Rachael Atkins
1) Encore, Encore 2) Be there, Be Square 3) Unfinished Business
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This creative direction focuses on modern theatrics. The way in which the theatre and the performing arts have merged together evolving breath-taking productions. Catwalks further extend the experimental nature of cutting edge technology and unforgettably outrageous statement pieces. Designers such as Rick Owens and Alexandra McQueen are forever forcing this trend, their shockingly excessive approach to portraying world movements and cultural influences is what makes these theatrical creations so innovative, bringing meaning and importance to fashion.
Gladiator Amour
Purple Royalty
Emperor’s Robe
Dusty Sands
Wheat Field
Silver Spear
Classical Khaki
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The desire for clean lines in design aesthetic has led to the embrace of the cube silhouette in the design of everything from architecture to furniture and recently translating further into visual merchandising within stores. The trend originates from the cubist art movement created by Pablo Picasso and Georges Braque in Paris between 1907 and 1914. The simple geometric shape of the cube provides a natural demonstration of the minimalist trend that is becoming predominant and appealing in consumers minds with its clean lines and clinical materials, ultimately allowing shoppers to experience moments of solitude within the busy store environment. Recent seasons has seen window displays using geometric constructions such as rectangular frames to box in garments and a scattering of cubes to display footwear. A controlled colour pallet of luxurious subtle shades including Drizzling Mist grey, Scandinavian Mint and Rose Quartz with a flawless matt finish provides a high end mood. Combine this with the electric dashes of Caribbean Azure and Golden Promise and a stark yet striking block colour pallet is generated.
Drizzling Mist
Blushing Peach
Caribbean Azure
Scandinavian Mint
Wrought Iron
Rose Quartz
Golden Promise
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A creative landscape of ‘unfinished business’ leaves room for the imagination to build around this industrial VM trend. The raw, undeveloped and lacking details are what make this theme appear ‘old school’ creating a sentimental value that in fact contradicts with the pure essence of the theme. With base Neutral colours including brass, metallic, and chrome effects paired with splashes of bright elements of oranges, and royal blues for the décor work in harmony to reflect this rustic emerging trend, which is essentially very modern.
Blackout
Oiled Machines
Infused Gold
Navy Warship
Rusty Cogs
Liquid Mercury
Aluminum Alloy
1) Flawless 2) Uptown Funk 3) Gothic Fantasy
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With health and fitness apps being the fastest growing of 2014 sees an influential trend dominating the app world, consumers are observing this change and are effortlessly adapting to the ‘living clean’ lifestyle. The flawless and simplistic quality of this trend has taken charge and is been focused into all aspects of living, specifically inspiring the fashion industry. Clean cuts, minimal colours including iced whites, and opaque beiges create the overall ‘cleanly’ vision that has been interpreted throughout, for this emerging creative direction.
Porcelain
Light breeze
Pebble Stone
Oriental Ivory
Canvas Beige
Coastal fog
Vanilla Ice
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Rich tones, folk prints, denim and flares, were all key elements in the creative direction for AW15. Gucci presented a romantic 1970’s aesthetic with bows, silk blouses and relaxed fit trousers whilst Topman showcased a 70’s rebel look with boiler suits, shearling coats and flashes of tartan. The 70’s direction this season is echoed by Yves Saint Laurent + Halston: fashioning the 70’s, an exhibition at the Museum at FIT in New York, celebrating the two designers that shaped the 1970’s era for fashion. The colour palette for this trend is based on rich tones contrasted with bright colours, the use of bold pattern and eccentric detail creating a playful yet contemporary aesthetic.
Symphony blue
Exotic kiwi
Fruit punch
Admiral navy
Sundance
Pretty in Pink
Heavenly peace
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Gothic fantasy is a creative direction trend that is both dramatic and opulent. Embellishment, baroque detail and heavy fabric in rich deep tones ignites a sense of a winter fairytale. This trend relates to the Alexander McQueen exhibition: Savage Beauty. Celebrating the designers often gothic eccentricism and luxury aesthetic. The colour palettes for this creative direction are rich earthy tones and dark opulent hues that create a sense of high end luxury, emphasised by the gold and silver embellishments.
