53 minute read
THE BUYING GUIDE
All wines listed are recommended by our experienced panel of tasters. Each wine is rated based on its varietal character, representation of style and/or region, balance and price-quality ratio. Readers should assess these, and all wines, using the same criteria. Browse our experts’ tasting notes to find the wines that may appeal to your taste or pique your interest to try something new. After all, one of the best parts about wine is the discovery. The prices listed are approximate retail prices and will likely vary from jurisdiction to jurisdiction. A large number of these wines can be purchased across Canada and the USA, so check with your local private wine store or liquor board for availability.
Our tasters are Tony Aspler (TA), Gurvinder Bhatia (GB), Michelle Bouffard (MB), Michaela Morris (MM), Tim Pawsey (TP), Christopher Sealy (CS), Brie Dema (BD), Donatella Dicca (DD), Christine Sismondo (CSO) and Robin LeBlanc (RL).
Stellar Values (Buy by the Case):
Incredible values that overdeliver with respect to their quality/price ratios. Ideal for everyday drinking and entertaining. Wines in this category retail for less than $25.
Fattoria di Piazzano Ventoso Sangiovese IGT Toscana, 2019, Tuscany Italy ($17)
Dense purple in colour. Cedary, cherry bouquet with oak spice and a note of vanilla. Medium-bodied, dry and firmly structured with sour cherry and blackcurrant flavours. Beautifully balanced with ripe tannins. (TA)
Dehesa La Granja Vino della Terra Castilla y León, 2015 Castilla y León Spain ($21)
This is the perfect red to drink when you seek comfort on a cool night. Lush with vibrant notes of plum, licorice and a touch of iodine, vanilla and sweet tobacco. Tempting to drink on its own but the firm tannins and bright acidity makes this wine an ideal partner with grilled lamb, ribs or - for a simpler night - hamburgers. Great value. (MB)
Clos Roussely L’Escale Sauvignon Blanc Touraine AOC, 2020, Loire Valley France ($22)
An everyday wine that splits the defense and scores with those who love and those who hate Sauvignon Blanc. We begin with joyous primary fruit aromas of apple, pear and grapefruit that direct you to ripeness akin to New Zealand SB. Then, the palate drives with verve and lemon citrus zest, grass, herbal and vegetal energy. There is a Sancerre-like, saline minerality to the chalky texture but this wine is about serious fun. Great value and will satisfy all at the table - food and friends! (CS)
De Angelis Rosato Marche IGT, Le Marche Italy ($22)
Without question, some of the best value wines in the world are grown in Italy’s Marche region. Located on the east-central coast along the Adriatic, Marche is still predominantly rural with a strong agricultural spirit. It might not have the cachet of Tuscany, but that may be why this region is still able to offer wines at bargain deals compared to its Mediterranean big brother. The strong culture of agriculture and attachment to the land perhaps also resulted in a strong attachment to the native grapes of the region. All of De Angelis’s vineyards are certified organically farmed. Fresh and zippy with strawberry, citrus and watermelon. A tremendous value from one of Marche’s most consistent producers. (GB)
Winery of Good Hope Syrah ‘Mountainside’, 2020, Stellenbosch South Africa ($23)
Radford Dale was founded in 1998 when Ben Radford and Alex Dale first made wines together. Their focus is on producing wines of character and place with minimal intervention and they fully accredited for environmental, ethical, and social-upliftment practices and are founding members of Premium Independent Wineries Of South Africa (PIWOSA). The Syrah is bright and vibrantly fresh with an abundance of juicy plum, strawberry and cherry, meaty and minerally with lifted acidity on the finish. (DD)
Kruger Wine Works Fram Shiraz Swartland WO, 2019, Coastal Region South Africa ($23)
Deep ruby in colour with a toasty, spicy, slightly smoky, blackberry bouquet. Full-bodied, dry, with blackberry and blackcurrant flavours and ripe tannins, this ends on a floral note. (TA)
Mary Taylor White Label Blanc Bordeaux AOC, 2020, Bordeaux France ($24)
(95% Sauvignon Blanc, 5% Semillon) Part of Taylor’s ‘White Label’ appellation focused series, this wine embodies the nature of Entre-deux-Mers and its undervalued dry whites. Easily recognizable as Sauvignon Blanc with upfront stone fruits, grapefruit, melon and white blossoms. It manages to present as refined yet powerful. Incredible value for its modest price point. (BD)
Mary Taylor White Label Rouge Anjou AOC, 2020, Loire Valley France ($24)
From complex vineyard soils spanning tuffeau, clay and slate, this is a very approachable yet serious Loire red. It is fleshy but taut, with showy black and red cherry and tart red plum. Smoke and rosemary enhance a beautifully lifted violet tone. Another amazing value wine from this négociant. Bonus points for its vineyard work being HVE (Haute Valeur Environnementale) certified. (BD)
La Motte Cabernet Sauvignon, 2018, Franschhoek South Africa ($25)
Deep purple in colour. Cedary, blackcurrant nose with leather, savoury dried herbs and a floral top note. Medium-bodied and dry with black plum and blackcurrant flavours, lively acidity and well-integrated oak. (TA)
OFF THE WALL (Absolutely worth a shot):
Unique, distinct, interesting wines from lesser-known grape varieties or regions that are worth tasting because they are that good. Don’t bypass them because they may be unfamiliar or judge them by the first taste. They are well made wines and your palate deserves to give them a shot even if it takes a little time to get to know them.
