was first...I will never forget that moment. It was awesome. Definitely one of my craziest heats ever. Sponsors? Exile, Let’s Party, CMNTY, Janga, and Palaphita Kitch It’s gonna be fun watching you in California soon and on the entire UST.
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Leading Lady: Ellen Wood Skim camp counselor and newly turned pro Ellen Wood has been spending every summer since she can remember along the shores of Dewey Beach, Delaware. Originally from Silver Spring, Maryland, Ellen currently lives in Columbia, South Carolina where she is going to school. Last summer, her visit to California turned quite a few heads, and her involvement in the Alley Oop Skim Camps makes her exactly the type of skimboarder we like to showcase. So here she is. The monkey crawler, the DJ, the camp counselor, the snowboarder, and the skimboarder, Ellen Wood. Backside Spray Photo: Joan Wood | Dewey Beach, De
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Leading Lady
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All Lined up Photo: Patricia Broda | Lewes, DE
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Leading Lady
Leading Lady: Ellen Wood Interview by David Haefele
Name: Ellen Wood Hometown: Silver Spring, MD Age: 20 Years Skimming: 10
What’s up with you spending your summers in Delaware. Have you always been doing that, or is it just recent? Yeah I’ve actually always done that. My mom’s first house was a beach house. It was actually the only house in the neighborhood. The rest of it was just land at the time. Ever since I can remember I would spend my summers there. How did you start skimboarding? In Delaware we always went to this state park beach everyday, so I had to figure out something to do while I was there. So I started surfing. Then one day I was out in the water by myself, and I got sucked out by a major rip tide. There were no lifeguards there, so I was waving to my family to say “help me.” And they thought I was waving to them, not
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asking for help because I was drowning. [Laughs] Luckily, my dad was out there in his canoe. So he canoed over to me and picked me up. But after that I was kind of scared of the water. So I stopped surfing for a little bit and I picked up skimboarding. As time progress I stopped being scared of the water. So I still surf, and I got better at skimboarding because of that. My neighbors actually introduced me to Jason Wilson and Corey Mahoney, who own Alley-Oop. So I started doing camps for them, and eventually they sponsored me. I started working as a counselor there. That’s pretty much how it went.
“...they thought I was waving to them, not asking for help because I was drowning.”
Photos: Patricia Broda
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Leading Lady
During your teenage years you said you didn’t like going to Delaware. Why was that? Probably around middle school and early high school, I was kind of mad that my mom would make me spend my summers there. I had to find a new friend group in Delaware, and I eventually did and it became a fun thing. But before that all my friends were at home during the summer and I would always miss out on parties or drama or whatever else was going on with my highschool friends. I was kind of mad that I was always away from that. Once I started working at Alley Oop, I made friends, and just being in Delaware I’d hang out with neighborhood friends. And that didn’t become a problem anymore.
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Photo: Patricia Broda
Photo: Jason Wilson
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Photo: wendy caputo
Leading Lady
“there was a Bar and live music just a few feet from where we were skimming. ” Tell me more about those Alley Oop skim camps you help run. Jason Wilson started them I think 15 years ago now. They have advanced weeks, where they have kids who are either sponsored by Alley Oop or who do contests like the SkimUSA circuit. On those days, we usually will travel to different spots that are good that day. Besides the advanced week we have normal full-week camps every week in the summer at the South Side. All day, eight hours for five days a week. And then on top of that we have mini camps which is right outside on New Orleans Street right next to the shop. That’s for younger kids. We usually have half days for three days a week, and we usually have 5 to 20 kids coming to that too. I know you weren’t pro yet at the Victoria Contest this summer. Have you started competing pro yet? Well actually I have. The reason I hadn’t gone pro until the end of the summer was because I actually made the SkimUSA team for 2014. I just wanted to stay amateur becasue I had a spot on the team. They took us to the caribbean this summer. So I was kind of waiting to do that because I knew if I went pro I would lose my spot on the team. I went there with Casey Richter and Lucas and Sam McCoy. I went with them and Dave Scott and Casey’s Dad. That trip was especially fun because there was a Bar and live music just a few feet from where we were skimming. After that I did go pro, and I ended up placing second in the Vilano Contest.
