PURE Canada by Carol horne

TORONTO shops | MULTi-generational getaways | winemaking 101

TRAVEL | ADVENTURE | STYLE

Newfoundland Live like a local High Arctic Cruising the north Ontario Farm-to-table cuisine

TRAVEL | ADVENTURE | STYLE

PLUS!

16-page visitors’ guide

www.canada.travel

Viva

Vancouver Urban chic meets natural beauty

2009 | www.canada.travel

contents Editorial Editor-in-Chief Dominique Ritter Senior Editor Valerie Howes Editorial Assistants Alexandra Redgrave Adam Elliott Segal, Claire Ward Copy Editor Christopher Korchin Fact checker Jordan Himelfarb Proofreader Tk tk tk tk

Editorial Contributors David Eddie, Wayne Grady, Laurie Jennings, Chris Johns, Mike Landry, Signe Langford, Benjamin Leszcz, Carol Perehudoff, Anicka Quin, Chantal Tranchmontagne, Kira Vermond, Joel Yanofsky

Design Art Director Annelise Dekker Photo Researcher Julie Saindon

28 features

Contributors Editor’s letter

out + about 7 New renaissance 8 Drinks 10 Lodging 12 Food 14 Wellness 16 Sport 18 Winter 20 Culture 21 Prep Course 22 Touring 24 Shopping

2 www.canada.travel

purecanada

ideas at the doors of the exhibition

Culture and sky-high buildings.

spaces on his nationwide tour.

A city of pleasing contradictions,

44 The great escape

Vancouver has nature-loving

WAYNE GRADY

urbanite BENJAMIN LESZCZ all abuzz.

the earth – literally – on a High Arctic

35 On the Rock JOEL YANOFSKY takes

the key to

private heritage homes in Newfoundland and Labrador Several

Production Director Nicole Moir Production Manager Hélène Chalut

Spafax Canada Inc. 4200 Saint-Laurent Blvd., Suite 707 Montréal, Québec H2W 2R2 514-844-2001 Fax 514-844-6001 www.spafax.com Vice-President, Media and Publishing Raymond Girard Managing Director and Publisher Katrin Kopvillem Associate Publisher and Director of Business Development Lyne Farley

Creative Director Erik Mohr Director, Finance and Human Resources Paula Pergantis

Sales APR Canada 468 Queen St. East, Suite 300, Toronto, Ontario M5A 1T7 416-363-1388

Canadian Tourism Commission Vancouver, British Columbia www.canada.travel

The Canadian Tourism Commission (CTC) forms collaboration agreements with private sector parties and provincial/territorial/regional and federal tourism parties (which parties are sometimes referred to as “Partners”) to offer you a variety of Canadian travel services. If you purchase a travel package or any other services offered by one of these parties through the publications offered by the CTC or through the websites of the CTC, you must deal directly with the supplier. The CTC and Spafax Canada Inc. accept no liability whatsoever for errors, omissions and changes in factual information. The CTC accepts no liability whatsoever for the quality or fitness of purpose for services or travel packages offered or referred to in its publications or websites by parties other than the CTC. Reproduction of these materials, in whole or in part, is strictly prohibited.

exchange rates, web addresses, hours of operation, street addresses and telephone numbers may change. “Keep Exploring,” the stylized Canada and maple leaf marks, “Canada.travel” and “Pure Canada” are trademarks of the Canadian Tourism Commission. All rights reserved. Copyright 2009 Pure Canada is published annually by Spafax Canada Inc. All rights reserved. Points of view expressed do not necessarily represent those of the CTC. The magazine assumes no responsibility for the safekeeping or return of unsolicited manuscripts, photographs, artwork or other materials. Pure Canada is printed on recycled paper that contains a minimum of 10% postconsumer fibers. Pure Canada is recyclable in communities participating in magazine recycling programs.

All information was accurate at the publication date. Certain information, such as prices,

44 inside guide

28 Urban by nature Ocean waves and mountain peaks.

Production

Editorial Director Arjun Basu

travels to the end of

cruise. Encounter polar bears and walrus, fjords and glaciers, and one of the world’s most unique adventures.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY ERIK MOHR

surprise visits and a kitchen party

50 Tastemakers

later, he’s practically a local.

Four top restaurants, four exquisite dishes — VALERIE HOWES discovers the

41 Cool and collected

passion, hard graft and farmer-chef

MIKE LANDRY discovers the people and

bonds that make organic ingredients

galleries in Canada constantly re-

sing across Ontario.

defining art. Leave all preconceived

PHOTOGRAPHY BY JOHN CULLEN

57 58 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71 72

Introduction Map British Columbia Alberta Saskatchewan Manitoba Ontario Québec New Brunswick Nova Scotia Prince Edward Island Newfoundland and Labrador Yukon Northwest Territories Nunavut

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: CANADIAN TOURISM COMMISSION, JOHN CULLEN, ERIK MOHR

5 6

Art Contributors Will Allen,John Cullen, Robert Lemermeyer, Erik Mohr, Louise Savoie, Martin Tessler, Shane Ward

www.canada.travel

purecanada 3

Ask us

check o

www .can ada. for trave l PUR exclus i trav ECANA ve e D l A ever storie y mo s nth

Visit our websites or call us for helpful information and friendly travel advice.

Alberta 1-800-ALBERTA (1-800-252-3782)

Nunavut 1-866-NUNAVUT (1-866-686-2888)

British Columbia 1-800-HELLO-BC® (1-800-435-5622)

Ontario 1-800-ONTARIO (1-800-668-2746)

Manitoba 1-800-665-0040

Prince Edward Island 1-800-463-4PEI (1-800-463-4734)

www.travelalberta.com

hellobc.com

www.travelmanitoba.com

New Brunswick 1-800-561-0123

www.tourismnewbrunswick.ca

Newfoundland and Labrador 1-800-563-6353

www.newfoundlandandlabrador.com

www.gentleisland.com

Québec 1-877-BONJOUR (1-877-266-5687) www.bonjourquebec.com

Saskatchewan 1-877-237-2273

www.sasktourism.com

Nova Scotia 1-800-565-0000

Canada

purecanada

www.ontariotravel.net

Yukon 1-800-789-8566

www.novascotia.com

www.nunavuttourism.com

Northwest Territories 1-800-661-0788 www.spectacularnwt.com

4 www.canada.travel

Contributors

www.travelyukon.com

www.canada.travel

Canadian Tourism Commission

Find out more about travel and tourism in our provinces and territories.

ANIMAL MAGNETISM

THE GREAT ESCAPE

TASTEMAKERS

p. 16

p. 50

“Horses respond to a

“I had my first sea

John Cullen experienced

quiet, assured confidence,

kayaking experience on

a first while shooting in

not begging,” Carol Pere-

this trip, and the fact that

Prince Edward County: At

hudoff learned while on

it was on the Arctic Ocean

Vicki’s Veggies, a dozen

assignment for Pure Cana-

made it doubly extraordi-

hens swarmed him, mis-

da. A first-place winner at

nary,” says Wayne Grady.

taking his shoelaces for

the 2007 North American

The author of two books

worms. With recent pass-

Travel Journalists Associa-

on dinosaur hunting (and

port stamps in Scotland

tion Awards (for following

recipient of a certificate

and Costa Rica, this in-

the last known trail of

for crossing the Arctic

trepid travel photographer

Oscar Wilde in Paris, no

Circle), Grady is also an

will be driving the ancient

less), she regularly writes

award-winning French

Silk Road from Shanghai

about the spa industry.

translator.

to Tashkent in 2009.

THE GREAT ESCAPE

SHOP THIS BLOCK

Urban by nature

p. 44

p. 24

p. 28

For Spafax creative direc-

Laurie Jennings is always

After getting to know

tor Erik Mohr, cruising the

multitasking – she edits,

Vancouver’s culinary scene,

Arctic in around-the-clock

writes and offers expert

New York-based Benjamin

sunlight offered an endless

advice on Entertainment

Leszcz returned home

stream of photo-ops, but

Tonight Canada – but

demanding everything lo-

to capture the sky lit up

still found time to shop

cal. “The best meals I had

by the aurora borealis he

with actress Michelle

in Vancouver absolutely

had to seize the moment.

Nolden. “I felt like we were

compete with New York,”

“When the announcement

old girlfriends, laughing

he says. He’s already plan-

came over the intercom

and catching up. But our

ning a trip back to B.C. “I

that the northern lights

tastes are quite different,

spent a week doing less

were starting I had to

so there was no ‘I saw

obvious things – this time I

sprint to get my camera!”

it first.’”

want to visit Stanley Park.”

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purecanada 5

out+ about

Editor’s letter

Urban renaissance This is the kind of place where before long you’ll know the

brought on a case of what he called urban

names of all the staff, and dinner conversation may well in-

ing for wild berries, but when my cell phone

ADD (“Urban by nature,” p. 28). This sense

volve Ryan Gray, the affable and savvy sommelier, or a visit

rang I was picking my way around bramble

of discovery is, of course, why we all make

from chef Emma Cardarelli, whose inventions tend toward

bushes, straining to reach ripe blackberries. I

the decision to take a break from our daily

market fare with strong Italian and French influences. Liver-

was, believe it or not, in downtown Vancouver,

lives, pack our bags and venture somewhere

pool House is the second of three casual, comfortable and

just a few minutes from one of my favorite

different. In this issue, we bring the stories of

sincerely good restaurants opened by chef-owners David

restaurants, Go Fish!, a small harborfront

some other uniquely Canadian experiences.

shack serving the freshest fare netted from

Joel Yanofsky recounts his cultural immersion

the adjacent waters. I hung up the phone and

on a trip to Newfoundland and Labrador (“On

thought, This is a perfect Vancouver mo-

the Rock,” p. 35); Wayne Grady chronicles his

ment. Even in the heart of the city, amid glass

journey to the top of the Arctic (“The Great

skyscrapers and the workday hum, I was

escape,” p. 44) and our senior editor Valerie

standing at the edge of the sea and the foot

Howes traces four iconic Ontario ingredients

of the mountains – I was right in the middle of

from farm to plate in her sumptuous study of

nature and I had a handful of handpicked fruit

the province’s local cuisine (“Tastemakers,”

to prove it.

p. 50). I hope you enjoy the magazine. And I hope

something similar when he went to Vancou-

you find the fuel for your wanderlust. Happy

ver and found that the city’s natural setting

travels! – Dominique Ritter

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purecanada

McMillan and Frédéric Morin with their partner Allison Cunningham along Montréal’s Notre-Dame St. This fastreviving stretch between the Atwater Market and downtown – formerly the exclusive domain of antique stores that shut their doors at 6 p.m. – has become another neighborhood to love, with a cupcake shop (Itsi Bitsi) and the requisite local watering hole (the Burgundy Lion). The warm atmosphere back at Liverpool House quickly makes you feel at home. And if that doesn’t convince you to keep going back, Emma’s ricotta gnocchi just might. louise savoie

Our writer Ben Leszcz experienced

photo: Anouk Lessard/2m2; clothing courtesy of holt renfrew; photographed at Cluny/Art bar | www.cluny.info

It’s not often I field business calls while forag-

2501 Notre-Dame St. W., 514-313-6049, liverpoolhouse.ca

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purecanada 7

+ drink

Crush camps For the love of the grape, get down – and even a little dirty – with an intensive winemaking getaway. By Signe Langford

In the winemaker’s boots

Vineyard-hopping in Naramata

Vintner Ed Madronich and his passionate team at Ontario’s Flat Rock

Leave your gardening gloves at home, but bring an appetite for great

Cellars bring the four crucial seasons of winemaking to life. If you visit

food and a thirst for wine and knowledge. The dedicated folks who

in March, the beginning of the winemaker’s year, Ed might set you to

run the 22 wineries of the Naramata Bench in British Columbia’s

work pruning vines and topping up barrels of last year’s vintage. In

Okanagan Valley won’t put you to work, but they will put you through

June, you’re invited to help put ties on the vines, rain or shine, and hit

your paces eating, tasting and learning. The Okanagan, with its warm,

the lab to test alcohol levels in the grapes. In August, it’s all about drop-

dry and long growing season, is one of North America’s premier wine

ping fruit – cutting away and thinning out the crop of grapes to let the

regions and – thanks to award-winning small-lot wines like the Soaring

flavors concentrate in the remaining bunches. And October’s the time

Eagle Gewürztraminer Icewine and Pinot Meunier – has earned itself

for picking and sorting. Your day’s labor will be rewarded with a sea-

the nickname “Napa North.” The two-day wine education retreat con-

sonally inspired lunch catered by the neighboring Good Earth Cooking

sists of seminars and informal Q&A sessions – how do you deal with

School – in early autumn, they serve a hearty beef stew, spinach, baby

wasps in the vines or bears in the vineyard? – with vintners and grow-

beets and arugula handpicked from the kitchen garden and home-

ers. You’ll also spend time in the cellar working on the art of blending.

style peach cobbler made with plump, sweet peaches fresh from the

And when class is out, there will be enough daylight to stroll through

farm. And for the main event, wine tasting, everyone gathers to sample

the rolling vineyards and orchards of the Naramata Bench, which over-

and discuss Flat Rock’s latest wines, made from cool-climate grapes

looks pristine Okanagan Lake. In the end, everything you’ve learned

like Chardonnay or Pinot Noir. Perched above Lake Ontario on the Nia-

about terroir, grape varieties, food and wine pairing will be put to the

gara Escarpment, near the restored 18th-century village of Jordan, the

test with a blind tasting at the “graduation dinner.” The retreat includes

winery is housed in modern glass-sided buildings boasting 360-de-

two nights at high-end local lodgings such as the Naramata Heritage

gree views of the vineyards and the Toronto skyline. Take time out from

Inn or Lakeside Resort, three wine education seminars, transportation

the fields for antiquing in town, fine dining at The Inn on the Twenty or

between activities, your very own pair of gumboots to take home and,

relaxing at the Inn’s spa with the Wine Country Wrap.

of course, wine with each meal.

$200 for each one-day session. Groups range from 12–15.

$799 per person. Classes are offered spring and fall.

Flat Rock Cellars, 2727 Seventh Ave., Jordan, ON, 905-562-8994,

Naramata Bench Wineries, Okanagan, B.C., 250-317-8796,

flatrockcellars.com

naramatabench.com

8 www.canada.travel

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purecanada 9

+ lodging

All together now On these multigenerational vacations, nobody gets left out. By Kira Vermond

Rocky Mountain Safari

Native American powwow and watching bull

gences include the Keltic Signature Seaweed

The story: Emerald Lake Lodge, nestled

riders at a traditional rodeo.

Body Treatment offered at the full-service spa.

deep in Yoho National Park, in Field, British

One for all: Take a ride in a glass-enclosed

We love: Not only do kids eat free, they also re-

Columbia, is both exotic and secluded. Book

gondola to the 2,285-m (7,500-ft) summit of

its Adventure Safari package for high-octane

Sulphur Mountain, a UNESCO World Heritage

white-water thrills on a jet boat and quieter

Site, or take a tour in a snocoach around the

moments to observe and learn about the

Columbia Icefields’ Athabasca glacier – an

times of the year, too.

area’s rich wildlife. The package includes two

expanse of constantly moving ice that feeds

The cost: Rooms range from $140 to $340 per

nights’ accommodation, breakfast and a one-

pure meltwater into the Pacific, Atlantic and

night, based on double occupancy.

day Columbia River safari.

Arctic oceans.

1-800-565-0444, kelticlodge.ca.

One for all: Cautious travelers, young and old,

Separate but together: While more agile,

will appreciate experiencing white water with-

horse-loving family members take to the trails,

Family concierge

out taking a tumble into the torrents. Board

others can hunker down with a homemade

The story: This luxe Toronto midtown hotel

a jet boat and cruise down narrow canyons

pastry and relax on the deck at one of the

caters to A-list movie stars, posh business

while looking out for bald eagles and white-

ranches or B&Bs where you’ll stay along the way.

executives and other well-heeled guests, but

tailed deer and listening to stories about the

We love: Even 81-year-old travelers have

it also rolls out the carpet for families. Before

Columbia River.

tried the white-water rafting. No wonder: Both

your stay, be sure to provide the reservation

Separate but together: After a day on the

the Kananaskis and Elbow Rivers are graded

staff with the names and ages of your young

water, relax in the Kicking Horse Lounge’s

gentle to intermediate, so nearly everyone

brood and they’ll have age-appropriate wel-

oak bar, salvaged from a 1890s Yukon

shoot the rapids.

come packages ready and waiting. (Just don’t

saloon and decked out in warm cinnamon and

The cost: $2,499 plus tax, per person,

expect the children to share their complimen-

terra-cotta tones. Why not drink your nightcap

double occupancy

tary cookies and milk with Great Aunt Pearl.)

ensconced in retro armchairs by the majestic

1-866-760-8334, homeontherange.ca

One for all: Concierge Liloo Alim, a 30-year

ceive a set of binoculars to check out creatures

Emerald Lake Lodge, British Columbia Riding in Alberta

stone fireplace? Or hit the hot tub with its

such as snowshoe hares and moose on nearby Four Seasons Toronto

trails. Seniors enjoy special rates at different

hotel veteran, knows how to whip up an itiner-

views of the mountains.

Highland High life

We love: There are neither televisions nor

The story: Hikers, golfers and spa aficionados

Internet access in any of the rooms (or mobile

will all get fired up about Nova Scotia’s Keltic

phone service at the resort for that matter), so

Lodge, and on arrival, kids are surprised with

town’s bustle, Little Italy’s gelato scene and

everyone will end up mingling en famille in the

welcome gifts. The luxurious resort is set in

The Danforth for sumptuous Greek cuisine in

games room.

Cape Breton Highlands National Park on a rug-

restaurants with a warm family vibe. Multicul-

The cost: Two nights starting from

ged cliff overlooking the Atlantic Ocean. With

turalism never tasted better.

$468.76 plus tax per person, based on

trails right at the front door of the lodge, eagles

Separate but together: Parents and grand-

double occupancy.

soar, and forests teem with wildlife.

parents who prefer to dine (in relative quiet) on

1-800-661-1367, crmr.com

One for all: The whole family can tuck into a

scrumptious white asparagus salad or butter-

full breakfast, then head off for a whale-watch-

braised lobster at hotel restaurant Truffles can

Home on the Ranch

ing cruise everyone can enjoy. Some ocean

conveniently book in-room babysitting for the

The story: Say “Howdy” to Canada’s West with

mammals swim so close, you may not need

cavorting kids upstairs.

the whole family for one full- (and we mean

those binoculars.

We love: Children under 18 share their parents’

full) week tour. Home on the Range guides

Separate but together: Choose from swim-

room at no extra charge.

transport the clan from Calgary to a rustic

ming in the outdoor pool, kayaking the ocean

The cost: Concierge service is free for guests,

guest ranch in Alberta’s rolling countryside.

waves or slipping off to the 18-hole golf course

babysitting charges an hourly rate.