Marchesi Incisa della Rocchetta Grignolino d’Asti DOC, 2020, Piedmont Italy ($26)
So pale, this almost looks like a dark rosé. Aromas are a bit fleeting at first, slowly revealing strawberry, cranberry, rose and orange blossom. Slender and vertical with a lightness of texture though still scratchy in Grignolino tannins. Tart acidity makes the mouth water. The finish explodes and lingers with white pepper and florals. Believe me, this is a wine that grows on you. (MM)
Located in northern Okanagan’s Lake Country, Arrowleaf was established by the Zuppiger family when they immigrated to Canada from Switzerland. Now, 20 years later they have released British Columbia’s first ever Petite Arvine – the flagship grape of Switzerland’s Valais region. It is fermented
searingly dry and goes through malolactic fermentation - though it’s so zippy, you wouldn’t know it. Meadowy accents and a hint of stone fruit ripple across the palate fluidly. Aging is in neutral oak which seems to lend savoury nuance. I can’t wait to taste this wine as the vines get older. (MM)
Maurer Oszkár Kadarka Subotica PDO, 2020, Subotica-Horgoš Serbia ($27)
The Kadarka grape is of Eastern European origins - with some claiming that Serbia is its ancestral home. This bottling, from sandy soil vineyards located in Subotica, highlights its most approachable attributes: on the palate a low tannin expression, lots of juicy freshness and moderate abv (11.5%). It is an aromatic standout with red currant, strawberry, rosehip and wild herbs. Both the grape and the hands-off winemaking (only one racking, indigenous yeast fermentation, large neutral oak) are evident here, and they complement each other wonderfully. (BD)
Domaine Gayrard Loin de L’Oeil Gaillac AOP, 2018, South West France ($28)
Native grape to the southwest of France, Loin de L’Oeil (or Len de l’El in Occitan dialect) translates literally as ‘far from the eye’. The name may reflect the morphology of vine – a long stalk means that the bunch is far from the bud - but it also encapsulates the obscurity of this variety. Fermented and aged in new oak, it very honeyed with acacia, toasted almond and intense apple blossom aromas. Fairly substantial though not heavy this nutty, chewy white is comfortable in its generosity. An underlying minerality gives balance and even freshness. (MM)
Also known as Sudtirol, Alto Adige is heavily Austrian and German influenced. That shouldn’t be a surprise as Alto Adige was a part of Austria for hundreds of years. If fact, you could be forgiven, when traveling in the region, for forgetting that you are still in Italy. The influence is evident in the language, culture, food and the wines. Floral and spicy with lots of bright, cherry and wild berry aromas and flavours, a silky soft texture, tingling minerality and a juicy, lifted finish. (DD)
Château Boucasse les Jardins Philosophiques Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh Sec AOC, 2017, South West France ($30)
In France’s southwest, overlapping with the red wine appellation of Madiran, Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh specializes in sweet whites. Comparatively few are made dry or ‘sec’ like Château Boucasse’s les Jardins Philosophiques. Local grape Petit Courbu is complemented by Petit Manseng giving quince and honeyed aromas. Overt and extraverted, the palate presents sweet meadow flora and traces of tropical guava on a backbone of pink grapefruit acidity. A structured, expansive, unctuous white, it is ready to drink now with hearty fare. I’d also support putting a bottle away for another three or so years as a reasonably priced aging experiment. (MM) In a region that is best known for the Nebbiolo grape of the great red wines of Barolo, Barbaresco and Alto Piemonte, comes this intriguing white made from the hyper-local Erbaluce grape. Fresh notes of green things with a lovely mouth-watering character, floral notes, and a savoury, blanched almond finish. This will develop more complexity and minerality with a few years in the bottle. A versatile food wine having the ability to pair with everything from vegetarian dishes to fritto misto and soft cheeses. (GB)
Save Our Souls Sagrantino, 2017, Murray Darling Australia ($35)
Save Our Souls is the side project of winemaker minimalists William Downie & Jason Searle who met at renowned Pinot Noir producer Bass Phillip. In their words, “we don’t want accolades or shining medals, we just want to make delicious wines that punch above their weight, to be shared with friends.” But Sagrantino in Australia? The wine is much more approachable in its tannins than what an Umbrian Sagrantino drinker might expect, but it possesses density, fleshly, juicy dark fruit, and a savoury quality that just works. Bring on the charcuterie and braised meats. (GB)
Dark and bold with crushed red/black fruit, plenty of spice and herbs and earthy notes, creamy texture, firm and fleshy, but elegant tannins and a mineral finish. (DD)
Los Bermejos Listan Negro Lanzarote DO, 2018, Canary Islands Spain ($36)
On Lanzarote, the closest Canary Island to the west coast of the African continent, it’s so dry that each vine is planted in its own two-metre crater carved out of the volcanic soil and protected from the wind by a rock shield. Due to the challenging terrain, everything is hand-cultivated and harvested. Forward red berries, spice and vanilla notes precede a plush and juicy well-balanced palate defined by spice and mineral elements. Anise and clove notes are wrapped in approachable tannins through a lengthy end. (TP)
Kikelet Dry Furmint Tokaj PDO, 2018, Tokaj Hungary ($37)
Furmint is one of the world’s most interesting white grapes, yet it is relatively unknown. It reaches its apogee in the region of Tokaj in Hungary where the vines flourish on volcanic soils. Kikelet is the union between Loire native Stéphanie Berecz and her husband Zsolt who is from Hungary. The resulting wine is characterful, structured and mineral with notes of passion fruit and citrus. A world-class white. Absolutely stunning! (MB)
Forjas del Salnés Goliardo Tintos de Mar Rías Baixas DO, 2018, Galicia Spain ($45)
and refreshing reds like this. Goliardo is a rare red from Rías Baixas, which is much more famous for its Albariño-based whites. Here local grapes Caiño Tinto, Espadiero, Loureiro Tinto and Souson come together for a mouthful of succulent stones, briny olives and pepper-flecked black and red currants. Finessed, unimposing tannins make it a great red match with fish. It even held its own with mackerel when I tried it. (MM)
Maccario Dringenberg Luvaira Dolceacqua DOC, 2020, Liguria Italy ($48)
Liguria’s claim to fame, at least among tourists, is the mecca of Cinque Terre - a string of five fishing villages. Whatever wine you are drinking when you visit will be good thanks to the impossibly picturesque setting. But Liguria does make great wine that is well worth seeking out. Further up the coast is the pretty town of Dolceacqua and its equally lovely mid-weight reds made from the local Rossese di Dolceacqua grape. Maccario Dringenberg is among the top names. One of the estate’s cru bottlings, Luvaira is youthfully floral showing violet, orange blossom and lavender soap scents. The palate is wonderfully lithe with the gentlest of tannins. Plump cheerful raspberry is offset by tart cranberry and pleasant orange peel bitterness. VERY easy to drink especially when chilled. (MM)
CELLAR-WORTHY (Rewarding patience):
Wines that will not only benefit from some time in your cellar, but will evolve, develop and reward those with patience. Cellaring times are recommendations only and optimal drinking windows will depend on each individual wine lover’s personal preference.
Culmina Family Estate Winery Hypothesis Golden Mile Bench Okanagan Valley VQA, 2016, British Columbia Canada ($46)
A Merlot dominant blend yields lifted red and black fruit with wild bramble and earthy hints, before a palate of cassis, black cherry, dark plums, blackberry, leather, clove and pepper spice. Layered with supple tannins and velvet mouthfeel through a lingering, spicy finish. (TP)
Clos de L’Oratoire des Papes Châteauneuf-du-Pape AOC, 2019, Rhône Valley France ($56)
Rich and powerful yet elegant, this is spicy with concentrated notes of dried herbs, black olives, ripe raspberries and cassis. While the wine has great balance, it needs 7 to 10 years to come together and show its full potential. Classic and well-executed. A tribute to the talented winemaker Édouard Guérin. (MB)
(Merlot 50%, Cabernet Sauvignon 45%, Petit Verdot 5%) 2016 was an outstanding vintage in Bordeaux and there are many gems for the cellar at affordable prices. This is a great example. Lush and ripe yet fresh with notes of cocoa, plum, cedar and integrated vanilla. Already enjoyable to drink now but with time, the tannins will soften, and the wine will exude more depth. (MB)
The bouquet has many layers and the combination of rose petal, red cherry, black licorice, leather and sweet tobacco is very seductive. However, the palate is tight right now. With time, the dusty tannins will resolve and integrate, and this will show more equilibrium and complexity. Hold 7 to 10 years if you can. (MB)
Domaine Labet Chardonnay Côtes du Jura AOC ‘Les Varrons’, 2017, Jura France ($90)
I decided to taste this wine over two flower days in accordance with the biodynamic calendar as flower days are said to accentuate the floral aromatics for white wines raised with biodynamic methods. This Chardonnay is from one of the top natural wine producers of the Jura. Immediate notes of ripe golden apple and apple skin with subtle tones of sweet white florals, wet stone and the brightness of tart citrus. Day 2, the wine revealed more mellow and expansive aroma. Made in the ‘topped up’ style of Jura wines, it is crystal clear and showing harmonized reductive tones. On the palate, the Chardonnay hits you with intensity and verve. Angular citrus flavours and tension are key characters of the wine. Length and persistence for days. Decant and enjoy this wine over a few hours. (CS)
Galardi Terra di Lavoro Campania IGT, 2013, Campania Italy ($99)
Truly one of Campania’s great reds based on the flagship variety Aglianico. There is a healthy dose of Piedirosso which serves to soften. Time has also mollified tannins somewhat, though they are still chewy and firmly present as they spread across the palate. Lashings of licorice, smoke, earth and tobacco envelop black plum and dried cherry fruit. Already nine years old, this still has a solid five years of prime drinking ahead of it. If you get your hands on a more recent vintage, best to tuck it away for a couple of years. (MM)
Nicolas Feuillatte Palmes d’Or Brut Champagne AOC, 2006, Champagne France ($135)
Though co-op producer Nicolas Feuillatte is better known for high-volume, wallet-friendly Champagnes, Palmes d’Or is their flagship cuvée. It is an equal blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from vineyards located primarily in the Vallée de la Marne. The wine shows a striking balance, benefiting from the roundness, weight and fruit from the Pinot and the elegant, fine aromas and flavours of the Chardonnay. It carries just enough sugar to bring forward the body of the wine and drive the fresh-baked brioche notes. Drinking very well at present but could also be enjoyed over the next 5 to 7 years. (BD)
TOP SUSTAINABLE WINE PICKS:
Sustainability refers to social, economic and environmental practises. It is important to understand that it is a process and journey rather than a finite destination. No one is perfect and we make no claims as to the degree to which the practises of these producers align with varying global standards, guidelines and certifications. But, the wines selected for this category are from producers who appear engaged in sustainable practices and, in the opinion of the reviewers, deserve recognition. Of course, they also taste great.