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What are you going to school for and what do you hope to do once you graduate? I’m a business major, and at my school they make it easy to double major and triple major even, so I’m a triple major. Insurance and Risk Management is my first major, and it gets me my in-state tuition. My two other majors, which are my main point of interest, are Marketing and GSCOM, and that’s just an acronym for Global Supply Chain and Management. And then I have a minor in Psychology. They all tie together. I feel like getting job these days is really competitive, so I’m just making sure I
Photo: Brian carroll
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Leading Lady
Photo: Patricia Broda Photo: jacob gill
can secure something. As far as what I want to go into, I’m not sure. I’m actually trying to work in New York city this summer. I don’t know if you’ve ever heard of Vice. They do series on YouTube, and they just signed a contract with HBO. They’ve been doing bigger documentaries lately. What they do is interesting. They don’t just do normal boring documentaries. Basically, I’m trying to get an internship with them this summer, more on the business-oriented side of it or even a writing or creative internship because I do a lot of graphic design work and video production.
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Photo: patricia broda
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Leading Lady So you mentioned something about DJing. What kind of music are you into? What got me interested into DJing in the first place is Flosstradamus, but at the same time I was listening to a lot of underground hip hop. I don’t know if you’ve ever heard of Flatbush Zombies. There’s three guys in this group, and they’re all from Brooklyn. One of the guy’s names is Erick Arc Elliott, and he does a lot of producing for this group as well as producing in the Brooklyn area in general. Just
“I wish I could mix reggae with underground hip hop with trap music all together.” listening to his music, I was like “this is something cool that I could get into.” On top of that, whenever I would listen to new mixes I was thinking “I wish I could mix reggae with underground hip hop with trap music all together.” Basically what I want to do is mix all my favorite genres together and make it sound good and make it flow. Sponsors? Alley Oop and SoDel Skim. Good luck this next contest season, and we can’t wait to see all those rippers you’re training make it big.
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George Bryan on Hawaii Hawaiian Legends Are Not To Be Ignored The way I see it, skimboarding started in the Hawaiian Islands. Hawaii is also a place where I can actually believe the legends of gods and the mysterious power of nature. On parts of the island where the mountains meet the sea, you catch yourself standing in awe, thinking a little deeper than a normal skim session. You can’t get rid of what I call the tropical perma-grin. As Chris Henderson says, “What, smile stuck?!” You stand on a beach staring into the ocean and a turtle surfaces to take a breath of the fresh air on it’s way back to the isolated beach it was born on many years ago. You ponder how lucky you are to catch another session of epic shorebreak, and on your way back to wherever you are staying, you look out the window and the site of McDonalds seems more like a practical joke than a place to eat... Bill Bryan, Permagrinning Photo: Jeff Davis
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George Bryan, Classic Hack Photo: Daniel Pardini
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Travel
Hawaii Words by George Bryan
“You can’t get rid of what I call the tropical perma-grin” ...Keep An Eye Out For The Menehune In Hawaii, menehune means something like, little people with secret power. The word menehune then inspired, menehune mana, or, the little people with Hawaiian ancient magic spirit. I’m not sure if this is the best analogy, but, kids rule in Hawaii. Like they should. To skimboarders, this means, when there are kids in the shorebreak, just go somewhere else. The wrong choice here is the fastest way than to change your trip from one to remember to one to forget. During my last trip there, I was told a story about a team of traveling California skimmers that were on a “business trip”, trying to get video clips, that ended with a nice slap as a reminder to stay away from the Keiki’s.
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The only other way to approach kids if they show up when you are already in the water is to let them try your board. They have probably never tried sliding on anything beside a boogie board in their lives. This is because there is a shortage of skimboards in Hawaii. And, without guys like Brent Edwards from Maui Skimmers making boards and keeping the crew stoked, much of Hawaii’s skimboarding history would never have been written.
“...the amount of skimboarders on the island is very low...”
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Photo: Matthew Marbach Because, despite having some of the best skimboarders in the world having come out of Hawaii; Kanai Sharsh, Bennett DeBeer, Kirk Snyder, Iopa Maunakea, Kyle Olson, and Keith Fowler; the amount of skimboarders on the island is very low compared to the number of beaches. The skimboarders there actually enjoy each other’s company compared to the overcrowded confrontations that seem to be increasing in my hometown of Laguna Beach. Most of the time, if you want to catch some waves with another skimboarder, you have to arrange for a time and place before hand. The younger skimboarders would even approach me about getting more professional riders to come over and help push the level of riding and shed some light on the up and coming riders.
