Ly Son Travel Magazine by Quốc Vĩnh

Trần Quốc Vĩnh D2110K1 ISSUU 0.1

LY S O N Travel Magazine

VOL. 1 MAY 2022 $ 7.99

LY SON

Cont 04

Introduction . Location and Background . Guide and Map . Orientation and Topography . Beaches and Islands

Culture . Temples, Pagodas and Architecture . Festival . Special location

LY SON

tents 12

Explore

Conclusion

. Experience . Villages & Communes . Getting Around Ly Son Island

LY SON

INTRODUCTION LOCATION AND BACKGROUND

volcanic island surrounded by a ring of reefs, Ly Son is a striking, stark, and geologically fascinating destination, off the coast of central Vietnam. Three large, extinct volcanic craters dominate Ly Son. Inland, the island is barren, dry, and sandy, its flat patchwork of fields rising violently to dramatic cliffs that plunge to the brilliant-blue sea. The water quality around Ly Son Island is among the best in Vietnam. But this isn’t your typical tropical island: Ly Son doesn’t have long, sandy beaches, brushed by coconut palms. What it does have are coral reefs, crystal-clear seas, twisted rock formations, black cliffs, mesmerizing crater top views, and one of the most dramatically situated beaches in Vietnam. Easily reached by regular, 30-minute, fast boat ferries from Sa Ky Port, in Quang Ngai Province (and soon from Danang, too), Ly Son Island has fired the imagination of young, Vietnamese backpackers for several years. But foreign travellers have yet to arrive in numbers. Famous for its seafood and garlic, which grows in the island’s rich, volcanic soil, the time is right to visit Ly Son Island.

GUIDE AND MAP

elow is my full guide to Ly Son Island. I’ve divided this guide into several categories, and then sub-sections within each category. The best time of year to visit Ly Son is from March to September, when the weather is generally dry and bright, rainfall is light, and seas are mostly calm. It’s also best to visit on a weekday, avoiding weekends and public holidays, during which Ly Son gets very crowded with domestic tourists. Plan to spend at least two nights on Ly Son, if not more. In many ways, Ly Son is like a bigger, more developed, version of Phu Quy Island. It’s also much easier to get to: up to a dozen sailings each day connect Ly Son with the mainland; no permit is visit the island.

ormerly known as Cù Lao Ré, Ly Son Island is a district within Quang Ngai, a central province which generally escapes the notice of most travellers (with the exception of My Lai, the site of the 1968 massacre). The district comprises two main islands, Ly Son (also known as Đảo Lớn – Big Island) and Đảo Bé (Small Island), both of which are permanently inhabited, with a population of around 20,000. Ly Son Island is divided into two ‘communes’. These are: An Vĩnh (the western half of the island) and An Hải (the eastern half ). Đảo Bé (Small Island) is also a separate ‘commune’, called An Bình. On Ly Son Island, both An Vĩnh and An Hải communes are further divided into two villages: Thôn Tây (western village) and Thôn Đông (eastern village). Ly Son Island is essentially a spread of volcanic craters rising from the ocean. Three large craters (and two smaller ones) were

LY SON

formed some 25-30 million years ago. The extinct craters rise from the villages and patchwork of fields that make up the rest of the island’s topography. (For a dramatic introduction to Ly Son’s topography, take at look at the island on Google Maps satellite view, where the craters are clearly visible and, rather disturbingly, bring to mind the bird’s-eye photographs of wartime Vietnam, pockmarked by heavy bombing.

BEACHES AND ISLANDS

y Son isn’t replete with quintessential tropical island beaches, but the beaches it does have are very striking indeed. In fact, Ly Son and nearby Dao Be Island are home to one or two of the most dramatically situated beaches in Vietnam. The water quality is generally fantastic: very clear and turquoise-blue. However, swimming isn’t that easy because of reefs, surf and rocks. It’s fine for experienced sea swimmers, but for those who aren’t too comfortable in the ocean, it might be better to look at than to bathe in. But snorkeling is great and Ly Son is probably one of the best untapped surf and kitesurf locations in the country (although you’ll need to bring your own equipment, as there’s none for hire on the island yet):

Hang Cau Beach & Cliffs

Quite possibly one of the most dramatically situated and photogenic beaches in Vietnam, Hang Cau is a seam

LY SON

of white-coral sand swept between the giant, swirling contours of an arch-like cliff-cave. In the northeast of the island, the surf at Hang Cau breaks about 100m offshore, where a line of reefs protects the beach from large rollers. The sea is crystal clear and the air always has a slight mist caused by the spray of the surf drifting up from the ocean and into the cave. It’s incredibly atmospheric and very striking. If possible, try to visit on a weekday, preferably before 4pm, so that you have the chance of getting it all to yourself.