Achieving balance when making Gewurztraminer is not easy. Too often, it becomes a caricature of itself by being too scented and flabby - definitely NOT the case with this wine! The talented Andrée Trapet produced an elegant and harmonious wine. Delicate notes of rose petal, lavender and litchi mingle with orange blossom, honey and red apple. The minerality and pleasant bitterness on the finish compensates for the soft acidity and the 14% abv is perfectly integrated. Impressive! (MB)
Domaine La Ferme Saint-Martin Les Terres Jaunes Beaumes-de-Venise AOC, 2019, Rhône Valley France ($27)
This wine is completely disorientating. While you expect to get a rich and dense red from Beaumes-de-Venise, Les Terres Jaunes is fresh and vibrant with juicy notes of red plum, black pepper and dried thyme. The wine is a blend of 80% Grenache and 20% Syrah made from vines planted between 250 and 500 metres of altitude on the Dentelles de Montmirail. While the brightness can be attributed to the location of the vineyard, very few producers manage to achieve that level of freshness. (MB)
Yalumba Bush Vine Grenache Barossa 2019 South Australia ($29)
Opening scents of candied red berries and cinnamon make way for more precise spiced plum and orange oil aromas. On the palate voluptuous raspberry and blueberry are punctuated with sweet thyme. Tannins are very light and glossily textured. The acidity is soft acidity but juicy. Finishes with an explosion of fruit. A member of International Wineries for Climate Action founded in 2019 by Familia Torres and Jackson Family Wines, Yalumba has been exploring and implementing meaningful sustainable practices throughout all aspects of production for over 25 years. (MM)
The first two words that came to my mind when I tried this wine blind were ‘complete’ and ‘precise’. While this Riesling is rich, it has tension and vitality with razor-sharp acidity that makes the mouth water. The aromatic profile is just as harmonious with pretty notes of honey, lemon and lime zest mingling with discreet wet stone and petrol. A natural with cheese fondue, raclette or Quiche Lorraine. I enjoyed it with homemade Peking duck, and it was delightful. (MB)
Besides top-notch Brunello, San Polo’s offers a stellar straightforward and fresh Sangiovese in pureza with the Rubio bottling. Aromas of plum and sunbaked earth lead to a sumptuous mouthful of lush, pulpy red cherry fruit. Vibrant and bouncy, this is buoyed by plenty of acidity and framed by brisk grape tannins. The estate was purchased by Marilisa Allegrini in 2007. Since 2015, winemaking has been under the direction of Riccardo Fratton who has led the estate through organic certification. He is also experimenting with natural homeopathic remedies to protect vines from drought and fend off disease. The winery building is the first in Tuscany to receive CasaClima certification for its energy efficiency and sustainable use of resources. (MM)
Tasca d’Almerita Fondazione Whitaker Mozia Grillo Sicilia DOC, 2020, Sicily Italy ($32)
Mozio is an island off the west coast of Sicily - close to Marsala where Grillo has long been used in Italy’s now unfashionable fortified wine. In recent years, Grillo is making a name for itself as a dry table white. Medium-bodied with tons of personality, Tasca d’Almerita’s is savoury, saline and tactile with gorgeous jasmine and citrus blossom fragrances. It can stand up to richer snacks like bone marrow and cleanse the mouth of any fried tidbit such as chickpea fritters. I test drove both! Alberto Tasca is one of the founding members of SOStain. Beyond ‘green’ vineyard practices, Sicily’s sustainability certification also assesses categories such as carbon footprint and packaging to employee and community welfare. (MM)
Le Vieux Pin Cuvée Violette Syrah Okanagan Valley VQA, 2019, British Columbia Canada ($35)
to the great site and delicate winemaking style of Séverine Pinte. This vintage does not disappoint. Its lifted seductive aromas of violets, iodine, plum and black pepper combined with the bright acidity recall Crozes-Hermitage. Then the wild sage notes bring you back to the Okanagan Valley. Fine and elegant tannins. Delicious now but Cuvée Violette can age. I recently had the 2013 – the first vintage ever made - and it was exquisite. (MB)
Domaine Mathieu et Camille Lapierre Morgon AOC, 2020, Beaujolais France ($38)
When the now-deceased Marcel Lapierre was making the wines, I could not skip a vintage. Lapierre’s early inspiration was the acclaimed father of natural wines, Jules Chauvet. Chauvet’s quest was to make natural wines with pure aromas. He was a chemist and understood oenology. Natural wine did not equal faults. Quite to the contrary. It takes a lot of knowledge to achieve greatness by doing little - and Marcel Lapierre knew how. His son Mathieu and his daughter Camille followed the same path, and the 2020 is so pure. Silky with notes of cranberries, raspberries and red cherries lifted by a gentle herbal and floral touch. Irresistible now but will show even more depth in 8-10 years. (MB)
Feudo Montoni Nerello Mascalese Sicilia DOC ‘Rosé de Adele’, 2020, Sicily Italy ($40)
Owner Fabio Sireci calls Feudo Montoni “an island within an island” because it is located at elevation in the centre of the island of Sicily. Sireci’s characterization describes not just the winery’s remote location, but the isolation of its vineyards due to the massive fields of durum wheat that have surrounded Montoni for at least the past 600 years. The result, according to several wine experts, is a purity in the DNA of the estate’s vines, unaffected by outside influences, giving the wines of Montoni a unique sense of place. Feudo Montoni farms organically and in addition to grapes, they also grow heritage grains, wild oats, fenugreek, chickpeas, honeysuckle, fava beans, lentils, dill, wild fennel and olive trees. Organics (organic in Italian is biologico and bios means life) is a philosophy that Sireci believes extends beyond agriculture and to the people of the region, giving them the possibility to work and providing them with a sense of purpose and pride. The rosé is made from 100% Nerello Mascalese grapes and has lovely aromas of peach and spice, a fleshy texture, bright and lively with flavours of pear and melon finishing with a refreshing minerality. Will pair with everything from spicy cuisine to salads to seafood to roast lamb. And really delicious on its own. (DD)
Yves Leccia E Croce Patrimonio AOC, 2017 Corsica France ($40)
E Croce blends 90% Nielluciu (aka Sangiovese) with 10% Grenache grown on a thin layer of chalk over pure schist in the northern reaches of Corsica. Wild and funky at first, then sundried tomato, sunbaked herb and flowers come to the fore. No sign of oak here for indeed there is none – refinement is in stainless steel. Gritty grape tannins stick to the palate which reveals licorice and iron-tinged berries with tangy acidity. It seems made for grilled fatty sausages. This is Yves Leccia’s second vintage with organic certification. Beyond that, he works tirelessly to preserve Corsica’s patrimony of heirloom varieties (adhering staunchly to the local spelling). (MM)
Delinquente High Crimes Arinto & Albarino Riverland ‘Basshams Barmera Vineyard’, 2021, South Australia ($50/1500ml)
(80% Arinto, 20% Albarino) From hot and dry Riverland, this is a clever use of Iberian origin grapes. Both retain their acidity well and don’t require irrigation, thus preserving water supply in a region known for excess use of this precious resource. This wine is uber fresh, saline and edgy but with peachy, slightly tropical notes. The hip term to use here would be crushable, which is suited to its bag-in-box packaging and drink-now personality. It scores a point for light-weight packaging as it has come a long way from its Australian home. (BD)