Evening Shadow Silver
Magic Sands
Midnight lake
Full moon
Burnt rose
Plum Poison
Dark Opulence
1) Autumn Bloom 2) Geometrically Speaking 3) Construct, Deconstruct
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Portrayed through a dark and mysterious essence with a blend of luxury, comes the trend Autumn Bloom. Flocked fabrics with bright hues together create this everlasting look. Be it embroidered, smudged, or an unrealistic take on floral patterned graphics makes up for the ideal effect for bringing a bright part of summer to the dulls of winter.
Muted Violet
Tauped Beige
Raged Rose
Spiced Snapdragon
Taffeta Tulip
Mauved Poppy
Dried Orchid
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AW15 saw the return of distinctive retro prints across its runways where big, bold and contrasting geometric prints were spotted everywhere. Inspiration was taken from mysticism and ritual symbols that when combined to create unforgettable luminous patterns reflecting the occurring geometric trend.
Blackhole
Spaceship
Clouded vision
Jupiter Moon
Midnight Milkyway
Green Aurora
stardust
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Inspired by the arts and crafts, this trend focuses on styling ideas that use handcrafted techniques that are assembled in a quirky and youthful way. A mismatched of decorative applique, customized embroidery and daring typography, referencing many different style eras brings a refreshed retro glamour to AW15. The layering of contradictory materials and contrasting colour creates a bold personalised image statement for the wearer as consumers try to fight against mainstream fashion and seek individuality for an eccentric thrown together look that works effortlessly. In terms of colour, fresh and bright cerulean water blues and burnt mustard yellows create a conflicting colour pallet against the autumnal deep textures of purple haze and mulled cranberry fabricating a fearless yet fun trend.
Plum Haze
Midnight Wine
Mulled Cranberry
Burnt Mustard
Rosewood
Indigo Denim
Cerulean Waters
1) Greyscale 2) Montana Ranch 3) His or Hers
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The 50 shades of grey phenomenon has made its way on to the catwalk. Head-to-toe neuturals brought to life with use of rich textures. Black and grey ensembles broken up by leather detailing or a heavy knit jumper. The simplicity and minimalism of this trend creates a contemporary and very achievable look for the modern man. Shades of dark, rich charcoals paired with soft dove greys creating the aesthetic of the professional man, not dissimilar to the films protaganist.
Dark side
City Fumes
Silver Sterling
Charcoal
Wall Street
Smoke and Mirrors
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An effortless look so down to earth it combines both a primitive yet imposing effect on the menswear scene, forming the folk trend ‘Montanan Ranch’. Usually compared to a western vibe the artless motifs drive the nature embracing potential for colours and prints from different cultures. The multi-cultural aspect of this re-emerging trend will make it ready available and of higher consumer demand, due to its broad nature. Seen in Burberry’s A/W 15 show a bohemian folk inspired collection incorporating floral printed patchwork, fringed jackets and oversized ponchos with palettes including maroon reds, midnight blues, and orange hues collectively bring the ‘Montana ranch’ trend to life.
Morning Sunrise
Leather Saddle
Cactus Pines
Purple Mirage
Sunbaked Terracotta
Whiskey Barrel
Olive Garden
Eagels Eye
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In todays society, where attitudes towards androgony and homosexuality have dramatically shifted in the past few years, there has become much less preasure to conform to gender roles and ideals. The questioning of gender roles was prevelant on the catwalks with Gucci presenting lace details and pussy bow blouses for men, whilst Saint Laurent’s show featured men in heels and slimlane silhouettes. There was an array of floral prints, lace and bows on show aswell as the use of feminine cuts and detailing, showing that gender identity is no longer black and white.
