by Antonio Delliturri
DENIM AND INDIGO INDUSTRIES END SEMESTER PROJECT April - May’20 The project is an end semester college project of LEVEL 5. This is 4 week long project with an intense research and design process. The project aims to understand denim in its depth of the fabric to its very initial for in studied, which is cotton in its plant/fibre form. From here all processes and history involves in themaking of the fabric are studied.
The project includes the following tasks and deliverables: • Research & understanding cotton fibre from spinning to fabric, and also understanding different natural dyeing mathods, especially indigo dyeing and its process. • Brand study of different international denim brands. • Understanding of dry and wet processes • Designing an alter ego as a client • Designing a range for your alter ego.
COTTON
The fabric of our lives goodideasandtips.com
indigenous.com
•Understanding the journey of cotton in depth •In detail study of spinning cotton into a yarn •Inquiring natural dying processes & understanding indigo dye & dyeing
Aesthetic of the process of cotton plant to fabric
what is COTTON?
Cotton is a staple fiber, which means it is composed of different, varying lengths of fibers. Cotton is made from the natural fibers of cotton plants, which are from the genus Gossypium. Cotton is primarily composed of cellulose, an insoluble organic compound crucial to plant structure, and is a soft and fluffy material. The cotton plant needs lots of sun, a long period without frost, and a good amount of rain. The term “cotton� refers to the part of the cotton plant that grows in the boll—the encasing for the fluffy cotton fibers. Cotton is spun into yarn that is then woven to create a soft, durable fabric.
what is organic COTTON? Organic cotton is generally defined as cotton that is grown organically in subtropical countries such as India, Turkey, China, and parts of the USA from non-genetically modified plants, and without the use of any synthetic agricultural chemicals such as fertilizers or pesticides aside from the ones allowed by the certified organic labeling. Its production is supposed to promote and enhance biodiversity and biological cycles. In the United States, cotton plantations must also meet the requirements enforced by the National Organic Program (NOP) from the USDA in order to be considered organic. This institution determines the allowed practices for pest control, growing, fertilizing, and handling of organic crops.
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types of COTTOn different types of COTTOn fabrics
Gossypium hirsutum – upland cotton, native to Central America, Mexico, the Caribbean
Gossypium barbadense – known as extra-long staple cotton, native to tropical South America
Gossypium arboreum – tree cotton, native to India and Pakistan
Gossypium herbaceum – Levant cotton, native to southern Africa and the Arabian Peninsula
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JOURNEY O
Today, the world uses more cotton than any other fibre. Cotton comes from cultivated plants from the genus G a part of our daily lives from blue jeans to shoe strings.Clothing and household items are the largest uses, bu medicines and mattresses to se
JOURNEY OF CO
ClosedCOTTON Cotton Ball CLOSED BALL
Cotton BALL Ball COTTON
CardingOFCOTTON of Cotton CARDING
Cotton Spinning COTTON SPINNING
Cotton Spinning COTTON SPINNING
Collectin COLLECT
OF COTTON
Gossypium. They have been cultivated since ancient times for their fibres which are used as textiles. Cotton is ut industrial products account from many thousands of bales. Cotton has other, more surprising uses too from eed oil and even sausage skins.
TTON TO DENIM
ng Yarn TING YARN
Cotton Spinning into
COTTON SPINNING INTO Finer Yarn FINNER YARN
Indigo DYE Dye INDIGO
Thread Dyed in Indigo
THREAD DYED IN INDIGO
Denim
DENIM
Denim Garment
DENIM GARMENT
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oriyasan.com
saltspin.com
WHAT IS DENIM?
HISTORY OF DENIM
Denim is a strong cotton fabric made using a twill weave, which creates a subtle diagonal ribbing pattern. The cotton twill fabric is warp-facing, meaning that the weft threads go under two or more warp threads, and the warp yarns are more prominent on the right side. The diagonal ribbing is what makes denim fabric different from canvas or cotton duck, which is also a sturdy woven cotton fabric.
While historians still debate the birth place of denim, the fabric was classified as a twill weave fabric using one coloured thread and one white one. A widely held view is that it was ‘born’ in Nîmes, France. Serendipity played its part. During an unsuccessful replication attempt of a hard wearing cotton fabric known as ‘jeane’ (named after the city of Genoa, in Italy ) the fabric weavers of Nîmes realised they had developed a unique and sturdy fabric unlike anything else. Denim became popular in the United States during the Gold Rush in 1853, when Levi Strauss opened up a shop in San Francisco selling dry goods along with buttons, threads, and canvas for tents. He began making durable pants for miners with big pockets for storing gold. Jacob Davis was one of Strauss’s customers, and he added copper rivets to the seams and pocket corners, adding strength. David and Strauss patented the pants and Strauss began mass producing and marketing them, helping them evolve from something worn exclusively by working men to a mainstream fashion item.
hawthornintl.com/ Farmers wearing denim jeans in the 1930’s.
