CARMARTHENSHIRE
larkhill tipis In the stillness of the Teifi Valley in rural
it’s lit, to become a spectacular labyrinth
Carmarthenshire, not far from the bubbling
of fire. A wild-flower meadow occupies the
Bargoed stream, can be found the most
unforested areas of the 20 acres and in
perfect countryside retreat. And even though
addition there are a number of quiet corners
it’s an entirely artificial invention, from
and wooded glades hidden around the
the creative brains and dextrous hands of
place – ideal for those who like meditation,
Tony and Fran Wintle, it feels like the most
contemplation and relaxation.
natural place on earth. In essence, Fran and Tony have succeeded Larkhill used to be just a simple family
in restoring a very small slice of ancient
home surrounded by open farmland. But
Welsh woodland to its former magical and
Fran and Tony had a plan – to turn this place
mystical glory. This is a fantastic example of
into a peaceful woodland hideaway, far from
a low-impact, sustainable tourism initiative,
modern life’s stresses and strains. They
as well as being a great way to make use of
began planting trees – oak, beech, ash and
redundant farmland.
field maple; in total, 60 different species now cover the land here in what is a remarkable
The care and attention that has been
transformation. At intervals, throughout the
lavished on this place is obvious at every
fledgling woodland, they levelled off terraces
turn. Wooden benches have been hand-
and began constructing tipis and yurts in
crafted and positioned for maximum
the small clearings, in order to share this
view-enjoyment. Paving stones have been
quiet corner with guests.
individually designed, with patterns inspired by nature and the elements. Even
Tony designed and built a hexagonal
the showers, and the electricity at Larkhill,
log cabin, in keeping with the wood-rich
are powered by solar panels and wind
environment, to serve as a kitchen and
turbines, in respect for the environment.
dining room. Through the centre of the land they built an avenue of laburnum trees,
It’s an inspiration to see renewable energy
which now flowers gloriously every spring
being used so effectively; several visitors
in a riot of yellow. At the end of this dazzling
have even gone on to invest in solar and
walkway, a curious seven-ringed maze is
wind power for their own homes after seeing
scorched into the earth and, on occasion,
them in action here.
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CARMARTHENSHIRE larkhill tipis
There are three tipis at Larkhill, each
they are warmer and more weatherproof.
equipped with up to six comfortable single
A wood stove and a two-ring gas stove are
beds, a box full of warm blankets and a
provided in the yurts for heat and cooking.
central tipi fire hole. The dynamics of the tipi dictate that the smoke should be sucked
There are plenty of attractions around
out through the hole at the top. But the
here – including a local taste trail, kayaking
smoke does have a habit of not doing what
along the Teifi river and the National
it should and it can get a bit smoky, so tipis
Botanic Garden, just outside Carmarthen
are probably not best suited for families
(Caerfyrddin) – but rushing around isn’t
with small kids. The floor is covered in rugs
really the point of a holiday at Larkhill. It’s
and sheepskins and the foam and futon beds
about chilling out in a wonderfully peaceful
offer a reasonable level of comfort.
valley, sitting around a campfire, enjoying the countryside vistas and listening to the
The two yurts are similarly furnished,
larks of Larkhill calling softly. Sheer bliss.
although, not being open to the elements,
With extra shhh.