Moonlit Lawn
Smoked Truffle
Fountain Pools
Crimson Passion
Lovers Blush
Whisper
Goblet of Wine
Valentine
Encore, Encore FIG 1 Natasya Lund, (2015), flower window display [ONLINE]. Available at:https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/559853797403725740/ [Accessed 23 February 15]. FIG 2 Natasya Lund, (2015), theatrical drawings [ONLINE]. Available at:https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/559853797403725721/ [Accessed 23 February 15]. FIG 3 Unknown, (2015), miscellany-monday [ONLINE]. Available at: http://the818.com/2012/11/miscellany-monday/#sthash.nLzsMMOI.dpbs [Accessed 23 February 15]. FIG 4 Unknown, (2015), mannequin-hang [ONLINE]. Available at:https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/559853797403720868/ [Accessed 23 February 15]. FIG 6 wheretoget, (2015), theatrical+clothing [ONLINE]. Available at: https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=theatrical+clothing&espv=2& biw=1440&bih=755&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=sCH-VPvxGOPV7Qaa54GIAw&ved=0CAcQ_AUoAg#tbm=isch&q=feathered+silver+grey+dress&i mgrc=q0LVYeFDuz4lXM%253A%3BKjVy-IQXUYyMVM%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fpicture-cdn.wheretoget.it%252Fvzy9g5-l-610x610-dress-featherssilver-grey-crystals-lace-dropped%252Bwaist-ostrich%252Bfeathers%252Bdress-prom%252Bdress.jpg%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwheretoget. it%252Flook%252F252391%3B391%3B610[Accessed 23 February 15]. Be there or be square Fig 1. Claire Dickinson , (2015), Figure Herman Miller + Industrial Facility [ONLINE]. Available at: http://www.wgsn.com/content/ reports/#/Visual+Merchandising//A_W_15_16/22572 [Accessed 22 February 15]. Fig 2. Kees Goudzwaard, (2015), Print And Pattern [ONLINE]. Available at: http://www.wgsn.com/content/reports/#/Visual+Merchandising// A_W_15_16/22572 [Accessed 23 February 15]. Fig 3. Anish Kapoor, (2013), Blind [ONLINE]. Available at: http://www.wgsn.com/content/reports/#/Visual+Merchandising//A_W_15_16/22572 [Accessed 24 February 15]. Fig 4. http://mugutu.com/index.php/blog/674-new-inspiration-faye-toogood [Accessed 24 February 15]. Fig 5. St.houzz, (2015), Box Chandeliers [ONLINE]. Available at: http://st.houzz.com/fimgs/22e1ddca0dd569f6_3658-w239-h239-b0-p0-chandeliers.jpg [Accessed 24 February 15]. Fig 6. Jacob Dahlgren, (2015), Work As Method [ONLINE]. Available at: http://www.wgsn.com/content/reports/#/Visual+Merchandising// A_W_15_16/22572 [Accessed 23 February 15].
Unfinished business Fig 1. White Brick Wall Photowall, (2013), Brick wall - White [ONLINE]. Available at: http://www.photowall.co.uk/photo-wallpaper/categories/bricks [Accessed 23 February 15]. Fig. 2 – Urban Outfitters photograph Natasya Lund, (2015), Urban Outfitters, Oxford Street [OWN IMAGE]. [Viewed 4 February 15] Fig. 3 – Abandoned Warehouse Max Lyons, (2004), Abandoned warehouse. Industrial revolution style [ONLINE]. Available at:http://www.tawbaware.com/forum2/viewtopic.php?t=2470 [Accessed 23 February 15]. Fig. 4 – Fred Perry window photograph Natasya Lund, (2015), Fred Perry, Covent Garden, [OWN IMAGE]. [Viewed 4 february 15] Fig. 5 – Show and Order trade show photograph Rachael Atkins, (2015), Show and Order Trade show, Berlin, [OWN IMAGE]. [Viewed 19 January] Fig. 6 – Shop window, Covent Garden Natasya Lund, (2015), Covent Garden window, London, [OWN IMAGE]. [Viewed 4 February 15] Flawless Fig 1. Silver dish Vibeke Friis, (2009), Stainless dish [ONLINE]. Available at: http://www.pxleyes.com/photography-contest/14877/minimalism.html [Accessed 23 February 15]. Fig. 2 – Man Unknown, (2014), COS knitwear [ONLINE]. Available at:https://www.pinterest.com/pin/254031235207530793/ [Accessed 24 February 15] Fig. 3 – Clothes rail Ivania Carpio, (2014), Love Aesthetics DIY rail [ONLINE]. Available at:http://www.remodelista.com/posts/diy-clothing-rack-fromlove-aesthetics [Accessed 24 February 15] Fig. 4 – Staircase Humza, (2011), Minimalistic Staircase [ONLINE]. Available at: http://crispme.com/20-minimalistic-wallpapers/ [Accessed 24 February 15]. Uptown funk: Fig. 1 – blue pattern Unknown, (2012), Spiritual pattern [ONLINE]. Available at: http://stellarbeam.com/category/spiritual/[Accessed 25 February 15] Fig. 2 – record player Claudia Raymat, (2014), Her 70’s show [ONLINE]. Available at: http://stylenoted.com/editorial-submission-her-70s-show/#more-16687 [Accessed 25 February 15] Fig. 3 - Blue and Green image The Black Crowes, (2013), Laminates [ONLINE]. Available at: http://www.blackcrowes.com/laminates/[Accessed 25 February 15]. Fig. 4 – Levi jeans Levi Strauss, (2013), Levi Jeans [ONLINE]. Available at: https://blogs.monash.edu/presto/tag/social-change/ [Accessed 25 February 15] Fig 5 – fashion photo Neil Krug, (2013), Lauren Marie Young [ONLINE]. Available at: http://weandthecolor.com/lauren-marie-young-photography-by-neilkrug/23285 [Accessed 25 February 15].