Then it’s off to horseback riding, visiting a

416-964-0411, fourseasons.com/toronto

10 www.canada.travel

purecanada

ary that includes Toronto cultural hot spots like the newly revamped Royal Ontario Museum Keltic Lodge, Nova Scotia

and Art Gallery of Ontario. Discover China-

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purecanada 11

+ food

Haute hops Culinary inspiration from true brew. By Chris Johns

Beer, once the black sheep of beverages, is shaking off its low-rent reputation and becoming the sophisticated muse at some of Canada’s finest restaurants. At the newly opened Beer Brothers in Regina, Saskatchewan, beer is incorporated into nearly every item on the menu – even the Caesar salad (beer bread croutons are the secret). Desserts too? Yes, that’s Fuller’s Double Chocolate stout in the chocolate coffee stout cheesecake and it comes highly recommended. The annual McAuslan beer brunches, held at the end of February at Montréal’s Au Pied de Cochon to celebrate the beers of this award-winning Québec microbrewer, are as Dionysian as they are delicious. Where else can you start the day with a dram of pale ale with shark soup? At Beer Bistro in Toronto, Ontario, the menu features the kind of glowing descriptions normally associated with wine, so a beer might be touted as “fronted with notes of banana and clove.” To keep things from

Beer Bistro

getting too complicated, however, they divide their lengthy selection of international offerings into categories like spicy, crisp and robust as well as sociable, contemplative and gluten-free. Taking the concept of cooking

with beer one step further, Beau’s Beer in Ottawa, Ontario, has partnered with The Piggy Market to feed their pigs the hops left over from brewing, resulting in happy hogs and tasty chops. In Vancouver, British Columbia, Dix BBQ and Brewery has grown beyond a simple place to stop in for a pint and some ribs – it’s developed an entire culture of its own. The restaurant serves as a kind of beer lovers’ community center with weekly samplings of small-batch cask ales but the ribs – sticky, dark and big as a keg – remain a staple. Dix doesn’t completely ignore beer’s long history as a party-starting Au Pied de Cochon

tion of all things beer. Cheers. Beer Bros. Bakery & Cuisine 1801 Scarth St., Regina, SK, 306-586-2337, beerbros.ca / Au Pied de Cochon 536 Duluth Ave. E., Montréal, QC, 514-281-1114, restaurantaupieddecochon.ca / Beer Bistro 18 King St. E., Toronto, Ontario, 416-861-9872, beerbistro.com / Beau’s Beer 10 Terry Fox Dr., Vankleek Hill, Ontario, 1-866-585-BEER (2337), beaus.ca / Dix BBQ & Brewery 871 Beatty St., Vancouver, B.C., 604-682-2739, markjamesgroup.com/dix.html

Taste of the island Lining the roads of Charlottetown, Prince Edward Island, or adorning a prix-fixe restaurant’s tabletop, sunflowers have come to symbolize the harvest feel of Fall Flavours, a six-day, 130-event culinary festival with an eat-local ethos that feels like one big backyard celebration. Hosted by PEI’s chef du jour and Food Network celebrity Michael Smith (Chef at Large, Chef Abroad), the event is very hands-on – think lifting lobsters out of the trap with Mark Jenkins, the host of an event called Lobster Lovers, driving a tractor during the potato harvest with the Docherty family at Skye View Farms and rolling up your sleeves for home-cooking workshops at the Culinary Institute. On closing night, the historic Inn at Bay Fortune is filled with the warm aromas of five paired courses rustled up by Smith and John Rossignol, proprietor of the island’s only winery. Fall Flavours, September 29 – October 4, 2009, 1-800-955-1864, fallflavours.ca

12 www.canada.travel

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BEER: ISTOCKPHOTO; BEER BISTRO: CRAIGE MOORE; AU PIED DE COCHON: CLAUDINE CO

beverage, however, and their Beerapalooza event is a down-home celebra-

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purecanada 13

+ wellness

On the run Multitaskers, lace up your runners! Personal trainer Ben Poirier of Montréal’s Opus Hotel creates custom jogging routes so guests can take in the sights while pumping up their heart rates. You can follow a trail map to discover the urban architectural riches surrounding the part postmodern, part art nouveau hotel, or head for nature by the Lachine Canal via the vibrant Atwater Market. Some guests book Poirier for his motivational talents – most welcome halfway up an incline of the 101-acre Mount Royal Park, designed by Central Park’s creator, Frederick Law Olmsted. Take note: The view from the park’s lookout, over green spaces, luminescent skyscrapers and old church spires, is well worth the perspiration.

100-mile wellness Using locally grown, all-natural treatments, these spas put the environment first. By Chantal Tranchemontagne

In the heart of Ontario wine country, a two-

Annick Savaria, owner of Menthe Fraîcheur

Ginseng has a well-earned reputation as “the

hour drive from Toronto, you’ll find the 100

Atmosphere & Spa, is a big believer in mint.

root of life.” After all, studies have shown that

Fountain Spa at Pillar and Post. Recent

The proof? She farms over 30 varieties of

it relieves stress, increases oxygenation to

renovations include five new treatment rooms

the potent herb and runs a spa harnessing

the cells, balances and tones the skin and

inspired and sponsored by local wineries:

its properties. Located an hour and half by

detoxifies the body. Translation: Ginseng has

Inniskillin, Château des Charmes, Marynis-

car from Montréal, on a 9-acre property in

properties that should help you look and feel

sen Estates, Reif Estate Winery and Frogpond

Québec’s Eastern Townships, the spa uses

younger. That’s the goal at Sunmore Ginseng

Farm. The spa’s vinotherapy treatments – like

mint to tickle your senses, calm your nerves

Spa in Kamloops, in central British Columbia,

by anicka quin

the Purple Feet Pedicure – feature ingredients

and hydrate your skin. Take the Fraîcheur

the first of its kind in North America. Behind

The menu at Le Scandinave – or lack thereof – is a little surprising at first. Instead of long lists enumerating all types of manis, pedis and

from the area such as fresh-ground grape

package, for example: exfoliation, Swedish

it all is Donna Chang, an expert herbalist who

facials, you’ll find simple regimens based on the 1000-year-old Scandinavian methods of hot and cold water therapy. This spa is located

skin and wine extracts to exfoliate, moisturize

massage and balneotherapy (a floating-bath

set up a ginseng-growing operation in the

in Whistler, British Columbia (a future site of The 2010 Winter Games), at the Riverside Campground on the shores of Lost Lake, in rustic,

and soften your skin. As a bonus, the polyphe-

session). This trifecta of treatments uses mint

picturesque Okanagan Valley in 1989. Try the

woodsy surroundings. You can warm yourself in a Norwegian steam bath, a dry Finnish sauna or a hot bath. Then brace yourself in a cool

nols found in wine are full of antioxidants.

extract in an aloe gel, pumice stone exfoliant

90-minute Ginseng Body Wrap, featuring an

shower, chill out in a hammock or lounge by the fire... and press repeat. The process results in major detox, and breaks down lactic acid

Cheers to that.

and grapefruit mint body balm.

exclusive ginseng honey body mask.

stored in the muscles – perfect if you pushed just a little too hard on the moguls. Add a Swedish massage to the mix and you’re golden

48 John St. W., Niagara-on-the-Lake, ON 1-888-

131 Lovell St., Coaticook, QC, 1-866-949-3256,

925 McGill Pl., Kamloops, B.C., 250-372-2814,

for the rest of the week.

669-5566, 100fountainspa.com

menthefraicheur.com

sunmoreginseng.com/spa

scandinavewhistler.com

14 www.canada.travel

purecanada

Nordic Nirvana

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purecanada 15

+ sport

Animal magnetism Tap into your wild side as you get to know Canada’s creatures. By Carol Perehudoff

Serious horseplay Take a life lesson from a tricolored gelding named Boomer. Horses rely on nonverbal cues, and how they react to you can teach you a lot about the person you present to the world. Ordering a horse to climb onto a platform doesn’t show true leadership if he ignores you. Convincing him to do it through confident posture and assured intention, however, does. The Horse-2-Heart equestrian experience was developed by Ste. Anne’s Country Inn and Spa, in a tranquil setting of wooded hillsides and rolling farmland, near the town of Grafton, Ontario. It’s not about learning to ride – it’s about learning to interact better and tuning into body language, which in turn helps with human relationships. Done in tandem with soothing treatments like the eucalyptus body wrap within the manor setting of Ste. Anne’s – where you can lodge in stone-walled cottages or luxury suites each with their own unique character – it’s an ideal way to improve both the inner and outer you.

Wild cities

steannes.com

The big boys of the sky In British Columbia, the Aerie Resort and Spa has partnered up with

Urban center doesn’t have to mean concrete jungle. Find these natural wonders just steps from downtown.

Pacific Northwest Raptors Ltd. to offer a hands-on falconry course. Located in the Cowichan Valley, Vancouver Island – an area of fertile

By Claire Ward

fields flanked by western red cedars and Douglas firs – the raptor center educates visitors on the handling of the birds. Participants will fly their own birds of prey on a “hawk walk,” and the rare close-up expe-

Montréal rapid transit

Toronto’s secret garden

Victoria: under the sea

rience will make you soar as you witness their incredible flying skills.

Teetering atop one of the Lachine Rapids’

Nature lovers can escape the city’s hustle

You don’t need to travel far from downtown Vic-

After hanging out with the raptors, you can relax with a Wrapture spa

unruly waves, you might start to think of

and bustle without leaving town. Nestled

toria, British Columbia, to be in the company of

treatment at the resort’s wellness center or just take in the bird’s-eye

nearby Old Montréal as a gateway to adven-

behind the north campus of Humber College

sea lions, harbor porpoises and multihued fish.

view of the hilly San Juan Islands and metropolitan Victoria. The Eagle

ture. This once impassable section of the St.

is the entrance to an enchanting four-season

At Ogden Point Dive Centre, chartered dives

View suites overlook the ocean. Tip: Skip the ferry lines and fly to your

Lawrence River is now a wild-water hot spot

conservation area, the Humber Arboretum.

are designed to showcase the local beauty of

lodgings by helicopter – there’s a helipad at the resort.

from May to mid-October, when Lachine

In the 250-acre expanse, you’ll discover a

Race Rocks, an ecological reserve that houses

aerie.bc.ca

Rapids Jet Boat Tours aims for the big waves.

network of trails leading through student-

a dazzling community of feather duster-like

Smaller, more adventurous crews can hang on

designed botanical gardens overflowing with

anemones and gleaming neon sea slugs.

Winter wonders

tight in a speedboat as it simulates a high-

perennials, as well as undisturbed meadows,

First-class dive boats the Cape Able and Juan

The Night Lantern Snowshoe and Wolf Howl is part of a two-night

speed chase. But if you want to rock the waves

woodlands and wetlands. Wildlife sightings

de Fuca Warrior also take divers to a handful of

winter getaway package offered through the Elkhorn Resort at Rid-

under your own steam, grab a paddle and hop

are common: On a self-guided Discovery Walk,

artificial reefs. At the HMCS Mackenzie wreck

ing Mountain National Park, a land of panoramic prairie vistas and

onto a guided white-water raft with Les

you might encounter blue herons, white-tailed

site, you can glide through the kelp-covered

highland forests in south-central Manitoba. The four-star resort has

Excursions Rapides de Lachine. Make sure to

deer or the snapping turtles. The arbore-

hatchways of the 366-ft destroyer-turned-

teamed up with Earth Rhythms, a learning-adventure company, to

bring a change of clothes and watch out – if

tum’s pièce de résistance is the Garden of the

starfish sanctuary and witness over 100

delve into nature’s dark side with a nighttime snowshoe trek into an

you’re a roller coaster screamer, you might find

Rising Moon: an Eastern-inspired flowering

radiant, thriving species playing house. Diving

upland aspen and spruce forest. Under the moonlight, you’ll be drawn

yourself with a mouthful of water before you

haven devoted to the concepts of sound and

certificate courses and specialty diver training

into the nocturnal life of the area as you learn to imitate the howls

can yell “I love this town!”

movement. The garden is best viewed in the

are available year-round. Note to winter divers:

of the elusive gray wolf. Learn how they hunt and travel – if you’re

Lachine Rapids Jet Boat Tours

evening, when the cool silvers, purples and

underwater visibility is greatly increased in

lucky, the northern lights will color the sky and the wolves will answer

514-284-9607, jetboatingmontreal.com

blues of the foliage are cast in bold relief.

cooler water, so don’t forget your camera.

your call. Accommodation is available in newly renovated spacious

Les Excursions Rapides de Lachine

Humber Arboretum

Ogden Point Dive Centre

guestrooms or chalets; you can request one with your own fireplace.

1-800-324-7238, raftingmontreal.com

416-675-5009, humberarboretum.on.ca

1-888-701-1177, divevictoria.com

elkhornresort.mb.ca

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+ winter

Creature comfort Mush your way across Yukon. By Christopher Korchin

There’s nothing like mushing a team of swift sled dogs through pristine wilderness for a jolt of excitement. Uncommon Journeys, a company located about 25 km (15 mi) northwest of Whitehorse and run by husbandand-wife team Rod and Martha Taylor, leads guests on week-long explorations of spectacular north-of-60 regions like the wildliferich Ibex Valley and the Chain of Lakes area. Mastering balance and braking techniques takes only a couple of hours thanks to the Athabasca Glacier

Mushing 101 intro. And after a frosty day’s

Marmot Basin

adventure, sumptuous meals like Arctic char

Sun-Deck

Après-ski, Jasper-style

with a dill and tarragon sauce or prime rib

In the heart of the Canadian Rockies, nighttime offers fair reward for a hard day on the slopes.

shimmering, green-and-red-tinged aurora

By Adam ELLIOTT Segal

borealis. Of course, it’s the dogs that make it

with Yukon Gold mashed potatoes await, as do cozyaccommodations – yurts, tents or rustic cabins – and kaleidoscopic views of the

all truly special: ultra-friendly huskies that Activity SunDog Tours picks you up at your

Jasper National Park) well past sundown. It’s

day-weary adventurers. Soothe your achy

know how to embrace the spirit of winter.

the mountain mecca of Banff. And although

hotel, and from there it’s only a one-hour

dark in the canyon (although several degrees

muscles with Insignia’s 75-minute Stones of

1-867-668-2255, uncommonyukon.com

Banff may have twice the skiable terrain, it’s

drive to Mount Robson Provincial Park, where

warmer than outside), but once you strap on

the Earth treatment, which includes having

time Jasper – short on lineups and big on

a Yellowhead helicopter awaits to take you

a headlamp, the illumination of the limestone,

warm basalt rocks placed gently on the body

hospitality – got its fair shake. From sunrise

Heli-snowshoeing. After a short flight over

the frozen snail fossils and constantly evolving

(and even in between your toes).

to sunset, here’s your guide to Alberta’s other

the Rockies, you’ll strap on snowshoes and

ice formations creates an otherworldly effect.

walksntalks.com, insigniasalonspa.com

resort town.

jaunt off to Berg Lake with a picnic lunch and

Après-ski The D’ed Dog, located inside the

thermos of apple cider for two to three hours of

Astoria Hotel, is one of the oldest bars in town.

Activity For two weeks every January, the

Activity Marmot Basin offers 84 runs and

intermediate snowshoeing and a view of Mount

After tramping around the caves in snow

Jasper in January Festival hosts a huge

1,675 acres of skiable terrain, but the true

Robson, the highest mountain in the Cana-

spikes all day, what you need is somewhere laid-

celebration to ward off the chills of winter.

selling point is the feeling that you’ve got the

dian Rockies.

back and friendly, and this country-themed

Highlights include Cabane à Sucre (an out-

whole mountain to yourself. And to boot, Jas-

Après-ski Pop in to Evil Dave’s with your

pub is exactly that; plus they serve their own

door maple sugar candy tasting on Mildred

per’s ski season extends until the end of April,

new snowshoeing pals for drinks like Unholy

special microbrew: D’ed Dog Traditional Ale.

Lake), and the fiercely competitive chili cook-

making it one of the longest in North America.

Water (lemon vodka martini) and a pasta dish

ravenadventure.com

off held at the Amethyst Lodge, with prizes for

Après-ski Most of the après-ski scene

named The Bad Guy (the evil twin of Pad Thai,

happens in town (20 minutes from Marmot

perhaps?). And environmentalists can rejoice:

Activity If you’re craving a walk on the

Basin), but if you’re craving a post-ski tipple

Evil Dave’s recently won Jasper’s Environmen-

not-so-wild side, Walks and Talks owners

on the mountain, the glassed-in Sun Deck at

tal Stewardship Award for Waste Reduction,

(and husband and wife) Paula Beauchamp

the basin’s base faces south, meaning you’ll

thanks to their emphasis on composting and

and Blair Timmins specialize in low-impact,

have a pristine view of the Athabasca Valley as

biodegradable take-out containers.

guided interpretive outings to the Maligne

you sip a local brew. If you feel like channeling

sundogtours.com

Valley or Athabasca Glacier. Trips take three

your inner ski bum halfway through the day,

hours – expect to be gazing at bighorn sheep

pop by the mid-mountain Paradise and Eagle

Activity Raven Adventures’ Moonlight

and hiking to frozen waterfalls.

Chalets, which has four tiered decks and

Canyon Ice Walk offers three-hour guided

Après-ski The Insignia Salon and Spa inside

plenty of BBQ and beer action.

tours among the 9-m-high (30-ft) icy walls of

the Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge is open

skimarmot.com

Maligne Canyon (inside UNESCO-designated

until 9 p.m., seven days a week – perfect for

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CENTER: GETTY IMAGES; OPPOSITE PAGE: GETTY IMAGES

Jasper, Alberta, lies just three hours from

costumes, colorful booths and, of course, the title of best chili in town. Après-ski This party is your après-ski. Think champagne tastings in the Lobstick Lodge, a Canadian-themed wine and cheese soirée in the chandeliered Mary Schaffer Ballroom at the Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge, or one of the most popular events, Taste of the Town, where local restaurateurs go shoulder-to-shoulder at the Jasper Activity Centre to showcase seasonal food to the public. jasperinjanuary.com, fairmont.com/jasper

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+ culture

+ prep course

Behind the scenes

Culture club

If Canada is the feature presentation, then these books, albums and films are your preview. By Claire Ward

The destination: Nunavut

From coast to coast, artists are warming up for the signature spectacles of

The vehicle: Album The story: If anyone could evoke the ethereal terrain of the Great North, it’s Tanya Tagaq.

Big ticket

Under the radar

Film Ontario’s Toronto Interna-

With her latest album Auk/Blood, she marries hip-hop, contemporary-classical and the Inuit

Film The Gimli Film Festival in Gimli, Mani-

tional Film Festival opens the

toba, puts stars in your eyes, literally – new

musical tradition of throat singing. Known for

door to Academy-Award buzz,

features, documentaries and short films from

her collaborations with Björk and the Kronos

Q&As with cast and crew and

around the world are screened by moonlight on

Quartet, Tagaq brings together string

star-studded soirées all over town.

the shores of Lake Winnipeg.

musicians, DJs, guest vocalists and even a

Sept. 2009, tiff09.ca

July 24–28, 2009, gimlifilmfestival.com

beatbox artist.

Theater Bard on the Beach in

Theater North America’s most elaborate and

The destination: Toronto, Ontario

Vancouver, British Columbia’s Vanier Park is set

longest-running fringe event, Alberta’s Edmon-

The vehicle: Short fiction

against the backdrop of the Pacific Ocean and the

ton International Fringe Theatre Festival hosts

The story: The latest in the international Noir short story series, Toronto Noir

Coast Mountains. Best seat in the house? Your

over 1,200 performances by buskers, musicians

reminds readers that in the long shadows of towering skyscrapers, an entire

picnic blanket.

and up-and-coming thespians.

underworld pulsates with its own sultry, mysterious rhythm. Set in locations like a

May–Sept. 2009, bardonthebeach.org

Aug. 13–23, 2009, fringetheatreadventures.ca

speakeasy in the cobblestoned Distillery District and a seemingly quiet, leaf-can-

Dance After a two-year world tour, Québec’s La

Dance Edgy, contemporary dancers and

La La Human Steps returns home to Montréal

cutting-edge choreographers collaborate to

and Place des Arts to perform Amjad – a

reinvent dance as we know it at the Festival

The destination: Calgary, Alberta

actor Joshua Jackson of Dawson’s Creek) is a good trave-

razor-sharp modern blending of Swan Lake

of New Dance in St. John’s, Newfoundland

The vehicle: Novel

ler, albeit a troubled one. With one week to live, Ben takes

and Sleeping Beauty.

and Labrador.

The story: With evocative prose that’s been compared to that of Dickens, Donna

an antique motorcycle on the open road and drives west

Apr. 30–May 2, 2009, dansedanse.net

July 21–26, 2009, neighbourhooddanceworks.com

Morrissey delivers down-to-earth reads. Her latest novel, What They Wanted, tells

from Toronto to confront his illness. Through the prairies

the story of a brother and sister who leave their outpost home in Newfoundland to

of Manitoba and Saskatchewan to the craggy badlands of

opied townhouse near the University of Toronto, these tales explore (and expose)

The destination: 4,000-km (2,500-mi) road trip

neighborhood secrets that only locals could know.

The vehicle: Feature film The story: One Week’s protagonist Ben Tyler (Canadian

Fine arts Ottawa, Ontario’s Art in

Fine arts The Great Northern Arts

start a new life working on an oilfield in Calgary, Alberta. Morrissey’s vivid depic-

Drumheller, Alberta, and the lush mountain village of Ra-

the Park invites you to grab a glass of

Festival in Inuvik, Northwest Territories,

tions of their new community’s black-gold obsession and Alberta’s stubborn, rich

dium Hot Springs, British Columbia, One Week showcases

homemade lemonade and mingle with

gets festival-goers to roll up their sleeves for

earth bring to life the emotional ordeals of two determined modern-day pioneers.

many of Canada’s most postcard-worthy landscapes.

hundreds of artists from across the country

workshops on stained glass and soapstone

as they showcase their wares, grassroots-style.

carving.

The destination: Montréal, Québec

June 2009, artinfoboy.org

July 10–19, 2009, gnaf.org

The vehicle: Documentary The story: A critical sensation at the 2008 Toronto International

Music The peasant tragedy Cavalleria

Music With sultry soloists in uptown clubs and

Rusticana and the fiery verismo (“realist”)

rocking big bands in downtown pubs, the TD

Pagliacci operas are performed in a double bill at

Canada Trust Atlantic Jazz Festival in Halifax,

Angels revisits 1950s and ’60s

the Grand Théâtre de Québec in Québec City.

Nova Scotia, offers something for everyone.

Montréal with the music of jazz

May 16, 19, 21, 23, 2009, operadequebec.qc.ca

July 10–18, 2009, jazzeast.com

Comedy Vancouver, B.C.’s ComedyFest is the

Comedy Once an impromptu romp, the Queerly

West Coast’s biggest laugh-in. Hot ticket? Front-

Canadian Comedy Show has become a

from the National Film Board’s archives, the film

row seats at the Best of Fest, featuring all the

mainstay of Whistler, B.C.’s annual gay ski week,

invites you to peer into hip nightclubs, poetry salons

event headliners.