How Is Denim Made? After cotton fibers are harvested and spun into yarn, the yarns are dyed. The jeans are often indigo-dyed, making them the classic blue color for denim. Cotton denim is woven either on a shuttle loom or a projectile loom. A shuttle loom produces what’s called selvedge denim. The weft thread is passed through the warp threads in a back and forth motion, with no breaks in the weft. This creates a very smooth and sturdy selvedge edge. A projectile loom produces non-selvedge denim because there is a single weft thread for every row and not one thread woven throughout. This creates a more delicate edge that needs to be sewn to keep from fraying.
thedenimeye.com
6 Different Types of Denim Indigo denim: Indigo denim is achieved by dying the warp threads with indigo Sanforized
Raw
dye and white threads are used as the weft. As a result, most blue jeans are blue on the right side, as the fabric is warp facing, and the interior is lighter blue, almost white.
Stretch denim: Stretch denim weaves spandex or another elastic component
to give the fabric some added give and flexibility. Stretch denim is often used for skinny jeans.
Crushed denim: This type of denim has been treated so that it has a wrin-
kled look.
Acid-wash
Stretch
Sanforized denim: This is denim that is treated so that it doesn’t shrink in
the wash. This applies to almost all kinds of denim except for raw denim.
Acid-wash denim: This denim is treated with chlorine and a pumice stone
to create a marbled look.
Raw denim: Raw or dry denim is fabric is that is not washed after it is dyed. This creates a rougher and stiffer texture
Crushed
https://www.hawthornintl.com/history-of-denim
Indigo
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BRAND STUDY
Tony Tonnaer fou Naked & Famous was founded in 2008.When Their headquarWhen Tony Tonnaer founded Kings of Indigo nine years ago, his objectiveK ters is in Montreal, Quebec. in a sustainable wayh years ago, INVENTORhis objectiveBrandon was clear; to produce ing clothSvarc. mentally, without compT ing in a sustainable way both socially and environAfter growing tired of celebrity culturebelieved and its that impact on su neither mentally, without compromising on wanted quality.Naked He & Famous to be q the denim industry, Svarc to be sacrificed in orde believed that neither sustainabilitydenim nor quality had a purely product-based label that cutthen, out celebriSince what it mead An American denim brand, also known as Naked & Famous founded inendorsement 2008.in Their headquarto bewassacrificed order toand make beautiful ty advertising. Hegarments. hoped that evolved andthis become mo 7FAM. ters is in Montreal, Quebec. in Fall 2000has inpromises LA,California. further changp would to result inStarted an affordable, high-quality Since then, what it means be 'sustainable' INVENTORBrandon Svarc.approach Founded by Peter Koral, Michael Glasser, Jerome After growing tired of celebrity culture and its impact on product. and become more and the future q Dahan. the denim evolved industry, Svarc wanted Naked & Famous to beintricate, www.permaneyle.com
UNIQUE DENIM BRANDS
In 2003 ,Los Angeles-based premium denim
At one point in time, m unded Kings Indigo ninedenim brand, also KAPITAL is as a Premium brand which caters to people with AnofAmerican known At one point in time, most ofinthe world's duced the United S KAPITAL is a Premium brand which caters to people with e was clear;7FAM. to produce clothhigher purchasing power. Jerome dahan is the founder and designer duced in the United States. Asastime suffered masspass prod yhigher both socially and environThe brand has a good reputation because of its fine purchasing power. Humanity before launching this traditional brand he m w Started in Fall 2000 in LA,California. intensive suffered as mass production took priorit promising onFounded quality. qualityGlasser, fabrics, to craftsmanship, founder bold The brand has a He good reputation because of itsadherence fine of LUCKY JEANS brand (1990) a by Peter Koral, Michael Jerome entered into the denim intensive traditional methods. In thebrand 1960 ustainability nor quality had designs and products. founder of 7 for all mankind premium Dahan.adherence to craftsmanship, quality fabrics, bold by observing the er to make beautiful garments. - They believe in promoting the craft techniques by into the denimized entered business. Jeans b He bought the concept of luxury Denims . When T ony T onnaer founded Kings of Indigo nine KAPITA Industries Apparel and Fashion A premium denimWorld War II and beca designs and products. In 2003 ,Los Angeles-based premium denim brand ans to be 'sustainable' has producing limited products and not producing large years ago, his objective was clear;the to produce cloth-worn byhigher p ized by observing denim US As Japanese craftsme brand, that is mass produced. - They believe inispromoting the craft techniques by This makes their products ing in a sustainable The bra ore intricate, and