THE BUYING GUIDE

All wines listed are recommended by our experienced panel of tasters. Each wine is rated based on its varietal character, representation of style and/or region, balance and price-quality ratio. Readers should assess these, and all wines, using the same criteria. Browse our experts’ tasting notes to find the wines that may appeal to your taste or pique your interest to try something new. After all, one of the best parts about wine is the discovery. The prices listed are approximate retail prices and will likely vary from jurisdiction to jurisdiction. A large number of these wines can be purchased across Canada and the USA, so check with your local private wine store or liquor board for availability.

Our tasters are Tony Aspler (TA), Gurvinder Bhatia (GB), Michelle Bouffard (MB), Michaela Morris (MM), Tim Pawsey (TP), Christopher Sealy (CS), Brie Dema (BD), Donatella Dicca (DD), Christine Sismondo (CSO) and Robin LeBlanc (RL).

STELLAR VALUES (Buy by the Case):

Incredible values that overdeliver with respect to their quality/price ratios. Ideal for everyday drinking and entertaining. Wines in this category retail for less than $25

Creekside Sauvignon Blanc Niagara Peninsula VQA, 2020, Ontario Canada ($15)

Stellar value from a winery well known for Sauvignon Blanc. This one is straightforward, with grapefruit, guava and ripe peach aromas. Fresh, well-balanced body, finishing on a juicy note. Not complex, but not expected to be. (BD)

Telmo Rodríguez Basa Rueda DO, 2021, Spain ($17)

If this wine always offers great value, the 2021 is by far one the best vintages I’ve had. While many producers in the Rueda include Sauvignon Blanc, Telmo Rodríguez focuses on the indigenous Verdejo grape. Juicy and crisp with generous notes of lemon, grapefruit, and a delicate herbal touch, Basa offers a beautiful expression of the grape. Delicious on its own and pairs beautifully with white fish ceviche. (MB)

Gérard Bertrand Côte des Roses Chardonnay Pays d’Oc IGP, 2020, France ($19)

Yellow gold in colour. This is toasty and minerally with pineapple and peach flavours and a lingering lemony finish. (TA)

A&D Wines Monólogo Avesso Vinho Verde DOC ‘P67’, 2021, Portugal ($20)

Not all Vinho Verde is fizzy and sweet. This Avesso arrives with vibrant citrus, orchard fruit and multilayers of herbs - from sage to mint - supported by white floral aromas. The palate is clean and carries the same energy and persistence of fruit and flavour. Intense and exciting! (CS)

Quinta do Tamariz Loureiro Vinho Verde DOC, 2021, Portugal ($20)

From a vineyard located 20km inland from the Atlantic Ocean along the Lima Valley River. Old vines provide true laurel floral aromas, with kiwi fruit to herbs and a saline, light green tea sensation. The palate is luminous with notions of white tropical fruit and citrus, challenged by more savoury herbs. A gentle mouthfeel and lengthy finish. Not ordinary Vinho Verde. (CS)

Quails’ Gate Rosé Okanagan Valley BC VQA, 2021, British Columbia Canada ($20)

This Gamay and Pinot Noir blend (fermented separately) had just four hours of skin contact, which accounts for the pretty, pale salmon colour. Red berries and tropical hints on the nose before a juicy palate of cranberry, raspberry and watermelon. Nicely balanced with good acidity through a crisp, dry finish. Very food friendly and flexible, as in perfect with Pissaladière... A foil for the saltiness of black olives and anchovies but picking up on the sweetness of the caramelized onions. Quails’ Gate’s vineyards are now certified by Sustainable Winegrowing British Columbia (SWBC). (TP)

Fontana Dominio de Fontana Sauvignon Blanc-Verdejo Uclés DO, 2021, Castilla-La Mancha Spain ($22)

Lightly grassy aromas with hints of apple, citrus, white pepper and fennel, fresh with good texture, medium long finish, with stony mineral notes. A nice match with baked trout with a tart fruit salsa. (DD)

Fontana Dominio de Fontana TempranilloSyrah Uclés DO, 2020, Castilla-La Mancha Spain ($22)

Fresh and ripe, earthy black fruit aromas maintain clarity and freshness, bolstered by juicy acidity and elegant tannins. Plum and currant flavours linger on the finish. A great value and approachable while still maintaining great character. (DD)

Fontana Dominio de Fontana TempranilloCabernet Sauvignon Uclés DO, 2019, Castilla-La Mancha Spain ($22)

Ripe black-fruit aromas are full, layered and spicy, this blend of Tempranillo and Cabernet Sauvignon is juicy and textured with refined, elegant tannins. Wild berry flavours are nicely spiced, with bright acidity creating a nice lift on the lingering finish. Another excellent value from this producer sustainably farming at high-altitude vineyards in Uclés. (DD)

Bideona Mayela Tempranillo Rioja Alavesa DO, 2021, Rioja Spain ($22, Tank sample)

Bright vinous aromas, juicy and crunchy cherry, red currant, plum and fresh herbal flavours mixed with notes of spice and smoke with lively acidity on the mouth-watering finish. Chill and quaff, quite delicious. (DD)

Hidden Bench Locust Lane Rosé Beamsville Bench VQA, 2020, Ontario Canada ($24)

I’m so glad to taste this wine with an additional year of bottle age. It was lovely last year, but this year a beautiful savoury, slightly herbal note adds a layer of interest. There is also a more generous nature to the body of the wine. The tart strawberry and rhubarb aromas are still very much there, but together with rosemary and wild-foraged plants (the kind with a bit of soil clinging to the stalks). Organically farmed estate-grown Pinot Noir with a touch of Viognier. (BD)

Head High Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast, 2019, California USA ($24)

This wine offers all the elegance and generosity you seek in a Pinot Noir from Sonoma Coast, and at a stellar price! Lush notes of wild strawberries and raspberries with round silky tannins and 14.5% well integrated. A rare find at this price. (MB)

Alta Alella GX Garnacha Catalunya DO, 2021, Spain ($24)

Joyful in every way. Bright, lifted fruit aromas of red plums, cherries, red rose and roasted herbs. Surprisingly fresh, strawberry-fruited flavours greet you, with easy-going tannins, and unintrusive alcohol. A great choice for when you want to love what you are drinking but you don’t want to think too much about it. (BD)

Weingut Schloss Lieser SL Riesling Trocken, 2020, Mosel Germany ($25)

A focused and precise wine, true to Mosel origins, this is delicate, with aromas of pear, white peach, dainty florals, and flint. The wine has a texture like lemon pith and the refreshing acidity takes centre stage from start to finish but never overshadows the fruit or body. Classically modest ABV and effortless balance. (BD)

OFF THE WALL (Absolutely worth a shot):

Unique, distinct, interesting wines from lesser-known grape varieties or regions that are worth tasting

because they are that good. Don’t bypass them because they may be unfamiliar or judge them by the first taste. They are well made wines and your palate deserves to give them a shot even if it takes a little time to get to know them.

Malivoire Melon Beamsville Bench VQA, 2021, Ontario Canada ($22)

From Malivoire Estate and Mottiar vineyards - a unique wine in that there is little of the Melon de Bourgogne grape planted in Niagara. It shows lemony citrus, fresh pear and apple, and a faint floral note - though not as mineral as its Loire-raised cousins. The palate shows a vibrant acid-centered edge, and a lovely lees aroma and texture; baker’s dough/brewery-like. Precise and refreshing. (BD)

Domaine Gerovassiliou Malagousia Vieilles Vignes PGI Epanomi, 2021, Macedonia Greece ($27)

What a beautiful expression of Malagousia! Beautiful, perfumed nose with aromas of fresh pink grapefruit mingling with dried herbs and orange peel. The pleasant bitterness on the finish gives structure and balances the aromatic profile. Shines when served with grilled eggplant or salad of roasted beet, fennel and mandarin. So much character! (MB)

Tetramythos Malagousia Achaia, 2021, Peloponnese Greece ($28)

Textural and racy with citrus blossom and zest, melon, minerally saline and lightly herbal, sleek and expressive with a long, mouthwatering finish. (DD)

Tetramythos Mavro Kalavrytino Natur, 2021, Peloponnese Greece ($28)

A savoury and tart red, full of delicious juicy berry and cherry flavours, sweet spice, supported with firm, yet accessible tannins and a mineral, zesty and fresh finish. (DD)

Tetramythos Retsina Amphore Natur, 2021, Peloponnese Greece ($28)