Henners Brut, n/v, East Sussex England ($65)
From the heart of England’s sparkling wine production in East Sussex, Henner’s classic non-vintage cuvée blends Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. A full three years on the lees as well as a dash of reserve wine lends richness and depth to notes of red currant and salted caramel apple. There is plenty of zip, and the mousse is soft yet lively. Appetizing toasted accents linger on the finish. A founding member, and one of just 19, Henners is part of Wine GB’s Sustainability Programme which launched spring of 2021. The certification focuses on reducing water, carbon foot-print and non-renewable energy consumption while promoting environmental conservation and biodiversity. (MM)
Alto Piemonte is located in the northern part of Italy’s Piedmont region in the foothills of the Alps. In the 1700s & 1800s, wines from Alto Piemonte were actually much more famous than the wines of Barolo, but today, there are less than 1,000 hectares of vineyards left due to several factors including a devasting hail storm in 1905. Many producers simply abandoned their vineyards and there was a mass exodus from the wine industry. But in the last 20 years, there started to be a revitalization of Alto Piemonte led by people like, Daniele Dinoia of Villa Guelpa. The Sizzano is a blend of 70% Nebbiolo and 30% Vespolina & Uva Rara and is a rich, and complex wine alluring perfumed aromas and multi-layered flavours of cherry, citrus, a savoury minerality and an incredibly long finish. It will continue to age well over the next 10-15+ years. (DD) Bright and focussed with perfumed floral aromas, a massive amount of red fruit, spice and mineral, firm tannins that are fruit-coated and elegant allowing for the wine to be enjoyable now if given enough time in a decanter, but it will benefit from a decade or more in the bottle. (DD)
Typical of the power and presence of a Barolo from Serralunga d’Alba, this is still in its early years with tight, very firm tannins and the perfume-like magic beginning to weave together. Aromatically, it’s more earth than flowers – with smoky church incense and deep red fruits. Such reward will be given for waiting 5 more years on this beauty - though it has a longer life than that if you have the patience and desire. Rivetto is the first Barolo producer to gain Demeter’s biodynamic certification. (BD)
Donatella Cinelli Colombini Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Riserva, 2013, Tuscany Italy ($155)
Donatella Cinelli Colombini has a family history that is impressive to say the least. Donatella was a part of the Barbi wine dynasty which dates back centuries. In 1998, Donatella left her family’s estate to start her own projects. In a relatively short period of time, she established herself as a major winemaking and cultural force. The Riserva is a little restrained at first, but opens quite nicely with floral and berry aromas, spice and earth with a silky texture, bright acidity, red and dark berry fruit and mineral notes with a long, although somewhat closed finish. This is just a baby and will need time to age to fully integrate, but should be a stunner in 5-8 years and beyond. (GB)
QUENCH HOUSE WINES:
What the editors and writers of Quench are drinking at home and why.
Gérard Bertrand AN 806 Corbières AOC, 2018, Languedoc-Roussillon France ($18)
A blend of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre. Opaque purple in colour with a bouquet of blackberries, vanilla and light cedar notes. Full-bodied with richly extracted blackberry flavour and an herbal note. A well-balanced wine and well worth the price. (TA)
Classic Gamay character of vibrant red berries and earthy notes with a light to medium bodied palate. Lively and fresh fruited cherry chocolate notes with good structure, nicely balanced acidity and tannins leading to spice through the close. (TP)
This frizzante is a light, pale red Lambrusco from the Fangareggi family who have resumed winemaking as of 2004 but have a history of the craft dating back to the 19th century. It is primarily Lambrusco di Sobara (85%) which gives delicate floral aromas and a refined mouthfeel, along with bright, wild berry notes. At 11%, this is modest in abv, which is great because every time I’ve opened a bottle, I’ve always wanted a second pour. (BD)
Fabien Jouves Haute Côt(e) de Fruit Malbec Cahors AC, 2020, Cahors France ($25)
Often, Malbec from Cahors is big, dark and brooding, tannic, oaked and extracted. Well, this wine is not that. Made much more in the style of Malbec from the Loire Valley (where it is known as Côt), this is electric and minerally, with no oak to preserve the purity of lively fruit, spice and mouth-watering savouriness. Incredibly delicious and a tremendous value that you won’t get tired of drinking. (GB)
Yohan Lardy Les Michelons Moulin-AVent AOC, 2019, Beaujolais France ($28)
Cru Beaujolais has been a staple in my house for years and this wine is a great addition! Bright with charming notes of wild strawberries and raspberries, it is lifted by a pleasant herbal character owing to whole bunch fermentation. Delicate yet firm tannins. Just as suited for roasted chicken as it is for liver, coq au vin or grilled salmon. As they say in French: it is passe-partout (a wine that goes with everything). (MB)
One of Piedmont’s most sublime producers - with a grape they have helped bring back into the spotlight. A luminous ruby colour to the eye, with aromatics of black cherry, candied cherry, strawberry and plum. The bridge to the palate shares clementine and a tea-like character with subtle spice. This Pelaverga is generous in fresh and ripe red berry fruit on the palate. Gentle gripping tannins and just enough texture give the wine individual character above others in its class. This wine clearly sits in the light-to-medium body camp and will satisfy those who want to be transported, any day of the week, to the rolling hills of Piemonte. (CS)
4 Monos GR-10 Sierra de Gredos Vinos de Madrid DOP, 2017, Madrid Spain ($33)
I cracked this bottle after a long-haul, international flight home. Immediately, the stress of traveling in the time of Covid melted away and I was filled with the joy of summer berries that wafted from the glass. Despite an innate fruitiness, it has a serious side as nuances of sweet herbs, lilac and pulverised granite wrap around crunchy cherries and raspberries. Tannins are light with a fine clayey texture. Garnacha-led with some Cariñena and a splash of Syrah, this is beautifully mid-weight. You don’t have to wait for warmer temperatures to enjoy a chillable, chuggable red. 4 Monos is now a staple in my home. (MM)
Barbera is one of the most planted grapes in Italy and it grows in almost every region. It is also one of the 20 most planted grape varieties in the world. While Barbera can often be quite easy drinking, that does not mean that the wines should lack character. Rizzi’s offering is deep and perfumed, elegant, well-balanced and persistent with lively, fresh cherry and plum flavours and a soft texture. The perfect Tuesday night pizza wine. (DD)
BEST OF THE REST:
Wines that are Recommended and Highly Recommended by our experienced panel of tasters listed by price from low to high:
HIGHLY RECOMMENDED
Hester Creek Old Vine Cabernet Franc Golden Mile Bench Okanagan Valley VQA, 2019, British Columbia Canada ($26)
Some original plantings in this vineyard date from 1968. This is aged for 18 months in mainly French barriques with some neutral American barrels. Aromas of intense red and black fruit lead to a full-bodied palate with pepper spice and cedar notes wrapped in juicy acidity and well-managed, structured tannins. Some mineral hints and spice on the finish. (TP)