THE UPSIDE A peaceful woodland valley; possibly the best tipi setting in Wales. THE DOWNSIDE Trying to work out how not to fill the tipi with smoke. THE DAMAGE Tipis and yurts from £60 a night, going up to £520 for a week during the summer holidays. No dogs. THE FACILITIES Beds, cushions, pillows and extra blankets are included; bring your own sleeping bag, food, towel and torch. Pots, pans, crockery, cutlery and a cool box are all supplied; you can cook on an open fire, the BBQ or on gas hobs. There’s also a cooker in the log cabin, along with a sink for washing up and low-voltage power for charging things. Two hot showers are available
in another log cabin; you can choose between a surprisingly posh, neutral-smelling compost toilet or a conventional flusher. There’s also a small children’s play area. NEAREST DECENT PUB Unfortunately, no outstanding places nearby. For food, the Afon Duad Inn (01267 281357; www.afonduad.com), 3 miles away in Cwmduad, offers a good vegetarian menu and a selection of sturdy Welsh meat dishes. Further afield is the bright-yellow John-y-Gwas tavern (01559 370469), which offers good grub in a cosy bar. IF IT RAINS Kids can do their own weaving at the free National Woollen Museum (01559 370929; www.museumwales.ac.uk). They also
have leaflets at Larkhill about the local taste trail (www.walesthetruetaste.co.uk), the splendid National Botanic Garden (01558 668768; www.gardenofwales.org.uk) and local kayaking. GETTING THERE Directions supplied on booking. PUBLIC TRANSPORT Tony will pick up from Carmarthen railway or bus station, 14 miles away. OPEN The 3 tipis are open from Apr–Oct and the 2 yurts all year. IF IT’S FULL Another Cool Camping site, fforest (p53), provides a selection of tipis, bell tents and domes in an equally magical setting, about a 40-minute drive away.
Larkhill Tipis, Cwmduad, Carmarthenshire SA33 6AT t
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01559 371581
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www.larkhilltipis.co.uk
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Big Pit: National Coal Museum Possibly the most fun museum ever: there’s nothing like Big Pit. An underground tour inside a real mine – led by a real, live former miner – this is about as interactive as you can get. Armed with a helmet, headlamp, ‘self rescuer’ and bulky battery pack, you’re lowered 90 metres down the mineshaft for a 50-minute tour you’re unlikely to forget and that the kids will love. The miner tour guides are equal parts informative, chatty and hilarious as they lead you along the coal face and tram paths, past the pit-pony stables, and show you the old tools and machinery that were used to work the mine. Blaenafon, Torfaen NP4 9XP 01495 790311 www.museumwales.ac.uk/en/bigpit/
National Roman Legion Museum You don’t need to go as far as Italy for a glimpse into how the Romans lived – just over the border, in Caerleon, are the ruins of a fortress built back in AD 75 to guard the Empire’s furthest-flung outpost: Wales. The National Roman Legion Museum provides a ‘get-stuck-in’ experience for visitors. Kids can try on replica armour and discover how Caesar’s centurions lived. Interactive events include ‘Romans in Residence’, during which the gardens come alive with a Roman camp. Visitors can join in a proper Roman feast and gamble with the soldiers. High Street, Caerleon, Newport NP18 1AE 01633 423134 www.museumwales.ac.uk/en/caerleon/
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National Slate Museum Dinorwig Quarry, which closed in 1969, offers an insight into the Welsh slate industry and the lives of the people that fed it. This quarryturned-museum has a suitably sombre setting. Talks and demonstrations, including live slate-splitting, and restored buildings and machinery help bring the quarry to life. Visitors can roam around the old workshops, real equipment and machinery used to keep this vast quarry churning. There’s even a working steam engine that chugs through the site. Wandering inside buildings such as the tiny terraced houses of ironworkers, with interiors restored to three different periods, gives a real sense of the often dark history of this industry and its workers. Llanberis, Gwynedd LL55 4TY 01286 870630 www.museumwales.ac.uk/en/slate/
St Fagans National History Museum This ‘living’ open-air museum is a winner with the kids. Set in the grounds of a 16thcentury manor house, St Fagans has over 40 original buildings, including a chapel, school, farm and shops that date back hundreds of years and capture the lives of the people that lived and worked in them. Explore six terraced ironworkers’ houses and gardens, each restored to look as it would have in a particular year, the first one set in 1805 and the last in 1985. Live demonstrations from traditional blacksmiths, potters and millers give a fascinating insight into days gone by. Cardiff CF5 6XB 02920 573500 www.museumwales.ac.uk/en/stfagans/
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SNOWDONIA
llyn gwynant Something about Llyn Gwynant needs to be
so handy for just messing about in, an
explained right from the start – it can be a
active family holiday takes on a whole new
bit of a madhouse at times. Well, perhaps
meaning here, offering an opportunity for
madhouse isn’t quite the right word –
everyone to get completely cream-crackered
though neither is it that wrong either. This
by the end of the day.