Excellent balance between traditional flavour and contemporary refinement. Subtle herbal/ pine notes with a bright citrus edge, a lively mix of acidity, lemon and lime peel and crushed herbs. Balanced and intriguing. (DD)

Franco Conterno Langhe Nascetta DOC del Comune di Novello, 2020, Piedmont Italy ($30)

While based in the Barolo township of Monforte d’Alba, the Franco Conterno estate owns vineyards in the neighbouring village of Novello, where the local Nascetta grape is on the rise. This sees no oak – just a short passage in stainless steel. The nose is pretty and discreet showing green apple, sage and lemon. The palate brings in tropical fruit flavours of pineapple and guava. Midweight and ripe without being heavy, it offers appropriate substance and chew. Acidity is soft but a saline touch lends refreshment. (MM)

Rizman Pošip, 2021, Dalmatia Croatia ($35)

Pošip is one of the best indigenous white grapes of Croatia, and Damir Štimac, owner of Rizman winery, brings it to its heights. The vines are planted on steep vineyards on limestone soil. Daytime temperatures can easily rise to 40 degrees Celsius, but the decrease in temperature at night and harvest in cool conditions preserve freshness. Vibrant and fresh with rounded texture. Melon, yellow plum and citrus are in harmony with saline notes. Pleasant bitterness on the finish lifts the wine. Great discovery! (MB)

Bodegas Los Bermejos Malvasía Volcánica Seco Lanzarote DO, 2021, Canary Islands Spain ($36)

On the sub-tropical, volcanic island of Lanzarote, Bodegas Los Bermejos has revived a tradition of winemaking by partnering with local grape growers. Together they have preserved the unique growing system of individual vines grown in small craters protected from winds by lava stone walls. The ungrafted Malvasía Volcánica opens discreetly but this ain’t no wall flower. Peach blossom, melon and strawberry papaya meet sun baked stone. Dry and energetic, it packs a core of sweet, concentrated fruit with saline edges, leaving the palate cleansed and ready for another bite of sweet, fresh shellfish. (MM)

Bodegas Los Bermejos Listán Negro Maceración Carbónica Lanzarote DO, 2021, Canary Islands Spain ($36)

A close relative of Chile’s País grape, Listán Negro is rarely seen in Europe but is the most planted red across the Canary Islands. This bottling is made using carbonic maceration which is apparently quite common too. This gives an exuberantly fruity expression. Aromas of ripe blueberry, candied plums, cinnamon and nutmeg repeat on the palate. Medium weight yet mouth filling with soft juicy acidity and light, grapey tannins. The finish is bitter edged but in a fascinating way - very salted black licorice. (MM)

Brash Higgins ZBO Zibibbo Ricca Terra Farms Riverland, 2020, Australia ($45)

Another stunning vintage crafted by Brad Hickey! Made from 70-year-old bush vines, Zibibbo (also known as Muscat of Alexandria) is macerated on the skin in amphorae for 150 days. The result is irresistible! Stunningly aromatic with juicy notes of pink grapefruit, orange peel and fresh grape and a pleasant bitterness on the finish. Saline and thirst quenching. Dangerously easy to drink on its own and a natural with Indian food or roasted root vegetables. (MB)

Ursa Major Más Cerquita de Ti, 2020, British Columbia Canada ($50 - 1.5L)

The gateway wine into the world of skin contact ‘orange’ wine. An expression of aromatics and texture from the combined forces of Riesling, Semillon, Gewurztraminer and Sauvignon Blanc. Mango compote, pear and nectarine nectar with pronounced spiced aromatics bring you into a mouthfeel that is zesty, with pith and texture as it brings you into this lovely world of psychedelic flavours. (CS)

Bideona Badiola L4GD4 Rioja Alavesa DO, 2019, Rioja Spain ($55)

The fresh L4GD4 with crunchy red fruits comes from the high elevation vineyard plots around the village of Laguardia, so grapes usually ripen the earliest among the Bideona wines. Elegant and fragrant with present, but velvety tannins, floral and a delicate juiciness of wild strawberries that enhances the wine’s brightness and accessibility. A lovely wine for charcuterie and carpaccio. (DD)

Bideona Badiola V1BN4 Rioja Alavesa DO, 2019, Rioja Spain ($55)

Rounder and riper with slightly darker fruit, V1BN4 has more presence than the L4GD4, but without being heavy on the palate. From the vineyards surrounding the village of Villabuena, the wine shows excellent balance between freshness, elegance and concentration with a purity of berry aromas and flavours, firm, fine-grained tannins and a precise, focussed finish. (DD)

Bideona Badiola S4MGO Rioja Alavesa DO, 2019, Rioja Spain ($55)

The firmly textured S4MG0 is sourced from the village of Samaniego. The pure and defined fruit is leaning towards the darker side with firm, refined tannins and texture, spicy and complex with great depth and length on the finish. An incredibly delicious wine that is complete from start to finish. (DD)

Bideona Badiola L3Z4 Rioja Alavesa DO, 2019, Rioja Spain ($55)

The L3Z4 shows serious structure, but maintains purity and freshness. Fruits is from the vineyards around the village of Leza. Loads of mineral, graphite, black cherry, blackberry and blueberry aromas, with herbal notes, precision of the palate with an abundance of mouth-watering acidity to keep the wine and the long finish fresh and lifted. (DD)

CELLAR-WORTHY (Rewarding patience):

Wines that will not only benefit from some time in your cellar, but will evolve, develop and reward those with patience. Cellaring times are recommendations only and optimal drinking windows will depend on each individual wine lover’s personal preference.

Burrowing Owl Merlot Okanagan Valley BC VQA, 2019, British Columbia Canada ($32)

The nose invites with aromas of red and black fruit, then plum and floral hints wrapped in vanilla. The entry epitomizes a house style that leans more gently towards the understated than some ‘in your face’ Okanagan offerings. A plush, finely balanced palate shows complex notes of damson and dark cherry, ripe dark berries, wild herbs, spice and mineral undertones. The wine is

supported by well-integrated and approachable tannins—all in sync and brightened by a streak of fresh acidity. Drinking very nicely now but well worth putting away for a few years. The winery reckons it’s good for a decade at least, and we’ll drink to that. One of the original Okanagan pioneering hallmark reds that rarely, if ever, fails to impress. (TP)

Kacaba Proprietor’s Block Syrah Niagara Escarpment VQA, 2019, Ontario Canada ($33)

A gold medal winner at the 2022 Ontario Wine Awards. Deep purple in colour with a spicy, oaky, blackberry nose and white pepper notes. Medium-bodied, dry, beautifully balanced and firmly structured, this offers black cherry and blackberry flavours. Northern Rhône in style. (TA)

Viña Olabarri Gran Reserva Rioja DOCa, 2014, Spain ($33)

80% Tempranillo, 16% Graciano and 4% Mazuelo. Deep purple in colour. A cedary, spicy, black cherry bouquet with notes of vanilla and coconut. Medium-bodied, dry, richly extracted and firmly structured, this has cherry, black plum and blueberry flavours with powdery tannins. A very harmonious wine. (TA)

Closson Chase Chardonnay Prince Edward County VQA ‘South Clos’, 2019, Ontario Canada ($42)

This has all the right stuff. Aromatically, oak spice plays with a range of fruit characteristics - leaning to the green apple/pear side, but also with ripe Meyer lemon notes. A touch of flintiness complements. The precise palate sports a beautiful seam of acidity and a balanced, long flavourful finish. Looking forward to tasting this again with a bit more age. (BD)

COS Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG Classico, 2017, Sicily Italy ($49)

In keeping with my expectations from COS, the 2017 Cerasuolo di Vittoria is a thing of power and beauty. Aromas of ripe red fruits, cigars, forest walks and wild places. Striking balance and elegance on the palate, it is still voluptuous and full-flavoured. Priced well under the top wines of Tuscany, but like-minded and equally well-crafted. Great value, amazing now and over the next 15 years. (BD)

Thibaud Boudignon Anjou AOC, 2020, Loire Valley France ($50)

Nothing falls short of greatness from this highly talented producer of the Loire Valley. But his wines need time to reveal themselves. Pure and precise with a great backbone and tangy acid. The wine is driven by minerality underlined by subtle notes of chamomile, stone fruit and white flowers. With time, the austere profile will ease into a more generous profile. Long life ahead. I will keep my bottles for at least a decade. (MB)