Malivoire Analog Demo Series Twenty Mile Bench VQA, 2020, Ontario Canada ($27)
In my books, Ontario’s most exciting red grapes are Cabernet Franc and Gamay. Here they are co-fermented in a bright and vibrant 73%/23% blend. Pure red cherry and red currant aromas emerge with a swirl. Though light weight in style, it soars with purity and juiciness. Flavours of cranberry and raspberry fill out the red berry spectrum. Good length and mouth cleansing energy. (MM)
AC Christmann Spätburgunder Pfalz, 2017, Pfalz Germany ($28)
Expect a blast of delicious fruit energy in this biodynamic wine from the Pfalz. Expressive red florals and ripe sun-kissed black cherry lead to a savoury cherry tomato earthiness. The palate exudes warmth with tart candy red fruit to strawberry flavours. Best served fresh, to maintain a sleek and demur experience on the palate. Distinct in mineral tone with just the right amount of tension. Present without intruding. (CS) A co-fermented wine of Gewürztraminer and Riesling. Striking aromas of gentle yet vibrant rich florals jump from the glass. The wine invites you to taste it. The palate is a mouthful of rose water, honeyed apple and light creamy viscous weight. Rich and round, not cloying…with all the finesse of Gewurtz yet tamed by the elegance of Riesling. You must try it at least once. This does everything for everybody, no strings attached. (CS)
Fort Berens Riesling Reserve Lillooet VQA ‘Dry Creek Vineyard’, 2019, British Columbia Canada ($30)
Winter damage reduced 2019 yields to about one ton per acre, which contributes to this wine’s intensity. On the nose, developing petrol hints, with honey, citrus and stone fruit. The palate sports peach and tropical flavours with a touch of minerality. The textured mouthfeel is amplified by juicy acidity and a lengthy, gently off-dry ending. Excellent aging potential as it continues to evolve. (TP)
Tenuta Olim Bauda Freisa d’Asti DOC Secco, 2017, Piedmont Italy ($30)
A direct descendant of Nebbiolo, the lesser-known Freisa grape is worth trying for its own merits. Olim Bauda puts out a convincing example. It boasts truffly scents, along with rose, violet and rooibos tea. Full but not rich, the palate is hemmed in by grainy, long-chained tannins. Pleasant bitter chinotto accents offset wild raspberry. This all melds seamlessly together and should drink well over the next four to five years. (MM)
Also known as Sudtirol, Alto Adige is heavily Austrian and German influenced. That shouldn’t be a surprise as Alto Adige was a part of Austria for hundreds of years. If fact, you could be forgiven, when traveling in the region, for forgetting that you are still in Italy. The influence is evident in the language, culture, food and the wines. This offering from Elena Walch has bright yellow stone fruit aromas and flavours, fresh apple and mineral depth, lively acidity, incredible balance and a fresh, inviting finish. (DD)
Ollier Taillefer Grande Reserve Faugères AOP, 2017, Languedoc-Roussillon France ($33)
From unique schist soils, this is a blend of certified organically grown Carignan, Grenache and Syrah. Vibrant aromas of red and black berries with spicy undertones lead to a plush medium-bodied palate supported by well-managed tannins. A hint of appealing herbal notes lingers through the finish. Superbly balanced. To be enjoyed with roasted red meats and braised dishes, not to mention tourtière. (TP)
Polished and stylish, Ca di Pian is a concentrated, barrique-aged Barbera made from 45-year-old vines. The nose is frisky with an herbal minty edge, chocolate and intense blackberry and plum. The plush, wood-framed, spice-infused palate unfolds with supple velvety tannins while succulent acidity keeps it lively. Hard not to like. (MM)
Tinhorn Creek Oldfield Reserve Chardonnay Golden Mile Bench Okanagan Valley VQA, 2019, British Columbia Canada ($35)
Bright, straw colour with a toasty, spicy, apple nose and a light apple blossom note. Medium to full-bodied and dry with apple and pear flavours. Rich and full on the palate with well-integrated oak and a lovely mouthfeel. Beautifully balanced and lingering. (TA)
Meyer Family Vineyards B Field Blend Pinot Noir Okanagan Falls Okanagan Valley VQA ‘McLean Creek Road Vineyard’, 2020, British Columbia Canada ($35)
This new cuveé from Meyer is a winner! B is for Burgundy. It references the combination of Pinot Noir clones that are picked and fermented together. It’s aged in seasoned barrels so there is no new oak to get in the way of the fruit expression. Focused and perfumed, the nose reveals high tone floral and cranberry nuances. It is lean and precise on the palate with a subtle earthiness, sweet spice, silky tannins and crisp acidity. Fantastic weight, balance and poise here. (MM)
Save Our Souls Pinot Noir, 2018, Yarra Valley Australia ($35)
Vibrant and juicy with a richness that maintains freshness and crushability, loads of crushed berry fruit, earth and spice with supple tannins and a long, zippy finish. Ideal with duck carpaccio or chops off the barbecue. (GB)
Les Equilibristes Les 7 Vaillants Syrah Vin de France, 2018, LanguedocRoussillon France ($36)
The magnificent trio of grapes - Syrah, Cinsault and Grenache - makes for a most pleasant journey in a wine that is juicy, juicy and juicy in the spectrum of black and blue fruit with a lift of cherry and spice. The palate is generous and soft with enough structure to make this a great Friday night wine. Make sure you save a few sips for Saturday lunch! (CS)
Jean Stodden Spätburgunder, 2017, Ahr Germany ($39)
This wine is very much for the Pinot Noir lover, especially those who believe that Germany can’t produce red wines. Bright and earthy in aromatic tone, with tart fleshy red fruit of currant and cherry. One is reminded of the shift to the autumn in tasting the wine. The palate is clean, lean and with interesting, gentle fruit energy - easy going like your favourite scarf. There is a mineral and iron tang - indicative of this cool climate region. Very Pinot for the senses of sight, smell and taste. (CS)
Quinta dos Roques Touriga Nacional Dão DOC, 2018, Dão Portugal ($45)
The Dão wine region is central north Portugal. Vineyards on elevated plains are surrounded by mountain ranges on all sides. To savour the wine is to taste flavours unexpected in most Portuguese wines. The wine eases gently into fleshy dark berry fruit aromas, floral, with a pine or fresh forest lift. The berry fruit is framed with a layer of light cocoa and sweetish pour-over morning coffee. Texture and fine tannins balance the palate of more rich dark fruit. Finished with a mineral tickle. This is a mountain wine as rich and intense in freshness as it is in flavour. (CS)
I am very impressed by this vintage! The generous and ripe palate shows notes of wild strawberry jam, peony, vanilla and mocha. Fine-grained tannins with bright acid and a long finish. While the notes of oak are not fully integrated, I suspect they will with a few years in the bottle. A world class Pinot Noir that exudes the depth and complexity one can achieve in the region of Niagara. (MB)
One of the things I love about great Chardonnay from Niagara is the thirst-quenching acidity you can count on to balance the richness of the wine. This is exactly what you have here. The aromatics are just as enticing. Lemon zest and Meyer lemon are in symbiosis with notes of butter, hazelnut and vanilla. Long lingering finish. Perfectly suited with mushroom risotto or lobster if you want to splurge. (MB)
Yet another stunning wine from the talented hands of Thomas Bachelder. It walks the line; freshness, finesse and bright acidity in harmony with fruit development and subtle oak from its 20-month élevage in 228-litre barrels. Saline, citrus, orchard apples – this is classic cool climate Chardonnay. Excellent concentration makes me want to cellar this beauty for 5 to 7 years. (BD)