large campsite can accommodate one hell of a lot of campers and quite often that is
The variety and scale of the attractions
exactly how many can be found here. But it’s
on offer at Llyn Gwynant during school
only really a madhouse because everybody
holidays does mean that a large number
seems to be busy doing something, or
of young folk of all ages are actively
about to do something, or planning to do
encouraged to come here – and you’d think
something, or recovering from just having
that this would create a noise problem
done something – such is the variety of
occasionally wouldn’t you? Well, possibly,
activities either in progress on the site, next
but with careful proactive management, in
to it, leaving from it, or just coming back
all the years the site has been operating the
from it. ‘Frenetic’ may be more accurate.
incidence of noisy or unruly behaviour has
‘Hyperactive’ may be going just a little too
been almost non-existent.
far, but by now the message must be sinking in: if you want outdoor action combined
All those who love campfires can indulge
with your camping then Llyn Gwynant is
themselves at Llyn Gwynant with 250 fire
probably the place to come to.
grates provided free for campers’ use. All that they ask is that only wood purchased
The list of activities taking place on, near,
onsite is used, and that you don’t take it
or from, the site on the late May Bank
home with you, of course.
Holiday weekend, when the Cool Camping crew pitched up, reads as follows: canoeing,
While Llyn Gwynant is probably the top
sailing, rafting, walking, rock-climbing,
campsite in Britain for an activity-based
abseiling, boateering, gorge-scrambling and
family holiday, everything changes when
the presently trendy activity of coasteering.
the little darlings are installed back in their
Not to mention just sitting there, wide-eyed,
institutions. This is when Llyn Gwynant
watching it all happen. With all this lot
truly becomes itself, and it’s then that this
going on and the waters of Llyn Gwynant
staggeringly scenic campsite transforms
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SNOWDONIA llyn gwynant
itself into one of the best places in Britain
and this campsite’s location makes them all
for the more reclusive camper: the kind
easily accessible. Indeed, if you really want
of camper who just wants to immerse
to stand out from the macho crowd, there is
themselves in the natural beauty right in the
even a railway which clutches and crawls its
heart of Snowdonia, or bring the tent for a
way to the top of Snowdon from Llanberis,
few days of peak-bagging in the surrounding
just over the hill. However, Cool Camping’s
mountains, or just lazily paddle about
man on the spot reckons walking up (and
untroubled in the crystal-clear waters of
especially down) is the less scary option.
Llyn Gwynant. So which Llyn Gwynant do you want to With Llyn Gwynant’s host of outdoor
camp at? The mad, frantic outdoor activity-
activities and all that scenery just begging
led campsite during the school holidays, or
to be enjoyed, it would be easy to forget that
that peaceful near-empty hideaway in the
Snowdonia has quite an array of tourist
mountains? It’s just a matter of timing.