Clos du Soleil Signature Similkameen Valley BC VQA, 2019, British Columbia Canada ($55)

From an excellent and relatively normal vintage with ideal growing and cool ripening conditions, this blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot was hand harvested, cold soaked, concrete fermented and aged 16 months in French oak. The wine lures with warm aromas of red and black berries, floral and spice notes before a layered and complex palate of black cherry, mulberry, mint and cassis. It shows some mint and savoury notes with distinct minerality. The mouthfeel is plush but well-structured with well-integrated tannins. Certainly age-worthy for a decade or more. (TP)

Vassaltis Assyrtiko Santorini PDO, 2020, Greece ($60)

Assyrtiko is one of the greatest white grapes in the world, especially when found on the volcanic soils of Santorini - and Vassaltis definitely brings the grape to its heights. Tension, energy, minerality and texture are the words that come to mind when I drink this wine. Crisp and saline with notes of guava, passion fruit and Meyer lemon, this Assyrtiko is still reserved and will need another 3-6 years in the cellar to show its best. If you can’t wait, drink the bottle over a few days. It’s amazing to witness how the wine evolves and reveals itself. Octopus anyone? (MB)

Pasquale Pelissero Barbaresco DOCG ‘Bricco San Giuliano’, 2019, Piedmont Italy ($60)

Mother and son team Ornella and Simone Pelissero work tirelessly at this modest 8-hectare estate just outside the town of Neive. They make sturdy, unflashy wines that represent very good value for the money - in the realm of the Langhe. One of their top bottlings, this comes from the sun-doused top of the San Giuliano cru. Robust and ripe, it exudes licorice and dark black cherry with an underlying wondrously wet forest character. Tannins are currently at the fore and slightly astringent but should sort themselves out. A solid 10-year wine. (MM)

Big Head RAW Syrah Niagara Peninsula VQA, 2020, Ontario Canada ($65)

Includes 5% Viognier. Dense purple in colour with a smoked meat, blackberry and white pepper bouquet. Full-bodied and dry with a meaty, blackberry flavour, this is firmly structured and rich on the palate. (TA)

Aurelio Settimo Barolo DOCG ‘Rocche dell’Annunziata’, 2016, Piedmont Italy ($70)

Tiziana Settimo has been at the helm of this estate since her father Aurelio died in 2007. She describes herself as the ‘jolly joker’. While I wouldn’t say that her wines are similarly jovial, they do reflect her genuine and unpretentious character. Rather ‘old school’ in style, with firm commanding tannins that are on the right side of dry, the 2016 Rocche dell’Annunziata is just starting to come around. It is very savoury edged showing nuances of chestnut, hazelnut and tobacco with exotic spice. Full but not hard with such a satisfying chew, this should continue to evolve intriguingly over the next dozen or so years. (MM)

Viberti Barolo DOCG Riserva ‘Bricco delle Viole’, 2016, Piedmont Italy ($75)

The Viberti estate owns 4 hectares in the lauded Bricco delle Viole cru with altitudes reaching a cool 500 metres. The Riserva hails from a 0.5-hectare plot planted in the 60s and ages slowly over 4 years in large, untoasted oak vats. Though recently released, it is immediately expressive with notes of mint and eucalyptus. Hints of lilac and violet lurk in the background. The palate is layered with red currant and cherry infused with pepper. Tight, fine-grained tannins wrap around this taut Barolo Riserva while racy acidity cleaves through the core. As tempting as the aromas are right now, it will benefit from a couple of years in the cellar with another 12 to 15 years of enjoyment ahead of it. (MM)

Castello di Neive Barbaresco DOCG ‘Santo Stefano’, 2019, Piedmont Italy ($78)

One of Barbaresco’s most historic and prestigious vineyards, Santo Stefano is entirely owned by Castello di Neive. The 2019 is austere and linear but with great fruit depth. Though resolute, the tannins are integrated and balanced. Very savoury and balsamic, it is saturated by iron, bay laurel, forest floor and cooling mint. A full, powerful Barbaresco with easily 15 years ahead of it. (MM)

Betz Family Winery Domaine de Pierres Syrah Walla Walla Valley AVA, 2018, Washington USA ($80)

Domaine de Pierres is the latest addition to Betz’s single site Syrah offerings. The vineyard is located in the Rocks of Milton Freewater AVA which is nestled in the Walla Walla AVA. The soils, made of large river stones washed down from the Blue Mountains, accumulate heat and offer the ideal microclimate for Syrah to thrive in. Full-bodied with fresh acidity, firm tannins and generous notes of red plum, the wine exudes a nice balance between ripeness and freshness. The lifted violet notes combined with smoked meat and black pepper make the wine savory. If you can resist, wait 7-10 years till opening. With time, tannins will resolve, and oak will integrate. (MB)

Phantom Creek Estates Kobau Vineyard Cuvée Okanagan Valley BC VQA Golden Mile Bench, 2019, British Columbia Canada ($80)

Kobau vineyard on the Golden Mile Bench is relatively cool due to early morning sun and afternoon shade from Mount Kobau. Its complex, gravelly soils can drive unique minerality. This blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc, with Petit Verdot, Malbec, Viognier and Syrah, yields forward vibrant red berries with some earthy hints. The precisely balanced and structured palate of mulberry, damson and spice is accentuated by a distinctly mineral core with spice notes to close. (TP)

Mac Forbes Pinot Noir Yarra Valley ‘Gladysdale’, 2019, Victoria Australia ($90)

This wine represents the top tier in Mac Forbes’ lineup. Gladysdale is a site located in the south of Yarra Valley on clay-based soils. The resulting wine is incredibly aromatic, perfumed with notes of wild violets, game meats and partridgeberry. The palate fans out into a crescendo of crunchy red fruit, and an iron-like salinity. It is surprisingly firm and dense (with around 11% ABV). I want to see this wine in 5-7 years but can imagine it would be lovely up to 10 years depending on your preference. (BD)

Beaux Frères Pinot Noir Yamhill Carlton AVA ‘Abbott Claim’, 2018, Oregon USA ($90)

Quite generous in perfume with fresh currant, ripe field strawberry and raspberry. Red florals and some cacao warm the nose. To palate - the wine is crisp and clean with similar red berry fruit energy, yet with depth and complete in flavour. There is a clarity of Pinot expression. (CS)

Mauro Molino 40e Anniversario Barolo DOCG, 2016, Piedmont Italy ($100)

To commemorate the estate’s 40th anniversary, brother and sister Matteo and Martina Molino have come out with this limited release bottling. From a tiny 0.2-hectare southwest facing plot in the Annunziata cru planted in 1971, it is vibrantly and persistently perfumed with mint and nutmeg. There is plenty of concentrated strawberry through the core to match the ample structure. Long, suede-like tannins are elegant, eventually dissolving into a soft powdery grasp. A worthy tribute to their parents Mauro and Maria Luisa who started bottling wine in 1982. (MM)

TOP SUSTAINABLE WINE PICKS:

Sustainability refers to social, economic and environmental practises. It is important to understand that it is a process and journey rather than a finite destination. No one is perfect and we make no claims as to the degree to which the practises of these producers align with varying global standards, guidelines and certifications. But, the wines selected for this category are from producers who appear engaged in sustainable practices and, in the opinion of the reviewers, deserve recognition. Of course, they also taste great.