Chua Hang Beach

Neatly set in a cove in front of Chua Hang Cave and Shrine, this beach, in the north of the island, is very photogenic, but not that great for swimming. White blindingly white – sand from eroded coral and large slabs of volcanic rock form the beach, creating a patchwork of textures and colours. Under the perfectly clear water, reefs whip up the surf. It’s good for snorkeling and paddling, but not really deep or calm enough for swimming.

Below the tortured cliffs where the colossal statue of the Goddess of Mercy stands, a long, coral-bleached beach stretches for a kilometre or so. The sea is very clear and a beautiful colour. The break is constant thanks to a long reef lying offshore. It’s a barren, exposed and striking coastline that’s fine for swimming and snorkeling. However, litter spoils the sand (but not the water). In the past, trash has been a big problem on the island. But, although it is still an issue, it has been directly addressed in the last couple of years. Plastic bottles, cans, containers and other reusable waste that’s washed up on the beaches or discarded by tourists and locals is now being collected for recycling. One form of this is using plastic bottles as a building material to makes household walls. The bottles are filled with

LY SON

sand and used in place of bricks to build walls in some recent dwellings in the hamlet. This is very encouraging, indeed.

An enchanting little island just to the north of Ly Son, Dao Be is a real treat. A 10-minute fast boat whisks visitors to Dao Be each morning (see Getting Around for details). The island is small, flat, very beautiful and charming. Little buggies meet the boats to take visitors around the island, but because Dao Be is so small, it’s much better to go on foot. Utilizing the narrow paved lanes, it’s possible to hike the entire circumference of the island (and the interior, too) within an hour or two. Boats leave after three hours which gives you enough time to explore the island and stop for a swim and a drink. However, if you have the time, I highly recommend staying overnight on Dao Be Island at one of a handful of rustic, cheap and cheerful ‘homestays’ (see Accommodation for details). Inland, the island is portioned into rectangular plots, partitioned and terraced by volcanic rocks walls. Garlic and peanuts are the main crops, but tropical fruit trees, such as coconut palms, banana plants, and screwpines grow in clusters here and there. There’s only one settlement on the island, a tiny hamlet of squat, angular concrete homes bisected by sandy alleyways on the south coast, where the boat pier is. Many of the houses have colourful murals painted on their external walls, which makes strolling around the hamlet an interesting experience. For sandy beaches, bathing and palm fringed water, stick to the south side of the island. The little beach stretching east of the pier to the volcanic cliff is stunning, especially when viewed from the cliffs themselves. The sand is bright white, the water bright blue, and the palms bright green. The east coast is mostly black volcanic rock and can be quite rough. At the northern tip the rocks coalesce to for a series of jagged cliffs and coves. One of these coves hides a white sand beach dotted with colourful fishing coracles. The surf is perfect blue as it washes up on the white beach under the black cliffs. The west coast has equal parts rocky and sandy beach, but there’s a fair amount of flotsam and jetsam on this side of the island. In the past, trash has been a big problem on the island. But, although it is still an issue, it has been directly addressed in the last couple of years.

LY SON

CULTURE TEMPLES, PAGODAS AND ARCHITECTURE

y Son has dozens of temples, pagodas, shrines and other places of worship. Below I’ve listed only a few. Much of the architecture on the island is now quite new (many old buildings having been knocked down within the last few years), but in the back streets there are still some intriguing older structures: . Quan Am Statue, Phat Mau Temple & Cemetery: Near the northwestern tip of Ly Son Island, a colossal statue stands at the foot of impressive, stratified cliffs. Depicting Quan Am – the Buddhist Goddess of Mercy – the statue is pure white and stands around 50m tall. The goddess presides over a tremendous ocean vista. At her feet are the graves of islanders and plots of sandy land reserved for Ly Son’s special crop: garlic. Climb the stairs behind the statue to reach Gieng Tien Mountain. .Ly Son Cemetery: prawling beneath the crater of Nui Hon Soi Mountain, this cemetery is the largest on the island. The focal point, accessed by many wide steps, doubles as a good viewing