attractions for whiling away wetter days,
THE UPSIDE Scenic location and a staggering array of outdoor activities on offer during the school holidays. Superb place to walk or canoe from. Huge site (441 pitches) with no booking in advance. Very carefully managed to avoid nuisance or noise. THE DOWNSIDE Not the place for some at peak periods. The ‘no advance bookings’ policy for prebooked holiday periods. Occasionally the midges can be a real pain here. THE DAMAGE Adults £8 per night high season, £6 low season; children (5–15 years) £4; dogs £1; firewood £4 per bag; refundable noise bond of £20 per person for non-family groups. THE FACILITIES Modern, well-maintained block with toilets, showers, and new laundry for 2010. NEAREST DECENT PUB The Pen-Y-Gwryd
Hotel (01286 870211; www.pyg.co.uk) is 2 miles away along an old Roman road, and is where the 1953 Everest team stayed while training, so is now the haunt of hill folk. Traditional atmosphere and excellent food. IF IT RAINS Bodnant Gardens (01492 650460; www.bodnantgarden.co.uk) near Conwy is especially stunning in late May or early June while Welsh Mountain Zoo (01492 532938; www. welshmountainzoo.org), near Colwyn Bay, is well worth a visit. Penrhyn Castle (01248 371337; www.nationaltrust.org.uk), Bangor, is decadence on a huge scale. Welsh Highland Railway (01766 51600; www.welshhighlandrailway.net) from Caernarfon to Portmadog. Conwy Castle (01492 592358; www.conwy.com), Conwy. Great place when taken with the old town walls. Caernarfon
Castle (01286 677617; www.caernarfon.com) is the archetypal ruin. Snowdon Mountain Railway (0844 4938120; www.snowdonrailway.co.uk), Llanberis. GETTING THERE Follow the A5 from Betws-yCoed to Capel Curig, turn left along the A4086 for 5 miles, to Pen-y-Gwryd, then take the A498 for 2½ miles and the site is on the right. PUBLIC TRANSPORT A regular bus service passes the site to Caernarfon and Beddgelert. OPEN Week before Easter–mid Nov. IF IT’S FULL One nearby site is Snowdonia Parc, or, nearer still, with good facilities, is Cae Du (not the Cae Du on p185) 4 miles away near Beddgelert (01766 890345; www.caeducampsite.co.uk).
Llyn Gwynant, Nantgwynant, Gwynedd LL55 4NW t
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www.gwynant.co.uk
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festival fun Camping and festivals go together like multicoloured wellies and glow sticks, so time your trip to Wales to coincide with one of its funky fiestas.
What’s a summer without a festival to get well and truly immersed in? Now a huge part of our Great British culture, festivals have been springing up here, there and everywhere, in all kinds of different shapes and sizes. They offer us the chance to kiss goodbye to the daily grind and let our hair down good and proper. Whether it’s the muddy great fun to be had at the big daddy of UK festivals, Glastonbury, or the tiny peaceful affairs of the boutique festivals; from kidcentric bashes to hedonistic benders; cultural dos to hippified-folk gatherings, the UK just loves its
festivals and there’s one out there to suit just about everyone and cater for just about every taste. Wales hosts its fair share of them – dotted about the country in some of the most spectacular settings known to festivals. So, whether you’re a foodie with a hunger for a whole festival dedicated to the digestible, a culture vulture keen on book fests, a party animal aching for an action-packed mêlée, a straightforward music-lover or just want to make the most of a weekend, without further ado, we’d like to introduce you to a few Welsh bashes that are really too good to be missed.
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CEREDIGION
under the thatch Camping can be a wildly romantic
The brightly painted wood accentuates the
experience. Picture the scene: two people
heroic craftsmanship, the bow-top roof
sheltering from the elements, cooking on a
curves impossibly – like a bubble ready to
simple fire, enjoying secluded countryside
burst – and the tiny half-and-half doors need
together. And thanks to Under the Thatch,
only a large-busted Romany mother leaning
this heady mixture has been elevated to
out to make them any more authentic.
another level entirely. The cosy interior is similarly themed. A Under the Thatch specialises in finding
sturdy wooden double bed is built across the
derelict or disused Welsh buildings of
back of the caravan, with just enough space
architectural significance, restoring them to
for a traditional pot-belly stove and some
their former glory and setting them up for
wooden cupboards in which to stash your
holiday lets. The idea is to get the buildings
stuff. A few steps from the caravan, a rustic
contributing to the rural economy, rather
cabin is on hand to provide extra storage, as
than to its decline. The name originates from
well as a shower, hand basin, toilet and a full
their first few projects, for which age-old
range of kitchen accoutrements including
cottages were restored and rethatched in
fridge and oven. There’s even a small sitting
traditional wheat straw, but they’ve since
area with a CD player, a bit like an extra
branched out to other, more unusual, kinds
chill-out room in case the caravan gets too
of accommodation, one of them being a
claustrophobic for comfort, or you feel like
beautiful Romany caravan.
taking a quick break from your other half.