Painted Rock Merlot Skaha Bench Okanagan Valley VQA, 2018, British Columbia Canada ($45)
Up front aromas of vibrant red berries, with mineral and camphor hints lead to a complex, generously fruited but structured palate of damson, spice and mocha. This is buoyed by fresh acidity and wrapped in seamless, well-integrated tannins through the lingering, gently spicy finish. Leans more towards Bordeaux than British Columbia. Excellent potential to reward for several years to come. (TP)
Marisa Cuomo Furore Bianco Costa d’Amalfi DOC, 2020, Campania Italy ($45)
If you have ever been lucky enough to travel to the Amalfi Coast, this will bring you back to its steep rocky cliffs, salty sea air, fruit stands laden with giant lemons and the fragrant flower lined streets. Or you can simply buy a bottle and taste it all in the glass. Made from 60% Falanghina and 40% Biancolella grown on coastal terraces between 200 to 550m, Marisa Cuomo’s Furore so gorgeously captures the intoxicating nuances of Campania’s coastline. It fills the mouth but leaves it clean and revived as it lingers with hints of blanched almond. (MM)
Luis Pato Quinta do Moinho Vinho Regional Beiras, 2008, Portugal ($54)
The wine delivers ‘the experience’ that reminds you of aged fine wine. Then you ask, but where is this from? The adventure begins… Made by the G.O.A.T. that is Luis Pato - the Michael Jordon in the wine making game when it comes to the Baga grape. His Quinta do Moinho vineyards which rise into the interior of Atlantic Portugal offer up wines that are world class. The 2008 vintage offers lifted and forward aromatics of evolved dark fruit that give way to dry tomato leaf and savoury herbed tones of birch bark. Fine grained tannins offset the palate that is still energetic and complex. (CS)
Domaine Philippe Gavignet Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits AC ‘Clos des Dames Huguette’, 2019, Burgundy France ($55)
Lovely, refined and elegant with an abundance of expressive aromas, silky red fruit, depth and concentration with a cool, silky texture and incredibly long finish that makes you want to keep drinking. Immensely enjoyable on its own, but also a versatile partner with just about anything on your dinner table. (GB)
Privato Pinot Noir Grande Reserve British Columbia VQA, 2016, British Columbia Canada ($56)
Sourced from North Okanagan’s Lake Country, this sees partial whole cluster fermentation and 18 months aging in French oak. Up front forest floor and earthy notes with red berries. On the palate - strawberry and savoury elements, superbly balanced fruit and spice, silky tannins and great length. A lovely lighter style. (TP)
Pedro Parra Monk Cinsault, 2018, Itata Chile ($58)
Monk is a reference to the great jazz pianist Thelonious Monk. The wine presents as stylish and iconic as the man himself, and on tasting, shows subtle yet vibrant, candy caramel apple with roasted red cherry. There is a note of flint, mineral wet stone moving
to iron. Clarity and precision are what makes this cuvée distinct. The palate is dry, medium-bodied with coarse tannins that are composed around great fruit energy. Monk carries its own complex rhythm and flow, very charming once you catch it. (CS)
Etude Pinot Noir ‘Grace Benoist Ranch’, 2018, Carneros California USA ($68)
Loads of character with an abundance of red fruit, fresh herbs, spice and mineral wrapped up with silky smooth tannins, impeccable balance, layers and layers of flavour and a long, lively finish. Perfect with roast duck, grilled salmon and tandoori chicken. (GB)
Schloss Gobelsburg Grüner Veltliner Kamptal DAC ‘Ried Lamm’, 2017, Niederöstereich Austria ($75)
An estate and monastery with deep roots in Kamptal. A benchmark expression of grand cru Grüner Veltliner - evident in the expressive perfume of orchard fruit and stone fruit laced with florals of freesia and white pepper typical of Grüner. This single vineyard reaches great heights of finesse and elegance with a very fine creamy, yet tart citrus, white and yellow fruit flavour experience on the palate. Very few wines of the world can match the versatility and energy of very good Grüner Veltliner. This wine does not disappoint! Truly a fine wine of the ‘fine wine’ category. (CS)
Podere Il Carnasciale Carnasciale Toscana IGT, 2018 Tuscany Italy ($98)
Caberlot is the grape, thought to be a natural crossing of Cabernet Franc and Merlot. A cult wine that you might have yet to experience?!? What happens in the bottle is a true ‘Super Tuscan’ that reminds you of its French grape heritage, though designed in Italy. Nothing is over done here in ‘Il Carnasciale’, the second wine to the top cuvée ‘Il Caberlot’. Prêt-à-porter aromas of black and blue currant fruit with herbs and peppered spice make for a stylish wine. Vineyards at altitude in the Valdarno valley reveal cool-minted, soft and plush dark berry flavours with cedar and wood spice accenting the true flavours of the vintage. (CS)
RECOMMENDED
Divino Silvaner Trocken, 2019, Franken Germany ($17)
Bright straw in colour with a minerally, peach pit nose and an engaging floral top note. Medium-bodied and dry, this beautifully balanced wine has a white peach flavour, lively acidity and an almond note on the finish. This comes in a Bocksbeutel (bottle said to resemble the shape of a goat’s scrotum), difficult to cellar but worth finding room for it. (TA)
Santa Ema Carmenere Gran Reserva Valle de Cachapoal DO, 2018, Central Valley Chile ($19)
Deep purple-ruby in colour with a lightly cedary, spicy black cherry nose along with vanilla and dark chocolate notes. Medium to full-bodied and dry with lively acidity, plum and blackcurrant flavours and a note of orange peel on the end taste. Fine mouthfeel and ripe tannins. (TA)
Harper’s Trail Pinot Gris Thompson Valley VQA ‘Thadd Springs Vineyard’, 2020 British Columbia Canada ($20)
An exciting burst of pure orchard fruit leads to excellent varietal expression, with fresh apple and pear notes on the palate, nicely balanced fruit, bright acidity and a lingering, dry finish. Characterful and focused, this is a welcome contrast to often homogenous BC Pinot Gris. (TP)
Joan d’Anguera Darmos Garnatxa Montsant DO, 2018, Cataluña Spain ($32)
This Spanish gem is whole cluster Garnatxa that is foot trodden, giving way to floral and bright sweet cherry aroma, Twizzlers and sun-dried olive. The palate is raw with juicy cherry fruit that is at once tart and lifted in tone, then hits with a volume reflective of the sun and heat of Mediterranean Spain. An elegant wine that shows clarity. This wine is a reflection of the current Spanish wine renaissance. (CS)
Tightrope Cabernet Franc Naramata Bench Okanagan Valley ‘Thomas Vineyard’, 2018, British Columbia Canada ($35)
Ripe and fleshy with bright acid. Notes of pencil shaving, raspberries and plum are reminiscent of the aromatic profile found in Cabernet Franc from the Loire Valley. I love that the producer has resisted the temptation of lavish oak. The tannins are slightly hard and rustic, but they soften when served with steak. I enjoyed it with a piece of wagyu beef prepared by Chef Mark Filatow, owner of Waterfront Wines Restaurant in Kelowna. It was delectable. (MB)
Monte Creek Pinot Noir Reserve Okanagan Valley VQA, 2016, British Columbia Canada ($35)
Sourced from The Rise Vineyard, situated on a south facing slope overlooking the north end of Lake Okanagan, near Vernon. It is known for producing good Pinot. Wild fermented and aged 10 months in French oak and stainless steel. Up front vibrant wild red berry and vanilla notes. The generous but focused strawberry and cherry palate is underpinned by silky tannins and shows spice and cedar hints through the lingering finish. (TP)
