F A S H I O N
R E C O N S T R U C T E D N A T U R E :
S A R A
X I A O
S P R I N G / S U M M E R 2 0 1 8
CONTENTS
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Fashion School Daily Cover: RECONSTRUCTED NATURE/Styling by Poppy Xue/ Photography by Tian Yuan Hou. Created by Zoey Huang Spring 2018
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Designer
Interview
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Simon Porte Jacquemus
Biography
Sara Xiao “ Our
brand hopes to our customer to
p ay m o re a t t e n t i o n t o t h i s wo r l d a n d t h e current problems in this society through the themes we explore for our collects. Our design for customers are socially conscious and expects the themes. They are concerned Through
about
surface
through details
their and
clothing.
fabric
mix-
es. we create clothes with shock value and make people wake up and take notice.
Photographer : Yao Yang
Qian
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R E C O N S T R U C T E D N A T U R E 4
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Q: Tell me a little bit about yourself. Where did you grow up? SARA: I ‘m a fashion design major stu-
dent in Acamdey of Art. My name is Yao Xiao(Sara), from Shenyang, China. Fashion design has always been my dream. I feel lucky to have the support of family and friends to learn about costume design. Although learning design is not as easy as I thought, I even thought about giving up. But as a designer, I think my responsibility is not only to design different clothes styles for my customers. 6
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Instead, use different inspirations to warn society, such as the project that I once had a subject of autism inspiration. Because I hope everyone will pay attention to the disease and pay attention to the autism community. With this responsibility, I will continue my costume design journey...I hope my ability can make some changes for this world.
How would you describe your aesthetic? “ I am quite moody. My wor k is moody, romantic , poetic . Fashion is not about being pretty. I feel like perfection is boring. I make things seem r andom on pur pose , because I see beauty in imperfection. �
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What do you think the next big trend in fashion will be? SARA: I did a research a few days ago. I think the next fashion trend will be clothed with different accessories. Because I think the minimalist style has been popular for some time now it has entered a period of stagnation. You may need more things to show your style and attitude towards fashion. At this time, I think the small decorations will be a good oppor tunity to decorate different styles and styles of clothes.
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As a person living in the city, I think people are under increasing pressure. I lost my life at the lowest point in my life. I forgot my dream and forgot why I struggled. However, through friends and some fun in life, they have recovered their self-confidence. I think everyone has had this experience, so I used the city as my inspiration. San Francisco where I lived for three years, this is a charismatic and artistic city. Many people left their memories and dreams here.
LOST IN THE CITY: S A R A YA O
Styling by Poppy Xue // All clothes dsigned by Sara Yao // Photography by Yaoyang Qian
Every time I walk in the downtown of San Francisco, I always see a lot of busy people walking fast with their cold face in the city. I often imagine what they do and what their life is like. They are part of this busy and mysterious city. So I used the streetscapes of some cities and the main colors of some cities as the main part of this inspiration. I very much want to appeal to my customers and do not forget their dreams and happiness in their busy lives and keep their passion for life. 12
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Q: What designer collections would you pull from? SARA: The first fashion icon that really influenced me was Alexander McQueen. In my opinion, he is not just a designer. It is a real artist. He is really giving his enthusiasm and soul to his design work. Each of his shows is a true Wart show, but the artist is always being lonely. His suicide is a very pity for the fashion world. But he is the fashion icon that really guides me to learn costume designs. I think McQueen’s success is not only his outstanding design but also the emotional impetus behind the design.This is the most touching part for me.