Anthonij Rupert Wines Protea Chenin Blanc Western Cape WO, 2020, South Africa ($15)

This packs in a lot of pleasure for the price. Scents of honeydew melon and green apple are dusted with lees. Light in weight, the palate brings in a honeyed note countered by a crisp, steely backbone of concentrated lemony acidity. Finishes with hints of camomile. Closed with a reusable twist cork and sporting a label printed on recycled paper, Protea’s pretty bottle was designed to encourage repurposing. Go ahead and use it or a vase or adopt it as your water bottle. (MM)

Tania & Vincent Câreme Terre Brûlée Chenin Blanc Swartland WO, 2020, South Africa ($22)

This wine delivers on so many fronts. Above all, the value for money can’t be beat. Intriguing aromas of pastry dough and earthy mushrooms make way for honeyed apple and pear. Concentrated, ripe stone fruit gives a midweight palate that is textured and generous. Then a minerally, salty beam pierces through. The finish pops with flavour. A contender for my house white all year long, it’s made from dry-farmed, old vine Chenin Blanc and bears South Africa’s Integrated Production of Wines (IPW) sustainable certification. (MM)

Salcheto Rosso di Montepulciano DOC, 2020, Tuscany Italy ($23)

Young vine Sangiovese is blended with a little bit of Canaiolo Nero and Merlot, then refines briefly in stainless steel. The result is a delightfully bright, uncomplicated yet satisfying red. Crisp red berries are at the fore as light clayey tannins give fine frame. Finishes with an energizing tang. Led by Michele Manelli, the Salcheto winery is designed to be off the grid and certifies the carbon footprint of each bottle of wine. The company has also established a Welfare Plan for employees, among the first Italian wineries to do so. (MM)

Jean-Paul et Charly Thévenet Morgon AOC, 2020, Beaujolais France ($28)

In a blind tasting, it would be easy to mistake this Gamay for a good Pinot Noir from HautesCôtes de Beaune. Great purity of fruit and silky texture. Bright acid with crunchy fresh notes of red cherries which mingle with violet and subtle earthy notes. Very elegant. Serve slightly chilled with grilled tuna or steak tartare. Outstanding value. (MB)

Tetramythos Sideritis Natur, 2021, Peloponnese Greece ($34)

Engaging and crisp, with juicy apple, nectarine and citrus flavours, concentrated but balanced acidity on the lively finish. From 50+ year old vines. (DD)

Rizman Tribidrag, 2019, Dalmatia Croatia ($35)

The origin of Zinfandel is Croatia and one of its original names is Tribidrag - hence the name of this wine. I am extremely impressed by the balance and savoury profile. Fresh and vibrant with dusty tannins and notes of black plum and blackberries in harmony with dried herbs and black olives. Having tried older vintages, I predict even greater complexity in 5-7 years from now. (MB)

Troon Vineyards Biodynamic Blend Druid’s Fluid Apple Gate Valley AVA, 2020, Oregon USA ($35)

Druid’s Fluid’s blend changes from vintage to vintage but I am told the 2020 favours Viognier with Marsanne, Roussanne and Vermentino. Animated aromas are redolent of peach tinged with lemon balm, rosemary and honeysuckle. Appropriately round and creamy, this fills the mouth with plump apricot. The acidity is soft but juicy and offers plenty of verve to invigorate. In 2021, Troon became the second winery globally to receive the newly established Regenerative Organic Certification which is based on soil health, animal welfare and social fairness. (MM)

Sperling Old Vines Riesling Okanagan Valley BC VQA, 2016, British Columbia Canada ($35)

From Canada’s organic/biodynamic maven - Ann Sperling, the Old Vines bottling is crafted from Riesling planted in 1978. It makes you sit up and take notice at first whiff. Penetrating lime and wet stone are quite transcending. Very linear yet infiltrates every part of the palate with rocky minerality intersecting vibrant citrus and juicy apple. A touch of residual sugar balances out that searing acidity. There is a touch of petrol developing but this is still so fresh and youthful. And lip-smackingly good with spicy sautéed prawns. (MM)

Bideona Badiola Las Parcelas Blanco Rioja Alavesa DO, 2020, Rioja Spain ($38)

This 100% Viura comes from old vines in small plots as part of a program to highlight the historic vineyards of Rioja Alavesa. Part of the wine ferments in French oak barrels which provides texture and complexity without masking the freshness of the fruit. Bright and salty with a long mineral character on the finish. (DD)

Torres Salmos Priorat DOQ, 2017, Catalonia Spain ($40)

Having invested more than 15 million euro in research to mitigate and adapt to climate change, Miguel Torres is an inspiring leader in the wine industry. One of their latest projects has been regenerative agriculture. The success in the arid land of Priorat has proven that this form of viticulture can succeed anywhere if done properly. Rich and full-bodied with generous notes of prune, blackberries and black cherries mingling with dried herbs. Dusty tannins offer great structure to the broad palate. Delicious with grilled lamb. (MB)

Brash Higgins NDV Nero d’Avola McLaren Vale, 2021, Australia ($45)

The region of McLaren Vale has been an Australian leader in the exploration of Mediterranean grapes. There are many reasons for this. The grapes are more drought resistant, require less water and retain freshness despite the hot climate. Brad Hickey of Brash Higgins exemplifies this trend with this lip-smacking Nero d’Avola. High-toned with notes of dark plum, red cherries and violet lifted by fresh acid. Dusty tannins and herbal notes make the wine savoury. Bravo! (MB)

Hidden Bench Pinot Noir Beamsville Bench VQA ‘Felseck Vineyard’, 2019, Ontario Canada ($48)

Felseck Pinot Noir impresses with its lightness of touch. This doesn’t mean it is lacking in flavour though. Crunchy sour red cherry and currants are nuanced by crush allspice flowers, dried thyme blossoms and a very subtle overlay of toasty wood. Tannins are skillfully extracted – silky yet with a confident grip. They give textural complexity to the palate which lingers with a graphite note. Fully certified organic in the vineyard and winery, Hidden Bench uses geothermal energy in the winery, solar panels for its storage facility and even provides electrical vehicle charging stations for customers free of charge. Members of ‘1% for the Planet’, the company contributes 1% of gross revenues to various environmental groups annually. (MM)

Roserock by Drouhin Oregon Pinot Noir Eola-Amity Hills AVA, 2017, Oregon USA ($50)

Hailing from a cool and more classic vintage in comparison to recent hot vintages, this Pinot Noir is pure, fresh and elegant with notes of sour cherries, red cherries and fresh strawberries. Notes of vanilla from new French oak are discreet and well-integrated. The silky tannins and voluptuous profile recall a fine 1er cru from Chambolle-Musigny. Stunning and a natural with grilled salmon. (MB)

Planeta Eruzione 1614 Carricante Sicilia DOC 2019, Sicily Italy ($50)

Grown at lofty elevations reaching 860 metres on the slopes of Mount Etna, this Carricante rings out with volcanic character. Smoky and flinty, it recalls earthy herbs, rocks and mountain blossoms. A smattering of Riesling brings out a classic diesel character. Very intense and linear with bracing acid balanced by a taut fleshiness. Juicy citrus notes draw out the finish. If you like your wines austere, you can drink this now. Otherwise try cellaring for another five years. The Planeta clan are leaders in Sicily. Besides helping elevate and disseminate the wines of the island and recuperating forgotten cultivars, they have also been at the forefront of sustainability, piloting programs like VIVA Sustainability & Culture and SOStain. (MM)

Matthiasson Chardonnay Oak Knoll AVA ‘Linda Vista Vineyard’, 2020, Napa Valley California ($60)

Not a ‘typical’ Napa Chardonnay, but a typical Matthiasson version certainly. From a certified organic, west Oak Knoll vineyard, a place that combines cool breezes and hot Napa sun, this demonstrates it balance. Ripe golden apple and melon with a subtle grace. The palate is open, showing neutral-wood aged fruit character, but with a vibrant, fresh acidity and bright lightness. Jill and Steve Matthiasson are leaders of sustainable practices in California, both on their owned and leased land as well as in support of their greater community. (BD)

QUENCH HOUSE WINES:

What the editors and writers of Quench are drinking at home and why.

Henry of Pelham Pinot Grigio Niagara Peninsula VQA, 2021, Ontario Canada ($16)

Light golden in colour with a minerally, white peach nose. Medium-bodied and dry with peach and lemon flavours. This is well-balanced with a good mouthfeel and flavourful for this usually dull grape in Ontario. (TA)

Finca La Mascota Santa Ana Cabernet Franc Maipu, 2019, Mendoza Argentina ($18)

From a vineyard close to the Mendoza River, in the Andes foothills with rocky alluvial and clay loam soils. Up front red and black fruit with spicy hints followed by mulberry and cassis notes and some black pepper. This has approachable tannins and a solid finish. Perfect with pizza or pasta as well as a good pot roast. (TP)

Benjamin Bridge Nova 7 Gaspereau Valley, 2021, Nova Scotia Canada ($22)

Nova 7 is always aromatic, owing to the New York Muscat in its composition (the rest of the blend is made up of Ortega and Geishenheim). This vintage was particularly good both in quantity and quality for this grape, and its personality shines through this bottling. Passion fruit, guava, nectarine, lilies and orange grove. At 31g/l sugar, this is actually slightly drier than usual which I quite enjoy... I always love this wine, but it may be my favorite vintage of it to date. (BD)

Tantalus Bear Chardonnay Okanagan Valley BC VQA, 2021, British Columbia Canada ($25)

An attractive, restrained nose of lemon, pear, pastry dough and flint leads to a succulent, juicy palate where the backbone is firm and texture creamy. This lingers appetisingly. I have long said that Chablis is the ultimate house wine. Alas, it

WEINGUT EBNER-EBENAUER

Ebner-Ebenauer

I tasted the wines of Marion and Manfred Ebner-Ebenauer for the first time earlier this year and was impressed by their incredible balance, elegance, precision and depth. A small producer in the Niederöstereich, seek these out. The wines are highly regarded in Austria and their international profile will continue to grow as the rest of the world discovers these compelling, delicious and immensely drinkable wines.