WinterPRIDE.

Sept. 2009, comedyfest.com

Feb. 2009, gaywhistler.com

Film Festival, The Memories of

legend Oscar Peterson and Russian composer Igor Stravinsky.

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A mosaic of interview footage and iconic stock shots

and busy markets to soak up the spirit of revelry in La Belle Ville that still exists today. www.canada.travel

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+ touring

Cool cruising

Hands-on experiences on the high seas (and calm waterways).

From Kenora with love

HARMONY AT SEA Whale song becomes audio entertainment

Our fearless-in-the-face-of-luxury writer David Eddie lives large on the Grace Anne II.

thanks to the hydrophone aboard Captain Mark’s whale- and seal-watching tours, off the

I’m sitting on the “fly deck” (that’s the roof to non-nautical civilians)

Anne II bathrobe and a rain jacket that fit me perfectly. XXXL. How did

coast of Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia

of the Grace Anne II, a beautifully restored 1931 yacht. As I sip coffee

they know? But then I remember they asked me for my height and

whaleandsealcruise.com

served by a steward in full-dress uniform (complete with epaulets and

weight on a form before the trip. Talk about attention to detail.

name tag), and watch the dawn light twinkling on the waters of Lake of

the Woods, Ontario, I’m starting to feel a little... James Bond-like.

surprise birthday present to his wife, it’s been tooling around the waters

Capital Cruises’ Empress of

The feeling only intensifies as three tricked-out speedboats, also

of Lake of the Woods, near Kenora, Ontario, for almost 80 years. And

Ottawa, on the Ottawa River, comes equipped

driven by men in uniform, come blasting around the corner in trian-

the eight guests it can accommodate at any one time truly live large.

with its own history channel – a GPS-trig-

gular formation, glide up to the starboard (right) side of the yacht and

gered audio tour of the nation’s capital in a

pop open the little doors in their windshields in perfect unison.

ing fancy – some only half-formed, some I didn’t even know I had – is

series of evocative historical vignettes.

catered to by liveried stewards. One in particular, Scott, seems almost

capitalcruisesottawa.com

“Mr. Eddie,” I half expect them to say. “Something’s come up and we

The Grace Anne II is a floating piece of history. Originally a millionaire’s

PLUG INTO HISTORY

During my three days on the boat, my every whim, urge and pass-

need you back at headquarters immediately.”

able to read my mind. Mmm, I might think, watching the sun set on the

But no, they’re just here to take us fishing.

fly deck (where I spent most of my time). What would be great right

Every day there’s a multitude of off-board activities to choose from:

now would be...

TAILOR-MADE TOURS Luxury cruiser or cutting-edge catamaran?

waterskiing, photography tours, therapeutic massage, ATV touring

“Gin and tonic, Mr. Eddie?” And there it is, twinkling on his tray.

to ostrich medallions (which melt in your mouth like butter), and all so

Choose from more than 80 craft among

and hunting to name a few. Not that staying on board lacks appeal.

Mmm, I might think a short while later, little peckish. Wouldn’t mind some...

deliciously in his tiny galley belowdecks, we never quite understand.

Cooper Boating’s fleet. Custom charters

Stepping onto the yacht – lovingly restored so that every brass fitting

“Hors d’oeuvres, Mr. Eddie?” And he would start laying them out.

But several times over the course of our three-day voyage, we have the

around British Columbia’s Gulf Islands are

gleams like new; even the ropes on deck are coiled just so – is like

As the boat quietly cuts through the water, dinner is served. It is

captain haul him up for a toast to his culinary skills.

your ticket to secluded picnic spots, hiking

stepping through a portal to another time. My room is beautifully ap-

accompanied by fine wines and prepared by Chef Nicky, a Frenchman

trails and pristine beaches. Skipper optional.

pointed. The porthole opens and closes, there’s an elegant sink and

who fell in love with a Kenora girl while backpacking in South Africa.

Lodge, on a Dr. No-like private island complete with a skeet shooting

dresser, and a closet too, inside which I find a fluffy terrycloth Grace

How he’s able to prepare everything from scallop bisque to braised elk

range and a golf range looking out to the lake. (You hit the balls into the

Halfway through the cruise we make a shore stop at The Turtle Bay

cooperboating.com

lake; divers retrieve them later.) Skeet shooting is not for me. Those

GO FISH...

clay pigeons – it’s impossible to hit those little suckers! They’d be hard

... for lobster. The locals show you how it’s

enough to hit if they were standing still, but instead a mechanical arm

done with Shediac Bay Cruises in Pointe

tosses them into the air and you have to try to hit them on the fly!

du Chêne, New Brunswick. After some lively

cooking lessons and shell-cracking demos,

I miss every one. A wily and handsome young Scot nicknamed

Mackay, meanwhile, misses his first shot but then hits the next three

a feast of freshly cooked lobster is served

in a row. “Just luck, old boy,” he says. Okay, I added the “old boy,” but in

on board.

every other way he suddenly seems very... Sean Connery-like to me.

lobstertales.ca

Later, as we sit in the cedar hot tub sipping triple single malts, I feel

as if there’s just one thing missing. This moment, with the scotch, the hot tub, the sun peeking through the pines, what would be really nice and make it perfect would be a big, fat...

“Cohiba?” Scott asks, materializing at my elbow, proffering a Cuban

cigar in its silvery case. He even has matches and one of those little snipper thingies, those little cigar guillotines.

I resist the urge to hug him and say, “Scott, you’re amazing!” That

would be a most un-Bond-like thing to do. So I merely nod, thank him curtly and hop onto my waiting speedboat. As we zoom off, wind ruffling my hair, I peer into the distance with what I hope is a Pierce Brosnan- (or even Daniel Craig-) like squint. Charters run mid-May to mid-Oct. Two- to five-day trips available. 1-800-9873857, graceanne.com

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+ shopping 4

Of course, the young mother can’t pass a children’s store without stopping, and she’s delighted by what she sees at Planet Kid. “There’s really cute stuff in here,” she says. “I love that

Shop this block

it’s all made by local craftspeople.” Launched by designers

Actress Michelle Nolden – who most recently appeared in The Time Traveler’s Wife – shares her favorite retail fixes along Toronto’s coolest strip, Queen Street West.

pieces. This time around, she picks up some witty cards for

and moms Carolyn Murphy and Sara Fillmore, the playful enterprise is known for its adorable onesies, ultra-soft knits and unique toys and art. In fact, Michelle already owns a few upcoming baby showers. 960 Queen St. W., 416-537-9233, planetkid.ca

By Laurie Jennings

A new mom with limited free time, Michelle likes stores where she can cover all her

about it is they sell things you can easily dress

up or dress down.” The store carries hard-to-

Givins St.

the latest form-fitting jeans. “The thing I love

Ossington Ave.

go for a sophisticated red-carpet number or

Brookfield St.

Jacflash. The über-stylish shop is where she’ll

Fennings St.

Dovercourt Rd.

bases, and that’s why she chooses to meet at

Queen St. W

find labels for men and women from around

Shaw St.

Olivia – as well as glamorous accessories. 1036 Queen St. W., 416-516-8766, jacflash.net

Crawford St.

the world – including Hollywood fave Alice + Richmond St. W

Clafouti Patisserie et Café is where we stop and grab a coffee. “Everything’s so delicious here,” says Michelle. “The owners areAdelaide St. W French, and I love their Parisian approach.” The local haunt serves up rich, buttery croissants, sumptuous berry-filled tarts and other tasty

mid-’90s, the gallery is famous for showcasing contemporary photography; exhibits

treats – all baked fresh daily (so when they’re gone, they’re gone).

run from four to six weeks. The actress loves the Old Hollywood movie shots currently

And with only three small tables to accommodate the constant flow of

on display, but she isn’t in the mood to add to her collection today. “I’m in the middle of

customers, it’s best to order to go and enjoy the eats across the street

moving, so it’s not the best time to buy art.” She also loves the gallery’s most recent addi-

in the splendid Trinity Bellwoods Park.

tion: Camera, a chic and austere lounge and screening venue, where a row of incandescent

915 Queen St. W., 416-603-1935 Givins St.

Brookfield St.

1026 Queen St. W., 416-504-0575, bulgergallery.com

Fennings St.

lightbulbs dangle at varying heights over the long, sleek bar.

Ossington Ave.

Walking east, next up is the Stephen Bulger Gallery. A Queen West fixture since the

Dovercourt Rd.

Queen St. W 1

Stepping inside specialty grocery store Organic Boutique, Michelle is immediately intrigued

The designers at Preloved pioneered the art of creating cool clothes for men Crawford St.

by the vanilla bean-infused maple syrup from Northern Ontario. As she oohs and aahs over other flavors (including a bourbon-spiked variety), proprietor Steve Tracey proudly explains

St. W and women out of recycled vintage pieces. Richmond Now the shop is happily settled into

that he stocks artisanal, small-batch offerings from all over the world. “I have to come back

a swank new flagship location. “I love that they’ve moved this far west,” says

here and buy stuff,” says Michelle, eyeing delicacies such as preserved Chilean carica, specialty

Michelle as she flips through racks of clothing. She’s admiring a mango dress,

jams and spreads from South Africa, wild B.C. salmon and the wide selection of organic offer-

but sadly there isn’t one in her size. More sleek and spacious than its previous

ings and fair-trade coffee.

retail location, the new store is a sophisticated showcase for the stunning one-of-

970 Queen St. W., 416-536-3851

a-kind creations.

Shaw St.

Adelaide St. W

881 Queen St. W., 416-504-8704, preloved.ca

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urban by

nature

Vancouver, the future site of The 2010 Winter Games, perfectly combines West-Coast cool and big city style. And the great outdoors is right downtown. By Benjamin Leszcz

CLEAR BLUE SKIES AND A CRISP LATE-SUMMER BREEZE WOULD seem to promise the perfect day for boating in British Columbia. But this is not necessarily the case – a lesson I learn when my bottled water drops out of my hands onto the deck of the speedboat I’ve rented. A crisp breeze on Vancouver’s shores, apparently, can translate into a surprising gust on the water. Accelerating out of English Bay, the boat bounces over whitecaps. My friend Meagan is tucked under a blanket as we enter Burrard Inlet. We slow the boat as it hugs the beaches that border downtown Vancouver, and then the seawall along Stanley Park. The park is a mass of green, with the city’s sleek glass skyscrapers poking out from behind. Straight ahead are the $20-million waterfront manses of West Vancouver. Beyond them, Ten Commandments-style rays of light illuminate Cypress Mountain, the site of the freestyle and snowboarding events for The 2010 Winter Games. To our left, the water seems to go on forever, though Vancouver Island sits beyond the horizon.

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Caption: Ignibh eugue velis nonsequipit atem ipit wisi blam exeriusci eugiat ea conse dolore do ea feu faci blan ex et iliqui eugait ad doloreet vulput duiscilis do el dionulp utp.

It’s hard to imagine that we’re anywhere near a city, yet basically we’re in the middle of Vancouver. Only a half hour ago, I was sipping a caipirinha on a patio at Kitsilano Beach. Inspired by the white boats dotting English Bay just beyond the deck, Meagan and I abandoned our drinks, heading to nearby Granville Island for a new adventure. Vancouver can inspire this kind of urban ADD. Surrounded by ocean and mountains, this is a city in, on and around nature. The consequence, beyond the occasionally interrupted cocktail hour, is a kind of heightened awareness: it’s impossible to forget precisely where you are. With the sun shining brightly the next morning, I return to Granville Island, a bustling shopping district that hasn’t technically been an island since the 1950s, when part of False Creek (which, incidentally, isn’t a creek) was reclaimed. Along with Sandra and Brian, who have left five kids, two dogs and two cats in nearby Coquitlam for the day, and Becky Huntley, our pretty 21-year-old guide, I set out for a morning of kayaking. Brian, a 51-year-old police officer, is a lumbering giant, so it takes some wiggling for him to squeeze into the tandem kayak that he and Sandra share. We head inland, along the south end of downtown. Soon, I find my 30 www.canada.travel

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rhythm and am zipping smoothly through the water, enjoying the unusual perspective on the city. Passing a sign that reads “Max Speed: 5 Knots,” I paddle even harder, taking the posted figure as a challenge. I imagine being pulled over by the coast guard. “I’m sorry, sir... No, I don’t know how fast I was going. 30 knots, you say? That couldn’t... I guess I didn’t realize my strength.”

Vancouver can inspire this kind of urban ADD; there’s always a park or bay in sight, enticing with possibilities. My arms tiring, I make my way back to shore for lunch at Go Fish, a modest shack that often purchases its fish from Fisherman’s Wharf the day it’s caught. I find my place in line, and after 10 minutes – quick, by Go Fish standards – I order a famous tacone, a tortilla stuffed with salmon, cilantro, salsa and chipotle cream, and some fish and chips. I find a seat and bite through the perfectly crisp shell of the beer-battered halibut, sinking my teeth into the moist, flaky fish. Topped with tangy tartar sauce, the fish is

so utterly delicious that I zone out. Hearing and seeing nothing, I wonder why I’ve ever bothered eating anything else. But later, my appetite is whetted by the colorful fresh produce on a 24-hectare patch of land on the University of British Columbia campus that is North America’s only urban farm. Mark Bomford, the farm’s 33-year-old program coordinator, greets me when I arrive. “It’s improbable that the farm exists right here,” he acknowledges, looking every bit the urban farmer in jeans, a zip-up hoodie and Blundstone boots. We tour the property, strolling past lush herbs and juicy tomatoes growing alongside green, red and yellow peppers. There are even chickens here, which at one point captivate me with their senseless pecking and waddling. “This is what people did before TV,” Bomford says, chuckling. Since the farm’s reestablishment in 2000 (it was closed in the 1960s and then revived by a grassroots student effort), it has become an integral part of the local foodie scene, which is understandable: This is the city that spawned the 100-mile diet. The public is free to visit year-round – there are picnic tables everywhere – but most of last year’s 40,000-odd visitors came on Saturdays for the weekly market. The farm also supplies several restaurants – “places,” Bomford says, “that simply want to serve the best

ingredients available.” Customers include Provence Mediterranean Grill, which features the farm’s veggies in its renowned antipasti menu; West, often described as the best spot in town thanks to dishes like seared tuna in a ginger broth and sea bream with pumpkin and truffle gnocchi; and Bishop’s, a pioneer of the local-food movement. Certainly, star chefs Jean-Georges Vongerichten and Daniel Boulud, both recent arrivals to the city, will be taking advantage of the local bounty. (Rumor has it that British bad boy Gordon Ramsay is also considering a local franchise.) Mary Macintyre, the Australian chef-owner of the kid-friendly Little Nest restaurant, says the new chefs will help make Vancouverites “more discerning diners.” I meet Macintyre, by chance, while lunching at Medina, a new spot with a European and Middle-Eastern inspired menu. “I’m seeing more foodies here,” she says. At her own place, where she serves brunch with a gourmet twist, she says, “I have fewer and fewer people asking, ‘Where are the hash browns?’” From my suite at the Listel Hotel, I set out to find the remnants of the 2007 sculpture biennale. (The works for the 2009 biennale will be unveiled in May.) I see Jasper, a work of steel spirals that sits near my hotel, but it’s King and Queen, by the Romanian-Canadian Sorel Etrog (who also dewww.canada.travel

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signed the statue for the Genie Awards, Canada’s version of the Oscars), that mesmerizes me. The pair of 3-m-high (10-ft) bronze statues face Stanley Park across Coal Harbour and seem to reign over the city. Behind them, the sun appears to be shining brightly from the west – an illusion, I realize, created by the green and blue glass towers that bounce light all over town. There are no coincidences in Vancouver’s meticulously planned skyline. Spaced optimally to allow for “view corridors,” the towers actually enhance the feeling of being in the midst of nature. The city has clearly taken

There are no coincidences in the city’s meticulously planned skyline. Towers are spaced to allow for “view corridors.” advantage of its youth; settled in the mid-to-late 19th century by folks chasing gold or milling lumber, it started to boom at the turn of the 20th century. In the 1950s, visionary urban planners made a commitment to high-rise development downtown in order to keep the urban core dense. The strategy worked, and the city continues to erect towering skyscrapers as the core becomes increasingly concentrated. (The 2010 Winter Games have only fueled the boom; the billion-dollar athletes’ village, for example, will ultimately provide 1,100 new residential units.) Though the city’s building code includes strict height limits, an exception was made for the new Shangri-La Tower to improve the appearance of the skyline. The Shangri-La, home to Market, Vongerichten’s restaurant, is now the 32 www.canada.travel

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Forces of nature Across the country, the thrills of urban adventure call. Flit from upscale restaurants and cultural centers to green spaces and inviting waters in and around these three major cities: Montréal One of the largest bilingual cities in the world is right here in Canada. And, there are over 5000 restaurants to choose from once you’ve built up an appetite enjoying the outdoors. Cross-country skiing buffs can rejoice – in winter, Mount Royal Park offers 20 km (12 mi) of winding trails across hilly terrain. The park overlooks the city and skirts neighborhoods such as well-to-do Westmount and multicultural Côte-desNeiges. In summer, on Sundays, hundreds of drummers and picnickers gather by the park’s George-Étienne Cartier monument for an impromptu event known as the Tam Tam Jam. lemontroyal.qc.ca

Calgary Calgary’s proximity to the Rocky Mountains is reason

enough to visit year-round, but a must-attend summer festival is the Calgary Stampede, an annual event celebrating the rich cowboy heritage of the West. Plus, the city is home to one of Canada’s largest urban parks, Fish Creek Provincial Park. Highlights include strolling along the Bow River, picnicking by Sikome Lake or doing like the locals and taking a dip at the public beach. tpr.alberta.ca/parks/fishcreek/

Toronto Canada’s biggest theater stars shine brightest on King St. in Toronto, a destination where culture attracts visitors in tandem with the city’s proximity to lakes and lush green spaces. The city’s Harbourfront, on the shores of Lake Ontario, is steps away from the theater district, offering yearround activities ranging from skating in winter (on a rink with a striking shoreline view of the lake) or wandering through the Yo Yo Ma-co-designed Toronto Music Garden in summer for free concert and dance performances. harbourfrontcentre.com

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Ferryland Cape St. Mary's

Each item in Vaira’s shop, designed to last for multiple seasons, has a tag with a checklist. I can see, for example, that the Poiret Turtleneck, an organic cotton, soy and spandex top I consider buying for my girlfriend, is sustainable, local and one-of-a-kind. Adam Katz, the founder of Nate Organic T-shirts, supplies his East Vancouver-manufactured clothes to Roots and Acteryx. He’s a vocal advocate of using fabric that’s at least a bit organic. “With a little directional change now, we’ll diverge more over time,” he says. On my last day in Vancouver, it’s drizzling lightly – the first rain I’ve seen all week. I am reconsidering the hiking plans I’d made with Meagan. Perhaps we should visit one of Vancouver’s historic movie theaters instead, I suggest. But Meagan is unmoved. Thank goodness: Populated by 500-year-old Douglas firs and monstrous Western red cedars, Lighthouse Park, like Stanley Park and the Endowment Lands, is surreal, cinematic, even awe-inspiring. Throughout my visit, I’d prayed for the skies to stay clear, but now, with the fresh moisture bringing the virgin rainforest to life, I understand Vancouver better than I have all week. This place is about more than perfect sunny days; it’s about nature – something raw and unpredictable. Earlier, Meagan had described the hike as “spiritually nourishing.” I nodded in agreement without fully understanding. But when we arrive at the lighthouse, sitting atop the smooth granite rocks of Point Atkinson, we turn to the left and see a thick cloud of fog hanging over downtown. To our right, toward the Sunshine Coast, a rainbow stretches across the blue sky. And I get it. n 34 www.canada.travel

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Travel essentials

Eat Go Fish is more than just a seafood shack: it’s a fish ’n’ chips institution. Located on Granville Island, it offers diners a fantastic view of False Creek. 1505 W. 1st Ave., 604-730-5039 At Provence Mediterranean Grill, the antipasti’s veggies are sourced as much as possible from the only urban farm in North America. For dessert, try Chef Jean Francis’ signature lemon tarte – he started making it for his mother’s dinner parties at just eight years old. 4473 W. 10th Ave., provencevancouver.com/mediterranean Trendy 4th Ave. is a street of organic butchers, cool cafés and independent bookstores, and it’s also been home for 22 years to local fine-dining pioneer Bishop’s. 2183 W. 4th Ave., 604-738-2025, bishopsonline.com

Experience Stanley Park, North America’s third-largest urban park, buzzes with activity: Cycle the seawall, stroll along the edge of Lost Lagoon or take in Theatre Under the Stars at the Malkin Bowl. vancouver.ca/parks/parks/stanley Cypress Mountain is just 30 minutes from downtown Vancouver, and shuttle service from the city core runs daily. Once you’re on the hill, choose from downhill skiing, careening down the chutes at the snowtubing park or snowshoeing the backtrails. 604-419-SNOW (7669), cypressmountain.com

Located on Gallery Row on South Granville, Diane Farris Gallery showcases both contemporary Canadian artists and international heavy hitters. 1590 W. 7th Ave., 604-737-2629, dianefarrisgallery.com

Sleep The Listel Hotel 1300 Robson St., 1-800-663-5491, thelistelhotel.com Opus Vancouver 322 Davie St., 1-866-642-6787, opushotel.com L’Hermitage 788 Richards St., 1-888-855-1050, lhermitagevancouver.com Hotel Vancouver 900 W. Georgia St., 1-866-540-4452, fairmont.com/hotelvancouver Loden Hotel 1177 Melville St., 1-877-225-6336, lodenvancouver.com Westin Bayshore 1601 Bayshore Dr., 604-682-3377, westinbayshore.com

Newfound friends

Fun fact Vancouver’s Chinatown is Canada’s largest, and home to the skinniest commercial building in the world, the Sam Kee Building, designed in 1913.