Fig 1 unknown, (2015), Dark Floral Print Design [ONLINE]. Available at: https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=dark+florals&espv=2&biw=1440&bih=755&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=ySL-VJb0N4mu7gbunYGIBQ&ved=0CAYQ_AUoAQ#tbm=isch&q=dark+purple+floral+fabric&imgdii=_&imgrc=Foe0yAchQgfmaM%253A%3B1YHmF2nfow74RM%3Bhttps%253A%252F%252Fs-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com%252F736x%252Fa2%252F89%252F0f%252Fa2890f62c7f0d8fd70a3077ac0cdae7c.jpg%3Bhttps%253A%252F%252Fwww.pinterest.com%252Fpin%252F2715530525070501 33%252F%3B736%3B735[Accessed 23 February 15]. Fig 2 unknown, (2015), dark+floral+bouquet [ONLINE]. Available at: https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=dark+floral+bouquet&espv=2&biw=1440&bih=755&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=jCP-VJzuJ-iR7AabkIDQCg&ved=0CAYQ_AUoAQ#tbm=isch&q=dark+flower+arrangement+instagram,&spell=1&imgdii=_&imgrc=hJXCxlHs08nFdM%253A%3BT3LJtXgujjVx3M%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fstatic.mwsrc.net%252Farticles%252Fwp-content%252Fuploads%252Fcache%252F2014%252F11%252Flarge-arrangement%252F3664616296.jpg%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.mywedding. com%252Farticles%252Fpurple-wedding-decor%252F%3B600%3B800 [Accessed 23 February 15]. Fig 3 unknown, (2015), floralsareforever [ONLINE]. Available at:https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/558868634984647334/ [Accessed 23 February 15]. Fig 4 unknown, (2015), amazing-landscape-photos%252F%3B656%3B900 [ONLINE]. Available at:https://www.google.co.uk/ search?q=red+roses+dark+landscape&espv=2&biw=1440&bih=755&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=KCX-VN_QN6L07AaZzoHIDw&ved=0CAYQ_AUoAQ#tbm=isch&q=red+dark+landscape+roses&imgdii=_&imgrc=wJgD5k9Ja-3m2M%253A%3BCgTRiBhfsu5wPM%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fbp4.uuuploads. com%252Flandscape-photography%252Flandscape-photography-32-large.jpg%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.boredpanda.com%252Famazing-landscape-photos%252F%3B656%3B900 [Accessed 23 February 15]. FIG 5 unknown, (2015), Cotton Quilt Fabric Bluebird Dishes [ONLINE]. Available at:https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=dark+floral+fabric&espv=2&biw=1440&bih=755&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=8SX-VI3TD4uV7Ab6h4DwDQ&ved=0CAYQ_AUoAQ#tbm=isch&q=dark+floral+print+fabric&imgdii=_&imgrc=4r5a90UK0cYthM%253A%3BV08jI1bz8RDSjM%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fcdn.supadupa. me%252Fshop%252F1079%252Fimages%252F1485832%252F1_yard_splendid_holiday_black_floral_quilt_shop_fabric_81472232_large.jpg%253F1398465585%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fauntiechrisquiltfabric.mysupadupa.com%252Fcollections%252Fblack-white-brown-neutrals%252Fproducts%252Fcotton-quilt-fabric-bluebird-dishes-brown-texture-wheat-border-print-1-2-yard%3B480%3B348 [Accessed 23 February 15]. Geometrically speaking: Fig 1 – Fashion photograph Neil Barrett, (2015), Neil Barrett Photography [ONLINE]. Available at:http://www.chinasspp.com/News/Detail/2014-12-16/187109.htm [Accessed 25 February 15] Fig 2 – Geometric shapes Etsy, (2012), Minimal Geometric Tattoos [ONLINE]. Available at:https://www.etsy.com/uk/listing/179504709/minimal-geometric-tattoos [Accessed 26 February 15] Fig 3 – Geometric art Dwell Studio, (2013), 19th Century Geometry Lesson Makes For Beautiful Wall Art [ONLINE]. Available at: http://gizmodo.com/a-19thcentury-geometry-lesson-makes-for-beautiful-wall-511301884 [Accessed 26 February 15]. Fig. 4 – Valentino catwalk Vogue, (2015), Valentino A/W 2015 [ONLINE]. Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/autumn-winter-2015/mens/valentino [Accessed 26 February 15]. Fig. 5 – Geometric night sky Unknown, (2014), Geometric Art [ONLINE]. Available at: https://www.pinterest.com/explore/geometric-art/[Accessed 26 February 15].