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The formula to create a solid skim community is really no secret, of course. Places like Laguna and Dewey Beach are the perfect model. First, get people to fall in love with sand sliding at an early age when they are young enough to get through the learning curve spills. Second, get the kids together to create the friendships and positive reinforcement that sport is truly about. Local skimboarders in Hawaii have actually enjoyed one of the most well run amatuer skimboard contest circuits around. The Hawaiian Amatuer Skimboard League (HASL) can be credited with grooming skimboarders like David Sterman and Keiao Bucasas into some of the strongest competitors on the slopes. But participation in the younger age divisions, often called the mini’s or menehune’s, was something that was almost totally missing.
Photo: Matthew Marbach
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Photo: Jeff Davis Put Two Naupaka Flowers Together The naupaka flower is one of the most common flowers found along the beaches in Hawaii. The flowers appear to be torn in half, which, according to legend, was done by a beautiful princess named Naupaka to give half to her lover whom she was forbidden to marry. My thought here is, create a two headed monster, i.e. two pieces of the flower. 2016 might be a good target date for this to happen, but there could be 2 contests in Hawaii during the summer; one event an official United Skim Tour event. Because both Sandy Beach on Oahu and Makena Beach on Maui are traditionally summertime spots, this
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could fit in perfectly into the skim season. In all honesty, I have not looked into permits and the logistics of the events but we could lean strongly on the past experience of the HASL crew. These events could create a big boost to the skimanomics in the Hawaiian Islands, and create a growing skimboarding community by letting the
“These events could create a big boost to the skimanomics in the Hawaiian Islands...” Photo: George Bryan
Photo: Matthew Marbach
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Photo: Jeff Davis local kids compete for free. US skimboarders would be able to enjoy the islands with some kind of structured travel to make the trip more safe and affordable. With tickets to Hawaii going for less than four hundred dollars, Hawaii no longer takes an extravagant amount of money to visit. And with skimboarders like Brian Pacheco, Jesse Solomon and Sean McClenahan riding on their home turf, local crowds will have quality skimboarders to stand behind (No Ka ‘Oi). Photo: Matthew Marbach
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George Bryan, Hucking one Photo: Matthew marbach
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Travel Don’t Pluck The Red Lehua Blossom The Ohia tree is the first plant to grow on new lava flows, but when someone picks its red Lehua Blossom, it is said that the classic sunny Hawaiian weather will turn to rain. This is often the case when you take untouched beauty and try get something out of it for yourself. Hawaiian history is filled with countless tragedies of modernization and pillaging. As of now, Hawaii is a destination for a only a handful of skimboarders that have had to learn how to make their way around the group of islands in a manner where respect and waves are earned through street smarts and experience. There is rarely animosity toward skimboarding in general because bad experiences with locals have been few and far between. The explosion of skimboarding on Hawaii could in fact take away this solitude that could never be replaced. But, as in anything in life, this is not an either-or juxtaposition. Yes, skimboarding in Hawaii can grow, and probably will, but nowhere in the world is more defined by mana than Hawaii. If you plan to go there, know your role, stay in your lane, and land the biggest air of your life. Let’s make this happen! Aloha. Authors note: After this article was written I pursued what it would take to get an official UST event in Hawaii. And, after speaking with some of the boys on Maui, a committee has been formed and a tentative date has been made in Spring to hold a skim contest. The success of this event will hopefully gain the attention of UST and set up Hawaii for a future event. Please address our friends at Skim Hawaii with any comments, concerns, and questions.
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Interview
Pro interview: Morgan Just Morgan won the Victoria Championships back in 2010, and he has finished the last seven UST contest seasons ranked 6th place or higher. In a sport where many pros don’t compete past 25 years old, that kind of longevity is to be admired. We were curious about what keeps Morgan so progressive and creative even after spending over a decade living life as a pro skimboarder, so we caught up with him last month and had him answer. Progressing at 10th Street Photo: Matt O’brien | Laguna, CA
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Standard connection Photo: Matt O’Brien | Laguna, CA
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Interview
Pro interview: Morgan Just Interview by David Haefele
Name: Morgan Just Location: Laguna Beach, CA Age: 29 Years Skimming: 19
“...if you’re not trying something new, you’re not pushing yourself enough.“ You’ve always been pretty creative when it comes to your trick selection. Do you set out to learn new tricks regularly, or do you just get bored and try something new? I kind of always thought that you’re not really that great of a skimboarder unless you have a pretty good selection of tricks. The way I see it, if you’re not trying something new, you’re not pushing yourself enough. On one side, I do push myself, but on the other side, it kind of comes naturally. If I’m doing the same thing too much, I just really get bored, so I’ll try something new.