Ebner-Ebenauer Grüner Veltliner Weinviertel DAC, 2021, Niederöstereich Austria ($36)

Lovely, expansive and well-balanced with an inspired combination of fruit purity, white pepper, spice, steely salinity and stony minerality. Finishes long, focussed and precise. (GB)

Ebner-Ebenauer Chardonnay, 2021, Niederöstereich Austria ($48)

From limestone-rich soils, this bright, expansive wine shows aromas and flavours of ripe pears and citrus, elegantly structured with juicy texture, spicy and complex with a mouth-watering, deliciously long aftertaste. (GB)

Ebner-Ebenauer Grüner Veltliner ‘Ried Hermanschachern’, 2021, Niederöstereich Austria ($55)

From steep, south-facing slopes with warm loess soils and high limestone content comes this dynamic, focussed wine with depth and concentration while still maintaining a refined elegance. White pepper, ripe apples and tropical fruit with a salty core, juicy acidity, linear, yet softly textured with compelling tension between fruit and acidity on the persistent finish. (GB)

Ebner-Ebenauer Grüner Veltliner ‘Ried Bürsting’, 2021, Niederöstereich Austria ($55)

Ried Bürsting is situated on a high plateau with clay soils which contribute to the wine’s structured core. The must undergoes twenty-four hours maceration on the skins before fermenting spontaneously in used 500-litre oak casks and small stainless steel tanks. Spicy, complex, concentrated and juicy with a tight core, broad structure and loads of potential. This one will take some time to fully express itself, but it will be worth the wait. (GB)

Ebner-Ebenauer Grüner Veltliner ‘Alte Reben’, 2021, Niederöstereich Austria ($68)

From 70+ year old vines, the grapes are harvested at the end of October in a state of high Auslese ripeness. The must ferments spontaneously in used oak casks without temperature control. Expansive with big shoulders the wine shows an abundance of aromas and flavours of yellow stone fruit, baked apple, citrus and fresh herbs, full-bodied, deep, complex and luxurious, but with incredible freshness from the firm backbone of acidity. A versatile wine for the dinner table to serve with everything from lighter poultry to rich, rustic meat dishes to aged cheeses. (GB)

Ebner-Ebenauer Riesling ‘Alte Reben’, 2021, Niederöstereich Austria ($68)

These old vines only produce a few clusters which are harvested at advanced Auslese ripeness. The botrytis berries (approx. 20%) are processed separately and later blended with the must of the healthy grapes and fermented in stainless steel. Compelling aromas of ripe stone fruit, floral with juicy fruit on the palate, spice, texture, complexity and depth, with a finely balanced, focussed acidity and long persistent aftertaste. (GB)

Ebner-Ebenauer Weißer Burgunder ‘Alte Reben’, 2021, Niederöstereich Austria ($68)

Firm acidity imparts energy to this finely textured white, which features a streak of seashell minerality, underscored by aromas and flavours of white blossoms, pear, citrus, hazelnuts and spice. Firmly textured, juicy acidity and a persistent savouriness on the refined finish. (GB)

Ebner-Ebenauer Grüner Veltliner ‘Black Edition’, 2018, Niederöstereich Austria ($100)

Voluminous and textural with complexity and depth, loads of bright, ripe, fresh fruit, spice, and nutty notes, with firm, but balanced acidity that cuts through the thickness, giving this energy and intensity, leading to a complex, mouthwatering and mineral-infused aftertaste. Delicious now, but will continue to get better with time in the cellar. (GB)

Ebner-Ebenauer Chardonnay ‘Black Edition’, 2020, Niederöstereich Austria ($100)

Stylish and concentrated, with a creamy texture, the aromas tend toward peach, white apricot, lime, fresh herbs and honey, incredible balance, seamless from start to juicy finish. Tempting now, but still tight and a little closed. This is going to be a stunner with some age. (GB)

is difficult to find the most basic one for under $30 these days. Tantalus is billing its young vines Bear Chardonnay as Chablis-style. It is a bit fruitier that its French reference, but it does have that steely finish – and a huge yum factor (MM)

Fontana Dominio de Fontana TempranilloGraciano Uclés DO, 2019, Castilla-La Mancha Spain ($27)

Exuberant and fresh with bright black and red fruit, liquorice, spice, integrated tannins, breadth and deliciously balanced. Really a bargain for the quality and a great match whether for Tuesday night pizza or Saturday rib roast. (DD)

Monte Bernardi Sangió Chianti Classico DOCG, 2019, Tuscany Italy ($32 - 1L)

Juicy and simple but so authentic and highly satisfying. And I love the fact that it comes in a 1L bottle! Notes of red cherries mingling with subtle tomato stalk, dried herbs and a touch of balsamic combined with dusty tannins and crisp acid bring you right to the Chianti Classico region. No special occasion needed. It will make your weekdays brighter, especially if served with take-out pizza Margherita or home-made pasta al pomodoro. (MB)

Hatzidakis Skitali Santorini PDO, 2019, Greece ($65)

100% Assyritiko. This wine is pure pleasure of salt, sun and sea. It opens up with white floral notes, lemon, lemon skin, smoke and flint. Volcanic soils and time on lees add depth in aroma connecting to a plate that is rich and vibrant with length and poise. Citrus and a sweet-like creamy Meyer lemon meringue feel to the palate, it is held together by texture of pith. (CS)

BEST OF THE REST:

Wines that are Recommended and Highly Recommended by our experienced panel of tasters listed by price from low to high:

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED

Bachelder Les Villages Gamay Niagara Peninsula VQA, 2020, Ontario Canada ($26)

A beautifully balanced marriage of Niagara-on-the-Lake and Beamsville Bench fruit - the former delivering the body and the latter the refinement. Brilliant fruit character, a firm mineral texture and fleshy, fruit-forward palate. Super value that over-delivers in typical Bachelder fashion. (BD)

Peak Cellars Broken Granite Gewürztraminer Okanagan Valley BC VQA, 2020, British Columbia Canada ($30)

Think Alsace in style, with floral rose petal, ginger and garden herb hints up front. A well balanced, complex and layered, gently viscous palate with candied ginger, floral notes and underlying spice. There’s added texture here from a little judicious barrel time. This superb wine takes Okanagan ‘Gew’ to a whole new level. (TP)

Sandhill Sangiovese Rosé Okanagan Valley BC VQA ‘Block C9’, 2021, British Columbia Canada $30

Winemaker Sandy Leier likes Sangiovese for its natural acidity, which contributes to the vibrant and fresh fruit palate. Also, that natural acidity means, when the mercury soars, the fruit doesn’t drop out as much as some other varieties. The grapes come from a sun-drenched site below a rocky bluff on Sandhill’s Black Sage vineyard. 2021 saw the record-breaking heat dome at the end of June. The stressed vines shut down at a critical time, resulting in about a 2025% lower crop but more intense fruit. This wine is a pretty, pale copper colour, with red berry and stone fruits on the nose before a juicy cherry, peach and rhubarb palate through a lengthy end. A standout from the pack of 2021 BC rosés, it’s a delicious sipper that—thanks to the acidity and structure (from a little neutral French oak)—is also a seriously good food wine. (TP)

Domaine de L’R Le Canal des Grands Pièces Chinon AOC, 2020, Loire France ($32)

This represents all I love about Loire Cab Franc. It has that snappy bell pepper note, that green ‘love-or-hate’ herbaceousness, and a medium-bodied core of bright raspberry and cherry. Organically farmed old vines on gravel soils and a low-intervention treatment in concrete allow the complexity and pure fruit character to shine through. Benchmark, and oh so good. (BD)

Kir-Yianni L’Esprit du Lac Vieilles Vignes Rose Amyndeon PDO, 2021, Greece ($32)