platform, with vistas over thousands of tombs and much of the island’s garlic fields. .Chua Hang Cave Temple: A spectacular location for a very atmospheric shrine, Chua Hang is at one of the most northerly points on the island. It’s a popular attraction, so be prepared for light crowds, a few trinket stalls and the like. Steps lead around a rocky cape to a gorgeous cove of white sand, book-ended by stratified cliffs. The colours are glorious, and in the middle of the beach a serene sculpture of Goddess Quan Am pokes up from frangipani trees, looking out to sea. .Old Temples & Church: On a shady, quiet stretch of coast between Thon Tay and Thon Dong villages, this collection of temples, shrines and old communal village hall is very atmospheric. There’s a church just behind, too. .Whale Temple: Noticeably small for a whale temple, this colourful, squat temple houses the bones of many sea mammals, including whales and dolphins. But, unlike whale temples elsewhere in the country.

LY SON

FESTIVAL

oat racing festival is our traditional festival on the annual Hung Vuong death anniversary. Luckily, I had the opportunity to admire this bustling festival on a trip with my family. The festival started a beautiful sunny day. The air was extremely warm. When the referee’s whistle sounded, the red flag flew, signaling the teams to play, the competition started, all the teams tried to steer their boats as quickly as possible. The boys were strong and strong, all of them were upright, cross-crossing the boat that fluttered on the surface of the water, cheering for everyone’s cheers. Teams sticking to each other without leaving, no one gives up, everyone wants to win for their team. I feel very excited when I look at the exciting teams, trying every minute to pass and win. The surrounding atmosphere was very excited, the cheers were everywhere. The race ended with the red team’s effort winning. Although the other teams lost but also consoled themselves and congratulated the victory of the team. What a beautiful fighting spirit, not jealousy. Because maybe they know they have done their best. Boat racing is an extremely fun festival. I hope that this festival will be kept until tomorrow.

LY SON

.Seafood: It’s no surprise that seafood and garlic are the main features in Ly Son’s local cuisine, which is no bad thing. But some street food and a surprising amount of fruit are also available. When visiting Ly Son, it’s a good idea to know the Vietnamese for seafood and garlic. Both are island specialities and both are available in many forms at reasonable prices across the island garlic honey, garlic liquor (yep!), giant lobsters, sea urchins, and rock crabs. Thon Tay, in the west of the island near the port, has several very good seafood restaurants geared towards Vietnamese visitors from the mainland. The food is fresh, reasonably priced, and delicious. The day’s catch is displayed out front of the restaurants, including lobster, crab, shellfish, and myriad types of fish and crustaceans. At night, more informal seafood stalls line up along the boat pier. There are other clusters of seafood restaurants around the island, especially along the embankment road on the south coast.

SPECIAL LOCATION

f you love garlic and onions, Ly Son Island should be high on your bucket list. It’s also known as the “Kingdom of Garlic” with the garlic fields everywhere. You’ll smell the garlic as you stroll past them. The garlic production is unique as it’s grown on the volcanic rocks and covered with white sand from the beaches. Ly Son garlic has a milder flavor and smaller bulbs. There are even onebulb garlic grown here! The island is also an awesome place to relax. It’s untouched from tourism (for now) and has the small town charm. It’s rare to see foreigners on the island so it’s the perfect place to unplug. English is rarely spoken here, so you can practice your Vietnamese or come with friends who know the language. We can foresee a tourism boom here as there is construction along the coastline and a future market area/shopping

area (Cho dem Ly Son).