the future quantities of products. exclu-way both socially and environJerome dahan the founder and designer of Citizens of decided toevery stay true World War II and became acrt compromising on quality. Hefashionable quality Thewithout jeans are hand-crafted and pair Products are sold inand over 80 countries with 100 Humanity before launching this brand he was the co and since ges. sive they areretail unique the price of mentally, products is producing limited products not producing large believed that neither sustainability nor quality had designs dedicated themselves founder of LUCKY JEANS brand (1990) and also the Naked & Famous was founded in 2008. Their headquarAs Japanese craftsmen began producin made in inLos locations in America, Asia, Europe, Middle East. High. to be sacrificed orderAngeles. to make beautiful garments. - They quantities ofofproducts. their products exclufounder 7 for all mankindThis premiummakes brand . (2000) .
The brand was founded on the principles of No washes, no embroidery,no gimmicks.
In addition to their own stores and website, the brand is sold at luxury department stores and high end specialt boutiques around the world.
S T U DY
kingsofindigo.com
s ty
handcrafted denims One of the first to bring the idea of luxury denim brand vintage-inspired silhouette, CLASSIC AND CLEAN
thanculture other regions. is on one of the o time intensive.. After growing tired of celebrity and itsJapan impact of luxury denim brand stay committed to the vintage shuttle-loo the denim industry, Svarc wanted Naked & Famous to be vintage-inspired silhouette, denim manufacturing process which is co a purely product-based denim label that cut out celebriCLASSIC AND CLEAN time intensive.. ty endorsement and advertising. He hoped that this approach would result in an affordable, high-quality product. The brand was founded on the principles of No washes, no embroidery,no gimmicks. kingsofindigo.com
B R A N D ABOUT THE BRAND
S T U DY
When Tony Tonnaer founded Kings of Indigo nine years ago, his objective was clear; to produce clothing in a sustainable way both socially and environmentally, without compromising on quality. He believed that neither sustainability nor quality had to be sacrificed in order to make beautiful garments. Since then, what it means to be 'sustainable' has evolved and become more intricate, and the future promises further changes.
B R A N D kingsofindigo.com
The brand works with a clear objective; to lead the industry to clean up and change. This forward thinking has helped shape and change the path of fashion, Kings of Indigo always being two steps ahead of the rest. Kings of Indigo positions itself as a pioneer in this ever-changing sustainable fashion world, innovating with materials and sustainable production methods, constantly exploring how to reduce the impact on the planet and people
B
FIVE PILLARS OF SUSTAINABILITY
Materials that are used have as little impact on the planet as possible. The collections are rich with natural fibers.
Focus on reducing the amount by using technologies such as the Environmental Impact Measuring system
Every year, they publish their social report online for full transparency.
They currently have a policy whereby suppliers are not allowed to send anything to their HQ or warehouse without the approval to minimize emissions. Â
Internally, they are looking to improve the waste management of our office. Currently, they separate waste by paper, plastic and glass.
CIRCULAR FASHION: A REGENERATIVE APPROACH 150 billion garments are produced a year, and only 1% of all textiles are recycled. Circular systems employ reusing, sharing & recycling to create a closed loop system As a clothing brand, we understand the importance of clothes as a basic necessity, but also a form of creativity and self-expression, a career choice for some, a hobby or interest for others. Clothing in itself does not need to continue to be a problem, but it’s serious time for the industry to change the way it makes the clothes. Over 95% of our collection is made with sustainable materials such as organic cotton, hemp, linen, recycled PET, recycled wool, TENCEL™… to name a few. With every collection, we seek to increase the % of recycled materials and materials that are made in a closed loop production. Our goal by 2025 is ti hae a collection made entirely on man made and recycled materials
kingsofindigo.com
en began producing denim, some o the traditional methods and to produce higher quality denim pan is one of the only places to vintage shuttle-loom produced process which is costlier and more
r, Jerome
mium denim-
th 100 retail le East. te, the brand is h end specialty
Jerome dahan is the founder and designer of Citizens of Humanity before launching this brand he was the co founder of LUCKY JEANS brand (1990) and also the founder of 7 for all mankind premium brand . (2000) . He bought the concept of luxury Denims . The jeans are hand-crafted and every pair of jeans is made in Los Angeles.