Who says you can’t drink rosé year-round? I plan on having a bottle of this in my fridge at the ready for whenever I need a reminder of summer. Made from a saignée, or bleeding, of Kir-Yanni’s Kali Riza cuvée, this 100% Xinomavro rosé is gloriously bone dry. An attractive nose of rose and stone leads to raspberry and cherry pits on the fleshy, chewy palate. Definitely more flavour and character than its pale colour would suggest. That assertive acidity and salty tang is guaranteed to refresh. A mouth-cleansing, food worthy rosé. (MM)

Tawse Gamay Noir Twenty Mile Bench VQA ‘Cherry Avenue Vineyard’, 2019, Ontario Canada ($33)

Ruby colour with a cherry nose showing toasty oak and vanilla notes. Medium-bodied, dry and juicy with sour cherry flavour carried on fresh acidity. A chillable wine. (TA)

Kir-Yianni Kali Riza Xinomavro Vieilles Vignes Amyndeon PDO, 2019, Greece ($34)

Kali Riza – or ‘good root’ refers to the low yielding, 60-plus year old Xinomavro vines that grace this bottling. Evocative in its fragrances of allspice flower, rose, pomegranate and hibiscus. An exotic red fruit character is dried but not pruny and repeats on the palate. Tannins are textured with a scratchy, grainy sensation. The depth of fruit fleshes them out. And there is a freshness, like biting into a crunchy cranberry. Best with a meal. Yes, lamb sausages would certainly do. (MM)

Tawse Chardonnay Vinemount Ridge VQA ‘Quarry Road Vineyard’, 2019, Ontario Canada ($35)

Light gold in colour. Toasty, apple nose with oak spice and vanilla notes. Medium-bodied, dry, yellow apple flavour with well-integrated oak and lively acidity. (TA)

Cantina del Pino Nebbiolo Langhe DOC, 2020, Italy ($35)

Selected from the estate’s youngest plots within the Barbaresco denomination, this Nebbiolo highlights the grape’s fresh, elegant charms without sacrificing its intrinsic structure. Beautiful rose and crush raspberry permeate throughout. There is substance and depth that speaks to the wine’s breed. Those powdered silky tannins are yielding, bringing instant drinkability. A lovely introduction to this under-the-radar producer. (MM)

Antonio Madeira Vinhas Velhas Dão DOC, 2018, Portugal ($40)

A rising star on the Dão wine scene, Antonio Madeira’s wines are finding more clarity vintage after vintage. This leads with dark bramble berry fruit on the nose and a pleasant earthiness countered by a high note of floral, rock rose aroma. The palate arrives with flavours of chalky sweet ripe concentrated currant and black fruit with sandy texture… Tart and concentrated with elegant power, deep in tone and energy. (CS)

Tetramythos Cabernet Sauvignon Natur, 2019, Peloponnese Greece ($40)

Elegant, bright and rich with juicy aromas and flavours of red fruit, mulberry and plum, minty with well-integrated, slightly drying tannins and a ripe, stylish and crisp finish. A lively bright Cabernet that has the ability as a versatile food wine. (DD)

Craven Syrah Stellenbosch WO ‘The Firs Vineyard’, 2020, South Africa ($44)

What beautiful purity and animated personality! I couldn’t help fall hard for this Syrah. Ageing in neutral oak barrels encourages the fruit is to shine – and it does. Black cherry, blackberry and raspberry are interwoven with violet and black pepper. Seductively and supply textured, it seems to swaddle the palate while remaining graceful and vivid. There is also a modesty to this too as it clocks in at under 13% alcohol. A profusion of sweet spice drives the finish. (MM)

Black Hills Estate Winery Nota Bene Okanagan Valley BC VQA, 2020, British Columbia Canada ($45)

Black Hills winemaker, Ross Wise MW continues to make his mark on this BC icon. And we continue to be impressed. Cabernet Franc (42%) leads this 2020 blend, with 33% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24% Merlot and 1% Petit Verdot. Forward notes of vibrant red and black fruit invite with hints of camphor, spice and a little schist. The entry is layered and luscious, with black cherry, damson, cassis, mocha, clove and fennel. Already very approachable, with finely interwoven tannins underpinning the generous but elegant mouthfeel, it is brightened by fresh acidity. Soft and supple, with a spicy background and sagebrush

through the lengthy finish. Overall defined by purity of fruit and discretely managed oak, this wine reflects the long and warm ripening season - a return to a more ‘normal’ vintage following a series of extremes. (TP)

Trail Estate V4 Unfiltered Chardonnay Prince Edward County VQA, 2019, Ontario Canada ($50)

Showing its natural winemaking with funky, lifted aromas of green apple and pithy lemon. The lithe, juicy mouthfeel wakes up the palate. At just under 11%, it is a crushable, drink-youngto-harness-its-energy style. (BD)

1 Mill Road Home Block Pinot Noir Naramata Bench Okanagan Valley BC VQA, 2020, British Columbia Canada ($55)

The third release from the post-Laughing Stock project of Cynthia and David Enns marks David’s 20th vintage. The 1 Mill Road site is a glacier sculpted, southwest tilted bluff overlooking Okanagan Lake. Made from a single clone - Dijon 115, hand harvested and fermented in 2200L French Oak tanks. The slow ripening season yielded red berry and baking spice aromas leading to a cherry, cranberry and gently savoury palate buoyed by bright acidity and wrapped in elegant tannins through a lingering finish. A stellar anniversary wine! (TP)

Envínate Táganan Vinos Atlánticos, 2020, Canary Islands Spain ($60)

Listán Negro combined with a field blend of other grapes raised on elevated volcanic soils against the Atlantic. It is exactly what you might conjure in your mind - to see and taste. Smoky white and black pepper with sultry spice and florals are underlined by just ripe red berry and currants. This is serious rustic pleasure and certain ecstasy. A wine ready to reveal itself with time in a decanter or a few years in cellar. (CS)

Betz Family Winery La Serenne Syrah Yakima Valley AVA, 2018, Washington USA ($80)

From Dick Boushey’s eponymous vineyard in Yakima Valley, which has long been a source of Washington’s finest Syrah. It is the highest altitude, coolest site that Betz works with and the last to be picked. A full-on Syrah in terms of flavour, the 2018 is decidedly gamey with evocative bacon fat and smoked meat nuances. The 70% whole cluster inclusion lends an olive accent eventually making way for scented lavender. Plush cassis suffuses the elegantly structured, glossy textured palate. Despite all that intensity, this never becomes tiresome or heavy. Just gorgeous joyful drinking. (MM)

Lamy-Caillat Saint-Aubin AOC ‘En l’Ebaupin’, 2018, Burgundy France ($220)

One of my favorite wine surprises so far of 2022. This lovely bottle was chosen, producer unknown, at a restaurant. What a fortunate choice! It was so expressive of well-made Burgundy Chardonnay, a perfect mix of honest fruit and rocky salinity - transportive in nature. The palate was a case study in balance, length and elegance; not one single thing out of line. This is the first bottling from this vineyard by this micro-domaine. I would not pass up any opportunity to try their other wines (almost all from Chassagne-Montrachet). Superb now, but drinking window is wide (5-15 years). (BD)

RECOMMENDED

Marchesi Alfieri La Tota Barbera d’Asti DOCG, 2019, Piedmont Italy ($26)

Vanilla and licorice laced black cherry greets the nose and echoes on the palate. There is vibrancy to the fruit thanks to juicy, integrated acidity. Tannins are tame and smooth. An appealing hint of espresso brings it to a close. This is neither too rich, nor over concentrated as can sometimes be the case with overly ambitious Barbera. Instead, La Tota is quite chuggable. But watch out - that 14.5% does sneak up. (MM)

Strewn Winery Cabernet Sauvignon Niagara-on-the-Lake VQA, 2017, Ontario Canada ($28)

Intense, deep purple colour. Cedary, ripe plum and black cherry bouquet with cassis notes. Full-bodied, dry and well-structured with lingering flavours of black fruits, this finishes with bright acidity and firm tannins. (TA)

Pearle Morissette Roselana Niagara Peninsula VQA, 2021, Ontario Canada ($28)

One of my fave rosé wines. The blend (which has varied in the past) is Pinot Noir and Gamay (pressed after a few days of skin contact) with just a touch of whole cluster, longer macerated Syrah. The result is a deep, unctuous rosé with rich, savoury red and black berry compote, fresh cranberry and herbs. It is dry and beautifully balanced with appetizing tannins and bright acidity. Such a versatile and food friendly wine. (BD)