Getting here Tourism Vancouver, 604-6822222, tourismvancouver.com Tourism BC, 1-800-HELLO-BC (1-800-435-5622), hellobc.com

In Newfoundland and Labrador, cultural immersion goes well beyond meeting the locals. It’s about living like the locals and maybe even having a kitchen party thrown in your honor. By Joel Yanofsky PETER HELM

This place is about more than perfect sunny days; it’s about nature – something raw and unpredictable.

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tallest building in town. Its rooftop garden is visible from where I stand at Coal Harbour. Though Michael Dennis’ Courtyard sculptures are not a part of the biennale, they are among the most celebrated works of public art here. The simple, 2.5-m-tall (8-ft) figures, which resemble the human form in an imposing, almost menacing way, are made of cedar scavenged on Vancouver Island. The group of nine stands watch on South Granville’s gallery row, in front of the prestigious Diane Farris Gallery. When I meet with the gallery’s director, Patricia Blakney, she is preparing for an exhibit of Dale Chihuly’s glasswork. “We’re normally not such a mess,” she says, apologizing for the boxes packed into the gallery. But the clutter does little to distract from the paintings on the wall: the impressionistic landscapes of local artist Pat Service. Blakney says that Service, who often uses solid, bright colors to contrast fields and rivers with dark, layered mountains behind them, is “focused on the moment in nature.” Dennis, on the other hand, is not concerned with capturing nature as it is; instead, he reshapes it to reflect what Blakney calls “the human aspects that arise from nature.” A few kilometers away, on the retail strip of South Main – SoMa, in real estate lingo – the human relationship to nature receives a different twist. Here, designers and retailers like Jessica Vaira, co-owner of Twigg & Hottie, are building Vancouver’s reputation as a rising fashion capital.

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THE DAY BEFORE I LEAVE FOR NEWFOUNDLAND AND LABRADOR, CapeRace cultural Adventures founder Ken Sooley calls with a helpful suggestion. He tells me to venture outside my comfort zone. “Be an extrovert,” he says. He offers this advice as if he suspects this is the one thing someone from a big mainland city might not be. He has a point. Where I live, being standoffish is a lifestyle choice. Sooley created CapeRace in 2004. The idea: to give visitors an up-closeand-personal experience of the place and people. For my week’s stay, I’ll be provided with keys to private heritage houses in St. John’s, Heart’s Delight and Bonavista. I’ll be among neighbors, who may just drop by. Even throw me a kitchen party – a lively gathering with friends, instruments and singing around a keg. Anyway, that’s the refrain in CapeRace’s Traveller’s Diary, which proves invaluable. There are tips on everything from where to get your hair cut to where to get drunk to where to attend church services. The Diary also contains an inordinate amount of hiking information – Newfoundland isn’t called the Rock for nothing – all of which I’m ignoring. That includes tips on the trail up to Signal Hill Historic Park (where Marconi received the first transatlantic signal), which is conveniently located outside the door of my first residence, the Hipditch House in St. John’s. In a way, my staying at Hipditch undermines Sooley’s master plan. I’m quite comfortable. The house’s decor is blue, white and nautical, and staying here it’s hard not to feel like a spoiled kid in a sailor suit. Located in the Battery district, my house is tucked into the cliffs of the Narrows and overlooks St. John’s Harbour. The Harbour is itself a kind of refuge from the rough, unpredictable North Atlantic. An “oasis port,” I’ve heard it called. So on an unseasonably warm September day, I gaze out at the calm water and watch my neighbors, in hiking apparel, make their way uphill. It’s all I can do not to heckle. The truth: I’ve always considered hiking like being on a treadmill – only outside. When I finally do head out, I head downhill. Downhill is easy in St. John’s: It’s a city on a slant. I explore Outer Battery Road, a narrow street dotted with craft shops and the odd B&B. I’m enjoying the stroll on the innocuously named Harbourside East Concourse when it occurs to me that I’m not strolling anymore. I’m ascending

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Close to home

At GEOS Language Academy Montreal, feel like a member of the family by living with locals as you study French in the 2nd largest francophone city in the world. Added bonus: You can practice your new language skills with your hosts at the dinner table. 1-888-685-4367, geosmontreal.com

At Firesign Art and Design Studio and B&B on Quadra Island in British Columbia, take intimate 36 www.canada.travel

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painting workshops with owner Nanci Cook (and no more than seven people) while staying on her lush ten-acre homestead. 250-285-3390, firesignartanddesign.com

The Dunroamin’ Retreat in Crag Lake, Yukon, is perfect for getting away from it all. Recommended for couples, you’ll be one of no more than four guests at this quaint B&B. Join Jeanine Baker in one of her stained glass workshops, or rub shoulders with owner Suzanne Picot in the kitchen, where you’ll learn traditional sourdough baking. 867-821-3492, dunroaminretreat.com

KEN SOOLEY

Sometimes bigger isn’t better. Opportunities to stay with Canadians abound, whether at a small inn or in a local family home. Here are a few standout experiences:

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One moment you’re driving by “the barrens,” the remains of Newfoundland’s glacial prehistoric past, the next you’re in a postcard-pretty little cove. bought at the gift shop on Signal Hill when I finally drove up. Cathia, a former Montrealer, has lived in St. John’s for two decades. She fell in love with a Newfoundlander and Newfoundland, though not necessarily in that order. Her friendly warning is worth keeping in mind. Mainlanders can be patronizing – they have a tendency to turn Canada’s fourth-largest island into “a Pet Rock,” as another local put it. “This place receives people in its own style with a friendliness that takes some getting used to for someone visiting,” Cathia tells me with a combination of pride and protectiveness. Then, as if on cue, the bakery transforms into a kind of public kitchen party, as accordionist Frank Maher, a local favorite, and his band play traditional tunes for a standing-room-only crowd. The audience is a mix of old and young, regulars and newcomers, those who arrive early to get a seat and those amazed by what they’ve stumbled into. “Every 38 www.canada.travel

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after being stranded on an icefield. Located on the Mockbeggar Plantation, the now 300-year-old property is where Joey Smallwood, the province’s first premier, strategized for his plan to have Newfoundland join the Canadian confederation in 1949. A walk around Bonavista will also take you past carefully stacked rows of lobster cages and fish flakes (the wooden racks used to hang cod when cod was still plentiful), which seem to be on display largely for the sake of tourists. Not unlike The Matthew – the life-size replica of the preposterously small ship that Giovanni Cabot, a.k.a. John Cabot, somehow sailed across the Atlantic to Newfoundland in 1497. The Flat Earth Society, commendable for its stubbornness if nothing else, insists that Newfoundland is one of the four corners of the world. Driving at night from the Mouland House to Cape Bonavista along a winding, foggy stretch of road, I can see why. You feel like you’re heading into the ocean and off the edge of the world. Cape Bonavista is where Cabot supposedly first made landfall. According to legend, his first words were: “Buena Vista!” What else could he say? Back in St. John’s for my last day, I’m figuring, as with hiking and scenic routes, I’ll give being an extrovert a try. I drop in, unannounced, on my neighbor Deanie Pittkin. She’s a Newfoundlander but, like most people here, lived away for a time – in her case, in Virginia. Also like most people I meet, she’s returned. She rented the Hipditch House a few years ago to throw a family party, and liked the spot so much she bought her own place three doors down. Now, every morning she hikes the Harbourside East Concourse. “I made it as far as the chain,” I confess. “Yes,” she says, “the

Bonavista Lighthouse Elliston

Atlantic Ocean Heart's Delight

St. John's

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Travel essentials National Geographic included cally restored home that comes custom-travel company CapeRace complete with handmade dressers Cultural Adventures as part and wooden floors. N of their 2008 “Tour of a Lifetime” caperace.com West Vancouver series. Stanley 647-284-3696, caperace.com Park Burrard Eat Inlet Located in a 100-year-old former Do hardware store, Auntie Crae’s has Signal Hill remained true to its roots, mainUBCHistoric Park, a naEnglish Baythe original architecture RO tional historic site overlooking the taining BS Atlantic, offers reenactments of and now thriving as a place toONpick ST 19th-century military drills and up local partridgeberry jam or striking views of St. John’s Harbour. freshly roasted coffee. pc.gc.ca/lhn-nhs/nl/signalhill/ 1-709-754-0661, auntiecraes.com W 4TH AVE index_e.asp W BROADWAY Sleep Ten minutes from downtown St. John’s in the Battery neighborhood, modern decor meets 19th-century fishing village at the Hipditch House. caprerace.com In the town of Bonavista, three hours from St. John’s, be prepared for a kitchen party at the Thomas Mouland House. caperace.com Heart’s Delight isn’t a Valentine’s Day present – this picturesque Newfoundland town is home to the E.J. Sooley House, an authenti-

Getting here Major Airport: St. John’s International Airport (YYT)

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Every story you hear in Newfoundland is an unraveling one.

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“Just take care,” Cathia Finkel says when we meet at Auntie Crae’s, a popular St. John’s bakery. She’s not referring to hiking – she’s frowning, instead, at the hat, a touristy replica of a banana-yellow sou’wester I

Tuesday at noon,” Cathia says. “Something, isn’t it?” On family vacations, my wife prefers the scenic route. I prefer the straightest, dullest distance between two points – I’m a destinations guy. But driving alone along the historic and scenic Baccalieu Trail from St. John’s to my second stop in the outport community of Heart’s Delight, I realize arriving is overrated. The trip along the coast of the Avalon Peninsula should be 90 minutes. It takes me most of the day. That’s because there are only scenic routes here. What’s remarkable about the drive is the shifting nature of the landscape. One moment you’re driving by “the barrens,” the remains of Newfoundland’s glacial prehistoric past, the next you’re in a postcard-pretty little cove. I also find myself constantly meandering and backtracking, surprised, startled even, by a beautiful stretch of coastline or by a huge rock jutting out into the ocean like a slab of found sculpture. The place names also prove irresistible. In Witless Bay, I take a boat trip to see the departing puffins, catch the briefest glimpse of a minke whale and get a little seasick. (“The North Atlantic is not flat,” the boat’s captain reminds us.) But really, I just want to say I was in Witless. I stop in Goobies, Cupids and Dildo for the same reason. Dildo, for instance, is an island shaped like a small Spanish sword called a bilbo. This is one of a few likely explanations for the name. Still, this doesn’t keep visitors from giggling, according to Gerald Smith, a guide for Dildo Island Adventure Tours. “I get calls from all over the world about the name. I tell people to come see what else we’ve got. Lots of history here,” he says, glancing out at the bay. “And it’s beautiful, don’t you think?” The Traveller’s Diary describes the E.J. Sooley House in Heart’s Delight as “a good place to hang out and relax.” Hiking trails are recommended. However, with a view from my backyard of the sun setting on Trinity Bay, I opt for relaxing. The quiet can take some getting used to in Heart’s Delight, though the E.J. Sooley House helps with the adjustment. It’s like

KEN SOOLEY

the side of a mountain, staring down at a stunning but discomfiting view of the ocean and rocks, grateful to find a chain attached to the cliff face. I cling to it, wondering how I got up so high. How I ended up accidentally hiking. This is, of course, a valuable introduction to all things Newfoundland. Be prepared for anything. Actually, forget that. Don’t bother being prepared. Let yourself be wowed.

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stepping back to a simpler time. The one-story cottage has been restored so that it looks much like it did when it was built in the 1930s. The outport decor is traditional and functional, complete with a daybed by the oven, handmade dressers and washstands, and dangling light cords. The locals in Heart’s Delight are friendly, as promised. Donna Reid, who lives up the road, comes by as soon as I arrive to ask if I need anything. Then she gives me the lowdown on a few of my neighbors and some of the local activities. It turns out my timing is bad: There was one heck of a kitchen party last night. Jerry Burton, CapeRace’s property manager, lives two doors away and visits often with sightseeing tips or just to chat. Before I leave for Bonavista, he drops by one final time with a gift, a jar of moose. “Shot it myself in 2007,” he says. “Did I tell you about that?” Every story you hear in Newfoundland is an unraveling one, Cathia explained to me back at Auntie Crae’s. They start small, then grow bigger, more elaborate. That’s true of my conversations with Jerry. It occurs to me, as I’m leaving Heart’s Delight, that I already know more about him – his upcoming carpal tunnel operation, his son’s decision to attend a nearby college, how tough it’s been working “away” in Halifax – than I do about my neighbors back home. I also know how to prepare a jar of moose. No kitchen party in Bonavista either. I arrive late at the Thomas Mouland House, a 100-year-old two-story building that is, like Bonavista, immersed in a rich but bittersweet history. Thomas Mouland was one of the survivors of the Great 1914 Sealing Disaster, which saw 78 men perish

Newfoundland and Labrador Tourism, 1-800-563-6353, www.newfoundlandandlabrador.com

Fun Fact Newfoundland and Labrador is so far east that the province has its own time zone (3.5 hours west of Greenwich). For more on Newfoundland and Labrador, please see page 69.

chain gets a lot of people.” Later, Cathia, perhaps tired of my complaints about missed kitchen parties, throws me one. It feels more like a dinner party, with food, drink, music. I regale a neighbor who drops by with my elaborate opinion of just how beautiful this place he lives in is. This extrovert stuff isn’t so bad. When he finally gets a word in, he asks me if I used the men’s washroom at the Irving gas station in Clarenville on the way back from Bonavista. “There’s a picture window,” he explains. “Best view ever from a washroom.” Somehow, I’m not surprised. n www.canada.travel

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cool collected

There’s more to Canada’s contemporary art scene than images of red maple trees and windswept waters. Discover the galleries – and the people behind them – that are pushing back the boundaries. BY Mike Landry

Musée d’art contemporain de Montréal We all know that Montréal is

Art icon: Starchitect Frank Gehry’s reconception of Toronto’s Art Gallery of Ontario has art and architecture mingling harmoniously in this sculptural staircase.

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a cultural hub; the Musée d’art contemporain the hub’s hub. Canada’s oldest and largest contemporary art gallery is surrounded by theaters that house the Montréal Opera, the Montréal Symphony Orchestra and Les Grands Ballets Canadiens as well as prestigious international performers. Moody jazz or festive Brazilian drumming might provide the soundtrack as you head through the Entertainment District to the Musée. Stepping into the virgin-white-walled museum, you find yourself in an airy atrium reaching four floors high. The grandeur carries over to the high-ceilinged exhibition spaces. When MACM director Marc Mayer first visited 20 years ago, he was a young art history student at McGill University, interested in Baroque art and architecture. Lured back by exhibits attracting international attention such as Jean-Michel Basquiat’s exaggeratedly primitive, graffiti-inspired collage Notary with its haphazardly rendered skeletons and playful phrases, it wasn’t long before contemporary art became his passion. Rather than jumping on New York or London’s latest bandwagon, MACM prides itself on making idiosyncratic choices influenced by Montréal’s unique combination of French, English, North American and international culture. Housing contemporary Québec work (such as emerging-artist award winner Michel de Broin’s compelling yet impenetrable sphere sculpture made of 72 black conference chairs), the gallery embodies the spirit of

Montréal, says Mayer. “There’s something weird about this place. The exoticism of this city is one of its great strengths. And the museum reflects that.” Ashoona Family Inuit/Northern Art Studio Tucked behind an auto repair shop in Yellowknife’s Old Town area, the Ashoona Family Inuit/Northern Art Studio has no formal address. All you have to do is listen for the whine of a grinder and look for the plume of dust enveloping Joe Ashoona as he carves stone outdoors in the shadow of Pilot’s Monument Mountain. Ashoona is a fourth-generation Inuit artist. Working alongside his mother, father and cousins, he continues to stake the Ashoona claim to being Canada’s most influential Inuit art family. “It’s unique – and visitors become part of this family, perpetuating something that was started nearly half a century ago,” says Ashoona’s father, Bob Kussy. Ashoona never hesitates to let kids help him with a carving. All visitors are free to explore the volleyball court-size workspace that is crammed with crates full of musk ox hide, polar bear claws and carving materials and smells like a dentist’s office due to the bone dust. After you’ve had your fill watching the family at work, you can browse the primal bone and darkly glistening polished stone works in the display gallery. There’s a wide variety of sculptures of Inuit people, boats, masks and animals, all small enough to take home with you. www.canada.travel

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NSCADU Most Monday evenings during the school year, students and

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2009 sneak peek Beaverbrook Gallery, Fredericton Writing on the Wall Argentinian-born, Frederictonbased Nela Rio draws inspiration from Salvador Dalí’s 1957 masterpiece Santiago El Grande in Writing on the Wall. beaverbrookartgallery.org

Art Gallery of Calgary, Calgary The Rodeo and the West Donald Woodman’s photographs of rodeos in the American Southwest shine light on cowboy culture as it tries to survive in a 21stcentury world. artgallerycalgary.org

Art Gallery of Ontario, Toronto Highlights include shows featuring the German visionary and Dadaist painter Angelika Hoerle, Pre-Raphaelite founder and avantgardist William Holman Hunt and 1920s Vanity Fair photographer Edward Steichen.. ago.net

Art Gallery of Nova Scotia, Halifax East of the RoC A fascinating series of prints and drawings depicting the lives of early settlers in Atlantic Canada. artgalleryofnovascotia.ca

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art lovers line up along the Nova Scotia College of Art and Design University’s stretch of Victorian-era buildings on cobblestoned Grafton St. to visit the Anna Leonowens Gallery. Inside, the gray floors, scarred from where students have cut into them for exhibits, and the white walls, now slightly uneven from the 30 years’ worth of fresh layers of acrylic paint applied annually, speak to the history of the space. Gallery Director Tonia Di Risio has seen it all – from the artist who wrote on the walls with pig intestines to the student who lived unseen in one of the walls for a week with a bunk, hot plate and a trap door to access the washroom. On sunny days, light floods through the large street-level windows of Di Risio’s downtown gallery office. Unlike many people, she looks forward to the start of her work week – she knows there will be at least one new show by students, alumni or faculty. And Di Risio is always amazed by the works of soon-to-be stars, such as the painstakingly ornate plasma-cut oil drums of Cal Lane or the irreverent video work – examining pop subjects like latenight TV through collage – of Kelly Mark. Lane has already been featured at New York’s Museum of Arts and Design, while Mark has shown at the California Museum of Photography. Both have exhibited work across Canada and internationally. “I really feel like it’s a kind of working laboratory for the next generation of visual arts in Canada,” says former exhibitor, multimedia faculty member and video artist Jan Peacock. You have a good chance of spotting her, rain or shine, in the Monday evening lineup. Plug In ICA Walk by the Plug In ICA gallery at nighttime, and you’ll be

drawn to look through the large wall of windows facing King St. Illuminated inside the poured-cement building, with its striking red-brick façade, is an impressive array of paintings and three-dimensional works by local, national and international artists of various stages of their careers. Located in a former rubber factory, Plug In ICA is the driving force behind unassuming Winnipeg’s transformation into a hotbed of contemporary Canadian art.

“Art that makes you dig and wonder is really art that’s cooking.” A compass for alternative culture for 37 years, Plug In wowed gallery director Anthony Kiendl as a young man with controversial events like local artist Derek Brueckner’s The Nude Show (featuring artists drawing nude models, visible through the gallery’s front window) and the gallery’s focus on queer artwork. “It’s just typical Winnipeg,” says Kiendl. “You’d never expect it or see it anywhere else.” The city’s cheap warehouses attract artists. Isolated from the pressures of the international art scene, they are free to innovate and experiment. Marcel Dzama and Jon Pylypchuk, former members of the University of Manitoba’s Royal Art Lodge who first exhibited at Plug In nine years ago, now wow New York and L.A. with dark dioramas of hunting parties (Dzama) and installations of scraggly cats in fatigues (Pylypchuk). Plug In alumnus Daniel Barrow, who has just finished touring Europe, first made a name for himself here with his innovative manual form of animation. Barrow uses an overhead projector to layer and manipulate pastel-colored images of disparate characters such as a garbage man, a serial killer and Helen Keller while he narrates stories evoking the bleak Winnipeg landscape.