The caravan – or ‘vardo’, to use its correct
Both the caravan and the cabin are located
name – was originally built in 1924 by highly
in their own small meadow, which follows
reputable wagon builders Wood Bros and,
the banks of the River Ceri, a clean, shallow
after years of heavy use and more years
river perfect for splashing around in of a
sitting in various hay barns doing nothing,
hot summer afternoon. You might even spot
was acquired by the gang at Under the
brown trout and otters darting around the
Thatch in 2004. They set about restoring
waters. From the steps of the caravan, all
it, staying true to the original Romany
that can be seen in any direction is green
design and colour scheme. The result is a
countryside, which adds to the secluded and
magnificently authentic holiday time capsule.
oh-so-romantic, experience.
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CEREDIGION under the thatch
It’s a short drive to the beaches of Tresaith,
estate to contribute to the local economy by
Llangrannog and Penbryn, and a slightly
becoming a self-sustaining organic farm.
longer one to the pretty Georgian harbour town of Aberaeron, with its colour-washed
Since the Romany caravan has become so
houses and old-time pubs; worth the trip if
popular, Under the Thatch have opened
you feel like a little outing. Three miles east
up more cosy ‘vardos’, a shepherd’s
of Aberaeron, the Llanerchaeron country
hut and, have even restored a couple of
estate, now National Trust, is an 18th-
circus-showman’s wagons, any of which
century Welsh gentry holding designed and
are irresistible for all those who fancy a
built by John Nash. The house has already
romantic break for two. After all, in a snug
been restored, but just like the mission of
wooden room only a few feet wide you won’t
the Under the Thatch team, the idea is for the
need an excuse to get cosy with each other.
THE UPSIDE Romany romance, for all soppy types, in a secluded location. THE DOWNSIDE It’s become very pricey. THE DAMAGE From £210–419 for 4 nights mid-week, £228–299 for a weekend (3 nights), and £323–551 for a week, depending on season. Dogs are welcome to accompany guests. THE FACILITIES The adjacent wooden shack is set up like a self-catering cabin, so has everything you could need, including a hot shower, fully equipped kitchen and a covered veranda. Fuel is provided for the caravan stove on arrival and an electric blanket is also available if nights get a bit
nippy. Bedding is also provided. NEAREST DECENT PUB The Harbourmaster Hotel (01545 570755; www.harbour-master.com) right on the harbour in Aberaeron is well worth the half-hour drive. It’s a foodie’s delight, with lobster, crab and fish fresh from Cardigan Bay, local lamb and venison and Welsh Black beef. Bread is baked on the premises. A bar menu is available as well as the restaurant’s (mains £12–22). A nearer alternative is the Ship Inn in Tresaith (see p66). IF IT RAINS Apart from exploring the Ceredigion coast or wandering around Aberaeron, the biggest attraction around here is the National Trust estate
at Llanerchaeron (01545 570200; www.nationaltrust.org.uk). GETTING THERE Directions given on booking. OPEN All year. IF IT’S FULL There are two more Under the Thatch Romany caravans: one in the Black Mountains; the other across the water in Ireland. Or for something completely different, camp out in their showman’s wagons, shepherd’s hut or one of their three retro woodland log cabins at Cenarth. Details available on the website.
Under the Thatch, Romany Caravan, Felin Brithdir, Rhydlewis, Llandysul, Ceredigion SA44 5SN e
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post@romanycaravan.co.uk
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www.underthethatch.co.uk
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