The design brief introduces the idea of designing
handcrafted denims fictional character. Alter egos should port One of the first to bring the idea of luxury denim brand as liberating agents. vintage-inspired silhouette, CLASSIC AND CLEAN
g an alter ego for ourselves, the alter ego has to be conceptualized as a
trayed by a face, name, personality and a life story, as the alter egos functions
ALTER EGO
Unpredictable
version of a person that is completely distinct from their normal persona.
What is Alter Ego?
Emotionally Fragile Stage Fright
version of a person that is completely distinct from their normal persona.
Trust Issues
My Shortcomings “second self”
Anger
Lack of Concentration
Talkative
alter ego What is ALTER EGO?
Version of a person that is distinct from their normal persona. or one could say “other self”
KEY TRAITS Unpredictable Carefree Enthusiastic Full of confidence Energetic Bold Rebellious
Untidy
ALTER EGO
21 SKY Purple Pheobe Drizzle Zyna Kalki Lynet October Thunder Laila
Punk 19
Emotionally Strong Lust to travel Efficient
Name
Art Lover
Purple Hair Tattoed A sky sunglasses
Facts about the Alter Ego
Characterstics of my Alter Ego
Adventurous Extrovert Unpredictable Confident Experimental
Street Art
Client profile SKY
NameSex - Female Favorite Activity- Street Artist Her Story- Traveller (just makes random plans and she is ready to go) SKY is a bold & rebellious women who is very unpredictable. SKY is an alter ego of PUNYA SIDANA. She is the personality developed out of her fears. For example - Punya have stage fright and have a very bad habit of overthinking, while Sky is the girl with a lot of energy and full of enthusiam, ready to grasp the world. Sky loves to traveland witness art and she even voluenteer in street art. She is very carefree and full of life. She wants to make statement through her art.
THE GRUNGE VIBE Unpredictable Carefree Bold Impactful Energectic Rebellious Grunge https://pin.it/5Vt2eLH https://pin.it/3FaMuAs
by Kim Duong
by yukihaze
by yukihaze
The image of the character portrays rebellious & grunge nature , a carefree and experimental girl who likes to play with oversized and artistic clothes. The clothes she wear represent her personality.
by yukihaze by Elena Cherny
mjtrim.com
https://pin.it/3TjDxmt
MOOD BOARD
pinimg.com
https://pin.it/5Vt2eLH
https://pin.it/6X7VCGL
https://pin.it/3FaMuAs
mood board The mood board represents the grunge vibe. It also depicts the feeling of breaking all the barriers and living carefree life. The whole vibe is a bit 80s that also show the love of music and art .
Boro BORO
INSPIRATION BOARD
inspiration board The inspiration board over here is to show the oversized and exaggerated silhouettes and for the techniques the board depicts the rawness of boro art and playfullness of colour blocking.
OVERSIZED Oversized
Colour COLOUR Blocking BLOCKING https://pin.it/1h5At4n
https://pin.it/38aLcqW
PLAYING WITH SLEEVES
silhouet SILHOUETTE SILHOUETTE
The silhouette board over here re oversized approach to take the tec ing forwa
oroborostore.com
EXAGGERATED POCKETS
vogue.co
matchesfashion.com
DIFFERENT FABRICS INCOORPORATION
tte board BOARD E
zsazsabellagio.tumblr.com
epresents the exaggerated and chniques of boro and color blockard with.
EXPERIMENTAION
beautysgotsoul.com
http://forthosewhocravefashion.tumblr.com
lovely--delight.tumblr.com
DESIGN ITERATIONS
PANEL OF ORGANZA IN SLEEVES Panel of Organza in sleeves BORO TECHNIQUE USED IN Boro technique used in that panel THAT PANEL
BORO TECHNIQUE Boro techniqueIN COLLAR HIGHLIGHTED Highlighted in collar OVERSIZED Oversized PLEATS ON HEM Pleats on hem
Length variation Boro technique used it sleeves Lapel Quilting in upper bodice Boro techniue on right sleeve Pocket
DESIGN RANGE
BYE PEOPLE
P U N Y A
S I D A N A