The Western Front Originally built by the Knights of Pythias as a lodge hall, the Western Front has become iconic in Vancouver. The old wooden building looks like it was plucked from the set of a cowboy movie – fitting, given the wild art inside. The Front helped its neighborhood evolve into a thriving arts center; the area is now home to bookstores, the ultra-hip Blim art resource centre and other DIY art spaces. Western Front Exhibitions Director Candice Hopkins was introduced to the Vancouver gallery by word of mouth. The Front, she was told, was where notions of art were torn apart and rebuilt with each exhibition. And when she first walked through the gallery doors and saw a brochure for the exhibition String Theory, featuring room-sized instruments, she got an immediate sense there was always something must-see to discover. For more than 30 years, the Front – a pioneer in the fields of digital art and music – has drawn the attention of people from across the globe, including William Burroughs and members of the band Talking Heads, who have all visited the space. World-renowned composer and performance artist Laurie Anderson even spent a week there and performed the Americaninspired musical numbers, spoken-word pieces and animated vignettes of her United States: Part II. Seminal new-media artist Hank Bull has worked with the center since 1973. He loves it so much, he even lives there. He’s experienced exhibitions involving salad bowls transformed into instruments, Willoughby Sharp’s New Society performance, featuring the artist in a cage while two pianists improvised, and a successful reimagining of the infamous 1894 attempted terrorist attack on the Greenwich Observatory. Bull says living in the Front “can be engaging, baffling and provocative. After all these years I still look at stuff and scratch my head, and that’s what I like... Art that makes you dig and wonder is really art that’s cooking.” The Power Plant Located on Toronto’s waterfront in the city’s Harbour-

front Centre arts complex, the Power Plant’s smokestack towers above the nearby high-rise condos. A functioning generating station three decades ago, it’s now a buzzing contemporary gallery with an active program of events. An estimated 12 million visitors come here each year to mingle and experience innovative art in all its forms in the long corridors and auditoriums of the funky center. The expansive main gallery retains the building’s original 9-m (30-ft) ceilings and structure beams. It’s spacious enough to accommodate almost any project an artist could dream up. At the far end of the space, a café looks out onto the waterfront, where you can sit with a steaming cup of coffee and make sense of what you’ve just seen. The gallery has made a name with exhibitions from up-and-comers. It’s a place for discoveries. Vancouver artist Geoffrey Farmer installed a field of found wooden furniture there that was slowly disassembled and burned in a woodstove. Turner Prize-winning English artist Simon Starling exhibited a stone sculpture of a human warrior-like form there after it had been submerged in Lake Ontario long enough to become covered in mussels. The gallery is so notorious internationally, current Director Gregory Burke moved from New Zealand to be a part of it. And for the past five years, he’s been making sure the Power Plant is an active prospector on the artistic frontier by commissioning new work. “With the advent of globalization in contemporary art, [the issue] is to make sure you’re not just on the receiving end of international trends in art,” says Burke. “We want to be actually having an opinion.” n

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Contemporary Art Galleries Travel essentials

Experience Montréal’s Musée d’art contemporain, presents free live music on the first Friday of every month. 185 Sainte-Catherine St. W., Montréal, QC, 514-847-6226, macm.org When the sign is out on Macdonald Rd. in Yellowknife, Northwest Territories, the Ashoona family is in at the Northern Art Studio. 867-920-4426 The Anna Leonowens Gallery at the Nova Scotia College of Art and Design puts on around125 exhibitions annually, featuring both the work of students and visiting artists and curators. 1891 Granville St., Halifax, NS, 902-494-8223, nscad.ns.ca Winnipeg’s Plug In ICA gallery is a cornerstone heritage building within the Exchange District. 286 McDermot Ave., Winnipeg, MB, 204-942-1043, plugin.org The Western Front in Vancouver also hosts concerts, poetry readings and film screenings. 303 E. 8th Ave., Vancouver, B.C., 604-876-9343, front.bc.ca

Sundays at The Power Plant feature free tours of exhibited works. 231 Queens Quay W., Toronto, ON, 416-973-4949, thepowerplant.org

Fun fact Count Andy Warhol among those with an honorary degree from the Nova Scotia College of Art and Design.

Getting here Tourisme Québec, 1-877-BONJOUR (1-877-2665687), www.bonjourquebec.com Northwest Territories Tourism, 1-800-661-0788, www.explorenwt.com Nova Scotia Tourism, 1-800-5650000, www.novascotia.com Tourism Manitoba, 1-800-6650040, www.travelmanitoba.com Tourism British Columbia, 1-800-HELLO-BC® (1-800-435-5622), hellobc.com Ontario Tourism, 1-800-ONTARIO (1-800-6682746), www.ontariotravel.net

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The great escape A journey to the top of the world just may be the ultimate adventure. By Wayne Grady | PHOTOGraphy By erik mohr

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CORNWALLIS ISLAND, HIGH IN THE CANADIAN ARCTIC, FLOATS in a bluish-gray sea surrounded by pans of early ice as our First Air flight from Montréal circles and lands in the town of Resolute, one of the northernmost communities in the world. It’s late August and there’s a bite of frost in the air, but the sun is bright and we stand outside the airport, laughing and waiting for the shuttle that will take us to our ship. For many of us, it’s our first time in the High Arctic. Cornwallis is low to the water, a wealth of rounded, treeless hills softened by weather and time. I’m drawn to walk into them, and when our shuttle stops at an ancient encampment of the Thule, the prehistoric ancestors of the Inuit people, between the airport and the shoreline, I step over the nearest gravelly rise and suddenly feel as though I’m alone in a vast but uncomplicated landscape. It’s exhilarating: There is rock, there is the immensity of sky and there is me. The Lyubov Orlova, our ice-strengthened Russian cruise ship named after the Soviet film star of the 1930s and ’40s, is anchored in Resolute’s shallow harbor. It’s leased by Cruise North Expeditions, the Inuit-owned adventure-tour company based in northern Québec’s Nunavik territory. The nine excursions like this one that Cruise North offers each summer are not cruises, we are told, they are expeditions. “We attract an adventurous crowd,” says Jason Annahatak, the first Inuit cruise leader in the history of Arctic tourism. During the off-season, Jason, tall, dark-haired and lean, studies psychology at Columbia University in New York, but for now he’s in charge of 96 passengers eager to get to know as much about the Arctic as we can in 10 short days. On our first afternoon at sea, we gather in the forward lounge, where Jason gives us a brief introduction to Inuit culture. “Ai!” he says. “Hi!” 46 www.canada.travel

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“Ai!” we repeat. “Na-kur-mük, thank you. Inuktitut,” he says, “the language of the Inuit, is polysynthetic meaning it begins with a root word and prefixes and suffixes are added until it is a very long word that expresses what would take a whole sentence in a southern language. For instance, qirsuqaq is one of our words for snow: It means ‘a hard crust of snow on top of soft snow in May.’” I ask him about the Inuit statues, piled rocks that look like human figures. “Ah, inukshuks,” he says. “Up here they have many functions. They are route markers, primarily, but they are also used for herding caribou, and they can indicate which lakes have fish in them. The root word is inuu, which means person. For instance, Inuujunga can mean either ‘I am alive’ or ‘I am a human being’ or ‘I am Inuit.’”

There is rock, there is the immensity of the sky and there is me. That, I think, is how I felt on Cornwallis Island, gazing out over the barren but inviting landscape: I am alive, I am a human being. “This is the most sacred spot in the Arctic,” we’re told. It’s 11 p.m., and with 24 hours of daylight the sky is cloudy but twilit. A light snow is falling. George Hobson, who is making his 250th trip to the Arctic and is our official Arctic historian, is standing before five grave markers on the rim of Beechey Island, our first stop after leaving Resolute. We’ve gathered in respectful silence as George, his white hair stirred by the breeze, relates the tragedy of the Franklin Expedition. Three of the graves belong to members of Franklin’s crew, buried here in 1845, two years beforeFranklin

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More Arctic adventures Northwinds Arctic’s founder and guide, Matty McNair, leads 6-person, 60-day skiing treks to the North Pole. You’ll be in safe hands – she guided the first all-women’s expedition to the North Pole in 1997. 1-867-979-0551, northwinds-arctic.com

Excursions with Inuksuk Adventures include summer seal watching on Frobisher Bay, whale spotting along the floe edge during the spring melt and exploratory trips to nearby national parks. 1-867-979-2113, inuksukadventures.com

Neil Hartling, owner and outdoor guide of Whitehorse-based Nahanni River Adventures, is as passionate about canoeing now as he was 25 years ago when he first propelled down Yukon’s rushing rivers. While his canoeing trips require some level of expertise, even beginners can experience rafting and kayaking. 1-866-668-3180, nahanni.com

and the rest of his men disappeared into the mists of time while attempting to map the Northwest Passage. The fourth grave is that of a seamen who had come to find them. The fifth is a mystery – unrecorded, unmarked. There is a solemn, cathedral-like quality to this place, intensified by the 90-m (300-ft) cliffs overlooking the narrow strip of shoreline. George was part of the team that discovered these graves some 20 years ago. “It took two of us two days to dig down through the permafrost,” he says. “We didn’t know what we would see. We certainly didn’t expect to find perfectly preserved bodies, hair, skin, clothing, everything just as it must have been the day they were buried.” Little else has changed on Beechey, it seems. Tom Frisch, the expedition geologist, explains that the island is made of Silurian limestone that is over 400 million years old, much of which has flaked off from the cliffs to form loose gravel. Time. I look again at the graves: The Arctic is all about time. Like Franklin’s crew, we who have signed on with Cruise North are on a voyage of discovery. We will follow the east coast of Baffin Island south to Ungava Bay, ending at Kuujjuaq, the capital of Nunavik, the Inuit territory that occupies most of northern Québec. In the process, we pass through perhaps the most rugged and fascinating landscape on Earth, with a staff of experts on board to help interpret what we see. Conditions in the Arctic are unpredictable and ever-changing, and shore visits like the one on Beechey Island are a bonus, completely dependent on the weather. “We’ll start every morning with Plan A,” says Jason, “but by noon we could be into Plan Z.” Shore trips typically last two or three hours, involve short, choppy Zodiac rides from the ship and focus on plants, animals and geology. The Arctic has plenty of all three. The region’s high barren cliffs, gravel www.canada.travel

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High Arctic Beechey Island

Resolute

Baffin Sea

Nanisivik

Pond Inlet

Isabella Bay

Monumental Island Akpatok Island

Hudson Bay

Travel essentials

Michael Richardson, wearing his yellow Cruise North jacket and a pair of hiking boots, points out an amazing variety of minuscule but abundant plant life, including pixie cup and reindeer lichens (important foods for local herbivores), and white-tufted cotton grass, which is actually a sedge. Nothing you could use to make a spar or build a house – the 1,200-yearold Thule structures we saw outside Resolute used whale ribs for roof beams – but enough to allow Arctic hares to thrive and grow to more than 50 pounds. The High Arctic is also home to a vast array of birds, a minority of which, over time, have adapted to its extreme climate. The rest engage

fact, the competition is to see who can refrain from laughing the longest.” Back on board, we learn that the federal government has just declared Isabella Bay, a refuge for bowhead whales, a National Wildlife Area, and after a day-long cruise with Baffin Island a mere hazy line on our starboard horizon, we are the first ship to enter its protected waters. Endangered by overhunting and climate change, bowheads are among the largest of the whale family, weighing in at 100 tons. Marie-Josée Desbarats, our sprightly Québecoise marine biologist, tells us that the eastern bowhead population has been reduced to about 7,000. Unfortunately, none of them is in evidence, and so we circle back and head south to Monumental and Akpatok Islands, in Hudson Strait just north of Ungava Bay. Here, our luck is better. Off Monumental Island a huge herd of walrus churn the water around our Zodiacs, rearing their comically whiskered heads and tusks to get a look at the brightly clad interlopers. And on the narrow shore of Akpatok Island, we come across seven polar bears pacing the gravel beach beneath soaring cliffs that provide nesting sites for more than 100,000 breeding pairs of thick-billed murres. Each murre has returned from its annual migration to precisely the same spot on the same ledge that it inhabited the year before. Like us, many of them are now preparing for their long flight to their wintering grounds in the south. The next morning, after a 45-minute ferry in the Zodiacs, we land at Kuujjuaq. The fringe of black spruce that rings the horizon seems strange to me – this is the first time I’ve been at the tree line in days. Feeling like a hardened Arctic explorer, I even buy a hand-knitted toque at one of Kuujjuaq’s two gift shops as a souvenir before heading to the airport. Long after my time in the Arctic is over, the adventure will continue to keep me warm. n

“We’ll start every morning with Plan A,” says Jason, “but by noon we could be into Plan Z.”

in annual migration. As we leave Admiralty Inlet on day three and head toward Bylot Island and Pond Inlet, the ship is accompanied by innumerable northern fulmars – stout gray gull-like birds with tubular beaks. They fly momentarily alongside us at eye level and then veer off on some fishfinding mission, their curiosity satisfied. Kittiwakes and glaucous gulls also abound. Our official birder, Michael Shepard, whose enthusiasm for bird lore knows no bounds, keeps a daily tally that includes phalaropes, black guillemots, thick-billed murres. On day four, a pair of redpolls land on the ship’s rigging. Michael, raising his ever-present binoculars to his eyes, tells of another Arctic mystery, as compelling in its way as that of the fate of John Franklin. It involves Thayer’s gulls, grayish birds that colonize Devon Island in the summer and migrate to the West Coast, but little is known of how they get there. On day five we stop at Pond Inlet, an Inuit community across a narrow channel from Bylot Island that was once a major campsite for both Dorset and Thule hunters. It now has a population of 1,300, about half of whom are under the age of 15. School is just out and the unpaved streets are alive with laughing children. At the Co-op, we find a craft gallery, a post office and the grocery store, where we are afforded a glimpse of what it’s like to live where everything is brought in by plane: Three cobs of corn cost $3.99, and a quart of milk is $7. At the community center, a local theater troupe puts on a play depicting traditional Inuit activities. Dressed in finely embroidered felt and sealskin, the actors demonstrate Inuit games and hunting practices, and two of the women give a performance of throat singing. “The sounds they make are imitating the sounds of nature,” Jason tells us later. “It is a social act, mostly done for fun, and often ends in laughter. In

shoals and rock-strewn beaches are breathtakingly, hauntingly beautiful. As we cross Lancaster Sound and enter Admiralty Inlet, on the northern tip of Baffin Island, the landscape we watch from the rails surrounding the observation deck raw Canadian Shield, granite and gneiss heaved up from the Earth’s molten core more than 1.7 billion years ago. It still looks fresh, as though only recently cooled. The mouth of the inlet is thick with ice floes, and the ship weaves its way through with care. Here, 20 degrees above the tree line, you have to go ashore and get down on your knees to see vegetation. But when we do, during our 12-hour refueling stop at Nanisivik, there is a wild profusion of it. The expedition’s resident botanist,

Kuujjuaq

Cruise North runs expeditions along the eastern shores of Labrador and throughout the Arctic. 1-866-CNE-3220 (263-3220), cruisenorthexpeditions.com

Major Airport: Iqaluit International Airport (YFB) Nunavut Tourism, 1-866-NUNAVUT (1-866-6862888), www.nunavuttourism.com Bonavista Lighthouse Bonavista

Trinity

Getting here First Air operates flights daily from Montréal to Kuujjuaq, the capital of Nunavik, in northern Québec. 1-800-267-1247, firstair.ca Kuujjuaq, 819-964-2943, nvkuujjuaq.ca/en/index.htm

Elliston

Fun fact Look for inukshuks, the man-made stone landmarks that serve as navigation markers throughout the Arctic. The inukshuk was adopted as the Ocean emblem of the 2010 WinterAtlantic Games. Heart's Delight

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Ferryland Cape St. Mary's

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Tastemakers New-world Chardonnay, tender elk, goatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s cheese, heirloom tomatoes ripened in the sun: We trace four iconic Ontario specialties from farm to plate. by Valerie Howes | photography by john cullen

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the grape

Farm My friend Kendra and I brace ourselves for a Thelma and Louise

moment as we drive up the steep bridge over the Bay of Quinte toward a midair spot where it seems to disappear. Only at the last second does the descending half of the road materialize, leading us to Prince Edward County’s Taste Trail – a route dotted by organic farms, vineyards and artisanal food outlets. Road signs to Norman Hardie’s winery lead us to a boxy corrugated-steel structure, where tastings take place at a plain counter by horizontal fermentation tanks. “We don’t sell bottle openers, T-shirts and glasses here,” says Hardie’s partner Ben Simmons, sloshing 2006 Chardonnay into our glasses. “Just the wine.” He sets a metal bucket at our feet. “To spit.” We sample. Vanilla, butter, nutmeg, citrus and oak do some crazy-clever dance steps in our mouths. The spit bucket stays empty. Prince Edward County, with its clay-and-limestone soil, has some of the best matches in the world for Chardonnay and Pinot. Although Burgundian styles and techniques are used at Norman Hardie’s, their spare, steely wines have their own character. “We’re not trying to make our ruby into a diamond,” says Simmons. “We’re polishing the gem we have.” Before winter, the vintners crawl through the vines, building knee-high mounds of earth around the plants’ low branches to protect buds from freezing. During cold snaps, they might be out at 4 a.m. lighting hay bales near the vines to keep temperatures up. The region’s cooler climate means the grapes can stay on the vine long enough to achieve flavor ripeness at lower alcohol levels. In warmer regions, sugar ripeness comes first, and

A sous-chef arrives with whites and directs me to the washroom to get changed – not standard practice for diners here. Then, Executive Chef Anthony Walsh shows me how to fillet a Lake Erie yellow perch. I ease the knife between skin and fish flesh, my fingertips tucked safely beneath my knuckles. We dress the perch with olive oil, lemon zest and thyme, then slip it into the oven at a gentle 150°F to bring out the delicate flavors. Meanwhile, we get to work on a creamy cauliflower purée, blanched rainbow chard batons and a boozy reduction of laurel leaves, crème fraîche, shallots and 2006 NH Chardonnay. At the kitchen counter, Walsh, Predhomme and I sit before an elaborate arrangement of the velvety ingredients we just prepared, topped decadently with whitefish caviar. Subtle flavors pop as we finish off the 2006. “Norman will come in at the oddest hours,” muses Walsh, looking out the window. “Sometimes he’ll turn up at midnight.” “We have to respect the farmers’ schedules,” explains Predhomme. “We have to be organic with them.”

the tomato

Farm To get to Vicki’s Veggies we drive past plum, cherry and apple trees, their branches heavy with ripe fruit; villages lined with galleries, artisanal chocolate shops and chef-owned restaurants; freshwater dunes, with pristine white-sand beaches dotted with young families making sandcastles. “How come everyone doesn’t know about this place?” I ask Kendra. We meet Vicki Emlaw and her husband, Tim Noxon, owners of Prince

“When you get to know these people on first-name terms, you can create passion for their products among diners.” wines can end up soft, round and flabby if vintners hold off picking. Come harvest time, volunteer pickers are lured with spectacular cookouts. Last year, that meant juicy chicken, tricolored beets, roast potatoes and an heirloom tomato salad put together by Pascal Ribeau of upscale restaurant Céléstin. “People wait months to eat at his Toronto place,” says Simmons. Formerly a sommelier at Toronto’s Four Seasons, Hardie visits Ontario restaurants year-round to introduce old friends to his new wines. “I’m more suited to farmwork,” says Simmons. He lays down his glass and chuckles. “You need somebody who can drive a tractor without answering his cell phone and knocking down the vines.” Plate Early diners sit framed by large windows, candlelight casting their silhouettes against a dusk sky. From Canoe, the upscale restaurant atop the 54-floor-high Dominion Bank Tower, you get unparalleled views of Toronto’s cityscape. Chopping sounds and chatter build up slowly in the back of house, like an orchestra tuning up before a recital. “Norman Hardie is salt of the earth,” says sommelier Will Predhomme, pouring a glass of familiar, straw-colored 2006 Chardonnay. “When you get to know these people on first-name terms, you can create passion for their wines among diners.”

Edward County’s organic farming enterprise Vicki’s Veggies, just to the side of their flower patch – a popular spot with bumblebees and swallowtail butterflies. We all wander past the old farmhouse down to the barn, where hundreds of garlic strings hang like blanched bats from the rafters. Noxon leads us on to the hothouses and fields. One hundred and sixty varieties of heirloom tomatoes grow there – tomatoes called Blondkopfchen, Ghost Cherry, Lollipop, Eros and White Rabbit. Some are shaped like sausages, some ribbed like pumpkins, some striped like zebras. Tomatoes are the stars here, but other veggies shine in supporting roles. We brush earth off deep-purple carrots and crunch into their sweetness while surveying the crops: hand-weeded, fertilized with compost and grown in rotation so the soil can rest. “The only spray we use here is garlic – a natural pesticide,” says Noxon. Bugs hate the taste; mice and deer, the smell. “Watch Sage!” calls Vicki from the roadside stand. A blonde tot with a serious expression appears from the flower patch and extends her arms skywards. Noxon settles his daughter on her rope swing. At the stand, I browse seeds, raw honey and cut flowers while Emlaw writes on the board about a Labor Day Weekend tomato-tasting event. “It’s a good thing we get Sage back from daycare by dinnertime,” she says, chalk dust flying, “or else we might never stop.”