The second fashion icon is Raf Simon. As women’s design, Raf Simons can always make changes in time, finding the right balance between brand tradition and personal style. He said: “I like to make changes constantly, just like chameleons.” “If you call me minimalist, that’s right; if you think I’m just a minimalist, Then you are wrong”. He is really good at “asymmetrical” design styles. This is the reason why I like him the most. He really created high fashion. He also used the drug as a source of inspiration for the design. I think this society needs more designers like Raf Simon. 14
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LOST IN THE CITY
Styling by Poppy Xue // All clothes designed by Sara Yao // Photography by Yaoyang Qian
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Imperfectly Beautiful: :
Imperfectly Beautiful
Chaw Chaw Su San
Styling by Chaw Chaw Su San // All clothes designed by Karin Kate Wong // Photography by Vince Aung
Where does your interest in fashion come from? CHAW CHAW SU SAN: I grew up in Burma (now Myanmar). When I was five year s old, we got a satellite dish with international channels. Unlike other kids who liked car toons, I wanted to watch Fashion TV all the time. My mother thought I wanted to be a model, but I told her I only cared about the beautiful clothes. My favorite par t was the finale when all the models walked out and the designer appeared. I dreamed of being one of those designer s. My parents had nothing to do with the ar t wor ld, but my grandfather was a photographer. I have witnessed his way of carefully planning ever ything before grabbing the camera to take pictures. His ar tistic blood is flowing in me, and his love of fashion has been a huge inspiration.
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What was your most memorable shoot so far? CCSS: Disharmonious Element. It was a project for a menswear class. I couldn’t find an idea before the deadline and even had a nightmare. I’ve had this recurring dream since I was young. A monster was chasing me in a very dark place. It choked me and I couldn’t shout. I’d wake up crying every time. So, I used that for inspiration. I had hand-sewn a lot of strings to represent the connection between the dream world and real life. The zipper was a symbol for my voiceless voice. If I have a chance, I’d re-shoot the concept and make it even more grim.
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Simon Por te Jacquemus has described himself as “happy, excited, impatient,” and all of those qualities are present in his playful clothes and envelope-pushing presentations. Charm is a quality often attributed to this largely self-educated designer, who moved from Salon-de-Provence in southern France to Paris at age 18. There he enrolled at ESMOD, but with the sudden death of his mother months later, he left school and worked briefly for Citizen K. He launched Jacquemus at 19, developing the label while simultaneously working retail at a Comme des Garçons boutique. He was nominated for the LVMH Prize twice, picking up a special jur y award of 150,000 euros and a mentorship for one year in 2015. Jacquemus’s aim is to create his own universe, and he likes to say “I don’t do clothes; I do stories.” Though these tales are about women, women like Caroline de Maigret (who appeared in one of his lookbooks after he contacted her on Facebook), They are also, ultimately, about the designer, who cuts and drapes on himself, and his sun-kissed and free childhood. “We know me,” he told
Simon Porte Jacquemus
journalist Emma Hope Allwood, “for my smile and my sunshine and my
Founder and Designer
[love of the] seaside.”
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The designer lost his mother at a young age. It has affected the course of his life, and like so many successful people whose early lives are marked by the death of a parent, it’s given him a special, vivid nostalgia for his idyllic childhood—the sea, the sun, the folk tradition, the entire cinematic, sexy, mythology of the South of France—and a fearless drive. “
SS18 LA BOMBA ASSA MYRIAM, FASHION, JACQUEMUS, S/S 2018 CAMPAIGN
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photo photographed by Mehdi Mendas. graendas.
photographed by Mehdi Mendas
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Biog raphy
Zoey Huang has creative and well developed
Fashion Design, with experience in orchestrating all aspects of woman’s clothing design while demonstrating attuned attention to detail and inventive qualities. She has been a passionate learner of Fashion womenswear construction, since 2015. Zoey was raised up in the city of Guangdong, the south of China. She spent four years on primary education back in China and six years on drawing abilities based on sketches and watercolor painting. She started her abroad life since she was 17 in Academy of art University. her background and her passion for fashion design is what make her art unique.The college has brought her into contact with fashion design and has lead her on a new adventure to find her
ZOEY HUANG
passion of the art. With her professional design experiences, she started to explore the world of fashion. She appreciates the aesthetic of romantic minimalism and subtle things. With a background in fine art, she creates characters within
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her work, crafted from hybrids of our sartorial history.
Dandan Huang ID#04376501 FSH 168-02 Spring 2018