TRADING IN THE PAPER DOLLS FOR THE PAPER DRESS

BY ALEXANDER HANKIN

THE 1960S was an exciting time for fashion. Geometric prints, vibrant colors, and style influenced by Beatnik and Mod cultures... the era saw a burst of creativity! As the United States put the war behind it, a new generation entered the spotlight. During this time, a lot of experimentation with new, affordable materials in the world of fashion took place. In addition to traditional textiles, new fabrics like Gore-Tex and polyester were popping up. In this wave of creation, the paper dress was also introduced. The garment is the focal point of “Generation Paper: A Fashion Phenom of the 1960s,” opening on March 18th at the Museum of Arts and Design (MAD). Originating from Phoenix Art Museum and primarily drawn from works in the museum’s comprehensive fashion-design collection, “Generation Paper” explores how the iconic silhouettes and styles of 1960s fashion became daring demonstrations of the durability and design potential of the era’s innovative paperlike materials. “The fashion-design collection at Phoenix Art Museum is home to a rare—and an enviable—selection of paper garments from the 1960s. These garments, including many gifted by longtime museum supporter Kelly Ellman, are in incredible condition and, in some cases, were donated in sealed packaging, never-before opened by the original owner. As a result, audiences get to experience them in pristine form,” said Helen Jean, Phoenix Art Museum’s Jacquie Dorrance Curator of Fashion Design and curator of the exhibition.

“We’re excited to present ‘Generation Paper’ at MAD! The exhibition features more than 80 rare fashion garments and accessories crafted from innovative paper-like materials,” said Michele Cohen, Chair of MAD’s Board of Trustees. “The bold, graphic designs rendered in the iconic silhouettes and styles of 1960s fashion embody the optimism of the era.” Originally conceived as a promotional gimmick by the Scott Paper Company, the idea was to use “Dura Wave,” a new paper-based fabric. Little did they know the concept would instantly catch fire. The main drivers behind the paper dress craze were ease and affordability. “Before there was fast fashion, there was paper fashion, which ironically was meant to be a demonstration of paper’s potential to behave like woven fabric,” said Elissa Auther, MAD’s Deputy Director of Curatorial Affairs and William and Mildred Lasdon Chief Curator. “Women who ordered the patterns and confidently wore paper dresses—as many did!— beautifully ushered in a new wave of cutting-edge material innovation.” In addition to new materials, this paper dress movement presented the concept of partnerships, marking some of the earliest instances of brands collaborating on clothing designs.

Examples of this include garments that mimicked kitchen countertops from appliance manufacturer Viking; a knitted paper mini dress by Mars of Ashville; and Campbell’s Soup’s “Souper Dress,” featuring a soup-can motif that became so popular at the time thanks to of Andy Warhol. These are just some of the highlights that include not just dresses, but also bikinis, caftans, and other fashion garments that were able to showcase the range of the manufacturer’s versatility. “This delightful, historic exhibition gives new meaning to the concept of ‘leaving a paper trail,’” said Barbara Tober, Chairman Emerita of MAD. “Don’t miss it!” u

Unknown, Dress, 1960s. Opposite page: Hallmark, “Floresence”

Romper, circa 1967; “Candy Wrappers,” Caftan, 1960s (inset).