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Blueberry and goat cheese tart Sweet Pastry • 10 oz butter   • 1/2 cup sugar • 1 cup flour  • 2 eggs  1. In electric mixer, using paddle attachment, cream the butter and sugar together. 2. Add eggs one at a time. 3. Sift flour, adding gradually until  just incorporated. 4. Place in fridge for 1 hour. 5. Roll mixture on a lightly floured surface to 1/8 inch thick and line tart shell.

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6. Bake pastry  at 325° F. for approximately 15 minutes, or until golden brown.  Blueberry Tart Filling • 5 oz Ontario blueberries • 2 oz fresh goat cheese (in our case, Monforte’s Chèvre)   • 3–5 oz simple syrup (50/50 sugar and water)   • 1/3 oz (1/2 tsp) Genuvisco (“Iota”) carrageenan  *   1. Bring simple syrup to a boil, add blueberries and transfer to blender. Purée until smooth. 2. Add goat cheese and blend until  incorporated. 3. Weigh carageenan and add to mix; blend until fully incorporated. 4. To serve, bring mix to a boil in a small saucepan, and pour or ladle into baked, unmolded tart shells. The mix will set at room temperature.

Note: Carrageenan is a refined seaweed product. There are a great number of different carrageenan products on the market and all have different  properties, so it’s essential to use the one specified for this recipe. U.S. suppliers of Genuvisco carrageenan include Le Sanctuaire (le-sanctuaire. com), Terra Spice (terraspicecompany.com) and Will Powder (willpowder.net).

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Plate There’s an art to choosing the perfect tomato. In the sumptuous bar area of Toronto’s Madeline’s, where patterned velvet wallpapers in three different colors swank up the walls, Canadian culinary icon Chef Susur Lee talks me through a market trip with an apprentice. ‘“Pick a tomato for me,’ I say... ‘This is no good, why do you pick it?’” A flash of distaste crosses chef Lee’s face at the hypothetical trainee’s hypothetical selection. He’ll pick one out himself, feeling its temperature and checking for condensation. “It needs never to have been in the fridge, it must be fresh-picked... it should have the smell of summer.” Chefs get right in before planting season and request what they fantasize about on plates. Executive chef Ted Corrado of C5 (the crystal-inspired, jutting glass restaurant atop Toronto’s Royal Ontario Museum) shows me tomatoes with skins like watermelons – just delivered by his farmer. “I almost feel like I’m cheating on him if I go somewhere else.” “Vicki and Tim supply the most amazing tomatoes,” says Jamie Kennedy. The curly-haired TV chef – and owner of Jamie Kennedy at the Gardiner and Jamie Kennedy Wine Bar in Toronto – lives near the couple on his own farm in Prince Edward County. “They’re totally organic, and they’re doing everything in the hardest possible way.”

A flume of vapor escapes from the pie – cinnamon and clove aromas reach the table before the dish itself. At Kennedy’s new scaled-down café, Gilead, I sit by a pale yellow wall lined with jars of pickles and preserves and sample “A Celebration of Tomatoes.” A simple appetizer, it lets each heirloom variety sing its own song. Shallots, red-wine vinegar, olive oil, basil, salt and pepper combine in a clean, fresh vinaigrette drizzled over a mosaic of red, yellow, pink, green and white tomatoes. On the side: toasted Red Fife sourdough bread spread with a sweet paste of San Marzano tomatoes. Chef Lee would approve – it tastes like summer.

elk

Farm Three hundred soft brown eyes follow us intently as we approach the field at Elk Ranch with a bucket of grain. Rancher Thom Van Eeghen warns my 13-year-old son Sean, in a soft New Zealand accent, to avoid one of his elk in particular. “Raspberry Pie is a bit unpredictable,” he explains. “Her mother abandoned her, so we hand-raised and bottle-fed her, away from the others.” “Do they all have names?” I ask. Van Eeghen laughs. “It’s the last time any of our elk will have a name,” he says. “We won’t be sending this one down the path.” (He gestures with his thumb, as if indicating the slaughterhouse.) “My kids would never have it.” Back at the farmhouse, in a sunny gazebo entwined with grape vines, Van Eeghen and his Ontario-born wife, Fay Armitage, describe the activities of each season while Sean takes off with my camera to snap the elk. Spring is calving time, so the cows need extra feed and salt for essential minerals. Markets keep the couple and their eldest kids busy in summer, and come late August they send 50 adult elk down the path – they’re at their fattest then. The bulls herald breeding time with bugling in fall. “I apologized about the noise to the neighbors in our first year,” says Armitage. “But they said it was just wonderful.” When Sean returns, he shows us his photos: dozens of a black-and-white kitten playing with the family’s dopey dog – the elk small as ants in the background. Van Eeghen and Armitage call a taxi, and just 20 minutes later we’re back at our downtown hotel, chewing on tasty, spiced elk jerky... trying not to think about those eyes. Plate Once a year, in a chandeliered ballroom at the Fairmont Château

Laurier hotel, the waltzing feet of brides and grooms clear the floor for the stomping boots of farmers and their professional partners: local chefs. Savour Ottawa, a local-food organization, established Ottawa Farmer-Chef Meet and Greet: Speed Dating for Chefs so producers and cooks could connect. Fairmont Executive Chef Geoffrey Morden already has a commitment from Van Eeghen – exclusive rights to his tenderloin cuts. Marc Lepine, www.canada.travel

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goat cheese

Farm Late summer, I’m in Toronto for the annual Picnic at the Brick

Works, where more than 60 Ontario producers and chefs serve summery treats together: pig on a spit, crunchy toffee apples speared with twigs, heady peach ice cream. It’s like the blowout alfresco spreads you read about in novels such as Little Women and Huckleberry Finn. On first impressions, Stratford cheesemaker Ruth Klahsen – partnered today with Toronto caterers Chez Vous and serving up BLT profiteroles – also seems straight out of a children’s classic: She’d be the soft-eyed, rosycheeked maternal type who slips extra ginger beer into the hamper before the kiddies freewheel to the lake. But she gets feisty when it comes to her craft. “Which of your cheeses do you like best?” “They all piss me off equally if they don’t turn out right.”

An astringent lemon-balm salad tossed with fresh and poached blueberries gives extra tang. Klahsen learned basic cheesemaking in Vermont, then honed her skills through trial and error. “In the first year, I threw out $167,000 worth of cheese,” she says. The Amish shepherds she works with do things the good old-fashioned way – hand-milking sheep, refrigerating vats with pond ice. Formerly a chef, Klahsen has an edge over the competition. “I make yogurt, crème fraîche, halloumi... I’m always thinking about what a cheese is like to cook with.” With great contacts in Toronto kitchens, selling has been straightforward – profits almost doubled in 2008. “Luckily I can afford to pay my farmers better than anyone else.” Table Sous-chef Anthony Davis, of Perigee – a low-key restaurant in Toron-

to’s Distillery District – first met Klahsen at Terroir. The annual gastronomic event, features sampling and seminars on everything from Southern Ontario cuisine to cooking a whole hog. Many great connections happen there. Monforte goat cheese shines at Perigee in a dessert created by Davis. The blueberry and goat cheese tart is assembled in what looks like an oversized aquarium – glass walls flank the kitchen in the center of the dining room. This would be no place for Gordon Ramsay, but Executive Chef Christopher Brown doesn’t condone throwing hissy fits or knives. Observing his 56 www.canada.travel

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inside guide

Ottawa

Kingston

Prince Edward County Toronto

Travel tips

Lake Ontario

Stratford

From a distance, you can spot the tall buildings of Canadian cities emerging from areas of natural beauty: think Vancouver

Travel essentials

Eat Canoe is the place to experience inspired regional Canadian cuisine. 66 Wellington St. W., Toronto, 416-364-0054, oliverbonacini.com Tucked up an alleyway off King St. East, Gilead is worth the hunt. 4 Gilead Pl., Toronto, 647-288-0680, www.gileadcafe.ca

with its ocean and mountainside location, Toronto surrounded by lakes, Calgary at the foot of the Rockies and Montréal on the

Le Méridien King Edward Hotel Chef Daniel Schick is a slow-food proponent. 37 King St. E., Toronto, 416-863-9700, starwoodhotels.com/lemeridien

banks of the St. Lawrence River. You can flit between shopping and hiking, galleries and gullies, and spectacles in theaters and in nature. In fine urban restaurants, the fish on your plate might have been caught that morning; the vegetables picked at a

Fairmont Château Laurier prides itself on strong partnerships with local farmers. 1 Rideau St., Ottawa, 866-540-4410, fairmont.com/laurier

Perigee showcases the talents of brothers, Chef Christopher Brown and Sommelier Michael Brown. 55 Mill St., The Distillery Historic District Cannery Building, Toronto, 416-364-1397, perigeerestaurant.com

Experience Visit Norman Hardie Winery and Vineyard for tastings and tours – or even to help with the harvest. 1152 Greer Rd., Wellington, 613-399-5297, normanhardie.com

In the Byward Market neighborhood, Murray Street serves upscale pub grub in a cozy setting. 110 Murray St., Ottawa, 613-562-7244, murraystreet.ca

From cooking lessons to seedling sales, there’s always something going on at Vicki’s Veggies. 81 Morrison Point Rd., RR #2, Milford, 613-476-7241, vickisveggies.com

Sleep Lodge among the vines at the Inn at Huff Estates and Winery. 2274 County Rd. #1, Bloomfield, 613-393-1414, huffestates.ca

Just outside Ottawa, Elk Ranch is a great place to stock up on frozen elk cuts and charcuterie. 1271 Old Carp Rd., Kanata, 613-599-0772, elkranch.com

Merrill Inn offers inspired County cuisine by Chef Michael Sullivan. 343 Main St. E., Picton, 866-567-5969, merrillinn.com

Meet Ruth Klahsen at the Farmers’ Market at Brick Works. 550 Bayview Ave., Toronto, 416-596-1495, evergreen.ca

calm, swift team at work is a hypnotic experience. A super-thin buttery crust filled with blueberry and fresh goat’s cheese purée is heaped with whole fresh blueberries for good measure. Sweet vanilla ice cream, tempered by a surprising bay leaf, in turn balances the tartness of the filling. On the side, an astringent lemon-balm salad tossed with fresh and poached blueberries gives extra tang. The firm bite of the fresh fruits mingled with the syrupy sweetness of the poached ones makes you feel like you can have your cake and eat it. Klahsen’s creamy chèvre, blended with Chardonnay vinegar, lemon balm and sugar, is dolloped alongside the tart as a sharp yet cloudy sidekick. After finishing every last smear, I’m tempted to bang on the kitchen’s glass wall and mouth I love you. n

farm a short drive away. Those who like to indulge can head to a luxury resort tucked away in the mountains or by a peaceful shore. Adventurous types can experience Canada through upclose and hands-on experiences. Unique thrills are to be had polar bear spotting in the Arctic, getting up close to drifting icebergs in Newfoundland and Labrador, feeding those creative juices in a contemporary art gallery, ordering coffee in French on a terrace in Québec City... so many reasons to explore!

CANADIAN TOURISM COMMISSION

twice named Ottawa Chef of the Year by the Canadian Culinary Federation, is the dutiful type: “It doesn’t help the farmer unless we use tough cuts.” At his new restaurant, Atelier, the Luck-of-the-Draw course causes a stir at tables as its components – elk meat, sauce, potatoes and veg – are served on four different plates, one set before each diner. Everyone mixes and matches, kind of like gastronomical swinging. At Murray Street, a cozy new resto-pub that has quickly become the after-hours spot for Ottawa chefs, you can sample elk salami and kielbasa year-round at the charcuterie bar. But on a chilly winter’s day, try chefowner Steve Mitton’s elk tourtière. A flume of vapor escapes from the pie as the server carries it over – cinnamon and clove aromas reach the table before the dish itself. As I cut into extra-short buttery pastry, the hearty filling slumps out: lean yet succulent elk meat, roasted garlic, and smoked mushrooms and decadent, oozing, melted fat. Try this and you’ll never even look at another tart again.

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If you’re arriving in Calgary at night, book yourself a west-facing room on the highest floor of your hotel and set your alarm for sunrise when you get there. Throw open the curtains and you’ll catch the dawn’s first rays of sunlight bathing the snowcapped Rocky Mountains in gorgeous soft oranges and pinks. If you visit in summer, you can head south to Waterton Lakes National Park, where the fresh scents of pine and spruce clear your pipes as you venture up a steep valley, past roaring waterfalls and even through rock tunnels, toward a hidden reservoir called Crypt Lake. In winter, head northwest of Calgary to one of several vast ski resorts around Banff and Lake Louise – perfect places to carve your initials in fresh, unpacked powder. If you prefer the hustle and bustle of civilization, continue northeast from there to “Festival City” – Edmonton – where you can cheer with the crowd as marathon skaters zip by in Hawrelak Park or holler “Encore!” after a brilliant acoustic show.

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Vancouver

victoriacyclingfestival.com

Whistler Film Festival Hobnob with cinephiles in the mountains. Whistler, Dec. 2009 whistlerfilmfestival.com

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1026 Granville St., Vancouver, 604-678-1049, sanafir.ca

! Sleep Just a short ferry ride! from Vancouver, the Painted Boat Resort Spa and Marina on the Sunshine Coast is the province’s newest luxury destination. Villas are nestled in the coastal wilderness among Arbutus trees and Douglas firs. Salt-fresh air drifts in from the Pacific Ocean. The 31 villas come equipped with granite countertops, stone fireplaces, soaker tubs and private balconies with propane barbecues; you also have access to the property’s pool, hot tub and spa. Hungry? Meander down to the marina to nosh on dishes like Queen Charlotte halibut with a cucumber potato salad, baby shoots and roast pepper coulis at The Restaurant at the Painted Boat.

12849 Lagoon Rd, Madeira Park, 604-883-2456 paintedboat.com

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Moraine Lake, Banff National Park

banfflakelouise.com

Eat When it was built in 1896, The Ranche – a Queen Anne-style ranch house with a large wraparound porch surrounded by flowering perennial gardens and boasting a private tennis court – represented the height of country luxury. Now a part of Fish Creek Provincial Park, The Ranche has been revived as a home for Rocky Mountain cuisine. Delicacies such as northern caribou medallions, flank steak from ranch-raised elk and pheasant breast make up an entrée menu that’s become so popular that the chefs were prompted to release their own cookbook, Simple Treasures. Herbed gnocchi with cherry tomatoes and pecorino is one of the rich and decadent vegetarian options.

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WinterStart Festival Catch the ski races or kick back and soak up the view on a gondola ride. Banff and Lake Louise, Nov. 2009

Experience ! The blades of your helicopter whir as you make your way over the dramatic Selkirks to Bobbie Burns Lodge, where you’ll begin your lodge-tolodge heli-hiking experience with Canadian Mountain Holidays. By day you may be whisked up to hike airy ridges alongside turquoise lakes and glaciers that crackle in the warmth of the sun. You can also make your way along the new via ferrata: an alpine route with fixed cables, bridges and ladders that is sure to get your adrenaline flowing. A couple of days later, when you switch to the Bugaboos Lodge, its mini-museum of photos, maps and natural history exhibits will get you pumped for more hiking in the strikingly beautiful Bugaboos mountain range.

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canmorefolkfestival.com

1-800-661-0252, canadianmountainholidays.com

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Canmore Folk Festival This unplugged series calls itself “the summer camp for musicians.” Canmore, Aug. 1–3, 2009

Getting here Major Airports: Vancouver International Airport (YVR) yvr.ca, Victoria International Airport (YYJ) victoriaairport.com Cab Fare: $23– $26 from YVR to ! Vancouver city center; $35–$40 from YYJ to Victoria city center For More Info: 1-800-HELLO-BC® (1-800-435-5622), hellobc.com

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Capital Exhibition This summer celebration has everything from circus shows to wine tastings. Edmonton, July 17–26, 2009

The ski-friendly peaks of the North Shore mountains stand regally across Burrard Inlet, so you can get a rush on the slopes by day, then head back to the city for a unique dining experience in the evening. Let the sizzling of seafood on a heated slab of lava rock whet your appetite, or take your spot at a communal barbecue grill table, ! where you’ll likely end up getting to know your fellow diners – and maybe getting insider tips on little-known spots to visit and local activities to try next. The city’s already gearing up for The 2010 Winter Games: Get into the spirit now by walking with Vancouverites at nightfall in a torchlight parade. Just a short ferry ride away is Vancouver Island, where whale watching and even storm watching in Tofino connect you dramatically with nature and the elements. Another option? From Vancouver, head inland to breathe in the clean mountain air as you hike or snowshoe in the Okanagan or Kootenay regions – a deeply relaxing way to round off your adventures.

Eat Arabic for “meeting place,” Sanafir, which blends North African and West Coast cuisine, has become a foodie hotspot in the burgeoning culinary scene of Vancouver. Plush Moroccan-inspired daybeds line the second floor of the restaurant, which offers a view of the bustling main floor and the chance to scope out scores of paintings on papyrus hanging from the 9.75-m (32-ft) ceilings. The dining theme here is “tapas trio.” Opt for plates of grilled tikkala masala-rubbed albacore with curried potatoes and Okanagan chutney, or an Asian-influenced steamed prawn gyoza with ginger and a ponzu dipping sauce. And no need to wait until New Year’s: Pop open a bottle of bubbly from the extensive champagne list.

calgarystampede.com

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Times Colonist Cycling Festival Three days of bike racing in British Columbia’s capital. Victoria, Sept. 2009

british columbia

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Vancouver

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Celebration of Light The city becomes fireworks central during this international competition. Vancouver, July 22–Aug. 1, 2009

Key events Calgary Stampede The world’s best rodeo athletes go head to head in a cowboy bonanza. Calgary, July 3–13, 2009 w

sunpeaksresort.com

Canadian tourism commission

Key events Sun Peaks Icewine Festival Clink glasses to late-harvest wines and icewines in an alpine village setting. Kamloops, Jan. 12–17, 2009

Canadian tourism commission

Victoria!

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alberta

Fish Creek Provincial Park, 403-225-3939 crmr.com/theranche

! Sleep ! Guests at Mount Engadine Lodge – set among the beautiful peaks of the Rocky Mountains in the Kananaskis region – recline in wooden Adirondack chairs looking across Moose Meadows, home to a wide array of the area’s wildlife. (Make as little noise as possible if you head down there, and you might observe coyotes, bald eagles, moose, elk, deer and beavers.) This retreat – awarded a spot on the 2008 National Geographic Traveler’s Choice Stay List – puts travelers in touch with nature. In winter, over 100 km (62 mi) of cross-country ski trails are easily accessible from the lodge, and in summer you can explore alpine lakes and picnic among abundant wildflowers on hikes that start right from your doorstep.

Experience Alberta’s Badlands are all about discovery. More than 100 years ago, J.B. Tyrrell unearthed the skull of what was later dubbed the Albertosaurus – the province’s first dinosaur, comparable to the Tyrannosaurus rex. Today, you can view this legendary lizard in Drumheller at the Royal Tyrrell Museum, alongside exhibits like Great Minds Fresh Finds, where the newest fossil discoveries – such as a 4.5-m-long (15-ft) sauropod leg – are on display. Most of these bones were discovered in Dinosaur Provincial Park, two hours south on sandy plains, where some 150 complete dinosaur skeletons have been dug up over the years. There, guided hikes to fossil sites and dinosaur bone beds will put you in the paleontologist’s shoes.

Canmore, 403-678-4080, mountengadine.com

Badlands, 1-866-823-8100, canadianbadlands.com

! Getting here Major Airports: Calgary International Airport (YYC) calgaryairport.com, Edmonton International Airport (YEG) flyeia.com Cab Fare: $27–$30 from YYC to Calgary city center; $35 from YEG to Edmonton city center For More Info: 1-800-ALBERTA (1-800-252-3782), ! www.travelalberta.com !