LY SON

Banh xeo Cay Bang

Ca bong Song Tra

Don Ba Xue

My quang Ga

Thon Tay village, on the west coast, is the centre for street food vendors on the island, particularly on the back-streets (one block from the seafront) and along the boat pier where there’s a night food market. .Banh Xeo Cay Bang: is a popular place with locals in the evening, where dozens of little savoury pancakes sizzle together over a wood-fired stove. And Quan Phuong Chau is a nice, simple, rice eatery for a quick, cheap lunch. .Mi Quang Ga: a much loved central dish with thick yellow noodles. Breakfast options include the ubiquitous

filled baguettes and lots of bún (rice noodles) soup stalls. .Don Ba Xue: Wait until the rice paper is hydrated, slightly soft, diners should leisurely enjoy the aromatic and sweet taste of the broth, rice paper, the spicy taste of chili, pepper... making people feel nostalgic for their hometown .Ca Bong Song Tra: The goby fish is no bigger than a human finger, mixed in the spicy pepper taste, the rich aroma of fish sauce, etc., making guests from far away nostalgic every time they enjoy the goby in the Tra River.

LY SON

E X P L O R E

here’s lots to keep you busy on Ly Son Island for at least a couple of days. In order to avoid the crowds, follow these two general rules: 1) don’t travel to Ly Son on weekends or public holidays, when the island gets busy; do your sightseeing between 10am and 3pm, when most of the beaches, mountains, temples and otherights are empty. This is because Vietnamese travellers (who make up the vast majority of visitors to Ly Son) tend to prefer the mornings and late afternoons, when temperatures are cooler. A lot of domestic tourism on Ly Son Island is straightforward selfie-taking: groups go on a circuit of the island, ticking off each sight with a bunch of posed selfies, then moving on to the next one. The drawbacks of following the two rules above are, of course, the intense heat in the middle of the day, and the light (which isn’t as good for photography): .Riding, Hiking & Motorbiking: All of the places mentioned in this guide can be reached by motorbike or on foot: both are pleasant ways of getting around the island. Ly Son is relatively small, but obviously walking takes a lot longer than motorbiking. However, if you’re a hiker, it’s totally feasible to walk all around Ly Son Island, just remember to take the phone number of a taxi company with you (see Getting Around for details). Additionally, walking around Dao Be Island, just a short

boat ride north of Ly Son, is a joy (see Dao Be Island for details). Cycling would be good too, but sadly I didn’t see any bikes for rent.

LY SON

.Mountains, Craters, Volcanoes & Viewing Points: Ly Son Island consists of at least five extinct volcanic craters of varying sizes. Signs of volcanic activity are everywhere – from the tortured weave of the cliffs to the black rocks partitioning the fields. The extinct volcanoes make for a dramatic and striking landscape, offering beautiful, short hikes, and fantastic views. In addition to the craters, there are several other excellent viewing points on the island, both natural and made-made. Nui Thoi Loi Crater, Nui Gieng Tien Crater, Nui Hon Tai, Hon Vung & Hon Soi Craters, To Vo Rock Arch, Ly Son Lighthouse The highest of the volcanic peaks on the island, Nui Thoi Loi is a giant, gaping crater in the east of Ly Son. From near the top, the views over the island are superb. A paved road snakes perilously close to the cliffs along the north edge up to the Ly Son Flagpole. Continuing further up is off-limits, but from here you can hike along the cliff-edge for a while in both directions. The views are wonderful: south back to Thon Dong village and the garlic fields, and west over the ridge to the Nui Gieng Tien Crater. However, the best views are actually from the road up to the flagpole, particularly at the lay-by and the lookout post. Stunning at any time of day, the views are best from 4pm, when the fields of garlic glow in the low light and the sea appears smooth and soft as velvet. But, if you thought these were breathtaking vistas, wait until you take the slip-

road around the southern edge of the crater and up to Ho Thoi Loi. The paved lane is very steep and ends at a concrete hut. A pathway leads along the ledge beneath a freestanding boulder which is perhaps the best photo spot on the entire island. Up here, you’re standing on the edge of a giant volcanic crater: just imagine it 25 million years ago, spouting fire and ash, oozing lava, bellowing with each eruption, literally changing the topography in this violent moment; until the sea water cooled the lava and ash, and the eruption solidified into pretty much what you see today. Casuarina trees grow around the rim of the crater which has filled with rain to become a freshwater lake, long-used as a reservoir for the inhabitants of Ly Son Island. Originally constructed during French colonial times, this lighthouse was rebuilt in the 21st century. A small headland of volcanic rock sticking out into the shallow blue sea. Other Craters: In the south of the island, near Thon Tay, is Nui Hon Vung, a small crater with a war martyrs’ cemetery on its slopes. Nui Hon Soi is a large crater near the center of the island. On its northeastern slopes is Ly Son’s neat, new cemetery (from where there are good views), but the rest of the crater is off limits and tightly controlled. Nui Hon Tai is another small crater in the west of the island. It’s covered in terraced crops fields. Attractive and serene but not spectacular, some dirt lanes lead around it.