2027 Cellars Gamay Twenty Mile Bench VQA ‘Armbrust Vineyard’, 2020 Ontario Canada ($30)

I always notice an elegance from Gamay grown in this vineyard - no matter who gets their hands on it - and this one is no exception. This is the first time winemaker Kevin Panagapka is working with Gamay from Armbrust. It is a refined wine, more fruit driven than savoury or floral. Delicious. (BD)

Domaine de l’Aigle Chardonnay Limoux AOC, 2020, France ($35)

Bright, light straw in colour. Spicy, apple nose with a touch of oak. Medium-bodied, dry, apple and green pineapple flavours with notes of struck flint and a thread of minerality. A beautifully balanced wine. (TA)

Mac Forbes Chardonnay Yarra Valley, 2018, Victoria Australia ($40)

Mac Forbes continues to search for greater clarity in his wines of the Yarra Valley. The Chardonnay presents Chablis-like energy, with only slight reduction and an essence of green and lemon fruit. The palate is dry with a distinct clarity and freshness in flavour. Each element of light fruit and structure presents as so fresh and clean. Chardonnay that defies expectations. (CS)

Vinca Minor Carignan Mendocino, 2017, California USA ($40)

Old vine and dry farmed Carignan opens up with ripe plum and game on the nose. The wine brings more with a palate that is like saline crusted dried currant and blue fruit. Bright intensity of flavours yet easy going and light in the middle of its fruit core. Very clean as the wine dances over your palate, with enough structure to be serious yet playful. (CS)

Southbrook Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Four Mile Creek VQA, 2019, Ontario Canada ($44)

Sitting at just over 13% ABV and showing a nice balance of grape ripeness to freshness. Aromas of black fruits, cedar branch, roasted green pepper, and pronounced oak spice. A savory wild character is noted, owing perhaps to the indigenous yeast fermentation lasting approximately 25 days. The oak should find more subtlety in 3-5 years. (BD)

Viña Cobos Bramare Malbec Luján de Cuyo, 2019, Mendoza Argentina ($55)

For Malbec fans looking to seriously splash out, Viña Cobos Bramare from the Mendoza’s heartland of Luján de Cuyo is a seductive, sumptuous, layered mouthful. It has all the intensity of its high-altitude climes with the warm generosity of the culture. Scents of violet, lavender, black plum and baking spice waft from the glass. The palate is replete with blueberries and black currants enveloped in velvety tannins. There is a sense of sweetness imparted by ageing in American oak, but it is easily digested and finishes dry. (MM)

Gran Moraine Drop Stone Chardonnay Yamhill Carlton AVA, 2017, Oregon USA ($65)

This is a delightful Chardonnay, that with time will open up from its reductive state of warm bruised apple and creamy lactic aromas kept in check by flint and wet stone. The palate is clean, precise and pleasant with ripe, round apple to citrus-like fruit, pleasing mouthfeel and moderate length. (CS)

Weingut Rabl Alte Reben Grüner Veltliner Kamptal DAC Reserve ‘Reid Dechant’, 2019, Niederöstereich Austria ($66)

This wine is just so inviting. The nose is showy with an interplay between rich pineapple, a tropical note, dried legume and smoked sage. The palate is citrusy, but with enough complexity to make me want to see this wine age a bit more to invoke its savouriness. (BD)

Austin Hope Cabernet Sauvignon, 2020, Paso Robles California USA ($75)

Expressive and approachable right off the get-go with aromas and flavours of ripe fresh red and black berries, cherries, currants, smoke and spice with lush, velvety tannins, mouth-filling and rich with a needed bit of acidity on the finish. Not all that complex, but well structured and well made and quite pleasant to drink with an assortment or dishes or just on its own. (GB)

Artemis Karamolegos Pyritis Mega Cuvée Santorini PDO, 2019, Greece ($79)

A wine that is composed of Assyrtiko grapes with an average age of 100 plus years sourced from 3 vineyards. There is a youthful energy to this wine as it combines aromas of apple and pear with salted sugared lemon peel. A wine that is coming together and will benefit with time in the cellar. The palate is tangy apple, pear and candied lemon sprayed with salt of the sea. Very clean and precise. (CS)

BEFORE…

Sparkling wines, fino sherries, other wines that would traditionally be served before dinner.

Domaine Bergeville Colfo, 2021, Québec Canada ($9 - 250ml)

Focusing solely on sparkling wine, this biodynamic producer from Québec never disappoints. This Colfo is a blend of Riesling and Seyval Blanc with a touch of Vidal. The second fermentation takes place in the can and the wine is not filtered, hence the cloudy color. The result? A dry, light, tangy and refreshing pétillant dangerously easy to drink. Perfect for brunch or as an aperitif. (MB)

Okanagan Crush Pad Narrative XC Method Rosé Okanagan Valley BC VQA, 2018, British Columbia Canada ($24)

Made from Pinot Noir and Chardonnay in state-of-the-art Charmat tanks, where the wine spends 90 days - as in the Roman numeral ‘XC’. Medium copper salmon in the glass with a lively stream and persistent mousse. Forward wild red berry notes lead to a strawberry raspberry palate and a little earthiness. Creamy and nicely textured, with a crisp dry finish. Think oysters on the half shell with mignonette, or something equally seductive. (TP)

Kew Rosalie Sparkling Niagara Peninsula VQA, 2018, Ontario Canada ($24)

From estate grown Pinot Noir grapes. The nose is dominated by tart red fruits – cranberry and wild strawberry. The broad and fleshy palate is kept in check with plentiful, small bubbles and an uplifting acidity. Just over two years on lees gives a more interesting mouthfeel and savoury nose. I’m tucking a few bottles away and predict they will be great over the next 5 or so years. (BD)

Silvio Carta Vermouth Bianco Servito, Sardinia Italy ($50)

Smells of sun-baked herbs, orange blossoms, figs and lemon oils. On the palate, a perfect amount of sweetness to satisfy those who prefer a cocktail like a spritz or gin-tonic. On its own, the texture is smooth and slightly mouth-coating, with a caramel note lingering. With an added squeeze of lemon, it becomes pure magic. (BD)

Equiano Original

This is simple: Equiano Original is exactly what a premium dark rum should smell like, look like and taste like. There’s a bit of wood on the nose and tongue, but it’s not an oak bomb. The sweetness, chocolate, orange and coffee is all in here, but no one single flavour overwhelms this clean, integrated and balanced spirit. Perfect after-dinner sipping perfection. (CSO)

Equiano Light

From the nose, which is all dewy grass, rock sugar and a little hint of citrus, you’d never guess how much tropical fruit, cinnamon and delicate heat is lying in wait. It’s rich, round and full-bodied, which most people wouldn’t expect in a “white” rum. It’s not exactly “white” rum, of course, since it has a golden hue. That’s by design, since the Equiano project is also about getting consumers to think beyond the white, amber and dark classifications. Rum is a far more complex and nuanced category than many realize. (CSO)

Tia Maria Matcha Cream Liqueur

Nobody is likely to have had this innovation on their bingo card, especially since, as far as we can tell, Matcha Cream represents Tia Maria’s first attempt at brand extension. And, as unlikely as a matcha cream liqueur might sound, it’s quite tasty and works well in place of cream in a White Russian and similar drinks. It’s subtly herbal, a little less sweet than, say, most Irish creams and has a hue I’m going to call “creamy Grinch.” (CSO)

G.E. Massenez Crème de Framboise

Fresh raspberries have a lovely little sour note—a dimension to the fruit that few raspberry liqueurs manage to capture. Happy to report that G.E. Massenez Crème de Framboise has beat the odds with this obviously well-made liqueur. It’s light on its feet, just sweet enough and, unlike many fruit liqueurs, has a distinctly fresh and clean taste. (CSO)

Bottega Gianduia Liquore

An entirely unexpected pleasure, this liqueur is a rich and chocolatey liquid version of Gianduja, a hazelnut and chocolate spread (or bar) that was invented in Torino. What’s nice about Bottega’s creative expression of it is that it’s neither heavy nor sweet. (CSO)

BEER

Allagash Brewing Co. Allagash White, Portland ME, USA (5.2% ABV, 355mL can/bottle)