Gérard Fiou Terroir Silex Sancerre AOC, 2020, Loire Valley France ($35)
When I spied this on a wine list, I had an instant craving for Sancerre, especially as I was just about to tuck into a fish feast. I wasn’t disappointed. Gérard Fiou’s vineyards are located in the east part of Sancerre –across the river from Pouilly Fumé. Here the soil is characterized by a high percentage of silex (aka flint). Crafted from 63-year-old vines, it delivers intense flinty, wet stone minerality and energy balanced by pithy grapefruit and exuberant gooseberry. A zingy mouthful! (MM)
Chateau de Santenay Bourgogne CôteD’Or AC ‘Pressonnier’, 2019, Burgundy France ($38)
This has pretty aromas of red currants, light cherry, strawberry, and mineral with nice ripeness of the fruit on the palate, elegant, but grippy tannin, and a light herbal character. hint of ripe stem. Nice as an aperitif wine, but also with poached salmon salad. (DD)
Envinate Lousas Viñas de Aldea Ribeira Sacra DO, 2019, Galicia Spain ($42)
Mencía exploded on the wine scene several years ago – full-flavoured, full-bodied. Today the friends behind Envinate aim for a lighter hand with this old vine Mencía. The wine exudes cherry, layers of orange peel and pith with the right amount of heady floral aroma. The palate is gentle and sweet with ripe pomegranate, red current and Cara Cara orange. There is very little not to like in this wine. New school Spain! (CS)
Tenuta di Bibbiano Chianti Classico DOCG Riserva, 2018, Tuscany Italy ($43)
Consistent quality Sangiovese from a warm southern corner of Chianti Classico. Expect classic cherry, fresh plum fruit, dried rose petal and red floral aromas. Think of leather touched by tobacco and light notes of vanilla, moving into an earthy mocha energy that keeps this wine grounded and elevated at the same time. The palate is elegant, with tannins as fine as cocoa powder, and the same berry flavours on the palate. Chianti is no longer a wine of the past. This is a renaissance wine with noble and humble origins. (CS)
BEFORE…
Sparkling wines, fino sherries, other wines that would traditionally be served before dinner
Val d’Oca Brut Millesimato Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG, 2020, Veneto Italy ($20)
Pale straw in colour with a volcanic mousse. Lightly floral nose of wet stones and crab apple. Medium-bodied and dry with white peach and apple flavours. Well-balanced with a creamy mouthfeel. One of the best Proseccos I have tasted. (TA)
Gray Monk Odyssey Traditional Brut Okanagan Valley VQA, 2018, British Columbia Canada ($26)
Pale straw in colour with an active mousse of tiny bubbles. A bouquet of apple and pear with crusty bread notes. Light to medium-bodied and crisply dry with lemony acidity, Granny Smith apple flavour and a hint of almond on the finish. (TA)
A blend of 55% Pinot Noir with 45% Chardonnay gains added complexity from fermentation in a combination of neutral French barrels and stainless steel. Lively bubbles with a good mousse, forward notes of brioche, citrus and stone fruit before a well textured, generous palate through a creamy, lengthy end. (TP)
Tantalus Blanc de Blancs Okanagan Valley VQA, 2018, British Columbia Canada ($32)
(100% Chardonnay) Tantalus’ claim to fame is its racy old vines Riesling. While this is usually what I stock up on when I visit, the last time I went, I added a few bottles of the 2018 Blanc de Blancs to my stash. This is the finest sparkling I have had from Tantalus. Tangy with a delicate mousse and a gentle touch of brioche rounding the austere edge. Nice harmony between the lemon zest, jasmine and subtle peach notes. A great substitute for Champagne, and much gentler on the wallet. (MB)
Benjamin Bridge Méthode Classique Brut, 2015, Nova Scotia Canada ($50)
(78% Chardonnay, 22% Pinot Noir) This wine supports the argument that Benjamin Bridge makes world-class sparkling. Bottled after four years on lees, this leans to the reductive and smoky side, though the citrus fruit and honeyed, floral notes are still very much present. Beautiful, fine bubbles and very precise mouthfeel. It is in a great spot but should also round out a bit after another 3 to 5 years of aging. (BD)
Valdespino Don Gonzalo Oloroso VOS, n/v, Jerez Spain ($80)
A benchmark Oloroso sherry, and tremendous value for a 25 (average)-year-old wine. The main solera for this wine dates back to the mid-19th century, and the grapes come from the renowned Carrascal vineyard. Walnut, marzipan, spiced orange, rich oak undertones. Full and rounded on the palate with a lengthy, complex finish, it hints at a ghost of sweetness. A great sipper enjoyed any time, but my favourite is as an apéritif on a rainy, cool day. (BD)
…AND AFTER
Dessert wines and digestifs that would traditionally be served after dinner
Inniskillin Riesling Icewine Niagara Peninsula VQA, 2019, Ontario Canada ($80/375ml)
Bright, shining golden colour. Magnificent, honeyed mango and grapefruit nose. Medium-bodied, luscious, intense and unctuously sweet with orange, honey, peach and apricot flavours. Beautifully balanced with racy acidity that stops it from being cloying. This could be the best Inniskillin Icewine I’ve tasted. (TA) Although tequila and mezcal get the lion’s share of attention, there are other traditional spirits made in Mexico. That includes Sotol, a spirit made from the plant of the same name, a shrub that grows wild in the deserts of northern Mexico. As more sotol makes its way to Canada, keep an eye out for Dos Magos, a great introduction to the category thanks to its smoky aroma, light body, and delicately minty herbal finish. (CSO)
Sotol Ono, Mexico
The vast majority of Sotol brands on the market are made by about a dozen “Sotoleros”—one of the most famous being Maestro Sotolero Gerardo Ruelas, who is responsible for about 13 expressions, including Sotol Ono. Its saline and vegetal nose hints at an esoteric, possibly earthy, tasting experience but it confounds expectations and is, instead, a pretty light, bouncy and super easy-drinking spirit. (CSO)
Flor del Desierto, Mexico
Also made by Maestro Sotolero Gerardo Ruelas, Flor del Desierto shows off the flavour profile of another species of the “desert spoon” (another name for sotol) from a different region. Flor del Desierto has a bigger mouthfeel than Sotol Ono, and tastes briny with a touch of fruit candy and a lovely pepper finish. The complexity keeps you coming back for more. (CSO)
Cantarelle: Gin de Provence, France
Almost every French gin we’ve tried adheres to a style that we’d characterize as somehow very “French.” Light on its feet, aromatic, airy and bright, Cantarelle is no exception. Although the juniper is present and accounted for, it takes a backseat to candied pink grapefruit and coriander, two botanicals that get along nicely. Although you could drink it with tonic, its subtle and restrained flavour would be lost. Instead, enjoy it chilled—martini or rocks, your call. (CSO)
Bottega Bacur Gin, Veneto Italy
Since renowned gin producers all over the world source their juniper from Italy, nobody should be surprised that more Italian producers are getting into the spirit, including Bottega SPA, a winery known for its bubbles. Plenty of piney juniper on the nose and tongue, mixed with a pronounced hit of lemon oil and peel, as well as a little herb to heighten the complexity of this rich and full-bodied gin. (CSO)
Isle of Harris Gin, Scotland
Although adding seaweed to gin might seem like attention-seeking behaviour, the handful of dulse-and kelp-infused gins we’ve tried are all lovely spirits and unique tasting, thanks to the umami quality that these ocean botanicals add to the gin. Isle of Harris gin is no exception. Made with sustainably-sourced sugar kelp from the lochs on Isle of Harris in Scotland’s outer Hebrides, this premium gin has a touch of salinity, but just enough