LY SON

VILLAGES & COMMUNES:

y Son Island is divided into two ‘communes’, which are probably better to think of as ‘districts’. These are: An Vĩnh (the western half of the island) and An Hải (the eastern half ). A little confusingly, both An Vĩnh and An Hải communes are further divided into two identically named villages: Thôn Tây (western village) and Thôn Đông (eastern village). Thus, there’s a Thôn Tây and a Thôn Đông village in both An Vinh and An Hai communes: .An Vinh Commune: The main port, where the fast boats from the mainland dock, is in An Vinh’s Thon Tay village. This is the commercial and tourist centre of Ly Son Island. The small streets are tightly packed with hotels, cafes, seafood restaurants, street food vendors, and shops. As such, Thon Tay is the most bustling of Ly Son’s villages. Although it’s nice enough on the seafront or on the back streets, Thon Tay lacks charm, and there’s quite a lot of touting for hotels and sightseeing. However, the village makes up for it with conveniences and the typical life and energy of Vietnamese urban areas. Separated from Thon Tay by a pleasant stretch of coast road, An Vinh’s Thon Dong village is generally quieter and less touristy than Thon Tay. This is where you’ll find Ly Son’s main market (chợ Lý Sơn). However, things look set to change with the construction of a large new port, in front of the Muong Thanh Hotel, that’s due to open sometime this year. .An Hai Commune: An Hai’s Thon Tay village is essentially just a continuation of An Vinh’s Thon Dong village, sprawling along the coast. However, An Hai’s Thon Dong village, in the southeastern corner of Ly Son Island, has a distinctive character all its own. Spreading along a crescent bay and clustering beneath the crater of Thoi Loi Mountain, Thong Dong is quiet and attractive, although it lacks variety when it comes to dining and accommodation options. The fishing port at Thong

Dong is currently being shored up with sea walls protecting it from the high seas. At the time of writing, the marina and harbourfront were a bit of a mess because of the building work, but it won’t be long before it’s finished, after which it will be a nice place to be. The fishing fleet – surprisingly small by Vietnamese standards moors in the marina, along with a couple of rusting tugs. Take the time to get lost in the back-streets of Thong Dong, where diminutive homes with little courtyards with garlic and shallots drying in the sun, green hedges and bougainvillea are very charming indeed.

GETTING AROUND LY SON ISLAND:

y Son is a relatively small island and easily navigated. Two wheels is ideal, but there are also taxis on the island. And, because the distances are fairly short, it’s entirely possible to get around on foot. Small speed boats whisk passengers between Ly Son and Dao Be Island to the north; just a 10-minute trip, and well worth it. See below for details: .By Road: Ly Son is a pretty small island and can be easily traversed by rented motorbike, bicycle, taxi or electric bus. The dimensions of the island are roughly 6km from east to west, and 2km from north to south, so the distances are very small. .By Motorbikes: can be rented from most accommodations on

LY SON

the island for 100,000-150,000vnd per day. Riding around Ly Son is a great way to get around independently and see the island. Traffic is generally light and roads are OK quality. By Boat: The only outlying island is Dao Be (also known as An Binh or Cu Lao Bo Bai), which lies just north of Ly Son. Little passenger speed boats leave the Ly Son pier every morning between 7am and 10am for Dao Be Island. The journey only takes 10-15 minutes, but if seas are rough boats won’t sail. Ticket prices are good value at 80,000vnd return per person. Tickets are easily arranged through your accommodation the night before, or morning of, departure (or you can just show up at the boat pier and try your luck, but this probably isn’t a good idea during high season or on a weekend).

LY SON I never receive payment for anything I write: my content is always free and independent. I’ve written this guide because I want to: I like this island and I want my readers to know about it. For more details, see my Disclosure & Disclaimer statements. Thank you all readers.