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Saskatoon Regina

windscapekitefestival.ca

RCMP Sunset Ceremonies Every Tuesday, cadets dressed in scarlet tunics perform a full military-drill display. Regina, July–Aug. 2009 rcmp-grc.gc.ca/depot/visit/sunset_e.htm

Shakespeare on the Saskatchewan The 25th anniversary kicks off with A Midsummer Night’s Dream. Saskatoon, July–Aug. 2009 shakespeareonthesaskatchewan.com

Canadian Challenge Dog Race Cheer on the competitors in this 600-km (373-mi) race. Prince Albert, Feb. 2010 canadianchallenge.com

Key events Festival des Voyageurs The French Quarter celebrates its roots with games, feasts and music. Winnipeg, Feb. 2010

Saskatoon Jazz Festival

saskatchewan

festivalvoyageur.mb.ca

230 21st St. E, Saskatoon, 306-373-7779 trufflesbistro.googlepages.com

243 21st St. E., Saskatoon, 306-244-6141 hotelsenator.ca

18 Main St. N., Moose Jaw, 306-693-5261 tunnelsofmoosejaw.com

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cnuf.ca

Framed between two powerful rivers, the Assiniboine and the mighty Red, Winnipeg’s historic meeting place, The Forks, is crammed with collectors’ antiques, handmade jewelry and one-of-a-kind aboriginal art. Ten blocks away, the Royal Winnipeg Ballet – Canada’s premier dance company – opens its doors around 7 p.m. for audiences to enjoy a glass of Pinot before being wowed by cutting-edge choreographies such as the acrobatic Extreme Ballet series. Inspired by such passion, adventurous travelers might venture 1,000 km (620 mi) north to the village of Churchill, accessible only by plane or train, to observe polar bears on the outskirts of town and belugas on Hudson Bay. When the leaves change color in Manitoba, city slickers head to the country to join communities across the province for home-cooked meals – think a month-long Thanksgiving celebration. The century-old grassroots tradition of the Fall Supper sees local ingredients – corn, pumpkins, berries of all descriptions – transformed into regional delicacies, and everyone’s invited.

Churchill

Eat Chef Lorna Murdoch of Fusion Grill transforms the unpretentious pierogi – a boiled dumpling that is a comfort-food staple in Eastern Europe – by preparing it with creamy Yukon Gold potatoes, white truffle oil, savory duck sausage and walnut cream sauce, making the humble “haute.” Fusion lives up to its name by fusing not only types of cuisine, but personal tastes as well: Elaborate meat dishes – like the slow-roasted Manitoba bison back ribs with spicy whiskey glaze and garlic “smashed” potatoes – are placed side by side with vegetarian specialties such as the vegan Napoleon, served with black-bean cakes, corn tostadas, tomatillo salsa, layers of avocado emulsion and strawberry port sauce.

Sleep ! Place Louis Riel Suite Hotel in downtown Winnipeg is a heritage time capsule dressed in the lush, abundant trimmings of a roomy boutique hotel. Named after the founder of Manitoba and leader of the Métis people of western Canada, it houses an expansive collection of aboriginal art, from brilliant watercolors depicting the commanding Red River (a stone’s throw from the hotel’s front steps) to pencil sketches of mighty northern creatures such as the bison and polar bear. In keeping with the frontier motif, the hotel features a self-sustaining “green rooftop” patio that guests can amble across for some fresh air or to take in views of the architecturally rich city, otherwise known as “Chicago of the North.”

Winnipeg, 204-489-6963, fusiongrill.mb.ca

Winnipeg, 204-947-6961, placelouisriel.com

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Getting here Major Airports: Saskatoon International Airport (YXE) yxe.ca, Regina International Airport (YQR) yqr.ca Cab Fare: $15–$20 from YXE to Saskatoon ! city center,; $10 from YQR to Regina city center For More Info: 1-877-237-2273, www.sasktourism.com

National Ukrainian Festival Early settlers are feted with a parade and a traditional Ukrainian wedding. Dauphin, July 31–Aug. 2, 2009

winnipegfringe.com

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Experience ! The tour guides play several characters – you’ll meet Miss Fanny, the club owner, and Gus, one of Al Capone’s men, as you’re shuttled underground. As a bootlegging crew hurtles down the tunnel, the adrenaline starts pumping. It seems that real. The interactive Tunnels of Moose Jaw tour reenacts events from the Prohibition era in this bustling Saskatchewan town, and that’s only half the fun. The second presentation features animatronics characters and tracks Chinese immigration to the Prairies: You and the other visitors will play the role of former migrant workers on the Canadian Pacific Railway who helped shape the city as early shopkeepers and restaurateurs.

Winnipeg Fringe Theatre Festival Eclectic performances, with the proceeds going to the artists. Winnipeg, July 15–26, 2009

Sleep ! Hotel (named for original Formerly the Flanagan owner Jimmy Flanagan, who once owned all the horses in Saskatoon), the restored Hotel Senator is now a downtown boutique hotel and an architectural marvel. Early-20th-century candlestick chandeliers hang in the lobby, and in Rembrandt’s, the Victorian-style dining room, ribboned garlands and wreaths adorn the ceiling and sculpted angels ornament the crimson walls. The old beer parlor has been reincarnated as Winston’s, a low-lying British pub serving 120 international beers. Whether it’s Anchor Steam Beer from San Francisco or a sweet, hop-heavy Livisake from the Ukraine you crave, pull up a seat.

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Eat The long, narrow room at the family-run Truffles Bistro and Patisserie in downtown Saskatoon is floored with rich, dark hardwood, and the decor, much like the food, is understatedly chic. The simple and delicous fare includes the tangy Stilton blue cheese and caramelized pecan salad appetizer, which comes with local micro-greens, pea shoots and a Saskatoon berry vinaigrette. A glass of Osoyoos LaRose, 2004 – from the Okanagan Valley – strikes just the right balance with the main course: melt-in-your-mouth, prosciutto-wrapped pork tenderloin served in a zesty Saskatchewan cherry-and-ginger gastrique with mushroom duxelles.

Winnipeg Folk Festival All things folk, from a banjo retreat to a Young Performers program. Winnipeg, July 9–12, 2009

Sunday at the Farmers’ Market in Saskatoon, the smell of gourmet toffee is in the air and plump Evans cherries (picked that morning) taste succulently sweet as you sample your way round the stands. You’ve just returned from paddling the South Saskatchewan River and you deserve a little R&R. Maybe later that day, you’ll sink into a lawn chair at Bessborough Gardens and relax to saxophone and bass! riffs at the Saskatchewan Jazz Festival. Head three hours southeast, to the capital city of Regina, and you can dress up in the iconic scarlet-and-black attire of a Canadian Mountie at the RCMP Heritage Centre. This is also the city where history buffs soak in the atmosphere and heritage of the carefully restored Cathedral District. In winter, you can head north to Prince Albert National Park to sweep along snowy trails pulled by your own team of eager huskies. Or bring a glow to your cheeks skirting the shores of Anglin Lake, at the edge of Saskatchewan’s boreal forest, on cross-country skis.

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Winnipeg

Canadian tourism commission

Key events Windscape Kite Festival The skies come alive at this summer standout on the Prairies. Swift Current, July 20–21, 2009

Canadian tourism commission

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Experience In summer, Churchill Wild’s “Birds, Bears and Belugas” adventure offers an exclusive seven-day tour of the Seal River estuary, where you’ll see polar bears basking in the sun on the shore and belugas trailing your boat in the clean, crystal-clear water. Travelers who visit in winter and early spring, the best times to view the northern lights, join the “Fire and Ice” adventure to be immersed in the Inuit traditions of igloo-building and snowshoeing. In October and November, polar bears congregate en masse on the shores of Hudson Bay, and tours head out in the Tundra Buggy – a truck specially designed for off-road Arctic exploration – to view and photograph the extraordinary gathering.

Churchill, 1-866-UGO-WILD (1-866-846-9453) churchillwild.com

! Getting here Major Airport: Winnipeg James Armstrong Richardson International Airport (YWG) waa.ca Cab Fare: $15–$18 from YWG to Winnipeg city center For More Info: 1-800-665-0040, www.travelmanitoba.com !

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Along Montréal’s Saint-Denis St., the crowded terraces buzz with jazz music and clinking wineglasses as the locals enjoy a casual cinq à sept (happy hour). The intimate street is lined with designer fashion boutiques and antique shops, and the treed summit of Mount Royal Park creates a nearby horizon. Just three hours away in the amber-lit dining room of a vaudeville café in Québec City, theatergoers tuck into home-smoked duck aiguillettes with strawberry salad and excitedly discuss the evening’s performance of Cyrano de Bergerac. Connecting these cities is the historic Saint Lawrence River, where the Catamaran whisks away lovers and epicureans alike for cruises from the port of Old Montréal. But the French province most emulates its European ancestor as a four-season destination. Luxury spas and resorts dapple the countryside – ideal headquarters after hitting the slopes at Mont Tremblant or cycling through the lush Eastern Townships in spring.

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Toronto

! Québec City

luminato.com

Caribana The 42nd annual Caribbean extravaganza invites you to join in the parade. Toronto, July–Aug., 2009 caribana.com

Eat Taking a streetcar to Cowbell, on the far west reaches of trendy Queen St. West, fits with the restaurant’s ecologically sensitive approach to preparing food. A long wooden bar and a chalkboard showing the menu of the day create a warm ambience in this farm-friendly eatery. A few times a year, Chef Mark Cutrara puts on special Farmers’ Nights – communal, tables-pushed-together, five-course meals featuring products from regional growers and wineries, where you may find yourself sitting next to the farmers themselves. Past highlights included 60-day dry-aged strip loin with snap peas, shoots and flowers in a demi-glaze sauce.

Sleep ! There’s an added benefit to staying at the Rosseau: You get to call Goldie Hawn and Tom Hanks your neighbors. Set on a granite bluff overlooking Lake Rosseau, the Frank Nicholsondesigned hotel (he of international Four Seasons fame) is the first luxury property to open in the Muskoka region, just two hours north of Toronto. The balcony view from the shingle-and-stone lakeside suites in the Paignton House – joined to the hotel’s main building by a covered bridge – is not to be missed. And golf nuts, take heed: The recently revamped enviro-friendly golf course The Rock, designed by Nick Faldo, will have you seeing green as you step up to the first tee.

1564 Queen St. W., Toronto, 416-849-1095 cowbellrestaurant.ca

1050 Paignton House Rd., Minett, 705-765-1900 redleavesmuskoka.com

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Carnaval de Québec Come for the evening parade and stay for the late-night hot-tub parties. Québec, Jan. 29–Feb. 14, 2010 carnaval.qc.ca

Experience ! Train travel could well be the most laid-back way to get to see the country. Now, the VIA Rail Spa Train has upped the R&R factor, chugging across Ontario – gently, of course – to deliver you to up to 15 spas for an overnight stay and signature treatment. This experience is about the journey and the destination, so mix and match cities and spas to fit your itinerary. Claramount Inn in Picton offers a Bavarian Kneipp wellness strategy that, combined with the latest science and a holistic approach, promotes stress-reduction and balanced living in beautiful Prince Edward County. At Ottawa’s Au Naturel Spa, the Javalicious massage uses caffeine extracts to boost circulation, so you can skip the morning coffee.

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Montréal dining

viarail.ca/spatrain

Eat The Orford Express has all the trappings of a French bistro – soft lighting, ornate wooden wall trimmings and of course an abundance of red wine – within the roomy cabins of an antique train. As it wends its way through the valleys and mountains of Québec’s Eastern Townships, the retro locomotive makes a stop to show off Lake Memphrémagog – a vast glacial lake. From early May until early November, guests can choose to make the three-and-a-half-hour round-trip over brunch, a light early meal, or Dinner at Dusk – a three-course supper accompanied by old-time jazz. The light-meal menu offers “smallish gourmet pleasures” such as smoked duck with creamy melted brie and sweet caramelized pears.

Sleep ! An hour north of Québec City, the grand white manor of La Pinsonnière watches over the Saint Lawrence River. With the boreal forests of the Laurentian Mountains – famous for their ski resorts – as backdrop, and a cast of hawks, timber wolves and roaming moose, it’s no wonder that the surrounding Charlevoix region has been declared a UNESCO World Biosphere reserve. Belonging to the Relais & Châteaux family, the intimate 18-room inn is surrounded by a network of nature trails and is a short drive from BaieSaint-Paul, a village known for its art galleries. All rooms are equipped with fireplaces and oversize whirlpool bathtubs, and the on-site heated sauna makes for peaceful post-outing repose.

Experience The folks at The Gourmet Route assist visitors in planning sensation-packed day tours in four different regions of the province, centered on the workshops and homes of artisanal bakers, chefs, vintners, chocolatiers, cheese farmers and beekeepers. On Île d’Orléans, you can sample black-currant liqueur at Cassis Monna et filles and take a lesson in “the virtues of chocolate” at the Chocolaterie de l’Île d’Orléans (lesson one: chocolate gives muscle tone!). On a tour of Québec City, you’ll meet the bakers behind Le Paingrüel’s popular whole-flour sourdough and the oil makers of La Maison Orphée, all eager to pass on their know-how. This is hands-on culinary tourism, with lots of pauses to eat along the way.

Sherbrooke, 1-819-575-8081, orfordexpress.com

La Malbaie, 1-800-387-4431, lapinsonniere.com

1-877-266-5687, parcoursgourmand.com

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Getting here Major Airports: Toronto Pearson International Airport (YYZ) gtaa.com, Ottawa International Airport (YOW) ottawa-airport.ca Cab Fare: $40–$50 from YYZ to Toronto city center; $25 from YOW to Ottawa city center For More Info: 1-800-ONTARIO (1-800-668-2746), ! www.ontariotravel.net ! ! 64 www.canada.travel

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International de montgolfières de Saint-Jean-sur-Richelieu Visitors are invited along for the ride as more than 115 colorful balloonsdot the sky. Saint-Jean-sur-Richelieu, Aug. 8–16, 2009

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lanaudiere.org

Canadian tourism commission

Luminato Citywide bash features outdoor art installations, dance and music. Toronto, June 5–14, 2009

Festival International de Lanaudiere Classical music concerts are that much better in this beautiful hillside grove. Joliette, July 4–Aug. 2, 2009

From the outdoor observation deck of the vertiginous CN Tower in Toronto, possibilities of adventure seem limitless as the sun sets over glassy Lake Ontario. You could stay on in the provincial capital to explore the exciting international collections of the Art Gallery of Ontario, a natural light-flooded space fresh from a lyrical and geometrically dazzling redesign by starchitect Frank Gehry. Or head to the lush southern regions of the province – wineries in St. Catharines and the Niagara Peninsula are serving up ! award-winning local tipples. While in Niagara-on-the-Lake, indulge in a signature maple syrup wrap at a five-star spa. Revitalized, you might want to head just two-and-a-half hours west to experience the dramatic twists and turns of Shakespearean tragedies at the Stratford Festival. Or a few hours further north, you can sink into a deeper state of relaxation at a serenity-filled summer yoga retreat in Algonquin Provincial Park. By then, you’re just 250 km (155 mi) west of the nation’s capital, Ottawa. Head there to catch competitors paddling in perfect sync to the thumping beat of Chinese drums at the colorful 17th annual Dragon Boat Race Festival – Canada’s largest.

tulipfestival.ca

montrealjazzfest.com

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Canadian Tulip Festival Canada’s capital turns bright red to herald spring. Ottawa, May 1–18, 2009

ontario

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shawfest.com

Montréal

Key events Festival International de Jazz de Montreál B.B. King and Diana Krall both agree that it’s the best jazz festival in the world. Montréal, July 1–12, 2009

Toronto

Canadian tourism commission

Key events Shaw Festival The 2009 lineup of this theater fest features Noël Coward and Eugene O’Neill. Niagara-on-the-Lake, Apr–Oct. 2009

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! Getting here Major Airports: Montréal’s Pierre Elliott Trudeau International Airport (YUL) admtl.com, Québec City’s Jean Lesage International Airport (YQB) aeroportdequebec.com Cab Fare: $35 from YUL to Montréal city center; $30 from YQB to Québec City center For More Info: ! 1-877-BONJOUR (1-877-266-5687), www.bonjourquebec.com !

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Hitting the road from Halifax – home of tall ships, lively pubs and easygoing Maritimers – you have three highways to choose from. The 103 southbound will find you skimming along the southern shore, past coastal villages dotted with houses the colors of Easter eggs. On this route, you can join one of several whale-watching tours operating from the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Lunenburg. Back at headquarters in Halifax, driving north up the 102 will take you to a fork in the road. Head west and you can make your way to Joggins Fossil Cliffs, an evocative time capsule of the Coal Age where you can roam the beach to see three-million-year-old fossils embedded in the towering red cliffs. Head east, however, and you’ll approach Cape Breton, named top island in North America in 2008 by Travel + Leisure. There, the winding Cabot Trail curves through the lush and mountainous Cape Breton Highlands and provides a beautiful sightseeing route across the northern tip of the island.

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Harvest Jazz and Blues Featuring everyone from Buddy Guy to Brit band Bloc Party, this fest rocks. Fredericton, Sept. 15–20, 2009 harvestjazzandblues.com

World Pond Hockey Championship Canada’s national pastime goes alfresco. Plaster Rock, Feb. 2010 worldpondhockey.com

The Saint John River surges by the historic Garrison District in Fredericton. You can pick up a mallet in Barrack’s Square and enjoy a free game of croquet on a summer afternoon, or listen to a local Highland pipe band perform as evening falls. Only two hours drive south: the Fundy Park Trailway, where the tide recedes 14.5 m (48 ! ft) before the craggy lookout near the green coastal wilderness. New roadways from the tiny fishing hamlet of St. Martin’s lead all the way to Big Salmon River, the starting point for hiking trails along the Fundy Footpath. Head east to take in the gargantuan rock formations that line the shore on the way to Moncton. This coastline was home to early Acadian settlers (ancestors to Louisiana’s Cajuns). After experiencing a few days of the local hospitality, the smell of fresh crêpes and the sounds of English and French being spoken in the 125-year-old waterside market in Saint John, you just might find it feels like home to you too.

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Bristol, 506-392-6000, freshfinedining.com

! Sleep ! five-star Kingsbrae Arms The Relais & Chateau, in St. Andrews by-the-Sea is a prime destination for pampering. Enjoy ocean views from private balconies; at the end of the day, relax and take a hot bath in an elegant antique cast-iron tub. The restaurant serves fresh organic produce from the chef’s personal garden and an inspired menu of wine pairings that complement the cuisine to delightful advantage. Horticulturalists will love strolling through the Kinsgbrae Garden’s cedar maze, while those who prefer their grass one inch high can knock a few balls around the Thomas McBroom-redesigned Fairmont Algonquin Golf Course.

219 King St., Saint Andrews by-the-Sea 506-529-1897, kingsbrae.com

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International Busker Festival International street performers gather to perform along Halifax’s waterfront. Halifax, Aug. 6–16, 2009 buskers.ca

Lunenburg

Eat Located in Windsor – 40 miles west of Halifax and home of the annual Pumpkin Regatta – Cocoa Pesto Bistro is housed within the Woodshire Inn, an elegantly restored banana-yellow building from the 1850s. Chef Scott Geddes prepares his signature entrées, the savory smoked dry-rub ribs and juicy sweet-rub pork ribs, with an applewoodfired smoker. Hand-cut fries and homemade sauces like the brandy-peppercorn cream sauce are made fresh every day, and Geddes often emerges from the kitchen to introduce himself and chat with “come-from-aways.” Ask him for a tour of the Inn’s suites and he’ll show off owner Mike McCabe’s handiwork – handcrafted cedar four-poster beds.

Sleep ! Short of camping under the vines, the closest you’ll sleep to the grapes is at the Olde Lantern Inn & Vineyard in Grand Pré, an hour’s drive from Halifax on the eastern edge of the Annapolis Valley. Innkeeper Alan Connor, a former restaurateur and the resident carpenter, has carefully handcrafted and rebuilt the Inn beam by wooden beam. Each of the four suites leads out to a private path through the vineyard, illuminated nightly by candlelit lanterns. The “Inn the Vineyard” suite is coziest in the cool months thanks to its fireplace, ensuite Jacuzzi bath and romantic film and book collections. The Inn’s friends at Dragonfly Transformation Wellness Spa offer in-room spa therapies such as reiki or Swedish massage.

Experience Wander into the Fortress of Louisbourg and a soldier might invite you to join his regiment at the local tavern – it’s 1744 and the French colony is thriving, just one year before the British invade and occupy it for the first time. The reconstructed 18th-century seaport town – the largest in North America – is a faithful recreation of the original capital of Cape Breton Island. The King’s Bakery sells soldiers’ rations of rye bread, while the restaurants skimp on cutlery (spoons only!) to give guests an idea of what it was like to eat when silverware was scarce. Period homes are full of artifacts and chatty seamstresses, and every August, the Fortress hosts the Feast of St. Louis – a celebration commemorating King Louis IX.

Windsor, 902-472-3300, cocoapesto.com

Grand Pré, 902-542-1389, oldlanterninn.com

Louisbourg, 902-733-2280, louisbourg.ca/fort

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antigonishhighlandgames.com

Experience ! Just outside Fredericton lies the Kings Landing Historical Settlement, a recreated 19th-century village. Here, Edventures offers full-day summer programs dedicated to traditional artisanal craftsmanship and culture. The rug hooking and braiding workshop focuses on transforming worn-out fabrics and dresses into usable rugs, just like early settlers did centuries ago. Or step it up a notch by learning to barn dance in St. Mark’s Anglican Church. Spend the morning walking among wagons, fiddlers and townsfolk in the Saint John River Valley village and the afternoon learning the sewing, shaping and braiding techniques of early seamstresses. By day’s end, everything old really is new again.