Mermaid Gin, England
If you tasted this blind, you might guess that Mermaid Gin contains botanicals harvested from the ocean, but the marine note is almost certainly owing to the distillers’ use of “rock samphire” (a.k.a. sea fennel), a wild plant that grows in craggy cliffs and rocks in coastal regions. The gin’s unique algae bloom taste is balanced out with elderflower, licorice, citrus and a hop variety that imparts intensely earthy notes—a profile divided between the land and the sea, just like the mythical creature after which it’s named. Excellent with a light, low-sugar tonic and a spritz of grapefruit or lemon. From The Isle of Wight Distillery. (CSO)
Kuzuki Gin, British Columbia
Although award-winning Kuzuki Gin isn’t technically a Japanese gin (since it’s distilled in British Columbia at Sheringham Distillery) it’s certainly a terrific homage to a new and burgeoning category of spicy, floral and clean gins from Japan that we’ve seen making their way to Canada over the past several years. Kuzuki is a sensationally bright and fresh tasting gin, packed with yuzu, bold spice, and a distinct cherry blossom dimension. Easily one of the most exciting Canadian gins we’ve ever tried. (CSO)
BEER
Spearhead Brewing Co. Oatmeal Cream Ale, Kingston ON, Canada (5.4% ABV; 473mL can)
Kingston’s own Spearhead Brewing has regularly been pushing the envelope of interesting flavors with their Globetrotter series of beers. Beers like the Candy Cane Lager, brewed with peppermint, and the Swiss Chocolate Raspberry Porter have all been hits among the brewery’s fans. This latest addition, however, has the brewery opting for a simple done well approach, amping up the humble cream ale to something that feels both elevated and approachable. Right off the bat the beer has a lovely smooth and creamy mouthfeel brought forth by the oats and a flavour profile that’s very similar to an oatmeal cookie or a hearty bowl of apple cinnamon oatmeal. (RL)
Sierra Nevada Brewing Co. Hazy Little Thing, Fletcher NC, USA (6.7% ABV; 355mL can)
The quality and care Sierra Nevada puts into their beers is unquestionable by now. Their flagship Pale Ale, for instance, is still considered the gold standard of the style and a thought experiment for how to incorporate subtle notes to a beer. For years it’s gone unchallenged, but the brewery’s entry into the haze wars, Hazy Little Thing IPA, has been getting ever closer to becoming Sierra Nevada’s best selling beer. Hazy Little Thing is incredibly smooth thanks to the addition of wheat and oats. Notes of pineapple, orange rind, and grapefruit are dominant on the palate with a lingering note of lemon drop and pine towards the finish. (RL)
Godspeed is never one to do things by half measures. Owner and brewmaster Luc “Bim” Lafontaine has committed himself to creating amazing and accurate-to-style Czech beers, even going so far as to work directly with the Czech consulate. In this case the Polotmavý Ležák 11° goes above and beyond. It’s a beer that is triple decocted, lagered for 6 weeks, naturally carbonated, and uses Saaz hops and Czech fl oor malted barley. The result is a well-balanced amber with notes of caramel, granola, and toasted bread followed up by a distinct bitterness in the fi nish. Just a very well done, amber-rich beer that is a testament to Lafontaine’s talents as a brewer. (RL)
Rebellion Brewing Co. BEER!, Regina SK, Canada (4.8% ABV; 473mL can)
I’ve long been a fan of Regina’s Rebellion Brewing Co., because they have a fun, adventurous spirit brought forth by their mullet-rocking president Mark Heise. BEER! is intended to be just that…a “beer that tastes like beer.” Based on the German Kölsch style, it aims to be right down the middle and it achieves that. Sweet notes of honey and bready malts are evened out by grassy hop fl avors along with light hints of lemon. (RL)
Back Home Beer Persian Lager, Brooklyn NY, USA (4.9% ABV; 355mL can)
Born to Iranian immigrants who relocated to America during the revolution, the Brooklyn-based brewery’s founder Zahra would hear countless stories about her grandfather, who would make beer to share with the local community in Shiraz. From those stories, Back Home Beer was born with a clear mission to empower women, support immigrants, and take care of local communities, all while making delicious and unique beer. The Persian Lager is a classic lager that’s both crisp with notes of grassiness from the saaz hops with a twist of being brewed with blue salt from the city of Semnan, Iran. This is a tribute to Zahra’s grandfather, who liked a pinch of salt in his beer. (RL)
Oskar Blues Brewery Double Dale’s Imperial IPA, Lyons CO, USA (9% ABV; 355mL can)
Oskar Blues Brewery is synonymous with excellent quality beers and their famous Dale’s Pale Ale has been a massive hit since the brewery fi rst launched it when they opened in 1997. Now the brewery has taken the infamous beer to another level with the release of Double Dale’s Imperial IPA. Developed by Oskar Blues Lyons’ Head Brewer Juice Drapeau (wow, what a name!) the beer retains some of its usual citrus and caramel characteristics but goes full tropical with a healthy addition of El Dorado and jabs of pine from the Talus hops. (RL) Having opened their doors only last summer, Equity Brewing is Oklahoma’s fi rst all-women owned brewery. Under the saying “lift ing you up one beer at a time,” mother-daughter team Suzette and Hannah Grillot are committed to doing their part to make the brewery a force for positive change, unapologetically incorporating their ethos into the names of their beers and never backing down from talking about the issues that matter. The Solidarity Saison is one of their most-brewed beers, with notes of lemon, warm malt fl avors, and spice in a peppery fi nish with a light body that fi nishes smooth. (RL)
Backcountry Brewing Widowmaker IPA, Squamish BC, Canada (6.7% ABV; 473mL can)
Since opening their space in the beautiful mountain town of Squamish back in 2017, Backcountry Brewing has been rocking it in the B.C. scene with their excellent beers, quality food, and frankly awesome tasting room with a 1970s ski cabin vibe. The Widowmaker is not as intimidating as it sounds, with its light malt profi le backing up the grapefruit and orange hop profi le making for a solid east coast IPA. (RL)
Genesee Brewing Co. Cream Ale, Rochester NY, USA (5.1% ABV; 355mL can)
If you want a brewery that brewers themselves turn to when they clock off from work, look no further than Genesee Brewing in Rochester, one of the largest and oldest operating breweries in the United States. With a history that dates back to 1878, It’s safe to say that the brewery has reached iconic levels and their cream ale has become a constant in upstate New York fridges since its introduction in 1960. Smooth and clean in a medium body with hints of bready sweetness and sharp fi nish, this is a prime example of a beer that is simple and made well. (RL)
Shacklands Brewing Co. Tripel, Toronto ON, Canada (7.9% ABV; 473mL can)
Now celebrating their fi ft h year in business, Shacklands is a fun brewery with a primary focus on Belgian styles. Located in the Junction area of Toronto, it’s honestly a fun place to be in, with a taproom full of eclectic items behind the bar tended by owner Dave Watts and constant rotation of excellent beer from head brewer Kalev Nisbet. The multiple award-winning can conditioned Tripel is a strong, traditional off ering with notes of banana, clove, and nutmeg. (RL)
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