CONSTRUCT DECONSTRUCT Fig 1. Media-cache, (2015), Blue Embellishment AW15 [ONLINE]. Available at: https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/originals/41/ d2/8b/41d28b11de06cb7713ac8d486d57dd3d.jpg [Accessed 23 February 15]. Fig 2. Shane Hope, (2013), Protocol-onization of Common Clusters [ONLINE]. Available at: https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/originals/41/d2/8b/41d28b11de06cb7713ac8d486d57dd3d.jpg [Accessed 25 February 15]. Fig 3. Elena Stonaker, (2015), Wearables [ONLINE]. Available at: http://www.wgsn.com [Accessed 25 February 15]. Fig 4. King Sophie's World, (2015), Red mouth sequin patch [ONLINE]. Available at: http://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/142713/ page/1 [Accessed 25 February 15]. Fig 5. Embroidery, (2015), Jose Romussi [ONLINE]. Available at: http://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/126964/page/1 [Accessed 24 February 15]. Fig 6. Assemble Shannon, (2015), Assemble Shannon [ONLINE]. Available at: https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/originals/37/9b/84/379b84f37114726f684021f363dd3d0b.jpg [Accessed 26 February 15]. Fig 8. Eye Assembled Jumper, (2015), Eye Assembled Jumper [ONLINE]. Available at: https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/originals/61/51/76/615176d5c527b2d4f8f706a0ff413ed0.jpg [Accessed 25 February 15]. His or hers Figure 1: Alexander Mcqueen http://www.scout.com.au/Blog/Gender-Bender Figure 2: Gucci http://www.thehindu.com/todays-paper/tpFigure 3: Gucci http://www.disneyrollergirl.net/gucci-aw15-menswear/features/tp-metroplus/gender-bender/article6872014.ece Montana ranch Figure 1: Milan Street style http://wgsn.tumblr.com/post/108546826479/more-outdoor-americana-on-the-streets-of-milan Figure 2: Folk Boots http://www.soletopia.com/2014/11/visvim-brigadier-boot-mid-folk/ Figure 3: Folk Floor Tile http://killianandco.com/post/88873862550/brydiemack-brydie-mack-bts-for-billabong-fall Figure 4: Folk Style http://haveanicetee.com/2014/02/01/viking-style-fashion-shots/ Figure 5: Print http://www.takebishi.jp/paper/newpaper.html Figure 6: Denim http://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/126161/page/1 Greyscale Figure 1: Grey Knit http://www.dreamstime.com/stock-image-grey-knitting-background-texture-knit-woolen-christmas-festiv-festivewinter-time-image34617241 Figure 2 : New York Skyline http://imgkid.com/grey-scale.shtml Figure 3: Shades of Grey http://whoisbobbparris.com/2015/01/grey-matters-fabrice-desvaux-de-marigny-lcm-aw15/ Figure 4: Greyscale at Seek (own image) 2015 Figure 5: Suit Detail http://thesuitsofjamesbond.com/tag/plaid/page/2/ Gothic Fantasy Figure 1: Baroque http://www.anneofcarversville.com/style-photos/2012/10/5/jasmine-tookes-tetsuharu-kubota-lurve-fall-2012-in-astate-o.html Figure 2: Versailles http://csebastian.tumblr.com/page/2 Figure 3: Garth Knight spider http://angelinecollingsart.com/garth-knight-slide/ Figure 4: Shrines By Minka Sicklinger http://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/142551/page/1