Getting here Major Airports: Saint John Airport (YSJ) saintjohnairport.com, Greater Moncton Airport (YQM) gmia.ca, Greater Fredericton Airport (YFC) frederictonairport.ca Cab Fare: $30 from YSJ to Saint John city center; $16 from YQM to Moncton city center; $20 from YFC to ! Fredericton city center For More Info: 1-800-561-0123, www.tourismnewbrunswick.ca ! !

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Fredericton, 506-460-2233, edventures.ca

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Antigonish Highland Games A tradition dating back to 1863 where dancers, athletes and musicians put their Scottish skills to the test. Antigonish, July 17–19, 2009

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tallshipsnovascotia.com

! ! Eat Don’t mistake the three train cars in Bristol’s decommissioned railway station for disused relics of the past. In the first, Sara Caines, owner of Fresh Fine Dining, has merged a modern sophistication with the retro features of the original 1930s interior by including intimate high-backed burgundy booths and soothing candlelight in this railcar-turned-restaurant. The menu changes every six weeks, but here are some past culinary highlights: firm and succulent char-grilled Digby scallops in a champagne-cream sauce (plated with sugary bacon crisps), spicy oven-roasted yogurt lamb, and for dessert, a hedonistic hazelnut parfait with biscuits and chocolate custard. Talk about creating history.

Tall Ships Nova Scotia Tall masts and sails enthrall as ships parade in the Halifax harbor. Halifax, July 16–20, 2009

NOVA SCOTIA TOURISM

chocolate-fest.ca

new brunswick

lobsterpalooza.ca

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Chocolate Festival Celebrate 130 years of chocolate- making with tastings and tours. St. Stephen, Aug. 2–8, 2009

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Key events Lobster Palooza A seaside seafood “feastival” at restaurants and resorts along the Cabot Trail. May–June, 2009

Canadian tourism commission

Key events Festival Acadien Forty-seventh annual event commemorating the province’s French cultural history. Caraquet, Aug. 1–15, 2009

Fredericton

Sydney

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! Getting here Major Airport: Halifax International Airport (YHZ) hiaa.ca Cab Fare: $53 from YHZ to Halifax city center For More Info: 1-800-565-0000, ! www.novascotia.com

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Fall Flavours Taste your way across the island at more than 130 culinary events. Sept.–Oct. 2009 fallflavours.ca

Eat Chef Paul Peters at the Claddagh Oyster House – an institution in downtown Charlottetown for 25 years – has brought his own spin to traditional seafood dishes. Whet your appetite with local blue mussels prepared with white wine, garlic, celery and onion before indulging in dishes like juicy pan-seared scallops in a vanilla gastrique with basmati rice. But, of course, oysters are the main attraction. You can savor 10- or 25-piece tasters, including the plump and briny Colville Bay and the salty and sweet Raspberry Point varieties. Oyster shucking is best viewed from a seat at the bar – the live action unfolds with professional precision.

Sleep ! The West Point Lighthouse near O’Leary, out on the western tip of PEI, is many things: a museum, a restaurant and the only operating lighthouseturned-inn on the island. The Tower Room – the only one built into the original 1875 structure – has handmade quilts on the beds, 4-m (13-ft) ceilings and a view of the Northumberland Strait from the window. With long stretches of sandy beach that are home to nesting piping plovers, Cedar Dunes Provincial Park – where the lighthouse is located – is made for long walks; the pathways along the dunes were called “fairy walks” by early Scottish settlers. On the wooded trails you’ll perhaps glimpse PEI’s official flower, the elegant Lady Slipper.

131 Sydney St., Charlottetown, 902-892-9661 claddaghoysterhouse.com

O’Leary, PEI, 902-859-3605 westpointlighthouse.com

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Bay Bulls

Eat In downtown St. John’s, the chic, softly lit interior of The Vault contrasts dramatically with the classic maritime look of Water St. The scarlet wall behind the bar, potted lights illuminating modern artwork and glass-and-steel wine rack accent the dining room, which feels more like a backstage lounge at a Parisian opera. Fittingly, the resto offers a modern take on classic coastal dishes such as sweet and savory Atlantic salmon with Belgian-chocolate scotch sauce and a wild-blueberry-icewine reduction. The Vault is named after the extensive wine store it houses – the highlight is the champagne bar, which boasts an array of imported sparkling wines.

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festival500.com

Experience ! Prohibition lasted 48 years in PEI, so making moonshine, or “shine,” as the Islanders call it, became a backyard tradition. At the Myriad View Artisan Distillery in Rollo Bay, you can roll up your sleeves to learn mixing, measuring and swirling techniques and use a German copper still that turns molasses and cane sugar into vodka, gin and rum. This hands-on activity offered by Experience PEI connects visitors to locals – so you can get to know the folks running the distillery and hear tales of island living. And the best thing about this handcrafted alcohol? It’s legal. (Through Experience PEI, you can also rub shoulders with Islanders picking Paula red apples in York or making chocolate in Victoria-by-the-Sea.)

Getting here Major Airport: Charlottetown (YYG) flypei.com Cab Fare: $11 from YYG to Charlottetown city center For More Info: 1-800-463-4PEI ! (1-800-463-4734), www.gentleisland.com

Festival 500 – Sharing the Voices Preeminent choral musicians gather for performances and a symposium. St. John’s, July 5–12, 2009

902-888-8806, experiencepei.ca

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Trails, Tales & Tunes in Gros Morne Snowcapped mountains are the backdrop to hiking, singing and storytelling. Norris Point, Gros Morne National Park, May 15–24, 2009

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Charlottetown’s treasures are its boardwalks and boutiques, but stay too long in town and you’ll miss out on cycling Prince Edward Island’s Confederation Trail, exploring the ! coast at Red Point Beach, poking around Point Prim Lighthouse or settling into a cozy cliffside B&B. It takes just four hours to travel tip to tip across this island province nestled in the Gulf of St. Lawrence – about the same time it takes to play 18 holes at one of two 2008 Golf Digest-ranked golf courses. From Tignish to Elmira, ceilidhs – traditional Gaelic social dances – are still popular with the locals: They won’t let you linger on the sidelines for long as fiddle and bagpipe music fills the air and dance partners waltz and jig. And the perfect capper to your trip? Ocean-fresh Malpeque oysters on the Water St. Pier back in Charlottetown before taking in a performance of Anne of Green Gables – The Musical at the Charlottetown Festival.

PEI Shellfish Festival Chowder championships and oyster shucking equal pure deliciousness. Charlottetown, Sept. 18–20, 2009

prince edward island

Cain’s Quest A 2,300-km (1,430-mi) snowmobile race through rugged backcountry. Labrador City, Mar. 14–21, 2009

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exhibitions-festivalspeiae.com/ summersidelobstercarnival

cornerbrookwintercarnival.ca

Summerside Lobster Festival Celebrate this noble crustacean at this oceanside extravaganza. Summerside, July 2009

Lakeside

Canadian tourism commission

tourdepei.com

Key events Corner Brook Winter Carnival Mascot Leif the Lucky makes appearances on ski slopes and at the parade. Corner Brook, Feb. 20–Mar. 1, 2009

Tourism PEI/Russell Monk

Key events Tour de PEI Women’s cycling race crisscrosses the island countryside. Charlottetown, June 2009

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Undoubtedly, the best way to see the diverse terrain of The Rock – as the locals call it – is by car. A 30-minute drive from downtown St. John’s will take you to the Shakespeare by the Sea theater festival, where actors face the elements on the cliff-top meadows of Logy Bay. Clocking some 675 km (420 mi) due north will have you gazing in awe at the glacially carved fjords and the towering 610-m (2,000-ft) waterfalls of Gros Morne National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. After a hike or some kayaking on Western Brook Pond, you might notice on the map that you’re just a six-hour drive from St. Barbe, the gateway to Labrador. From there, a ferry ride might double as an orca-sighting tour, and will put you within driving distance of the historic fishing village of Battle Harbour. Inspired by your inner fisherman-at-sea, you can while away an afternoon trying to spot the serpentine Cadborosaurus, the seafaring cousin of the Loch Ness Monster.

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newfoundland and labrador

291 Water St., St. John’s, 709-738-5200 thevaultrestaurant.ca

! Sleep The Leaside Manor! Heritage Inn Suites and Apartments in downtown St. John’s has the 12 most romantic suites in the province. The Parker – with its vaulted ceiling and exposed wooden beams, over which the queen bed’s canopy is draped – has the ambience of a castle tower, tucked away from the business of the streets below. The Bonavista – named after the site where John Cabot landed more than 500 years ago – is slightly more modern, with an exposedbrick wall and a barely-there scarlet curtain separating the sleeping area from an oversize double Jacuzzi. Most suites have heated hardwood and ceramic tiled floors, fully equipped kitchens and the option of personalized in-room breakfast service.

Experience The Alcocks of Northland Discovery Boat Tours make seabird, whale and iceberg tours a family affair. A former cod fisherman, Captain Lewis Alcock has some 40 years experience at sea and commands the Gaffer III seven days a week from mid-May through late September. His son, Paul Alcock, serves as the Head Guide and draws on 17 years of experience as a certified conservationist to animate the two-and-a-half-hour tours along the northern corridor of Iceberg Alley. The boat, with a flybridge for optimal pano-ramic viewing, weaves in and out of Newfoundland’s largest sea caves and quietly glides by the coast’s community of Atlantic white-beaked dolphins and humpback, minke, fin and killer whales.

St. John’s, 709-722-0387, leasidemanor.com

St. Anthony, 709-454-3092, discovernorthland.com

! Getting here Major Airport: St. John’s International Airport (YYT) stjohnsairport.com Cab Fare: $20 from YYT to St. John’s city center For More Info: 1-800-563-6353, www.newfoundlandlabrador.com !

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On the shores of Great Slave Lake, the city of Yellowknife is hailed as the diamond capital of North America, where conflict-free and certified diamonds are mined from deep below the frozen tundra. These precious souvenirs can be browsed in shops that specialize in custom design and jewel setting. Such natural beauty can also be discovered at Nahanni National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site 500 km (310 mi) west of Yellowknife. Here, paddling through valleys along the Nahanni River, you’ll encounter Virginia Falls, twice the height of Niagara Falls. Toward the northwest corner of the territory, driving the Dempster Highway brings you to Lookout Tower in Jak Park, where tundra swans soar overhead and the Mackenzie River Delta sprawls out below. In summertime, the sun lingers on the horizon without setting. When the sun does set throughout the rest of the year, however, the aurora borealis appears in dramatic green streaks across the murky night sky.

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yukonquest.com

Sourdough Rendezvous Winter celebration highlighted by pioneer-style sports and the coronation of the Rendezvous Queen. Feb. 2010 yukonrendezvous.com

rockandiceultra.com

The early-morning frost still shines throughout the valley as you make your way to the former gold rush mecca of Dawson City. From the back of a dogsled, shouts of “Haw! Haw!” echo across the landscape as the team of huskies veers left toward town. There’s a flurry of activity year-round: from dancing on the grass and!listening to folk tunes at the Dawson City Music Festival in summer to gliding in a canoe over the crystal-clear waters of Quiet Lake down past the Salmon Mountains, home to mountain sheep, moose and bears. As winter approaches, you can take in the phantasmal emerald-green light show of the aurora borealis. Driving down the Klondike Highway to Whitehorse, stop in quaint towns such as Carmacks (by the Yukon River) to discover the rich local culture at the Tage Cho Judan Interpretive Center, or wander into town, where you’ll hear the slow staccato of the Northern Tutchone language being spoken. !

Experience ! Ruby Range Adventures Gold Rush Tour’s 22-day canoeing/driving adventure takes you from the Yukon to Alaska, retracing the trail prospectors blazed during the gold rush of 1898. You’ll push yourself physically while taking in wild scenery, paddling the first nine days along the Teslin and Yukon Rivers as bald eagles cruise overhead. Make camp alongside the Tombstone Mountains and abandoned gold miners’ settlements, where lucky visitors often discover relics from the area’s heyday. Freshly caught trout, pike and grayling taste even better cooked outdoors and shared with new friends and guides over campfire yarns.

Dawson City, 867-993-6527, klondikekates.ca

780-628-5322, franceslake.ca

Whitehorse, 1-867-667-2209, rubyrange.com

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Eat The best way to enjoy your Le Frolic dining experience, in downtown Yellowknife, is in tandem. The French bistro menu, developed by Chef Pierre LePage, puts a decided emphasis on dishes for two – like the fondue du gibier, made with rich, seasonal wild game in a velvety broth. The atmosphere is elegant (with dark paneled walls and colorful stained glass), but light and friendly. It’s the kind of place where your waitress will be able to tell you where you should head to next (the pub down the street perhaps?). But before you leave, we highly recommend trying the deep and delicious fondue au chocolat with subtle notes of kirsch and Grand Marnier, served – you guessed it – pour deux.

Sleep ! of its namesake, BlachNestled on the shores ford Lake Lodge is a 20-minute chartered plane ride east of Yellowknife, far from streetlights and within the Arctic wilderness. Guests can stay in the main lodge – with its panoramic windows and two aurora borealis viewing decks, comfy lounges decorated with historical photos of the Great Slave region’s pioneer days and a small library of northern reference books about local history, plants and animals – or in one of five rustic cabins, all within a five-minute walk of the main lodge. The Point Cabin, which sits on a hill among Douglas firs, is a favorite with newlyweds and couples for its cozy sleeping loft, toasty wood-burning stove and unobstructed view of the lake.

Experience When a tour package includes rental of a downfilled parka and a balaclava, you know you’ve wandered underneath the Aurora Oval, one of the best places to view the northern lights in the world. Once you’re decked out in Arctic gear (to keep you warm and cozy), guides transport your group to Aurora Village, a cluster of glowing teepees 20 minutes east of Yellowknife. By day, the village is a starting point for snowshoeing treks, dogsledding courses and ice fishing. At night, everyone settles into aurora kotatsus – the Japanese term coined for special heated outdoor seats – for a two-and-a-half-hour viewing of the glimmering red, green and blue hues of the northern sky. Cue the lights.

5019 49th St., Yellowknife, 867-669-9852, lefrolic.com

Yellowknife, 867-873-3303, blachfordlakelodge.com

Aurora Village, 867-669-0006, auroravillage.com

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floatplaneflyin.com

Getting here Major Airports: Whitehorse International Airport (YXY) gov.yk.ca/yxy, Dawson City Airport (YDA) Cab Fare: $12 from YXY to Whitehorse city! center For More Info: 1-800-789-8566, www.travelyukon.com

Midnight Sun Float Plane Fly-In Aviation enthusiasts flight-see the area surrounding Great Slave Lake. Yellowknife, July 24–26, 2009

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Sleep ! A former fur-trading post turned contemporary cabin in the woods, Frances Lake Lodge is nestled comfortably in remote southwestern Yukon in the northern foothills of the Rocky Mountains, and just a two-hour float-plane ride from the capital, Whitehorse. Waiting to greet you there is Swiss couple Martin and Andrea Laternser. Rustic touches such as kerosene lamps and wood stoves in each log cabin may seem old-fashioned, but with access to a four-person sauna, canoes and kayaks, licensed outdoor guides and a skilled Swiss chef preparing daily luxe meals, you’ll hardly be roughing it.

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Folk on the Rocks A festival focused on diversity, fusing northern and southern Canadian music. Yellowknife, July 17–29, 2009

Eat Klondike Kate’s, like many of the frontier buildings in Dawson City, is perched on a raised wooden boardwalk because the roads aren’t paved. Get into the northern spirit over breakfast with a cowboy wrap – a flour tortilla filled with fluffy scrambled eggs, black beans and melted cheese served with oven-roasted home fries and a fresh salsa – or return to dine on wild Yukon king salmon, delicately brushed with birch syrup reduction and Dijon mustard. The restaurant also doubles as an inn, so your log cabin is just steps away for post-dining naps. Eco-friendly amenities include bamboo linens and organic soap.

solsticefestival.ca

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Summer Solstice Festival Twenty-four daylight hours of merrymaking with music, dancing and a feast. Yellowknife, June 20–21, 2009

Yukon Quest Epic two-week dogsledding race from Fairbanks, Alaska, to Whitehorse. Feb. 2010

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Yukon International Storytelling Festival Words will fill the air in dozens of languages at the 22nd edition of this annual event. Whitehorse, Oct. 2009

Key events Rock & Ice Ultra Adventure Race Snowshoe and cross-country skiing events for novice to advanced racers. Yellowknife, registration deadline Mar. 1, 2009

Canadian tourism commission

alsekfest.com

Canadian tourism commission

Key events Alsek Music Festival Daylight lasts almost 24 hours at this Far North music fest. Haines Junction, June 2009

Yellowknife

Whitehorse

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! Getting here Major Airport: Yellowknife Airport (YZF) dot.gov.nt.ca Cab Fare: $10–$12 from YZF to Yellowknife city center For More Info: 1-800-661-0788, ! www.spectacularnwt.com

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tooniktyme.com

Alianait A 10-day festival featuring Arctic dance troupes and throat singing. Iqaluit, June 21-July 1, 2009 alianait.ca

Annual Fishing Derby A char-fishing competition in the most westerly town in the territory. Kugluktuk, Aug. 2009 travelinnunavut.com/Kugluktuk.cfm

Northwest Passage Marathon The world’s northernmost footrace takes place on Somerset Island. Somerset Island, Aug. 2009 canadianarcticholidays.ca

Cape Dorset

nunavut It’s quiet – the kind of perfect quiet you only find north of 60. The bow of the tiny 8.5-m (28-ft) passenger boat, ideal for getting up close to wildlife, noses its way to the shore. It’s only 90 km (56 mi) by plane from Iqaluit, but it feels like another world this far north, watching the clear water of Cascade Falls careen down the rocks of Baffin Island in the eastern part of the territory. On the far eastern shores, spring’s return to Qikiqtarjuaq brings the annual floe-edge – a nutrient-rich zone that forms when sea ice recedes, allowing marine life to thrive – and ivory gulls, bowhead whales and walruses convene to take advantage of the abundance. Spring is also a time to celebrate back in Iqaluit, where the sounds of traditional Inuit throat singing and the warm, sweet aroma of bannock drifting from the tents might just encourage you to stay a little longer than planned.

Eat This far north, you might be surprised to find sambuca-flavored prawns on a dinner menu. But in The Granite Room at the Discovery Lodge Hotel in Iqaluit, where oil paintings by Danish artist Eric Jacobsen line the cream walls, satiating the senses indoors is an excellent way to stay warm on chilly nights. Another signature dish, the Surf & Tundra, is a whimsical take on the ubiquitous lobster/steak combo, but in the northern version, saffron-infused arctic char is plated with broiled Baffin caribou. At Sunday morning brunch the chef cooks eggs, however you want them, to savor with juicy slices of roast beef. And for more adventurous eaters, there’s the smoked-char-topped muffin with sunny-side-up eggs.

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Iqaluit, 867-979-4433, discoverylodge.com/dining.html

! Sleep On Somerset Island,! as you stoop to inspect a 1.2-m-high (4-ft) ancient Inuit summer home in the High Arctic, look back across to Resolute Bay and thank your lucky stars that explorers Richard Weber and Josée Auclair built The Arctic Watch Lodge. Heated cabins, hot showers and an audiovisual projection room combine to prove that leaving home doesn’t necessarily mean having to leave everything behind. In the daytime, hundreds of nursing beluga whales along Cunningham Inlet provide endless entertainment. And if you head over to the Prince Leopold Island Bird Sanctuary, you can watch summering birds such as blacklegged kittiwakes and thick-billed murres.

Cunningham Inlet, 907-375-6590 visitnunavut.com/arcticwatchwildernesslodge.html

Experience Cape Dorset isn’t just a premier destination for expertly crafted Inuit sculpture (though you might make a deal when dropping by the West Baffin Eskimo Co-operative). Thanks to Huit Huit Tours, this artistic hamlet is also a jumping-off point to Saqpak Bay, just 160 km (102 mi) away. This is more than a back-to-the-land experience: It’s an opportunity to live the way generations of local Inuit have lived, sharing in their traditions and their knowledge. Local guides Timmun and Kristiina Alariaq skirt by rocky shores to pilot you to this off-the-beaten-path fishing destination where the arctic char gurgle upstream. If it’s been a lucky day at the river’s edge, the sun will shine on fresh fillets drying on the rack back at camp.

Cape Dorset, 867-897-8808, capedorsettours.com

! Getting here Major Airport: Iqaluit Airport (YFB) Local Airports: Cambridge Bay (YCB), Rankin Inlet (YRT), Baker Lake (YBK) Cab Fare: $6 from YFB to Iqaluit city center For More Info: 1-866-NUNAVUT (1-866-686-2888), www.nunavuttourism.com !

72 www.canada.travel

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Canadian tourism commission

Key events Toonik Tyme Community feasts and igloo building mark the beginning of spring. Iqaluit, Apr. 15-20, 2009