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On that same topic, did you have any tricks that you tried before seeing anyone else try it first? What tricks felt especially creative for you? That’s a tough question. I’d say the weirdest trick I’ve been trying is the finger flip, but then again I got that from my buddy from WaveHouse who does them there. I’d say probably the varial kickflip. I was working on a kickflip and I wanted to get more pop. Going straight wasn’t getting me enough pop, so I started adding the shuvit into the mix. When you do a shuvit, it pops it more. I feel like that was more of a breakthrough moment. You could pop it and make the trick a lot cleaner and easier. I think around that same time other guys were landing it too. I don’t have any names off hand. Honestly, I can’t say that I’m super creative. I usually see someone do a trick, or I see a skater do a trick, because most of the tricks have been done already.
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Photos: Matt O’Brien I know you grew up skimming frontside siders in Laguna. In your trips to Sununga, what was it like riding a legit sider the other way. Yeah, I’ve been to Sununga I think 4 or 5 times now. That experience was kind of eye opening. To be honest it was a lot easier than I was expecting, probably due to the size of the sider. Also, pulling into the tube, making it out of the barrel, I found it more difficult on certain days and easier on certain days. To me it’s this whole excitement from something new. It’s like learning a new trick, but it’s a new wave. I like the idea of riding new waves that haven’t been overly exposed by skimboard media.
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Photo: Corinne Conklin
Photo: sergio Dos Santos | Angola
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Photo: Taylor Osborn
Interview I want to ask you about Angola. I know you went there this past year. What was that experience like, and how was that wave? Umm...Angola…gee...that wave…that wave just doesn’t end. It’s kind of sad that it doesn’t have enough filmers to document it. That wave just goes forever. It’s kind of crazy because it’s not very hard to get onto, and that whole coastline is part of the Skeleton Coastline. So it’s one point break after another after another. It’s all frontside too [for goofy footers]. So you can go around the corner and find a whole new wave, go around the next point, and you’re going to find another one. Walk a couple miles down from there, and you’re going to find another one. They all break somewhat differently. We actually found a nice one that barreled a little better than the one they held the contest at. We got a lot of exposure with a lot of top pros there from Brazil, Portugal, South Africa. I’d say it was the most international contest I’ve ever been to. I think it’d be great to see the UST there some day because the quality of wave there is just amazing. It’s a four foot liner, and the average ride is 20-40 seconds long. Thanks to Tchinya, and all her friends for making that trip possible.
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Tell me a little about the Wavehouse. It seems like you’re down there a lot. How often do you get to go down there? Just last week I hung out with my friend who’s the world champion there, and I think he’s motivated me to get back into it a bit more. As a trainer for skimboarding, it’s the best thing. It’s like riding 30 miles an hour on a skimboard on a ten foot wave without any breaks. Whatever you want to try on a skimboard, you can pretty much try there. I learned finger flips there, which I’ve applied to skimboarding. It helped me hone in on my varial flips, my kickflips, three shuvs, airs off the top, and also my switch stance. It’s been a really good training facility.
“It’s like riding 30 miles an hour on a skimboard on a ten foot wave without any breaks. “
Photo: Sean Bailey
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Interview
Photo: Taylor Osborn I know your dad used to film you quite a bit. Does he still follow you around and film you at all? Uh no. Sadly. My dad moved up to Northern California about 6 years ago, and then he started to go blind. They found out he had a brain tumor the size of a grapefruit that took out his pituitary gland. It also cut off the circulation to his optic nerve, so it was causing him to go blind. They found it about six months too late to save most of his vision. He has I think 10% of his vision out of one of his eyes, but other than that, he’s pretty much blind. But he’s been doing alright. They took out his gallbladder when they found out he had cancer in that. But he’s a fighter. He’s kicking pretty good. I think he’s feeling the best he’s felt in the past 7 years. So he’s doing good.
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Critical Air Photo: Joe Bailey | Laguna CA
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Interview Do you get to go to a lot of the Saturday Sessions that Victoria has every weekend? I don’t get to go to as many as I’d like. Every Friday night I get a text that says “HC&D. [Hot Coffee and Donuts] Show up at 10am.” I end up seeing a lot of the pictures and stuff, and these guys are killing it. The Vic team right now is bigger than it’s been since I can remember, and the level of talent is just incredible. Most people probably don’t recognize these names like Jack [Howie], Ryan Ward, Sean Malek, Max Bourne, but that’s because they’re younger. They just haven’t had time to do well in the pro ranks yet. I think Vic has got a really strong team, and I’m stoked that they do the Saturday Sessions to get some media out there for people. It’s a really good thing. Sponsors? Thanks to Victoria Skimboards, Skim City, Let’s Party, Catch Surf, and Wavehouse. And God. Throw that in there too. Thanks again for the interview. We can’t wait to see what tricks you learn next.