One of the most popular beers among craft lovers, the Allagash White is an award-winning interpretation of the classic Belgian-style wheat beer. Brewed with oats, malted wheat, and raw wheat and spiced with the brewery’s own special blend of coriander and Curaçao orange peel. The beer is the perfect example of simple done well, with a lightly hazy pale appearance and a taste of light wheat and coriander being the most prominent. Perfect with potato chips or, if you’d

C’est What Durham Brewing Al’s Cask Ale, Pickering ON, Canada (4.1% ABV, 473mL can)

A fun development of the past year was the wonders of solid cask ale from Toronto’s famous spot for Ontario craft has become available in stores thanks to the pub’s formalized partnership with Durham Brewing in Pickering. This all-cascade, malt-forward Pale Ale in the tradition of an English Bitter contains nitro, ensuring that it has the closest feel to a pint of proper cask. Copper in colour with earthy floral and citrus notes that work well with caramel toasty malt, and biscuit in a fairly light and smooth body. The beer finishes a touch dry. (RL)

Tooth and Nail Brewing Vim and Vigor, Ottawa ON, Canada (5.2% ABV, 355mL can)

One of the best beers in the province made at the nation’s capital. Tooth and Nail’s award-winning North German Pilsner with an American twist is a favourite among Ontario beer lovers, bars, and bottleshops. Expect some wildflower and grass hop notes on the nose and going right into flavours of light pepper and a touch of biscuit in a wonderfully crisp and slightly bitter finish. (RL)

Siren Craft Brew Off Beat Bohemian Pilsner, Wokingham Berkshire, UK (5.2% ABV, 440mL can)

Siren Craft Brew’s nautical theme is related highly to their ethos, believing that great beer is something to be discovered and there’s plenty of adventure to be found if you dive into it. They’re known as much for their highly flavoured and bold beers as they are for their understated and carefully made subtle ones. The Off Beat is a favourite among the staff and makes use of the Haná variety of barley, first developed and grown in Czech Moravia and used in the first ever Pilsner lager. Light citrus notes and grassiness work well with the bready malt base, leading towards a slightly bitter and dry finish. (RL)

Superflux Beer Co. Colour and Shape, Vancouver BC, Canada (6.5% ABV, 473mL can)

A beer both made in BC as well as Ontario, this hazy American-style IPA is the flagship for the hip Vancouver brewery Superflux and is generously hopped with citra, giving it a healthy punch of citrus and tropical flavour notes. Juicy, slightly bitter, and dangerously crushable for a 6.5% ABV beer. (RL)

Godspeed Brewing Co. Bůh Originální Ležák, Toronto ON, Canada (4.6% ABV, 355mL can)

Godspeed has never been ashamed of their love of lagers, particularly those of the Czech masters at Budějovický Budvar, otherwise known as Budweiser Budvar or Czechvar or those at Pilsner Urquell. The Bůh Originální Ležák is a fantastic tribute to the former, using a double decoction mash process and twelve week lagering time. The 100% whole cone saaz hops and floor-malted pilsner malt come in beautifully with its notes of grass and just a touch of smoke and spice, all in a crisp, slightly dry finish. (RL)

Local Brewing Co. Sixty-Nine Pils, San Francisco CA, USA (4.1% ABV, 473mL can)

It’s admittedly hard not to make “nice” just the entire note listed here, but there’s so much good this proudly queer-owned brewery is doing in terms of creating a space for and supporting a more queer and inclusive space in the brewing world. The Sixty-Nine Pils is refreshing and light, with the enigma hops providing subtle notes of white wine and berries. (RL)

Rorschach Brewing Co. Quantum Leap DDH IPA, Toronto ON, Canada (5.5% ABV, 355mL can)

Rorschach Brewing is defi nitely a brewery that is understated in Toronto, as they mostly get a lot of press for their sours or heavily fruited beers. But the fact of the matter is their IPAs and pilsners are very subtle and well-made, and the Quantum Leap is no exception. The beer was brewed with oats and wheat, giving it a nice smooth creamy texture and the addition of galaxy and vic secret hops make for an explosion of tropical fruit, apricot, peach, orange, grapefruit, and a little bit of pine. Plus Ziggy says that it’s Dr. Sam Beckett’s beer of choice as he leaps from life to life, putting things right that once went wrong, and hoping each time that his next leap will be the leap home. (RL)

Prince Edward Island Brewing Co./Gahan Restaurants Blueberry Ale, Charlottetown PEI, Canada (4.5% ABV, 473mL can)

PEI Brewing has a number of brands under their name, one such made with the Gahan chain of restaurants that tie in the sense of history and place of PEI. The Blueberry Ale is one of the brand’s most popular, an unfi ltered wheat beer made with Atlantic Canada blueberries. Expect a somewhat fl owery aff air with light notes of citrus, pie crust, and, you guessed it, blueberry. The blueberry here really makes itself known in both the aroma and taste. (RL)

Hop Valley Brewing Co. Bubble Stash IPA, Eugene OR, USA (6.2% ABV, 473mL can)

Cryo Hops are something of a new novelty in brewing these days. It’s a process that separates whole leaf hops at extremely low temperatures to get to the concentrated lupulin and bract. This preserves the essential oils and resins and the fi nishing product is a beer that focuses more on the fl avours imparted on the hops with less of the bitterness that you might come to expect from it. One such example of the fruits of this process is the Bubble Stash IPA, which uses mosaic Cryo Hops to make a beer that still has some resin bitterness, but focuses more on the tropical notes and a touch of sweetness. It’s quite light, with any sign of bitterness leaving mid-way through the palate. (RL)

Three Sheets Brewing Puerto Elguino Cerveza, Port Elgin ON, Canada (4.2% ABV, 473mL can)

Three Sheets is a brewery just recently opened to the public this year, with owner Jeff Carver and partners Cynthia Auer and brewmaster Curt Thomas kicking off the offi cial launch party this past June. However Three Sheets is already well known throughout the community, as they’ve been making beer for the Saugeen Golf Club as well as the fl agship beers for the Wismer House. The Puerto Elguino Cerveza is a beer that just has to be paired with the take out food available adjacent to the brewery. Filtered, pale straw colour with fl avours of light biscuit and corn in a quick dry fi nish. (RL)

Beyond the Pale Brewing Co. Yummy!, Ottawa ON, Canada (5.4% ABV, 473 mL can)

Beyond the Pale is one of those much-beloved breweries of Ontario. Talk to any brewery in the Ottawa valley and you’ll fi nd that many career brewers fi rst learned the ropes there either by working with them or by just coming over and asking questions. The appropriately named Yummy! is a north east pale ale brewed with southern cross and citra hops and generously dry hopped with mosaic. Hazy in appearance and smooth in mouthfeel, fl avours of orange, tangerine, melon, and peach hit nicely with surprisingly little to no bitterness. Yummy indeed! (RL)

Bow & Arrow Brewing Co. Savage Times Sour IPA, Albuquerque NM, USA (6% ABV, 473mL can)

Founded in 2016 by Shyla Sheppard and her wife Dr. Missy Begay, Bow & Arrow have been making some incredible beers while also paying tribute to their personal origin story and the land they live in. A notable initiative they’ve put on has been the Native Land Beer Campaign, an IPA collaboration in which other breweries can raise awareness about ancestral Native land while also raising funds to Native communities and organizations. Their Savage Times Sour IPA is a fan favourite, fi nally put into can form. Slightly dank resin notes with a heaping level of tropical fruit notes and a light amount of acidity. (RL)

Collective Arts Brewing Get It Dry-Hopped Blonde Ale, Hamilton ON, Canada (5% ABV, 473ML can)

Collective Arts have always been good for collaboration, but things are taken to a whole other level with this collaboration with hip hop duo Run The Jewels. Featuring label artwork by Jordy García aka BLUMOO, the beer is a tropical fruit and citrus twist on a light blonde ale. It’s defi nitely a beer that’ll have you going “Ooh la la, ah, oui oui.” (RL)

Necromancer Brewing Co. Kill Switch, Pittsburgh PA, USA (6.7% ABV, 473mL)

Necromancer has a really fun concept behind it in that they seek to “resurrect” old styles of beers, while still making it something uniquely theirs. Utilizing a distinctly horror theme (because why wouldn’t you with a name like Necromancer?), Kill Switch is a Red Rye IPA that pours a beautiful amber and has fl avours ranging from orange marmalade to berries with that a nice rye bread note all rounded out by caramel. (RL)

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