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Exposure We receive hundreds of photo submissions each issue from dozens of photographers and many countries. Here are 40 of our favorites. Paulo Prietto, Handragging at Aliso Photo: Matt O’Brien | Laguna, CA
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Dave Scott, Backside Rotation Photo: Jason Wilson | Pompano Beach, FL
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Will Tracy, Laying into one Photo: Anvesh Gandikota | Seabright, NJ
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Michael Wied, Backlit beauty Photo: Drew Khorasani | San Diego, CA
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Perry Pruitt, Driving Through Photo: Tyler Brooks | Laguna, CA
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Sean McClenahan, Backside Paddle in Photo: Jeff Davis | Maui, HI
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Trevor Stanland, Behind the curtain Photo: Taylor Osborn | Laguna, CA
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Dave Scott, Small Wave – Big Air Photo: Jason Wilson | Pompano Beach, FL
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Sam Stinnett, This is insane Photo: Taylor Osborn | Laguna, CA
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MARÍA CONDE ‘XOXE, Going big Photo: Daniel Caparros | Barcelona, Spain
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Lucas Gomes, Massive Chilean Sider Photo: Felipe Negro | Viña del Mar, Chile
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Ernesto Molina, Cruising in it Photo: Diana Rios | Mijas, Spain
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George Bryan, Golden Hour Hack Photo: Fabiana Badie | Laguna, CA
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Zack Lebon, Backdooring this section Photo: Matt O’Brien | Laguna, CA
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Johnny Salta, A Saturday Session Photo: Fabiana Badie | Laguna, CA
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Blake Zimmerman, Stunning light Photo: Matt McDonald | Tacoma, WA
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Aubrey Ballard, Tucking into one Photo: Tori Mogford | Vilano Beach, FL
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Travis Williams, Looking Blair-esque Photo: Brendon McGeown | Seal Beach, CA
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JUANLU GONZÁLEZ, Barrel View Photo: Segio Gil ‘Shein’
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Bill Baxter, Winched Air Photo: Kevin Newcomer | Dewey Beach, DE
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Timmy Gamboa, Under the lip Photo: Brendan McGeown | Laguna, CA
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Austin Keen, Two feet – one leg Photo: Matt O’Brien | Laguna, CA
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Martí Avilès, Bringing it around Photo: Pedro Sequera | Barcelona, Spain
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Tim Fulton, Frontside 360 – Stomped Photo: Matt O’Brien | Laguna, CA
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Naji Taha, Cracking this lip Photo: Dwight Mudry | Laguna, CA
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Perry Pruitt, Troughy Alley-Oop Photo: Brendan McGeown | Laguna, CA
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Nick Dramassi, FS Turn from above Photo: Chris Beletsis | San Diego, CA
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Johnny Atoe, Foamy Vortex Photo: Les Morales | Malibu, CA
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Golden Gate Barrel Photo: Matt O’Brien | San Francisco, CA
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Jack Howie, Evening at Aliso Photo: Tyler Brooks | Laguna, CA
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Blair Conklin, not a paddle-in Photo: Corinne Conklin | Laguna, CA
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Teddy Vlasis, Crystal Blue Turn Photo: Tyler Brooks | Laguna, CA
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Brandon Sears, Squared up Photo: Tyler Brooks | Laguna, CA
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Jason Wilson, Choosing the Right Photo: Kevin Newcomer | Dewey Beach, DE
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Paddy Mack, Framegrab from ‘Shorebreak’ Photo: Tony Liuzzi | Cabo, Mexico
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David Sterman, Aliso Step Off Photo: Tyler Brooks | Laguna, CA
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Max Bourne, Sunset sider wrap Photo: Tyler Brooks | Laguna, CA
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Lucas Gomes, Picture Perfect Air Photo: Fabrício Bruno | Rio, Brazil
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#skimpulsive
You tag your photos on Instagram and we pick our favorite. Four simple rules. One stoked winner. • • • •
Tag your pics with @pulseskimboarding and #skimpulsive Amateurs only! (Pros get enough attention) Square photo: 1:1 image ratio No watermarks
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#skimpulsive
@prestonburgess123
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Fly-away at the wall Photo: Chris Beletsis | San Diego, CA
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